Excellent such a clear explanation I was a heating engineer for 45 years and everyone struggled with y plan it got to the stage in our firm I got sent back to college to train as an electrician just to wire up the heating systems. Well done
Wow! Watched this video for a 2nd or 3rd time and everything is making sense! 2 ports are easy, 3 ports a bit more difficult but you explain everything so well. Thank you!
Your wiring tutorials actually gave me the the confidence to work on both zone valve and 3 port valve. Zone valve is less complicated compare to 3 port. With constantly going back to watch your videos on 3 port valve gave me the depth knowledge about it. Thank you so much bro.
Never do much with 3 ports. Had one yesterday. Fitting a heat only on a y plan and sparky had been playing with wiring. It would not do heating only! Thankfully I know why, this video helped alot.
Great video mate. Those 3 videos are easily the best S/Y plan videos I have seen. Personally, I would like to see some smart control stuff as that is so common nowadays & can be confusing. Thanks again
Nice work, good clear layman's terms. I watched it 3 times then it clicked...miles better than staring at some black and white wiring diagram sheet. And really smooth camera movement and quality imagining.
I've really got a lot from watching your wiring videos and your explanation as to how everything works! Honestly you would make an excellent trainer! I've watch other videos from JW John Ward with diagrams ect and with your more practical approach and demonstrations, you have i'm sure learnt loads of people on here something that they didn't know..... Like the Earth is there to protect the cables and that is why most wiring on heating systems are wired incorrectly. GREAT video series on heating system wiring and very well put together. Thank you!!
Nice one. I'm glad you liked it. :-) These took a lot of time and I really found them hard. Nut they are done. 90% is behind me and the other 10% is a lot more interesting.
Very good. It's all very well explaining a wiring diagram, but it certainly helps to see it in a physical way too. Showing how a wiring centre brings it all together would be a good thing as well.
Brilliant series of wiring videos pal. I work for an M+E company installing, so I’ve always had a sparky wire our systems and when they try explain the wiring it always goes over my head. They way you sequenced the vids was great and easy to follow, great content mate 👍
Just to say thank you. Great video, great explanation. Using the information you provided I managed to fix the problem with the valve not moving all the way to H due to a loose wire connection from the programmer. Keep up with the good work! Cheers
yeh enjoyed it. Started watching your videos again as i had a system with a fault. With just a hot water demand the divertor was in mid position. This happened if room stat had demand but prog only had hw demand. Only when room stat had no demand the divertor went to hot water only, where it should of been. The problem ends up being the programmer aparantly. Although the divertor was broke also, the spring return had fell to bits and jammed, also the indicator (hw ,m ,ch) was cracked off inside. A Drayton i think
Hi mate fantastic videos many thanks. You said you was going to show us how to wire the pump overrun but I think you forgot to. Love to see a quick video of that please.
Great videos pal. Love the presentation which beats doing manufacturer courses where you always have some half-wit who always thinks he knows best. Would love to see smart controllers wiring, starting with nest, lyric etc. Thanks again. Have now joined on Patreon
I’ve always struggled with diagnosis of faults with everything except S plans. Watching this has made me make up my own board and practice fault finding. The only suggestion I have is to make it more “real world” and have the wiring centre be a single gang in an airing cupboard with all of the wires be 3 core.😉
I'll be watching it 10 times till the end until it fully sinks in. Love the videos keep making them! Smart controls yes, old school stuff yes, wiring center yes.
Thank bro. You mentioned it.,you don't need permanent live on y plan!! Nice....I should knock out tomorrow....,👍🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳 Will need to run an extra off from grey stat to programmer HW off terminal... thanks again
great series of wiring videos and a fantastic recap from what i’ve learnt in college. It was good to see the 3 port wiring as well. Would be great to see some smart controls being installed. I’m interested in fault finding and i’m sure you’ve done plenty of videos on that so i’ll deffo be taking a look at those. Well done HG 👍
Brilliant video bud as always, all 3 video's in the series are superb, informative and easy to understand, as well as all the other you have done in real situations. Yeah I would like to see video on wiring centres and smart stuff. Can't wait for the next one mate.👍🔥
If you can wire a 2 port system then another zone is just another control circuit. Watch the 2 port videos and think of the nest as a programable roomstat.
Surely the very best video on this subject, thank you. A question: LPG heat-only boiler, combination tank. We have a 3 port Honeywell Y plan setup, but my electrician is confused because we do NOT have a room stat -- the temperature is set from the boiler control -- and he's unsure about where the white from the motorised valve should go. The system has worked for 25 years, but after fiddling with the 10 block strip he thinks the white should go to block 4 instead of 5 as per the Honeywell diagram (but which includes a room stat). I don't understand his reasoning but he's the expert (apparently). And now the hot water will not stay on without the heating being on. Hot water on its own fires up the boiler but it shuts down within a minute... but if the heating's on it stays on. I feel that's unrelated to the wiring, but I am definitely a beginner with all this. The 3 port valve is brand new, as are the tank stat and the controller. So is there a different position for the white if there's no room stat? My ignorance, of course, is obvious! Any advice gratefully received, even if it's simply "find a better electrician".
