Nikodem Bartnik awesome can I ask I still want to no how to program the board for the cnc which I am going to try and build there’s a lot about the build but not much about the actual board and what to do with it
Nik you should work on a hotgun injector first to generate enough pressure, or you can use a similar design of the extruders designer for home made 3d printer filaments
i think the reason you had succsess this time is the traveldistance inside. Its pretty short so the hotglue stays hot long enough until it reaches the exit.
You need a evenly distributed temperature in the mold. To achieve that prepare a water bath around 60-70 C° (hot, *not boiling*) where you warm up the mold. Then quickly inject the hot glue. Don't use the bear vice it sucks the energy right out the mold. Make some wood jaws to retain the heat. You can use the water bath afterwards to split the mold and release the part.
I had the same problem while making bullet pens, the glue would solidify upon contact with the cold brass. The solution was a heat gun. I warmed up the brass first, placed the hot glue, then used a spray bottle to cool it off. It worked great. Love your videos.
Man, so many people/videos say you can't mill aluminum with a wooden cnc machine. But you are proving them wrong with a plastic and dremill cnc! Good job!!
:-D That was the first thing I was thinking when I saw the video. How in the world are you milling aluminum with such a machine!!! Awesome to see in any case!
We were here we saw your failed trial run of your injection molding project for your logo, you fail you get up and you rethink this and try, try again. We see you did it this time, the soft washers are great to see. Thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
@Nikodem Bartnik I do not see failed experiments, I see a curious mind of a bright young man. Your workshop is littered with ideas, your vacuum cleaner, tool organizer, workshop layout.
Try using silicone. The large tube with a silicone gun. The silicone won't solidify as quickly, giving you more time to squirt it in, but you will have to allow more drying time before opening the mold. Great job and effort so far.
And use white mineral oil as a mold release. I spray it with a regular trigger sprayer. I need to get a quiet air compressor and make my own aerosol cans
Without an additive the silicone will never cure in the center. I don't know about cornstarch, which was suggested above, but I do know the professional use vegetable glycerine as a curing accelerator for silicone parts or molds with a large cross sectional volume.
I don't have any suggestions to offer, but I love your persistence, Nikodem! I'm sure you'll come up with a solution and I anxiously await seeing what you show us next!
I would like to do this, that would be great for recycling failed prints. Firstly I need to build a DIY manual Injection machine and then a small shredder
Using wood as an insulator, try using the tip of the hot glue gun to heat the mold before you start injecting the glue/polymer. I like this idea and would love to see your future improvements. The initial time to make the mold is longer than just 3D printing washers/gromets/etc with a flexible filament, but then you can crank out hundreds pretty quickly. Don't get too discouraged, I think you are on the right path and I think a warm mold, perhaps with a release agent, will help. I don't recall how long you waited before attempting to demold your hot injection attempt from the last video, but maybe waiting until everything has cooled to room temp or lower will help out with the demolding.
Every time i see these peltiers lying around, which i brought some years ago for something else that failed terribly thinking that i could make some ice cubes. i was really sad that it was of no use cuz i could not dissipate the heat. Now a perfect use for my peltiers. Thx for the video sub'ed.
You have one choice left: 1) You've got to find a pump without any leaks as you noticed 2) you use a glue with the point of fusion low enough to guarantee that the hot glue will remain liquid during a relatively long time (the time it fills your cast completely without any additional force). The problem with the glues you used is their high viscosity. Don't fear to use other materials that are more liquid when heated (some polymers), not necessarily glues. Google or get help from a good chemist in forums that don't deal with 3D printing nor filaments ;) I'm glad that your CNC becomes the basis of a lot of interesting projects like this one.
put the molds in the oven first or just use tpu instead of glue. you have a 3d printer I see by your cnc. You can use the same setup as a 3d printer extruder+heat nozzle+hot mold. Very nice little dust collector you made btw.
Hey Nikoderm! I have run into this problem before. You can solve it with this tips. Distribute heat alongise the metal mold. You will have to have it hot in a temperature that continues melting the silicone along the way while its pushed. The second tip is get something with more power. There are some glue guns that work like a plastic injected machine!
You could try to insulate the aluminum mold to reduce the heat transfer. I would also suggest heating the hot glue up more, it will make it less viscous and flow easier through the mold. Also, depending on your goal you could inject different materials into the molds and see the results. Silicon air dries but it takes longer. Or try other components that wont harden until heated, so you could inject then bake the mold. You could make a parent mold that smaller molds fit into. The parent mold would insulate the smaller mold and you could clamp it it down in the vise providing a much sturdier clamping surface.
