CR-10 Max review - Is bigger better?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
- The CR-10 Max lives up to its name, it's enormous! Following on from my unboxing and initial impressions video, I've finally finished my review after some toil. Some of my prints are amazing, but some of my problems shouldn't have happened on a 3D printer of this expense.
You shouldn't buy this printer because:
- The quality control is hit and miss
- Slicing profiles aren't provided
- It takes up a heap of room
- It uses a lot of filament
- It's not cheap
You should buy this printer because:
- You are experienced and happy to fix the niggling problems
- You are experienced and can tune your slicing profile
- It has high quality components that will perform well when the little things are fixed
- You want to print large, awesome things that won't fit on other printers
- You want a polished, modern 3D printer compared to a CR-10 S5
Which category do you fit in?
This printer is mechanically very similar to the CR-10S Pro. I didn't test filaments other than PLA because I figured the performance would be the same as that printer (review linked below).
This printer provide free of charge by Creality for the purpose of making this review. All opinions expressed are my own.
Helmet by Markom3D: • 3D Printed Scifi Helme...
Purchase the CR-10 Max from these links:
Creality official store: www.creality3dofficial.com/pr...
Amazon: amzn.to/2n8MPC0
Tiny Machines: bit.ly/2uyWoOT
CR-10 Max first impressions: • Creality CR-10 Max fir...
CR-10S Pro review: • Creality CR-10S Pro - ...
CR-10S Pro fixes: • 7 fixes for the CR-10S...
CR-10S Pro firmware upgrade guide: • How to update CR-10S P...
My Simplify3D 0.8mm nozzle fff file: gum.co/lRyYG
Models featured in this video:
Glider: www.thingiverse.com/thing:90134
3D benchy: www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Bowl: www.thingiverse.com/thing:223...
T Rex skull: www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335
Wolverine claws: www.thingiverse.com/thing:28270
Markom3D helmet: www.thingiverse.com/thing:388...
Flip out pirate sword: www.thingiverse.com/thing:359...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #cr-10max #review
This is what 3D printing ACTUALLY looks like sometimes. Thank you for the honest review.
I think Creality just need to slow down a little and work on improving QC & refining their printers taking a little longer between iterations. They're releasing printers too fast with barely any improvements to each.
A very fair point.
I'm with you there.
My ender 3 has been amazing but it also pays to take your time building them and checking every screw.
I agree. If they could just go the extra 5% in the QC process, their larger printers could double in value.
I agree. I've got an ender 3 and it has worked almost flawlessly out of the box.
I'm having a blast with my CR-6 SE so far - so far needed zero mods or alterations except a slight tightening of one of the wheels which is a standard check when building. The CR-6 shows what they can do - hopefully they'll do the same for their other models.
Seriously one of the best technical 3DP YT channels in the entire community. Keep up the excellent work.
Thanks Ron, very kind.
Totally agree with you.
@@TeachingTech which printer would you really recommend. I am a cabinet maker and own a 10ft CNC machine and would like to get into printing.
I have no experience with printing so far but don't want to buy something cheap. Which brand would you recommend.
Thank you for taking time
That is brilliant - thank you for your support - I can’t wait for the bugs for this printer to be ironed out as I might have to get one.
Coming back to this one 3 years later it's funny to see how much improvements have been made in the 3D printing world. Now a similar sized printer costs half as much and has significant improvements like the Elegoo Neptune Max.
Timely video, really helping me cut down to what I should buy for my first 3d printer. Going to be a Prusa family to start off. But will keep an eye out for a large format printer to buy 2nd and then Frankenstein it with kick ass parts.
I bought the max a few months back. I had several of these issues with many headaches from the bowden coupler letting go of the tube. And the spares provided letting go as well. But after some work and patience its now my favorite 3d printer
I'm hoping to order my ender 3 in the next week or so and will be all over your channel. I really like how you explain things. Thank you for your service
I became a Patron because of how heavily I leaned on this channel for my Ender 3
dont ... look at ender 5 i just picked up 3 for £160 each.. better than any ender 3 imo
Great video. Personally I just love the CR10 Max, have been using this machine for a couple of years now, no serious problems. Really enjoy printing full scale models, so this machine completly changed how I work. Thanks for sharing :)
Looking at the clicking extruder around 5:32, there was enough back pressure at the nozzle that the filament spring back was reversing the stepper motor. So nice thing is the bondtech gears were working well... because it wasn't slipping, the compression was actually back driving the stepper motor. Increasing Vref will help you push harder, but at the end of the day I think the limiting factor is not enough melt capacity for the volumetric output you were trying to generate. Two solutions: 1.) Increase the temperature so you can get more Delta-T on the filament. 2.) A better over all solution is a different hot end with improved melting capacity so you don't have to run artificially high temperatures to minimize back pressure. Great video as usual.
