One of the things I love about your technique Tuesday videos is that they fit so well with my learning style: either putting concrete words to my observations or taking me the half step forward I needed to understand better what I have been doing. Another great advantage is that if my brain isn't ready for the info when you publish it, it is available when I need it and I can watch many times if I want to. Thank you again.
Very interesting and enlightening, especially the part about ribbing at the bottoms of sweaters. I've always been wary where patterns say to use a smaller needle there because I want a straight silhouette all the way down the sweater. Thanks much.
I really appreciate the detail that you have provided in this tutorial...so much to take from it, thank you. From what you've taught I now understand why a hat I made flared out at the rib so bad, but the body of the hat (cables) maintained it's original size and shape, after wearing less than 5 times! In the pattern only one needle size for both the ribbed and cabled sections is called for. It is now clear to me what I ought to do different the next time I come across such a design. Thanks again 😊
I don't think any of the patterns I've used told me to switch needles for the ribbing, perhaps because they were worried about putting people off by listing two sets of needles in the 'you will need section'. Nor do I remember ever having this technique/trick mentioned, let alone explained. Over a decade of thinking that I was just knitting ribs untidily cleared up by as many minutes of your excellent explanation! I will definitely be experimenting to try and get better (which for most of my projects means 'more elastic') ribbing with this new information.
Hi Roxanne, I watched your video on ribbing. I’m making a cardigan for my husband. I found it very difficult to find a 4ply yarn pattern to make his cardigan. So I decided to use a pattern that had a 3.75mm needle for the ribbing and I reduced the ribbing needle to 2.50mm and I’m using a 3.50mm needle to knit the body of the cardigan. The pattern also has a zig zag kind of cable with a purl 2 knit 1 panel. The repeat pattern is a 10 stitch. Sounds very confusing I know. I put up 200 stitches for the back. My problem is I’m using 4ply sock and and it’s very stretchy. I’m trying to knit it to a size large but it’s hard to gage if 200 stitches for the back and 100 stitches for each panel for the front is enough. Please can you advise me.
I love your videos! I am an advanced beginner, and always find your topics so helpful in building my knowledge. I frequently wonder what needle brand/type/size and weight of yarn you use in your demonstrations....that info may be helpful to others as we build our background knowledge.
I do include yarn and needle in my description template these days, but older videos frequently do not include that information. My advice to newer knitters is to try lots of different types of needles in order to find the type of needle you like *as a new knitter*, with the knowledge that as your skills and experience and knitting style evolve, you will probably like something different later on, and you may discover that tools you don't like in general will be perfect in specific situations, and what is perfect for you will not be perfect for someone else.
I have a question... I saw a kind of ribbing one day in a magazine... really, really loved the effect but can't find it in my stitches dictionary... it was a 1x1 rib but the knitted stitch looked like "twisted"... 1) How do you do this? I tried few ways but it didn't give the same effect~or no effect at all :) 2) Is this kind of rib more stretchy or the same as the normally knitted one? Thank you... really love your videos :) Looking forward to read you and to the next video
It was probably as you suspected, with the knits worked through the back loop. For some reason, some people claim that this is a stretchier ribbing, but it certainly doesn't stretch wider than a typical k1p1 ribbing. It can't, because the knits are twisted, and restrict the stretch, but it probably does *pull in* more than 1x1 ribbing when it's relaxed. If you knit this type of ribbing in the round, you simply work all the knits through the back loops, and purl the purls normally. If you do this flat, then on the RS of the work, you work the knits through the back, but on the WS you work the purls through the back. You can see examples on my Designer page on Ravelry. There are three fingerless mitts patterns worked in Bavarian traveling twisted stitch patterns, and the cuffs are worked with k1 tbl, p1 ribbing. www.ravelry.com/designers/roxanne-richardson (patterns I'm referring to are Deep Freeze Helix, Palm Tulips, and Translated.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much... now I see why it didn't work, I was doing the purl side "normal purl'... I tried on a little sample and it worked.... YEAH!
Do you mean working those columns as seed stitch or garter stitch? That would probably spread the columns a little, although it wouldn't make a difference in the maximum stretch. I would suggest knitting some swatches, and comparing your results.