You should consider making a shroud for the Dremel and putting the exhaust hose onto it. That may help with collecting your metal filings as there's not much room for them to move to
Hot glue is just never going to work the way you want, it loses heat and solidifies too quickly. It's also not viscous enough to spread quickly. You need something that's a thinner material that flows faster/easier and cools/dries slower. Still, good experiment and good info on the milling bit. It might be good if you (and/or the community) put together a table of material --> spindle speed / movement speed / bit combinations that are known to work. It would be helpful to those of us doing CNC for the first time with this setup. I'm working on a dust/vac shoe for the original design that will help with capturing the shavings/dust and get them into the vac - will share once I get it done... Plan is to also make it 3D printed and a simple add-on to your current Z-axis setup. I'm just torn on whether to make it fixed height or have it move up/down with the Z. I'm nowhere near as good at CAD as you (I use TinkerCAD as Fusion360 has me totally stumped and every time I sit down to learn it I don't get very far and have to then not touch it for several months and forget everything I learned...)
I believe hot glue isn't the best choice. Maybe try some epoxy? But in this case, you definitely have to use a release agent. But in general, great work.
1. I think, with such technology and matreials you need to inject the glue in the center of the model 2. I saw your experiments with heating the mold, thats why I have a question: it is better use compound (liquid plastic) like Unicast, isn't it? No heating, no need in preasure. 3. Preasure! If you want to make things from hot glue you need more preasure without extra heating 4. And there is one more idea: put the material (glue or plastic granulat) to the mold, heat it. But! Make some holes before it, where air and extra material could "go away". I really like you videos and hope that you will success!
Should try a mould release. Most are just white mineral oil in an aerosol can. One it lubricates the part and also helps with heat transfer. Easy down and dirty way is dip the 2 parts in mineral oil. Put them together. Aim a heat gun on the coldest end of the mould. Using a temperature sensor of some sort. Heat up to 10 degrees less than melting point and than inject the glue. Or can try capillary action. And set the temp of the mould to 10degrees higher than the glue gun. But you might have bubbles. So you would have to inject from bottom going up.
Seems your M5 washer mold is the maximum surface area a non heated injection will take because the plastic stops dead just at the exit. So you either stick to comparable surface areas or try the heating and release agent approach.
Keep a heatgun turned on and aimed at the mold so you can keep the aluminum to a certain tempature then pull it off as your injecting it so both cool down and give you time to inject it fully.
Hi! To no spend time doing the pins, in each side you could make only holes, then use rods o a piece of steel nail. Then you dont have to wait for milling the entire surface to make those pins.
I do have one idea, if you heat up the mould and keep it at around 60º it should work, you could make a peltier based heater, to remove the part (because it's glue) try tapping gently with a rubber hammer on the juctions all around the part, and evenly!
heat the mold with a heat gun, and when done, drop the whole mold in isopropyl alcohol. the alcohol shrinks the hot glue and debonds it from most smooth surfaces, like your mold. also, draft your registration pins. they don't need to grab each other, just need to hold alignment, so make them cone shaped instead of cylinders.
You should preheat the mold to get more product from the bigger mold, it is a recommendation for the 2nd mold sample to run. Congratulations nice and useful video
Imagine how good your stuff would be if you looked into how moulds get made commercially, got some screw injection, had a sprue where the hot material didn't have to turn corners? Imagine the possibilities. I could see this being great for silicone washers, maybe some polyurethane?
Injecting from the middle of the mold was a good idea, you could use a thermal plate to rapidly heat and cool the mold. The other thing is having lots of little holes in the mold so that you are not fighting air pressure, even better if you can create a negative pressure to pull the glue in into a vacuum.
Try using pewters metal, it’s a low temperature melting alloy , who’s liquodous temperature is lower than the aluminum mold. It’s viscous properties will allow it to flow into the mold vs your hot glue that can’t retain its heat due to thermal mismatch.
Hi, Maybe you could tear apart a water boiler and use it to make a vise that holds your mold in boiling water. Then the mold is hot while you inject the glue into it. Adding salt in the water even lets you raise the temperature to about 120C
I like the idea of using PLA leftovers. I also thought that maybe you could try a Jewelery Mold Vulcanizer unit to heat up the aluminum mold and using a hot end and extruder set up to inject the plastic into the mold, possibly with heat throat extension instead of a nozzle into a thread mold fill port and leaving very small relief vents at the end of each path in the mold so the mold will fill completely. Mold could be sprayed/dipped/coated in a thin layer of MagiGoo, 3dGloop or some other release agent. Just an idea, would love to see someone experiment with the implementation.
first of all i suggest you make holes on your molds so that you can screw the two parts together because as you can see at 9:44 every time you insert the hot glue gun tip the mold flexes, also you can keep the mold inside boiling water to preheat them and remove before injecting, lastly you should use a release agent to help the hot glue slide inside the mold to the outer parts !
hey niko, if you fabricate the mold, drill the injection port later with the drill and countersink it so the nozzle of the hot glue gun fits perfectly, that way you dont lose plastic and you can build more pressure!
