I love the added extras,that state 'in the US', and I'm glad you out those bits in. yes, gloves and a mask/ very well ventilated area should be used for all of these, as inhaling any of these is really bad for your lungs. I find it interesting how the generic dye in the US is so much worse than the generic UK Dylon. kind of glad we don't have RIT😂
Yeah! Good that it's appreciated 🙃 I'm really glad I ran those polls, b/c otherwise I never would have known how scarce it all was elsewhere! Rit is SO ubiquitous here, it blows my mind it hasn't taken over everywhere else. And yes, it didn't escape my notice--nor surprise me--that the US standard is crappier than the UK standard 🤣
Tiny note, I haven't watched the rest of the video, but inhaling acid dye powder is still not very good for your lungs. If you work with powdered dyes a lot consider using a glovebox or a respirator.
Thank you!! I mean, I'm totally biased, but I agree 🤣 I think most of people's fear of the more "complicated" dyes is just that they have never been taught how to use them! 🤞 Maybe it'll pick up. Thank you for dropping by and watching!
Thank you for a useful video! I don't have any silk (except kimonos) or wool fabric so I won't be trying the acid dyes but the fiber reactive ones sound great. Definitely will try these on my old cotton and linen clothes.
Glad it was useful!! That's definitely the issue with acid dyes, you have to have bank to buy the good stuff to use it 🤣 I tend to use it more for yarn dyeing and silk painting. And that's awesome! I'm always here if you have questions! 🧡
What a great video. Thank you for creating this. I thiught i had finally decided to dye my silk organza with RIT dye but i see this might not be a good idea. What attracted me was the ease of creating the right colour. I think it will be incredibly hard to get the right shade with acid dye. I'm so scared to ruin the fabric 🙈
You're welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed! It's true, RIT is great for mixing, but you can do that with acid dye, too! And you'll get a much more vibrant result. It also has a lot more options, so you may be able to find the color you need without mixing. Check both the Dharma acid dyed and the Jacquard, because they have different colors! The great thing with acid dye is testing the color is pretty simple. You can mix up a small batch and test on swatches without having to go through the heating/setting process. I can help you if you want. How many yards do you need to dye?
Unfortunately, no. It helps a little with wash fastness, but not light fastness, so it's better than nothing, but you will won't get anywhere near the permanence (or vibrance) of fiber reactive or acid dyes.
I'd never heard of it before, I had to look it up. It doesn't look like dye so much as a spray paint, maybe a thinner version of a spray paint. Paints and dyes are two totally different monsters, but I'd say, if you're looking to refinish something in your car, or some other similar type of vinyl-like material, this probably does the job it's intended to do. To recolor fabric, I probably wouldn't use it. It's way more expensive, and likely creates a really stiff, non-breathable finish like acrylics (although without having used it, I can only guess, so take what I say with a grain of salt!)
The last time I dyed anything was when I needed a striped yellow shirt for a cosplay and could only find one in tan, so I mixed turmeric and vinegar in warm water in a metal bowl on the counter and soaked it overnight. It worked and the shirt is still yellow two years later and hasn't bled on any of my other clothes, so... success? 😂
I looked at Dharma after watching the Closet Historian's ice dying videos but honestly I think the level of ingredients and measuring is too much for me. I got some Ritt on ebay last year because Dylon has no good red options, but then couldn't work out how to actually use it, as I'm used to the complete process being open packet, tip contents into washing machine, add wet fabric, run machine. Run again with detergent. You don't even have to add salt anymore as it's included with the dye now. I still want to try ice dying one day though, if I can find a UK seller of Dharma dyes and the stuff that goes with them (also no dawn soap here)
I've never tried ice dyeing, so I don't know what extra steps are involved, but I'm sure it's more work than a standard tub dye. You can do the machine method with Rit, it's just never going to turn out as vivid as you'd like because the water won't get hot enough. For that you really need the stovetop method, or FR dyes, which you can do in the machine, but you still have to add the soda ash in steps, etc. And you need a LOT of salt and soda ash for the machine. The only way to get the Dharma dyes is through their website, sadly. It's a small business out of California, so they're not hugely distributed elsewhere, though like I mentioned in the video, they do ship internationally. Just not sure the shipping is cost effective 😪 You SHOULD be able to find the Jacquard procion dyes, though, in art stores. Not super common, but I did have a look on their website, and there are a few shops scattered throughout. And you can get soda ash from Amazon! Might be cheaper, again, because of shipping.
