ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2022
- In this video I take you along as we install the Gree Flexx 3 ton 20 SEER Heat Pump System - from beginning to end. #hvac #hvacguy #hvactechnician #hvactech #hvaclife #gree #fieldpiece #milwaukeetools
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You need to put a back up wrench on the valve when torquing it down it makes a huge difference
100% correct
How are the flare fittings holding up after a year?
Ive installed about 12 of these ranging from 2 to 5 ton Flexx systems,They make for an all day install with new lineset but man they run super quiet and are extremely efficient.The customers seem to love them.
same, iv only done a few so far, im not a fan of the valves at ah. I found that by using the bit of N2o from the coil i can do a p/t on the lines and then vacuum after i purge it out. First day it took us 6 hours but with alote of trial and error. Second was longer as it was a hanger replacing a 20 year old rheem shorty with a massive 58 in by 25 monster gree. It was fun! This one took 8 hours. Still need bad for a couples of guys..
@@m.vasquez2640 first off im doing my first one but that's not Nitro in the coil, its refrigerant from what I understand, maybe i missed that but pretty sure its 410A in the coil. you opena nd release IDF and OD all 410a..
@@m.vasquez2640 NOTES:
1. Indoor Unit has a factory R-410a
holding charge as shown on data
plate. Liquid and Gas service valves
on Indoor Unit must remain in the
closed position while leak testing
both refrigerant lines with dry nitrogen
Installing the first one these next couple of days. Glad to hear a lot of positive response to it
For a Gree Flexx 4-5 ton unit, is it ok to reuse existing 7/8 suction line? The existing system is R410. I plan to clean 7/8 line before reusing it. Any concerns?
Finally. Thanks for posting. Good job Curtis!!
Adding a dab of vacuum pump oil to the flaring cone helps the flare form, I also like to put a bit of nylog on the back of the flare. I'm always skeptical about the torque wrench (never feels tight enough) but that's what the manual says 🤷♂. Nice installation in a rough location, will be interesting to see how the system holds up
I agree I used to use a dab of vacuum pump oil on all my flare fittings on mini splits
Yes a bit of pump oil makes a good difference in getting tight joints and no twisting of the copper tubing, also needs to use a second wrench to back up the fitting. I also do not see a trap in the Evap Condensate line, not a good thing to not have.
I agree the torque spec for the suction does seem a bit on the loose side but the nylog and a good flare will get it,I sometimes have to do a flare twice but Ill get it
Lmao 19:30 when the helper just grabs something to seem helpful. We’ve all been there lol
I think we all have been there at some point, just like you and nylog is a must!
That was a great teaching video! I had never heard of Nylog before
Thanks
I was fixing to install 1 of these but now I'm having 2t thoughts thanks for making this video
The Navac battery flare tool works great my new boss always had leaks on his mini split I told him to buy 2 of them one for him and one for me and he hasn't had problems with flares ever since. They're a great knuckle saver 😆 🤣
You did a great job!
Great video, nice Equiment, we all been there time to time.. live and learn…
Good to see that you put one in your own house too so you can better understand the technology…I did the same with the Bosch system I have about 5 years ago…I’ve had to replace the inverter board once sines I’ve had it so far…
Great learning video/ new equipment a learning experience/ Good thing we have someone to Thank. Bub
What a pain. good job sticking with it!
NEW SUB 😊😊 MAKE YOUR VIDS LONGER you are awesome HVAC MASTER !!
When you do your flares use the new type off swivel flaring tool and if you hold the conection with a wrench at the above cap it holdes it tighter. If you have a leak don't reflare, just loosen and re tighten 5 lbs more.
Workes every time
Nice install
That great job!! Also next time try the Flaretite Seals. Is going to help to seal very good.
great job.
When I did mine and a friends in Florida I used the nylog like everyone has said it's a must. I used 2 wrenches when tightening the flares like others have said and I did it by feel I hardly ever use torque wrenches. I put the nylog on the threads, front of flare, back of flare and everywhere else to be safe. I was using the factory flares so that helped. One thing I did and I think you did was I added a surge protector and even put in a separate ground rod for it at the condenser unit. The reason I did that was their had been an electrical storm and the office had a mini-split system unit and the AC tech told me it had fried the computer board in the condenser unit. I thought if theirs a surge it will go toward the condenser unit and hopefully the surge protector will direct the surge straight to ground before reaching the condenser unit. The surge that damaged the office condenser unit board was slightly unusual since everyone has underground electric. Great Video thanks for sharing all you do!!!!
you shouldnt put nylog on threads, it changes the torque because it lubricates the threads and makes it very easy to over tighten.