Thanks for the great post. I went for the temperature increase option but agree something like a volcano style hot end would be better.
@@TeachingTech A super volcano would be more apt. Some lost Z would be easily offset by 200g+/hour. Some giant 1.4mm nozzle prints.
Great review! I just recently came into the 3d printing hobby with the expectation that repairs and tweaks were going to be a constant thing. I've only had my Ender 3 for two months and already had to replace a bad wire, and make a few other tweaks but the quality prints I am getting for under 300 bucks Canadian, amazing!
You are an excellent reviewer. Thanks for doing this!
a great video, thanks man. I have issues with this printer but it has potential so i'm tackling each problem as it occurs. you have outlined some things I havent found yet and the 0.8mm nozzle settings are so helpful. Thank you for sharing
I'm Looking forward to see what mods people come up with for this - if you want perfect, you will pay a lot more. Thanks again Michael !
Huge build volume is great, but TBH, I'd expect a $1000 FDM printer to need less tweaking to get usable prints.
@Barry Allen This is confusing. The comment you replied to asserts the printer is relatively expensive, you say it's cheap. TT seems to think it's overpriced, as well. You seem to be out of step here.
@Barry Allen I have a job. I don't just get to troll TH-cam pretending skill and knowledge I don't have, attacking legit comments because I'm insecure and have a tiny little printer.
@Barry Allen silly troll. been printing for years. don't need your trollish advice or opinions. learn to read. legit comments, not knowledge. what are you, twelve?
yes technically its no different than a smaller unit so build quality should be high for 1000 dollars.
@@magnetmannenbannanen I'd say in retrospect that slinging a thousand bucks to make PLA prints of anything is as insane as Me. 3D printing isn't really worthwhile unless you are printing houses.
if Creality made cars, they'd all be lemons
why this is accepted by the wonderful 3DP community because makers like to tinker is beyond me
there must be a 3DP that works right out of the box without any modifications, adjustments or fixes
thanks for the review, Michael, you saved me tons of time, cash and headaches
I'm looking forward to the community stepping up for this printer as with the cr-10 and ender ranges. I bought this printer and have endured part of the steep learning curve to the point where I have moderatley good prints at 0.4mm, havnt even bothered with 0.8mm. I have had to replace the bltouch and my cap tube has been shortened after snapping and popping out a few times. Mods ive done include calibrating e-steps for all axis and extruder, updated firmware(probably not with thermal protection), anti-backlash screws on z axis (I need to revisit this mod but it is essential) and inserting a stick into the cable tube to the extruder so it doesnt rub on the bed. The bed needs constant re-leveling and gets warped very quick (I think glass is the way forward, layer shift is so likely in swaping material it would be better to get a 3KG roll). So what we really need for newbs like me is a comprehensive guide on both MODS and machine/Slicer settings to get the quality prints. Its a shame NEXITECH hasnt got more info on his tricks of the trade as he seems to have got very good prints at both 0.4mm and 0.8mm. I agree with earlier comments that creality are spamming out to many printers and not getting the ones they have up to spec. Its fine relying on the community for the cheaper models but the expensive ones arn't going to get the same kind of attention.
Rock solid review!!
Printing huge is so enticing.
Love your work!!🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀🤓
Another superb video thanx Michael
Thermal runaway has been an option in Marlin since a long time, incredible they didn't switch it on by default
Ever tried talking to a Chinese helpdesk? They may have an English speaker on the other end who's like sales support or something but the workforce are generally Chinese and don't understand them. Besides by the time you have finished getting your message across you will have spent more than buying a homegrown 3D printer.
