Yo braided brake pipes are a decent upgrade and way better than rubber god knows y u keep calling then fuel lines????those lil m4 sensor bolts u snapped just drill and tap simple all u did by welding it was make the metal even harder good luck think yer gunna need it
I think you’d have a lot less trouble stripping stuff down if you spent 2 minutes cleaning up with a wire brush and a drop of wd40 before going gun how with impact gun 👍
Clean the threads prior to trying to undo the nut get a wire wheel attachment for your drill. Loads of wd40 too your trying to take everything off dry. Clean the top of that abs sensor nut with a grinder back to fresh steel before you try welding to it. Done this job so many times it’s a horrible thankless thing your doing great.
Dont be shy with a wire brush on the bolt end aswell. As you are winding the nut off, its threads are all getting blocked up with rust n shi*e. Bit of wire brush and a bit wd40. Does help a huge bit.
I own some amazing sockets with teeth in for rounded rusty bolts , saved me in many occasions , was expensive but so worth it , keep the videos coming 😁😁
I’ve been a mechanic for 25 years but I still love to watch other people working on their projects. Like most 80’s boys, I also had a soft spot for the Cossies although I couldn’t dream of affording one. The only tip I would offer is definitely don’t F around with naked flames and grinders when there is a petrol tank in the same room. I’d hate to see her go up in smoke. Keep up the good work mate.
With the ABS stud, I first weld a large flat repair washer, on you get a better weld to the stud, them weld a nut on, but weld on the outside of the nut, not the inside. Good luck👍👍
Think its better to have a narrow heat torch flame so that you aim the blue tip onto the work piece for the highest heat. I assume the rebuild will involve plenty of copper slip or white marine grease on them long diff bolts so they can come apart easy if required again.....
Warming up the differential casing where the bolts passed through may of helped. As long as you don't over do the heat so as to not anneal the aluminium, just enough to expand the metal and break the bond with the bolt. Evenso good job, where there's a will there's away, no damage done and that's the main thing. Looking forward to seeing it all cleaned up, painted and with new parts where needed.
Yet again Adam u r a real have a go bloke mate I love watching what u do just having a go at things I wouldn't even try ow & yes the uggaaaduggaaa gun was in full effect top man mate keep the videos coming it really makes my day seeing what u can do
Having an oxy-acetylene torch completely changes these kinds of jobs. I live in a rust prone area and have dealt with every sad situation associated with frozen and broken bolts. With an oxy-acetylene torch, I'm not afraid of anything. With a welding tip, you can get a fastener red hot with a great deal of precision. A mapp or propane torch can help but it doesn't get hot enough. They nut welding trick also helps but with an oxy torch, you rarely get to that point.
Have a Sierra myself and had read beam out I swear on rusty bolts to open and tighten back and forth might take longer but never fails me and the end of the bolts a run of a wire brush
When you were trying to get the rest of the ABS Sensor out, I immediately thought this is one of those jobs you start as 'I'll just give it a bit of a cleanup' and then 2yrs later you're halfway through nut and bolt resto. 😄
Adam! Superb as always, the videos and your delivery getting better and better. A normal bloke with normal tools getting it done himself and learning his car inside out. Your growing and so will the Cossie collection!!! Perhaps be in Paul's level soon enough. Regards from the south coast.
Breakdown and hours worked on it, would be interesting, compared to a main dealer , prices would be massive from them. You're doing a cracking job, saving it from the scrap yard. 👍
When uve gone to the hassle adam taking it all apart get the diff soda blasted not dear put mat clear coat on it then it will look original and get the arms an beam 2pk satin with clear coat satin to protect it the powder coat dose in look wright just saying that's what ide do best of luck with her an ur doining a good job
Adam ! hey bud Scott from NZ here mate , good on ya for rebuilding the Brake calipers , . OR THOUGH one thing i know i wish you had of done is had sand blasted them , or and zinc plated them (goldey type / alloy looking finish on them ) to look like OME better than new , (LIKE , HONDA / NISSAN / TOYOTA ETC though the range )
Brilliant as always mate. Love your videos mate. Just a guy in his garage working on his cars he loves. Oh and we seen you grabbing the roasting hot drop link 😂
Hi Adam I used Stella blast up the back of Chester Le Street near to Pelton took some parts off my truck really good job loads off colours for the powder coating
Cracking video. The rear hubs and carriers look quite Sierra like. A horrible job for sure but it will look great when finished. For the axle casing, I've used a blast gun attachment on my compressor, and then made myself a cardboard blast cabinet to catch the media. I've even used a dumpy held open with a bungee, and knelt inside it cleaning off the parts. Media goes back in the bucket. Buy plastic media for the alloy.