Ugh, I am trying to knit a cute sweater that is knit entirely in 1x1 rib and it looks AWEFUL! The traveling strand part of the stitch is so long and the twisted part (the actual stitch) is so tight! It looks like it’s totally stretched out even though I’ve been trying to knit very tight. Finally gave up and going to knit the sweater in mock rib which is what my “spidey” sense was telling me to do anyway. Maybe the alternating rows of knit will get it more structure? Maybe I just need to swatch more. Or maybe I just need to put this project away for a while 😢
Great information! I wonder what kind of ribbing combination would be best for sock cuffs, A 1x1 using smaller needle size, or a 2x2, or reducing stitches and same size needles
The ribbing on sock cuffs surrounds the largest circumference of the leg, rather than needing to pull in. Therefore, it's an advantage to use the same size needle and have the slightly enlarged sts, because it provides a bit of extra circumference. If you have a calf that's a bit larger than your stitch count can surround, you can go UP a needle size to get a even more room for the duration of the ribbing, then switch to your regular needle for the stockinette portion.
Roxanne Richardson thank you for the answer Roxanne, I didn’t know that. I asked because I have some socks that don’t stay up, and I don’t know how to correct that.
There is likely another reason why they don't stay up, such as a heel that's too short, and pulling the sock leg down. The August Sock KAL pattern has a great deal of information about how to measure your foot/leg, as well as how to identify where fit issues are, and how to modify them for a good fit.
Roxanne Richardson I already bought the pattern to participate in the Sock KAL but then I didn’t have the time. I’m going to study your instructions to see if I find the reason. Thank you!
Love your technical knitting advice! I would find it helpful if you would keep the written material on the screen a bit longer. I find it hard to read really fast and process what you are saying at the same time. A big thank you for all you do!
You can also pause so you can read the screen, and double tap the screen on the left side to rewind a few seconds (assuming that you're using a phone or tablet).
Hi, you mentioned in your video a sweater from the bottom up where you could have more stitches in the 1x1 ribbing (eg. 3.5mm needles) and then less in the stockinette on 4.0mm needles to create a 'straight' effect on the transition from the 1x1 ribbing to the stockinette. In that case where would you do the decreases? For eg. In the first round of stockinette (on the 4.0mm needles), or in the last round of the ribbing (on the 3.5mm needles)? Keeping in mind that I would also want to slip the knits and purl the purls on the last round of ribbing to smooth the transition between 1x1 and stockinette. Cheers
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you for replying. I guess there is no standard accepted way to do this. I can try different ways, not sure if I could tell the difference as I'm only a beginner.
I understand why I have the slack between knit and purl stitches in ribbing but how do you get rid of it. My ribbing is so uneven. There is a gap between each knit and purl stitch formed by the horizontal yarn going to the purl stitch. I've tried to pull the purl stitch in after I completed it by taking the yarn to the back before returning it to the front for the next purl stitch in a K2 P2 rib, but there is still that gap. So I tried taking the yarn clockwise around the purl stitch which means you have to knit through the back of this stitch on the next round (if you are knitting in the round). It is better but not eliminated. So do you have a better solution for this uneven rib problem. I find that problem going from knitted cables to the purl stitches on the side of the cables.
I am trying to do a blanket with K3 *P5, K3* but I am getting huge ladders when going from knit to purl. Can anyone give my some ideas on how to fix this? I have not been knitting long and learned from watching videos like this.
i don't know how you do it, but you always seem to have the perfect video to answer any question! Thanks!
One of the things I love about your technique Tuesday videos is that they fit so well with my learning style: either putting concrete words to my observations or taking me the half step forward I needed to understand better what I have been doing. Another great advantage is that if my brain isn't ready for the info when you publish it, it is available when I need it and I can watch many times if I want to. Thank you again.
7:45. Oh!! That's why my 1x1 ribbing knit stitches were enormous. Lol. Thanks so much. Great and clear explanation.
Very interesting and enlightening, especially the part about ribbing at the bottoms of sweaters. I've always been wary where patterns say to use a smaller needle there because I want a straight silhouette all the way down the sweater. Thanks much.
I really appreciate the detail that you have provided in this tutorial...so much to take from it, thank you. From what you've taught I now understand why a hat I made flared out at the rib so bad, but the body of the hat (cables) maintained it's original size and shape, after wearing less than 5 times! In the pattern only one needle size for both the ribbed and cabled sections is called for. It is now clear to me what I ought to do different the next time I come across such a design. Thanks again 😊
Thanks. I’ve watched this several times since it was published. Really enjoyed the comparisons and explanations.
