A little tip for filtering oil for pretty much any purpose: They make 1 micron "filter bags" but they aren't the fastest method, but very effective. So what I do is allow the oil to settle for a day, this allows the particulate contaminates and water to go to the bottom, I then pump out the top 80% or so to leave all that on bottom. Then I put the filter bag in a section of PVC with a collar, fill with the oil, then I have a shop vac with the appropriate sized adapter to fit on the bottom of the PVC the filter is in. What happens is the shop vac actively pulls the oil through the 1 micron filter quite quickly- basically a large poor man's Buchner funnel, filter and flask all in one.
The cooks way to clean and reuse vegetable oil is to mix some cornflour with water and add it to the oil. Then heat the oil up until the cornflour thickens up, and catches all the floaters. So you can scoop it out in big lumps. Videos available on TH-cam.
The cost of used frying oils WVO varies around the UK from having to pay for it to being paid to take it away - the difference can be huge. I ran Diesel Engined Road vehicles on pure WVO for years, and it was sensible to have a heat exchanger to heat it up before it got into the injection pump as it as fairly viscose, and had a separate filter, as at some temperatures or with any sediment a filter could clog up - this obviously infers the need for a second fuel tank and a switchover system from one fuel to the other: We used Diesel to start and stop the engine to make it easy to start. It worked really well for years but effectiveness does vary from engine to engine - my Ford Transit was happy enough with it, as a Direct Injection Diesel (DI) engine, but my Citroen (Peugeot Diesel as standard) worked really well as it is an Indirect Injection Engine (IDI): Indeed with that Peugeot engone I got around 10-20% better economy PLUS some 20% more power, plus the engine was almost silent, even on a motorway - one heard the wind rushing over the car rather than hearing the engine. The only disadvantage to using WVO was the filtering effort, time and mess - and the need to heat it to filter, it except in summer. One thing to note was the additives we experimented with to get rid of/dissolve some floating 'other fats' on top of the bulk of the WVO - natural turpentine was best for this (not the chemical variant known as white spirit, though they look similar). We also had good results with paraffin, but I don't recall the exact results of the various experiments with it, (sorry to say) as we generally used some 97% pure WVO with a little paraffin and a very little Turpentine - we were limited in road use applications by regulations on the amount additives, by HMRC who were hot on it as the first people started to use it in numbers - I always felt this stymied research in typically 'British government' style. One is allowed to make a certain amount for private use these days - unless laws have changed from 15 years ago, this allows one to make one ton a year without registering with HMRC as a fuels producer as I was, so don't go off selling it openly ;) I really look forward to trying this new mix and at different temperatures to see if it is now practical for use ('filtering') as far north as we are now in Scandinavia. Please note that certain injector pumps such as Bosch were fine with WVO with its lubricity, but other injector pumps don't like it (Lucas and others) and failed totally after a thousand miles or less: It will be interesting to hear how this 'new' fuel fares in that respect. For the record, pure WVO (even in the less efficient Ford Transit ID engine) showed zero particulate emissions at an MOT testing station at any revs - they thought their machine was broken until I swapped back onto Diesel: Technically, it also reduces several other harmful emissions, but raises one slightly - I have no idea how that would compare with a WVO/Paraffin mixture at 50%. Interestingly, when used in a wick lamp, paraffin burns very cleanly, but *cannot* be replaced by Diesel which soots them up very quickly and heavily - inferring that perhaps we ought to not be banning/extra taxing Diesel cars but instead using them on paraffin, perhaps with a little modification of fuel and/or vehicle, such as this one - could it really be this simple?! Thanks for the video :)
I wish I could use it here in Belgium. BUT.... I have been through a police FUEL control here 5-6 times. I'm always ok. But if the fuel isn't "picco-bello" as it should be tax wise, you are in serious trouble... That's why my use for this would be my Chinese diesel parking heater in my garden work cabin. Where its doing a tremendous job ! If I can get oil from my local friterie (chip shop), I think this super simple way is worth the effort by far
Amazing piece.. Particularly about the zero emissions particulates on WVO. Why is there no commercial drive to harness this? Oh what a world we live in...
@@Patent247 there are - fuel from filling stations across Europe has around 5% plant oil in it at the pump. Which is why marinas have special pure mineral diesel (at a higher price) for boats - so that when not used they don't get 'bacterial growth' in their tanks. There's not enough Waste Veg Oil for everyone, and when big companies started food oil plantations the environmentalists went nuts over deforestation, monoculture and other effects on ecosystems and local economies. Waste food oil was fed to animals, a practice largely banned, but it does go for making cosmetics, especially lipstick. If you find a source of cheap/free WVO just be happy :)
My 206 estate i run for 3 years on kebab shop oil, strained through nylon tights, in cold times i would add a drop of diesel 50/50, run like a dream neat or mixed and the smell was amazing. 🙂 ,, and all my Diesel cars since have never failed emissions , 50/50 a day before the MOT JD.
Which other cars have you tried it on since the Peugeot? I believe that you have to be careful which make and model you put it in for different reasons. For example, I read that biodiesel can perish some types of hose in your engine - can’t recall which material it affects though.
@@wilyc0y0te Nylon parts in the fuel system veg oil tends to thicken/cling on plastics, might be because its porous but not sure.. escort tdi 1997, 205 saloon ,206 Quicksilver estate 2005/6, 2016 Golf 2.0 TDI, Renault master van 2009,, hope this helps,, newer models i would mix with a 50/50 diesel/paraffin/ turps, also Ive filtered dirty oil using a fine spray of luke warm water sprayed over the oil and drained off at the bottom,, once the oil has settled on top, this is after filtering through nylon tights, although water alone does a pretty good job of cleaning. To be honest if i had a diesel now any year i would do the same,, take that chance and replace the parts if they fail, I think the glycerin is the main problem, removing that makes it biodiesel,, currently i have a 1993 benz and hoping to run this on Hydrogen (dirty),, that's the plan..
@@PureEnigma I ran a '97 land rover and a '56 plate one in similar way but I bought the biodiesel from a local company at around 20p per litre less. I much prefer your approach with the nylon tights!
@@PureEnigma I met a guy about 15 years ago, who used to drive his 90s Mercedes estate around and get used veg oil while on his travels. He had a web site called carbon neutral car or something similar and used to document his travels around Europe. Really interesting!
For those of us who don't speak the King's English (i.e., Americans), what the Britsh call paraffin is kerosene. I have no idea what they call paraffin wax.
Excellent. We used to collect the waste oil and let it settle in the tank. Had a drip feed into a gas bottle burner to heat an old cottage that we grew plants in. Place stank of chips though! Wish I'd known this then. We had 1000's of liters dirty oil. I'd be bloody minted! Great video as always!
@@bigmouthstrikesagain4056 Here in Ireland anyway they're very strict on fuels. The "Red Diesel" is verboten. At the same time they never shut up about renewables. No bleedin' money in it for them more like.
@@bigmouthstrikesagain4056 Some places you might get in trouble with the environmental agencies because it's not officially approved as fuel. The patent might also make it problematic. However, I'm sure there would be lots of buyers for gas at half price.
@@bigmouthstrikesagain4056 There are places in the UK. I used to fuel my landrover on waste oil (20/80 with diesel usually), processed by a company close by. When I moved house, it was logistically challenging to get there for a fill up, and they weren't 24hr like the motorway garages, so I stopped going. I changed the diesel filter more regularly, but I expect it wasn't completely necessary, just a precaution.
I used to clean my used vegetable oil, with a homemade centrifuge. In winter I used to mix it with Kerosene (28 second heating oil), and put it straight in my diesel Audi A4 convertible. The centrifuge cleaning system was fully automated, and turned itself off, after filtering 25 L.
Just a little disclaimer for Robert here, some modern cars have a really hard time on veg oil biofuel. Things like fuel pump/injector seals and rubber hoses can eventually react with it and cause a BIG repair bill. So do your own homework before deciding if you want to risk putting any alternative fuels in a car. Heaters and stoves on the other hand, the worst case scenario is you'll bug*er up a 5 to 20 quid wick, so with paraffin now at 2+ quid a litre, the risk is still well worth the potential savings.
Yeah we have had this concern too , ye ol farm tractors and old land rovers etc would prob run perfectly ok . Anything after 1995 /2000 I would be quite hesitant, due to delicate electronically controlled injectors . I know a haulage firm that used bio and they had no end of problems with injectors etc and probably ended up costing more in repairs running on bio . We run bmw race cars and have even had issues with our braided fuel lines where they all swelled up and had to be replaced . This was all down to the new spec petrol mistakenly being put in the tank rather than the premium grade pump / forecourt fuel . Modern vehicles are highly sensitive and with the amount of woke legislation regarding immissions it won’t be long before the muppets are out in force doing roadside spot checks and confiscating your vehicle for poor emissions . As a form of heating oil etc Bob on . Like this guy tough should be more people like this 👍
@@sjoroverpirat Yeah. Apparently here in the UK we saw an increase in car engine bay fires when the government decided that we should all go from 5% to 10% bio ethanol fuels. 5% is still available, but only in the ridiculously expensive premium "Super unleaded" grades of fuel. The government seems hell bent to get older cars off the road, so the cynic in me is thinking that this move will not only makes the powers that be look like they're ticking "Green issue" boxes, but would also eventually condemn well over half a million older UK cars to the scrap heap prematurely. If an older car is only worth a few hundred pounds/dollars, it's hard to justify replacing most of the seals and hoses in it's fuel system due to them either not being compatible with this higher bio ethanol blend of fuel, or are already suffering with swollen/cracked/ruptured rubber seals and pipework because they've been using it already. I'm getting flashbacks to when lead was removed from the UK's road fuel (But for some reason, not from aviation fuel !?!?). The government said "Lead substitute treatments will be available in petrol stations for cars that can't use unleaded". Most cars could use the additive, but a lot still suffered serious premature engine wear issues. Then about 5 years after leaded fuel was gone, so were the additives from most forecourt shops. You can still get them, but it's usually something you need to order online, so it's not exactly convenient. A lot of old cars broke because of them banning leaded fuel........... And a lot of new cars were sold to replace them (with the associated new vehicle taxes going straight to the government who banned the fuel).
Here in Belgium, used cooking oil has outdoor collection bins. Many are overflowing with plastic bottles of used oils. I just have a square plastic bin in the back of my car and put them in. Today i picked up 20 liters. Mostly clear light colour. I will do what you do here and feed it to my "diesel parking heater". One liter lasts many hours for me in my work cabin.
