Eric I remember a time way back in the day when they use to spec speakers and amplifiers with Peak power and then something happened to make them use RMS only and now I've realized over the last few years I've been seeing things specting peek again
Damn! I remember having to put in Alpine stereo Amp and speakers in whatever I drove back before I got married and had kids. My F150 I do have Alpine speakers in it with the stock stereo. I dont drive much anymore. 5 miles to work and back im good with what it. 80s Metal Forever!!!! Thanks Eric
I been thinking about getting some wood to make a Bass box to use for my Bass guitar just have to figure out everything like how to do the input and how to get it to work when I was younger I collected speakers and would have 8 or so on one old unit it would jam lol I just wired them together and stuck in the input!!
Tiny magnet structure for a “subwoofer”. I prefer aluminum or rigid composite cones in bloated looking stiff surrounds with ridiculous motors driving them. Heavy magnets and big ole coils. Peaches, her stuff pushes the Xmax and the heartbeat on Pink Floyd’s Speak to Me.
hey Eric , i have the pioneer TS-A300B want to take that subwoofer out and put a better one in like you are in this video ! =) can i ask im finding it hard to find out what subwoofers i can actually put in this pioneer box - is their a way to know if a subwoofer will sound okey in this box , also can i ask is this CT sounds 12D4 sound better now that your using it than the original pioneer sub, thanks a lot man
The CT Sounds 12D4 worked out really good in the Pioneer enclosure. The only real complaint I have is the front that the sub mounts to is kind of thin. The CT subwoofer should be in a little deeper of an enclosure, but will work in the Pioneer enclosure. Depending on the type of music you like you might be missing some low frequencies. Adding a little poly fill will make the enclosure trick the sub that it is in a larger box. I picked up a SKAR Audio single 12inch ported enclosure that is 2.00 cubic feet and the CT sub does very well in it than the Pioneer enclosure did. The Pioneer wasn't bad, but at louder volumes it would distort and over extend itself.
@@ericctheartofnoise8613 ohk thank you for explaining that to me!! i would love to get the CT Sub, but here in Australia they don't really have them available anywhere, i am a bass junky lol =D . well i cant find any lol ! can i ask how many cubic feet is the pioneer box, i tried finding it on google for an hour but was unsuccessful ? i love bass since i was a kid , thanks bro
Here is a site for getting the cubic feet of an enclosure. www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp I want to say that the Pioneer box is a little less than 1 cubic foot. Any time man.
Awesome video! Have been looking at this one just because it is pretty cheap and doesnt look like shit. But no, clearly not a sub but should be pretty good as a 12 inch fun party speaker . But then it's too expensive.
That absolutely is a subwoofer. It's not high performance, and certainly not built for SPL but rather SQ. If you buy it loose its very affordable so it's not fair to expect too much from it.
I'm not looking for SPL's, but at higher volumes the quality is not there. I'm not into Bass music as much as I was when I was younger, but This driver would heat up if you just push it a bit more than yelling volume. The other drivers I have see from Pioneer that look close to this one look like they are a subwoofer then just looking like a woofer. No coil venting tells me that the driver is not able to do much without heating up.
I'm going to do a video for you. It will also be good content to add to my channel. You and I have talked audio before, and like myself, I know you like to roll with good sound. There's a LOT of misconception and advertising when it comes to audio (as you know) be car audio, home, guitar, etc... Talk soon! Hope it goes well!
I took some measurements of the Pioneer enclosure since I had the woofer out of it. Then I compared the measurements with the recommended size that CT Sounds wants for their sub. The Pioneer enclosure is too small and the port is tuned to high. I could put Polly fill in the enclosure, but that's not going to fix the port. When the CT sub hits the resident frequency of the Pioneer enclosure man is it loud. I got the plans to make an enclosure from CT Sounds, but I can't find any MDF to make it with. I seen the price of birch plywood.. Too expensive. I ordered an enclosure that's is closet to what CT Sounds wants for this sub. 2.00cf, port tuned to 32hz
You're looking at an engineered product. The box AND woofer are engineered together. High excursion for example is pointless if you know the box the driver will always be used in. Same with suspension, it (combined with cone surround compliance, motor strength, cone mass and box design) are all part of the picture. You have strong opinions but don't seem to know even this... You're complaining about stuff that's either not accurate, or makes zero sense. Things like the terminals being unlike the non boxed woofer. There's NO reason to put fancy terminals on a preboxed woofer. No one will likely ever see it vs an unboxed woofer where people will hold the driver in their hands and think a rubber boot makes any difference. You're also saying it got hot at 500wrms. You have NO idea what sort of power the sub was getting unless you ran a scope to ensure you didn't clip and also some sort of meter to actually measure power. It could even come down to a small EQ adjustment one day or even a particularly heavy track with tones around impedance minima drawing more power on a given day. I can basically bet you soft clipped this thing on a hot day and cooked it. Pioneer are one of the oldest and largest speaker driver makers on the planet, they know how power ratings work. Yes it's engineered for performance as well as low cost but it does work. $10 you cooked it because you expected more out of it based on "watts" alone.
Ported boxes don't need a high excursion subwoofer either. When they are used at their recommended tuning frequency, the port takes over producing air movement, not the face of the cone.
Eric I remember a time way back in the day when they use to spec speakers and amplifiers with Peak power and then something happened to make them use RMS only and now I've realized over the last few years I've been seeing things specting peek again
Damn! I remember having to put in Alpine stereo Amp and speakers in whatever I drove back before I got married and had kids. My F150 I do have Alpine speakers in it with the stock stereo. I dont drive much anymore. 5 miles to work and back im good with what it. 80s Metal Forever!!!!