Short answer: You pay somebody to take it apart, use it as a pattern, and make it in a cooler-toned fabric. Or you do it yourself, if you have the skills. Long answer: I would think long and hard about whether you hate the color more than you love the blouse, because it's likely you may ruin it trying. I really wish I could give you a more satisfying answer, and while it may seem like that's an easy thing to do, it's actually quite a difficult thing to achieve, and if it was my blouse, I would not attempt it, even with almost 20 years of experience working with dyes--for three reasons. Firstly, and most important, you don't have any extra fabric to swatch/test colors with, which means whatever you decide to do, you only get one shot. There's no room for experimenting beforehand to see what works and what doesn't. And if the colors don't work the way you expect...game over. Secondly, orange is notorious for not playing well with others. If you're wanting like a blue tone or a green, not gonna happen 😪 You can try to dye it a dark gray, or use black (although you'll never get a true black with polyester.) Maybe a dark brown. But those colors are all a mix of other colors, and depending on the actual color your blouse is, how it was dyed, and how you do the dye process, it could pick up different colors in those mixes than you're expecting. It might be fine! It might look fab! Or...it may turn out baby poop brown. 🤷♀️ There's no way of knowing without doing a test swatch, first. A more reliable color to achieve would be to overdye it red, and then take the red down using, say, a blue-gray. It'll still be red. But it'll be a cool red, if that makes sense. Finally, it's polyester, which means you only have two options: Poly iDye, or RIT Dyemore (don't bother with regular RIT! It's not strong enough to overdye poly.) This means you'll have to note your precise colors and how much you use, the temperature you heat it to and for how long it's in the dyebath, because even if you use the fixative RIT sells (which I would strongly recommend using), it'll eventually fade and you'll have to redo the whole process. Which is why it would be a lot less trouble, money and stress to take it apart and use it as a pattern. Good luck!
@FantasticalFolliesCostuming thank you for answering my question. It all seems like more work than I want to do! I'm going to find someone to give this too who can wear orange colors.
Hey I want to dye a 100% cotton denim rug made of a bunch of recycled denim sewn together so there's a lot of different blues, I want to dye it into a black colorway and I was wondering if it's possible to dye it and obtain different shades of black? I'm thinking since there's a lot of different shades of blue on this rug I might be able to dye it and obtain different shades of black. Also which products/technic would you use to do it?
So that's going to be pretty tricky to do. Dyeing anything black--especially cellulosic fabrics (like cotton) is an advanced technique. You would definitely need to use fiber reactive dyes. Not Rit. Rit's black is more grey than anything. But the thing with black is that it's difficult to get a true black from any given dye. If you go to Dharma Trading and look at their various blacks, they all have different properties, and dyeing different shades of denim may pick up the colors in the mix that you may not want it to pick up. For example, browns and taupes or weirder shades of blue or purple. I would contact them directly if you're committed to it and see which of the blacks they'd suggest you use, and if they have any tips for you. They're slow to respond sometimes, but their responses are always well-informed. But I'd suggest you practice dyeing a couple of times with less advanced colors, first. Or pick a different dark color, instead, and get the effect you want.
Acid dye does not work on cotton. It may stain your fabric slightly, but it will not chemically adhere to the fibers. You'll need fiber reactive dye for that.
I LOVE the concept of acid dyes. And some of the natural ones can be done in a way they're pretty colourfast as well, I've been saving onion skins for a year... Unfortunately I don't do a lot with wool (makes me itch) and can't afford much silk so I'm mostly using cotton and linen. Boo. Also, I'm having zero luck finding any non-RIT dyes (well, ok, someone carries Tintex or Dylon but very limited colours) around here, and the prices are as obscene as RIT. Eight bucks for a 2/3 ounce jar, almost $40 for the 8 oz jar. And Amazon wants almost fifteen bucks per 2/3 oz. Sometimes I hate shopping Canadian. Maybe I need to make a list and get some delivered at my stepsister's place stateside.... till then I'm stuck wtih RIT. Which honestly I haven't had problems with the dye process or the colourfastness so far (that fixative usually works pretty well) but holy gods is it NOT UV-stable. I wore my first hand-sewn shirt that I dyed with Rit out in the garden last year and there's a HUGE difference between the colour on the inside and the colour on the outside. If it wasn't in the mending heap (armpits, bane of my existence) I'd just re-dye it. And RIT worked beautifully on some wool blend that I made into a winter coat. It's like a blanket weave with wool pile so it didn't dye the polyester blanket part but it did a great job on the pile so there's little bits of the original magenta peeking out from the lovely grape popsicle purple I got with it, and that coat is never going to be washed and doesn't get worn in strong sun too often so it should be OK. So far has not faded in the closet. I do have a question though, why do you add the vinegar or soda ash at the end? I've been watching several other youtubers dyeing things and I think the Closet Historian always soaked her cottons in soda ash first, and ChemKnits often starts with the vinegar in before she puts the dye in, though the timing of acid really depends on what she's going for.