I've been running my 1985 Mitsubishi Pajero on WVO since about 2018. My mix ranges from 100% to 50/50 with petrol, diesel or paraffin. Being in South Africa I tend to drop down to 50/50 in winter. This cleaning technique is great. Never saw it before and worth a look. My oil was so clean that it looked almost like new oil. My prefilter was rags layed into cheap mesh sieves. Then it was pumped through a hydraulic tank filter with a hand drum pump into my first tank. From there I used an electric pump to push it through a 1 micro filter. I had a few thousand liters to filter, so this was the easiest and cheapest process I could come up with. As for getting oil. That dried up many years ago. Luckily I filtered and squirrelled oil away. There was a time when I literally had oil thrown at me, but today they use mainly Palm oil and sell their used oil back to the supplier. Right now I'm researching black diesel.
I have a few years experience of driving with homemade biodiesel. I still find the best mixer was 1/3 kerosene and 2/3 clean dewatered WVO. There is no danger to you motor to run on WVO but just one thing to bear in mind is that the homemade biodiesel does not have the same lubrication qualities as the nor mal road diesel so it will in time damage your engine, but by them you will have saved the price of a new car! Best to use on a cheap old car/van
Try mixing in some two-stroke oil to act as a lubricant. You can Google the subject and find a lot of people do a 100:1 mix ratio (typically) to help keep the injectors and pump gears lubricated. I do the same and have no issues.
Nice one Robert!! Been watching the prices of veg oil for a number of years in supermarkets and its interesting to note that veg oil matches the rise and fall of diesel. I wonder why!!!
Bit obvious. You could give restaurants 50p a litre and still be only paying about 70-90p a litre of diesel depending on the mix. I bet most restaurants would bite your hands off if you offered them that much.
@@Vile_Entity_3545 No point offering more if you're offering a service taking it away and they're happy with that. Eventually if people pay more and more too readily, it will become ridiculously expensive anyway. Some Good advice may be to purchase a petrol vehicle next time unless buying new, who knows what people have been using as fuel for a few years before moving their vehicles unto someone else, not their problem anymore. By 2030, apparently there'll be no more new petrol and diesel cars being manufactured, most of the second hand diesel's will probably be problematic from improper fuel usage. That's our green future if it goes to plan Kelly.
The human health status interestingly declined since we all started consuming "vegetable oils".......... there is actually NO SUCH THING as a "vegetable oil".....they are seed oils.
When heating oil shot up earlier in the year I spotted supermarkets were sometimes selling vegetable oil for less per litre. I ran our oil boiler on a mixture for awhile. It was mostly kerosene but it meant I avoided having to fill the tank until prices came down a bit. Sadly the supermarket offers dissapesred as well.
That is so much easier than other methods to refine cooking oil into biodiesel. You could wash out even more impurities but it looks like it burns pretty clean. Now to put this with your DIY marine stove and some of your strange engines and we have come full circle. Love it! Thanks Rob!
This is a great way to re use my old vegetable oil. I use in my deep fryer. I normally filter it and store it for such things as this. I am ready for a hard freeze and power outage of 5 days to a week. As always very informative video. You never disappoint Rob.
Had a 1985 Ford F-250 with dual tanks. It was an indirect injection naturally aspirated engine IDK about the newer engines, but actually used just strained oil in rear tank as long as you start with diesel on front tank to get it up to temperature then switch tanks and 15 min or so before turning off, switch back to diesel tank to clear lines.
You probably had also a heatexchanger attached to the cooling circuitloop that heated the strained oil before it entered the engine. I heard that even with new diesel cars it is possible to run on waste oile then.
@@rickyvanass7192 I think the pump itself acted as a heat exchanger which is why it worked as long as I started on actual diesel for the warm up. I've heard newer engines do need an added heat exchanger but tbh IDK for sure 🤠
@@rickyvanass7192 yes but the levels you have to filter it to makes it harder new injectors are finicky and expensive to replace I wondered if part of the reason they switched was because oil companies wanted to make it harder!
Great work! Keep it up. We're a international NGO working to make the world waste free. We will give this method a try ASAP. We will need all the help we can get. Thanks in advance!
I ran my diesel car on 10 to 50%, summer to winter, new cooking oil for ages until the price went through the roof, no processing straight into the tank. Kept the cost down run a treat.
Wow......many thanks. Spent many pounds and many hours making my bio diesel . (Heating, filtering, mixing etc etc. )Can't wait to try this method. Run 2 Chinese heaters but always used Red marine diesel, so now I'll try this. Gladly subscibed and liked . Mikep.
I'm going to try this filtering method for soap making as I use a bit to make soap for my "supplier" (also a restaurant). I can attest to the handling headache. Since I burn it straight in a mass heater I only need to remove the "big" chunks. I run it through a filter made from an old sock, by gravity. Pretty simple and the leftover food bits in the oil burn just fine! When I was prepping for engine combustion (got rid of the vehicle some time ago) I picked up a centrifuge. For volume filtering, you can't beat it!
I have been making my own biodiesel from free WVO for the past 14 years and used it 100% in a Rover 75, Ford 2.0tdci Galaxy and now a Toyota Rav4, 2.2 Diesel. No problems, except a little smoke from exhaust on a cold frosty morning (I live in Nottingham). The biodiesel will start to gell up at minus 7 deg.C. which has only occurred once in the 14 years I have been using this. The Ford Galaxy I used it in for 3 years has been sold on and is still on the road using ordinary diesel, now with 170,000 miles on the clock . My MOT tester says my exhausts have been as clean as new cars.
Careful with biofuels and cold temps. if the engine and fuel delivery system isn't properly set up for biodiesel you can really gel up your engine in the winter.
Pretty cool! Easiest way I found to do my own Bio diesel after sick of messing about filtering etc I made a centrifuge from couple of old pans and a blender motor! Dead easy n very quick! Separates the contaminants & water content... Used on several vehicles over the last 8 yrs some neat and some diluted with some diesel. I meet tempted to experiment with the gelatin 💪👍
I love your videos, they all have a practical application. I made a K stove according to your design, and it makes an incredible amount of heat. it gobbles up fuel so fast, I had to restrict the air inlet so that it didn't melt the pipes.
Clever use of gelatin. Here in US, refined soy /canola oil is used...and we just use some sodium hydroxide and methanol. Works well in any engine with purely mechanical injection systems...ie..pre-1994 typically in cars. Only caveat is its not cold tolerant....👍
My dad did 200k miles fishing up and down the UK collecting and filtering oil from chip shops along the way to power his Citroen ZX with his own custom fuel line heaters to aid its use in winter additive free. Everywhere he went he was advertising for all the chips shops with the smell of his car exhaust 😂
I know of a similar mixture that they call “Black Diesel”. It’s basically filtered used motor oil mixed with gasoline/petrol. I think it can only be used in older “dumb diesels” tractors older trucks and such. Some newer “smart diesels” have an optical fuel sensor to shut down the engine if the fuel is not clear enough.
@@DKFX1 This is true. Although I suspect the computer would need to be tricked into thinking the sensor was still in use. I’m sure there are several ways to do this ,some low tech methods and some high.
I use industrial coffee filters, cheap by the hundred. warm the oil and let filter. Then just mix 50/50 with regular diesel. works for me, and in 20 years never had a problem.
For those in a hurry, put large batches inside of a spinning barrel [say if you get one of those old used washing machines which happens to have an amazingly small number of drain holes, so you can more easily plug them off, or perhaps line the tub with a thin sheet of polyester fiber and resin (I would never use fiberGLASS for this because it can break off and contaminate the product with abrasive glass if all goes badly, but polyester blanket is super soft and flexible, so it won't ever break off into your product] just to close off the gaps, remove the central agitator [unless you use it AS an agitator to do the heavy mixing for you], modify the switch to your new centrifuge so as to either alter or eliminate the little clock since it will remove your ability to put the unit on any cycle for more than a short period of time, and you probably want a longer period of time to spin or agitate, and then, disable the lid safety stop switch [its only going to be a problem for this anyhow] finally, set up a siphon tube to be lowered directly into the spinning vat so you can siphon off the skimmed oil at speed. The reason for such a device is that you can do 20 or 30 gallons at a time with a decent sized washer [vertical axis only here, won't work on a horizontal one, for the most obvious of reasons], and, with a few additional considerations, can even be used in a continuous flow process much like an old cream separator. That said, if you can just GET a cream separator, you have it made, because they are already continuous flow centrifuges. I have looked at cross sections of cream separators, and, while they are indeed a great idea, would be pretty tough to just make at home, because they require a lot of very closely set, matching, balanced parts, and might not be cheap or easy to build from recycled bits, unless you just happen to come across some place which throws out copious amounts of uniform metal stampings of the right sizes and shapes. But the general idea is that with centrifical forces, one could set up a constant flow-through process to pull off the waste and do so much more quickly than waiting for it to separate out by normal gravity, and one could avoid small batches which mean more work, or large static batches which mean much more of a wait time. This would allow one to mix really large batches, and while one is staging, one can be separating out. I have some 275 gallon HDPE tanks I got for various processes at my shop, and you can often get these used, either in food grade or petroleum grade [one I have came conveniently with 10 gallons of 5W-30 weight oil already in it, lucky me!] and with a decent opening at the top, and a valved opening at the bottom, it is easy to fill and drain them as long as you have them set to a workable height for the process, and you can stir them with a drop-in motor [they make such, of various types] or use a paint stirrer on the end of a hand drill. If you go about setting up a whole bunch of oil to separate out, then you can slowly feed from the base of each tank into the separator device, so that it is always feeding in and always draining out at a fairly steady rate. If one were really careful, one could build up the rim of a washer tub to have a spin-lip which would automatically allow spill-over of clean oil, and the dirty waste as 2 separate streams, but it would be a lot of work, and might require heavily modifying the washer body, and making some internal parts to place inside the barrel. I admit, that the washing machine idea is sort of inferior to a normal cream separator [because of how much work and materials would be involved], but its larger, so it might be better for one who is looking to make a lot of fuel fast, over a very long period of time.
Tend to agree with you there , centrifuge would work better . Ideally a flocking agent could be used but this is technically the gelatine / filter , with the later being more cost effective along with the centrifuge .as a form of heating oil Bob on but for modern diesels? Bit iffy . Love this guy though as long as it helps someone that’s all that matters 👍
@@newagetemplar6100 There is a way to use diatomaceous earth as an oil/fuel bleaching agent, and you can use certain kinds of clay for it as well. The idea is that you force the oil compound through a really fine mesh level material which, in essence 'scrapes away' [filters] out the big junk. Technically, you do not use a gelatin when using a molecular sieve though, as it will clog up if you do. Typically, because there is a certain level of refractory value to your molecular sieve, you can regenerate it by roasting it, but if you get a cheap enough supply, it may not be worth the effort. Also, where a high pressure pump would be a real bugger to mess with, centrifuging the oil through the sieve works as well. The difference being, that instead of skimming the oil off of the crud, you spin the oil through the sieve and the crud stays at the top of the filtrate and can be dry-skimmed if one so desires. One quick and easy way to pressure filter the oil, however, is to use the sand filter from a common swimming pool filtration system. You just make sure you have the level of filter media that will clean your oil enough for the application. If you are only using it for a heater, it can be pretty coarse, but if it is for a diesel fuel injector, it needs to be quite fine.