Great video! And funny enough still very true for the Creality Bigger printers. I just received my CR10S5 two months ago and have had nothing but trouble with it. It came with a lot of these features already. And Kudos to Creality for that but the nozzle continues to get clogged, Dual Z Axis motors weren't in sync and bar wasn't parallel with the bed, tiny little thumb wheels for leveling the impossible bed, the glass bed isn't completely flat and heating this massive 500mm by 500mm bed takes almost 10 minutes and is just about impossible to keep prints from pulling away. I'm definitely going to be using a lot of your recommendations, even though mine isn't the Pro Max. Thanks for everything you do for the community!
Great review Michael. On the surface it looks to be a decent printer, clearly it still has issues and it's far too expensive to gamble. Although, to be fair, my Borg definitely cost a lot more with all the extras it has :-)
I WANT THAT DINO SKULL... awesome video
Great review! Thank you!
BIG printer!
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Great video happy seeing this before considering to purchase this printer
Mike thanks for the great videos!!! Please take a look at the Chiron. Similar quality as the Cr-10 Max at half the cost.
Brilliant review
Great review!
Hey @TeachingTech, thanks for the video. Do you think this printer has been improved since you made the video? Thinking of buying it.
Great review, abit too pricey for me, but it's nice to see creality using some quality components
I use my CR10S5 for cosplay pieces and printing multiple pieces in one go, and it has been nothing but a dream. Crazily enough, its bed was less warped than my ender 3's was so I went without ABL for a while. Its print quality is on par with the Ender 3's as well.
Personally, I think the Ender 3 and CR10S (4 or5 if you want large volume) are the way to go over the CR 10s Pro line. I prefer reliability over a touch screen or silent stepper motors.
Thank you for naming out the colour on your printed parts. I would be grateful if you can tell us in all your coming videos.
This is definitely something I can introduce to the channel, thanks for the suggestion.
Great video! I was wondering if you were going to review the tevo tarántula pro against the creality ended 3/3 pro
I love your videos and your very helpful!
I looked at this printer and got a Chiron instead. I am very happy with it. its a little smaller but then I picked 2 up so far for about $400 each
man i wish you >100k subs soon
great professionally made videos
My CR10S5 was great out if the box and upgrades are very easy to do. Adding a BL touch can be done in a day but honestly the bed came flat enough that I haven't once longed for the feature. Adding struts is not difficult at all and if you don't mind a click dial instead of a touchscreen they're great machines.
I'm almost tempted to do a build like this just to see how cheaply it can be done.
@@TeachingTech I actually got my CR10S5 (I call it half bootleg because some parts are OEM creality parts) for around $500 with shipping and everything on eBay. I'd love to see you pimp out a cheap printer!
I have this printer im happy with the prints so far. Im having bed leveling issues where i set up bed hieght than after it auto levels the hieght is off and it different hieght every time within 1-2mm off. I usually have to adjust after print starts. Thanks for the videos very helpful.
Maybe you should try with a thread locking compund so that the screws cannot move.
A great review like always Micheal.
Nice to see someone using S3D for a change.great video as always michael👍
At some stage I might make the "is S3D worth it?" video, although I expect that to be contentious and I'm not seeking drama.
@@TeachingTech This will likely results in fight as people are weirdly patriotic of their slicers
@@TeachingTech I've been trying to convert to Cura for a while and while I like their feature set, I could never get as good results as with S3D. The latest version, where they included the Creawesome mod (which I never liked), really screwed up my profiles and that was it for me. Then I decided to try Ideamaker, and whoa! Perfect prints by just transferring my settings from S3D. The settings are very similar to S3D, so much so that I wonder if S3D and Ideamaker are based on the same code (some of the messages are identical).
I don't mind paying for software or upgrades, and compared to many other professional software packages, $150 isn't much. My problem with S3D is the lack of upgrades (I don't consider the last few versions upgrades). I would love to see a review of some slicers on your channel for those looking for an alternative to S3D.
@@vojtator I use S3D, and I paid full price for it. I'm pretty happy with it. Was it worth the $ ? I don't think so at all.
Michael is NO beginner 💝💝💝
I've just ordered a CR-10 Max. My CR-10 has been well hammered with pretty much day and night use for the last two years. If I get the same results as with my CR-10 then I'll be happy. I just need bigger build volume for prototyping bigger parts, hence why I bought the Max.
Does it work for prototyping, or do you have the same issues where it is not worth the time? It looks like it is a great printer with assembly issues.
@@jenspetersen5865 the Max works OK. Print quality is pretty good with PLA. Have to baby it a bit with PETG but it works.
