was idling in the heat and my car started overheating, luckily for me this is the first video that pops and this fixed my problem. absolute legend for uploading this 🙌🏼
Been driving it for over 4yrs, never had the fan kick on. Couldn’t find anything to fix the overheating issue while idling, but nothing. As soon as I bought this new fan and look up a video to replace it, this pops up lol. Fan turned on right away. Thank you for this vid man
Another mustang owner you saved some cash, great video. I ended up not having to take it out but just scraped off the melted bs and threw some grease in it. Be careful not to break tabs, I busted one because it was stuck
Just saved me hundreds. I have a 2006 mustang and overheated today on the side of the road. Checked the connections and sure enough they were fried much worse than yours. Cleaned them up and Now it works perfect just like it did yesterday. Thank you so much man. Great tutorial!
I have a 06 my heater would stop blowing hot when I was at stop and blow hot when going ..I put pure antifreeze in and now the car is running hot ....is this close to what yours were doing... please let me know ..in a jam
@@jimmybright7579 not the problem that I had. My fans would not run at all. So at a stop my car would overheat. Not sure what your problem is… best of luck!
hows it doing 4 yrs later? still have your car? I recently experienced my car overheat and pop my coolant out, disconnected my connector and saw it fried along with the radiator side on a 2010 mustang, ever found a permanent fix like some relay or amp built into the connector/pin on the radiator fan wire?
My 2009 GT mustang is over heating due to loss of fan. Your video was the one that showed me why. Did a direct power to the fan and it still works. Ordering the resistor tomorrow. Hope this will fix my issue.
2011 mustang 3.7L - had similar issue, 3 mechanics didn't fix the overheating issue. I replaced the thermostat and water pump gasket myself and didn't have any overheating issues for the past 2 summers (East Texas), but today (high of 100°F) as I pulled away from getting a vehicle inspection my AC stopped blowing cold air (happened right before every time it's overheated in the past). Started watching the needle and from the time I left the Fast Lube until I got to my house (less than a mile) the needle moved from Normal Operating Temp to just below Max Temp and that was with the heater turned to full blast. I wouldn't have made it home if I didn't turn the heater on. Parked, killed the engine, opened the hood, and could hear and see the coolant boiling. This is the exact same set of symptoms that happened every time it's ever overheated in the past, but hasn't happened for 2 years since I replaced the thermostat and water pump gasket. I'll check the resistor in a bit, but if anyone has any other possible causes, I'm all ears. Thanks.
Hey Ryan, did you find the answer to your problem. Im going through the same thing with my 05 4.6L. I replaced the thermostat today which was corroded and broken but it still boiled over after the fix.
@@calvineldridge8699 i found the problem. It was the coolant reservoir tank. I have a relocation kit (made of thin plastic) because i have a supercharger. The top of the threaded male side on the tank was U shaped so i sanded it down with sand paper on a block of wood to flatten the surface. I ended getting a new cap because the seal went on the old one and was letting air into the system. I also pressure filled the coolant system on the last flush to get any air out and it seemed to do the trick. Thank you though, Im gonna keep an eye on the bcm for future problems.
@@natesena6395 you’re welcome. That seems to be a common problem on the s197. What I’m trying to figure out is, is it just people that has tune’s on their cars. Making the fans run more by lowering the temperature. 🤷♂️
Having the same engine overheating issues recently with my 2012 3.7L (59K miles). The heater wouldn't work in the cabin at first (it would blow only cold air) and just now got the overheating engine warning light within the last week. Took it to the shop and waiting for a diagnosis.
I'm having the same issue, fan does kick on when I engage the AC but does not kick on just from the engine getting up to temp, so the fan motor must be good. I pulled off the connector from the resistor assembly and so evidence of getting hot. I did apply a bit of die electric grease can't hurt. I could not for the life of me figure how to get the resistor out, try again tomorrow. I find it easier to remove the coolant reservoir out of the way.
Update: finally came off, after me and another buddy with pressure pliers took it by force. Nothing broke. Resistor seems to be fine, but what is that cable called that you are taking off the white plastic tab called. Is it a a fuse or a cable I have to order
I'm about to pick up a used radiator fan with the connector. its seems like it would just be easier to splice the wires to the new connector. is this a bad idea?
I had that done. It re-burnt the harness again. I've read that it was recalled? Or replacing the fan motor because it draws too much amperage works too. I bought the whole new harness-$500 from a salvage yard. Didn't have it new for my vehicle. I don't want to have to keep dealing with this. It burnt straight back up in now time.