@@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 nice one , thanks for the info . I’m an engineer and can knock up must things . Like being self sufficient. Much appreciated reply. I would say the more refining the better depending on your intentions of use . Like the centrifuge idea best and an IBC container full of old oil . Yorkshire water used to use a flocking agent to clean the water but that would be far too costly for this application . Polyester mat would work well they use it for pond filters and I use it vacuum bagging carbon fibre car parts . Hydraulic pumps use stainless filters and can be cleaned not sure how many microns they go down to . Once again thanks for your advice and input 👍👍
@@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 totally on a different subject . You do see a lot of rocket burners what I can’t work out is if they burn too hot and too quick then they are not that efficient due to heat loss through the flue . If you used the charcoal manufacturing method by using wood on a slow controlled burn and restrict oxygen flow then you get a long slow burn from the wood and then charcoal as a by product to burn a second time . May work dunno , got too many projects to experiment.
@@jigsey. From what was said, regular diesel was mixed 50/50 with the results of this recipe for biodiesel with no harm. That said, this particular recipe is one step short of making diesel that would work perfectly. But the recipe used in the video does appear to make for a much easier/faster removal of glycerin or glycerols.
Make a mantle from your previous video and put it on the same stove, the top of the mantle I used a cat food can. Cut side out of a popcorn tin as heat reflector. Never tried the biodiesel except for the 1:1 diesel/cornola oil. Cornola oil has more fats so I will try this method so it's not so rough on the wicks. Your videos are well appreciated, thank you
Well maybe agar agar might just do the same thing . I did have a mate years ago who filter his used veg oil through a bucket of sawdust with a hole at the bottom and he just used 30% diesel and would put it in his old Toyota van . He never had a problem and said it come out of the filter good enough to do that so maybe only modern engines need extra treatment .
Thanks for the gelatin trick, just so you know, in North America, we call paraffin oil, "kerosene", it's pretty expensive here lately, about $7 per gallon (3.89L).
I had a snigger in one of your recent films where you mentioned making biodiesel in 1784 ……..seeing as a lot of people on the internet loose all common sense I instantly started sniggering thinking of someone getting it wrong and thinking you meant the year 1784 😂😂😂
Thanks in general for all your interesting videos but in particular for using the word toot. I haven't heard it for decades and it reminds me of my youth and long gone grandparents. Good luck further tinkering and a Merry Christmas.
I KNEW IT I always can count on my nose on what smells exactly what Some vehicles here had the smell of candle when they exhaust their fumes, and that's what the paraffin is for like in this video It seems they are making a hack biodiesel but in exchange for making their vehicle have 'smoke belching' now I can confirm my sense of smell is actually great
amazing. with car fuel the viscosity of the fuel is important.. if the oil is too gloopy it will stick in the fuel pipes on a cold day (over time) and be hard to start. I'm guessing the parrafin mixture with help thin it out.
Thanks mate… very interesting as all your videos are…. Although your other method takes more effort, having tried both I think the other method makes a far better brew. It’s cleaner, feels and looks like a closer viscosity to regular pump diesel. Great to see other ways that work tho. Cheers
If you make an oil jet heater, you really just need to run it through a screen to take out the biggest chunks so they don’t clog the jet. And that collection of chunks can be thrown into the fire separately. No loss at all.
@@marilynreno7510 not necessarily, but generally you do need something to get it started. That can be wood, charcoal, paper, blowtorch, propane jet, etc. Just anything that heats up the furnace enough to maintain combustion
I got myself a crank hot oil press from Vevor this Xmas which I've yet to use. I'm planning on pressing from peanuts and the like, maybe even trying from freely foraged seeds in the spring and summer. This is a great method to quickly purify oil to make biodiesel, great stuff. Love your channel ☺️
What country are you from if you don't mind? I ask because I'm from the USA and heating doesn't seem to be an issue to do such things anywhere in the US.
I run it throw a J Clough now as for adding paraffin if you get a pull by VOSA if you have waste oil in your tank not a problem but paraffin is a problem . i have done this since the 1980s mostly in Mercedes last couple of years in a 300tdi
That's fantastic! I looked into making biodiesel several years ago but was slightly put off by the method of making it (Ethanol and caustic soda was the original "recipe"), but this seems much simpler. (And seemingly less risk of damage to fuel pipes that the ethanol could do (Like the trouble people are having with E10 petrol at the moment)) It makes me wonder how a Toyota diesel engine would run with it? I've been adding a touch of SVA (Straight Vegetable Oil) to the fuel tank in my truck and the engine seems to perform better with it.
Should run fine, may need preheating in colder climate. People run similar mixes like "black diesel" which is a mixture of filtered used motor/hydraulic oil and petrol.
once methanol, lye, and oil mix, it creates a chemical reaction that changes the composition of the elements. its not similar to actually putting ethanol or methanol in your diesel engine
@@SteveEh I used to have a Toyota Estima that I would run on a 30/70 SVA/diesel mix and the engine would start effortlessly and would rev a lot more freely. As for temperatures it's worth investigating. Mind you, when I was on a biodiesel discussion forum many years ago a member from Canada said that he would run his pickup (He never mentioned what make or model) on a 50/50 mix right through the Canadian winters with no problem.
I've driven about 180,000 miles on WVO. Firstly, its not without issues, so problem solving is a must. Secondly, it is better in an engine with indirect injection. This means an older - more inefficient engine that uses a Pinto style injector - (larger nozzles). The oil must still be pre-heated before going to the injector pump - so start up / shut down was always on ordinary diesel. I think that the same would apply to your mix of veg and paraffin. Technically you would also need to pay duty on the parafin as it isn't taxed for road fuel. HMRC provide an exemption for alternative non fossil fuels allowing up to 2500 litres usage per year duty free. Use more than that and you pay duty tax on the lot! I used a centrifuge to clean the oil - it was very simple - pour the WVO into a drum through a fabric sieve (net curtain), draw the wvo from 6" off the bottom through a small gear pump (10L hr) into the centrifuge, where it then drops into a 40gal drum. I would change the filter and the bottom of the collection drum after six months, but my oil was always good quality. The centrifuge and gear pump operated on a timer - up to 2 hours so allowing me to prevent running the gear pump dry or overfilling the oil drum. A heating oil pump linked to a hose with a trigger nozzle allowed me to fill the car at the flick of a switch. When the tank filled, you could hear it gurgle, enabling you to stop before overflowing.
Good interesting video. Some points: it's not biodiesel, which is fatty acid methyl ester, whereas veg oil is triglyceride. Both biodiesel and especially the paraffin thinned oil will clog almost all diesel particulate filters. Many people who run on biodiesel have their DPF's (illegally) removed. As for the Peugeot 206, the Pug/Citroen DPF FAP system is more tolerant of biodiesel. If it's an old 206 it might not have a dpf, but there's a danger of ring gumming. Personally, if I were running on thinned veg oil I'd add petrol, not paraffin.
@@patrickday4206 Petrol can't pre ignite in a diesel engine, there's no spark, so not pinging (pinking). If you use too much petrol or in very hot weather (which we rarely get in the UK) it's possible to have vapour lock. I ran a Suzuki Vitara (indirect engine, note) for years on oil thinned with 10% petrol with no issues.
@@billguyan1913 your telling me that the heat from the pressure inside the cylinder won't ignite the gas? And possibly cause some ping? Do petrol and diesel ignite at the same pressure? Deisels are built stronger to withstand higher pressures but it could add up if the gas was igniting early?
All of the used oils and hydraulic fluids I collect at home I catch as clean as possible in a catch can I keep sealed in double trash bags. When full, I pour the 15 qts into 5-qt oil jugs I save from new oil/fluid changes. I let the jugs sit for at least 90 days and then slowly pour off the top 4 quarts. The last quart has the settled solids or contamination in it. I mix 3 gal of the clean used oil with gasoline nearly 1:1 in 5 gallon fuel cans and shake for 1 minute, and put two 5-gallons cans into a 3/4 full tank of diesel. My 2005 Ram diesel has a 40 gallon tank. This makes a mix of about 15% used oils. It seems to run fine Winter and Summer. I do change my fuel filter a little sooner than typical, about every 10,000 miles, rather than 15,000. The dirty oil left in each jug i combine again and let settle another 90 days and repeat. The 2nd time I pour off the top and use the remainder as chain-lube and make two-cycle fuel for my chainsaw, and some start my wood boiler at night. It's a cheap and easy way to get rid of collected fluids, have a little free fuel, and not waste anything either.
There is someone on YT that filters his WVO down to 10 microns with just a filtering cloth sack and then cuts the oil with kerosene or red diesel, he was using the red diesel mix in an off grid generator and the kerosene mix in his diesel pickup. He made the point that you did not have to deal with getting rid of the glycerin and adding the two different solvents made the WVO thinner in viscosity so as to not damage the injectors and make sure the injectors atomized the fuel properly for a clean burn.
That's an interesting process Rob. I imagine the gelatine acts as a flocculant to remove the impurities from the waste oil? I'm betting polyacrylamide gel will also work and would also react well with the glycerine - possibly without the need to add paraffin. Let me know if you want me to send you some polyacrylamide gel for testing purposes.
@@24revealer good question.. so lets say.. you fill up the tank with diesel but leave enough room for WVO to be mixed in "good" ratio.. and what about new vegetable oil(last time I checked it was much cheaper then diesel ), could this go straight in the tank to be mixed with diesel?! it would (if works) be much easier for people who dont have a time etc and you still could save some money .. any Idea?!
@@ImhotepBE in wales that was called boyio diesel, police were stopping customers at a local grocery store who were buying up vegatable oil for that very purpose. It's not illegal as long as you declare it and pay the tax levy on fuel.
@@livesportsvideo if I remember correctly, we are allowed to make/use up to 1000L a year of bio-diesel without paying any tax- I'm not sure if is still the same, it was few years ago...I knew somebody who spent over 20 or 30k £ for bio-diesel set-up..it was years ago..he said that at the beginning it was very good business, until government decided to "help" , as always 😂
I used to run my old land rover 90 TD (and later TDi) on WVO diesel 50/50 mix - it smelled lovely! (But if you reversed anywhere, the cab would fill with the smell of cooking chips, so you’d have to stop and buy some) - but I do remember being told at the time that if you put anything like parrafin, heating oil, meths, thinners etc in the tank (or anything really other than duty-paid diesel, with the permissible WVO) to thin the WVO, HMRC didn’t like it and would take the car and crush it. There is a limit with WVO of something like 6000L a year before they worry but they don’t like people adding non-road duty paid fossil fuels in.
A fun experiment might be to try a capillary action filtration. Dirty oil up higher, a wick in that container over the side to a lower container to catch the clean oil.