If you have no room stat the white wire needs to go to the "CH on" wire from your timer/programmer. This could be any terminal as most (including me) plumbers wire systems however it makes the cables neater.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you so much for this. It was changed because of a VERY occasional event, where when the heating was turned off while the HW was also on, the heating would stay on even though the programmer had turned it off. Only turning off the HW and then turning it back on would sort it out. I was told that was definitely the 3 port valve. And I'm assured it was connected exactly as before... although of course I have my doubts about what the electrician has done. Time for someone else to look at it, I think... a heating engineer, perhaps!
As an electrician who has seen many many boiler-man's bird's-nest wiring That control centre wiring looks like it belongs in a parallel universe where the tradesmen care more than just getting it to work.
I'm watching it early morning to soak in my brain cell memory lol ...wish I learnt it 5 yrs ago...the gas safe I shadowed teaching me the installs and repair,,confuses me with the theory limitation in explaining ..it's like asking granny directions..especially with white wire! No mention of the 2 offs with Grey..2 sl to boiler Yours much clearer, appreciate the effort boss
Great display, I see you use Drayton, always used Honeywell, y plans, s plans and s plans + for the bigger installations. Although synchron motors could be a problem over time. Keep up the good work 👏👏
HeatingGeek it certainly helped me understand how s plan works I’m just at the end of my NVQ level 2 Later starter in life so all this helps Many thanks for sharing you knowledge 👍
Super video really helped me understand wiring one question when you fault find and you want to by-pass the room thermostat do you link out 1&3 on a T6360 roomstat.
Can you do a video covering the voltage anomaly on a 3 port system, and how to get around the problem by fitting a suppressor or as you put it a snapper. Thanks All great videos looking forward to next one. Be safe
Hello mate really appreciate your videos they are very detailed and helpfull, would like to see the wiring centre and smart controls I am looking to start my CCN1 &CENWAT training early next year. Stay Safe.
Thank you so much for taking the time to shoot all these videos. Absolutely brilliant! Can I ask if you know why the 3 port gets stuck on heating only when demand is lost? You'd have thought that if you lost power from the controller for heating but the power from the hot water off signal was still there that the valve would return to resting position?
Its the" hot water off" that moves the valve to heating only. You don't lose the "hot water off" when you lose the "heating on" demand. So the valve stays in heating only. :-) Some valves will motor off. Not Honeywell or Drayton though.
On Central Heating only, does the room thermostat still play a part.? Is it wired in and so can still turn off the boiler and pump if it's heat setting is reached?
Thank you I’ve been chasing this fault ( I thought it was a fault) until I saw this great video, can I ask , is it a problem for the motor on the 3 port valve being powered over all the time? Over heating or power consumption? Regards
Sorry to bother you. I love your videos and im learning alot coming from an installation back ground. I just wondered. Why do you wire it to hot water off on the programmer and not CH on? Thank you
Wouldnt the 3 port need a feed from central heating ON, in order to tell it to motor over to get the orange cable turn into a switch live? In my head, if the hot water isnt selected and is in the off position. The the boiler would call for central heating demand??? I hope this makes sense. Thank you so much. Its helping me become more confident in this area
Im sorry i didn't answer this. The CH ON only takes the valve to mid position it needs the HW OFF to take it all the way to CH only. Weird, but thats how it works. :-)
Informative video thanks. Wonder if you could help. I have an electric boiler (Powerstream Ascari) which is not even 2 years old. It is a Y plan with an unvented cylinder. The pump is within the boiler. Oddly the pump goes off every 6 hours even when no heat is being called for and when the standby power button for the boiler is off! This is causing it to go off during the night and the pump is noisy as it is in a cupboard next to the bedroom, so every night is a broken sleep. A neighbour with the same boiler also had this issue but managed to get it fixed but has no clue how it was fixed and I have not been able to contact her plumber. Do you have any idea what could be wrong?
HeatingGeek ok thanks anyway. Don’t suppose you can advise. My 3 port valve works as it should re calling for heat or water but the boiler doesn’t fire in heat but does water and mix is also ok just heat alone the boiler doesn’t fire. The 3 port valve is warm to touch even when pipes cold I assume it’s failure? Am I right in thinking when the call for heat ( heat connected to white wire) it should flick a switch in 3 port valve to send power to orange and fire boiler. If so I assume my 3 port is faulty. Your expert advise would be greatly appreciated.
