AN Easy Low Cost Method Of Blackening Steel. Rust Protection.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 เม.ย. 2022
- In this video I show how I blacken my steel lathe replacement compound blocks using a simple method. This blackening makes the tool blocks look really good and also gives a good rust protective finish.
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Ive done a similar thing with used engine oil from my vintage harley, totally black oil full of superfine carbon from the combustion processes in the engine.
If you get the metal hot enough you even get a case hardening of the metal surface from carbon impregnation.
Cool vid! 👍🙂
When I was a student gas lighters were forbidden in the workshop. Everyone laughed at the rule until Robbo dropped some welding slag into his shirt pocket. The lighter went off like a firework and Robbo shit himself.
We all learned a lesson that day!!!!!!
Stavros
We did this at school in metalwork classes. We used dirty old oil from the teachers old Volkswagen . Looked a treat!!!
I developed my love of Engineering at school in Metalwork. We were lucky to have a superb teacher.
We had access to everything in the 80’s - lathes, mills, oxy acetylene, forge. It was incredible. Sadly none of this in in schools today. :-(
@@Qwerty1235945 I feel honored to have gone to school in the 1980s. None of this stuff exists anymore.
Hi Robert, Yes, it was totally different then. I'm pleased to have lived through that time as well. Regards Steve
@@Qwerty1235945 It is like this even here in the Nordics (specifically Finland). In the 80's we had all of this in use, but today there aren't metal tools at all. Basic woodworking is possible but is not allowed to use by the students (Aas we did in the 80's).
We used to call that a blacksmith finish. Seems all the old parts done that way didn't rust much if at all. Good stuff! A refresher is always in order.
I do the same thing with the exception that I use old used engine oil that I've saved (I keep using the same oil), and I swirl the part around in the oil completely submerged until it's cooled down continuing to expose the part to lower temp oil. I've seldom ever had to repeat the process on the same parts, and I've done all kinds of shapes and types of steel parts. Some hot rolled, some cold rolled, some 12L14, and some drill rod.
Used diesel engine oil works very efficiently. Fewer heat and immersion treatment cycles, very dark finish.
Looks live a very good method Steve... Thank you for showing us...
Works well Steve, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Looks great. Thanks for the tip.
If you don't have any mucky old engine oil you can use 'lamp black' to make your nice clean oil black and mucky. Works nicely.
wonderful , thank you so much Steve, cheers from the US, Paul
I remember when I used do this as an apprentice in 60s works well👍🇬🇧.
i love your channel :) peace from Greece!!
Thanks for watching! Regards Steve
In the blacksmith shop I keep a tin with a lump of beeswax and linseed oil mixed about 1:1. It sits on the back of the forge with a cheap bristle brush it. It blackens parts nicely in one or 2 applications. It does smoke and can ignite so I apply it outdoors.
Yeah, I have seen Black Bear forge finish off his iron work with a coat of beeswax , he claims the heat breaks down the wax into a crude form of varnish, good for looks and rust prevention.
possibly a good idea to avoid some synthetics
I assume this works in much the same way as seasoning a frying pan? The oil leaves a polymerized coating that will resist moisture ingress
I as well use old engine oil for this purpose with good success. Seldom, but sometimes, I am concerned with change in size sue to heating distortion: Only wanted to mention this fact as information.
Any idea how well this might work for stainless? I've got some small stainless archery weights I'd like to try and blacken
I knew this is good method, but it is nice to see online because it is so simple you wouldn't believe. I do this in my Ooni Pizza Oven. Just did a trailer hitch attachment in it. Fits barely.
have you tried this method with boiled linseed oil , do these need to be repeated after every rainy season or do they last for years?
I have the oil how do I make the fire and the part?
Year's ago I saw steel blackening done with wool, you got the steel hot and rubbed it with a bit of old jumper ( pure wool no oil ) burnt wool stuck to the steel
What gas torch was that you used? Was it LPG? I can’t find a torch to link up with my LPG gas bottle, where did you get that 1?
Cool video, greetings from Australia 🇦🇺
Yeah, but how long did you leave it in the oil?
I used real dirty waste diesel engine oil and had to only heat and dunk once for a really black finish
Cheaper than using good oil
Is that black due to oxidation or carbonization ?
You will get a far darker black finish if you use old used Diesel motor vehicle engine oil it has lots of suspended fine carbon particles.
In solution, they’re dissolved, very micro fine particulates, ready to bond to the hot metal!
@@tomconner5067 So you are that marvel of a person who can stop breathing in a city or next to a busy road. with all those diesel vehicles, I could go on about other pollution in the air but even I know that there is no person so blind than those who wont see. . Stot trying to be a smart Ass.
Linseed oil leaves better finish. You dont have to dip it i use cotton rag soaked with oil and i wipe it on a red hot part.Wear leather gloves thou and do quick moves.Sometimes rag catches on fire.But its not that dangerous .
Can you do that to stainless steel?
