Your videos have made an impact on my machining, and my life. Thank You for taking your time to create these master pieces.. Anyone that is in the machining world, will understand the infinte amount of fine detail and highly skilled trade that we have been blessed to become a part of. Creation is key
Picasso produces another masterpiece. Nice mounting fixture you made for holding the cutter!! I like the step over each round insert has. Excellent engineering work on the cutter.
Just absolutely breathtaking. A true inspiration to someone like myself who is always keen on learning more about machining. Sending positive vibes from NYC!!!
Amazing video as always. Great comments. Funny is that our cat really like soft speaking voices and your videos are perfect! She is usually fast asleep within 10 min. or so. So, you are valued by both human and pet!
You do amazing work Peter, and you are really good at explaining what you want to do, and the process to get there. Being a one-man operation you have some very interesting projects, and you probably get these because people know that you are good at what you do. I also think your Mazak is an amazing machine. It is definitively a lathe, but it is a mill as well. Like some of those manual lathes with a milling post. Cool stuff, and keep it up. From Norway: Thanks.
Peter, thanks for the really nice videos. I am always amazed at what you can make these cool machines do. Sure makes my CNC'd J-head Bridgeport seem like a stone age ax. Craig
This stuff is absolutely incredible. Don’t get me wrong, I love my little Bridgeport and Monarch, but it’s amazing the profiles and shapes that are possible with a machine like this. Also, I really appreciate the explanation and knowledge you share. Means a lot to a hobby/newer “machinist” like myself. Keep up the great work! New subscriber for sure!
i did some machining in the navy and worked for day &NIGHT HEATING AND AIR AS A MECHANIC MAINTAINING SEAM WELDERS AND PUNCH PRESSES AND PRES BREAKS FOR 8 YEARS I RETIRED AFTER 21 YEARS WORKING FOE A LIMESTONE QUARY
Add an ND filter to your hero6 it will fix a lot of the blowout, and add a little extra protection as well. A polarising filter would reduce reflections too.
In the previous video there is a picture in a picture that shows the parts. It shows the surface it leaves. Remember this is a roughing tool so it leaves a scallop surface.
Great video! I'm really enjoying your work. If you're only using one camera to get all those angles, then my hat's off to you! That's a ton of video editing to achieve your style!!!! I'm in love with this machine! Thanks!!!!
Thanks bluehandsvideo; Yes there is just one camera. I means I have to stop move the camera and start the program a lot. Fortunately on a CNC machine this inst to difficult to do with the single block function key.
Dang! I know exactly how much work that is! Way more than I've been willing to do! LOL I'm only running mach3 and I don't trust the feed hold at all on it!! Since you're doing multiples of the same part, you can run each part with a different camera position and then do all the work on the computer. But.....knowing just how much grief and time are involved in the editing end of these vids, sometimes it's a lot easier to get shorter clips that are more specific and then splice them. I'll end up letting my camera run for the duration or until I know I've gotten the final tool paths. It can take quite awhile to whittle 2+hrs of vid down to 10min. lol Thank you for the time/effort you're putting into your vids! :)
At around 7:00, the shot seems underexposed because there is a bright pattern at the left, which messes the camera metering. You can either switch to spot/center metering (if available) or find a way to darken that side. The GoPro tends to focus in the center, so the shot should be framed such that the background does not sit right at the center. For the "high-speed" shots either there isn't enough lighting or the lights are pulsating. Thank you for the videos and the R&D topics.
If you rewatch the previous video. In a spot I show a picture in a picture in the upper right of the video. Those are the parts I rough with these cutters.
You did indeed I missed it the first time. Great videos. You do a lot of interesting stuff that I don't see elsewhere on youtube. Also that machine of yours is very cool.
Thanks userwl2850. These cutters were machined from commercial heat treated 4340 steel. That would make the hardness around 34-38 Rc. The first cutters I also made out of the same material and they have held up real well.
I know you just made that beautiful enclosure for your GoPro but you should check out the Sony RX0. It's about the same size as a GoPro but it has a vastly superior sensor in it. I have a RX0 that I've played with a lot and I think if they make a mk2, it could be really amazing.
I really enjoy watching your videos, thanks for sharing! Since the GoPro cameras really don't do a good job with the high frame rates could you please skip the slow motion parts? It might just be me but I find myself loosing interest when there is a "blurry" slowmo clip.