Cześć, sporo eksperymentowałem z formami wtryskowymi i po dłuższych eksperymentach mogę powiedzieć Ci, że zdecydowanie gęstość materiału jest za wysoka (należy podwyższyć temperaturę na pistolecie). Koniecznie musisz też podgrzewać formę do najmniej temperatury upłynnienia materiału - dla kleju tego typu to około 80-130C i w tym zakresie radziłbym się trzymać. Małe formy można szybko podgrzać korzystając np z ogniw peltiera, gdzie na okres wtrysku aluminiowa forma posłuży jako radiator. Samo ogniwo peltiera to tana alternatywa dla grzałek, za modłu 40W zapłacisz 15 zł. Warto tylko zainstalować jakiś termostat jako zabezpieczenie, bo gorąca strona peltiera nie może wejść ponad 200c. Efektem ubocznym jest schładzanie drugiej strony ogniwa peltiera ;)
Great job so far , a suggestion if i may , aluminium disipates heat 4x faster than carbon steel ,all the molds that i have been involved with used a heating function and kept at temp before injection happens . Good luck .
You have 3 ways to fill that mould 1 heat up the mould to delay the hardening of the glue 2 inject from 2 or 3 pointsto fill up the mould... You might have weld lines if you do not inject in the same time 3 somehow increase the injecting speed and presure
What about using a small vacuum pump with very low suction to help draw the hot glue in? Squeeze the glue while the vacuum is sucking from the other end of the part mold.
I think it might be interesting to use a caulking gun and some silicone. If you modeled the nozzle of the caulk gun (or even the glue gun) you could get a seal at the injection point of the mould and get much higher pressure, enabling larger casts. Using a caulking gun would enable you to produce silicone washers, much more useful as they'll handle temperatures above ambient. It might also be fun to try to produce grommets and other vibration isolation mounts. Gives me some ideas! Thanks for the video!
Very Nice results there. There was some air pockets though overall structurally sound. For that challenge you face, you can try adding some heater cores to a block or blocks positioned around the mold. I have piles of those heater cores/coils of different shapes and diameters, other line production automation components, from a volvo truck plant that was closing type auction. Normally these are stupidly expensive, though auctions can and do change the rules to that. Some are intended to be self clamping on pipes that feed the material. If the glue gun was a inline setup with a adaptive coupling rather than with the nozzle, even flow rate and without much loss of material per molded part. I want to try making some molds soon too, and a vacuum forming table, and even to make types of filaments and thermal formed sheets from recycled material to use for the vacuum forming.
Thermo dynamics are your worst enemy when it comes to injection moulding, you have to have enough stored heat in the mould to allow the substance to remain viscous until it fully fills the mould, then for it to harden and cure before it release. Release spray will help a lot with the filling of the mould too allowing the liquid inside to slide through the mould with less friction and contact to the faces of the mould.
I would say something like an under floor heating pad the electric type will help with the second injection mould. As you say the glue is cooling to rapid so the heat pads can evenly heat the mould then inject.
Could you use the extruder from the 3D printer to fill the mould? You could make an injection stand, with one stepper motor, a hot end, and then you could replace the 0.4 nozzle with a cnc part. You could make a frame and vice part of the stand so you put your mould inside, clamp it up and then extrude pla, petg, flex, whichever
If your 3D printer hase a heatbed, you can use that to pre-heat the mold. When the mold is “hot”, position your extruder at the fill part of the mold a pump it full of plastic wit your extruder. I think I have seen this done before
I don't know if you changed it on the second mold but I think that the hole where you put the hot glue gun for the injection should match the head of the gun. On the first one it was some sort of a square and the glue leaked, this means you are loosing pressure. Ps: Very nice to see you finally having a successful mold!
Isopropanol is able to creep under hot glue and it can disconnect the bond between glue and surface. Maybe that helps when releasing the part from a mold that was preheated before
I don't understand at all the worry about heating an aluminum mold? i would try heating it with a hair drier or small torch or even a candle. The soot from a candle could even be a good help in release. You don't need to heat the mold to glue melting temp just enough that the aluminum won't suck the heat from the glue enough to chill it quickly.
when you use hotglue on cold metal it won't really stick. and you can get nice imprints off of it. when you use hotglue on warm metal it will bond so strong to it that you bend the mold trying to get it off and ofcourse tear the hotglue into pieces
darkracer125 i don’t think the glue was the issue in his first attempt. There may not have been enough clearance for the “pins” and they cooled into a slight press fit which made the mold difficult to separate. I didn’t run any numbers or measure his pins, but that’s my educated guess anyway.
It's a great idea to prototype your molds this way. Congrats on your washer maker. Also, you were smart to move the injection location into the middle of the zip-tie mold. Maybe you can consider using two injection locations and two hot glue guns simultaneously to get the delivery fast enough. Of course with your abilities, I can see you designing a simple injection machine to replace to glue guns as you progress on the learning curve. :-) Keep up the great work!
Where i dont think hot glue m5 washers have much value, this was an amazing proof of concept! Im going to subscribe to make sure i see what else you make!
Why don't you make a custom 3d printer extruder open the nozzle with drill bit. Or you could use a female to female brass barrel to feed your mould. CNC your threads on the block. What do you think?