Yeah, I don't get to use the acid dyes as much as I'd like because of how expensive wool is. The silk dyeing I tend to do is usually more in the painting aspect vs the tub dye (solid color) method, since you can get pretty much any color taffeta or dupioni or whatever you want without the fuss. To answer your question, they don't get added at the end, they get added midway. Adding the vinegar or soda ash is what chemically bonds the dye to the fabric, so when you're tub dyeing you want to give your fabric some time to absorb the dye before you fix it. As far as the vinegar goes, I have no idea why she adds it at the beginning, the only thing I can think of is that she's using a different technique. I've never seen that done. Soda ash, on the other hand, when you add it depends on the technique you're going for. For example, if you're tie dyeing or ice dyeing or whatever, something NOT solid, you'll want to soak it first in the soda ash and manually add the unpolluted dye to the fiber. This is because soda ash is what causes the dye to chemically deteriorate, so if you add it to the dye, then you might run out of time to use the dye before you're finished doing whatever it is you're doing.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming OK thank you! I think I'm starting to understand some of the chemistry with the fibre-reactive dyes, only using soda ash in advance when you're doing things like ice dye where it's a long-term thing BUT there's a surplus of dye, or tie dye where you're not looking for even colour and you're not soaking in it, just applying it and whatever sticks, sticks, short duration one and done.What I understand from watching Chemknits for rather a while is that she uses acid at different times depending on how she wants the colour to strike, she's not always going for solild colours, and I think adding it earlier on can enhance the tonal variations or speckles she's going for. Now if only I can find some fibre-reactive dyes for a not obscene price!
I dont understand how such heat doesn t ruin the fibre, especially wool and especially non-superwash wool. Weve all.shrunk sweaters by putting them in the wrong wash so whats up ?
Well, I mean, speak for yourself, I've never shrunk a sweater :P It's not the heat itself that felts wool. It's the combination of heat + moisture + friction that does it. So it's the other clothes in the machine that cause it to felt. That's why when you're machine felting knit items, you have to put stuff in with it to get the desired result. In contrast, when you're dyeing wool, it's in a large pot and the agitation is much gentler, and if you're doing it correctly, it has enough room to move around in the water, so that there's no friction, and therefore no danger.
just curious, what happens if you slip up and use Iodized salt? I have not dyed anything before, nor do I plan to, but its always helpful to know what your in for given seemingly small blunders.
I'm not sure! My educated guess is that, because the salt helps the dye bond to the fiber, and adding iodine probably gets in the way of that, either you get a much less concentrated color, or the dye barely sticks at all 🤷♀️ That being said, I keep my dye salt with my dye supplies and my food (iodized) salt in my pantry, so it's not hard to choose the right one 🧡
Oh yeah. A gazillion times. Same deal, it works, but it fades. Tye dyeing with fiber reactive dyes, though, is easy enough. Dharma sells cute little kits you can buy, too, and then you get more vibrant, permanent color. It's actually easier and less labor intensive than F.R. tub dyeing like I did in the video!
Awesome video thank you! The thing I have been most interested in is making my 'blacks' stay black; and I was considering making a black linen pirate shirt but worried about fade. What do you recommend for refreshing faded blacks?
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it! I've never had an issue with my blacks fading, personally. I think a lot of that has to do with how you wash it. Separate load, cold water. I line dry a lot of my clothes to avoid the screen prints on my concert tees peeling, I'd bet that's helped them stay dark, too. Dye wise, a true black is the hardest color to achieve using any type of dye. DT has a "jet black" fiber reactive dye that comes close, but it's a hot water dye, unlike the rest of the FRs. It's definitely not a beginner's technique and I recommend that you get some dye jobs under your belt before you attempt it. Rit does sell a "Back to black" kit made specifically for that purpose, but I've never used it, and can't speak for its washfastness. I would say, make your black shirt. Don't let the worry of what MIGHT happen long in the future prevent you from making what you want. It's a pirate shirt, even if it does fade in a few years, it'd only look MORE like a pirate shirt if it looks well worn! 🧡
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming So... What I'm learning (still) is my faded black - and not because it's been through the washing machine - ever. Utility kilt, which is large, heavy, and 65% polyester, 35% cotton... Could be over dyed back to black. But I'm going to need a full on cauldron, and a campfire... I was hoping you had some miracle answer. ;p
@@lynn858 I wish I could!! Black's really hard, though, and with it mostly being polyester, you've got an ever bigger hurdle. I'd say, get yourself some black Rit Dyemore, add at LEAST one more bottle more than the recommended amount for the weight of your dry fabric, and crank up the fire. Poly blends should be able to handle a 200-220° bath temp, and then leave it in a long time, and use the fixative after. And ventilate. If the regular Rit smells, I can't imagine how bad the synthetic blend is 🫣
@@lynn858Honestly, I use diluted with medium black fabric paint for dark fabrics in an airbrush and it works like a charm to refresh faded blacks and it works like a charm on any kind of fabric without really any changes in texture. On thicker fabrics even acrylics diluted to airbrush consistency with fabric medium worked but I wouldn't risk it with very silky fabric.