Nice tool Peter, what material is it, please? In the Hurco machines you can get a software-option where many different seats for inserts can be made, both milling and turning tools, really clever thought.
as for the lighting.. Abom got a ring lamp from somebody for his vertical mill.. fits in an existing hole. i wonder if a battery powered LED ring lamp could be fastened to your spindle face.. perhaps with different rows of Leds aimed in different directions.. with the switch ability to change the lighting pattern.. heck might be able to fab that up in plastic.. right in your own shop.. one thing.. you would need to test several LED colors.. to come out with an assortment that create normal white full spectrum light.. so its not such a single spectrum of light.. i realize this video is several months old..
Beautiful result. This is probably a stupid question, but if you don't ask, you don't learn! Why are the inserts on a spiral pattern around the cutter body?
The cut width is .915 wide. The inserts are 10 mm in diameter. In order to cut that width the inserts have to be staggered. The cutter has 8 inserts but is really a two flute cutter.
I'm not a pro but I'd also like to add that this also makes the cut per tooth less work on each tooth per revolution.. kinda like offset teeth on all types of saw blades.
Daniel Gilbert I think what he is referring to is the profile shape of each tooth. What you are referring to is the set of the teeth on a saw to make the kerf wider than the back of the blade. I have bought table saw blades where one tooth cuts to one side the next tooth cuts in the middle and the next to the other side. This is similar to what this cutter is doing. There are two inserts that cut toward the end face. The next two cut half way up in the middle. The next set half more. The last set cut at the upper face toward the shank. So 8 inserts in two sets of 4. Or two spiral flutes with 4 inserts each.
Daniel Gilbert no....... no.. no.. think about it... take look at a circular saw blade... every tooth is offset.. 1 , 2, 3, over and over so that when you feed in the material the next tooth doesn't have to do so much work... I'm not saying he designed the tool this way for that reason but as a resolute his tool/machine absolutely benefits. The more teeth on your cutter the more horse power your machine needs to complete a revolution.
Daniel Gilbert ... wow great job... you don't feel comfortable talking about something so you "lol" it off? It is what it is... there's not a lot of factors....
I’m not sure the exact coolant volume. I would guess about 200 gal. Most of the coolant gets carried out by the chip conveyer. When running the machine constantly I think I make up coolant about every 1.5 weeks.
for the threading you could put a can full of oil in the machine and everytime you want to tap just dip the tool in the can and there is new oil on it :)
What if you had to tap holes in the horizontal mode? I have used a wire brush to remove shavings off a tool. Just stop the spindle bury it in the brush reverse at slow speed while reversing the spindle. I have also thought but never tried it. To change to a tool with a Allen wrench and use it to remove screws and move them in a fixture. But like I say I haven’t tried this.
I did make a video showing these cutters in use. It was the one and only video one of my customers asked me to take down. They were concerned that their competition would see it.
Love watching your videos. One question. When roughing out the insert pocket, why not use a larger endmill and plunge it to get the majority of the material out, rather than wearing out the tips of 3/16" endmills?
Thanks Chad! The endmill is actually roughing the angle in steps on the insert pocket walls. That way the special endmill that finishes the tapered walls has less load on it. Plunging a end mill straight into something usually doesn’t work very well. But if I ground a form tool that could work. I usually try not to use any more special tooling than absolutely necessary.
the tool looks like a brand name tool , great result . Will you put black oxide or some protective layer against corrosion ? . On a side note , i would like to see some heavy machining sometimes , i know that machine can handle at least a 6mm radial depth of cut (turning).
When you were talking about the GoPro6 focusing, it looks like it's focusing on the background, not on the tool and work. This would make the work look terrible. At least this is what it looks like to me ... great video :o)
Thanks Paulster2; Yes I wish there was more control over the focusing options (Maybe there is and I haven't learned how). It would be nice in their GoPro app on the I-Pad to be able to touch the screen where you want the focus point. Something like some of the new cameras do with their touch screens.
Awesome video edge. Looks like fun making your own Cutters! How much do you offset the insert screw hole to pull the insert into the pocket? Do you prefer 4340 ph to 4140 ph for cutter bodies or is it more available in your region?
In the case of these insert pockets the inserts being round the screws aren’t offset. With the tapered sides of the insert pockets surround more than 180 degrees of the insert. It hasn’t been necessary to put the holes off center.