I think your smiley face mold will work if you make the injection port on the largest side between your NB initials and have your air escape ports around the perimeter of the mold.
I was going to suggest a protective smartphone case as a next injection mold project Maybe there is an optimal temperature to warm the mold without the silicon sticking too much
For the centering system is better to place the hardened standard pin and ring. The adjustment of nozzle is bad, in High pressure injection is very important tris adjustment.
Hi Nikodem - Not all hot glue guns reach the same temperature, the ones we have in our school are cool running which is about half the temperature of the professional glue guns. I think yours is this type so see if you can borrow a different gun. Good luck and keep trying.
Great first results! Hey, as far as I know, there are two types of hot glue. Low temp glue melts about 120 C and high temp glue melts more like 200 C. Since you said you are using a cheap glue, I'm assuming it uses the low temp glue. Maybe look into a high temp glue gun?
At what temperature does hotglue melt? You heated it up last time, but nearly enough, you have to at least to glass transition temp. And you said no release agent was needed, but with the heated mold (which was a step in the right direction, but it was not nearly hot enough) you got your hotglue stuck. So you do need it when doing it properly.
Great project. I agree that you should try a better quality hot glue gun and create a better seal with the tip and the mold. A better glue gun may heat the glue even more creating better flow.
I don't think a zip tie is the best idea for your setup. You'll want as little surface area as possible so that hot glue has a passage within the skin that forms, so I'd suggest you increase the thickness of your part. I don't understand your aversion to heating up the mold with a heat gun and mold release, but you should try and get a mirror finish to make it as slippery as possible and have the thickness as uniform as possible. It would also help if you could find a way to suck the glue in from the vent while you inject it. If you still have problems de-molding your part you should try and put it in a freezer to make the Al shrink and stiffen up the part.
Have you tried just a hot water bath? Or a toaster oven on low? When casting aluminum, I don't have to heat my mold to the melting point of aluminum, but anywhere close keeps the aluminum from losing so much heat to the mold. Even a hair dryer pointed at your vise could probably get you the extra BTU's you need to make the plastic flow to the end of the mold.
And polish the mold... Make sure there's no undercut or rough vertical surface for the hot glue to grab so it can peel out easily instead of gluing itself to the part.
Commercial iniection molders often throw away the parts from first cycles of the mold, same as lead casting. You have to warm up the mold, no question.
Good hot glue guns aren’t that expensive and seeing how much you use yours on the channel, you might want to consider one of these “investments” Great video, I bet the molded glue could be used as gaskets.
Check out first part of my experiments with DIY injection molding: th-cam.com/video/CZSxT8IBIJc/w-d-xo.html
Nikodem Bartnik awesome can I ask I still want to no how to program the board for the cnc which I am going to try and build there’s a lot about the build but not much about the actual board and what to do with it
Nik you should work on a hotgun injector first to generate enough pressure, or you can use a similar design of the extruders designer for home made 3d printer filaments
I think the issue with the big mould is that the glue is drying before it gets to the bottom of the mould. Try heating it up maybe??
i think the reason you had succsess this time is the traveldistance inside. Its pretty short so the hotglue stays hot long enough until it reaches the exit.
Thanks for your reply. See you have really tried everything at your disposal. What about using a heater element like the one in your printer hotend?
The release agent isn't just for release at the end it also lubricates as you are injecting.
You need a evenly distributed temperature in the mold.
To achieve that prepare a water bath around 60-70 C° (hot, *not boiling*) where you warm up the mold.
Then quickly inject the hot glue.
Don't use the bear vice it sucks the energy right out the mold. Make some wood jaws to retain the heat. You can use the water bath afterwards to split the mold and release the part.
I had the same problem while making bullet pens, the glue would solidify upon contact with the cold brass. The solution was a heat gun. I warmed up the brass first, placed the hot glue, then used a spray bottle to cool it off. It worked great. Love your videos.
Man, so many people/videos say you can't mill aluminum with a wooden cnc machine. But you are proving them wrong with a plastic and dremill cnc! Good job!!
As Mark Twain said "They did not know it was impossible so they did it" :D Thanks!
:-D That was the first thing I was thinking when I saw the video. How in the world are you milling aluminum with such a machine!!! Awesome to see in any case!
We were here we saw your failed trial run of your injection molding project for your logo, you fail you get up and you rethink this and try, try again.
We see you did it this time, the soft washers are great to see.
Thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
@Nikodem Bartnik I do not see failed experiments, I see a curious mind of a bright young man. Your workshop is littered with ideas, your vacuum cleaner, tool organizer, workshop layout.
Thanks dude! Positivity, we all need that these days :D
Try using silicone. The large tube with a silicone gun. The silicone won't solidify as quickly, giving you more time to squirt it in, but you will have to allow more drying time before opening the mold. Great job and effort so far.
