Machining a DIY Injection Mold! WW114
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2016
- Using Fusion 360 & a Tormach 440 to machine a DIY Injection Mold for X39 Brick Customs!
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Links for this video:
How We Film: bit.ly/2q8MfoV
Schaller Bins: ebay.to/29SJyPk
Noga Base: amzn.to/2cLbzup
Mitutoyo DTI: amzn.to/2dl9x35
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Reach us / CNC Info:
Speeds & Feeds: provencut.com
Download Fusion 360: www.dpbolvw.net/click-9255839...
Online Fusion 360 Training: bit.ly/LearnFusion360
Hands-On CNC Classes: www.nyccnc.com/events
SMW Products: saundersmachineworks.com/
CNC Resources: www.nyccnc.com
Music copyrighted by John Saunders 5 Reasons to Use a Fixture Plate on Your CNC Machine: bit.ly/3sNA4uH - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Playoffs DAY 5 // 100T vs PRX | FUT vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q75pv359eP4/mqdefault.jpg)
Man I'm glad I saved these videos. I've been working on making fishing lure molds on my Shapeoko in 6061 aluminum. I referenced these videos a lot in the process and finally have a good working mold.
awsome love your excitement in the work and products you produce. amazing the tolerances you can achieve with a machine that inexpensive. you make it look so easy.
Neat stuff! I just started experimenting with the micro mills, too. I'm kind of surprised they are as resilient as they are. I even ran a .03125" (1/32") through some #6 stainless screws to make a screwdriver slot and didn't break a single tool. Well, aside from accidentally touching one with the wrench when I tightened it up in the collet.
I haven't tried my .01562" (1/64") mills yet. They come with a protective cover over the flutes inside the protective tubes. :D
I am just so happy to see this. GREAT WORK !
Lol, "good grief john" haha. Have fun checking your run outs on tiny tools! It made me smile. One day I'll be your competitor! Much love fam!!
Would love to see the mold producing! would like to see the final product and whether there be any artifacts etc. GREAT VID!
That is just Awesome John.................The price point is just unbeatable with your set up, that is why i am so attracted to the Tormach!
Very cool mold! Thanks for sharing!
That is very nice. I have been machining with micro bits all my life. I work in the jewelry industry making injection molds. Class rings, Championship rings, Coining dies, etc. The other day I had to make a .003" 30-degree tool to cut lettering into a steel block for a coin. I am impressed you were able to machine with the .03" tool and not break it for it is your first time. The .01 and smaller get a little trickier.
Smallest end mills I have worked with is 0.01" making screwdriver recesses in magnesium screws. At least once I managed to break the cutter just putting it into the machine. I've done a bit of drilling through circuit boards with 0.2mm drill bits, luckily the bits held up fine.
Thanks for showing set up difficulties! these channels that cut all the problems out of the video are difficult for me to watch, like, get real! awesome video, subscribed!
John, consider that you may actually have a tenth or two in your spindle bearings when you're looking at that jump. Great vid, Cliff
Very nice. Our company is building a custom plastic injection machine that will be using aluminum inserts similar to that size as well. the harder task is locating and incorporating ejector pins and their positions. Looking forward to seeing more!
@know your enemy, have you been able already to produce the mold? you can add my skype: kenneth.mungu I work for a mold manufacturer here in China. www.bestmold.cn
Any updates? I'm interested in a mold machine
yea I hope we get to see the injection mold process, that stuff has had me intrested for a while. but never actually seen it happen.
Awesome video, very insightful! I'm a sculptor looking to automate and increase production on a diy budget. Would it be possible to use 3d printed molds and silicone molds inside a simple metal shell for injection molding? What would some potential issues be?
When you adjust your indicator arm and set it against the part you arm measuring give the indicator arm a little tap with your finger nail, it'll release the mechanical tension in the arm and stabalise the indicator. Also I think somebody already mentioned exhaust runners for over pressure but these generally aren't used in modern injection moulding since the pressure is used to eliminate shrinkage whilst the plastic solidifies, it is the pressure that needs to be accurately controlled.