There is a up coming job out of Inconel 718 150 ksi (very tough material to machine) that is rather complicated. Not a real large part (about 4" dia. stock x 19.5 long) but its somewhat involved as far as milling/turning goes. There are seven parts to make.
That would depend on how you program the tool path for a tapered endmill. I usually program the path for the bottom bottom diameter or tip diameter. Than its just like a regular endmill as far as offsets are concerned. The upper diameter or taper just cuts away more material. Some CAM software's don't automatically do it that way but you can usually make that happen by just using a bottom profile shape.
To provide clearance for the face of the milling spindle in relation to the chuck. I have made different cutters that required topping the spindle toward the chuck. Without this arbor that projects the work out away that wouldn’t be possible.
Instead of using the ball nose end mill for profiling, why not run a regular endmill sideways with simultaneous rotation? Wouldn't that be a lot faster?
I'm actually cutting the radius on both ends and the flat in the middle to a angle. Only a form tool from the end could do that (I could grind such a tool on my grinder). Or a front and back corner rounder and a endmill.
The material is heat treated. It just not real hard. Probably around 43rc. The existing cutters have machined thousands of parts no problem. Heat treating to a harder state really isn’t necessary.
Peter, do you ever think about getting an additional Mazak? You could program one while the other is working. I know you are very well off, and you don't need the money, just wondered if you have ever considered it. Thanks!
Peter, What tapping fluid did you use? And how do you determine whether to use tapping fluid or flood coolant? And what material did you use, for tool body? Tool steel?
I have been using QualChem (I guess that’s spelled correct). Made by the same people that make the coolant I use. If possible I will always use tapping fluid. On rare occasions I do use flood coolant on large taps in aluminum. The body of these cutters is made out of 4340 commercial heat treat round bar.
Now that i am at the shop. I can give you some more accurate information. Its Qualichem QuickTap. I have tested/compared this to Molly-dee tapping fluid. It seems to work as well without the nasty smell and Molly-dee will also stain certain materials.
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Thank you for your time and effort Peter. Your videos are very well done, don't change a thing.
I am fascinated and mesmerized watching this. Just amazing to watch something so complex be created seemingly easily and accurately.
American ingenuity and craftsmanship at its best. Thanks peter for taking the time to share your knowledge and the excellent video
I could watch these videos all day long.
Great stuff!
Your videos have made an impact on my machining, and my life. Thank You for taking your time to create these master pieces.. Anyone that is in the machining world, will understand the infinte amount of fine detail and highly skilled trade that we have been blessed to become a part of.
Creation is key
Picasso produces another masterpiece. Nice mounting fixture you made for holding the cutter!! I like the step over each round insert has. Excellent engineering work on the cutter.
Just absolutely breathtaking. A true inspiration to someone like myself who is always keen on learning more about machining. Sending positive vibes from NYC!!!
Thanks Noah! NYC👍💪🇺🇸!
Peter, beautiful job! Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic!! You can really see the skill in your work!
You are superstar. I would spend a years working with you for free,just to have a piece of your experience. Great job👌
Amazing video as always. Great comments.
Funny is that our cat really like soft speaking voices and your videos are perfect! She is usually fast asleep within 10 min. or so.
So, you are valued by both human and pet!
Awesome work as always. thank you to take the time to share it with us
Awesome, great demonstration of the machines capabilities
WOW incredible work to see. Thank you for the video.
Beautiful work and design!
Now I want to see the tool run. Thanks for sharing! Love the videos.
I may have some video clips. If so I will post one on Instagram.
Your work is outstanding, great job
Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.
You do amazing work Peter, and you are really good at explaining what you want to do, and the process to get there. Being a one-man operation you have some very interesting projects, and you probably get these because people know that you are good at what you do. I also think your Mazak is an amazing machine. It is definitively a lathe, but it is a mill as well. Like some of those manual lathes with a milling post. Cool stuff, and keep it up. From Norway: Thanks.
Peter, you are amazing....like watching NASA type work being done. Thanks for sharing
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin NASA type work? Lmao
@Sxt NASA does all sorts of different work. Most of the work Peter does he has to hold tolerances just as tight as NASA.
@@xenonram In fact, Peter has said in a different video that he's MADE stuff for NASA.
Once again great work, thanks for sharing!
Beautiful!
Great work
Once again just amazing.