You're welcome!
Thank you Roxanne! Once again my question marks have been straightened out by your excellent tutorials.
Eva from Sweden
I don't think any of the patterns I've used told me to switch needles for the ribbing, perhaps because they were worried about putting people off by listing two sets of needles in the 'you will need section'. Nor do I remember ever having this technique/trick mentioned, let alone explained. Over a decade of thinking that I was just knitting ribs untidily cleared up by as many minutes of your excellent explanation! I will definitely be experimenting to try and get better (which for most of my projects means 'more elastic') ribbing with this new information.
Wow, this is so enlightening!!😄 Love learning the principles of how stitches work, and it's applicable to actual knitting!! Thanks so much🙏🙏
Great video. Posted just when I had questions about ribbing. Thank you.
I learned to knit in the 80s! I learned from books because I didn’t know anyone who knit to teach me. People have it so much easier now with TH-cam!
Thank you for another great video! I have enjoyed your videos a great deal and I learn so much from them, please keep up the good work.
I always learn so much from your videos!
Thank you, I always wondered why some designs said start with smaller needles and some didn''t.
Thank you for this valuable lesson! I had a few aha!!! moments of understanding. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thankyou!, this tutorial has been very helpful, learning all the time :)
Have you ever done a video about picking up stitches on 1X1 ribbing? Thanks for the great information!
Hi Roxanne, I watched your video on ribbing. I’m making a cardigan for my husband. I found it very difficult to find a 4ply yarn pattern to make his cardigan. So I decided to use a pattern that had a 3.75mm needle for the ribbing and I reduced the ribbing needle to 2.50mm and I’m using a 3.50mm needle to knit the body of the cardigan. The pattern also has a zig zag kind of cable with a purl 2 knit 1 panel. The repeat pattern is a 10 stitch. Sounds very confusing I know. I put up 200 stitches for the back. My problem is I’m using 4ply sock and and it’s very stretchy. I’m trying to knit it to a size large but it’s hard to gage if 200 stitches for the back and 100 stitches for each panel for the front is enough. Please can you advise me.
Another really helpful video! Thanks!
Thanks so much for explaining this, love love to learn more about knitting!
You are just wonderful. Thanks for the great video!
Fabulous info thank you very much indeed😍
I love your videos! I am an advanced beginner, and always find your topics so helpful in building my knowledge. I frequently wonder what needle brand/type/size and weight of yarn you use in your demonstrations....that info may be helpful to others as we build our background knowledge.
I do include yarn and needle in my description template these days, but older videos frequently do not include that information. My advice to newer knitters is to try lots of different types of needles in order to find the type of needle you like *as a new knitter*, with the knowledge that as your skills and experience and knitting style evolve, you will probably like something different later on, and you may discover that tools you don't like in general will be perfect in specific situations, and what is perfect for you will not be perfect for someone else.
Excellent!
thank you so very much you are the best always
Thank you a great informative video very appreciated.
Thank you for sharing this tutorial
Thanks!
You bet!
I have a question... I saw a kind of ribbing one day in a magazine... really, really loved the effect but can't find it in my stitches dictionary... it was a 1x1 rib but the knitted stitch looked like "twisted"...
1) How do you do this? I tried few ways but it didn't give the same effect~or no effect at all :)
2) Is this kind of rib more stretchy or the same as the normally knitted one?
Thank you... really love your videos :)
Looking forward to read you and to the next video
It was probably as you suspected, with the knits worked through the back loop. For some reason, some people claim that this is a stretchier ribbing, but it certainly doesn't stretch wider than a typical k1p1 ribbing. It can't, because the knits are twisted, and restrict the stretch, but it probably does *pull in* more than 1x1 ribbing when it's relaxed. If you knit this type of ribbing in the round, you simply work all the knits through the back loops, and purl the purls normally. If you do this flat, then on the RS of the work, you work the knits through the back, but on the WS you work the purls through the back. You can see examples on my Designer page on Ravelry. There are three fingerless mitts patterns worked in Bavarian traveling twisted stitch patterns, and the cuffs are worked with k1 tbl, p1 ribbing. www.ravelry.com/designers/roxanne-richardson (patterns I'm referring to are Deep Freeze Helix, Palm Tulips, and Translated.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much... now I see why it didn't work, I was doing the purl side "normal purl'... I tried on a little sample and it worked.... YEAH!