I currently work in a shop that manufactures parts for pace makers. I never knocked runout out of tools until starting this job. It is a MUST when using small diameter tooling. I would recommend checking the runout on the cutting edge as close to the end of the tool though. It is possible to have runout on the cutting edges and none on the shank near the collet. Also, you should be finding the high point of the tool before checking the runout. If you are off center, you will not get an accurate measurement
Awesome. Concerning the jump when you were checking the run-out, my guess is the spindle bearings have a worn/flat spot, or it could be just a manufacturing defect on the tool that you were checking. To double check I would put a dowel pin in and mark the area on the spindle where the jump is, take the tool holder out, rotate it check again and see if it repeats in the same spot on the spindle. No matter what orientation the tool is when inserted into the spindle.
Fascinating. Thanks for sharing.
love the enthusiasm
A couple of comments and observations:
Capturing tiny features:
Consider sinker EDM. Manual machines can be had for under $1K and are absolutely perfect for this size tool. Additionally, since electrodes are commonly graphite (in the US, at least), using tiny tools (0.010" and under and 10X diameter to length) isn't such a sphincter clenching ordeal. EDM is an entirely different realm!
Cutting runners:
Specialty runner cutters are available from people like Harvey Tool. I have had very good luck leaving 0.0075-0.005 axial stock for a semi-finish pass and 0.0025-0.001 with a standard ball end mill when cutting fully circular runners. On that note, talk with the tool designer and let him or her know that if fully circular runners are absolutely required, 1/16" increments are preferred from your position. Propose trapezoidal or modified trapezoidal whenever possible.
Measurements:
Good call measuring runout with small tools - it's the often overlooked killer not only in terms of tool breakage, but also in surface finish. When using a tenths indicator or tighter, it's important to take out any hysteresis in the measurement setup. Using the plastic end of a screw driver to tap the base, in this case the vise, until the indicator settles out is one method. Furthermore, keep temperature in the back of your mind. If you're comparing runout both pre and post machining, your spindle has likely warmed up and, depending on environmental factors, may cool relatively rapidly, thus making your runout look worse than it really is.
Tool paths:
Roughing and semi-finishing: make every effort, especially with tiny finishing tools, to leave a constant amount of stock. While every cam system lets you leave stock for finishing, the vast majority (all, I believe), do not take in to account the scallop height that is an artifact of any operation. For example, if you leave five thou to finish and have a five thou scallop, the next tool is engaged up to 200% of the desired amount. It's always a trade off.
Finishing: Z-level, or "waterline", finishing paths are preferred in the tool and die industry. The rationale is that because you're starting at the top of the part and working your way down one level at a time, the cutter engagement is much more predictable. Think of it this way - when a ball end mill traces the inside of a concave feature, it could experience as much as 50% radial engagement!
It's great to see someone so excited and passionate about manufacturing! Keep pushing your skills and, well done!
Very informative. Thank you.
Now this is awesome man👍
I'd like to do something like this too but I'm toolmaker in a stamping factory
Remember that the tolerance for a LEGO brick moulds is 5 micron( they aim for 2 microns) and when moulding the temperature in the metal can't varies more than 0.5C (32.9F)
I think you mixed up relative and absolute temperatures. Absolute 0.5°C resemble 32.9°F, but a temperature difference of 0.5°C (which is the same as 0.5K) resembles a difference of 0.9°F. It all has to do with the fact that both skales have a different zero point (0°C = 32°F and 0°F = -17.8°C).
This isn't a LEGO brick mold, nor is it produced for the LEGO company.
Any follow up videos of the machine used for molding? Would like to see that!
They are very boring..
Thank you for this valuable content
I usually press fit the dowel pins on one side of the mold so they stay in place.
Flow spots are called the sprue, sick video man 🤙🤙
That machine is amazing!!!
Great.
Yes. Mold info is very interesting.
That was cool. We use injection molding where I work. I'm interested in seeing the finish on the finished product.
Keep on trying new things. Push the envelope.
You are amazing. Thank you!