That is some beautiful tooling.
a great video, great work and great skill....i would really love to see that cutter in action
I'm no machinist but it's fascinating to watch these amazing machines
Amazing work peter
Peter, thanks for the really nice videos. I am always amazed at what you can make these cool machines do. Sure makes my CNC'd J-head Bridgeport seem like a
stone age ax.
Craig
The very machine I started on.
beautiful work!
Very nice. I can see that this took some serious programming!
Seriously impressive.
I liked what you've done
Finish on that is absolutely gorgeous.
I'd love to see the tool in use.
I'm glad I found your channel last year, and even more happy to see your subs increase! As always, concise, professional, and streamlined!
Thanks Aaron; last year this time I think I only had about 500-600 subs.
This stuff is absolutely incredible. Don’t get me wrong, I love my little Bridgeport and Monarch, but it’s amazing the profiles and shapes that are possible with a machine like this. Also, I really appreciate the explanation and knowledge you share. Means a lot to a hobby/newer “machinist” like myself. Keep up the great work! New subscriber for sure!
these new machines just facinate me with all they do they did nor exist to my knowledge years ago
Another great video.
Awsome love your work👍
Gee I really like your videos thanks!!
Thanks Craig!👍🖖
Nice Work! Thanks for sharing.
love it... epic job
Awesome work Peter :) Will you show the cutter in action once finished please :D
I may have some video clips of it running. I will check.
Nice video and thank you for sharing.
i did some machining in the navy and worked for day &NIGHT HEATING AND AIR AS A MECHANIC MAINTAINING SEAM WELDERS AND PUNCH PRESSES AND PRES BREAKS FOR 8 YEARS I RETIRED AFTER 21 YEARS WORKING FOE A LIMESTONE QUARY
such excellent videos.
Beautiful Job well done....:)
You are amazing man
Truly amazing
Add an ND filter to your hero6 it will fix a lot of the blowout, and add a little extra protection as well. A polarising filter would reduce reflections too.
Good job, I liked it.
Very nice work...
This is probably the wrong term to use but that's one pretty tool! A job well done. Thanks for the video.
Wow! So nice!
fantastic video - your channel is amazing - who needs sandvik - just make your own.
So nice!
very good work
Brilliant.
Very nice!
Peter, with the round inserts staggered at three levels can you show us an example of the tool marks it leaves? Beautiful tool! Thanks
In the previous video there is a picture in a picture that shows the parts. It shows the surface it leaves. Remember this is a roughing tool so it leaves a scallop surface.
incredible
Great video! I'm really enjoying your work. If you're only using one camera to get all those angles, then my hat's off to you! That's a ton of video editing to achieve your style!!!! I'm in love with this machine! Thanks!!!!
Thanks bluehandsvideo; Yes there is just one camera. I means I have to stop move the camera and start the program a lot. Fortunately on a CNC machine this inst to difficult to do with the single block function key.
Dang! I know exactly how much work that is! Way more than I've been willing to do! LOL I'm only running mach3 and I don't trust the feed hold at all on it!! Since you're doing multiples of the same part, you can run each part with a different camera position and then do all the work on the computer. But.....knowing just how much grief and time are involved in the editing end of these vids, sometimes it's a lot easier to get shorter clips that are more specific and then splice them. I'll end up letting my camera run for the duration or until I know I've gotten the final tool paths. It can take quite awhile to whittle 2+hrs of vid down to 10min. lol Thank you for the time/effort you're putting into your vids! :)
That is pretty sweet, love lit all, just wished I had a machine like that.
At around 7:00, the shot seems underexposed because there is a bright pattern at the left, which messes the camera metering. You can either switch to spot/center metering (if available) or find a way to darken that side. The GoPro tends to focus in the center, so the shot should be framed such that the background does not sit right at the center. For the "high-speed" shots either there isn't enough lighting or the lights are pulsating. Thank you for the videos and the R&D topics.
This is awesome! Any videos of it in action?
Very well done! Is there a chance we might see one of these in action?
cheers,
Johannes
Very cool. I've been looking forward to this since I watched the first one. Could you show a shot of the finished slot/groove on the part please.
If you rewatch the previous video. In a spot I show a picture in a picture in the upper right of the video. Those are the parts I rough with these cutters.
You did indeed I missed it the first time. Great videos. You do a lot of interesting stuff that I don't see elsewhere on youtube. Also that machine of yours is very cool.
Beautiful. What steel was it made from and was it heat treated?