More than likely. Depends on the heat requirement for the premises. What size was the old boiler? Although not a great way to size a boiler it can be used as a guide.
@@HeatingGeek thank you, I’ve seen a couple of your videos and sorted it. The 2 off’s in with the grey wire from the mid po and the hive set to the gravity setting. THANK YOU 👍🍺
We have a 3 port mid position valve, but there is no additional 'off' wire in the wall stat? The wall stat just has the one heating call wire, i assume this has been wired wrong, and the heating wouldn't working if the hot water wasn't on, we leave to hot water on constant?
No. The wall (room) Stat doesn't need an off wire. Only the cylinder (hot water) stat needs an off. If your heating only works when the HW is on then: the valve is faulty, the motor in the valve is faulty, or the system is a HW priority type.
@@HeatingGeek Ok thanks, i will check into that, i have noticed that that rads get warm with the heating off, and the hot water on only. so i guess that points to faulty valve?
Hi, firstly I want to say thank you for the video, it was very informative. I was wondering if you could help me with my problem: When I turn on the hot water the rads come on but no hot water, same thing when both HW and CH are turned on. I have been away for about a year and boiler wasn't used much. This happened last year also, I was away for months, however that time it started working again after a week or two of boiler use. Do you think I have a faulty motor or is the valve stuck in the CH position? I'm confused, because last time the problem fixed itself (is it possible for the valve to get unstuck by itself?). Do I need to replace the motor or the whole valve including the motor. It's a Salus SBMV32 valve (the control panel and stats are also by Salus). I felt the hot water pipe feed that goes in to the water tank and its really hot at the port side and relatively warm further along, the closer it gets to the water tank. Could I have an air lock in the system? I have a gravity fed system on a Y-Plan (3-Port Valve) I look forward to your reply.
@heatinggeek when i press CH nothing happens the only way I can get CH is by turning the hot water on too from the programmer ...or I have to move the actuator to manual any ideas
@@HeatingGeek Thanks fella I managed to fix the wiring so now the heating comes on without hot water...However hot water only doesn't work. The spring either goes to mid position or to heating position but not to water only. If I disconnect the programmer the spring whirs all the way back to hot water only...which gives me the impression somewhere there's a wiring fault. I'm happy to pay you for a video call diagnostics if that's possible?
Hi, good tutorial and I've checked wiring but I Drayton 3 port valve (new replacement) sticks in mid position intermittently so house melts and water super heats. Same problem with old valve, which is why I replaced it, I've also replaced everything else cept boiler. I've buzzed out the wiring and it is correct to Drayton's 3 port mid valve circuit. Previous owner may have had same problem as found receipt for replacement valve only 6 months before I bought house. Spoke to Drayton tech and they said Worcester Bosch 24i (sealed system) boiler's integral pump may need a clip-on ferrite suppressor so fitted one but still same fault every few weeks. Other times system works fine ???? Help? Nick, Somerset
Another great video. Can I pick your brain? My father-in-law has an issue with his "Y" plan system. Heating is working fine, hot water on the other hand is intermittent. Regardless of his heating being on or off some days he will have hot water others he doesn't. I have changed his tank stat as it was broken inside and it worked afterwards and then stopped again the very next day so it wasn't that. I took the head of my 3 port valve and put in onto his and the issue was still there. I have yet to check the power supplies as I didn't have my meter with me. Could it be an intermittent fault in the timer? The timer is a Honeywell ST699. Any help would be much appreciated.
Hi I have a Honeywell 3 port valve (V4073A) and the CH only works if the HW is also on. I have carried out a voltage test and it appears that when the CH only is on there is 240v coming from both white and grey wires, however the orange remains at 0v. The HW off wire and HW CYL stat wires are also reading 0v which I believe after watching your video is the reason that the orange isn’t becoming live and firing up the boiler? The power head in the valve was recently changed as water dripped into the motor and the system shorted, tripping the RCD and blowing the 3A fuse in the programmer switch. I have checked the valve positions and they seem to be working ok but was wondering if there is a problem with either the programmer or cyl stat and was hoping you may have a suggestion. Many thanks
@@HeatingGeek Thank you heatingGeek. I took the new power head back and got a replacement and all is good. I appears that a micro switch was faulty in the first one. Excellent video though as it allowed me to fully understand and follow the wiring and identify where the fault was. 👌
Could i use this setup for UFH and heating... I have a 3 port between the main feed pipe. B being ch and A being UFH, but id like them to be independent.... Any help appreciated!