Did this with a 3d printed mold
Add cornstarch to the silicone and it cures much faster. Check out protoputty on youtube
And use white mineral oil as a mold release. I spray it with a regular trigger sprayer. I need to get a quiet air compressor and make my own aerosol cans
Without an additive the silicone will never cure in the center. I don't know about cornstarch, which was suggested above, but I do know the professional use vegetable glycerine as a curing accelerator for silicone parts or molds with a large cross sectional volume.
@@tdpweaverful but the cornstarch can attract bacteria when moisture gets Inside
What will happen if you heat the mold up to about 60°C using a hairdryer? Thanks for sharing the failures too!
In such small elements escape of temperatures its no problem.
This cane be helpfull with bigger elements.
Check out my first video about DIY injection molding to find out
How about making a machine which used a 3D Printer extruder to pump melted filament into you molds?
@@AndrewHelgeCox i have yet found people using hot glue as filament. This should be possible
I don't have any suggestions to offer, but I love your persistence, Nikodem! I'm sure you'll come up with a solution and I anxiously await seeing what you show us next!
Thanks!
Use for flexible washers : sound dampeners (for motor or fan fixations).
You are a very smart person. I watch your work very much. I wish you success throughout your life.
Even though the zip tie mold didn’t work at least you learned from this experiment and you got 1 of your molds to work GOOD JOB!!!!!
Try to melt PLA which is failed 3d print or support material and inject it
I would like to do this, that would be great for recycling failed prints. Firstly I need to build a DIY manual Injection machine and then a small shredder
@@nikodembartnik that would be awesome tho
@@nikodembartnik hot glue washer that you can melt in to the hole for better adhesion? :O
Nikodem Bartnik I use my direct drive extruder from my 3d printer
That’s a sick idea!
Using wood as an insulator, try using the tip of the hot glue gun to heat the mold before you start injecting the glue/polymer. I like this idea and would love to see your future improvements. The initial time to make the mold is longer than just 3D printing washers/gromets/etc with a flexible filament, but then you can crank out hundreds pretty quickly.
Don't get too discouraged, I think you are on the right path and I think a warm mold, perhaps with a release agent, will help. I don't recall how long you waited before attempting to demold your hot injection attempt from the last video, but maybe waiting until everything has cooled to room temp or lower will help out with the demolding.
Every time i see these peltiers lying around, which i brought some years ago for something else that failed terribly thinking that i could make some ice cubes. i was really sad that it was of no use cuz i could not dissipate the heat. Now a perfect use for my peltiers. Thx for the video sub'ed.
You have one choice left:
1) You've got to find a pump without any leaks as you noticed
2) you use a glue with the point of fusion low enough to guarantee that the hot glue will remain liquid during a relatively long time (the time it fills your cast completely without any additional force). The problem with the glues you used is their high viscosity. Don't fear to use other materials that are more liquid when heated (some polymers), not necessarily glues. Google or get help from a good chemist in forums that don't deal with 3D printing nor filaments ;)
I'm glad that your CNC becomes the basis of a lot of interesting projects like this one.
put the molds in the oven first or just use tpu instead of glue. you have a 3d printer I see by your cnc. You can use the same setup as a 3d printer extruder+heat nozzle+hot mold. Very nice little dust collector you made btw.
Hey Nikoderm! I have run into this problem before. You can solve it with this tips. Distribute heat alongise the metal mold. You will have to have it hot in a temperature that continues melting the silicone along the way while its pushed. The second tip is get something with more power. There are some glue guns that work like a plastic injected machine!
You could try to insulate the aluminum mold to reduce the heat transfer. I would also suggest heating the hot glue up more, it will make it less viscous and flow easier through the mold. Also, depending on your goal you could inject different materials into the molds and see the results. Silicon air dries but it takes longer. Or try other components that wont harden until heated, so you could inject then bake the mold. You could make a parent mold that smaller molds fit into. The parent mold would insulate the smaller mold and you could clamp it it down in the vise providing a much sturdier clamping surface.
Preheat the mold in a hoven
You should consider making a shroud for the Dremel and putting the exhaust hose onto it. That may help with collecting your metal filings as there's not much room for them to move to
now you make your own line of gundam
Hot glue is just never going to work the way you want, it loses heat and solidifies too quickly. It's also not viscous enough to spread quickly. You need something that's a thinner material that flows faster/easier and cools/dries slower.
Still, good experiment and good info on the milling bit. It might be good if you (and/or the community) put together a table of material --> spindle speed / movement speed / bit combinations that are known to work. It would be helpful to those of us doing CNC for the first time with this setup.
I'm working on a dust/vac shoe for the original design that will help with capturing the shavings/dust and get them into the vac - will share once I get it done... Plan is to also make it 3D printed and a simple add-on to your current Z-axis setup. I'm just torn on whether to make it fixed height or have it move up/down with the Z. I'm nowhere near as good at CAD as you (I use TinkerCAD as Fusion360 has me totally stumped and every time I sit down to learn it I don't get very far and have to then not touch it for several months and forget everything I learned...)