I went to buy some dye from DT a while back & the shipping cost was more than my order😭. I had to cancel it cause $30 in shipping on a $20 order was just too much for me. I haven't been able to save up enough to order any dye from them yet cause of that. Maybe the shipping costs are better now but they weren't then
Yeah, the shipping can be tough! I will say, though, it's not any more expensive than any other small business who utilizes USPS. Shipping in general is cost prohibitive right now, and I'm right there with you, sometimes I just can't justify the purchase because the shipping's more. But that's been the case for other companies, too. With Dharma, they ship out of CA, so the shipping's calculated by weight and zone, so the further away and heavier your order, the more it'll cost. That 5 lb bag of soda ash burns me every time. But that bag lasts me like 2 yrs of frequent dyeing, and if you're just starting out, you could order a smaller amount (or use Amazon for that bit, and just buy the dye!) I try to combat it by buying smart. They also sell pfd fabric and yarn (including CHEAP silk organza, like 7 bucks a yard, beautiful colored silk chiffon and habotai, cotton voile, velveteen, etc.) So I'll think ahead to my next few projects and wait until I can order a bunch of stuff, so the order to shipping ratio isn't so unbalanced. I also always buy at least one extra dye whenever I order, of a color I think I'd like to use in future, because 2 oz of dye rarely adds enough weight for the postage to change, and then I have it for future use and don't have to spend $4 to ship $2 of dye. This doesn't work for every budget, of course, but it does come out cheaper that way 🧡
I don't have a lot of experience with the substance, but given that it's plastic, probably RIT Dyemore or Jacquard Poly iDye are your only options. Those are meant to dye synthetics. Good quality fabric paint may be more effective, I've done a lot of hand painting on synthetic dance costumes with good results.
I've only ever used Rit, just to refresh some faded black clothes, which it didn't do very well. 😅 All the rest of these seem like quite a lot of work and quite a lot of risk of dying stuff you don't want dyed, tho.
Black dye's very difficult to do successfully, with Rit impossible, esp for a novice. Even with the other types, it takes a lot of extra dye and attention. 100% do not recommend 😆 It's really not that much work. Like maybe takes 5 mins of prep time, tops, outside of the standard stuff you should do with all dyes, like pre washing your fabric. I can and have dyed a batch of acid and/or light-colored fiber reactive dye in a single lunchbreak 🤷♀️ And I always wear my hair dye/cleaning shirt, but honestly I've never stained it. With dye, at least.
I am right about it. Been working with the stuff professionally for almost 20 years, I know what I'm talking about. RIT has its purpose but in the end it's chemistry. You can't argue with scientific fact. The results will depend on the fiber content of your seatbelt. Either they're poly and RIT's your only option, and you'll get a light dye, or it's nylon and it'll take the dye. Either way, the sunlight is going to fade it out.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming interesting. I believe they are polyester, but i wouldnt bet on it because i have no experience with fabrics. Either way, would you recommend i return the rit and go with an acid dye? Btw, thank you for responding so quickly!
You're welcome! Sorry this one is not so fast 😆 So unless you're on a super tight budget and the RIT was costly, it can't hurt to try it with that, first. This may be one of the few times where RIT is really your only option. If you were certain it wasn nylon and not poly, I'd say go ahead and get the acid dye, but since you're not, and the only true way to determine fiber is to do a burn test (which, while a lot of fun, isn't great to do on your seatbelt!), I would start with the RIT and see where you get. If it takes color but is faded/pale, you're working with poly and that's as good as it's gonna get, and if takes the color, you can redye with acid dyes when it fades.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming no worries. Thanks for responding period. My mechanic thinks the seatbelts are nylon. Do u think the acid dye can damage the seatbelts?? Also, if i decide to go the rit route, would u recommend their rit color stay or whatever product? Ive heard it could bleed. Also, fhanks for ur patience!!
For poly/cotton, I would use Jacquard's iDye poly. Not ideal and limited colors, but it dyes poly better than basic RIT. You'll need a LARGE dye pot and good ventilation.
Technically, that wouldn't be dyeing, that's painting, but yeah, I'm sure that'd work. It'll definitely stiffen your fabric, though, that's something to consider. I use acrylic on fabric all the time for my cosplay stuff. Texture's not great, but it's decent coverage. Might be good to add in a fabric medium to help with the washfastness and the texture. You could possible use fabric paint instead of acrylic even, though that might be a little costly. 🤔🤔
this is so awesome thanks for posting I'm going to watch and rewatch this until it's muscle memory lmao...
I love the added extras,that state 'in the US', and I'm glad you out those bits in. yes, gloves and a mask/ very well ventilated area should be used for all of these, as inhaling any of these is really bad for your lungs. I find it interesting how the generic dye in the US is so much worse than the generic UK Dylon. kind of glad we don't have RIT😂
Yeah! Good that it's appreciated 🙃 I'm really glad I ran those polls, b/c otherwise I never would have known how scarce it all was elsewhere! Rit is SO ubiquitous here, it blows my mind it hasn't taken over everywhere else. And yes, it didn't escape my notice--nor surprise me--that the US standard is crappier than the UK standard 🤣
Tiny note, I haven't watched the rest of the video, but inhaling acid dye powder is still not very good for your lungs. If you work with powdered dyes a lot consider using a glovebox or a respirator.
Absolutely! None of the dyes are safe to inhale...I usually just batch mine up outside, but a respirator is definitely a good idea for frequent use.
You have beautiful energy, thanks for this great content👍👍👍
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
This is so incredibly useful. I hope the algorithm picks this up. More people need to see this.
Thank you!! I mean, I'm totally biased, but I agree 🤣 I think most of people's fear of the more "complicated" dyes is just that they have never been taught how to use them! 🤞 Maybe it'll pick up. Thank you for dropping by and watching!
So much info. Thank you for all the suggestions & useful info. 😊👍🏼
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful!