Hi Roxanne, This is such an informative video! Would doing broken rib stitch on the purl segment of ribbing keep the ribbing open a bit ? Thank you.
Do you mean working those columns as seed stitch or garter stitch? That would probably spread the columns a little, although it wouldn't make a difference in the maximum stretch. I would suggest knitting some swatches, and comparing your results.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you!
Ugh, I am trying to knit a cute sweater that is knit entirely in 1x1 rib and it looks AWEFUL! The traveling strand part of the stitch is so long and the twisted part (the actual stitch) is so tight! It looks like it’s totally stretched out even though I’ve been trying to knit very tight. Finally gave up and going to knit the sweater in mock rib which is what my “spidey” sense was telling me to do anyway.
Maybe the alternating rows of knit will get it more structure? Maybe I just need to swatch more. Or maybe I just need to put this project away for a while 😢
Great information! I wonder what kind of ribbing combination would be best for sock cuffs, A 1x1 using smaller needle size, or a 2x2, or reducing stitches and same size needles
The ribbing on sock cuffs surrounds the largest circumference of the leg, rather than needing to pull in. Therefore, it's an advantage to use the same size needle and have the slightly enlarged sts, because it provides a bit of extra circumference. If you have a calf that's a bit larger than your stitch count can surround, you can go UP a needle size to get a even more room for the duration of the ribbing, then switch to your regular needle for the stockinette portion.
Roxanne Richardson thank you for the answer Roxanne, I didn’t know that. I asked because I have some socks that don’t stay up, and I don’t know how to correct that.
There is likely another reason why they don't stay up, such as a heel that's too short, and pulling the sock leg down. The August Sock KAL pattern has a great deal of information about how to measure your foot/leg, as well as how to identify where fit issues are, and how to modify them for a good fit.
Roxanne Richardson I already bought the pattern to participate in the Sock KAL but then I didn’t have the time. I’m going to study your instructions to see if I find the reason. Thank you!
Love your technical knitting advice! I would find it helpful if you would keep the written material on the screen a bit longer. I find it hard to read really fast and process what you are saying at the same time. A big thank you for all you do!
If there are bits that you find are going too fast, you can click on the little gear at the bottom of the video display and slow down the video speed.
You can also pause so you can read the screen, and double tap the screen on the left side to rewind a few seconds (assuming that you're using a phone or tablet).
Hi, you mentioned in your video a sweater from the bottom up where you could have more stitches in the 1x1 ribbing (eg. 3.5mm needles) and then less in the stockinette on 4.0mm needles to create a 'straight' effect on the transition from the 1x1 ribbing to the stockinette. In that case where would you do the decreases? For eg. In the first round of stockinette (on the 4.0mm needles), or in the last round of the ribbing (on the 3.5mm needles)? Keeping in mind that I would also want to slip the knits and purl the purls on the last round of ribbing to smooth the transition between 1x1 and stockinette. Cheers
You can find the answer by doing some experiments with swatches, and then see which result you like best.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you for replying. I guess there is no standard accepted way to do this. I can try different ways, not sure if I could tell the difference as I'm only a beginner.
I understand why I have the slack between knit and purl stitches in ribbing but how do you get rid of it. My ribbing is so uneven. There is a gap between each knit and purl stitch formed by the horizontal yarn going to the purl stitch. I've tried to pull the purl stitch in after I completed it by taking the yarn to the back before returning it to the front for the next purl stitch in a K2 P2 rib, but there is still that gap. So I tried taking the yarn clockwise around the purl stitch which means you have to knit through the back of this stitch on the next round (if you are knitting in the round). It is better but not eliminated. So do you have a better solution for this uneven rib problem. I find that problem going from knitted cables to the purl stitches on the side of the cables.
I have seen tutorials that talk about this. I suggest you look for tutorials about the difference between continental purling and English purling.
I am trying to do a blanket with K3 *P5, K3* but I am getting huge ladders when going from knit to purl. Can anyone give my some ideas on how to fix this? I have not been knitting long and learned from watching videos like this.
Give it a little extra tug to tighten up the purls...just a small one. It seems to help mine.
when calculating my cast on for a top, should I base it on the smaller needles for the ribbing, or the bigger needles for the stockinette?
Base it on what you need for for the stockinette on larger needles.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much!
You could maintain the size of the first example by having ribbing on the public side and just knitting on the other side.
Thank you...🤗