You could use ceramic spray paint to add an insulated barrier. It might give it enough time to spread before cooling
Ordinary soot from the candle is enough
I believe hot glue isn't the best choice. Maybe try some epoxy? But in this case, you definitely have to use a release agent.
But in general, great work.
1. I think, with such technology and matreials you need to inject the glue in the center of the model
2. I saw your experiments with heating the mold, thats why I have a question: it is better use compound (liquid plastic) like Unicast, isn't it? No heating, no need in preasure.
3. Preasure! If you want to make things from hot glue you need more preasure without extra heating
4. And there is one more idea: put the material (glue or plastic granulat) to the mold, heat it. But! Make some holes before it, where air and extra material could "go away".
I really like you videos and hope that you will success!
Should try a mould release. Most are just white mineral oil in an aerosol can. One it lubricates the part and also helps with heat transfer.
Easy down and dirty way is dip the 2 parts in mineral oil. Put them together. Aim a heat gun on the coldest end of the mould. Using a temperature sensor of some sort. Heat up to 10 degrees less than melting point and than inject the glue.
Or can try capillary action. And set the temp of the mould to 10degrees higher than the glue gun. But you might have bubbles. So you would have to inject from bottom going up.
A flexible washer is basically a gasket, so yes there is a use for them. They can also be used as shock absorbers.
Good job, your project is very good. I also really liked this equipment to remove dust.
Seems your M5 washer mold is the maximum surface area a non heated injection will take because the plastic stops dead just at the exit.
So you either stick to comparable surface areas or try the heating and release agent approach.
Keep a heatgun turned on and aimed at the mold so you can keep the aluminum to a certain tempature then pull it off as your injecting it so both cool down and give you time to inject it fully.
Wow, it's better than I was expecting! Great job!
I students of high school mold department
yours was very nice but we made bigger mold
Very nice video
Hi! To no spend time doing the pins, in each side you could make only holes, then use rods o a piece of steel nail. Then you dont have to wait for milling the entire surface to make those pins.
I do have one idea, if you heat up the mould and keep it at around 60º it should work, you could make a peltier based heater, to remove the part (because it's glue) try tapping gently with a rubber hammer on the juctions all around the part, and evenly!
Good work getting it working after your mess you had first time! Well done with the effort!
Thanks!
its fantastic seeing the steps you are trying out. keep experimenting!
heat the mold with a heat gun, and when done, drop the whole mold in isopropyl alcohol. the alcohol shrinks the hot glue and debonds it from most smooth surfaces, like your mold. also, draft your registration pins. they don't need to grab each other, just need to hold alignment, so make them cone shaped instead of cylinders.
Great work, love channels like yours. More hands on knowledge helps develop ideas and experience
You should preheat the mold to get more product from the bigger mold, it is a recommendation for the 2nd mold sample to run.
Congratulations nice and useful video
Imagine how good your stuff would be if you looked into how moulds get made commercially, got some screw injection, had a sprue where the hot material didn't have to turn corners? Imagine the possibilities. I could see this being great for silicone washers, maybe some polyurethane?
Injecting from the middle of the mold was a good idea, you could use a thermal plate to rapidly heat and cool the mold. The other thing is having lots of little holes in the mold so that you are not fighting air pressure, even better if you can create a negative pressure to pull the glue in into a vacuum.
Try using pewters metal, it’s a low temperature melting alloy , who’s liquodous temperature is lower than the aluminum mold. It’s viscous properties will allow it to flow into the mold vs your hot glue that can’t retain its heat due to thermal mismatch.
Hi,
Maybe you could tear apart a water boiler and use it to make a vise that holds your mold in boiling water. Then the mold is hot while you inject the glue into it.
Adding salt in the water even lets you raise the temperature to about 120C
I like the idea of using PLA leftovers. I also thought that maybe you could try a Jewelery Mold Vulcanizer unit to heat up the aluminum mold and using a hot end and extruder set up to inject the plastic into the mold, possibly with heat throat extension instead of a nozzle into a thread mold fill port and leaving very small relief vents at the end of each path in the mold so the mold will fill completely. Mold could be sprayed/dipped/coated in a thin layer of MagiGoo, 3dGloop or some other release agent. Just an idea, would love to see someone experiment with the implementation.
first of all i suggest you make holes on your molds so that you can screw the two parts together because as you can see at 9:44 every time you insert the hot glue gun tip the mold flexes, also you can keep the mold inside boiling water to preheat them and remove before injecting, lastly you should use a release agent to help the hot glue slide inside the mold to the outer parts !
Good project! I feel that you have learned a couple of valuable lessons.
hey niko, if you fabricate the mold, drill the injection port later with the drill and countersink it so the nozzle of the hot glue gun fits perfectly, that way you dont lose plastic and you can build more pressure!
