An interesting experiment. I was routing for the vented side and was pleased to see it win… I’d have been surprised if it hadn’t as you’re using Petrobond there. Green sand is allegedly different in that it at least in part allows gasses to flow into it (or so I’ve read). However, I have reservations with the fluidity test. Flow stops when the metal freezes because the temperature has dropped. By coiling the run in this manner, you’re pre-heating the sand long before the metal gets there. So what might flow two feet in a tight spiral might only flow 18 inches in a straight line. This is just my speculation… maybe you can test it : )
I don't think it matters if it flows 2 inches or 2 feet, it's a comparative thing. Did vented flow further than non-vented? Given both sides came out of the same pour, same temperature, same crap metal, same preheated spiral... would vented flow further than non vented. I expect that in a straight run, I'd see similar results, the vented side would flow further. Nice recycled knife btw. ;-)
Don’t worry mate, I’m not knocking your experiment which was clearly labelled “to vent or not to vent” and which surmised the process beautifully. I’ve suggesting that the concept of fluidity as described in the book is indeed comparative, but is that conveyed? I don’t recall it being (however, it was a while ago I read it). The danger with such as test is that it implies, metal A flows this far, metal B flows this far, etc. Of course it doesn’t. It’s more the case, “In THIS SPECIFIC SITUATION, metal A flows this far, metal B flows this far,” etc. Straight lines, spirals, run widths, sand, initial temperature, etc, so many factors could effect it. But as a batter for the venting team, I’m glad we won ; )
Interesting exercise Perry. I guess that the main lesson for everyone is that things need to be tailored to individual circumstances. Type of sand, type of metal, quality of the metal, Size of casting with care taken with thin or narrow parts or extremities. Temperature of the metal just prior to pouring, as well as the mold and within the foundry location. So many variables would indicate the need to keep a diary to record variables and make it easier to isolate the cause of any problems.
In fact, if you talk to olfoundryman, that's exactly what he does. He claims he has every pour recorded. I expect he does. I've got to get something that I can measure my temperature with. As it is now, every pour I do is blind in terms of how hot the metal is. But, yes so many things to consider and no two set ups are going to be exactly alike. I doubt that anyone has sand quite like mine ;-)
A Pyrometer thermocouple for measuring the molten metal temperature is very important in hitting that target 10% superheat (10% is a general rule of thumb, some alloys need more)
I have noticed with other casting videos that aluminium tends to look very shiney after drossing. As it cools in the mold risers it goes a matt finish as it begins to set/solidify.
Superheat is the difference in temperature between the melting point of a metal and the actual pouring temperature for casting with that metal. pouring temp = melting temperature + Superheat For aluminum alloys, the optimum pouring temperature range is 700°C to 750°C (1292F to 1382F) the Melting Point of say 6061 is 582 - 652 °C (1079.6F - 1205.6F) so it requires a superheat of about 100C (rough estimate) This can be used to quantify energy requirements like how much propane you need to melt a metal (but most people just go for the middle of the target pouring temperature range)
Paused at 14:26 I would like to think that they both went about the same distance possibly all the way but like you said it's all down to the way the sand is so it could be anyone's choice really. Love the approach you have taken in your videos & the way that you've got so much better in the time that I've been watching you 👍
I’m guessing vented will go further if not right to the end and up 🤔.i have no idea when it comes to these tests I hope I’m right ??? Phew right on the money👍🏻. Even a broken clocks right twice a day😁. I like these tests you do there soo informative cheers Perry 🤘🏻😁🤘🏻
Nice work through of this standard fluidity test. Really helps show what you need for your specific sand, the environment and the metal you are pouring.
Nice testing, really enjoy these test and theory. I've watched lucky gen also and was surprised at his techniques. I believe it determines many factors, size sprue type sand , temp of metal at pour and other factors we don't understand yet, I'm going to learn common sense technique that work for me and my set-up. Nice video always learn from your content thank you.