Prolly a good idea to put electric grease (XG-12) on connector to help prevent corrosion. My 2014 GT doesnt have this problem and ac blows cold in 95 degree heat..but will keep an eye on it.
What was the problem? A short from a bear wire? I am having fan problems also but I started from the motor and I am just now going to tackle near the fan area.I have been doing so many fixes to try and find the problem with the fan that the car itself runs better then it has since I bought used...I am thinking I have a loose connection or a short because when I was bleeding the radiator coolant, some of the coolant over flowed in the area and the fan kicked on but not for long...Ford Mustang 1997 V6
Diana Vidal I would check the relay in the fusebox first and then check this resistor. If the relay is ok it is probably the resistor in the video. The wires lose contact inside the connector and end up burning the contacts. You will know pretty fast if you pull the connector apart and see burn marks.
@@dustygarage4513 thank you Dusty, I had checked the wires and voltage and replaced both temp sensors (engine coolant and temp gage) replaced one of the connectors and soldiered the wires (coated and wrapped too) heater is blowing hot when up to temperature but temperature gage is showing below running temperature until engine gets really hot..I replaced the CCRM (relays in a closed metal box) I have been cleaning and sanding ground connections so far on top of the engine compartment..I did have a problem with the alternator feeding back and looping, so I replaced the wire harrness...fan runs when I pull the connector off the therm temp sensor (runs on default) I tried 3 different therm sensors and then I installed a Ford OEM sensor...I reset and cleared the PCM..After checking wires around the top of the engine, I made my way to the front engine passenger side and I did fix 2 wires, one looked a tad brunt and the other almost completely broke, maybe 2 strands holding on (I think computer wires, very small wires) cleaned those connectors and sealed edges withe electronic grease (no burnt connections inside) ..I checked and I don't see a resistor on fan unless it is bult inside the fan motor...no fried fuses in fuse box...today I will check the wires from fuse box and clean and check connectors...clean connectors on computer...I had this problem when I first bought this car used 6 years ago, I thought I had fixed it, fan was kicking on back then, but I did notice that when the fan kicked on it was drawing or pulling power and it would make the engine stumble as it kicked in...I am going through the wiring because someone had changed out the engine and instead of finding the main connection they cut the harrness, I had reconnected those wires but I may have to check them again...I am not a machanic but I have been working on cars since high school and now I am a grandmother...I had basically worked on my cars because I was a single Mom of two girls, living in a rural area, being a barber I had drive many miles and I have a love for sport cars, I started out with Datsun/Nissan 280Z/280ZX which I couldn't find a mechanic that would work on them anyway..I am just stumped on this fan, if it wasn't for this wiring system controling the fuel and idle I would just straight wire it to a toggle
Diana Vidal, if I was too guess I would say it has to stem from the wiring harness being cut. Wiring issues are the usually the hardest to track down. Best of luck getting it fixed.
Yee usually overheat at idle is dead giveaway the fan isnt coming on. it’s not necessarily the fan itself tho. I would check the resistor at the plug (common for s197) and then fusebox connectors/relays.
My ground wire for the resistor came loose in my 2014 Bout 2 years ago but I was able to prop it in a way that it held it's connection (probably not the safest idea). But the other day my resistor fully burnt out and my plug is completely toasted. I had to overnight a new resistor and plug/pigtail . Needed this video to figure out how to pop the resistor off, thanks really good video!
I have replaced my moms fans twice now on her 2010 gt. She just called me yesterday and said that her 2nd fan just went out again. I noticed when I put the second one on that the harness from the motor looked burned on one of the pins. So what exactly should be replaced in this situation, the harness or the resistor?
I just replaced my harness but I found i pig tail at my ford dealership. Not sure if my resistor is bad but I would think If thats bad then nothing will be working for me now. But its work for today. Ill seeof anything happens
I think I’m having the same problem I got a 2014 Ford Mustang GT I have a brand new fan a new radiator new thermostat and sometimes the car overheats when the fan stopped working and sometimes the fan start working again I think it’s the same problem
Hopefully you can help me with my issue and find out what part to order to change it to figure out why the fans are working sometimes and sometimes or not
If you find the connector in the thumbnail it goes to a resistor stuck inside the fan shroud. You can pop it out and look for corrosion. From there it could be a ground issue at the harness.
DR3Z-8L603-A part number. One more tip is that you want to check your relays and connections at the fusebox when bad resistors short the circuit they’ll burn the pins at the fusebox and connector.