@@arinb12 all you need to do is get a off (from the programmer and room stat) from the zone attached to port B. then just wire it up as a you would a HW zone. You might not be able to use certain controls because they don't have "offs". I hope this makes sense
Can you do underfloor heating manifold and boiler control.my electrician hasnt an idea and my plumber wants to have the boiler running on a loop until the floor calls for heat.HHeeellppp! Thank you
The extra wire on a 2 port head should be white. If you have an extra brown you may have the wrong head. Ie 2 port head on a 3 port valve. Look on the head diagram and it will show the ports on the valve.
I am having a problem with my boiler not turning on the hot water, the three port valve motor works to engage the central heating but will not fire up the water when required, I have replaced the thermostat thinking that might have been faulty, but still it won't call hot water?
Thanks for that got home, house was freezing, so not only was the water not working but also the heating was off so when you mentioned the controller I actually pressed it from the front and everything came back on, it would seem that the front of the unit is plugged into the backing and had been knocked.
Excellent such a clear explanation I was a heating engineer for 45 years and everyone struggled with y plan it got to the stage in our firm I got sent back to college to train as an electrician just to wire up the heating systems. Well done
Thanks ;-) i only just got back to youtube and didn't see this comment.
Wow! Watched this video for a 2nd or 3rd time and everything is making sense! 2 ports are easy, 3 ports a bit more difficult but you explain everything so well. Thank you!
No problem. :-)
Your wiring tutorials actually gave me the the confidence to work on both zone valve and 3 port valve. Zone valve is less complicated compare to 3 port. With constantly going back to watch your videos on 3 port valve gave me the depth knowledge about it. Thank you so much bro.
No problem. :-) I'm glad it helped you. :-) Soon you won't even need to think about it anymore.
Never do much with 3 ports. Had one yesterday. Fitting a heat only on a y plan and sparky had been playing with wiring. It would not do heating only! Thankfully I know why, this video helped alot.
I'm glad it helped. Thats why I did them 🙂
Great video mate. Those 3 videos are easily the best S/Y plan videos I have seen. Personally, I would like to see some smart control stuff as that is so common nowadays & can be confusing. Thanks again
Thats great to hear. I have been solidly editing and have 2 more done and a 3rd very close. :-)
Very informative in the simplest of ways. You deserve far more subscribers mate.
Help me get them. :-)
Nice work, good clear layman's terms. I watched it 3 times then it clicked...miles better than staring at some black and white wiring diagram sheet.
And really smooth camera movement and quality imagining.
Nice one. Thankyou :-)
I've really got a lot from watching your wiring videos and your explanation as to how everything works! Honestly you would make an excellent trainer! I've watch other videos from JW John Ward with diagrams ect and with your more practical approach and demonstrations, you have i'm sure learnt loads of people on here something that they didn't know..... Like the Earth is there to protect the cables and that is why most wiring on heating systems are wired incorrectly. GREAT video series on heating system wiring and very well put together. Thank you!!
Nice one. I'm glad you liked it. :-) These took a lot of time and I really found them hard. Nut they are done. 90% is behind me and the other 10% is a lot more interesting.
Very good. It's all very well explaining a wiring diagram, but it certainly helps to see it in a physical way too. Showing how a wiring centre brings it all together would be a good thing as well.
I have that coming up very soon.
Brilliant series of wiring videos pal. I work for an M+E company installing, so I’ve always had a sparky wire our systems and when they try explain the wiring it always goes over my head. They way you sequenced the vids was great and easy to follow, great content mate 👍
Cool, thanks. Thats the way I think about it. It needs to be simple for me to remember. :-)
That’s the most helpful video on y plans I’ve seen, well done bud great way to explain it.
Al.
Cool thanks :-)
fantastic video, Thank you! I'm just beginning my gas career and this was very helpful.
Good, you will need to practice it and it will become easy. :-)
Well thank you for your efforts 👍 thoroughly enjoyed your work here .
Brilliant
Just to say thank you. Great video, great explanation. Using the information you provided I managed to fix the problem with the valve not moving all the way to H due to a loose wire connection from the programmer. Keep up with the good work! Cheers
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Top video as standard. You're becoming more natural in your delivery too 👍🏾
Im trying :-)
Masterclass video, watched all 4 part, top man,say no more.
Much appreciated! Thanks :-)
That was great of you to teach this way. Thanks to your system of teaching. 👍
Glad it was helpful! It took me a while to work out how I was going to do it. :-)
had to watch this one 3 times but i get it now! thank you sooo much
Glad it helped! I can't work out a better way of doing it. I have given the wiring board to a new engineer to have a play with.
@@HeatingGeek not a easy thing to teach but I think your way of showing it is great way to understand it all
Got to be honest you made a lot of sense thank you
yeh enjoyed it. Started watching your videos again as i had a system with a fault. With just a hot water demand the divertor was in mid position. This happened if room stat had demand but prog only had hw demand. Only when room stat had no demand the divertor went to hot water only, where it should of been.