@@justinrichard4190 nylog always changes torque no matter where applied it reduces torque needed.
Thanks for sharing. Just installed one in a new build. Haven't yet fired it up yet. I purchased the prefabricated flare ends from my distributor so that part was OK. Soon to find out if it holds a vacuum. I'm sure you have noticed that the air handlers are heavy. The heat strips and controls could be simplified. A little to busy in that area. Manufacturer could also incorporate knockouts for the electrical. Outdoor service panel could also be easier to remove. just my 2 cents.
Nice job.
FYI I use backup wrench on the outside valves when ever I am tighten the flare fittings to keep the metal plate from bending and also I have a flare tool with a clutch that works real good for me
Great video like normal. A few recommendations I would make are getting a orbital flare tool made for 410a systems. Yellow jacket makes a great one. Do not use your flare nut to pull the copper to the unit. Push and hold the copper flare against the unit and then tighten the nut. Pulling the copper with the nut can pull your flare out of shape. Lastly like others mentioned, use a back up wrench.
Hilmar brand orbital flare tool is the best I’ve ever used… never had a single bad flare from that tool if you Rheem the pipe good
I just subscribed I am really impressed with your honesty and how modest you are your videos take me back and just how we 30years ago we're pretty ancient with most of our work how times have changed but I have to say I would cut those damn flares out and brazed in new ones can you? Thanks
Nice work
Put the nylog on the back of the flare. Helps the nut slide for torquing.
I hate that yellow jacket flare tool. I used it for a short time and had some leaks with it. It’s now resting under the work bench in the back of the shop. I purchased a jb minisplit flaring tool and it’s awesome. That combined with nylog No more leaks.
Good job Curtis, you should next time use a backing wrench on the flared fittings, either channel locks or pipe wrench so the fittings don't bend the pipes or plate that holds it, good work regardlesss.
I was gonna say the same thing. I find it helpful. Love the videos Curtis
When it had its first weird problem you will have to call the engineers for help, do you gree, lol, nice install, hopefully your supplier keeps parts when you need them
Use your caps that covers your service valve stems for your second wrench counter force and a light coating of polyester oil. Set your torque values on the high end for each line set connection.
Best tool for ac flare nuts is an eccentric with a flare cone that floats to keep from having scored flares and off center flares You can hook your drill to it or use a rachet
I used the Rigid with the eccentric cone with torque release when the flare was done. Not cheap but no good A/C tools are, Makes a big difference and Never had leaking joints.
That was a two men job , but u did most of it by yourself.
Great job. ✌
I wonder how you keep from throwing a fit sometimes! Great content, thanks
I'd suggest going back to put some bump ups under the feet to raise that outdoor unit, here in the PNW we've run into a few where the runoff from the defrost cycle couldn't drain properly and wound up freezing and busting a hole in the bottom of the condenser coil.
Good videos dude. Hold back wrench bro!
You should find a way to use a 2nd wrench to hold back on the flair connections, not warp 'em out and bend um back. Your torque's will be off because of that.
That’s right..
@UCiz21FXLOV65NTgiUfJsxTg chanel lock on the king valve would be worth a try. Just a thought. I caught hell for.putting nylon on the face of the flair but never had a problem. Should put a dot of it behind the nut also and spin it around. They can be a pain like no other. Good job.
Looked great. Is there a charging mode on those systems to check super heat and sub cooling? Or do you just run the stat down a good bit to make system think there’s a high demand?
@@moorescomfortsystemsheatin6068 I do believe there’s a charging mode. Service manual is 120 pages, and I’ve used it more like a reference book than reading it.
Back up wrench 🔧 Is great
If you have flare issues I recommend an orbiting flare tool and a gauge block. Black Maxx makes a good set that includes everything.
I second this, I use the Hilmor variant and its absolutely fantastic.
Agreed. I got the hilmore as well
Hey Curtis again super helpful video and again my unit is a Mr cool universal but the exact same unit which is a rebadged gree flex I just checked my condenser after watching this video 6 months ago after I ordered my mr cool universal.
Quick question on your gree flex air handler or there additional Allan keys valves or hex key valves where you need to open them to release additional refrigerent from the air handler, the Mr cool universals have them like mine where you have to unscrew the covers just like the condenser and open the valves on the air handler. To release the refrigerent on the low and high side on the air handler itself as well as the condenser.