@@lonely-lo1153 thank you I'm going to change the cooler fan resistor pigtail and temperature sensor coolent to Cylinder head and i will check my fuse box... I have a new fan, new radiator new thermostat, The hoses are about 6 months old.. Thank you for your help
was idling in the heat and my car started overheating, luckily for me this is the first video that pops and this fixed my problem. absolute legend for uploading this 🙌🏼
Been driving it for over 4yrs, never had the fan kick on. Couldn’t find anything to fix the overheating issue while idling, but nothing. As soon as I bought this new fan and look up a video to replace it, this pops up lol. Fan turned on right away. Thank you for this vid man
You drove it for 4 years without the fan working?
People like you make the world a better place. Much thanks!
Another mustang owner you saved some cash, great video. I ended up not having to take it out but just scraped off the melted bs and threw some grease in it. Be careful not to break tabs, I busted one because it was stuck
We 40 baby
Just saved me hundreds. I have a 2006 mustang and overheated today on the side of the road. Checked the connections and sure enough they were fried much worse than yours. Cleaned them up and Now it works perfect just like it did yesterday. Thank you so much man. Great tutorial!
I have a 06 my heater would stop blowing hot when I was at stop and blow hot when going ..I put pure antifreeze in and now the car is running hot ....is this close to what yours were doing... please let me know ..in a jam
@@jimmybright7579 not the problem that I had. My fans would not run at all. So at a stop my car would overheat. Not sure what your problem is… best of luck!
It’s been over 6 months and the fix is still holding strong.
hows it doing 4 yrs later? still have your car? I recently experienced my car overheat and pop my coolant out, disconnected my connector and saw it fried along with the radiator side on a 2010 mustang, ever found a permanent fix like some relay or amp built into the connector/pin on the radiator fan wire?
@@pyrogaminghound9579unfortunately i don’t think anyone can prevent it from happening again
My 2009 GT mustang is over heating due to loss of fan. Your video was the one that showed me why. Did a direct power to the fan and it still works. Ordering the resistor tomorrow. Hope this will fix my issue.
That work ?
Did it work?
How did you give direct power to the fan. I wanna try it and see if it's the fan engine that failed.
Mine 2015 GT. Over heat happened 3 times now. Thank you helped me figured it out.
Thank you for this video, I was able to find the problem and now my fan works and my car is no longer overheating
Worked for me now I can run over crowds again
😂
If you pull that front engine cover and the reservoir loose it gives you more room
I was thinking the same thing...but thanks to him all the same
2011 mustang 3.7L - had similar issue, 3 mechanics didn't fix the overheating issue. I replaced the thermostat and water pump gasket myself and didn't have any overheating issues for the past 2 summers (East Texas), but today (high of 100°F) as I pulled away from getting a vehicle inspection my AC stopped blowing cold air (happened right before every time it's overheated in the past). Started watching the needle and from the time I left the Fast Lube until I got to my house (less than a mile) the needle moved from Normal Operating Temp to just below Max Temp and that was with the heater turned to full blast. I wouldn't have made it home if I didn't turn the heater on. Parked, killed the engine, opened the hood, and could hear and see the coolant boiling. This is the exact same set of symptoms that happened every time it's ever overheated in the past, but hasn't happened for 2 years since I replaced the thermostat and water pump gasket. I'll check the resistor in a bit, but if anyone has any other possible causes, I'm all ears. Thanks.
Hey Ryan, did you find the answer to your problem. Im going through the same thing with my 05 4.6L. I replaced the thermostat today which was corroded and broken but it still boiled over after the fix.
It’s in your fuse box, under your relays. Wires are melted in the bcm
@@natesena6395 that comment was for you
@@calvineldridge8699 i found the problem. It was the coolant reservoir tank. I have a relocation kit (made of thin plastic) because i have a supercharger. The top of the threaded male side on the tank was U shaped so i sanded it down with sand paper on a block of wood to flatten the surface. I ended getting a new cap because the seal went on the old one and was letting air into the system. I also pressure filled the coolant system on the last flush to get any air out and it seemed to do the trick. Thank you though, Im gonna keep an eye on the bcm for future problems.
@@natesena6395 you’re welcome. That seems to be a common problem on the s197. What I’m trying to figure out is, is it just people that has tune’s on their cars. Making the fans run more by lowering the temperature. 🤷♂️
Having the same engine overheating issues recently with my 2012 3.7L (59K miles). The heater wouldn't work in the cabin at first (it would blow only cold air) and just now got the overheating engine warning light within the last week. Took it to the shop and waiting for a diagnosis.
Great vid! Did this and I’ve came down to my problem the same! Will be making a vid thanks to this one!