Nice planning on doing the underside of my motor soon not show spec just clean and repainted,a wire brush first mate on the nuts,bolts to remove the crap then take them of,crack them first with a ratchet then windy gun them,when ya removed that long bolt out the diff cradle use a open end on the spanner next the socket instead of tilting the windy gun as the socket me fly of,as for protection try bilt hamber atom mac absolutely great stuff just spray and leave
Areet Adam, on the blasting and coating front, you should give Stella Blast a shout in Chester le Street…..they’ve done all coating and blasting on my mk1 Golf project and they’ve been top notch 🤟🏻
Lubrication really does go a long way with old rusty nuts and bolts! You need some penetration to help things move easier! Wire brush the ends of the exposed threads on the bolts prior to undoing the nuts and also wind the nuts back and forth with your impact gun to help clean the internal threads and be able to wind it off all the way without getting jammed! All the best with your project mate.
Those gaz coilovers are fully adjustable!. Have you tried adjusting the dampening on them? I would see if you can soften them up before replacing them as Gaz are really good coilovers!
I hope this is just the crap on the diff but at 20:45 in the video on the first bolt when you was hitting the 🤬out of it it looked like the diff had a crap appear where the bolt goes through I hope not for your sake but I would have a closer look at it 👍
Funny how a car even that age looks pretty mint bodywork wise but rusty and crusty on the underside.have used lanoguard protection on my new Abarth as to protect it from day one of ownership. Great job so far on your underside restoration.👍🔥👌
Nice job matey and like others have said a wire brush and some wd40/gt85 would go along way,I got something powder coated for my motorbike at elite powder coatings I think it’s called .Just through the tunnel (wallsend)good finish and a quick turnaround 👍🏻
I can see me having this rust issue when I start stripping down my vectra gsi. Good work Adam I would love a escort cosworth myself but they are way out my price range😢
Less paint and welding, mine is around £7500. This includes new ECU, engine loom, sensors, belts, wheel bearings, complete fuel system refurb etc. Inc paint and welding, about £18k. Certainly not cheap by any means, however, I hope once it is done that is the spending almost over.
Clean the threads before heatung and trying to loosen. Should come off pretty easy. Also whats the crack with the engine build will it go in your escos
if someone telt me ten year ago ad be spending 25 mins of me friday neet watching someone undoing nuts and bolts ad tell them they're mental. but here a am. love it!
Just some advice with crusty bolts.. clean the crusty end of the exposed thread before you try taking them out, they probably won't bind up when you get them half way off, good luck with the car👍
Excellent as always Adam! Just some tips that might help not trying to be a smart arse, Try not to use multi spline sockets in general really. Always try and use hex/impact sockets on expected tight/rusty nuts and bolts. During the footage of the first long bolt going through the diff, im not 100% but is there a crack in the alloy casing on the top going across in the same direction of the bolt, thread end of the bolt?