The problem ends up being the programmer aparantly.
Although the divertor was broke also, the spring return had fell to bits and jammed, also the indicator (hw ,m ,ch) was cracked off inside. A Drayton i think
❤ thanks for taking the time appreciate it hoping to change jobs soon done my acs and this is going help !
Keeping it real 👍 & stay strong 👍
Good Man, could not be easier than this to explain. Thanks
Hi mate fantastic videos many thanks. You said you was going to show us how to wire the pump overrun but I think you forgot to. Love to see a quick video of that please.
Great video. Would be great if you would do a video using 3 port valve with wiring center included. Thanks.
That was amazing, I finally understand HW Satisfied and the need for it
Cool, I'm glad it helped. :-)
Great videos pal. Love the presentation which beats doing manufacturer courses where you always have some half-wit who always thinks he knows best. Would love to see smart controllers wiring, starting with nest, lyric etc. Thanks again. Have now joined on Patreon
Much appreciated! Thanks, any questions just ask away :-)
I’ve always struggled with diagnosis of faults with everything except S plans. Watching this has made me make up my own board and practice fault finding.
The only suggestion I have is to make it more “real world” and have the wiring centre be a single gang in an airing cupboard with all of the wires be 3 core.😉
Your completely correct. I just don't have the time anymore.
Simply brilliant. Learnt wiring and enjoyed your video. Cant wait for your next videos. Learning a lot from your experience
Great to hear! Thanks
Thanks alot ,,very good very helpful,,I need to watch it again
Could anyone watch to the end??? :-)
Yes makes sense
I'll be watching it 10 times till the end until it fully sinks in. Love the videos keep making them! Smart controls yes, old school stuff yes, wiring center yes.
Yep! More plz 👍 great vid
Yeah I did, definitely going to watch a few more times too!
Get it dialled! Your a great teacher! Thanks again keep um coming 👍
Legend, a video on smart controls would be nice. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience 👍👍
Very informative mate thank you so much for your effort in putting this together
Thanks for watching it. :-)
Thank bro. You mentioned it.,you don't need permanent live on y plan!! Nice....I should knock out tomorrow....,👍🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳 Will need to run an extra off from grey stat to programmer HW off terminal... thanks again
great series of wiring videos and a fantastic recap from what i’ve learnt in college. It was good to see the 3 port wiring as well. Would be great to see some smart controls being installed. I’m interested in fault finding and i’m sure you’ve done plenty of videos on that so i’ll deffo be taking a look at those. Well done HG 👍
Glad you like it. :-) Loads of fault finding on here. :-)
Brilliant effort, and yes smart control vid will be great
that was brilliant, thank you for the most understanding explanation
I wish I could understand this more but I’m stupid lol
Great video as always bud. I’ll need to watch this a few times to get in to my head. Legend !!!
make sure you get the S plan stuff first. :-)
HeatingGeek yeah bro got that done to a t now hahahah. Great videos
I’ve watched this a few times more now and it’s sinking in. Legend my man. Thanks
@@DHILL82 Its a difficult subject. I was forced to learn when I was young. :-)
Brilliant video bud as always, all 3 video's in the series are superb, informative and easy to understand, as well as all the other you have done in real situations. Yeah I would like to see video on wiring centres and smart stuff. Can't wait for the next one mate.👍🔥
Very soon. :-)
Amazing work ,,keep it up mate,, wiring center and the fault finding video would be nice!
Will do. ASAP. I have a list as long as my arm. :-)
Thanks 👍 I just revised it again,
Good video, I've not seen a video on a Y plan with a extra 2 port zone valve
Brilliant stuff as always mate. Thank you so much. watched whole 4 videos.
Glad you enjoyed (probably the wrong word) it. I hope it helps. :-)
Very good explanation on the 3-port.
Maybe a video on Nest with a 3zone ,2for heating and one for HW
If you can wire a 2 port system then another zone is just another control circuit. Watch the 2 port videos and think of the nest as a programable roomstat.
Surely the very best video on this subject, thank you.
A question: LPG heat-only boiler, combination tank. We have a 3 port Honeywell Y plan setup, but my electrician is confused because we do NOT have a room stat -- the temperature is set from the boiler control -- and he's unsure about where the white from the motorised valve should go. The system has worked for 25 years, but after fiddling with the 10 block strip he thinks the white should go to block 4 instead of 5 as per the Honeywell diagram (but which includes a room stat). I don't understand his reasoning but he's the expert (apparently).