For anyone wondering, the replacement part is br3z8l603a
Just replaced mine. Fixed the problem immediately.
Is this the coolant temperature sensor?
Check the fuse box where the relays plug in circuit have burnt marks you have to clean that surface off. A guy on TH-cam went to the source.
I'm having the same issue, fan does kick on when I engage the AC but does not kick on just from the engine getting up to temp, so the fan motor must be good. I pulled off the connector from the resistor assembly and so evidence of getting hot. I did apply a bit of die electric grease can't hurt. I could not for the life of me figure how to get the resistor out, try again tomorrow. I find it easier to remove the coolant reservoir out of the way.
Pulled out the resistor assembly the spring looks good and the resistor looks good. Don't know the value of the resistor so that's where I'm at.
Can you tell me how you took it out? I’m having a hard time removing it.
Great video but just FYI. The AC uses the hi fan speed. You'll need to get it up to running temp if you want to check the low fan speed.
What if it doesn’t want to disconnect? The resistor and the cable. Cause I can’t take it off even tho my clips are broken and all
Update: finally came off, after me and another buddy with pressure pliers took it by force. Nothing broke. Resistor seems to be fine, but what is that cable called that you are taking off the white plastic tab called. Is it a a fuse or a cable I have to order
Same problem...I direct wired the negative wire so that the fan runs at all times. It was a quick fix to keep the engine from overheating.
can you please deatiled explain which cables you put together?i have same overheating problem.
Your a savior!!!!!!!!!!!! This fixed the issue thank you thank you thank you!!!!
Does anyone know where could i find the engine oil temperature sensor location for a 2005 ford mustang gt ?
I'm about to pick up a used radiator fan with the connector. its seems like it would just be easier to splice the wires to the new connector. is this a bad idea?
How did you get resistor out please help
I had that done. It re-burnt the harness again. I've read that it was recalled? Or replacing the fan motor because it draws too much amperage works too. I bought the whole new harness-$500 from a salvage yard. Didn't have it new for my vehicle. I don't want to have to keep dealing with this. It burnt straight back up in now time.
What are these mysterious tabs he's pushing on to get the resistor out? I can't seem to get mine out. Fingers are going numb
The tab may be broken on yours, have you tried just pulling it out? They are just plastic tabs.
What happens if you lose the plastic clip that goes onto the harness😢
You are a life saver! I cant thank you enough!
Is this the coolant temperature sensor?
Prolly a good idea to put electric grease (XG-12) on connector to help prevent corrosion. My 2014 GT doesnt have this problem and ac blows cold in 95 degree heat..but will keep an eye on it.
your a live saver...THANK YOU...YOU ROCK
What was the problem? A short from a bear wire? I am having fan problems also but I started from the motor and I am just now going to tackle near the fan area.I have been doing so many fixes to try and find the problem with the fan that the car itself runs better then it has since I bought used...I am thinking I have a loose connection or a short because when I was bleeding the radiator coolant, some of the coolant over flowed in the area and the fan kicked on but not for long...Ford Mustang 1997 V6
Diana Vidal I would check the relay in the fusebox first and then check this resistor. If the relay is ok it is probably the resistor in the video. The wires lose contact inside the connector and end up burning the contacts. You will know pretty fast if you pull the connector apart and see burn marks.
@@dustygarage4513 thank you Dusty, I had checked the wires and voltage and replaced both temp sensors (engine coolant and temp gage) replaced one of the connectors and soldiered the wires (coated and wrapped too) heater is blowing hot when up to temperature but temperature gage is showing below running temperature until engine gets really hot..I replaced the CCRM (relays in a closed metal box) I have been cleaning and sanding ground connections so far on top of the engine compartment..I did have a problem with the alternator feeding back and looping, so I replaced the wire harrness...fan runs when I pull the connector off the therm temp sensor (runs on default)
I tried 3 different therm sensors and then I installed a Ford OEM sensor...I reset and cleared the PCM..After checking wires around the top of the engine, I made my way to the front engine passenger side and I did fix 2 wires, one looked a tad brunt and the other almost completely broke, maybe 2 strands holding on (I think computer wires, very small wires) cleaned those connectors and sealed edges withe electronic grease (no burnt connections inside) ..I checked and I don't see a resistor on fan unless it is bult inside the fan motor...no fried fuses in fuse box...today I will check the wires from fuse box and clean and check connectors...clean connectors on computer...I had this problem when I first bought this car used 6 years ago, I thought I had fixed it, fan was kicking on back then, but I did notice that when the fan kicked on it was drawing or pulling power and it would make the engine stumble as it kicked in...I am going through the wiring because someone had changed out the engine and instead of finding the main connection they cut the harrness, I had reconnected those wires but I may have to check them again...I am not a machanic but I have been working on cars since high school and now I am a grandmother...I had basically worked on my cars because I was a single Mom of two girls, living in a rural area, being a barber I had drive many miles and I have a love for sport cars, I started out with Datsun/Nissan 280Z/280ZX which I couldn't find a mechanic that would work on them anyway..I am just stumped on this fan, if it wasn't for this wiring system controling the fuel and idle I would just straight wire it to a toggle
Diana Vidal, if I was too guess I would say it has to stem from the wiring harness being cut. Wiring issues are the usually the hardest to track down. Best of luck getting it fixed.