Thanks Ray. Yeah, luckygen and I have had a few conversations about our different results. He's pretty firm on his "no need for vents" stance. I can see why, he seems to be able to pull it off without them. I haven't been able to achieve the same results without them.
Very informative video my friend! Well done 👍🏻 couple of questions, do you think it would make a difference on the type of metal you’re pouring? And 2, when you said 10w 30 oil you used was that regular or synthetic?
Regular, non-detergent motor oil. Non-detergent is the key. Good question on the different types of metal. I assume the outcomes would be similar but don;t know. Maybe, if I ever get tons of free time, I'll try the same pattern with bronze, just to see.
swdweeb cool thanks for the info 👍🏻 yeah with brass I can’t seem to get my coins filled in cause they’re thin but with aluminum I have no problem at all.. 🤷🏻♂️
Different metals have different fluidity. The amount of super heat in the melted metal also affects the metal fluidity. Among a number of other factors.
Given the nature of the Perry-bond sand, as compared to greensand, I'm going to put my money on the vented side. Edit: Okay, that went as I expected (or guessed.) But I'm inclined to think that a vented greensand mold might be a good idea with long flows or with thin castings, just to minimize the work the fluid has to do to occupy the empty space. I've had a problem with pitting on my aluminum bronze castings, and have determined that it is probably from too much moisture in the sand. I did successfully mold and pour a very thin spearhead casting about 9" long, but only barely, as the metal solidified just as it reached the riser at the far end of the casting. If the mold had not been vented by the riser, I'm wondering if steam pressure from the excess moisture in the sand would have prevented the metal from flowing as far as it did. Good experiment. I like that you linked to LuckyGen1001's video for comparison. I had seen it before, but it was good to take a look at it again.
Personally I'd suggest, if you have the time and the energy and the inclination, that you do a test with one vented and one without. If you can do like I did and do them side by side that throws a lot of variables out the window. I'd be curious to hear if a vent would help your pitting.
Good test! I like that both samples came from the same pour, so nobody can question if pouring temperature affected the results. The unvented spiral filled farther than I expected it to. You could use the same pattern to test various other things such as the effects of using a thin venting wire all over one side of the mold, or of ramming harder vs softer etc. Greensand and petrobond are pretty different animals I guess, plus Luckygen does a lot of iron casting too, so his greensand is likely coarser and more permeable than most water bonded sands intended for nonferrous casting.
And yet I got a dislike :-D Sometimes I just have to shake my head. Yeah, I purposely built two for that reason, no argument about pour rate, temperature, crap alloy, any of it. They were exactly the same. Some did ask about norther versus southern hemisphere :-D If Were to use do any of this again, I'd print two new spirals. This one had no draft on it and it was a bear to get out of the mold.
@@swdweeb OMG that's right, I have been forgetting the all powerful coriolis effect! Great, now I'm going to have to rebuild my whole furnace so its tuyere swirls clockwise instead of counterclockwise... 😀
I can't believe you built your furnace without flushing the toilet as a last check to make sure your flame goes the right direction. I'm unsubbing you right now. ;-)
There is a school of thought that not venting a part causes the metal to ram into the sand harder and and potentially force its way in between the grains thus causing a rougher part. I don't have experience to tell me if that is the case or not. I assume that you're talking about poking wire down into the sand to vent it. In that case some guys don;t actually touch the pattern with the wire so I can't see there that would leave any bumps/ If you touch the part with the wire, odds are you're going to have little numbs you're going to have to get rid of.
How much does weight of molten material play in this? There has to be a flow rate that is based on coefficient of friction plus weight of material pushing down on the flow, I guess that is force, but against back pressure from the mold. I wonder if, given the same force and flow but one side had less back pressure would stop the flow prematurely on one side since it had less back pressure from the vented side and it is all connected by the cross piece. Just thinking out loud.