I know you mentioned most units don't have them but considering the Mr cool universals are pretty much exactly the same with mr cool universals
Bieng rebadged gree flexes just curios if your gree flex air handler also had those same exact valves. On the air handler where you hook up the high and low side.
And pardon me I a may be using the incorrect terms but I am using the terms that car mechanics use with high and low side. For refrigerent lines and pressures.
Many thanks for your effort, great installation video 👍👍👍
A couple drops of oil on the flares before torqueing helps alot.
On those flares, a couple things I do as GREE trained me. Definitely debar and apply a drop of POE oil to the flare cone. Additionally, when torque the lines, they recommend using a second wrench around the king valve cap.
I’ll be sure to do that next time
Use nylog sparingly, it can stop up small openings and orfice in mini split units
Thank you for sharing. I’m surprised they have a copper finished evaporate coil.
I like the hilmor orbital flaring tool. It’s effortless and doesn’t skin up your knuckles. Also you’ve gotta use a second wrench to hold the service valves when torquing down. Sorry you went through so much trouble with this install.
Hilmor is the bees knees
I have that same torque wrench, a rapid beep is letting you know your getting close. a solid beep is when you stop. you may have under torqued those.
I'm wondering if there is any expectation from Gree that you use a specific kind of flaring tool. Some other brands do that. A little bit of suitable refrigeration oil might have helped those flares out as well as the Nylog did.
Get the flaring tips for your drill and use a hold back on valves
Guess it’s worth setting up some flare practice and practicing different techniques and putting pressure to them to see..
hello, great video, question : isnt the gree flexx aso a heat pump? so the electric strips are for backup ?
Well I just ordered mine. Wallets light but hope my bills are as well this year.
What led you to try out the Gree equipment on this particular job, instead of your usual product line?
Yellow jacket flaring tool has deburr made in the flaring tool makes perfect flares. Nylock is a must on mini splits. Can you change the air handler to down flow on that brand?
Nice video. Do you recommend this Gree ducted heat pump.
Scary, HVAC guy?
Forget the channel locks and adjustable wrenches, slip a short piece of well-fitted steel pipe as a backing wrench over the cap of the service valve.
No bending of the support brackets.
so on start up in cool mode you simply open all indoor and outdoor valves and turn it on, let it run until it ramps up or is there any start up procedures with those SW buttons?
I use rls for my flares.
I didn’t think the yellow jacket torque wrench would fit the larger flare nut. Definitely not the 5 ton.
I like to add 4x4 under the unit for snow and drainage.
With the pad.
I had that heat strip molex connector burn up on me....what a nightmare to get the tec support to help me hard wire them together properly...
What is it with you using adjustable wrenches backward?
I cut off any factory flares and teflare…I know it’s good when it just misses the threads in the nut…when I don’t forget to put the nut on…👍🏻🤣
I’d love to see you install a MrCool with pre-evacuated lines that are pre-charged with refrigerant
Why
MrCool units are junk
@@clintgray1623 They are just rebadged Gree. Mr Cool Universal == Gree Flexx
Plenty of videos about those online
Thanks for sharing your experience with this brand...
I had the impression that the machine is too loud .. am i right ?
Thks.
Does the dip switches on the mr cool universal work the same way as the gree flex? My cool has 3 fan speed settings but can't figure out how to change them. On the gree website it says to flip the dip switches certain ways. They look like the same units so I'm guessing gree makes mr cool.
I have been listening to your Awesome videos for a while now and they are great. Is there a way too get louder audio? Thank you and God bless.
I highly recommend Rigid flaring tools. And too bad there wasn't an easy way to use a backup wrench on those valves.
You put your backup wrench perpendicular on the service cap.
I didn't know we have to pull vacuum in both lines how did u find that out ? and i thought it was nitrogen inside the e coil on the indoor unite
Do those condensers have filter driers pre installed ?
i believe you are supposed to back up the flare connections
Why wasn’t there a filter dryer connected to the liquid line I looked through installation Manuel’s and pdf with component list for the condenser no filter drier in the cabinet along with all the sensors in the cabinet how does it clean the refrigerant of non condensible or such things that could be suspended in the refrigerant .
I always used to put dab of oil on flare neck u definitely need back up wrench or bar. Loose metal is absorbing tourqe
What’s the availability for parts for GREE and there warranty? More components for higher probability of failing I’d hope there would be decent stock or lead times or your gonna have a pissed off customer. I’m going to be installing a 5 ton 19 seer York few weeks, I’m not to fond on high seer equipment but that’s what was determined.