Thanks Eric
Great information Eric
Just Don't let Terry 3g's Do!
I been thinking about getting some wood to make a Bass box to use for my Bass guitar just have to figure out everything like how to do the input and how to get it to work when I was younger I collected speakers and would have 8 or so on one old unit it would jam lol I just wired them together and stuck in the input!!
I used to be into pioneer pretty deep but that was a lot of years ago, I know little to nothing about their equipment now.
A lot of difference in the build quality no doubt!
Tiny magnet structure for a “subwoofer”. I prefer aluminum or rigid composite cones in bloated looking stiff surrounds with ridiculous motors driving them. Heavy magnets and big ole coils.
Peaches, her stuff pushes the Xmax and the heartbeat on Pink Floyd’s Speak to Me.
A vedere il pioneer sembra un doppia bobina 4+4 ohm… posso configurarlo in serie per avere 8 ohm?
English please.
Wow so great information my friend
hey Eric , i have the pioneer TS-A300B want to take that subwoofer out and put a better one in like you are in this video ! =) can i ask im finding it hard to find out what subwoofers i can actually put in this pioneer box - is their a way to know if a subwoofer will sound okey in this box , also can i ask is this CT sounds 12D4 sound better now that your using it than the original pioneer sub, thanks a lot man
The CT Sounds 12D4 worked out really good in the Pioneer enclosure. The only real complaint I have is the front that the sub mounts to is kind of thin. The CT subwoofer should be in a little deeper of an enclosure, but will work in the Pioneer enclosure. Depending on the type of music you like you might be missing some low frequencies. Adding a little poly fill will make the enclosure trick the sub that it is in a larger box. I picked up a SKAR Audio single 12inch ported enclosure that is 2.00 cubic feet and the CT sub does very well in it than the Pioneer enclosure did. The Pioneer wasn't bad, but at louder volumes it would distort and over extend itself.
@@ericctheartofnoise8613 ohk thank you for explaining that to me!! i would love to get the CT Sub, but here in Australia they don't really have them available anywhere, i am a bass junky lol =D . well i cant find any lol ! can i ask how many cubic feet is the pioneer box, i tried finding it on google for an hour but was unsuccessful ? i love bass since i was a kid , thanks bro
Here is a site for getting the cubic feet of an enclosure. www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp
I want to say that the Pioneer box is a little less than 1 cubic foot. Any time man.
Awesome video! Have been looking at this one just because it is pretty cheap and doesnt look like shit. But no, clearly not a sub but should be pretty good as a 12 inch fun party speaker . But then it's too expensive.
Hey Eric!
Great vid and info on subwoofers👍
Remain positive and vigilant!
That absolutely is a subwoofer. It's not high performance, and certainly not built for SPL but rather SQ. If you buy it loose its very affordable so it's not fair to expect too much from it.
I'm not looking for SPL's, but at higher volumes the quality is not there. I'm not into Bass music as much as I was when I was younger, but This driver would heat up if you just push it a bit more than yelling volume. The other drivers I have see from Pioneer that look close to this one look like they are a subwoofer then just looking like a woofer. No coil venting tells me that the driver is not able to do much without heating up.
@@ericctheartofnoise8613 yes but that's because it's a budget sub, it's still a sub
I'm going to do a video for you. It will also be good content to add to my channel. You and I have talked audio before, and like myself, I know you like to roll with good sound. There's a LOT of misconception and advertising when it comes to audio (as you know) be car audio, home, guitar, etc...
Talk soon! Hope it goes well!
I took some measurements of the Pioneer enclosure since I had the woofer out of it. Then I compared the measurements with the recommended size that CT Sounds wants for their sub. The Pioneer enclosure is too small and the port is tuned to high. I could put Polly fill in the enclosure, but that's not going to fix the port. When the CT sub hits the resident frequency of the Pioneer enclosure man is it loud. I got the plans to make an enclosure from CT Sounds, but I can't find any MDF to make it with. I seen the price of birch plywood.. Too expensive. I ordered an enclosure that's is closet to what CT Sounds wants for this sub. 2.00cf, port tuned to 32hz
woofer vs sub woofer.....i bet some so call bass head dont know diffference..aka house speaker....hear the bass vs feel the bass
pioneer its cloen
You're looking at an engineered product. The box AND woofer are engineered together. High excursion for example is pointless if you know the box the driver will always be used in. Same with suspension, it (combined with cone surround compliance, motor strength, cone mass and box design) are all part of the picture. You have strong opinions but don't seem to know even this...
You're complaining about stuff that's either not accurate, or makes zero sense. Things like the terminals being unlike the non boxed woofer. There's NO reason to put fancy terminals on a preboxed woofer. No one will likely ever see it vs an unboxed woofer where people will hold the driver in their hands and think a rubber boot makes any difference.
You're also saying it got hot at 500wrms. You have NO idea what sort of power the sub was getting unless you ran a scope to ensure you didn't clip and also some sort of meter to actually measure power. It could even come down to a small EQ adjustment one day or even a particularly heavy track with tones around impedance minima drawing more power on a given day.
I can basically bet you soft clipped this thing on a hot day and cooked it. Pioneer are one of the oldest and largest speaker driver makers on the planet, they know how power ratings work.
Yes it's engineered for performance as well as low cost but it does work.
$10 you cooked it because you expected more out of it based on "watts" alone.
Ported boxes don't need a high excursion subwoofer either. When they are used at their recommended tuning frequency, the port takes over producing air movement, not the face of the cone.