@@methanial73 Now you know I'm going to have to look up redneck centrifuge. I wonder if it's a device for separating rednecks from other people by spinning them on a merry-go-round :)
Nice way to clean the oil thanks Robert. Worked with my old VW Sharan which was a direct injection engine 1.9 diesel. Tryed it on a common rail Diesel engine it did not like it the torences of the the injectors are too fine. You also get a chip shop smell everywhere you go from the exhaust. The energy value is lower than diesel so expect lower MPG.
ROB IVE GOT ONE AND WAS GOING TO TELL YOU ABOUT IT THEY ARE BRILLIANT BUT I FIND THE WICKS BURN OUT EASY SO I LOOKED UP ROPE SUPPLYS AND GOT SOME BRAIDED 6MM COTTON ROPE AND FOUND IT TO LAST A LOT LONGER BUT THAT PATENT WITH THE GELATINE IS EASY DONT KNOW HOW YOU COME UP WITH ALL THESE THINGS I THINK YOU ARE AMAZING AND WATCH AND LIKE ALL YOUR VIDEOS
I have run my old renault on cooking oil straight out of the bottle, the reason i don't at the moment is it's actually more expensive that diesel. I used to work near a cafe and get waste oil for free I would just run it through a couple of filters and bung it straight in, I had on old Astra then. I'm not to certain about running it in the modern "Common Rail" stuff though. It will never be a problem with me as I won't be dictated to by an ECU so always have an old banger.
How about showing people how to save money on electricity use like using cold outside air as a refrigerator or dryer exhaust to heat your home instead of exhausting it.
Robert I love your Channel thank you for posting just a thought I found a guy online who's using a sand battery that he mixes carbon in with the sand makes the battery conductive and uses resistance running through the sand. Just thought I'd share I look forward to your videos everyday. Sending greetings from New York State
5 Gallon bucket. Drill 3/4" holes in perimeter of lid around edge. Cut hole in center and attach a *METAL* dryer hose flange with rivets. I already tried 3D printing in PET-G...worked for awhile but deformed due to higher heat than expected!!! Would have to 3D print in ABS but my 3D printer won't print that high of a temperature and I don't have an exhaust system setup. Once the lid is completed, fill bucket about 1/3rd full of water which helps to trap any lint that gets past your dryer lint filter. This device does two things. It reclaims the heat back in to your dwelling and it supplements your dry winter air with humidified air thus dramatically reducing respiratory issues!!! This setup will put out ALOT of humidity QUICKLY!!! You'll want to use a circulation fan to disperse the humidity to other areas of your home!!! Here where I live in Mississippi, it's ridiculously humid in the summer--gotta use an air conditioner constantly!!!...and in the winter it's crazy dry!!! I can run the central gas furnace but it doesn't get "comfortable" until I use my "swamp cooler" (evaporative cooler) to entrain moisture into the dry air. Only then does it become "comfortable"!!! I try to maintain humidity between 50-60%...anything less is uncomfortable and allows for static electricity!!! Can't allow that as I have various sensitive electronic devices around the house!!!
how about not running damp dryer exhaust air into the house? You could build a heat exchanger to take some of the heat out of it, but is it worth the faff? Better to dry clothes outside even if you have to build a little roof over your line.
20 plus years ago in California we had people that had dual tank diesel Box trucks they would run diesel in one tank and fryer oil in the other. When they had to pull into inspection area they would switch over to diesel prior to pulling in As the highway patrol would sniff and if it smelt like a McDonald's you could be in trouble. Love your channel happy New Year's coming at you from the mountains of Southern Oregon
@@Look_What_I_Did The bobtail trucks were running AV equipment from northern California to Nevada. The fryer oil was not dyed with any sort of coloring and they did do this. Back in those days most people did not even know that diesels Could even run on other than diesel fuel. Years ago the islanders in popua New Guinea with their fuel diesel cut off they resorted and it worked using coconut oil in their little diesel pickups. Me thinks that the video about the islanders was the Coconut Revolution. Blessings to you and yours and happy New Year's
The easiest method to filtering waste cooking oil is pour it through denim in a sink strainer spread over a 55 gallon barrel. Let the oil sit for a week to 10 days. Gravity drops solids to the bottom of the barrel and good oil rises to the top. I did this for years.
Dr. Smith. I read an interesting Article some time ago about a farmer who developed a biodiesel formula that was very interesting. He mixed SVO with gasoline at 80% SVO and 20% gasoline by volume ( he later went lower on the gasoline for a 'summer blend'). He found this blend by testing hundreds of additives on an injector test bench. He claimed the final product had more energy density than diesel, and better performance all round. I'd be curious if it works better then paraffin. :-)
I used waste veg oil for a few years in an old Toyota Landcruiser. Just had to cold filter it (you need a spare 24 hrs) and use a glow plug heater I made to preheat it after it came out of the tank. Started and stopped on diesel to clean the system.
This is very interesting. I ran my MB 300D on veggi oil for about 100K miles. Personally I wouldn't do it this way because for automotive use as the added cost and complexity of adding the gelatin, water (a HUGE no-no in my mind as water is the enemy) and the time to allow it to settle isn't worth it But regardless, this is cool. I'd like to see you do the "crackle test", i.e., put the finished product in a pan that's heated to 350ºF. If it crackles the fuel is to wet for automotive use. The water will destroy the pump. I love your videos, terribly interesting and you're entertaining to watch without even trying!
I got oil that was filtered and spun but still gross slimy. I have lye but no methanol. Someone mentioned to heat it up water and gelatin. They must have watched your video!!! I'm going to try this asap.
I saw a video where waste oil was put in a jug with a bottom drain. Looked like an upside down water cooler jug. It was outside in the sun. It was 3/4 full of oil, then topped up with water and stirred. Next morning most of the crud settled to the bottom and was drained out, then more water was added. After 3 washings the oil looked quite clean. Here in Canada we call that SVO. To burn in most diesel engines people make SVO87...adding 13% gasoline makes good fuel until it goes below zero. Then you must pre-heat the fuel or it gels. I find your videos interesting but I doubt if I could find some of the materials you use. I've never seen bags of gelatin or jugs of paraffin. Or carbon cloth that you used in another video. Maybe advise what kind of suppliers deal in these special items. Thanks for what you do!
I've been collecting oil and will make bio diesel, just have a couple questions; 1- does it have to be pork gelatine or can beef gelatine be used? 2- in an always warm climate ~15-25°c is parafin / kerosene required? 3- can regular diesel be used instead of parafin? TIA
I've never heard the phrase _"for [some amount] you can't fall off"_ before - I've always heard _"you can't go wrong",_ but I think I like yours better.
You can use it without adding the paraffin if your diesel si not direct injected, and does not have a rotary pump. Old 60 series 2H landcruisers will generally run fine on straight cooking oil as long as it's not too cold. In the tropics it's fine.
A little tip for filtering oil for pretty much any purpose: They make 1 micron "filter bags" but they aren't the fastest method, but very effective. So what I do is allow the oil to settle for a day, this allows the particulate contaminates and water to go to the bottom, I then pump out the top 80% or so to leave all that on bottom. Then I put the filter bag in a section of PVC with a collar, fill with the oil, then I have a shop vac with the appropriate sized adapter to fit on the bottom of the PVC the filter is in. What happens is the shop vac actively pulls the oil through the 1 micron filter quite quickly- basically a large poor man's Buchner funnel, filter and flask all in one.
I bought wvo said it was filtered and spun. Added a bit of fuel and didn't wanna burn properly. Does this method remove that slim? Glycine?
old denim as prefilters....
@@lezbriddon That's a great idea, would definitely extend the life of the filter bags.
The cooks way to clean and reuse vegetable oil is to mix some cornflour with water and add it to the oil. Then heat the oil up until the cornflour thickens up, and catches all the floaters. So you can scoop it out in big lumps. Videos available on TH-cam.
Hoover bag?
Took me a few minutes to discover that in the UK, 'paraffin' is what we in the States call 'kerosene' :) When I hear paraffin, I usually think of wax
There is kerosene and then lamp oil paraffin. The latter burns cleaner (it's more refined) and tends to be more expensive.
I thought the same thing 😊
I was getting a bit confused
@@justinw1765 So is he using kerosene or is he using lamp oil here ?
Same here in Australia... Kero !
these gent's make youtube worth watching again.
The cost of used frying oils WVO varies around the UK from having to pay for it to being paid to take it away - the difference can be huge. I ran Diesel Engined Road vehicles on pure WVO for years, and it was sensible to have a heat exchanger to heat it up before it got into the injection pump as it as fairly viscose, and had a separate filter, as at some temperatures or with any sediment a filter could clog up - this obviously infers the need for a second fuel tank and a switchover system from one fuel to the other: We used Diesel to start and stop the engine to make it easy to start. It worked really well for years but effectiveness does vary from engine to engine - my Ford Transit was happy enough with it, as a Direct Injection Diesel (DI) engine, but my Citroen (Peugeot Diesel as standard) worked really well as it is an Indirect Injection Engine (IDI): Indeed with that Peugeot engone I got around 10-20% better economy PLUS some 20% more power, plus the engine was almost silent, even on a motorway - one heard the wind rushing over the car rather than hearing the engine. The only disadvantage to using WVO was the filtering effort, time and mess - and the need to heat it to filter, it except in summer. One thing to note was the additives we experimented with to get rid of/dissolve some floating 'other fats' on top of the bulk of the WVO - natural turpentine was best for this (not the chemical variant known as white spirit, though they look similar). We also had good results with paraffin, but I don't recall the exact results of the various experiments with it, (sorry to say) as we generally used some 97% pure WVO with a little paraffin and a very little Turpentine - we were limited in road use applications by regulations on the amount additives, by HMRC who were hot on it as the first people started to use it in numbers - I always felt this stymied research in typically 'British government' style. One is allowed to make a certain amount for private use these days - unless laws have changed from 15 years ago, this allows one to make one ton a year without registering with HMRC as a fuels producer as I was, so don't go off selling it openly ;) I really look forward to trying this new mix and at different temperatures to see if it is now practical for use ('filtering') as far north as we are now in Scandinavia. Please note that certain injector pumps such as Bosch were fine with WVO with its lubricity, but other injector pumps don't like it (Lucas and others) and failed totally after a thousand miles or less: It will be interesting to hear how this 'new' fuel fares in that respect. For the record, pure WVO (even in the less efficient Ford Transit ID engine) showed zero particulate emissions at an MOT testing station at any revs - they thought their machine was broken until I swapped back onto Diesel: Technically, it also reduces several other harmful emissions, but raises one slightly - I have no idea how that would compare with a WVO/Paraffin mixture at 50%. Interestingly, when used in a wick lamp, paraffin burns very cleanly, but *cannot* be replaced by Diesel which soots them up very quickly and heavily - inferring that perhaps we ought to not be banning/extra taxing Diesel cars but instead using them on paraffin, perhaps with a little modification of fuel and/or vehicle, such as this one - could it really be this simple?! Thanks for the video :)
I wish I could use it here in Belgium. BUT.... I have been through a police FUEL control here 5-6 times. I'm always ok. But if the fuel isn't "picco-bello" as it should be tax wise, you are in serious trouble...