My CR-10 now has a Trianglelabs direct drive extruder with all metal hotend and is great. I prefer it to the Max. Been printing 24/7 for last 5 weeks and hasn't missed a beat. Whereas I've had the Max apart a couple of times in the same time frame to clear jams.
@@TYGAMatt Thank you for the answer! I have two CR10S that I don't have time to figure out how to fix (drive boards), but I need the build volume of the Max for a prototyping. I have had loads of problems with the CR10S, whereas my Ender 3 Pro has been great.
Is it the hotend that is the issue on the 10 Max, or are there things mechanically that play a role. From the outside it seems like aside from inertia, everything else would be better on the Max, but appear not to be.
@@jenspetersen5865 if printing PLA its fine and will print happily all day. Also printed a fair bit of ABS on it and that's fine as long as its not a particularly big or tall part that's liable to split or warp.
Haven't really printed any TPU with it so can't comment on that.
PETG is OK as long as I print slow so that I can use the lower end of the temp range of the filament. Trying to print PETG at 60mm/s and 0.25mm layer height like on my CR10 with DDE is impossible. It just grinds the filament and jams.
As for speed with PLA, you can crank it up to around 70mm/s and it copes. I use a 7mm/s jerk and 500mm/s/s acceleration and get acceptable results for what I need. It doesn't rattle around as long as its sitting on a sturdy bench.
I use my CR-10 for playing with firmware settings and general fiddling.... The max I just leave alone as much as I can and just print.
Oh, one thing is the factory build plate. The thing warps like crazy. I finally got a mirror cut a couple of weeks ago and it's way better.
With the stock build plate you'd see the Z axis working overtime on the first few layers levelling things out, but no longer the case with the mirror.
And finally. Make sure that the X gantry it trued up. It makes a big difference.
Beast of a 3D printer!
Thanks for the video.
Yea I'm running into a few little things to i ran a few cable management prints and I needed to beat it off the build plate with damn near with a hammer when the prints finished ....OVER KILL
Really wanted this printer to be worth a buy as a upgrade from my ender 3.
I had all these issues on my S4 and took time fixing al these issues in the first 2 weeks.
My friends with S5 did the same 'needs'.
2 years later my S4 has been working flawlessly without any issues to complain about.
So, yes, it's not a perfect 'improvement', but any pro user/engineer can see these issues coming and easily fix them.
'Large' brings those problems you discuss.
This video was really helpful for me.
I do think the MAX is too big.
Like comments from others below, Creality should focus on fewer models and higher quality/reliability [like Apple has :-)]
Price of the MAX is now £540.
But the size and straight transplant of CR-10 300 dimensions and engineering is not good business IMO.
Allow another 25% budget and 2 weeks+- to make this thing work well.
Thanks for the review, it helped me decide against the MAX as being too Big and underdeveloped.
ordering one for work, hope I get a good one
Your videos are so good.
HI, excellent work like allways. Can you tell me, where I can download fw with a heat prot.? On my Cr-10 Max the bigest problem is low real temp on nozzle. I think this is about 20 degC minus value on display. So I need about 240-250 degC for PLA and materials like a CPE or PETG with higher real temp are for me unprintable. I think that your problem with a low layer adhesion on big printed green can maybe was too "cold" too? And - dir you met a problem with a homing in X from maximum Z value?
With working Thermal Protection....OMG Creality turn it on at the start!!! I had to use different firmware for my CR10S Pro as well to make sure it was turned on. Creality is like only a half step above ANET, least there is hardware for the termal protection.
Thanks a lot for the review. Is there another brand with better QC producing similar size printers around the same price?
love your vids there epic tech :)
The world needs the Prusa XL already... Getting so sick of tinkering with my CR-10 just to get a few prints done
Hi
Just watched your video about the cr10 max it was great video. Can I ask have changed the nozzle yet if so we're did you buy them from please as I'll looking for a 0.6mm nozzle
Thanks
I dont know how you can leave it for that long, but wow what a great size if it done a little better!!
Thank you. Is Creality still providing support for the firmware for the 10max esp the thermal runaway?