Thank you for a useful video! I don't have any silk (except kimonos) or wool fabric so I won't be trying the acid dyes but the fiber reactive ones sound great. Definitely will try these on my old cotton and linen clothes.
Glad it was useful!! That's definitely the issue with acid dyes, you have to have bank to buy the good stuff to use it 🤣 I tend to use it more for yarn dyeing and silk painting. And that's awesome! I'm always here if you have questions! 🧡
Thank you so much for the tutorial! It's amazingingly detailed!
You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it 😎
What a great video. Thank you for creating this. I thiught i had finally decided to dye my silk organza with RIT dye but i see this might not be a good idea. What attracted me was the ease of creating the right colour. I think it will be incredibly hard to get the right shade with acid dye. I'm so scared to ruin the fabric 🙈
You're welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed!
It's true, RIT is great for mixing, but you can do that with acid dye, too! And you'll get a much more vibrant result. It also has a lot more options, so you may be able to find the color you need without mixing. Check both the Dharma acid dyed and the Jacquard, because they have different colors!
The great thing with acid dye is testing the color is pretty simple. You can mix up a small batch and test on swatches without having to go through the heating/setting process. I can help you if you want. How many yards do you need to dye?
Wow! Those swatches are crazy different
Right!! Some more than others, but that was an eye opening experiment for me!
really appreciating this whole video! yay!
I'm so glad, I put a lot of work into it--thank you for watching!
Yes thank you for your info
You're very welcome! Glad you found it helpful!
Rit sells a color fixative to add to the first wash after dying. Does that negate the most significant fading issue?
Unfortunately, no. It helps a little with wash fastness, but not light fastness, so it's better than nothing, but you will won't get anywhere near the permanence (or vibrance) of fiber reactive or acid dyes.
Really cool, I leraned a lot
That's awesome! Thanks for watching! 😊
Any opinion on Dupli-Color High Performance Vinyl and Fabric canned dye?
I'd never heard of it before, I had to look it up. It doesn't look like dye so much as a spray paint, maybe a thinner version of a spray paint. Paints and dyes are two totally different monsters, but I'd say, if you're looking to refinish something in your car, or some other similar type of vinyl-like material, this probably does the job it's intended to do. To recolor fabric, I probably wouldn't use it. It's way more expensive, and likely creates a really stiff, non-breathable finish like acrylics (although without having used it, I can only guess, so take what I say with a grain of salt!)
The last time I dyed anything was when I needed a striped yellow shirt for a cosplay and could only find one in tan, so I mixed turmeric and vinegar in warm water in a metal bowl on the counter and soaked it overnight. It worked and the shirt is still yellow two years later and hasn't bled on any of my other clothes, so... success? 😂
LOL!!!! Same can be said about my kitchen counter after making curry 🤣🤣🤣 Good idea!
The wool I want to dye is also from worsted from Burnley and Trowbridge.
It's great fabric!!
I looked at Dharma after watching the Closet Historian's ice dying videos but honestly I think the level of ingredients and measuring is too much for me. I got some Ritt on ebay last year because Dylon has no good red options, but then couldn't work out how to actually use it, as I'm used to the complete process being open packet, tip contents into washing machine, add wet fabric, run machine. Run again with detergent. You don't even have to add salt anymore as it's included with the dye now.
I still want to try ice dying one day though, if I can find a UK seller of Dharma dyes and the stuff that goes with them (also no dawn soap here)
I've never tried ice dyeing, so I don't know what extra steps are involved, but I'm sure it's more work than a standard tub dye. You can do the machine method with Rit, it's just never going to turn out as vivid as you'd like because the water won't get hot enough. For that you really need the stovetop method, or FR dyes, which you can do in the machine, but you still have to add the soda ash in steps, etc. And you need a LOT of salt and soda ash for the machine.
The only way to get the Dharma dyes is through their website, sadly. It's a small business out of California, so they're not hugely distributed elsewhere, though like I mentioned in the video, they do ship internationally. Just not sure the shipping is cost effective 😪
You SHOULD be able to find the Jacquard procion dyes, though, in art stores. Not super common, but I did have a look on their website, and there are a few shops scattered throughout. And you can get soda ash from Amazon! Might be cheaper, again, because of shipping.
I have an apricot polyester blouse that I love. How do I make it a cool tone?
Short answer: You pay somebody to take it apart, use it as a pattern, and make it in a cooler-toned fabric. Or you do it yourself, if you have the skills.
Long answer: I would think long and hard about whether you hate the color more than you love the blouse, because it's likely you may ruin it trying. I really wish I could give you a more satisfying answer, and while it may seem like that's an easy thing to do, it's actually quite a difficult thing to achieve, and if it was my blouse, I would not attempt it, even with almost 20 years of experience working with dyes--for three reasons.
Firstly, and most important, you don't have any extra fabric to swatch/test colors with, which means whatever you decide to do, you only get one shot. There's no room for experimenting beforehand to see what works and what doesn't. And if the colors don't work the way you expect...game over.