That's why my use for this would be my Chinese diesel parking heater in my garden work cabin. Where its doing a tremendous job !
If I can get oil from my local friterie (chip shop), I think this super simple way is worth the effort by far
Now that's a text wall.. 😉
@@Dr_Wrong do you like the group Simple Minds? More than 20 syllables a challenge? Try War and Peace... ;)
Amazing piece.. Particularly about the zero emissions particulates on WVO. Why is there no commercial drive to harness this? Oh what a world we live in...
@@Patent247 there are - fuel from filling stations across Europe has around 5% plant oil in it at the pump. Which is why marinas have special pure mineral diesel (at a higher price) for boats - so that when not used they don't get 'bacterial growth' in their tanks. There's not enough Waste Veg Oil for everyone, and when big companies started food oil plantations the environmentalists went nuts over deforestation, monoculture and other effects on ecosystems and local economies. Waste food oil was fed to animals, a practice largely banned, but it does go for making cosmetics, especially lipstick. If you find a source of cheap/free WVO just be happy :)
My 206 estate i run for 3 years on kebab shop oil, strained through nylon tights, in cold times i would add a drop of diesel 50/50, run like a dream neat or mixed and the smell was amazing. 🙂 ,, and all my Diesel cars since have never failed emissions , 50/50 a day before the MOT JD.
Which other cars have you tried it on since the Peugeot? I believe that you have to be careful which make and model you put it in for different reasons. For example, I read that biodiesel can perish some types of hose in your engine - can’t recall which material it affects though.
@@wilyc0y0te Nylon parts in the fuel system veg oil tends to thicken/cling on plastics, might be because its porous but not sure.. escort tdi 1997, 205 saloon ,206 Quicksilver estate 2005/6, 2016 Golf 2.0 TDI, Renault master van 2009,, hope this helps,, newer models i would mix with a 50/50 diesel/paraffin/ turps, also Ive filtered dirty oil using a fine spray of luke warm water sprayed over the oil and drained off at the bottom,, once the oil has settled on top, this is after filtering through nylon tights, although water alone does a pretty good job of cleaning. To be honest if i had a diesel now any year i would do the same,, take that chance and replace the parts if they fail, I think the glycerin is the main problem, removing that makes it biodiesel,, currently i have a 1993 benz and hoping to run this on Hydrogen (dirty),, that's the plan..
@@PureEnigma I ran a '97 land rover and a '56 plate one in similar way but I bought the biodiesel from a local company at around 20p per litre less. I much prefer your approach with the nylon tights!
@@PureEnigma I met a guy about 15 years ago, who used to drive his 90s Mercedes estate around and get used veg oil while on his travels. He had a web site called carbon neutral car or something similar and used to document his travels around Europe. Really interesting!
Pug life 😁
For those of us who don't speak the King's English (i.e., Americans), what the Britsh call paraffin is kerosene. I have no idea what they call paraffin wax.
we call it paraffin wax
They call paraffin wax wobbie nork stick.. l believe...haha
Excellent. We used to collect the waste oil and let it settle in the tank. Had a drip feed into a gas bottle burner to heat an old cottage that we grew plants in. Place stank of chips though! Wish I'd known this then. We had 1000's of liters dirty oil. I'd be bloody minted! Great video as always!
good idea that.... i might have to write t down..... i wonder if people could set up small companies doing this for people
@@bigmouthstrikesagain4056 Here in Ireland anyway they're very strict on fuels. The "Red Diesel" is verboten. At the same time they never shut up about renewables. No bleedin' money in it for them more like.
@@bigmouthstrikesagain4056 Some places you might get in trouble with the environmental agencies because it's not officially approved as fuel. The patent might also make it problematic. However, I'm sure there would be lots of buyers for gas at half price.
@@bigmouthstrikesagain4056 There are places in the UK. I used to fuel my landrover on waste oil (20/80 with diesel usually), processed by a company close by. When I moved house, it was logistically challenging to get there for a fill up, and they weren't 24hr like the motorway garages, so I stopped going. I changed the diesel filter more regularly, but I expect it wasn't completely necessary, just a precaution.
I used to clean my used vegetable oil, with a homemade centrifuge. In winter I used to mix it with Kerosene (28 second heating oil), and put it straight in my diesel Audi A4 convertible. The centrifuge cleaning system was fully automated, and turned itself off, after filtering 25 L.
Can you do a video of the centrifuge
Just a little disclaimer for Robert here, some modern cars have a really hard time on veg oil biofuel. Things like fuel pump/injector seals and rubber hoses can eventually react with it and cause a BIG repair bill.
So do your own homework before deciding if you want to risk putting any alternative fuels in a car.
Heaters and stoves on the other hand, the worst case scenario is you'll bug*er up a 5 to 20 quid wick, so with paraffin now at 2+ quid a litre, the risk is still well worth the potential savings.
How are skidsteers and tractors affected?
That's why Robert mentioned testing this fuel in peugeot 205 diesel engine which was discontinued in 1999.
Yeah we have had this concern too , ye ol farm tractors and old land rovers etc would prob run perfectly ok . Anything after 1995 /2000 I would be quite hesitant, due to delicate electronically controlled injectors . I know a haulage firm that used bio and they had no end of problems with injectors etc and probably ended up costing more in repairs running on bio . We run bmw race cars and have even had issues with our braided fuel lines where they all swelled up and had to be replaced . This was all down to the new spec petrol mistakenly being put in the tank rather than the premium grade pump / forecourt fuel . Modern vehicles are highly sensitive and with the amount of woke legislation regarding immissions it won’t be long before the muppets are out in force doing roadside spot checks and confiscating your vehicle for poor emissions . As a form of heating oil etc Bob on . Like this guy tough should be more people like this 👍
In Norway they will demand 20% biofuel in auto diesel. A lot of cars will suddenly get very big problems.
@@sjoroverpirat Yeah. Apparently here in the UK we saw an increase in car engine bay fires when the government decided that we should all go from 5% to 10% bio ethanol fuels. 5% is still available, but only in the ridiculously expensive premium "Super unleaded" grades of fuel.
The government seems hell bent to get older cars off the road, so the cynic in me is thinking that this move will not only makes the powers that be look like they're ticking "Green issue" boxes, but would also eventually condemn well over half a million older UK cars to the scrap heap prematurely.
If an older car is only worth a few hundred pounds/dollars, it's hard to justify replacing most of the seals and hoses in it's fuel system due to them either not being compatible with this higher bio ethanol blend of fuel, or are already suffering with swollen/cracked/ruptured rubber seals and pipework because they've been using it already.
I'm getting flashbacks to when lead was removed from the UK's road fuel (But for some reason, not from aviation fuel !?!?). The government said "Lead substitute treatments will be available in petrol stations for cars that can't use unleaded". Most cars could use the additive, but a lot still suffered serious premature engine wear issues. Then about 5 years after leaded fuel was gone, so were the additives from most forecourt shops. You can still get them, but it's usually something you need to order online, so it's not exactly convenient. A lot of old cars broke because of them banning leaded fuel........... And a lot of new cars were sold to replace them (with the associated new vehicle taxes going straight to the government who banned the fuel).
Here in Belgium, used cooking oil has outdoor collection bins. Many are overflowing with plastic bottles of used oils.
I just have a square plastic bin in the back of my car and put them in.
Today i picked up 20 liters. Mostly clear light colour.
I will do what you do here and feed it to my "diesel parking heater". One liter lasts many hours for me in my work cabin.
can you elaborate on your heater setup?
I've been running my 1985 Mitsubishi Pajero on WVO since about 2018. My mix ranges from 100% to 50/50 with petrol, diesel or paraffin. Being in South Africa I tend to drop down to 50/50 in winter.
This cleaning technique is great. Never saw it before and worth a look.
My oil was so clean that it looked almost like new oil. My prefilter was rags layed into cheap mesh sieves. Then it was pumped through a hydraulic tank filter with a hand drum pump into my first tank. From there I used an electric pump to push it through a 1 micro filter. I had a few thousand liters to filter, so this was the easiest and cheapest process I could come up with.
As for getting oil. That dried up many years ago. Luckily I filtered and squirrelled oil away.
There was a time when I literally had oil thrown at me, but today they use mainly Palm oil and sell their used oil back to the supplier.
Right now I'm researching black diesel.
I have a few years experience of driving with homemade biodiesel. I still find the best mixer was 1/3 kerosene and 2/3 clean dewatered WVO. There is no danger to you motor to run on
WVO but just one thing to bear in mind is that the homemade biodiesel does not have the same lubrication qualities as the nor mal road diesel so it will in time damage your engine, but by them you will have saved the price of a new car! Best to use on a cheap old car/van
Try mixing in some two-stroke oil to act as a lubricant. You can Google the subject and find a lot of people do a 100:1 mix ratio (typically) to help keep the injectors and pump gears lubricated. I do the same and have no issues.
protect this man at all costs
Nice one Robert!! Been watching the prices of veg oil for a number of years in supermarkets and its interesting to note that veg oil matches the rise and fall of diesel. I wonder why!!!
Bit obvious. You could give restaurants 50p a litre and still be only paying about 70-90p a litre of diesel depending on the mix.
I bet most restaurants would bite your hands off if you offered them that much.
@@Vile_Entity_3545 No point offering more if you're offering a service taking it away and they're happy with that.
Eventually if people pay more and more too readily, it will become ridiculously expensive anyway.
Some Good advice may be to purchase a petrol vehicle next time unless buying new, who knows what people have been using as fuel for a few years before moving their vehicles unto someone else, not their problem anymore.
By 2030, apparently there'll be no more new petrol and diesel cars being manufactured, most of the second hand diesel's will probably be problematic from improper fuel usage.
That's our green future if it goes to plan Kelly.
The human health status interestingly declined since we all started consuming "vegetable oils".......... there is actually NO SUCH THING as a "vegetable oil".....they are seed oils.
When heating oil shot up earlier in the year I spotted supermarkets were sometimes selling vegetable oil for less per litre. I ran our oil boiler on a mixture for awhile. It was mostly kerosene but it meant I avoided having to fill the tank until prices came down a bit. Sadly the supermarket offers dissapesred as well.
dirty n toxic in all its applications
That is so much easier than other methods to refine cooking oil into biodiesel. You could wash out even more impurities but it looks like it burns pretty clean. Now to put this with your DIY marine stove and some of your strange engines and we have come full circle. Love it! Thanks Rob!
absolutely mate lol
This is a great way to re use my old vegetable oil. I use in my deep fryer. I normally filter it and store it for such things as this.
I am ready for a hard freeze and power outage of 5 days to a week. As always very informative video. You never disappoint Rob.