Most Excellent!
good job on such a small moldt and the filming was incredible. next time you do a mold make an air evacuation pocket, also when you do a contour you can start on a corner so you don't have that line in the middle. can't wait to see what you can do with the haas.
AWESOME AWESOME STUFF.
John you were asking about the slop in the 10,000 indicator on your final end mill. I've seen this when the spindle bearings heat up and you get a tiny amount of bearing expansion which will cause some bearing runout. But I'm old school so what do I know. When I started they still had tape NC machines.
John, how do you remove the left over stock that you had to keep on the part for work holding? Just flip it over in the vice and mill it off?
BTW, with the help of your videos, I finally made my first CNC'd part tonight! Just a simple 14 gauge sheet metal bracket cut out on a water jet, but it still felt pretty awesome to see it go from a blank Solidworks document, to HSMWorks, then from the stock to my final part.
Tim Wolf yep. Just flip it and cut to requires thickness
Fun to see your excitement about this part. It's cool to see a project like this come together. I do hope that part works out for your client. Ummm... the bazooka is awful close to the end of the part. I'd be worried about that thin wall bending. This might be OK for injecting wax at low pressure, but might cause some heartache with higher pressure materials. It might also become a liability during long term use. It's so thin I'd be worried about knocking it and somehow bending it. I wonder if the holes were there for alignment - did you ream them to size ?
That's a great job done in fusion 360 , please make a video of software generated CAM program insertation in machine (VMC) and tools selection ( end mills)
Super turtorial. Best wishes
If you don't line up your indicator with the needle 90 degrees to the line made by the center of your tool and the center of the ball on the indicator, you can get some wildly varying results. Try just moving the indicator laterally around a little and you can see how much effect it has.
Runner is the term you were looking for what you called 'flow slots', and where the plastic goes from the runner to the cavity area is called the gate.
this is awsome
Great Video!
I just have a question a little off topic.
We just got an old CNC machine back up and running after 3 years fo the previous manager not using it.
I am new to the area (Ohio) and was wondering where do you get your stock metal from?
Let me know and thank you!
Question: how did they make the molds for plastic injection models before the invention of CNC?
I work at a tool and mold shop (been there for 7 months now) and the processes are very similar except for the programming software
What's the spec on tne milling cutters are you using? I've never got anything below 1.5mm [ 1/16th] to not snap as soon as it touched metal even at really slow speeds and minute cut depths.
From my perspective it looks like the jumping in the needle is because you are indicating on the ground surface. Does it jump like this when you indicate the shank?
Maybe an endmill with more flutes would help with that surface finish and maybe if you can choke up in the tool as much as you can. love the video btw
I often use MasterCAM CNC programming software, what software you use , tell me please ,thanks.
the shut-off Surface by the rocket launcher needs to be larger because the molding pressure can easily push that out the plastic floating is called the runner the entrance to the park is called the gate I don't know how you programmed it would try to leave the park a dress shirt so that way you can get a really nice finish heart
Question, why you don't using chemical polishing? It can reduce the end cost
Always incredible content from your videos. Just amazing....
Amazing video! I wanted to know if you take on customer orders on a regular basis. I need to get a aluminum mold made for something smaller than the toy you just made. Has to do with the fishing industry. If so, how can I get a hold of you?
Ain't it just great working with tiny tools?.. i just came from the shop, Milling a 1.6 mm (1/16" -ish) hole, 4mm deep, with a 1 mm endmill (5/128"-ish).. 20.000 RPM, 100mm feed.. oh yeah.. in Titanium, i saw your vid about machining Titanium the other day.. you guys do great work, and that Tormach PCNC 440 looks like a "more than half decent" machine... I'm considering buying one in the future..
Keep up the good work!
REally cool! how many hours did it take?
Dial jumps because its dry, needs a little oil like all friction on friction surfaces. Nice job.
A couple of things might be messing with your indicator readings. First you rotated the spindle in both directions. Not sure what the precision of the Tormach 10K spindle is, but best to keep the bearings going one way. You might want to see what the runout on the raw spindle is, and what happens when you move it by hand. Another thing is to mount your indicator to the head not the table. Depending on how you lean in to rotate the spindle, especially with a camera in there, too, there could be some table movement. Also you are measuring on the tapered portion of the tool. That area is not critical so the grind tolerance will not be as fine as the shank and the flutes, which need to be precise to each other.