Not sure I'm following you 100%... I think heavier metal would show different results in the same pattern. However I think that if were to extend the pattern by two or three times the length we'd have seen similar results, just further down the line. Of course that is my opinion and I could be, and quite frequently am, wrong ;-)
I was wondering more about "path of least resistance" . Since both are from same pour spout and the non-vented side has back pressure. would it stop flowing sooner because the vented side has less back pressure. I guess I wonder if you poured the unvented side alone would it go further. Like I said. Just thinking out loud. Not trying to make you do more experiments. :)
I'm thinking the vented side flowed further, but it will be interesting to see what actually happens. (I'm viewing this several hours after you posted and avoided at looking at the other comments before I wrote my guess here :-)
@@swdweeb it was interesting to see such a big difference. Thank you for the stl files. I printed off a set and want to see the difference between the pop can aluminium (which I understand is probably a 3004 alloy) and aluminium from different cast aluminium sources I have (hard drives and such). My reading suggests that the 3004 alloy is not as fluid as the casting aluminium. I had hoped to get in the shop this weekend but life keeps getting in the way if shop time :-(. Thanks again for the great information.
swdweeb oh, it's in the plans... current schedule suggests maybe late 2020 for a furnace build (unless I can justify needing it for something sooner than that) Need to get through finishing up this trommel build. Then things will slow down hopefully with more focused monthly releases. I've got a big project in the pipeline with buttons and switches that needs to get completed (only 4+ years in the making). That project will need to come before anything else like playing with melted metal. (it's only been some 25 years since I last did a pour)
Check out Paul's channel, Paul's Garage, as he has built himself a foundry that is designed to be packed away when playtime, sorry, casting time is over.
Mark Fryer I like Paul's firebrick design, and the castable design of MarkHarriss, and the kaowool design of Make it Extreme (although they should have coated their kaowool). lots of projects are on the schedule, but one project at a time for the moment. (someday maybe I'll get back to the charcoal Forge I started 20 years ago) I want to get to building a fusor and to do lots of other things like rebuilding my grandfather's DIY arc welder.
My guess is that neither will have filled fully, because you didn't have a pop or any smoke come out of the vent. Assuming the vent was clear, and there were no issues with the mould, the vented side should have flowed further.
Very nice of you to share the files for free. Did you run a string around the two to measure the distance of the runs? Would be interesting to quantify the difference in flow lengths.
Lol, good job mixing your kilograms and your kilometers... (but I'm sure you know that... next you will be doing some wild west conversions like This Old Tony and start talking in McDonald's quarter pounders and smelly feet)
Well, I didn’t post my guess.. but tbh it was that for your sand I figured they would both fill completely for this test. This video was definitely educational, I learned something new about casting today that I haven’t seen or read a reference to. Thanks man!
@@nutsandbolts3729 Nah, I tried it once and got my feelings hurt when I searched on my channel name and saw what people were saying about me before I joined. Never went back. ;-)
I would have liked to see luckygen try it with your pattern. He illustrated results were equal for his pattern which I believe is shorter? And thanks for sharing the stl
Perry you may find it easier if you just work in Millimetres, rather than swapping between mm and cm. I find that because I work in mm all the time in my work that conversion to centimetres requires extra thought, something that you don't need when talking to camera while casting and videoing. Just one less thing to worry about.
I thought that coarser sand allows gasses to escape between the gaps more than fine sand and makes metal flow more freely. Rougher surface finish though.
Mark Fryer like I said "wild west conversions" an estimate seemed close enough for gaging if it was the wrong unit. Although I'm not as good at wild west conversions as This Old Tony who went from N⋅m to foot-pounds using McDonald's quarter pounders and smelly feet.
Hi I just recently started watching your channel, and I am enjoying it 'UUgghly. I watched your first review of Campbell's book and tried the link supplied. I got anything from 'timed out' to a '404'.Would you post it again?
I would love to, but apparently the company that I bought it from is out of business or doesn't sell it any more. I'm sorry. I'll adjust the description to remove the link.
