Another excellent video hope you produce loads more! that is most probably a faulty relay on circuit board inside the time switch! ( The contacts on the relay itself usually burn/arc out Due to the load current on them) I’ve come across this quite a few times. to any heating guys out there I have saved a fortune replacing these relay switches on boiler PCBs . and they are only around £2 pound for a new relay unit!!
Bit naughty installing that Vaillant without the pump being wired directly into it's electrics. Hex won't get a proper cool down on pump overrun. Thanks for another great vid. Please keep them coming!!!
@@HeatingGeek Change your contract. Refuse to do work on systems you can't put right. If someone else comes along afterwards and find it's incorrect, you could get the blame for it ! Or leave a sticker on it saying there are other faults with the system outside the contracted work.
@@millomweb I can't be blamed for non safety installation defects. EVER. I can even be blamed for safety defects. Unless I miss them because of negligence. This whole game is a farce. :-)
The "fault" is probably an electrolytic capacitor in the programmer drying out from heat from the DHW cylinder. I've gone through 2 Drayton timeswitches with the same problem (mounted in airing cupboard) yet the old (previous system install) Honeywell programmer's still working fine - so am still using that ! With 1 of the Drayton(/iflo) - you can hear the relay buzzing - trying to operate - and a tap with a screwdriver's enough to get it to actually come on ! I think the wiring on the one in the vid is worse than mine here at home - unbelievable ! Makes you wonder why they don't put the indicator lights on the actual output thru the relay !
@@HeatingGeekGlad to hear they're doing good!! Our Henry is 18 months old, only child after much heartache over 12 years!! We never gave up hope & Love him more than words can describe, even though the house looks like a laundrette, so I can imagine yours, but I know you love 'em dearly!!😀
Wow. 12 years is really tough. We have been really lucky and I never thought about the possibility of it not happening. I don't know how tough that would be. I have three boys and every day is amazing. The older 2 are into fortnight and iPads and the baby cant even hold his head up!!! its great. Good luck to you, your lady and little Henry. Bikes, walking (Maybe he's started) all to come. Have fun!!!!
@@HeatingGeek Thanks for your kind words mate😃 Yes he's walking alright & into everything, as you well know, with your eldest 2!! ipads & tech, we've got all that to come & I'll have to get more jobs in, lol. Glad yours are doing fine pal & thanks again.🙏😉
i wonder if you can help with my baxi solo 18 HE ,it seems to be having what i think might be overheating stat probs,it reaches temperature then wants to cut out ,then keep trying to relight,if i press the reset button we can get it to go for quite a while then it sort of pops and starts the same prob over again ,Maybe you can suggest how old this model is,should we replace or is this a common small fault.
Enjoying you videos HG. Would the fact the boiler earth was out effect the flame rectification signal or would it work because it is going to ground through the copper pipes?
The problem with the programmer is the AC Capacitor dropper there will be a large X2 capacitor probably .47 uF that has dropped in value therefore there is only enough current to power one really at a a time. Your multimeter should be able to measure it. They are probable a £1 out of mouser, RS Rapid electronics
I'm an EE, I suspect Honeywell went for the cheapest of mains power supplies and elected to use a "capacitor dropper" these have a finite lifetime and is a crud decision for a heating controller. Inside will be a large yellow capacitor, replace it and it'll work again.
It's funny, I've same issue with 2 Drayton/iflo programmers - so have reverted to the old Honeywell from the previous installation ! Programmers all in airing cupboard. All the other same make/model programmers have worked flawlessly - but they're not in the airing cupboard!
Another excellent video hope you produce loads more! that is most probably a faulty relay on circuit board inside the time switch! ( The contacts on the relay itself usually burn/arc out Due to the load current on them) I’ve come across this quite a few times. to any heating guys out there I have saved a fortune replacing these relay switches on boiler PCBs . and they are only around £2 pound for a new relay unit!!
I think your right. Its a relay or transformer issue. a: bad relays b: voltage too low when both relays need to be switched.
Relay is fine - as clearly each works ok when only 1 at a time. It's most likely a dried out capacitor issue.
That was very interesting Ollie. You really are a master in this. ❤
I try. I cant remember anything about this video so I might rewatch it :-)
great video heating geek, not many videos actually show fault finding, good job
No problem. :-)
when i want to chill out i put this on and relax as he takes you on the logic process , it's relaxing
Oh dear. :-) Put you to sleep...
@@HeatingGeek not to sleep , the info still goes in , i watch builds from cars to watches .
@@jonkasch1244 I watch electronics, videos. :-)
Very informative
Keep spreading the love ❤️
Just needed this videos for tommorrow, your video uploads are somehow synced with my problems always there when i need it 🙌😎
Good I hope it helps!!! :-)
Bit naughty installing that Vaillant without the pump being wired directly into it's electrics. Hex won't get a proper cool down on pump overrun. Thanks for another great vid. Please keep them coming!!!
Its weird not putting that stuff right but I have been TOLD! We don't put right installation defects.
Dead right. You haven't got time to go worry about the non-safety related defects in systems we see every day. Blame lies with the boiler installer.