There's something satisfying to me about repairing older cars over modern ones. I'd much rather gain the knowledge to fix a car myself, than take it to a garage. With regards to the old nuts and bolts Sometimes if you can afford it, it's worth simply buying the new nuts and bolts to save you the time for removing them. It's usually the smaller ones which snap anyway, as the larger ones are usually a higher quality and won't break as easy because they're a higher strength. So normally you can get a sacrificail socket and just whack it on the gun it off that way
Hi Adam, really enjoying the series and enjoying watching you get hands on with these Old Fords. What I can't believe is what sort of person would add protectant over rusty parts? doesn;t make sense to me but I guess it takes all sorts!! Keep up the good work. 🙂
Should of soaked those diff housing long bolts in penetrating fluid for several hours and heating up the alloy around them would of freed them up rather than heating the bolt
Hi Adam,you may already have a set of drifts but if not a full set from Machine Mart for a tenner. To remove the rubber bush I would use a Starrett cutter as it would be so much easier and less chance of you getting a nasty cut from the Stanley knife. Can’t wait for the next video mate. Absolutely brilliant 👍
Check out Emanuel for your cars workshop manual here
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988&u=3988421&m=49176&urllink=&afftrack=
Elite Powder coating Howdon Wallsend 👌
Yo braided brake pipes are a decent upgrade and way better than rubber god knows y u keep calling then fuel lines????those lil m4 sensor bolts u snapped just drill and tap simple all u did by welding it was make the metal even harder good luck think yer gunna need it
Hi it is Charlie Ach
I think you’d have a lot less trouble stripping stuff down if you spent 2 minutes cleaning up with a wire brush and a drop of wd40 before going gun how with impact gun 👍
Step 1: spray tf out of everything with WD40 .
Step 2: Fag and a cuppa.
Class videos...wire brush ever thread to clean it and plenty of wd40 less hardship
My thoughts exactly 👍
Buy a gallon of WD40 and spray bottle, he's going to need it
@@LUZ-zv6pq what is a homosexual going to do in step 2 ????
i have never enjoyed seeing some bolts being undone more than this video well done mate
Thanks Brandon👍
Clean the threads prior to trying to undo the nut get a wire wheel attachment for your drill. Loads of wd40 too your trying to take everything off dry. Clean the top of that abs sensor nut with a grinder back to fresh steel before you try welding to it. Done this job so many times it’s a horrible thankless thing your doing great.
So much for following your mates advice I’m sure he said loads of WD40 twice 😊
Dont be shy with a wire brush on the bolt end aswell. As you are winding the nut off, its threads are all getting blocked up with rust n shi*e. Bit of wire brush and a bit wd40. Does help a huge bit.
Keep the episodes coming. Loads of work to do but loving the attention to detail you put into each episode.
Much appreciated Grant
Cracks me up when you say “Millie” the only person I know up do it! Good video fella!!
Fair play doing this for a second time, I did this to the underside of my 205 GTi a few years ago, took me 4 years to complete, never again!
The only tip I can give is don’t loose the enthusiasm, love the vids and love the cars
I own some amazing sockets with teeth in for rounded rusty bolts , saved me in many occasions , was expensive but so worth it , keep the videos coming 😁😁
I’ve been a mechanic for 25 years but I still love to watch other people working on their projects. Like most 80’s boys, I also had a soft spot for the Cossies although I couldn’t dream of affording one. The only tip I would offer is definitely don’t F around with naked flames and grinders when there is a petrol tank in the same room. I’d hate to see her go up in smoke. Keep up the good work mate.
With the ABS stud, I first weld a large flat repair washer, on you get a better weld to the stud, them weld a nut on, but weld on the outside of the nut, not the inside. Good luck👍👍
Cracking vids these. Nice to actually see the work rather than a time-lapse like a lot of other channels. Much prefer these “long-form” videos. 😊
Think its better to have a narrow heat torch flame so that you aim the blue tip onto the work piece for the highest heat.
I assume the rebuild will involve plenty of copper slip or white marine grease on them long diff bolts so they can come apart easy if required again.....
Little tip, Adam always crack off bolts with hand tools before using the impact gun. Because you have no feel with the impact.
He's not Marcus 😂
Spot on mucking them guns are murder for snapping bolts
I was just going to say the same thing hand tool first get the feel
never learn how to get broken ones out though will he 🤷
Good tip Dean. Fortunately most of these are nuts and bolts joined together so if they snap they simply pull out 👍🏼
A red beatiful sackful plenty of rust. Uk is a metal killer of beautiful cars. Cheer up Adam!!.
always use 6 sided sockets for everything possible.