Nice. Old method of purifying wine was to use egg whites. That's why wine making regions of France have lots of recipes that just call for egg yolks.
I was thinking egg whites would work but gelatine is easier to gt a lot of lol
God, the French are annoying.
@@ThinkingandTinkering I hope in years to come, no-one gets that joke :-)
What were they purifying it for? If there was some debris in the bottle?
@@barnabyvonrudal1 I'm told when it was in the barrel, an egg white would sink to the bottom, and it'd trap particulates
It’s your enthusiasm from the start that keeps us coming back
Had a 1985 Ford F-250 with dual tanks. It was an indirect injection naturally aspirated engine IDK about the newer engines, but actually used just strained oil in rear tank as long as you start with diesel on front tank to get it up to temperature then switch tanks and 15 min or so before turning off, switch back to diesel tank to clear lines.
You probably had also a heatexchanger attached to the cooling circuitloop that heated the strained oil before it entered the engine. I heard that even with new diesel cars it is possible to run on waste oile then.
@@rickyvanass7192 I think the pump itself acted as a heat exchanger which is why it worked as long as I started on actual diesel for the warm up. I've heard newer engines do need an added heat exchanger but tbh IDK for sure 🤠
@@rickyvanass7192 yes but the levels you have to filter it to makes it harder new injectors are finicky and expensive to replace I wondered if part of the reason they switched was because oil companies wanted to make it harder!
Great work! Keep it up. We're a international NGO working to make the world waste free. We will give this method a try ASAP. We will need all the help we can get. Thanks in advance!
I ran my diesel car on 10 to 50%, summer to winter, new cooking oil for ages until the price went through the roof, no processing straight into the tank. Kept the cost down run a treat.
nice
Wow......many thanks. Spent many pounds and many hours making my bio diesel . (Heating, filtering, mixing etc etc. )Can't wait to try this method. Run 2 Chinese heaters but always used Red marine diesel, so now I'll try this. Gladly subscibed and liked . Mikep.
I'm going to try this filtering method for soap making as I use a bit to make soap for my "supplier" (also a restaurant).
I can attest to the handling headache. Since I burn it straight in a mass heater I only need to remove the "big" chunks. I run it through a filter made from an old sock, by gravity. Pretty simple and the leftover food bits in the oil burn just fine! When I was prepping for engine combustion (got rid of the vehicle some time ago) I picked up a centrifuge. For volume filtering, you can't beat it!
I have been making my own biodiesel from free WVO for the past 14 years and used it 100% in a Rover 75, Ford 2.0tdci Galaxy and now a Toyota Rav4, 2.2 Diesel. No problems, except a little smoke from exhaust on a cold frosty morning (I live in Nottingham). The biodiesel will start to gell up at minus 7 deg.C. which has only occurred once in the 14 years I have been using this. The Ford Galaxy I used it in for 3 years has been sold on and is still on the road using ordinary diesel, now with 170,000 miles on the clock . My MOT tester says my exhausts have been as clean as new cars.
Careful with biofuels and cold temps. if the engine and fuel delivery system isn't properly set up for biodiesel you can really gel up your engine in the winter.
Yep, mix with normal diesel 50/50 in the cold weather.
mixed with 30% kerosene seems to work ok.
@@rocklover7437 Only if you own a Boeing. In Australia Jet A is $2.54/litre at the pump.
Pretty cool! Easiest way I found to do my own Bio diesel after sick of messing about filtering etc
I made a centrifuge from couple of old pans and a blender motor! Dead easy n very quick! Separates the contaminants & water content... Used on several vehicles over the last 8 yrs some neat and some diluted with some diesel.
I meet tempted to experiment with the gelatin 💪👍
nice tip mate cheers
I love your videos, they all have a practical application. I made a K stove according to your design, and it makes an incredible amount of heat. it gobbles up fuel so fast, I had to restrict the air inlet so that it didn't melt the pipes.
I love how happy this guy is
Clever use of gelatin. Here in US, refined soy /canola oil is used...and we just use some sodium hydroxide and methanol. Works well in any engine with purely mechanical injection systems...ie..pre-1994 typically in cars. Only caveat is its not cold tolerant....👍
Such a lovely gent you are! I am sending this vid from the USA back to my friends in the UK, struggling through winter. Thank you!
I love that you use science to come up with simpler ways of doing complex things. Great video.
cheers mate
RMS is totally Amazing !
If anyone wants the definition of "Stamina" or "Determination", he is It. RMS truly is.
My dad did 200k miles fishing up and down the UK collecting and filtering oil from chip shops along the way to power his Citroen ZX with his own custom fuel line heaters to aid its use in winter additive free. Everywhere he went he was advertising for all the chips shops with the smell of his car exhaust 😂
nice lol
Hello Robert , 21 degrees in Kingsford Michigan , another fantastic day , no complaints !
I know of a similar mixture that they call “Black Diesel”. It’s basically filtered used motor oil mixed with gasoline/petrol. I think it can only be used in older “dumb diesels” tractors older trucks and such. Some newer “smart diesels” have an optical fuel sensor to shut down the engine if the fuel is not clear enough.
you could remove the optical sensor I suppose?
@@DKFX1 This is true. Although I suspect the computer would need to be tricked into thinking the sensor was still in use. I’m sure there are several ways to do this ,some low tech methods and some high.
@@motormaker Put the sensor in a bit of pipe with some nice low-sulfur diesel. Though my tractor's catalytic converter likely would fail.
Black diesel soon cokes up injectors, no matter how much the engine oil is purified.
@@billguyan1913 Can you run some type of liquid through it to cleanse the system or does it have to be disassembled and removed with elbow grease?
I use industrial coffee filters, cheap by the hundred. warm the oil and let filter. Then just mix 50/50 with regular diesel. works for me, and in 20 years never had a problem.
For those in a hurry, put large batches inside of a spinning barrel [say if you get one of those old used washing machines which happens to have an amazingly small number of drain holes, so you can more easily plug them off, or perhaps line the tub with a thin sheet of polyester fiber and resin (I would never use fiberGLASS for this because it can break off and contaminate the product with abrasive glass if all goes badly, but polyester blanket is super soft and flexible, so it won't ever break off into your product] just to close off the gaps, remove the central agitator [unless you use it AS an agitator to do the heavy mixing for you], modify the switch to your new centrifuge so as to either alter or eliminate the little clock since it will remove your ability to put the unit on any cycle for more than a short period of time, and you probably want a longer period of time to spin or agitate, and then, disable the lid safety stop switch [its only going to be a problem for this anyhow] finally, set up a siphon tube to be lowered directly into the spinning vat so you can siphon off the skimmed oil at speed.
The reason for such a device is that you can do 20 or 30 gallons at a time with a decent sized washer [vertical axis only here, won't work on a horizontal one, for the most obvious of reasons], and, with a few additional considerations, can even be used in a continuous flow process much like an old cream separator.
That said, if you can just GET a cream separator, you have it made, because they are already continuous flow centrifuges.
I have looked at cross sections of cream separators, and, while they are indeed a great idea, would be pretty tough to just make at home, because they require a lot of very closely set, matching, balanced parts, and might not be cheap or easy to build from recycled bits, unless you just happen to come across some place which throws out copious amounts of uniform metal stampings of the right sizes and shapes.
But the general idea is that with centrifical forces, one could set up a constant flow-through process to pull off the waste and do so much more quickly than waiting for it to separate out by normal gravity, and one could avoid small batches which mean more work, or large static batches which mean much more of a wait time.
This would allow one to mix really large batches, and while one is staging, one can be separating out.
I have some 275 gallon HDPE tanks I got for various processes at my shop, and you can often get these used, either in food grade or petroleum grade [one I have came conveniently with 10 gallons of 5W-30 weight oil already in it, lucky me!] and with a decent opening at the top, and a valved opening at the bottom, it is easy to fill and drain them as long as you have them set to a workable height for the process, and you can stir them with a drop-in motor [they make such, of various types] or use a paint stirrer on the end of a hand drill.
If you go about setting up a whole bunch of oil to separate out, then you can slowly feed from the base of each tank into the separator device, so that it is always feeding in and always draining out at a fairly steady rate.
If one were really careful, one could build up the rim of a washer tub to have a spin-lip which would automatically allow spill-over of clean oil, and the dirty waste as 2 separate streams, but it would be a lot of work, and might require heavily modifying the washer body, and making some internal parts to place inside the barrel.
I admit, that the washing machine idea is sort of inferior to a normal cream separator [because of how much work and materials would be involved], but its larger, so it might be better for one who is looking to make a lot of fuel fast, over a very long period of time.
Tend to agree with you there , centrifuge would work better . Ideally a flocking agent could be used but this is technically the gelatine / filter , with the later being more cost effective along with the centrifuge .as a form of heating oil Bob on but for modern diesels? Bit iffy . Love this guy though as long as it helps someone that’s all that matters 👍
@@newagetemplar6100 There is a way to use diatomaceous earth as an oil/fuel bleaching agent, and you can use certain kinds of clay for it as well.
The idea is that you force the oil compound through a really fine mesh level material which, in essence 'scrapes away' [filters] out the big junk.
Technically, you do not use a gelatin when using a molecular sieve though, as it will clog up if you do.
Typically, because there is a certain level of refractory value to your molecular sieve, you can regenerate it by roasting it, but if you get a cheap enough supply, it may not be worth the effort.
Also, where a high pressure pump would be a real bugger to mess with, centrifuging the oil through the sieve works as well.
The difference being, that instead of skimming the oil off of the crud, you spin the oil through the sieve and the crud stays at the top of the filtrate and can be dry-skimmed if one so desires.
One quick and easy way to pressure filter the oil, however, is to use the sand filter from a common swimming pool filtration system.
You just make sure you have the level of filter media that will clean your oil enough for the application.
If you are only using it for a heater, it can be pretty coarse, but if it is for a diesel fuel injector, it needs to be quite fine.
@@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 nice one , thanks for the info . I’m an engineer and can knock up must things . Like being self sufficient. Much appreciated reply. I would say the more refining the better depending on your intentions of use . Like the centrifuge idea best and an IBC container full of old oil . Yorkshire water used to use a flocking agent to clean the water but that would be far too costly for this application . Polyester mat would work well they use it for pond filters and I use it vacuum bagging carbon fibre car parts . Hydraulic pumps use stainless filters and can be cleaned not sure how many microns they go down to . Once again thanks for your advice and input 👍👍
@@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 totally on a different subject . You do see a lot of rocket burners what I can’t work out is if they burn too hot and too quick then they are not that efficient due to heat loss through the flue . If you used the charcoal manufacturing method by using wood on a slow controlled burn and restrict oxygen flow then you get a long slow burn from the wood and then charcoal as a by product to burn a second time . May work dunno , got too many projects to experiment.
Using a washing machine as a centrifuge is a great idea.
Hi Guys this method works.