I got it here, but the site has been down for about a week that I know of digitalbookfinder.com/products/12980?variant=6794768842794. It was only like $30
Mark Fryer I found the book a while back in a PDF form, from a 3rd party collage bookstore. The link is in the video description swdweeb did a few months back (early August maybe)... I assume they are still offering it at a discount price (they seem to always say sale ending) I'll find and post the link here for you once I finish up some block diagram stuff I need to get out by midnight tonight. (Assuming swdweeb doesn't get to it first... yep he got to it first)
I am guessing right side since we are north of Equator if however we were in Australia I would guess left side. Will have to have VegOil Guy try same Experiment!
Hey man. It's only squishy when it's loose in the box. Once I start to pack it, it firms right up. If you watch Martin, his sand is green sand and it looks squishy until he packs it. th-cam.com/video/Ssl95B8ESDM/w-d-xo.html
swdweeb well if you really wanted you could make it a banned phrase... but I think that's for the whole channel and not for a specific video... and even then you're going to be playing whack a mole with it.
@@swdweeb well, you have the option of overdubbing in some editing programs. If you catch a mis speak mistake before you upload, you could narrate over the mistake. Do a correction instead of a beep (like for censorship). Does anyone else see your videos before you upload? Sometimes we have trouble noticing our own mistakes. Not a big deal unless someone chooses to make it one.
Yeah, generally no one else see the videos before they post. On rare occasion if I get them done soon enough (very rare) I share them with one or two people. There is some editing capability after it is uploaded but I don't know what I can do. with it. The thought of over-dubbing, re-rendering, and re uploading just seems like a lot of work for something that really isn't all that important. (I know I was off by a factor of ten but the point was that you can get longer flow tests in a spiral than a straight line allows.)
Post upload to TH-cam I think you can replace all the audio with music, or cut a scene out of the video. It's really limited. I've heard people on other channels say "reupload" but I've never seen an actual "reupload" option or tutorial. I would love to fix a dark video on my other channel, but I've not been able to successfully find how to do so now that it's posted to TH-cam.
An interesting experiment. I was routing for the vented side and was pleased to see it win… I’d have been surprised if it hadn’t as you’re using Petrobond there. Green sand is allegedly different in that it at least in part allows gasses to flow into it (or so I’ve read).
However, I have reservations with the fluidity test. Flow stops when the metal freezes because the temperature has dropped. By coiling the run in this manner, you’re pre-heating the sand long before the metal gets there. So what might flow two feet in a tight spiral might only flow 18 inches in a straight line. This is just my speculation… maybe you can test it : )
I don't think it matters if it flows 2 inches or 2 feet, it's a comparative thing. Did vented flow further than non-vented? Given both sides came out of the same pour, same temperature, same crap metal, same preheated spiral... would vented flow further than non vented. I expect that in a straight run, I'd see similar results, the vented side would flow further.
Nice recycled knife btw. ;-)
Don’t worry mate, I’m not knocking your experiment which was clearly labelled “to vent or not to vent” and which surmised the process beautifully. I’ve suggesting that the concept of fluidity as described in the book is indeed comparative, but is that conveyed? I don’t recall it being (however, it was a while ago I read it). The danger with such as test is that it implies, metal A flows this far, metal B flows this far, etc. Of course it doesn’t. It’s more the case, “In THIS SPECIFIC SITUATION, metal A flows this far, metal B flows this far,” etc. Straight lines, spirals, run widths, sand, initial temperature, etc, so many factors could effect it.
But as a batter for the venting team, I’m glad we won ; )
I think you hit it spot on, "in this specific situation" We get so caught up in it worked for me this way, so it must work for everyone this way.
Exactly mate. I wish there was a one-size-fits-all soloution : )
Interesting exercise Perry. I guess that the main lesson for everyone is that things need to be tailored to individual circumstances. Type of sand, type of metal, quality of the metal, Size of casting with care taken with thin or narrow parts or extremities. Temperature of the metal just prior to pouring, as well as the mold and within the foundry location. So many variables would indicate the need to keep a diary to record variables and make it easier to isolate the cause of any problems.
In fact, if you talk to olfoundryman, that's exactly what he does. He claims he has every pour recorded. I expect he does. I've got to get something that I can measure my temperature with. As it is now, every pour I do is blind in terms of how hot the metal is.