Wait until you get an electronic gauging head and meter setup, your dog walking by will cause the needle to move. ;)
Rambozo Clown
spindle temp would also be a factor ref runout . E.g. Bearing clearance would not be optimal . Not sure if a Tormach 10k spindle would need a warm up routine .
Stuart
KINDA WHAT i WAS THINKING. Way too much room for error readings. ball guage tip falling into cut flutes of mill bit etc. all along I was thinking, on a ball nose, do the guaging right at cut tip. with understanding there would be tooth to factor. of course, with understanding that ALL these guys are much MUCH more knowledgable than myself in this!
I know this is far fetched, but I don't like looking for mold makers for my product I have designed. So far after seeing your video it looks pretty damn good! How much do you normally charge to make a mold out of aluminium? Ruffly the size is 6.5 x 11.5.
That is so cool i am learning all i can think about this what if you made that mold the positive opposite out of something real hard then punch it into red hot steal i think my IRISH friend called it nibing then one mill operation lots of steal molds thanks for sharing from john in Texas all the best
Real hard like what? Cubic Boron Nitride? That would be interesting to machine ;)
The way this is done is by making a blank from copper (or graphite) and using EDM (electro discharge machining) to erode the feature out of the steel.
If you stagger the guide pins, it's a lot easier to put the mold together because it can only be put together one way
How much is like the cheapest costumized injection mold?
One with minimal detail
Maybe polishing the mold, that would make the casting look less rough. Pretty good work on the cnc part.
How much stock to leave did you have before the last pass? I'd imagine .001-.002? For the future on the sprue path that you had trouble cutting at full depth, try running the closest size ballnose through and then finish pass with your 3/8". For instance, run a .3125 or 8MM through the slot and leave .030 on the bottom, then you're taking roughly 30 thou off all edges with your final pass but at a much lower chip load.
John, this is not a mold by itself, but it is a part of the mold, where we injection molders say core & cavity.
The cross in between (you made here)is where the molten plastic flows, is called runner. and there is no sprue & sprue bushing where the hot plastic is injected. The runner should not be more than the half of the molded plastic part.
So when I say it is part of the mold is because it is missing few items like, water inlets and outlets for cooling hot plastic, sprue bushing for machine to inject and also I see that there are no ejector pins to eject the part from the cavities after the cycle is completed There is no injection machine in the world where the material is injected from the side. But if it is a Blow molding then YES. The Blow molding terminology is totally different than Injection Molding.
We never use aluminium for long production runs as Aluminium is a soft material, the closest possible material is 4140 or tool steel. Maybe they made this for prototype or a small production run like 5-10k shots. Whereas we calculate for a production run like minimum 100k.
Can you please check with your customer if i am correct ? Will appreciate your efforts.
It is indeed the mold - one half of the entire mold. It is not an insert, and there is no frame. no water lines are needed, not sprue bushings, as the plastic flow is entirely parallel to the parting line. He didn't mention blow molding because this is INJECTION molding. It is also an aluminum mold for prototyping - it is not a production mold (though the customer may use it to produce small runs of items for the small LEGO customizer market).
Nice work John, that's really impressive.
Are you going to inject molten plastic into the molds you made?
+NYC CNC how much cast this size maching centre?
If you want to try another injection mold, please let me know since that is what I specialize in. We normally use tapered ball end mills with 1mm, 0.5mm, 0.25mm, and 0.1mm ball diameters. the tapered end mills are typically better since they are more rigid (less deflection) than a ball or square end mill. also the tiny end mills need to be turning around 12-16k in well balanced tool holders to reduce chatter.
The roughing end mills depend entirely on the shape and size of the required cavity but i can give you some pointers on that sort of thing.
Lastly, a cavity like the one you made in this video would actually be cleaner and pretextured with a sinker EDM. You'd need to first mill out the electrode in carbon or copper then mount the electrode in the EDM and let it spark away until the cavity is fully formed.