@@dustygarage4513 we got fan baby!!!!!! I found to more connectors and both were full of grimy oil and one had a bad ground wire
Havin heating issue rn while idle would that be the same problem should I just check fan ??
Yee usually overheat at idle is dead giveaway the fan isnt coming on. it’s not necessarily the fan itself tho. I would check the resistor at the plug (common for s197) and then fusebox connectors/relays.
My ground wire for the resistor came loose in my 2014 Bout 2 years ago but I was able to prop it in a way that it held it's connection (probably not the safest idea). But the other day my resistor fully burnt out and my plug is completely toasted. I had to overnight a new resistor and plug/pigtail .
Needed this video to figure out how to pop the resistor off, thanks really good video!
Is the resistor on the fan or is it in the fuse box
@@anthonymoser1243 resistor is on the fan, relays are in the fuse box. I know you asked a week ago so you probably found the answer else where haha.
I got the 4.o that motor looks like a beast
My fan comes on for like 3 second and then goes off, with AC being on. Could it be the same issue?
I have replaced my moms fans twice now on her 2010 gt. She just called me yesterday and said that her 2nd fan just went out again. I noticed when I put the second one on that the harness from the motor looked burned on one of the pins. So what exactly should be replaced in this situation, the harness or the resistor?
I just replaced my harness but I found i pig tail at my ford dealership. Not sure if my resistor is bad but I would think If thats bad then nothing will be working for me now. But its work for today. Ill seeof anything happens
Where’s the tabs is it those two little metal things
I did the same thing later on it ran hot fan didn't come on and busted the heater hose I'm going replaced the whole thing
Could you tell me what type of resins is that, please?
Danny Dominguez Dielectric grease!
Same thing happened to my 12. Nice set up, pro charged?
Thanks! It’s a Kraftwerks Supercharger.
I think I’m having the same problem I got a 2014 Ford Mustang GT I have a brand new fan a new radiator new thermostat and sometimes the car overheats when the fan stopped working and sometimes the fan start working again I think it’s the same problem
Awesome video
Hopefully you can help me with my issue and find out what part to order to change it to figure out why the fans are working sometimes and sometimes or not
If you find the connector in the thumbnail it goes to a resistor stuck inside the fan shroud. You can pop it out and look for corrosion. From there it could be a ground issue at the harness.
DR3Z-8L603-A part number. One more tip is that you want to check your relays and connections at the fusebox when bad resistors short the circuit they’ll burn the pins at the fusebox and connector.
@@lonely-lo1153 thank you
I'm going to change the cooler fan resistor pigtail and temperature sensor coolent to Cylinder head and i will check my fuse box... I have a new fan, new radiator new thermostat, The hoses are about 6 months old.. Thank you for your help
@@lonely-lo1153
I ordered part FMC - DU2Z- 14S411 ABA
Resistor pigtail
Crown Vics, Grand Marques, with 4.6 V8, notorious for this, and fan and controller, just quitting!
the correct kind of dialectic grease may help temp fix
my 2013 gt is now overheating,but that connection is ok at me.any ideas?
Hi, did you find out why?
Thanks for video
Hopefully this is it, my fan doesn’t turn on no matter what. Even if the coolant gets hot
Did it fix it
Amazing Guy thank you sir
Anybody knows where u can go get the part from ??!!!
Lethal performance
Thx
Bro I can’t get the fan to even unplug on my I don’t see no clips
guess ill check this real quick
This happened to me in my 2019 mustang gt
i did this before and it still blew again
You do know the fuse block connectors are burnt also
I'm dealing with this now I've read replace the burnt plug and put a new fan ... Now going to the fuse box to check
Where did you find the new plug?
Lethal Performance
Mines doing same thing on my Gt
Anybody know the part number for this?
Resistor - Ford (7R3Z-8L603-A)
What was that playing in the back ground?