@@HeatingGeek Change your contract. Refuse to do work on systems you can't put right. If someone else comes along afterwards and find it's incorrect, you could get the blame for it !
Or leave a sticker on it saying there are other faults with the system outside the contracted work.
@@millomweb I can't be blamed for non safety installation defects. EVER. I can even be blamed for safety defects. Unless I miss them because of negligence. This whole game is a farce. :-)
@@HeatingGeek I didn't say legally blamed !
Great video and a common fault. We change loads of them Honeywell programmers for this ‘no click’ fault
Are they always in airing cupboards ?
I love your logic progression and your component knowledge is excellent.
Thanks. Most repairs are logical and sometimes you just need to take a second to think clearly. :-)
Yes brv...Tricks of the trade...this will help alot of people who scared fault finding electrics....Wicked Video
Fantastic job sir
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Very nice video I like it👍
Can you please do a video on how to wire central heating and hot water. Thanks
I have. My las 2 videos are about it. :-)
HeatingGeek thank you
Mate, you're clued up
Thanks :-) Sorry for the late reply. Been really busy with the baby etc
Great video dude 👏🏻
Thanks ;-)
The "fault" is probably an electrolytic capacitor in the programmer drying out from heat from the DHW cylinder. I've gone through 2 Drayton timeswitches with the same problem (mounted in airing cupboard) yet the old (previous system install) Honeywell programmer's still working fine - so am still using that !
With 1 of the Drayton(/iflo) - you can hear the relay buzzing - trying to operate - and a tap with a screwdriver's enough to get it to actually come on !
I think the wiring on the one in the vid is worse than mine here at home - unbelievable !
Makes you wonder why they don't put the indicator lights on the actual output thru the relay !
Hi Se top of the comments from me
great videos mate what contract are you doing
I do a few different contracts. Mostly for manufacturers
Great video thanks
Thanks :-)
Thanks for the video mate, very well described. Liked, saved & subscribed!👍😉
Ps. Hope missus and baby doing well.💪
Thanks. All doing well here. House is a dump..... 3 kids.... whats new!!!!
@@HeatingGeekGlad to hear they're doing good!! Our Henry is 18 months old, only child after much heartache over 12 years!! We never gave up hope & Love him more than words can describe, even though the house looks like a laundrette, so I can imagine yours, but I know you love 'em dearly!!😀
Wow. 12 years is really tough. We have been really lucky and I never thought about the possibility of it not happening. I don't know how tough that would be.
I have three boys and every day is amazing. The older 2 are into fortnight and iPads and the baby cant even hold his head up!!! its great.
Good luck to you, your lady and little Henry. Bikes, walking (Maybe he's started) all to come. Have fun!!!!
@@HeatingGeek Thanks for your kind words mate😃 Yes he's walking alright & into everything, as you well know, with your eldest 2!! ipads & tech, we've got all that to come & I'll have to get more jobs in, lol. Glad yours are doing fine pal & thanks again.🙏😉
i wonder if you can help with my baxi solo 18 HE ,it seems to be having what i think might be overheating stat probs,it reaches temperature then wants to cut out ,then keep trying to relight,if i press the reset button we can get it to go for quite a while then it sort of pops and starts the same prob over again ,Maybe you can suggest how old this model is,should we replace or is this a common small fault.
Im not sure of the issue. If its consistent then you should call and engineer out who can investigate the issue.
I hate other folks wiring, for some reason they always wire it like a birds nest..as usual a great vid..
Sometimes it's ok. But not very often. :-)
Enjoying you videos HG. Would the fact the boiler earth was out effect the flame rectification signal or would it work because it is going to ground through the copper pipes?
It can effect it. On this one it didn't but it can and does.
The problem with the programmer is the AC Capacitor dropper there will be a large X2 capacitor probably .47 uF that has dropped in value therefore there is only enough current to power one really at a a time. Your multimeter should be able to measure it. They are probable a £1 out of mouser, RS Rapid electronics
I have a video in a couple of weeks you will like. :-)
I'm an EE, I suspect Honeywell went for the cheapest of mains power supplies and elected to use a "capacitor dropper" these have a finite lifetime and is a crud decision for a heating controller. Inside will be a large yellow capacitor, replace it and it'll work again.
Someone has done a video about this. I cant find it at the moment but its out there somewhere!!! Thanks for watching. :-)
It's funny, I've same issue with 2 Drayton/iflo programmers - so have reverted to the old Honeywell from the previous installation ! Programmers all in airing cupboard. All the other same make/model programmers have worked flawlessly - but they're not in the airing cupboard!
An other nice vid 🖒👏
Thanks, :-)
The sound on your videos is generally quite quiet in any case!
Noted.
@@HeatingGeek Still working through a pile of your vids - selected ones only.
wiring always looks a pain in the arse to figure out ha ha, bet that would have had a few engineers scratching there heads.
Thats why I use the 2 port or 3 port as a guide to what should be what. Usually works out.
It won't fool engineers. Installers, maybe.
Relay