Secondly, orange is notorious for not playing well with others. If you're wanting like a blue tone or a green, not gonna happen 😪 You can try to dye it a dark gray, or use black (although you'll never get a true black with polyester.) Maybe a dark brown. But those colors are all a mix of other colors, and depending on the actual color your blouse is, how it was dyed, and how you do the dye process, it could pick up different colors in those mixes than you're expecting. It might be fine! It might look fab! Or...it may turn out baby poop brown. 🤷♀️ There's no way of knowing without doing a test swatch, first.
A more reliable color to achieve would be to overdye it red, and then take the red down using, say, a blue-gray. It'll still be red. But it'll be a cool red, if that makes sense.
Finally, it's polyester, which means you only have two options: Poly iDye, or RIT Dyemore (don't bother with regular RIT! It's not strong enough to overdye poly.) This means you'll have to note your precise colors and how much you use, the temperature you heat it to and for how long it's in the dyebath, because even if you use the fixative RIT sells (which I would strongly recommend using), it'll eventually fade and you'll have to redo the whole process.
Which is why it would be a lot less trouble, money and stress to take it apart and use it as a pattern.
Good luck!
@FantasticalFolliesCostuming thank you for answering my question. It all seems like more work than I want to do! I'm going to find someone to give this too who can wear orange colors.
@@sandracarter7231 Yeah, definitely a lot of work :/ Wish I'd had an easier solution for you!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming I just bought a blouse in a more flattering color with similar sleeves. I'll give the one away I'm thinking
Hey I want to dye a 100% cotton denim rug made of a bunch of recycled denim sewn together so there's a lot of different blues, I want to dye it into a black colorway and I was wondering if it's possible to dye it and obtain different shades of black? I'm thinking since there's a lot of different shades of blue on this rug I might be able to dye it and obtain different shades of black. Also which products/technic would you use to do it?
So that's going to be pretty tricky to do. Dyeing anything black--especially cellulosic fabrics (like cotton) is an advanced technique. You would definitely need to use fiber reactive dyes. Not Rit. Rit's black is more grey than anything. But the thing with black is that it's difficult to get a true black from any given dye. If you go to Dharma Trading and look at their various blacks, they all have different properties, and dyeing different shades of denim may pick up the colors in the mix that you may not want it to pick up. For example, browns and taupes or weirder shades of blue or purple. I would contact them directly if you're committed to it and see which of the blacks they'd suggest you use, and if they have any tips for you. They're slow to respond sometimes, but their responses are always well-informed. But I'd suggest you practice dyeing a couple of times with less advanced colors, first. Or pick a different dark color, instead, and get the effect you want.
Does acid dye work on cotton? and if so what temperature do I make the water?
Acid dye does not work on cotton. It may stain your fabric slightly, but it will not chemically adhere to the fibers. You'll need fiber reactive dye for that.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming thank you!
Have you tried using fiber reactive for dying wood?
Nope! I don't work with wood, usually,.but cool to know there's that possibility!
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming I think I’ve seen it used on wood, but seeings how it is also celluloid it should work.
Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I LOVE the concept of acid dyes. And some of the natural ones can be done in a way they're pretty colourfast as well, I've been saving onion skins for a year... Unfortunately I don't do a lot with wool (makes me itch) and can't afford much silk so I'm mostly using cotton and linen. Boo.
Also, I'm having zero luck finding any non-RIT dyes (well, ok, someone carries Tintex or Dylon but very limited colours) around here, and the prices are as obscene as RIT. Eight bucks for a 2/3 ounce jar, almost $40 for the 8 oz jar. And Amazon wants almost fifteen bucks per 2/3 oz. Sometimes I hate shopping Canadian. Maybe I need to make a list and get some delivered at my stepsister's place stateside.... till then I'm stuck wtih RIT. Which honestly I haven't had problems with the dye process or the colourfastness so far (that fixative usually works pretty well) but holy gods is it NOT UV-stable. I wore my first hand-sewn shirt that I dyed with Rit out in the garden last year and there's a HUGE difference between the colour on the inside and the colour on the outside. If it wasn't in the mending heap (armpits, bane of my existence) I'd just re-dye it. And RIT worked beautifully on some wool blend that I made into a winter coat. It's like a blanket weave with wool pile so it didn't dye the polyester blanket part but it did a great job on the pile so there's little bits of the original magenta peeking out from the lovely grape popsicle purple I got with it, and that coat is never going to be washed and doesn't get worn in strong sun too often so it should be OK. So far has not faded in the closet.
I do have a question though, why do you add the vinegar or soda ash at the end? I've been watching several other youtubers dyeing things and I think the Closet Historian always soaked her cottons in soda ash first, and ChemKnits often starts with the vinegar in before she puts the dye in, though the timing of acid really depends on what she's going for.
Yeah, I don't get to use the acid dyes as much as I'd like because of how expensive wool is. The silk dyeing I tend to do is usually more in the painting aspect vs the tub dye (solid color) method, since you can get pretty much any color taffeta or dupioni or whatever you want without the fuss.
To answer your question, they don't get added at the end, they get added midway. Adding the vinegar or soda ash is what chemically bonds the dye to the fabric, so when you're tub dyeing you want to give your fabric some time to absorb the dye before you fix it.