And now the hot water will not stay on without the heating being on. Hot water on its own fires up the boiler but it shuts down within a minute... but if the heating's on it stays on. I feel that's unrelated to the wiring, but I am definitely a beginner with all this. The 3 port valve is brand new, as are the tank stat and the controller.
So is there a different position for the white if there's no room stat? My ignorance, of course, is obvious!
Any advice gratefully received, even if it's simply "find a better electrician".
If you have no room stat the white wire needs to go to the "CH on" wire from your timer/programmer. This could be any terminal as most (including me) plumbers wire systems however it makes the cables neater.
Was the boiler always shutting down on HW early?
@@HeatingGeek No, only since the 3 port was changed.
@@2011zurich Why was it changed? My guess is it's wired wrong but it should be simple for a heating engineer to figure out.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you so much for this. It was changed because of a VERY occasional event, where when the heating was turned off while the HW was also on, the heating would stay on even though the programmer had turned it off. Only turning off the HW and then turning it back on would sort it out. I was told that was definitely the 3 port valve. And I'm assured it was connected exactly as before... although of course I have my doubts about what the electrician has done.
Time for someone else to look at it, I think... a heating engineer, perhaps!
Very helpful thanks.. Great video 👍
Very informative, many thanks for your time and sharing information.
Glad it was helpful!
As an electrician who has seen many many boiler-man's bird's-nest wiring
That control centre wiring looks like it belongs in a parallel universe where the tradesmen care more than just getting it to work.
Yes it does. Very unsettling when you open one up and all the wires stay in. :-)
Excellent series of videos, really appreciate it.
Good work well explained 👍
Thanks. :-)
I'm watching it early morning to soak in my brain cell memory lol ...wish I learnt it 5 yrs ago...the gas safe I shadowed teaching me the installs and repair,,confuses me with the theory limitation in explaining ..it's like asking granny directions..especially with white wire! No mention of the 2 offs with Grey..2 sl to boiler
Yours much clearer, appreciate the effort boss
No problem. :-)
Great explanation well done
Thanks for watching. :-)
Brilliant as usual quality videos ..thank you
Another excellent video.
Glad you like it. A bit repitive (wrong spelling) but hopefully gets the point across.
Great display, I see you use Drayton, always used Honeywell, y plans, s plans and s plans + for the bigger installations. Although synchron motors could be a problem over time. Keep up the good work 👏👏
Thanks! Drayton were kind enough to give me the kit to do the videos. :-)
Thanks a lot ,you are the best!
You're welcome!
Thanks for doing this.
Well done, great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Hopefully this will fix my problem
Great video as always Ollie, watched til the end 👍Could you do a real life situation messy wiring centre how to identify if possible
I will ASAP. Not working at the moment though. :-)
Same here, only going out if people are badly stuck
@@dougieluffs Nice one. :-) You have to be as safe as possible
Thanks for the video. And yeah I did watch it to the end 👍. Thankyou
Awesome thank you!
Brilliantly done 👍
Nice. If it only helps a few people then it was worth it. :-)
HeatingGeek it certainly helped me understand how s plan works I’m just at the end of my NVQ level 2
Later starter in life so all this helps
Many thanks for sharing you knowledge 👍
You are legend mate
Thanks
Excellent. You are Super star
Super video really helped me understand wiring one question when you fault find and you want to by-pass the room thermostat do you link out 1&3 on a T6360 roomstat.
Can you do a video covering the voltage anomaly on a 3 port system, and how to get around the problem by fitting a suppressor or as you put it a snapper.
Thanks
All great videos looking forward to next one. Be safe
I already done one. th-cam.com/video/hh07m9roX9c/w-d-xo.html
Well explained.
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for watching. :-)
Hello mate really appreciate your videos they are very detailed and helpfull, would like to see the wiring centre and smart controls I am looking to start my CCN1 &CENWAT training early next year.
Stay Safe.
I will do it ASAP.:-)
Thank you so much for taking the time to shoot all these videos. Absolutely brilliant! Can I ask if you know why the 3 port gets stuck on heating only when demand is lost? You'd have thought that if you lost power from the controller for heating but the power from the hot water off signal was still there that the valve would return to resting position?
Its the" hot water off" that moves the valve to heating only. You don't lose the "hot water off" when you lose the "heating on" demand. So the valve stays in heating only. :-) Some valves will motor off. Not Honeywell or Drayton though.
Can you link the other viseos in this series? Or share the playlist (i e. Those 3 s plans prior to watch)
Hi, Go to my channel then to playlists and wiring is one of them. If you can find it let me know and I will have a look for some links.
On Central Heating only, does the room thermostat still play a part.? Is it wired in and so can still turn off the boiler and pump if it's heat setting is reached?
Thanks sir
You are very helpful
Most welcome. :-)
what does it mean to become a patron?
nice video.stay safe.