Cześć, sporo eksperymentowałem z formami wtryskowymi i po dłuższych eksperymentach mogę powiedzieć Ci, że zdecydowanie gęstość materiału jest za wysoka (należy podwyższyć temperaturę na pistolecie). Koniecznie musisz też podgrzewać formę do najmniej temperatury upłynnienia materiału - dla kleju tego typu to około 80-130C i w tym zakresie radziłbym się trzymać. Małe formy można szybko podgrzać korzystając np z ogniw peltiera, gdzie na okres wtrysku aluminiowa forma posłuży jako radiator. Samo ogniwo peltiera to tana alternatywa dla grzałek, za modłu 40W zapłacisz 15 zł. Warto tylko zainstalować jakiś termostat jako zabezpieczenie, bo gorąca strona peltiera nie może wejść ponad 200c. Efektem ubocznym jest schładzanie drugiej strony ogniwa peltiera ;)
Great job so far , a suggestion if i may , aluminium disipates heat 4x faster than carbon steel ,all the molds that i have been involved with used a heating function and kept at temp before injection happens . Good luck .
You have 3 ways to fill that mould
1 heat up the mould to delay the hardening of the glue
2 inject from 2 or 3 pointsto fill up the mould... You might have weld lines if you do not inject in the same time
3 somehow increase the injecting speed and presure
If you were to back a flexible washer with a rigid washer you create a good water resistent connection.
What about using a small vacuum pump with very low suction to help draw the hot glue in? Squeeze the glue while the vacuum is sucking from the other end of the part mold.
Try preheating your mold with a heat gun. It will require less pressure and should fill completely. Thanks for sharing!
Check out my first video, heating up the mold is not a good idea
I think it might be interesting to use a caulking gun and some silicone. If you modeled the nozzle of the caulk gun (or even the glue gun) you could get a seal at the injection point of the mould and get much higher pressure, enabling larger casts.
Using a caulking gun would enable you to produce silicone washers, much more useful as they'll handle temperatures above ambient.
It might also be fun to try to produce grommets and other vibration isolation mounts. Gives me some ideas! Thanks for the video!
I tried this with a 3d print, and it worked but only if you use some kind of oil like vegetable oil to lubricate the mold
Very Nice results there. There was some air pockets though overall structurally sound.
For that challenge you face, you can try adding some heater cores to a block or blocks positioned around the mold. I have piles of those heater cores/coils of different shapes and diameters, other line production automation components, from a volvo truck plant that was closing type auction. Normally these are stupidly expensive, though auctions can and do change the rules to that. Some are intended to be self clamping on pipes that feed the material.
If the glue gun was a inline setup with a adaptive coupling rather than with the nozzle, even flow rate and without much loss of material per molded part.
I want to try making some molds soon too, and a vacuum forming table, and even to make types of filaments and thermal formed sheets from recycled material to use for the vacuum forming.
Maybe try modding a 3d printer extruder and injecting PLA, it should have a higher viscosity when hot making it easier to do bigger molds.
Thermo dynamics are your worst enemy when it comes to injection moulding, you have to have enough stored heat in the mould to allow the substance to remain viscous until it fully fills the mould, then for it to harden and cure before it release.
Release spray will help a lot with the filling of the mould too allowing the liquid inside to slide through the mould with less friction and contact to the faces of the mould.
i think you could make the molds heated using a 3d printer board, 2 40 or 50w heaters and a thermistor, basically turning the mold into the heatblock
look at Precious plastic website. There are some plans to built a diy injection machnine (and other usefull machine for a workshop)
You can push manual the silicon bar to get more presure
I would say something like an under floor heating pad the electric type will help with the second injection mould. As you say the glue is cooling to rapid so the heat pads can evenly heat the mould then inject.
Could you use the extruder from the 3D printer to fill the mould? You could make an injection stand, with one stepper motor, a hot end, and then you could replace the 0.4 nozzle with a cnc part. You could make a frame and vice part of the stand so you put your mould inside, clamp it up and then extrude pla, petg, flex, whichever
Ah, the first industrial steps to getting a PhD in robotics, growing a wild mustache, and changing your name to Dr. Robartnik.
If your 3D printer hase a heatbed, you can use that to pre-heat the mold. When the mold is “hot”, position your extruder at the fill part of the mold a pump it full of plastic wit your extruder.
I think I have seen this done before
Extruder can't extrude plastic fast enough
I don't know if you changed it on the second mold but I think that the hole where you put the hot glue gun for the injection should match the head of the gun. On the first one it was some sort of a square and the glue leaked, this means you are loosing pressure.
Ps: Very nice to see you finally having a successful mold!
Isopropanol is able to creep under hot glue and it can disconnect the bond between glue and surface. Maybe that helps when releasing the part from a mold that was preheated before
Nice experiments! Would love to see some more different materials you can easily diy mold
I don't understand at all the worry about heating an aluminum mold? i would try heating it with a hair drier or small torch or even a candle. The soot from a candle could even be a good help in release. You don't need to heat the mold to glue melting temp just enough that the aluminum won't suck the heat from the glue enough to chill it quickly.
when you use hotglue on cold metal it won't really stick. and you can get nice imprints off of it.
when you use hotglue on warm metal it will bond so strong to it that you bend the mold trying to get it off and ofcourse tear the hotglue into pieces
darkracer125 i don’t think the glue was the issue in his first attempt. There may not have been enough clearance for the “pins” and they cooled into a slight press fit which made the mold difficult to separate. I didn’t run any numbers or measure his pins, but that’s my educated guess anyway.