Very informative. I just got my new max with built in BlTouch, still struggling to get printing on the bed. After self calibration the printer starts printing at 3 to 4mm above the bed. How can I fix this? I got your 0.8 mm FFF but the problem remains the same
Cable chains like Igus sells would be a very neat and effective solution for those drooping extruder cables. Seriously it should come standard with that kind of stuff, any serious linear motion machine does.
Nice vid!
I have the CR-10S Pro, have some issues worked through them, dealing with Creality customer service I would rate it poor at best. I think what sells creality is the size of what you can build, the max to print ABS you would have to build a condo around it. Poor quality control. Thanks for your video.👍
I have the cr 10 s5 and i have as i used an ather filament a problem with underextrusion but i can fix this and also is is a good printer. And he prints good for smal and big objekts but a closed build room have many advantages. For print abs or be like asa.
Is there any other printer around this price with a similar build volume but less required tweaking that you'd recommend? I don't expect it to be cheaper but perhaps within a few hundred.
I just finished the frame for my 3d printer build. Its same size of this and im into it $25 so far. Look up the piper2 3d printer. You make the frame out of conduit and 3d pri ted parts haha
This video is a year old already. Have there been any improvements on the max printer. I was thinking of buying one to print RC model planes. How much does it actually cost. Did you do a cost analysis?
a thing you really need, octoprint with TheSpaghettiDetective
automatically pauses prints when it fails. its in beta now, so still free. I recommend you test it, maybe even make a video about it if you want.
I briefly covered this in a previous video and am planning to do a full video as you suggest.
Never mind. Found your update here 😁
he is like Linus when it come to reviewing 3D printer, really thorough, and not just give you his own suggestion but gives you options whether its good for you or not
imho it looks like the final product isnt to standard with the large jobs it was set out for. Would you recommend the cr-10 s5 for someone wanting to mainly use abs to create custom helmets?
Im considering purchasing a 3d printer. Im very new to it all. Im wanting to purchase a large build rig eventually but need to get some recommendations to get started and become familiar with all of it before committing to a more complicated system. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi Michael, these videos on the Cr-10 Max have been great, as I've just purchased one as my introduction to 3D printing. I'm making a KITT replica of sorts from Knight Rider but decided to try and upgrade the 80s style dash to something a bit more sleek and modern, so I've put a 24" touch screen and PC in to up the tech a bit.
I chose this printer because of the large bed and was looking to mainly print fairly large flat piece for the dash. Would you have a list of suggested mods/upgrades I should look at to be able to print large panels in ABS?
Is there a particular hot end and extruder that does everything, or is it more a situation of change out parts for particular builds. I've already invested in this unit, so I'd like to try and have it able to print any material I like with minimal changeover of hardware, if possible.
Any suggestions on upgrades would be greatly appreciated :)
Great review as always. Do you think there would be any merit to using 3mm ( 2.85) filament with such a large nozzle ??
I've never owned a printer that takes the bigger filament so I'm afraid I'm not qualified to say.
What firmware is best for the CR10s v5 Creality Firmware or Marlin can’t get mine to work right with either so I’m buying a new motherboard with the CR10s v5 already loaded for $5 more see if that works if not it’s up for sale to buy a better one!!Thank You for all your videos they help me a lot!!
What would be your suggestion towards buying a big size printer... Since I am a beginner.... Great video.... Respect from India
I know the video is old, but I have a question about the original table - what type of coating is it?
Hi having problems with my cr10-max wont ready any sd card even with small file names ? has the reader failed ? was working fine
0.8mm nozzle on cheap pla on stock Ender-3, I find it maxed out on 0.6 layer height and 40mm/s print speed with cura and much higher temp than specified 210c maximum, 220 in fact, any lower and it will start clicking. I'm afraid something like E3D Volcano might be of consideration for larger volume print
Agreed.
The issue with the layer seperation on your vase if probably due to the plastic not heating up enough. With a nozzle that big on a heatblock that size, it may simply not have the time to get up to temp if the speed isn't turned down.
Seth Krumm Agree... need to heat up a bit more... it is too much volume to pass quicly for the heatblock in a higher speed (for that nozzle size). Need to balance it... no v-ref changes needed.
Agreed guys, hence the slicing change with slower speed and more temp. The vrefs were still shipped below their specs though.
Teaching Tech Ok about v-ref. Marcus, keep in mind that you can go until 235 for PLA... expecially when you print with higher layers and wider nozzles.