Small dab of Nylog on the BACK of the flare. Stops the copper from binding on the nut.
Going to be great as long as it never breaks. Whenever I see Gree I cringe for parts availability and lead times if you can get them.
I may have a 3 ton GREE Flex electric furnace and heat pump installed. Is this considered a good unit?
Any comments would be appreciated.
Put a wrench on the service valve as the back up/support!!!!
What size air filter fits in the stock slot below the air handler?
Try Spin Flare drill bits 😎
Hey is L1 The hot wire or neutral?? My wire diagram looks like the hot is L1 but you have white there??
Use Nylog next time on those flare fittings makes a big difference. Lol commented before you went to the truck to get it. No p trap?
Line dips on the way out
Looks good. Why no trap on the drain pipe? The outdoor unit needs improvements on where the line set hooks up. Very poor design IMO where they were located and weak metal they were connected to.
Video wasn’t to long, heck we wouldn’t mind longer vids once in awhile
I have had someone recently install a gree heat pump at my place. it sits on a stand. after it finishes heating up the house it purges water from the bottom. Is this normal for a heat pump?
Adjuable wrech heads are directional
Any reason why you chose this system instead of A regular central air 20 seer unit?
What was your reasoning for using the Gree inverter system vs "conventional"? I have a family install for my sister and I have considered am upflow system similar to yours or a Mitsubishi with individual 1way ceiling cassettes. Not sure what she wants at this point... For flaring, I prefer the eccentric flaring tools Craig at ACServiceTech has a good explanation. Don't feel bad about the failed flares...at least you didn't drop a battery drill 20 onto the suction line, crack the flare and loose all the refrigerant on a Saturday evening with shops closed for the next 2 days and no more R410a in the tank and it's pushing 110*.
Sure you're not supposed to double flare them like the brake lines on a car so it can handle the pressure?
Why do they use those Philip screws or are they torx or square head can’t really tell from the video (what happened to 1/4” or 5/16 screw heads) lol nice job Curtis, seems overly complicated and excessive to me, I’ve installed Mitsubishi mini splits before way easier than this Gree unit…in my eyes 👀 oh and again “cc” please and thank you 🙏 One last comment, those use 18 gauge wire for communication? Or is it like a standard air conditioning system control wiring? Why isn’t the liquid line not insulated if it’s an inverter? I enjoy the long videos Curt
It’s Phillips . Yeh, I was wishing they were at least 1/4” screws
Nice job. Curious to see how long the gree will hold up. what kind of amps was the condenser drawing?
2-5 when I was with it.
2-5 or 25A ? I highly doubt a 3 ton 20 SEER unit will be less than 20 amps. 2 -3A from the Condenser fan motor maybe.
@@wirefeed3419 go many condenser fans have you amp drawed? Especially on a unit like this?
My Mr cool universal which is the same unit, started up under 1 amp and slowly ramped up to 12amp. Never seen it higher than that. But I never checked it in the hottest part of summer.
You need a drain trap on the air handler . And i agree with you on the flair fittings....they can be a big pain in the ass
Not unless you want to climb up in there to unclog it and you better have a safe T switch or it's gonna flood the house. It's probably running straight outside, so who cares? I wasn't paying attention.
Are you trying to read a super heat and sub cooling?
Anyone have experience with the “D” terminal? By wiring D at odu and Idu it is supposed to turn off indoor fan in defrost mode. Which is why I picked this system, customer doesn’t want heat strips. Only problem is indoor fan doesn’t turn off when defrost comes on…
what veto bag do you use?
We like long videos.
Kind of a miserable job, nice that you made it look professional. A few constructive thoughts to think about though. You should put a few drops pump oil on your flare cone and on the flare nut on the back side of the copper and the threads to stop friction binding. Use a wrench to back up the valves when tightening. If you are going to do a lot of these systems you may want to get an eccentric flare tool, they work much better. I didn’t see the trap on the evaporator condensate line and last I always sealed the line set hole into the building to keep out mice etc.
Your flare isn't deep enough. Set your copper to the stopper on the flaring tool
What kind of energy savings have you had?
Man, after all the rusty carcasses, isn’t it a joy to work on a shiny new Deathstar or Warp Nacelle??
problem with this unit is fan indoor is only 1 speed lol. need to use 2 speed airhandler at least to get advantage of variable speed unit outdoor features.
as far as flares you could buy flexible copper adapters already flanged on one side that are easy to flex into the unit.
Does the heat pump have switches that need to be adjusted for tonnage too? or just the fan coil
Yes