As far as the vinegar goes, I have no idea why she adds it at the beginning, the only thing I can think of is that she's using a different technique. I've never seen that done.
Soda ash, on the other hand, when you add it depends on the technique you're going for. For example, if you're tie dyeing or ice dyeing or whatever, something NOT solid, you'll want to soak it first in the soda ash and manually add the unpolluted dye to the fiber. This is because soda ash is what causes the dye to chemically deteriorate, so if you add it to the dye, then you might run out of time to use the dye before you're finished doing whatever it is you're doing.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming OK thank you! I think I'm starting to understand some of the chemistry with the fibre-reactive dyes, only using soda ash in advance when you're doing things like ice dye where it's a long-term thing BUT there's a surplus of dye, or tie dye where you're not looking for even colour and you're not soaking in it, just applying it and whatever sticks, sticks, short duration one and done.What I understand from watching Chemknits for rather a while is that she uses acid at different times depending on how she wants the colour to strike, she's not always going for solild colours, and I think adding it earlier on can enhance the tonal variations or speckles she's going for.
Now if only I can find some fibre-reactive dyes for a not obscene price!
I dont understand how such heat doesn t ruin the fibre, especially wool and especially non-superwash wool. Weve all.shrunk sweaters by putting them in the wrong wash so whats up ?
Well, I mean, speak for yourself, I've never shrunk a sweater :P
It's not the heat itself that felts wool. It's the combination of heat + moisture + friction that does it. So it's the other clothes in the machine that cause it to felt. That's why when you're machine felting knit items, you have to put stuff in with it to get the desired result.
In contrast, when you're dyeing wool, it's in a large pot and the agitation is much gentler, and if you're doing it correctly, it has enough room to move around in the water, so that there's no friction, and therefore no danger.
just curious, what happens if you slip up and use Iodized salt? I have not dyed anything before, nor do I plan to, but its always helpful to know what your in for given seemingly small blunders.
I'm not sure! My educated guess is that, because the salt helps the dye bond to the fiber, and adding iodine probably gets in the way of that, either you get a much less concentrated color, or the dye barely sticks at all 🤷♀️
That being said, I keep my dye salt with my dye supplies and my food (iodized) salt in my pantry, so it's not hard to choose the right one 🧡
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming nifty.
Ever tried tie dying with Rit dyes?
Oh yeah. A gazillion times. Same deal, it works, but it fades. Tye dyeing with fiber reactive dyes, though, is easy enough. Dharma sells cute little kits you can buy, too, and then you get more vibrant, permanent color. It's actually easier and less labor intensive than F.R. tub dyeing like I did in the video!
Awesome video thank you! The thing I have been most interested in is making my 'blacks' stay black; and I was considering making a black linen pirate shirt but worried about fade. What do you recommend for refreshing faded blacks?
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it! I've never had an issue with my blacks fading, personally. I think a lot of that has to do with how you wash it. Separate load, cold water. I line dry a lot of my clothes to avoid the screen prints on my concert tees peeling, I'd bet that's helped them stay dark, too.
Dye wise, a true black is the hardest color to achieve using any type of dye. DT has a "jet black" fiber reactive dye that comes close, but it's a hot water dye, unlike the rest of the FRs. It's definitely not a beginner's technique and I recommend that you get some dye jobs under your belt before you attempt it.
Rit does sell a "Back to black" kit made specifically for that purpose, but I've never used it, and can't speak for its washfastness.
I would say, make your black shirt. Don't let the worry of what MIGHT happen long in the future prevent you from making what you want. It's a pirate shirt, even if it does fade in a few years, it'd only look MORE like a pirate shirt if it looks well worn! 🧡
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming
So... What I'm learning (still) is my faded black - and not because it's been through the washing machine - ever. Utility kilt, which is large, heavy, and 65% polyester, 35% cotton... Could be over dyed back to black. But I'm going to need a full on cauldron, and a campfire...
I was hoping you had some miracle answer. ;p
@@lynn858 I wish I could!! Black's really hard, though, and with it mostly being polyester, you've got an ever bigger hurdle.
I'd say, get yourself some black Rit Dyemore, add at LEAST one more bottle more than the recommended amount for the weight of your dry fabric, and crank up the fire. Poly blends should be able to handle a 200-220° bath temp, and then leave it in a long time, and use the fixative after.
And ventilate. If the regular Rit smells, I can't imagine how bad the synthetic blend is 🫣
@@lynn858Honestly, I use diluted with medium black fabric paint for dark fabrics in an airbrush and it works like a charm to refresh faded blacks and it works like a charm on any kind of fabric without really any changes in texture. On thicker fabrics even acrylics diluted to airbrush consistency with fabric medium worked but I wouldn't risk it with very silky fabric.
@@margodphd Oh COOL! I do not have that tech myself, but I will keep it in mind as a thing that exists.