But, yes so many things to consider and no two set ups are going to be exactly alike. I doubt that anyone has sand quite like mine ;-)
A Pyrometer thermocouple for measuring the molten metal temperature is very important in hitting that target 10% superheat (10% is a general rule of thumb, some alloys need more)
Walt Sorensen Walt can you please explain Super Heat in relation to casting?
Thanks
I have noticed with other casting videos that aluminium tends to look very shiney after drossing. As it cools in the mold risers it goes a matt finish as it begins to set/solidify.
Superheat is the difference in temperature between the melting point of a metal and the actual pouring temperature for casting with that metal.
pouring temp = melting temperature + Superheat
For aluminum alloys, the optimum pouring temperature range is 700°C to 750°C (1292F to 1382F)
the Melting Point of say 6061 is 582 - 652 °C (1079.6F - 1205.6F)
so it requires a superheat of about 100C (rough estimate)
This can be used to quantify energy requirements like how much propane you need to melt a metal (but most people just go for the middle of the target pouring temperature range)
Paused at 14:26 I would like to think that they both went about the same distance possibly all the way but like you said it's all down to the way the sand is so it could be anyone's choice really. Love the approach you have taken in your videos & the way that you've got so much better in the time that I've been watching you 👍
Thanks Steve. I really wasn’t sure what would happen on the non-vented side. I wouldn’t have been shocked to see it go all the way too
I’m guessing vented will go further if not right to the end and up 🤔.i have no idea when it comes to these tests I hope I’m right ???
Phew right on the money👍🏻. Even a broken clocks right twice a day😁. I like these tests you do there soo informative cheers Perry
🤘🏻😁🤘🏻
Nice work through of this standard fluidity test. Really helps show what you need for your specific sand, the environment and the metal you are pouring.
Thanks. It was good to prove it for myself.
True, Somethings are best experienced not just read about, or observed from other people's tests.
Nice testing, really enjoy these test and theory. I've watched lucky gen also and was surprised at his techniques. I believe it determines many factors, size sprue type sand , temp of metal at pour and other factors we don't understand yet, I'm going to learn common sense technique that work for me and my set-up. Nice video always learn from your content thank you.
Thanks Ray. Yeah, luckygen and I have had a few conversations about our different results. He's pretty firm on his "no need for vents" stance. I can see why, he seems to be able to pull it off without them. I haven't been able to achieve the same results without them.
Very informative video my friend! Well done 👍🏻 couple of questions, do you think it would make a difference on the type of metal you’re pouring? And 2, when you said 10w 30 oil you used was that regular or synthetic?
Regular, non-detergent motor oil. Non-detergent is the key.
Good question on the different types of metal. I assume the outcomes would be similar but don;t know. Maybe, if I ever get tons of free time, I'll try the same pattern with bronze, just to see.
swdweeb cool thanks for the info 👍🏻 yeah with brass I can’t seem to get my coins filled in cause they’re thin but with aluminum I have no problem at all.. 🤷🏻♂️
Different metals have different fluidity. The amount of super heat in the melted metal also affects the metal fluidity. Among a number of other factors.
Walt Sorensen thanks Walt
ArtByAdrock you are welcome.
Given the nature of the Perry-bond sand, as compared to greensand, I'm going to put my money on the vented side.
Edit: Okay, that went as I expected (or guessed.) But I'm inclined to think that a vented greensand mold might be a good idea with long flows or with thin castings, just to minimize the work the fluid has to do to occupy the empty space. I've had a problem with pitting on my aluminum bronze castings, and have determined that it is probably from too much moisture in the sand. I did successfully mold and pour a very thin spearhead casting about 9" long, but only barely, as the metal solidified just as it reached the riser at the far end of the casting. If the mold had not been vented by the riser, I'm wondering if steam pressure from the excess moisture in the sand would have prevented the metal from flowing as far as it did.
Good experiment. I like that you linked to LuckyGen1001's video for comparison. I had seen it before, but it was good to take a look at it again.