Hi Adam,good job, mate. Pleasure, seeing you get
stuck in
Got a lot on your hands with this but your cracking and getting it done and sharing it with us its great content adam
Thought there was going to be an A&E episode when the knife came out 😱
Wd40 would Definetly helped with this job mate like Paul linfoot said bit wd40 will help ease bolts out 👍🏽👍🏽
Can’t wait for your next episode mate was gutted when the video hit 25:59 looking forward to the next one and to see it completed 👍🏼👍🏼
Love the "I will not use WD" approach
And clean up the threads
Wow, those bolts really didn’t want to move.
Well done Adam, you’ve made great progress❤.
Warming up the differential casing where the bolts passed through may of helped. As long as you don't over do the heat so as to not anneal the aluminium, just enough to expand the metal and break the bond with the bolt. Evenso good job, where there's a will there's away, no damage done and that's the main thing. Looking forward to seeing it all cleaned up, painted and with new parts where needed.
Bit of a tip for you Adam, wire brush & WD40 the rust from the threads of the bolt before trying to undo 👍
Precise videos attention detail as usual,so glad you’re enjoying your new car. Lovely to see a classic being saved.
i got my rangerover chassis sandblasted by a company below the queen alexander bridge about 5yrs ago, cracking job, not a bad price
Tip when a bolt or nut starts binding up, gun it in and out, in a out. Will clear the threads of rust, which is why it’s binding up. 👍
Loving the dedication to make this right.
I can't believe how rusty everything is though.
Yet again Adam u r a real have a go bloke mate I love watching what u do just having a go at things I wouldn't even try ow & yes the uggaaaduggaaa gun was in full effect top man mate keep the videos coming it really makes my day seeing what u can do
That went reasonably well...
Clean and tidy on the rebuild will do it...
That and the powder coating...
You got a lot done, there...
🤙🙂💯✅🇳🇿
That yellow number plate screw cap over the number 6 would really iratate me Adam. @16:00
Wow , can’t believe the rust on that lot defo needed doing , it’s going to look great once done , good luck 👍👍
I did this exact job on my old SL last year. It’s a complete stinker but once it’s back together it looks mint. Good luck
Having an oxy-acetylene torch completely changes these kinds of jobs. I live in a rust prone area and have dealt with every sad situation associated with frozen and broken bolts. With an oxy-acetylene torch, I'm not afraid of anything. With a welding tip, you can get a fastener red hot with a great deal of precision. A mapp or propane torch can help but it doesn't get hot enough. They nut welding trick also helps but with an oxy torch, you rarely get to that point.
This is definitely what this car needs Adam ,it will certainly add money to the car also ,have a good Christmas fella 👍😉💪
Thanks, you too Alan
Have a Sierra myself and had read beam out I swear on rusty bolts to open and tighten back and forth might take longer but never fails me and the end of the bolts a run of a wire brush
Adam sent the brake calliper’s across to blast off NE across in Dunston Gateshead. Get them vapour blasted. Cheap as chips and they are superb
For the alloy diff housing I’d recommend aqua blasting it. It will come up like new and then just seal it with clear coat.
When you were trying to get the rest of the ABS Sensor out, I immediately thought this is one of those jobs you start as 'I'll just give it a bit of a cleanup' and then 2yrs later you're halfway through nut and bolt resto. 😄
Hints and tips for you...........keep going pal. These videos are brilliant. Loving it ❤
Nice work Adam, the diff you can get dry ice blasted to clean it up as new, d
Adam! Superb as always, the videos and your delivery getting better and better. A normal bloke with normal tools getting it done himself and learning his car inside out. Your growing and so will the Cossie collection!!! Perhaps be in Paul's level soon enough. Regards from the south coast.