In Ultimaker community we make a calcularion about the volume to use a proper balnce beetwin speed, nozzle width and layer high... multiplicate all of those and you get the volume for m^3. Try to stay at 3-5mm^3/s for stunning quality and 5-8 for faster prints... more than that and you can get underextrusion (at least in UM2 printers). Cheers and keep up this awesome work!
with Bondtech extruders you can go up to 11mm^3/s
Nice review and honest like always. Creality needs to step up. Any interest in reviewing the ender 5 plus?
I wouldn't mind but they've only mentioned the CR-10 V2 to me.
@@TeachingTech maybe they are first solving all the current issues before they want you to review it XD
Today I saw BCN3D Epsilon and was wondering how the CR Max hold up against it.
Im looking for a printer to do interior elements of around 1x1 m in size, it's totally amateurish but I am looking to limit the number of parts so am looking for a good 250/250 or 350/350 bed and rather the larger than the smaller. Any recommendations?
Ender 3 with and ender extender kit
So it came with loose screws where you was not supposed to check? sounds like a flaw in the production quality , i guess they dont have a check for that. maybe they should use lock tite?
How did you make your rgb logo in the back? Looks dope and I want one
That's really disappointing. This was one of the ones I was most hoping to get. I'm just hoping the Ender 5 Plus or the Vivedino Trex/raptor is worth the money cuz I need a large one for cosplay.
Are there any comparable printers for large build volume you'd recommend?
What software did you use to extend the portions on the helmet stl please
Do you have a link to the updated firmware for the thermal runaway?
Yes you have to check each bolt on the cr-10s. The main reason for returns with them. Seems to me they loose half the sales from returns for this exact reason. & this is why you can go on ebay and have a supplier with 10-20 of these going half price.
For the amount of money and time you have to spend fixing Creality printers to overcome QC problems and bring up reliability and print quality, plus initial printer cost, does it become feasible to simply build your own printer at some point? How hard can it be?
Is this the 2020 version? Thinking to grab one but this review is cause for hesitation. Not many other options for this bed size.
do you still have the cr10 max? I bought one based on this video and I never finished assembling it. I was thinking about doing a linear rail setup and basically using the entire unit as nothing more than a frame to do large format prints.
What would you recommend? Love the content!
Hi having trouble with the cr10 max its got the z height below the table and does the height with the probe then trys to drive the nozzel into the table on the last movement, is there a way to set this back to the right height or a total reset ? thanks David
Hi.
Thanks for this video. After watching your rewiev I went out to buy a CR10 Max and I am really glad for it.
But sometimes I have a little Z axis skipping. And I wondered if it could be dou to VRef. What is the VRef preference from Creality to this CR10 Max?
Kind Regards.
Hi! I know it’s been a while since this comment but how’s the printer treating you so far? I’m thinking of getting one as my second larger printer
@@kj8168 Hi. It is treating me fine. Had to change the bed to glass. The stock bed could not handle the high temperatur and long time ABS print that I'm printing. Else quite good and I am pleased.
Using massive nozzles with large layer heights is more complicated than it seems. Your temperatures with a standard 0.4 nozzle/0.2 layer height just won't cut it. Your temps have to be recalibrated, extruder steps, extrusion multiplier, part cooling, etc. I think Creality gets away with it on their smaller printers, but its very obvious where they are pinching pennies, and their QC is definitely sub par. I don't regret my Ender 3 because it prints great and has taught me a lot, but that's only after a lot of time and investment getting the quality and reliability up. For a printer of this size and expense which is obviously NOT a beginner/entry level printer, it should not have all of the same issues.
im thinking of getting one. any update on this printer? were the problems fixed? if not what should i get? im a newbie btw
cr-10 MAX How can the temperature of the extruder nozzle be adjusted to 300℃, and whether the original setting can be rewritten by firmware, thank you
help!! have the new bondtech ddx and mosquito hotend with the 300c heat cartridge and thermistor, cant find any walkthroughs to update cr10 max or the mainboard information for marlin.
I have no idea what I'm doing! it's a hell of alot of work for a one off update.
im having problems with mine just tried doing benchy boat 10 times and its full of zits and blobs on the shell. tried cura and the bed jerks and stutters as its moving forward and back. please can you tell me your vref settings. thank you
Thermal runaway protection won't trigger on the one I have seen 😳😳🔥🔥🔥