The ratio I use is 1½ Gallons of kerosene to 5 gallons of filtered used cooking oil.
Thanks for the shortcut to making Biodiesel!
Good job 👍
Will it work in a modern Peugeot partner van 😃... I'm bloody tempted to try
@@jigsey. Common rail (HDi)? unlikely without problems
@@kathrynwhitby9799 😭 boooo oh well hopefully the price will come down
@@jigsey.
From what was said, regular diesel was mixed 50/50 with the results of this recipe for biodiesel with no harm.
That said, this particular recipe is one step short of making diesel that would work perfectly. But the recipe used in the video does appear to make for a much easier/faster removal of glycerin or glycerols.
@@jigsey. lol I'm in a Partner as well and thinking of doing this as well 50/50 mix...why don't you try it first and let me know.
Make a mantle from your previous video and put it on the same stove, the top of the mantle I used a cat food can. Cut side out of a popcorn tin as heat reflector. Never tried the biodiesel except for the 1:1 diesel/cornola oil. Cornola oil has more fats so I will try this method so it's not so rough on the wicks. Your videos are well appreciated, thank you
Be interesting to see how it performs per ratio of paraffin in one of the chinese diesel heaters.
From the videos I've seen, those things would probably run fine on just the cleaned vegetable oil!
fantastic way to re use something that is becoming more expensive. thankyou.
Well maybe agar agar might just do the same thing . I did have a mate years ago who filter his used veg oil through a bucket of sawdust with a hole at the bottom and he just used 30% diesel and would put it in his old Toyota van . He never had a problem and said it come out of the filter good enough to do that so maybe only modern engines need extra treatment .
my fav mad scientist, I will still remember you wence your vaporized for revealing so many secrets. Thank you sir!
Thanks for the gelatin trick, just so you know, in North America, we call paraffin oil, "kerosene", it's pretty expensive here lately, about $7 per gallon (3.89L).
You can try it with diesel
Important distinction for viewers in The States.
I have paraffin oil and kerosene. The kerosene smokes and smells and the paraffin doesn't.
Do you realise that $7 per us gallon is a but bellow the price that Robert paid and probably wages are higher in the USA?
5 gallons of Kerosene cost $49.99 dollars at Tractor Supply.
Best Video for how to heat anything for Cheapest Thanks!
I had a snigger in one of your recent films where you mentioned making biodiesel in 1784 ……..seeing as a lot of people on the internet loose all common sense I instantly started sniggering thinking of someone getting it wrong and thinking you meant the year 1784 😂😂😂
Same process for clearing and polishing beer.
Use finings or gelatine to clear the product.
Think I've just found a cheaper fuel than red diesel for my old Case International and nasty Chinese diesel heater 🙂 Thankyou 👍
Thanks 👍. I've been collecting pur wate oil for a while. Now I can put it to goos use!
do you think the gelatin idea could be used to get stuff to drop out of Used Motor Oil?
Exactly what I came here to ask too!
Thanks in general for all your interesting videos but in particular for using the word toot. I haven't heard it for decades and it reminds me of my youth and long gone grandparents. Good luck further tinkering and a Merry Christmas.
This is brilliant!! Thank you for sharing!!
I KNEW IT
I always can count on my nose on what smells exactly what
Some vehicles here had the smell of candle when they exhaust their fumes, and that's what the paraffin is for like in this video
It seems they are making a hack biodiesel but in exchange for making their vehicle have 'smoke belching'
now I can confirm my sense of smell is actually great
you should try isopropanol + vegoil, thats what i mix up as BBQ lighter when oil goes off. maybe that will work as well as kerosene? tiny bit cheaper.
I wouldn't. have though they would mix very well - cheers
@@ThinkingandTinkering the alc becomes super saturated , it is miscible but may seperat over time idk, worth a try though
amazing. with car fuel the viscosity of the fuel is important.. if the oil is too gloopy it will stick in the fuel pipes on a cold day (over time) and be hard to start. I'm guessing the parrafin mixture with help thin it out.
I’d love to see you do a video about biogas made with a biogas digester. Super cool gas from waste products.
Thanks mate… very interesting as all your videos are…. Although your other method takes more effort, having tried both I think the other method makes a far better brew. It’s cleaner, feels and looks like a closer viscosity to regular pump diesel. Great to see other ways that work tho. Cheers
This is a kick ass oil cleaning Idea. Though I think the paraffin/Oil thing could be good in a bind it is kinda expensive in comparison to biodiesels.
Nice to see your enthusiasm and good mood, keep up the good work
If you make an oil jet heater, you really just need to run it through a screen to take out the biggest chunks so they don’t clog the jet. And that collection of chunks can be thrown into the fire separately. No loss at all.
Any video link of the oil jet heater pls share
That sounds fun, any videos to watch
@@ricardo-iw9sq see above, or just search TH-cam for oil jet burners
are you mixing with the paraffin?
@@marilynreno7510 not necessarily, but generally you do need something to get it started. That can be wood, charcoal, paper, blowtorch, propane jet, etc. Just anything that heats up the furnace enough to maintain combustion
I got myself a crank hot oil press from Vevor this Xmas which I've yet to use. I'm planning on pressing from peanuts and the like, maybe even trying from freely foraged seeds in the spring and summer. This is a great method to quickly purify oil to make biodiesel, great stuff. Love your channel ☺️
What country are you from if you don't mind? I ask because I'm from the USA and heating doesn't seem to be an issue to do such things anywhere in the US.
Does it ever separate?
There's a big difference between a burner and an engine. I'd like to see this tested in a generator.
Mythbusters did it.
I run it throw a J Clough now as for adding paraffin if you get a pull by VOSA if you have waste oil in your tank not a problem but paraffin is a problem . i have done this since the 1980s mostly in Mercedes last couple of years in a 300tdi
That's fantastic! I looked into making biodiesel several years ago but was slightly put off by the method of making it (Ethanol and caustic soda was the original "recipe"), but this seems much simpler. (And seemingly less risk of damage to fuel pipes that the ethanol could do (Like the trouble people are having with E10 petrol at the moment))
It makes me wonder how a Toyota diesel engine would run with it? I've been adding a touch of SVA (Straight Vegetable Oil) to the fuel tank in my truck and the engine seems to perform better with it.
Should run fine, may need preheating in colder climate. People run similar mixes like "black diesel" which is a mixture of filtered used motor/hydraulic oil and petrol.
once methanol, lye, and oil mix, it creates a chemical reaction that changes the composition of the elements. its not similar to actually putting ethanol or methanol in your diesel engine
cheers mate cheers mate - but I was thinking of this as more of heating fuel
@@SteveEh I used to have a Toyota Estima that I would run on a 30/70 SVA/diesel mix and the engine would start effortlessly and would rev a lot more freely. As for temperatures it's worth investigating. Mind you, when I was on a biodiesel discussion forum many years ago a member from Canada said that he would run his pickup (He never mentioned what make or model) on a 50/50 mix right through the Canadian winters with no problem.
@@TheCyberSalvager I ran pure rapeseed and diesel 50/50 all year in a peugeot 1900 turbo no problems for a year or so.
I've driven about 180,000 miles on WVO. Firstly, its not without issues, so problem solving is a must. Secondly, it is better in an engine with indirect injection. This means an older - more inefficient engine that uses a Pinto style injector - (larger nozzles). The oil must still be pre-heated before going to the injector pump - so start up / shut down was always on ordinary diesel. I think that the same would apply to your mix of veg and paraffin. Technically you would also need to pay duty on the parafin as it isn't taxed for road fuel. HMRC provide an exemption for alternative non fossil fuels allowing up to 2500 litres usage per year duty free. Use more than that and you pay duty tax on the lot! I used a centrifuge to clean the oil - it was very simple - pour the WVO into a drum through a fabric sieve (net curtain), draw the wvo from 6" off the bottom through a small gear pump (10L hr) into the centrifuge, where it then drops into a 40gal drum. I would change the filter and the bottom of the collection drum after six months, but my oil was always good quality. The centrifuge and gear pump operated on a timer - up to 2 hours so allowing me to prevent running the gear pump dry or overfilling the oil drum. A heating oil pump linked to a hose with a trigger nozzle allowed me to fill the car at the flick of a switch. When the tank filled, you could hear it gurgle, enabling you to stop before overflowing.
Good interesting video. Some points: it's not biodiesel, which is fatty acid methyl ester, whereas veg oil is triglyceride. Both biodiesel and especially the paraffin thinned oil will clog almost all diesel particulate filters. Many people who run on biodiesel have their DPF's (illegally) removed. As for the Peugeot 206, the Pug/Citroen DPF FAP system is more tolerant of biodiesel. If it's an old 206 it might not have a dpf, but there's a danger of ring gumming. Personally, if I were running on thinned veg oil I'd add petrol, not paraffin.
From what I've read it works well but I've always wondered basically about pinging because the gas ignited early?
cheers mate cheers mate - but I was thinking of this as more of heating fuel
@@ThinkingandTinkering Yes, you wouldn't add petrol to an oil lamp 😄💥
@@patrickday4206 Petrol can't pre ignite in a diesel engine, there's no spark, so not pinging (pinking). If you use too much petrol or in very hot weather (which we rarely get in the UK) it's possible to have vapour lock. I ran a Suzuki Vitara (indirect engine, note) for years on oil thinned with 10% petrol with no issues.
@@billguyan1913 your telling me that the heat from the pressure inside the cylinder won't ignite the gas? And possibly cause some ping? Do petrol and diesel ignite at the same pressure? Deisels are built stronger to withstand higher pressures but it could add up if the gas was igniting early?
All of the used oils and hydraulic fluids I collect at home I catch as clean as possible in a catch can I keep sealed in double trash bags. When full, I pour the 15 qts into 5-qt oil jugs I save from new oil/fluid changes. I let the jugs sit for at least 90 days and then slowly pour off the top 4 quarts. The last quart has the settled solids or contamination in it.
I mix 3 gal of the clean used oil with gasoline nearly 1:1 in 5 gallon fuel cans and shake for 1 minute, and put two 5-gallons cans into a 3/4 full tank of diesel. My 2005 Ram diesel has a 40 gallon tank. This makes a mix of about 15% used oils. It seems to run fine Winter and Summer. I do change my fuel filter a little sooner than typical, about every 10,000 miles, rather than 15,000.
The dirty oil left in each jug i combine again and let settle another 90 days and repeat. The 2nd time I pour off the top and use the remainder as chain-lube and make two-cycle fuel for my chainsaw, and some start my wood boiler at night.
It's a cheap and easy way to get rid of collected fluids, have a little free fuel, and not waste anything either.
The inventor Rudolf Diesel, used Peanut Oil in his first engine.
Cool... because NOTHING has changed since then.