Thanks, you too!
Thank you I’ve been chasing this fault ( I thought it was a fault) until I saw this great video, can I ask , is it a problem for the motor on the 3 port valve being powered over all the time? Over heating or power consumption? Regards
Hi there, today I found a brown wire on y plan ?? Where would it go..?? Is it a permanent live? Help help
Sorry to bother you. I love your videos and im learning alot coming from an installation back ground.
I just wondered. Why do you wire it to hot water off on the programmer and not CH on?
Thank you
Wouldnt the 3 port need a feed from central heating ON, in order to tell it to motor over to get the orange cable turn into a switch live?
In my head, if the hot water isnt selected and is in the off position. The the boiler would call for central heating demand???
I hope this makes sense. Thank you so much. Its helping me become more confident in this area
Im sorry i didn't answer this. The CH ON only takes the valve to mid position it needs the HW OFF to take it all the way to CH only. Weird, but thats how it works. :-)
*** Awesome video ***
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Great vid
Good video 👍 Have you used a wago wiring centre yet ?
No. I'm a bit old school with that.
Excellent. Can you put schematic diagrams with colours of wires showing
Informative video thanks. Wonder if you could help. I have an electric boiler (Powerstream Ascari) which is not even 2 years old. It is a Y plan with an unvented cylinder. The pump is within the boiler. Oddly the pump goes off every 6 hours even when no heat is being called for and when the standby power button for the boiler is off! This is causing it to go off during the night and the pump is noisy as it is in a cupboard next to the bedroom, so every night is a broken sleep. A neighbour with the same boiler also had this issue but managed to get it fixed but has no clue how it was fixed and I have not been able to contact her plumber. Do you have any idea what could be wrong?
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Excellent thanks
Great Video very informative can you do a video wiring a Nest thermostat to a Y Plan please
I don't have a nest to do it with :-) Sorry
HeatingGeek ok thanks anyway. Don’t suppose you can advise. My 3 port valve works as it should re calling for heat or water but the boiler doesn’t fire in heat but does water and mix is also ok just heat alone the boiler doesn’t fire. The 3 port valve is warm to touch even when pipes cold I assume it’s failure? Am I right in thinking when the call for heat ( heat connected to white wire) it should flick a switch in 3 port valve to send power to orange and fire boiler. If so I assume my 3 port is faulty. Your expert advise would be greatly appreciated.
Is an Ideal logic Max 15kw boiler suitable for replacing a Potterton boiler in a y plan system (6 radiators)
More than likely. Depends on the heat requirement for the premises. What size was the old boiler? Although not a great way to size a boiler it can be used as a guide.
Can you wire a 3 port mid position valve in a way NOT to give hot water priority.
Yes. As long as you have a CH off from the programmer.
@@HeatingGeek thank you, I’ve seen a couple of your videos and sorted it. The 2 off’s in with the grey wire from the mid po and the hive set to the gravity setting. THANK YOU 👍🍺
@@haribo1468 Glad you got it sorted. :-)
absolute legend
Thanks :-)
We have a 3 port mid position valve, but there is no additional 'off' wire in the wall stat? The wall stat just has the one heating call wire, i assume this has been wired wrong, and the heating wouldn't working if the hot water wasn't on, we leave to hot water on constant?
No. The wall (room) Stat doesn't need an off wire. Only the cylinder (hot water) stat needs an off. If your heating only works when the HW is on then: the valve is faulty, the motor in the valve is faulty, or the system is a HW priority type.
@@HeatingGeek Ok thanks, i will check into that, i have noticed that that rads get warm with the heating off, and the hot water on only. so i guess that points to faulty valve?
Think you very much
No problem.
Hi, firstly I want to say thank you for the video, it was very informative.
I was wondering if you could help me with my problem:
When I turn on the hot water the rads come on but no hot water, same thing when both HW and CH are turned on.
I have been away for about a year and boiler wasn't used much.
This happened last year also, I was away for months, however that time it started working again after a week or two of boiler use.
Do you think I have a faulty motor or is the valve stuck in the CH position? I'm confused, because last time the problem fixed itself (is it possible for the valve to get unstuck by itself?).
Do I need to replace the motor or the whole valve including the motor. It's a Salus SBMV32 valve (the control panel and stats are also by Salus).
I felt the hot water pipe feed that goes in to the water tank and its really hot at the port side and relatively warm further along, the closer it gets to the water tank.
Could I have an air lock in the system?
I have a gravity fed system on a Y-Plan (3-Port Valve)
I look forward to your reply.
Sounds like a stuck valve.
@heatinggeek when i press CH nothing happens the only way I can get CH is by turning the hot water on too from the programmer ...or I have to move the actuator to manual any ideas
valve issue.