Personally I'd suggest, if you have the time and the energy and the inclination, that you do a test with one vented and one without. If you can do like I did and do them side by side that throws a lot of variables out the window. I'd be curious to hear if a vent would help your pitting.
Good test! I like that both samples came from the same pour, so nobody can question if pouring temperature affected the results. The unvented spiral filled farther than I expected it to. You could use the same pattern to test various other things such as the effects of using a thin venting wire all over one side of the mold, or of ramming harder vs softer etc. Greensand and petrobond are pretty different animals I guess, plus Luckygen does a lot of iron casting too, so his greensand is likely coarser and more permeable than most water bonded sands intended for nonferrous casting.
And yet I got a dislike :-D Sometimes I just have to shake my head. Yeah, I purposely built two for that reason, no argument about pour rate, temperature, crap alloy, any of it. They were exactly the same. Some did ask about norther versus southern hemisphere :-D
If Were to use do any of this again, I'd print two new spirals. This one had no draft on it and it was a bear to get out of the mold.
@@swdweeb OMG that's right, I have been forgetting the all powerful coriolis effect! Great, now I'm going to have to rebuild my whole furnace so its tuyere swirls clockwise instead of counterclockwise... 😀
I can't believe you built your furnace without flushing the toilet as a last check to make sure your flame goes the right direction. I'm unsubbing you right now. ;-)
Vent makes sense to me with your setup.
If others don't use a vent and it vent through the sand wouldn't their casting be very rough?
Great demo
There is a school of thought that not venting a part causes the metal to ram into the sand harder and and potentially force its way in between the grains thus causing a rougher part. I don't have experience to tell me if that is the case or not.
I assume that you're talking about poking wire down into the sand to vent it. In that case some guys don;t actually touch the pattern with the wire so I can't see there that would leave any bumps/ If you touch the part with the wire, odds are you're going to have little numbs you're going to have to get rid of.
Or the metal was able to overcome the pressure on the unvented side.
I wonder if the two forms were separate, whether the results would be similar.
Good question, someday, if I get the tlme, I'll try one unvented by itself.
How much does weight of molten material play in this? There has to be a flow rate that is based on coefficient of friction plus weight of material pushing down on the flow, I guess that is force, but against back pressure from the mold. I wonder if, given the same force and flow but one side had less back pressure would stop the flow prematurely on one side since it had less back pressure from the vented side and it is all connected by the cross piece. Just thinking out loud.
Not sure I'm following you 100%... I think heavier metal would show different results in the same pattern. However I think that if were to extend the pattern by two or three times the length we'd have seen similar results, just further down the line. Of course that is my opinion and I could be, and quite frequently am, wrong ;-)
I was wondering more about "path of least resistance" . Since both are from same pour spout and the non-vented side has back pressure. would it stop flowing sooner because the vented side has less back pressure. I guess I wonder if you poured the unvented side alone would it go further. Like I said. Just thinking out loud. Not trying to make you do more experiments. :)
that's cool, I appreciate the thinking. ;-) I don;t know if a single would have made it to the end. Hard to say without trying it.
Really enjoying the videos . Take care .
I'm thinking the vented side flowed further, but it will be interesting to see what actually happens. (I'm viewing this several hours after you posted and avoided at looking at the other comments before I wrote my guess here :-)
Well, by now I guess you know you were right ;-) Did the non-vented side flow as further than you expected?
@@swdweeb it was interesting to see such a big difference. Thank you for the stl files. I printed off a set and want to see the difference between the pop can aluminium (which I understand is probably a 3004 alloy) and aluminium from different cast aluminium sources I have (hard drives and such). My reading suggests that the 3004 alloy is not as fluid as the casting aluminium. I had hoped to get in the shop this weekend but life keeps getting in the way if shop time :-(. Thanks again for the great information.
Man I would love to see the results of that test myself.