If you're ever in SoCal please feel free to hit me up and i'd be happy to show you how we do things. (its not as pretty as your shop but it gets the job done)
-Sean
Tera Engineering Co.
Hello just wondering if you work with a lot of injection molding companies ?
You can probably even use a semi rigid CNC router for such fine engraving, even in steel. I can't imagine a 40 taper spindle with a 20hp motor being optimal with a 1/32 end mill...
Seems the bazooka is a little close to the edge of the mould. Would the edge of the mould buckle under the pressure?
Pilch Plays the mold blocks are put into a steel frame in the injection machine and the whole thing is hydraulically clamped together. The aluminum walls won't be going anywhere.
There is a risk that some dirt or plastic scrap may buckle the thin wall inwards (Been there, done that... ;-) )
These are a bit close, I agree, but I've cut over 300 small molds like this with never a blowout. The only real issue is the reduced clamping force near the edges of the mold (most mini injectors use a round plate on the clamping cylinder) , and this guy will tend to flash is the plastic gets too hot.
Is a scallop toolpath the same as a waterline?
What camera are you using in this vid?
Question - why did you scallop the edge of an injection mold... wouldn't that show a seam when the two sides are combined?
I am an injection molder, and mold maker......any mold will have a split line no matter what. The idea is to make it as little as possible, and or hide it in the geometry of the part. Scalloping in molds is the best way, but when you are done cutting the mold, you polish the surfaces to allow an easier ejection of the part.
Jason Vincent is a mold maker a machinist or an engineer?
I work for an injection molding company, doing a lot of mold designs. I always try to center the parts in the tool. The end of the rocket launcher is way too close to the edge. If any material or dirt gets caught there, that thin wall is going to collapse, very easily. Keep that in mind, if you ever do this again.
Brett Hobbs can i get a mold done like this?
not sure if its been said yet or not, but the term for the "flow channels" or whatever is actually called "runners."
Nice
what kind of material do you make that mold...????
CNC my life
Alternative to the 'proof is in the pudding' John, Maybe jello would do :-)
Looks great but everything in the mould has a 0.4mm radius minimum, using that last tool, but in the CAD you had sharp edges how is that normally acheived?
It's not normally achieved at all. Adding all the inside radii on a really complex mold half will frequently bog down the CAD workstation to such a degree that you just plan for the radii to be there based on the size of the tool that you'll be cutting with.
Alucinante, para hacer una pistola de plastico que vale 1€ necesitas maquinaria y herramientas por valor de 5000€, esto si que es sacarle rendimiento a las herramientas.
Why use ER-holders for mold making? If you don't want any run out, use hydraulic, or Mdsk from Nikken.
Look at your injection flute, you might get stress crystallization of your polymer which makes the final product brittle
Hello, I'm totally new to CNC and would to like to learn how to make thing like that on CNC. Could you tell me please where should I start? I was trying to find any CNC classes in my area but looks like the closest one is in another state :(
NYC CNC the problem is I live in Philadelphia
Does the program you use suggest what tools you need to use?
No. In most cases, it won't allow you to program a toolpath using a tool that has geometry too large for the toolpath strategy.
The designer/programmer is still responsible for selecting the appropriate tool.
Hi Buddy, I am enjoying your Videos! Great Stuff... learning a lot. You posted a video where you bought a Haas. Great Machine. But this video is very impressive as well and made me curious about the Tormach. It Seems to be quite handy Machine for a reasonable cost. Off course you can recommend it but where are the limitations (in regards of the Haas). Thanks for all the time you put into you TH-cam Channel and I hope I will be in a position where I can do something like that.
Cheers Mate, Thanks you for the explanation. Seeing what the machine can do I think this is what I need for the start. Especially when I compare the price of a VMC. I might have to adjust the Programs according to the machine. I am looking forward to see more videos from you. Keep up the good work and live the dream for us!
quick note on tool runout. most mill spindles are requires to be under .0002 total runout measured at the taper. the only way I have seen near spindle spec runout conserved when measured at the tool involves shrink fit tool holders. 5 tenth tir aint no thing man.