Breakdown and hours worked on it, would be interesting, compared to a main dealer , prices would be massive from them. You're doing a cracking job, saving it from the scrap yard. 👍
Lanoguard rust protection is good I coated the pressed metal /painted parts on my polo gti in it as it only had 9k on it when I bought it
Might as well get the diff aqua blasted you’ve done all the hard work
YES !!! finally a video where you ring Paul !!! 😆😆😆🤣🤣🤣 i love it, great vid again Adam 🙂
Yes Adam,keep at it son,I’ll be very disappointed if you’re not working on the car Christmas Day morning 👍👍👍👍👍👍
When uve gone to the hassle adam taking it all apart get the diff soda blasted not dear put mat clear coat on it then it will look original and get the arms an beam 2pk satin with clear coat satin to protect it the powder coat dose in look wright just saying that's what ide do best of luck with her an ur doining a good job
Adam ! hey bud Scott from NZ here mate , good on ya for rebuilding the Brake calipers , . OR THOUGH one thing i know i wish you had of done is had sand blasted them , or and zinc plated them (goldey type / alloy looking finish on them ) to look like OME better than new , (LIKE , HONDA / NISSAN / TOYOTA ETC though the range )
Always enjoy the videos on your channel fair play to ya 👍👍👍
Class you Adam mate. Hope your channel explodes - you deserve it. Keep up the graft mara 💪
Little tip for bolt removal mate ,get a tin of plus Gas .amazing stuff!
Brilliant as always mate. Love your videos mate. Just a guy in his garage working on his cars he loves. Oh and we seen you grabbing the roasting hot drop link 😂
Hi Adam I used Stella blast up the back of Chester Le Street near to Pelton took some parts off my truck really good job loads off colours for the powder coating
Cracking video. The rear hubs and carriers look quite Sierra like. A horrible job for sure but it will look great when finished. For the axle casing, I've used a blast gun attachment on my compressor, and then made myself a cardboard blast cabinet to catch the media. I've even used a dumpy held open with a bungee, and knelt inside it cleaning off the parts. Media goes back in the bucket. Buy plastic media for the alloy.
Nice planning on doing the underside of my motor soon not show spec just clean and repainted,a wire brush first mate on the nuts,bolts to remove the crap then take them of,crack them first with a ratchet then windy gun them,when ya removed that long bolt out the diff cradle use a open end on the spanner next the socket instead of tilting the windy gun as the socket me fly of,as for protection try bilt hamber atom mac absolutely great stuff just spray and leave
Excellent video mate, definitely start wire brushing the exposed threads before you wind them through
Brilliant video Adam , nothing seems to faze you , loving the project,it's going to be awesome when it's finished.
Areet Adam, on the blasting and coating front, you should give Stella Blast a shout in Chester le Street…..they’ve done all coating and blasting on my mk1 Golf project and they’ve been top notch 🤟🏻
Lubrication really does go a long way with old rusty nuts and bolts! You need some penetration to help things move easier! Wire brush the ends of the exposed threads on the bolts prior to undoing the nuts and also wind the nuts back and forth with your impact gun to help clean the internal threads and be able to wind it off all the way without getting jammed! All the best with your project mate.
Adam a breakdown of the costs would be great cos if u took that job 2 a garage it would cost a lot of dough
Clean the top of the nut so it's shiny before you weld adam just keeps it clean less porosity in the weld much stronger ❤
spent last couple of days watching all the videos. Great work. look forward to the next upload. something about a Red Ford great colour
Cd coatings in Cumbria for powder coating definitely
Great job mate , I recommend using a needle gun on rusted bolt heads works a treat
Those gaz coilovers are fully adjustable!. Have you tried adjusting the dampening on them? I would see if you can soften them up before replacing them as Gaz are really good coilovers!
Another REALLY great video!
Thanks Adam!