It's a great idea to prototype your molds this way. Congrats on your washer maker.
Also, you were smart to move the injection location into the middle of the zip-tie mold.
Maybe you can consider using two injection locations and two hot glue guns simultaneously to get the delivery fast enough.
Of course with your abilities, I can see you designing a simple injection machine to replace to glue guns as you progress on the learning curve. :-) Keep up the great work!
Maybe u can heat the shape to prevent a fast cold down. This could help the glue to flow in each part.
You can check the temperature of the nuzzle and preheat the mood to an oven
Where i dont think hot glue m5 washers have much value, this was an amazing proof of concept! Im going to subscribe to make sure i see what else you make!
Why don't you make a custom 3d printer extruder open the nozzle with drill bit. Or you could use a female to female brass barrel to feed your mould. CNC your threads on the block. What do you think?
Use an auger based injector. Much better injection pressure than just a squeeze trigger.
A remolding plate to fuse all the scrap into a hotgun tube would be funny
I think your smiley face mold will work if you make the injection port on the largest side between your NB initials and have your air escape ports around the perimeter of the mold.
I was going to suggest a protective smartphone case as a next injection mold project
Maybe there is an optimal temperature to warm the mold without the silicon sticking too much
Wait what silicon? This is EVA-based.
For the centering system is better to place the hardened standard pin and ring. The adjustment of nozzle is bad, in High pressure injection is very important tris adjustment.
easy to reduce cooling down time, clamp the mold and keep it in warm water
You might consider cranking the bass EQ down a notch or so. Everything is boomy.
Hi Nikodem - Not all hot glue guns reach the same temperature, the ones we have in our school are cool running which is about half the temperature of the professional glue guns. I think yours is this type so see if you can borrow a different gun. Good luck and keep trying.
Great first results! Hey, as far as I know, there are two types of hot glue. Low temp glue melts about 120 C and high temp glue melts more like 200 C. Since you said you are using a cheap glue, I'm assuming it uses the low temp glue. Maybe look into a high temp glue gun?
Nice work!
Thank you!
make the injection hole chamfered to match the end of the hot glue gun. it may help with pressure. great job
perhaps form the tip of the glue gun with a ''key''...so it can be actually locked to the mold during the entire procedure?
@@imperialpresence3331 I'm sure that could be done, but it would be much more difficult. Not sure exactly what you would gain though
At what temperature does hotglue melt? You heated it up last time, but nearly enough, you have to at least to glass transition temp. And you said no release agent was needed, but with the heated mold (which was a step in the right direction, but it was not nearly hot enough) you got your hotglue stuck. So you do need it when doing it properly.
Flexible washer's are good if you need screws on glass
In terms of bigger molds, you could build A heating System (or heat the mold to the "liquid state hotglue" temperature)
Great project. I agree that you should try a better quality hot glue gun and create a better seal with the tip and the mold. A better glue gun may heat the glue even more creating better flow.
Thanks! I will buy one soon. Zip tie mold has a proper inlet so there is no leakage around the nozzle
Well done Sir.
I don't think a zip tie is the best idea for your setup. You'll want as little surface area as possible so that hot glue has a passage within the skin that forms, so I'd suggest you increase the thickness of your part. I don't understand your aversion to heating up the mold with a heat gun and mold release, but you should try and get a mirror finish to make it as slippery as possible and have the thickness as uniform as possible. It would also help if you could find a way to suck the glue in from the vent while you inject it. If you still have problems de-molding your part you should try and put it in a freezer to make the Al shrink and stiffen up the part.
great video. One hell of a demolding for hot glue is Alcohol.. don`t have to be isopropil, but a high concentration (at least 90% I guess)
Good job young man!
Have you tried just a hot water bath? Or a toaster oven on low? When casting aluminum, I don't have to heat my mold to the melting point of aluminum, but anywhere close keeps the aluminum from losing so much heat to the mold. Even a hair dryer pointed at your vise could probably get you the extra BTU's you need to make the plastic flow to the end of the mold.
And polish the mold... Make sure there's no undercut or rough vertical surface for the hot glue to grab so it can peel out easily instead of gluing itself to the part.
Thank you!
Commercial iniection molders often throw away the parts from first cycles of the mold, same as lead casting. You have to warm up the mold, no question.
Good hot glue guns aren’t that expensive and seeing how much you use yours on the channel, you might want to consider one of these “investments”
Great video, I bet the molded glue could be used as gaskets.
Have you try any other non-metal material to be the mold like Gypsum? It can keep the glue temperature let it flow.