Thanks userwl2850. These cutters were machined from commercial heat treated 4340 steel. That would make the hardness around 34-38 Rc. The first cutters I also made out of the same material and they have held up real well.
Excelent video
I know you just made that beautiful enclosure for your GoPro but you should check out the Sony RX0. It's about the same size as a GoPro but it has a vastly superior sensor in it. I have a RX0 that I've played with a lot and I think if they make a mk2, it could be really amazing.
I will check into that. I like the build quality of the Hero6 over the Hero4. I’m not sure yet if it’s better than the Hero 4 camera.
I really enjoy watching your videos, thanks for sharing! Since the GoPro cameras really don't do a good job with the high frame rates could you please skip the slow motion parts? It might just be me but I find myself loosing interest when there is a "blurry" slowmo clip.
Bravissimo...
How does it perform? Are you satisfied with these?
Nice tool Peter, what material is it, please?
In the Hurco machines you can get a software-option where many different seats for inserts can be made, both milling and turning tools, really clever thought.
nice video )
as for the lighting.. Abom got a ring lamp from somebody for his vertical mill.. fits in an existing hole. i wonder if a battery powered LED ring lamp could be fastened to your spindle face.. perhaps with different rows of Leds aimed in different directions.. with the switch ability to change the lighting pattern.. heck might be able to fab that up in plastic.. right in your own shop.. one thing.. you would need to test several LED colors.. to come out with an assortment that create normal white full spectrum light.. so its not such a single spectrum of light.. i realize this video is several months old..
Beautiful result. This is probably a stupid question, but if you don't ask, you don't learn! Why are the inserts on a spiral pattern around the cutter body?
The cut width is .915 wide. The inserts are 10 mm in diameter. In order to cut that width the inserts have to be staggered. The cutter has 8 inserts but is really a two flute cutter.
I'm not a pro but I'd also like to add that this also makes the cut per tooth less work on each tooth per revolution.. kinda like offset teeth on all types of saw blades.
Daniel Gilbert I think what he is referring to is the profile shape of each tooth. What you are referring to is the set of the teeth on a saw to make the kerf wider than the back of the blade. I have bought table saw blades where one tooth cuts to one side the next tooth cuts in the middle and the next to the other side. This is similar to what this cutter is doing. There are two inserts that cut toward the end face. The next two cut half way up in the middle. The next set half more. The last set cut at the upper face toward the shank. So 8 inserts in two sets of 4. Or two spiral flutes with 4 inserts each.
Daniel Gilbert no....... no.. no.. think about it... take look at a circular saw blade... every tooth is offset.. 1 , 2, 3, over and over so that when you feed in the material the next tooth doesn't have to do so much work... I'm not saying he designed the tool this way for that reason but as a resolute his tool/machine absolutely benefits. The more teeth on your cutter the more horse power your machine needs to complete a revolution.
Daniel Gilbert ... wow great job... you don't feel comfortable talking about something so you "lol" it off? It is what it is... there's not a lot of factors....
Love your videos. Odd question but how much coolant will that machine hold? How often do you top off the coolant level?
I’m not sure the exact coolant volume. I would guess about 200 gal. Most of the coolant gets carried out by the chip conveyer. When running the machine constantly I think I make up coolant about every 1.5 weeks.
Nice jobs....
for the threading you could put a can full of oil in the machine and everytime you want to tap just dip the tool in the can and there is new oil on it :)
What if you had to tap holes in the horizontal mode? I have used a wire brush to remove shavings off a tool. Just stop the spindle bury it in the brush reverse at slow speed while reversing the spindle. I have also thought but never tried it. To change to a tool with a Allen wrench and use it to remove screws and move them in a fixture. But like I say I haven’t tried this.
Very complex part. And your tool lengths were all almost perfect, with barely any chatter. You make it look easy! What CAM do you use?
How fast is the sub-spindle turning w/ the 1/2" cutter?
Thx.
Marty
The 1/2" endmill is turning a 4000 rpm. The feed rate varies because of the milling style employed but when cutting is at about 50 inches per minute.
That looks awesome. Do you have any video on the finished product being used?
I did make a video showing these cutters in use. It was the one and only video one of my customers asked me to take down. They were concerned that their competition would see it.
@@EdgePrecision I completely understand, the finished product looks awesome.
Love watching your videos. One question. When roughing out the insert pocket, why not use a larger endmill and plunge it to get the majority of the material out, rather than wearing out the tips of 3/16" endmills?