Wondering how this would go with venting the sand and not the pattern...(oh the things I would do if I had space and time for a foundry)
I can't do everything for you, you're just going to have to knuckle down and build a furnace :-D
swdweeb oh, it's in the plans... current schedule suggests maybe late 2020 for a furnace build (unless I can justify needing it for something sooner than that)
Need to get through finishing up this trommel build. Then things will slow down hopefully with more focused monthly releases. I've got a big project in the pipeline with buttons and switches that needs to get completed (only 4+ years in the making). That project will need to come before anything else like playing with melted metal. (it's only been some 25 years since I last did a pour)
Check out Paul's channel, Paul's Garage, as he has built himself a foundry that is designed to be packed away when playtime, sorry, casting time is over.
Mark Fryer I like Paul's firebrick design, and the castable design of MarkHarriss, and the kaowool design of Make it Extreme (although they should have coated their kaowool).
lots of projects are on the schedule, but one project at a time for the moment. (someday maybe I'll get back to the charcoal Forge I started 20 years ago)
I want to get to building a fusor and to do lots of other things like rebuilding my grandfather's DIY arc welder.
My guess is that neither will have filled fully, because you didn't have a pop or any smoke come out of the vent. Assuming the vent was clear, and there were no issues with the mould, the vented side should have flowed further.
:-D. I think I only get explosions when I pour bronze.
Very nice of you to share the files for free. Did you run a string around the two to measure the distance of the runs? Would be interesting to quantify the difference in flow lengths.
No, I used a scale. I'm within a kilometer in my measurements, I'm pretty certain ;-)
Lol, good job mixing your kilograms and your kilometers... (but I'm sure you know that... next you will be doing some wild west conversions like This Old Tony and start talking in McDonald's quarter pounders and smelly feet)
Well, I didn’t post my guess.. but tbh it was that for your sand I figured they would both fill completely for this test. This video was definitely educational, I learned something new about casting today that I haven’t seen or read a reference to. Thanks man!
You're more than welcome. It was educational for me as well. I really do need to do more of this sort of stuff.
Are you ever on discord?
@@nutsandbolts3729 Nah, I tried it once and got my feelings hurt when I searched on my channel name and saw what people were saying about me before I joined. Never went back. ;-)
swdweeb is there a good way to have a less public conversation than here that you do use?
swdweeb@gmail.com
I would have liked to see luckygen try it with your pattern. He illustrated results were equal for his pattern which I believe is shorter? And thanks for sharing the stl
Well, he did his tests two years ago, so... Maybe you should suggest a retest to him. ;-)
He does not seem interested.
:-D You asked?? I didn't figure there's be any interest. That's too funny. Thanks for trying.
Perry you may find it easier if you just work in Millimetres, rather than swapping between mm and cm. I find that because I work in mm all the time in my work that conversion to centimetres requires extra thought, something that you don't need when talking to camera while casting and videoing. Just one less thing to worry about.
Just shows that when you turn your back, science breaks out!
Man I hate it when that happens ;-)
I thought that coarser sand allows gasses to escape between the gaps more than fine sand and makes metal flow more freely. Rougher surface finish though.
Correct on both points.
Good to hear metric but did you mean they were 50 cm long rather than 50mm?
:-D yes I did. I actually thought about that as the video was uploading. Oh well, most of us Americans won;t catch it :-/
I was also wondering since 50mm would be 5cm which would be about 2 inches (wild west conversion since 2.5cm to an inch)
Ah Walt it's actually 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm to the inch. Best to work in mm as cm is for measuring people and clothing.
Mark Fryer like I said "wild west conversions" an estimate seemed close enough for gaging if it was the wrong unit. Although I'm not as good at wild west conversions as This Old Tony who went from N⋅m to foot-pounds using McDonald's quarter pounders and smelly feet.
Hi there. I've enjoyed watching your videos and would like to see how you make your crucible tongues.
Your wish is my command ;-)
th-cam.com/video/Q-6z1-0KJHU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/d4TzOG7CFAs/w-d-xo.html
interesting and yes the vent helped lots thumbs up and shared
Woohoo thanks for the share boss, I don;t get a ton of those.