LOVE to see this, and hopefully get the guts to do something similar :D
I hope this is just the crap on the diff but at 20:45 in the video on the first bolt when you was hitting the 🤬out of it it looked like the diff had a crap appear where the bolt goes through I hope not for your sake but I would have a closer look at it 👍
Funny how a car even that age looks pretty mint bodywork wise but rusty and crusty on the underside.have used lanoguard protection on my new Abarth as to protect it from day one of ownership. Great job so far on your underside restoration.👍🔥👌
Love the content really enjoy it. My favorite part of all your videos is just to listen to you say the word Aga Dugger gun 👍
You create some of my favourite content 👍🏻 enjoyed this a lot 👍🏻
Buy an impact universal joint. Will help if you cant get directly on a bolt with rattler gun
Love watching your videos, makes me feel like im back at home
Adam what happened to the WD40 MATE
It will be mega when its done, no better feeling than putting fresh powdercoated bits back on
Nice job matey and like others have said a wire brush and some wd40/gt85 would go along way,I got something powder coated for my motorbike at elite powder coatings I think it’s called .Just through the tunnel (wallsend)good finish and a quick turnaround 👍🏻
Great work adam❤
I can see me having this rust issue when I start stripping down my vectra gsi. Good work Adam I would love a escort cosworth myself but they are way out my price range😢
Awesome video loving this restoration 🇬🇧👍🇬🇧👍
Less paint and welding, mine is around £7500. This includes new ECU, engine loom, sensors, belts, wheel bearings, complete fuel system refurb etc. Inc paint and welding, about £18k. Certainly not cheap by any means, however, I hope once it is done that is the spending almost over.
Clean the threads before heatung and trying to loosen. Should come off pretty easy. Also whats the crack with the engine build will it go in your escos
This is a great project. Big job as I've said before you background helps you thanks for sharing this journey
if someone telt me ten year ago ad be spending 25 mins of me friday neet watching someone undoing nuts and bolts ad tell them they're mental. but here a am. love it!
Just some advice with crusty bolts.. clean the crusty end of the exposed thread before you try taking them out, they probably won't bind up when you get them half way off, good luck with the car👍
Adam please post a video every day during Christmas as I’d sooner watch you and the cossie any day cheeRS Jacko 😊
Impressive coatings in Darlo good for powder coat mate as he’s a cat lad he knows what to no fill with coat like some places do
Excellent as always Adam! Just some tips that might help not trying to be a smart arse, Try not to use multi spline sockets in general really. Always try and use hex/impact sockets on expected tight/rusty nuts and bolts. During the footage of the first long bolt going through the diff, im not 100% but is there a crack in the alloy casing on the top going across in the same direction of the bolt, thread end of the bolt?
Haha gone from being a running driver to a full resto 😂 love it
If you wire brush the treads before undoing your bolts it will help
There's something satisfying to me about repairing older cars over modern ones. I'd much rather gain the knowledge to fix a car myself, than take it to a garage. With regards to the old nuts and bolts
Sometimes if you can afford it, it's worth simply buying the new nuts and bolts to save you the time for removing them. It's usually the smaller ones which snap anyway, as the larger ones are usually a higher quality and won't break as easy because they're a higher strength. So normally you can get a sacrificail socket and just whack it on the gun it off that way
Hi Adam, really enjoying the series and enjoying watching you get hands on with these Old Fords. What I can't believe is what sort of person would add protectant over rusty parts? doesn;t make sense to me but I guess it takes all sorts!! Keep up the good work. 🙂
Love your videos buddy nice that u so precise about doing stuff and very well at explaining things big thumbs up 👍
i feel special being on your own video mate , lol , good work , looking forward to watching your progress
Should of soaked those diff housing long bolts in penetrating fluid for several hours and heating up the alloy around them would of freed them up rather than heating the bolt
Gaz will send springs at any rates they ain’t dear either mate
Hi Adam,you may already have a set of drifts but if not a full set from Machine Mart for a tenner.
To remove the rubber bush I would use a Starrett cutter as it would be so much easier and less chance of you getting a nasty cut from the Stanley knife. Can’t wait for the next video mate.
Absolutely brilliant 👍
Top tip Adam let your welds cool completely before trying to undo anything 👍👍