Thanks Chad! The endmill is actually roughing the angle in steps on the insert pocket walls. That way the special endmill that finishes the tapered walls has less load on it. Plunging a end mill straight into something usually doesn’t work very well. But if I ground a form tool that could work. I usually try not to use any more special tooling than absolutely necessary.
Great video, love your work. What insert is that cutter designed for?
Thanks Trevor; The Insert is a Iscar RCMT 1204M0-14 IC907 Grade.
the tool looks like a brand name tool , great result . Will you put black oxide or some protective layer against corrosion ? . On a side note , i would like to see some heavy machining sometimes , i know that machine can handle at least a 6mm radial depth of cut (turning).
As the jobs come up is how your seeing them. If the job has heavy machining you will see it.
When you were talking about the GoPro6 focusing, it looks like it's focusing on the background, not on the tool and work. This would make the work look terrible. At least this is what it looks like to me ... great video :o)
Thanks Paulster2; Yes I wish there was more control over the focusing options (Maybe there is and I haven't learned how). It would be nice in their GoPro app on the I-Pad to be able to touch the screen where you want the focus point. Something like some of the new cameras do with their touch screens.
Awesome video edge. Looks like fun making your own Cutters! How much do you offset the insert screw hole to pull the insert into the pocket? Do you prefer 4340 ph to 4140 ph for cutter bodies or is it more available in your region?
In the case of these insert pockets the inserts being round the screws aren’t offset. With the tapered sides of the insert pockets surround more than 180 degrees of the insert. It hasn’t been necessary to put the holes off center.
Do you have video of these tool in action?
Great video with some quality machine work as always! Have you got any big projects on the horizon?
There is a up coming job out of Inconel 718 150 ksi (very tough material to machine) that is rather complicated. Not a real large part (about 4" dia. stock x 19.5 long) but its somewhat involved as far as milling/turning goes. There are seven parts to make.
I look forward to seeing videos of it
😎👍
hi Peter, you should try use a strobe light to get better images.
dont forget the disco ball
What did features did you end up machining with this custom cutter? Did it have a “lead” of some sort? Like a thread or ballscrew?
Never mind saw the first video.
Tips how to use the tool offsets with tapered end mills? :)
That would depend on how you program the tool path for a tapered endmill. I usually program the path for the bottom bottom diameter or tip diameter. Than its just like a regular endmill as far as offsets are concerned. The upper diameter or taper just cuts away more material. Some CAM software's don't automatically do it that way but you can usually make that happen by just using a bottom profile shape.
What's the point of the big metal cone he has it mounted on? Just to make it stick out? Or is it more stable for some reason?
To provide clearance for the face of the milling spindle in relation to the chuck. I have made different cutters that required topping the spindle toward the chuck. Without this arbor that projects the work out away that wouldn’t be possible.
Instead of using the ball nose end mill for profiling, why not run a regular endmill sideways with simultaneous rotation? Wouldn't that be a lot faster?
I'm actually cutting the radius on both ends and the flat in the middle to a angle. Only a form tool from the end could do that (I could grind such a tool on my grinder). Or a front and back corner rounder and a endmill.
Ball endmill for what he's doing is the only way to go...
cool. What material is the part made of?
I made these out of 4340 comercial heat treated steel.
You should be known as Mr. Wizard
I would be great if you can try with hardening
The material is heat treated. It just not real hard. Probably around 43rc. The existing cutters have machined thousands of parts no problem. Heat treating to a harder state really isn’t necessary.
Peter, do you ever think about getting an additional Mazak? You could program one while the other is working. I know you are very well off, and you don't need the money, just wondered if you have ever considered it. Thanks!
No ones enough.
Peter,
What tapping fluid did you use? And how do you determine whether to use tapping fluid or flood coolant? And what material did you use, for tool body? Tool steel?
I have been using QualChem (I guess that’s spelled correct). Made by the same people that make the coolant I use. If possible I will always use tapping fluid. On rare occasions I do use flood coolant on large taps in aluminum. The body of these cutters is made out of 4340 commercial heat treat round bar.
Now that i am at the shop. I can give you some more accurate information. Its Qualichem QuickTap. I have tested/compared this to Molly-dee tapping fluid. It seems to work as well without the nasty smell and Molly-dee will also stain certain materials.
Ok that is good to know I have better option to moly dee. Moly is nasty stuff. Like dirty motor oil heh