Let me ask you, wich program you had used to create de G-Code?
NYC CNC Thank you so much!
Ever do forging dies?
sorry, what material do you use ???
I want to make a few plastic parts but have no idea where to start :/
That's some really nice machining, but I'm a bit surprised you can make injection dies out of aluminum. This isn't my area, but I'd always thought you had to use things like tool steel to keep the erosion down to something manageable. Maybe this is for a fairly short part run?
I used to think that as well, but turns out that aluminium is perfectly good for low-run (well, say up to 10,000 parts!) production. There's a little bit of blurb about this here - www.protolabs.co.uk/injection-molding/plastic-injection-molding/. For REAL production, you'd definitely want to use steel dies.
l wilton - You can use the aluminum mold to "bootstrap" yourself to a more rugged material. You cast a piece (the mold positive) with this aluminum mold negative, then make another mold negative with fine-grained casting sand, and use that to make the desired pieces out of cast iron, or whatever. This way, you just re-use the mold positive to make a new mold negative with the casting sand. You can even impress the mold positive multiple times into the casting sand if you need to cast lots of the part.
This looks more like a test mold anyway, it only molds one pc. per shot, and the parts have to be manually ejected. However, for small runs aluminum works perfectly well for this. Rather than spend huge dollars on a proper mold, it isn't that uncommon to do a mold like this to test a new part.
Aluminium mounds are often used for low volume runs as they are much cheaper to machine than tool steel. Also, prototyping is frequently done using a single cavity aluminium mould to prove the part and make any final changes before committing to producing a multi cavity tool in tool steel.
As for erosion issues... it’s likely that the parts will be moulded in ABS, HIPS, PP or HDPE which are not particularly aggressive and require less clamping force than if moulding GFPC or something of that nature.
Exactly. 6061 is soft, but machines easily and quickly - a critical consideration for prototyping. When spinning a 1/32" cutter, time is your enemy. Even small molds can take hours to cut the finishing passes at .001" stepover.
where on the die does the injection tip go into??
was the smallest tool 10,000 rpm?
how much would it cost roughly to make a mold? like the size of a skateboard wheel
NYC CNC like a mold for a skateboard wheel
Well it depends on the level of detail and complexity of the model, but... I'm guessing around $10,000 - $20,000 here in the United States. Assuming you already have the model designed to work with the mould designers, it shouldn't be too costly. Try to talk to many companies, large and small, and find a price that works best for you. The key is to get as many quotes as possible.
I assume you already found a place, but I wrote this comment for anyone else interested in the pricing.
skeletonboi is it really a piece of CNC worked metal $20,000 worth? What the hell.
@@CesarEnrRC1
mold need from 45 to 60 working days.... not child's play stuff.... the mold reach to 2000 pound weight
Hey John you scrapped the Part!!! (maybe) Don't ad a chamfer where the mold channel goes out of the mold, that is where a nozzle will inject the material into the mold. The nozzle will most likely be flat so now the plastic seeps out where the chamfer is. You can fix it by milling out the chamfer as wide as the nozzle diameter is. Been making molds, did that mistake once or twice ;)
Not scrapped. Easily adjusted. It is only a small chamfer in aluminum after all. Countersinking the nose is an easy fix.
wouldn't there need to be a relief hole for trapped air ? cause nothing would flow into those areas
Are there no vents?
Hello
i have found your youtube video for terrific glue injection
can you give me the address to buy the mold and glue
thank you in advance
How much cast this size maching centre ?
hey guys i need help!! how would you guys make a mold for a silicone injection product that is basicly a baby bib but it has a kangaroo like pouch for dry snacks?? i have 3d models and renders to see product im talking about? im at stage of manufacturing of product but i need advice on how to get from drawing board to mold to production. Can anyone help?
Call RevPart and they will give you a quote, they do silicone injections 844-738-7278. Or upload a drawing revpart.com/quick-turn-quote/ for a quote in 24 hours.
We specialize in making the silicone injection products.Feel free contact me caroline@modern-mold.com