Hi I just recently started watching your channel, and I am enjoying it 'UUgghly. I watched your first review of Campbell's book and tried the link supplied. I got anything from 'timed out' to a '404'.Would you post it again?
I would love to, but apparently the company that I bought it from is out of business or doesn't sell it any more. I'm sorry. I'll adjust the description to remove the link.
I think the vented side went further and the non-vented side now spells out a bad word.
Now that would be a neat trick :-D
keep up your work! You Are Awesome!
Wow, Thanks!
Same flow they both completely filled is my guess.
I think the vented side filled and nonvented did not.
And you were obviously right, Thanks for commenting.
I always vent!
Vent side is my guess
You'd be right :-D
I'm going with the vented side. And ordering the book today..
It's a big one ;-)
Where can you get it and for how much?
I got it here, but the site has been down for about a week that I know of digitalbookfinder.com/products/12980?variant=6794768842794. It was only like $30
Mark Fryer I found the book a while back in a PDF form, from a 3rd party collage bookstore. The link is in the video description swdweeb did a few months back (early August maybe)... I assume they are still offering it at a discount price (they seem to always say sale ending)
I'll find and post the link here for you once I finish up some block diagram stuff I need to get out by midnight tonight. (Assuming swdweeb doesn't get to it first... yep he got to it first)
Fridays don't stink! Nice vid anyway. 🙂
Did someone tell you that Fridays stink?? Shame on them. ;-)
swdweeb Especially when the Friday in question is the Public Holiday the day before the AFL Footy Grand Final.
I am guessing right side since we are north of Equator if however we were in Australia I would guess left side. Will have to have VegOil Guy try same Experiment!
Actually bigstackd is who you want. VegOilGuy is north as well. Of course I could just switch the side the vent is on and do it again ;-)
I think the vented side did better, as the oily sand is very air tight...
That was a cool test. Took time on your part, but should be beneficial to your future casting...
YEah, it was nice to finally just know for sure what it does and doesn't do.
Cool test
It was wasn't it :-) Thanks
your sand seems a bit "squishy" - are you maybe adding a little too much oil?
Hey man. It's only squishy when it's loose in the box. Once I start to pack it, it firms right up. If you watch Martin, his sand is green sand and it looks squishy until he packs it. th-cam.com/video/Ssl95B8ESDM/w-d-xo.html
make a very interesting decoration
Ha! And here I was just going to melt it down again ;-)
no difference would be my guess.
... and I wouldn't have been surprised if you were right.
50mm? 50cm i think! Lol!
yeah yeah, If only I could disable comments for that particular mistake ;-)
swdweeb well if you really wanted you could make it a banned phrase... but I think that's for the whole channel and not for a specific video... and even then you're going to be playing whack a mole with it.
@@swdweeb well, you have the option of overdubbing in some editing programs. If you catch a mis speak mistake before you upload, you could narrate over the mistake. Do a correction instead of a beep (like for censorship). Does anyone else see your videos before you upload? Sometimes we have trouble noticing our own mistakes. Not a big deal unless someone chooses to make it one.
Yeah, generally no one else see the videos before they post. On rare occasion if I get them done soon enough (very rare) I share them with one or two people. There is some editing capability after it is uploaded but I don't know what I can do. with it. The thought of over-dubbing, re-rendering, and re uploading just seems like a lot of work for something that really isn't all that important. (I know I was off by a factor of ten but the point was that you can get longer flow tests in a spiral than a straight line allows.)
Post upload to TH-cam I think you can replace all the audio with music, or cut a scene out of the video. It's really limited. I've heard people on other channels say "reupload" but I've never seen an actual "reupload" option or tutorial. I would love to fix a dark video on my other channel, but I've not been able to successfully find how to do so now that it's posted to TH-cam.
Short sprue
I have a feeling that the vent made very little difference in your pour...
Looks like it made a good bit of difference!!! Silly me!! Great video my friend super informative!! I’m looking forward to the lessons to come!
Who would have thunk? ;-)
Thanks bud