I went to buy some dye from DT a while back & the shipping cost was more than my order😭. I had to cancel it cause $30 in shipping on a $20 order was just too much for me. I haven't been able to save up enough to order any dye from them yet cause of that. Maybe the shipping costs are better now but they weren't then
Yeah, the shipping can be tough! I will say, though, it's not any more expensive than any other small business who utilizes USPS. Shipping in general is cost prohibitive right now, and I'm right there with you, sometimes I just can't justify the purchase because the shipping's more. But that's been the case for other companies, too. With Dharma, they ship out of CA, so the shipping's calculated by weight and zone, so the further away and heavier your order, the more it'll cost. That 5 lb bag of soda ash burns me every time. But that bag lasts me like 2 yrs of frequent dyeing, and if you're just starting out, you could order a smaller amount (or use Amazon for that bit, and just buy the dye!)
I try to combat it by buying smart. They also sell pfd fabric and yarn (including CHEAP silk organza, like 7 bucks a yard, beautiful colored silk chiffon and habotai, cotton voile, velveteen, etc.) So I'll think ahead to my next few projects and wait until I can order a bunch of stuff, so the order to shipping ratio isn't so unbalanced. I also always buy at least one extra dye whenever I order, of a color I think I'd like to use in future, because 2 oz of dye rarely adds enough weight for the postage to change, and then I have it for future use and don't have to spend $4 to ship $2 of dye.
This doesn't work for every budget, of course, but it does come out cheaper that way 🧡
Anyidea what dye would be best for TPU?
I don't have a lot of experience with the substance, but given that it's plastic, probably RIT Dyemore or Jacquard Poly iDye are your only options. Those are meant to dye synthetics. Good quality fabric paint may be more effective, I've done a lot of hand painting on synthetic dance costumes with good results.
I've only ever used Rit, just to refresh some faded black clothes, which it didn't do very well. 😅 All the rest of these seem like quite a lot of work and quite a lot of risk of dying stuff you don't want dyed, tho.
Black dye's very difficult to do successfully, with Rit impossible, esp for a novice. Even with the other types, it takes a lot of extra dye and attention. 100% do not recommend 😆
It's really not that much work. Like maybe takes 5 mins of prep time, tops, outside of the standard stuff you should do with all dyes, like pre washing your fabric. I can and have dyed a batch of acid and/or light-colored fiber reactive dye in a single lunchbreak 🤷♀️ And I always wear my hair dye/cleaning shirt, but honestly I've never stained it. With dye, at least.
I c that u dont like rit dye. Im gonna try to use it to dye my seatbelts. I hope you are not right about it for my use.
I am right about it. Been working with the stuff professionally for almost 20 years, I know what I'm talking about. RIT has its purpose but in the end it's chemistry. You can't argue with scientific fact. The results will depend on the fiber content of your seatbelt. Either they're poly and RIT's your only option, and you'll get a light dye, or it's nylon and it'll take the dye. Either way, the sunlight is going to fade it out.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming interesting. I believe they are polyester, but i wouldnt bet on it because i have no experience with fabrics. Either way, would you recommend i return the rit and go with an acid dye?
Btw, thank you for responding so quickly!
You're welcome! Sorry this one is not so fast 😆 So unless you're on a super tight budget and the RIT was costly, it can't hurt to try it with that, first. This may be one of the few times where RIT is really your only option. If you were certain it wasn nylon and not poly, I'd say go ahead and get the acid dye, but since you're not, and the only true way to determine fiber is to do a burn test (which, while a lot of fun, isn't great to do on your seatbelt!), I would start with the RIT and see where you get. If it takes color but is faded/pale, you're working with poly and that's as good as it's gonna get, and if takes the color, you can redye with acid dyes when it fades.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming no worries. Thanks for responding period. My mechanic thinks the seatbelts are nylon. Do u think the acid dye can damage the seatbelts?? Also, if i decide to go the rit route, would u recommend their rit color stay or whatever product? Ive heard it could bleed. Also, fhanks for ur patience!!
I still don’t know how I’m gonna dye my polyester/cotton blend robe 😭
For poly/cotton, I would use Jacquard's iDye poly. Not ideal and limited colors, but it dyes poly better than basic RIT. You'll need a LARGE dye pot and good ventilation.
@@FantasticalFolliesCostuming Have you ever mixed acrylic paint mixed with water to dye clothes? I hear it works well on polyester!
Technically, that wouldn't be dyeing, that's painting, but yeah, I'm sure that'd work. It'll definitely stiffen your fabric, though, that's something to consider. I use acrylic on fabric all the time for my cosplay stuff. Texture's not great, but it's decent coverage. Might be good to add in a fabric medium to help with the washfastness and the texture. You could possible use fabric paint instead of acrylic even, though that might be a little costly. 🤔🤔
I've found rit is just not good even if you do it in hot water. Dylon is another similar brand I've had not great experience with
I've only heard of Dylon, I've never actually used it, but I get the feeling that because it's pre-portioned, it's probably limited in what it can do.
I’ve never noticed a smell to Rit.
Interesting! It definitely smells.
You are most beautiful girl
на английском одинаково звучит умереть и покрасить?))))
No, they don't. But they're similar concepts, I suppose, as far as auto-translators are concerned!