@@thebasswicker6294 Depends on chrome content,oil method relies on thin black oxide layer forming on surface.(rust is red iron oxide).There is like 30 types of stainless steel.
Good job Steve! Will this work on stainless steel as well?
Hi Ron I don't think it will. I only ever use the method on mild steel or bright mild steel. Regards Steve
Hope Graba Funbag hasn't watched this or you'll be on her list 😂. I use this method and must admit I like the smell of that burning oil, not sure about the neighbours, but I have to put up with their BBQs 😂.
Okay. I'll bite.
What's wrong with the smell of food cooking?
The people from other countries strictly cook outdoors unless company comes over.
Anyone know the chemistry behind this? Looks to be the same as seasoning a cast iron pan. The oil polymerizes and creates a film on the steel.
That’s exactly it. I would caution anyone considering this process for weather exposed parts to recognize that any chipping incurred during use will compromise the finish and provide a site for corrosion to take hold. Furthermore, as the surface has blued, you have a slightly less resistant surface. So in short, this is a great process for non-condensing and non-saline environments, such as indoors. Also that surface will have great slip properties so it would be fantastic for light duty parts that will be rubbing against metals but are unsuitable for lubricants. I think I heard him say it was for a slide of some sort.
Nice finish Steve, does it alter the hardness/temper of the part? Looks a little like the surface treatment on my start dial indicator set parts, I like it, cheers!
I only use the method on mild steel or bright mild steel so it won't affect the hardness. It would if it was toolsteel though especially if it has high carbon content. Regards Steve
Starret indicator parts.
What I do is prep the surface, then parkerize. Heating to such a degree I fear will warp parts.
Depends on a thickness and type of steel ofc . You can also make a bluing bath out of 64% distilled water and 3% KNO3 and 33% lye .You heat it up to 140C° and leave part in for 30 min.
@@zumbazumba1 what is KNO3?
@@wrstew1272 Saltpeter aka potassium nitrate.
Does this change the properties of the steel?
You definitely don't want to do this to high-carbon tool steels like 1095, O-1, W-2, spring steel, 52100, and others. it will change their temper and probably degrade their design properties. I'd only recommend this treatment for mild steel. Also, the smoother the steel the better this treatment looks. If it starts out smooth, polished, and really clean the finish looks great--much darker and less blotchy.
@@tiafolla You can do it as a tempering process .Also there is variant with a hot bath(140C° distilled water 64%) and a KNO3(3%) and Lye mix(33%) .You soak it for 30min.
Can the same process be done on a cast iron part ? 🤔
Hi Andrew. I haven't tried it on cast iron, but I reckon it would be ok. Cast iron saucepans are blackened using heat and oil.
I will see if I can find a piece and try it. If I do I will let you know for sure. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thank you Steve. Be very interesting to see how a little experiment works out. 👏👏
@@SteveJordan Just a quip: obviously you wouldn't use motor oil for blackening cast iron cookware 🙄
Useful process I've not used since my apprenticeship days - thanks for reminding me, Steve.
What is the resulting surface really? Soot giving You black fingers? Joking! But, ... how does the surface withstand bangs, scratchings?
You've surprised me so many times before so why not try it?
It's really good. I did it to my toolpost drill as well. It still has the black finish after a year now and it didn't get any rust on it throughout the winter months. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Keeping rust away is really nice. Using oil has the disadvantage of making the hands "dirty" every time I touch those things.
An anti rust method not making the hands dirty directly has a great advantage.
As motor oil is quite costly I held my breath when You pored up quite a volume of oil. One question Steve: Commercial motor oil contains additives. On some of the containers there's even a warning not to get skin contact.
What motor oil do You use?
@@Stefan_Boerjesson I use any engine oil. I bought it from a local recycle center. The black finish doesn't come off or make hands dirty. The heat and oil actually changes the metal surface colour.
@@SteveJordan Thanks for Your replies Steve!
I urge You to take a look at the different oils on the shelf. Pure oil is likely what we prefer, avoiding those mystery additives being more or less bad for humans. What kind does a recycle center provide? For what purpose is that oil made?
Thanks for the summing up, hands not getting dirty.
I have a propane/butane hand held torch giving 1925 degree Celsius that ought to be enough.
🙂👍☕
Great work but it’s actually way better to use engine oil that has Been used
Hi Jason Yes I normally use that, but didn't have any on this occasion. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan did you ever bother upgrading the headstock bearings with angular contact bearings?
Hi Jason yes I did that, but I didn't show it on video.
@@SteveJordan could you please provide a link for the bearings
I will see if I can find them. I have it written down somewhere.
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Not too good for tempered parts like springs, etc
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Way too close with the torch
@@FirstLast-ye8nf Then people would make mistakes like that fella did.
I make mini cannons and do the same treatment to the barrels, with one exception I use old engine oil. The stuff is too expensive to use new!
I normally use old engine oil but didn't have any when I did this video. I sometimes buy half empty cans of new oil from my local recycle center at very low cost. The canons must be a good product to make! Regards Steve