@@HeatingGeek Thanks fella I managed to fix the wiring so now the heating comes on without hot water...However hot water only doesn't work. The spring either goes to mid position or to heating position but not to water only. If I disconnect the programmer the spring whirs all the way back to hot water only...which gives me the impression somewhere there's a wiring fault. I'm happy to pay you for a video call diagnostics if that's possible?
My boiler has a white and black cable and I’m not sure what to do with them?
Hi, good tutorial and I've checked wiring but I Drayton 3 port valve (new replacement) sticks in mid position intermittently so house melts and water super heats. Same problem with old valve, which is why I replaced it, I've also replaced everything else cept boiler. I've buzzed out the wiring and it is correct to Drayton's 3 port mid valve circuit. Previous owner may have had same problem as found receipt for replacement valve only 6 months before I bought house. Spoke to Drayton tech and they said Worcester Bosch 24i (sealed system) boiler's integral pump may need a clip-on ferrite suppressor so fitted one but still same fault every few weeks. Other times system works fine ???? Help? Nick, Somerset
I think your issue my be the cylinder stat or back feed voltage from the 3 port. Check out my video about heating not turning off.
@@HeatingGeek thanks I'll find that video . Much appreciated.
Nick
Another great video.
Can I pick your brain? My father-in-law has an issue with his "Y" plan system. Heating is working fine, hot water on the other hand is intermittent.
Regardless of his heating being on or off some days he will have hot water others he doesn't. I have changed his tank stat as it was broken inside and it worked afterwards and then stopped again the very next day so it wasn't that. I took the head of my 3 port valve and put in onto his and the issue was still there. I have yet to check the power supplies as I didn't have my meter with me. Could it be an intermittent fault in the timer? The timer is a Honeywell ST699. Any help would be much appreciated.
I guess you have it sorted now. my guess would of been the st699
@@HeatingGeek
Hi, you are correct it was the timer all sorted now. Cheers
Good video again hg
Hi
I have a Honeywell 3 port valve (V4073A) and the CH only works if the HW is also on. I have carried out a voltage test and it appears that when the CH only is on there is 240v coming from both white and grey wires, however the orange remains at 0v. The HW off wire and HW CYL stat wires are also reading 0v which I believe after watching your video is the reason that the orange isn’t becoming live and firing up the boiler?
The power head in the valve was recently changed as water dripped into the motor and the system shorted, tripping the RCD and blowing the 3A fuse in the programmer switch. I have checked the valve positions and they seem to be working ok but was wondering if there is a problem with either the programmer or cyl stat and was hoping you may have a suggestion. Many thanks
If the grey and white wires are both 240v then the orange should also be 240v. Otherwise the valve may be stuck or the synchrony motor is faulty.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you heatingGeek. I took the new power head back and got a replacement and all is good. I appears that a micro switch was faulty in the first one. Excellent video though as it allowed me to fully understand and follow the wiring and identify where the fault was. 👌
@@NeilCRees69 Nice one. I'm glad you got it sorted. :-)
great vid thanks
Could i use this setup for UFH and heating... I have a 3 port between the main feed pipe. B being ch and A being UFH, but id like them to be independent.... Any help appreciated!
Of course you can. The water doesn't know what it's doing.
@@HeatingGeek any chance I can run it by you? I'm at a loss with it
@@arinb12 yeah, just message on here.
@@HeatingGeek tried to send over insta, might be easier than me leaving comments all over your video.
@@arinb12 all you need to do is get a off (from the programmer and room stat) from the zone attached to port B. then just wire it up as a you would a HW zone. You might not be able to use certain controls because they don't have "offs". I hope this makes sense
Can you do underfloor heating manifold and boiler control.my electrician hasnt an idea and my plumber wants to have the boiler running on a loop until the floor calls for heat.HHeeellppp! Thank you
Im sure you must have this done by now. :-)
What happens when you replace the Honeywell head and the new head has 6 wires instead of 5
A Brown wire?
The extra wire on a 2 port head should be white. If you have an extra brown you may have the wrong head. Ie 2 port head on a 3 port valve. Look on the head diagram and it will show the ports on the valve.
I am having a problem with my boiler not turning on the hot water, the three port valve motor works to engage the central heating but will not fire up the water when required, I have replaced the thermostat thinking that might have been faulty, but still it won't call hot water?
The 3 port valve doesn't do anything on a normal Y plan system to call the boiler to fire. All the control comes from the stat or the programmer.
Thanks for that got home, house was freezing, so not only was the water not working but also the heating was off so when you mentioned the controller I actually pressed it from the front and everything came back on, it would seem that the front of the unit is plugged into the backing and had been knocked.
@@guywilloughby3383 Cool. glad its sorted. :-)