Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to do this. I understand it much better now, actually I think your the only one that has taken the time to do this, I will spread this video all over FB.
I don't know if you can do the same as in bambu slicer. But I paint the edge with either a circle or Speer. and then I use Fill in the area that is enclosed.
If you know how, can you show how to print supports in a different material? i've been looking for the setting but can't find it. I've done it with bambu/orca but i can't find it anywhere in the anycubic slicer. would use this for when i'm printing in PLA and just want the support interface to be PETG for easy removal and cleaner underside
I do exactly that, using PETG as the support interface, but you have to use the AnycubicSlicerNext application to do this. Anycubic based this on ORCA slicer, so it has all the usual ORCA slicer functionality plus the Kobra 3 remote print through Cloud support. It also has printing through LAN support now for the Kobra 3, but I was unable to get it to find my Kobra 3 when doing a local search of my LAN, so would be interesting if anyone else managed to get the LAN printing support to work.
Hello, you can add more brim width to your tower so that is more securely stuck to the plate. The setting is in "Others", then you go down to the option "Brim width", make the brim width larger.
Hey can you tell me how to set up the Anycubic Slicer to a 0.2 mm nozzle? I got an error code everytime. Code: E10236 nozzle_size_mismatch.....but i switched it to 0.2 in the settings
Hmm. Not quite sure, it could be that your printing layer height and width is way bigger than your nozzle max and min size. Check those in the machine setting.
You can press Strg and go over you region you wany to stain. Use the mouse wheel to adjust the smart infill angle. This way you are getting way faster....
layer lines are still to this day so BAD and makes FDM printing USELESS...... unless doing prototypes or parts if you are doing figures stop wasting your money!!! it looks horrible will look horrible and will ALWAYS LOOK HORRIBLE.
Man, I love your enthsiasm. Saw your Q1 Pro videos first which led to me getting one. You deserve a lot more subs. Keep it up!
Thank you! Hope you are enjoying your q1 pro.
I just bought this 3D printer and I didn't know hot to do the color selction and all so it's been very helpful, thanks !
You're welcome, glad you found this helpful.
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to do this. I understand it much better now, actually I think your the only one that has taken the time to do this, I will spread this video all over FB.
Thank you for the kind words.
At 9:33 - how did you get that simulated nozzle view?
There's a slider at the bottom, if you move that the simulated nozzle will show.
I don't know if you can do the same as in bambu slicer. But I paint the edge with either a circle or Speer. and then I use Fill in the area that is enclosed.
Yea it does work like that. If the space is fully enclosed then you can use the fill tool and it will fill the empty space in the middle.
This helped a lot thank you bro
Glad it helped
Thanks for sharing.. new in this 3D world and I got Kobra 3. Your videos are very helpful. Great Job! :)
Glad I could help! Thank you.
If you know how, can you show how to print supports in a different material? i've been looking for the setting but can't find it. I've done it with bambu/orca but i can't find it anywhere in the anycubic slicer.
would use this for when i'm printing in PLA and just want the support interface to be PETG for easy removal and cleaner underside
I do exactly that, using PETG as the support interface, but you have to use the AnycubicSlicerNext application to do this. Anycubic based this on ORCA slicer, so it has all the usual ORCA slicer functionality plus the Kobra 3 remote print through Cloud support. It also has printing through LAN support now for the Kobra 3, but I was unable to get it to find my Kobra 3 when doing a local search of my LAN, so would be interesting if anyone else managed to get the LAN printing support to work.
@@katrinadavis5756 wait wait wait so are there two slicers from Anycubic? I thought they were one in the same
@@vablackbelt Yeah, 2 different slicers from Anycubic which can be found on their site under the Firmware & Updates page.
@@katrinadavis5756 well that's stupid lol
@@katrinadavis5756 appreciate the help!
Hey how are ya I tried printing the hulk but that tower in the back keeps breaking off is there a way to keep it from not breaking off the plate
Hello, you can add more brim width to your tower so that is more securely stuck to the plate. The setting is in "Others", then you go down to the option "Brim width", make the brim width larger.
@@Scratch3DPrinting thanks I’ll try that
Sorry to bother you I did what you said but only the hulk had more brim
Hey can you tell me how to set up the Anycubic Slicer to a 0.2 mm nozzle? I got an error code everytime. Code: E10236 nozzle_size_mismatch.....but i switched it to 0.2 in the settings
Hmm. Not quite sure, it could be that your printing layer height and width is way bigger than your nozzle max and min size. Check those in the machine setting.
You can press Strg and go over you region you wany to stain. Use the mouse wheel to adjust the smart infill angle. This way you are getting way faster....
Thanks for the tips, I'll do that next time.
if anyone use bambu then you know this is the same including the preset default setting.
Yes it is the same, but Orcaslicer is open source so it has more potential to be better and everyone can use it on all kinds of 3d printers.
Way too complicated hopefully Anycubic adds a fill section tool soon
It is but the results is amazing!
layer lines are still to this day so BAD and makes FDM printing USELESS...... unless doing prototypes or parts if you are doing figures stop wasting your money!!! it looks horrible will look horrible and will ALWAYS LOOK HORRIBLE.
Yeah that's true, but it still looks cool and unique. I love FDM printing.