There is someone on YT that filters his WVO down to 10 microns with just a filtering cloth sack and then cuts the oil with kerosene or red diesel, he was using the red diesel mix in an off grid generator and the kerosene mix in his diesel pickup. He made the point that you did not have to deal with getting rid of the glycerin and adding the two different solvents made the WVO thinner in viscosity so as to not damage the injectors and make sure the injectors atomized the fuel properly for a clean burn.
That's an interesting process Rob. I imagine the gelatine acts as a flocculant to remove the impurities from the waste oil? I'm betting polyacrylamide gel will also work and would also react well with the glycerine - possibly without the need to add paraffin.
Let me know if you want me to send you some polyacrylamide gel for testing purposes.
@user-nk2uh8uh4z Could you use diesel instead of paraffin then?
@@24revealer good question.. so lets say.. you fill up the tank with diesel but leave enough room for WVO to be mixed in "good" ratio.. and what about new vegetable oil(last time I checked it was much cheaper then diesel ), could this go straight in the tank to be mixed with diesel?! it would (if works) be much easier for people who dont have a time etc and you still could save some money .. any Idea?!
@@ImhotepBE in wales that was called boyio diesel, police were stopping customers at a local grocery store who were buying up vegatable oil for that very purpose. It's not illegal as long as you declare it and pay the tax levy on fuel.
@@livesportsvideo if I remember correctly, we are allowed to make/use up to 1000L a year of bio-diesel without paying any tax- I'm not sure if is still the same, it was few years ago...I knew somebody who spent over 20 or 30k £ for bio-diesel set-up..it was years ago..he said that at the beginning it was very good business, until government decided to "help" , as always 😂
Will the gel work and pyrolytic oils distilled from waste motor oil?
I used to run my old land rover 90 TD (and later TDi) on WVO diesel 50/50 mix - it smelled lovely! (But if you reversed anywhere, the cab would fill with the smell of cooking chips, so you’d have to stop and buy some) - but I do remember being told at the time that if you put anything like parrafin, heating oil, meths, thinners etc in the tank (or anything really other than duty-paid diesel, with the permissible WVO) to thin the WVO, HMRC didn’t like it and would take the car and crush it. There is a limit with WVO of something like 6000L a year before they worry but they don’t like people adding non-road duty paid fossil fuels in.
cheers mate cheers mate - but I was thinking of this as more of heating fuel
Will it work in a diesel heater?
My question as well, some of those Chinese heaters are a bit finicky.
Ah 1793 video shows the Diesel heater thanks Rob 👍👍
A fun experiment might be to try a capillary action filtration. Dirty oil up higher, a wick in that container over the side to a lower container to catch the clean oil.
I wonder if a centrifuge would work
@@simongross3122 There's a guy on youtube that does that exact thing. He also made a redneck centrifuge.
@@methanial73 Now you know I'm going to have to look up redneck centrifuge. I wonder if it's a device for separating rednecks from other people by spinning them on a merry-go-round :)
@@methanial73 Link please? See my post above.
Thank You, for all of your shared knowledge, and your time spent doing all of those marvelous things you do.
cheers mate
I think that stove could benefit from a mesh mantel.
This is what I thought 😁
That's pretty cool! I wonder if you could do it to used motor oil to "clean" it
Up next: How to make your own paraffin in the bath using old sweet wrappers and bin juice!
Excellent stuff!
I suspect that bath o'bin juice + yeast = alcohol and plastic sweet wrappers in a gasifier would produce fuel
Nice way to clean the oil thanks Robert. Worked with my old VW Sharan which was a direct injection engine 1.9 diesel. Tryed it on a common rail Diesel engine it did not like it the torences of the the injectors are too fine. You also get a chip shop smell everywhere you go from the exhaust. The energy value is lower than diesel so expect lower MPG.
cheers mate cheers mate - but I was thinking of this as more of heating fuel
ROB IVE GOT ONE AND WAS GOING TO TELL YOU ABOUT IT THEY ARE BRILLIANT BUT I FIND THE WICKS BURN OUT EASY SO I LOOKED UP ROPE SUPPLYS AND GOT SOME BRAIDED 6MM COTTON ROPE AND FOUND IT TO LAST A LOT LONGER BUT THAT PATENT WITH THE GELATINE IS EASY DONT KNOW HOW YOU COME UP WITH ALL THESE THINGS I THINK YOU ARE AMAZING AND WATCH AND LIKE ALL YOUR VIDEOS
I have run my old renault on cooking oil straight out of the bottle, the reason i don't at the moment is it's actually more expensive that diesel. I used to work near a cafe and get waste oil for free I would just run it through a couple of filters and bung it straight in, I had on old Astra then. I'm not to certain about running it in the modern "Common Rail" stuff though. It will never be a problem with me as I won't be dictated to by an ECU so always have an old banger.
How about showing people how to save money on electricity use like using cold outside air as a refrigerator or dryer exhaust to heat your home instead of exhausting it.
ok
Robert I love your Channel thank you for posting just a thought I found a guy online who's using a sand battery that he mixes carbon in with the sand makes the battery conductive and uses resistance running through the sand. Just thought I'd share I look forward to your videos everyday. Sending greetings from New York State
@soaely I don't think he means to use the dryer needlessly, but rather to recapture the expended heat.
5 Gallon bucket. Drill 3/4" holes in perimeter of lid around edge. Cut hole in center and attach a *METAL* dryer hose flange with rivets. I already tried 3D printing in PET-G...worked for awhile but deformed due to higher heat than expected!!! Would have to 3D print in ABS but my 3D printer won't print that high of a temperature and I don't have an exhaust system setup. Once the lid is completed, fill bucket about 1/3rd full of water which helps to trap any lint that gets past your dryer lint filter. This device does two things. It reclaims the heat back in to your dwelling and it supplements your dry winter air with humidified air thus dramatically reducing respiratory issues!!! This setup will put out ALOT of humidity QUICKLY!!! You'll want to use a circulation fan to disperse the humidity to other areas of your home!!! Here where I live in Mississippi, it's ridiculously humid in the summer--gotta use an air conditioner constantly!!!...and in the winter it's crazy dry!!! I can run the central gas furnace but it doesn't get "comfortable" until I use my "swamp cooler" (evaporative cooler) to entrain moisture into the dry air. Only then does it become "comfortable"!!! I try to maintain humidity between 50-60%...anything less is uncomfortable and allows for static electricity!!! Can't allow that as I have various sensitive electronic devices around the house!!!
how about not running damp dryer exhaust air into the house? You could build a heat exchanger to take some of the heat out of it, but is it worth the faff? Better to dry clothes outside even if you have to build a little roof over your line.
20 plus years ago in California we had people that had dual tank diesel Box trucks they would run diesel in one tank and fryer oil in the other. When they had to pull into inspection area they would switch over to diesel prior to pulling in As the highway patrol would sniff and if it smelt like a McDonald's you could be in trouble. Love your channel happy New Year's coming at you from the mountains of Southern Oregon
Lie. They dip the tanks. All of them, and it was all 50 states. They still do it today. In summary don't lie thinking you will be cool.
@@Look_What_I_Did The bobtail trucks were running AV equipment from northern California to Nevada. The fryer oil was not dyed with any sort of coloring and they did do this. Back in those days most people did not even know that diesels Could even run on other than diesel fuel. Years ago the islanders in popua New Guinea with their fuel diesel cut off they resorted and it worked using coconut oil in their little diesel pickups. Me thinks that the video about the islanders was the Coconut Revolution. Blessings to you and yours and happy New Year's
The easiest method to filtering waste cooking oil is pour it through denim in a sink strainer spread over a 55 gallon barrel. Let the oil sit for a week to 10 days. Gravity drops solids to the bottom of the barrel and good oil rises to the top. I did this for years.
Leave to stand at ambient for alap then decant off the top. I dealt with 2000l a day in a bio business
nice - cheers
WOW, YOU JUST SAVED ME A TON !!! THANK YOU 🙏
Great stuff just exactly what my greenhouse needs.
nice
That cup is so cool had one years back
I might have to give this a go. I have about a gallon of used veggie/peanut oil. Thanks for the money saving idea
It's fine for heat... not for engines...
Dr. Smith. I read an interesting Article some time ago about a farmer who developed a biodiesel formula that was very interesting.
He mixed SVO with gasoline at 80% SVO and 20% gasoline by volume ( he later went lower on the gasoline for a 'summer blend'). He found this blend by testing hundreds of additives on an injector test bench.
He claimed the final product had more energy density than diesel, and better performance all round.
I'd be curious if it works better then paraffin. :-)
I used waste veg oil for a few years in an old Toyota Landcruiser. Just had to cold filter it (you need a spare 24 hrs) and use a glow plug heater I made to preheat it after it came out of the tank. Started and stopped on diesel to clean the system.
Wirklich beeindruckend wäre es nun mit dem selbstgemachten Biodiesel noch legal Autofahren zu dürfen.
This is very interesting. I ran my MB 300D on veggi oil for about 100K miles. Personally I wouldn't do it this way because for automotive use as the added cost and complexity of adding the gelatin, water (a HUGE no-no in my mind as water is the enemy) and the time to allow it to settle isn't worth it But regardless, this is cool. I'd like to see you do the "crackle test", i.e., put the finished product in a pan that's heated to 350ºF. If it crackles the fuel is to wet for automotive use. The water will destroy the pump.
I love your videos, terribly interesting and you're entertaining to watch without even trying!
cheers mate cheers mate - but I was thinking of this as more of heating fuel
I got oil that was filtered and spun but still gross slimy. I have lye but no methanol. Someone mentioned to heat it up water and gelatin. They must have watched your video!!! I'm going to try this asap.
cheers mate
I saw a video where waste oil was put in a jug with a bottom drain. Looked like an upside down water cooler jug. It was outside in the sun. It was 3/4 full of oil, then topped up with water and stirred. Next morning most of the crud settled to the bottom and was drained out, then more water was added. After 3 washings the oil looked quite clean.
Here in Canada we call that SVO. To burn in most diesel engines people make SVO87...adding 13% gasoline makes good fuel until it goes below zero. Then you must pre-heat the fuel or it gels.
I find your videos interesting but I doubt if I could find some of the materials you use. I've never seen bags of gelatin or jugs of paraffin. Or carbon cloth that you used in another video. Maybe advise what kind of suppliers deal in these special items. Thanks for what you do!
Thanks Robert 👍👍👍
glad you liked it mate
I've been collecting oil and will make bio diesel, just have a couple questions;
1- does it have to be pork gelatine or can beef gelatine be used?
2- in an always warm climate ~15-25°c is parafin / kerosene required?
3- can regular diesel be used instead of parafin?
TIA
I've never heard the phrase _"for [some amount] you can't fall off"_ before - I've always heard _"you can't go wrong",_ but I think I like yours better.
You can use it without adding the paraffin if your diesel si not direct injected, and does not have a rotary pump. Old 60 series 2H landcruisers will generally run fine on straight cooking oil as long as it's not too cold. In the tropics it's fine.