I was pouring oil out of either the front main seal or the lower Timing chain cover on my POS VW 2.0t. Lost 7-8 quarts of oil during a trip. It was a Sunday and no shops in the area were open. Guy at autozone said he never had a stop leak that worked.. I agreed but had no choice but to pick one. The blue devil rms stop leak was what I went with and I was shocked the next morning when I looked under the car and "not a single drop of oil" on the concrete. I'm sure it is not a long term fix, but absolutely incredible results from a non-believer of stop leak fluids.
@@mikebrigandi_ Still doesn't leak at all. But the car took a poop. I was one of the unlucky people that didn't know the timing chain tensioner wasn't updated when they did the recall. About to do put a new head and valves in it.. 🙄
I am looking to find out what is the BEST STOP LEAK PRODUCT FOR A COOLING SYSTEM ON A (2009 DODGE CARAVAN) WITH THE LEAK BEING LOCATED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF RADIATOR ABOUT 80% UP THE SIDE TOWARDS THE TOP CLOSE TO THE TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES... AND LEAKS AFTER I DRIVE THE VEHICLE FOR 10+ MINUTES AND THE ENGINE HEATS UP AND PRESSURE BUILDS UP AND THEN MAYBE A CUP OR TWO OF COOLANT LEAKS OUT!!! SO I WOULD LIKE TO FIND OUT WHICH ONE OF THE RADIATOR SEALANTS REALLY WORKS THE BEST FOR "LARGER" LEAKS... ALSO WHILE NOT CAUSING ANY DAMAGE TO ANYTHING ELSE ETC!?!?!??? IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME WITH THIS IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED BY ME AND THE ENTIRE FAMILY AS WE DESPERATELY RELY ON THE VEHICLE!!!! THANK YOU TO ANYONE THAT TAKES THE TIME TO SHARE ANY SUGGESTIONS ABOUT WHICH ONE OF THE LONG LINES OF SEALANT PRODUCTS WILL WORK THE BEST FOR MY SITUATION!!! THANK YOU
The instructions clearly say most leaks resolve themselves after 250 miles or 3 days, so you should give an update when the 3 days is up. In my case I had a leak that was annoying as hell, and one bottle of this absolutely corrected it for me. So far so good for me.
I put it in my transmission about three weeks ago, and so far, so good. The freakin' thing still shifts a little rough between 1st and 2nd gear, but I honestly have to say it drives a bit better now than it did before I added the Bar's Stop Leak. At this point, I've put about 500 miles on it. I'll try to remember to keep this comment updated.
Bought my 06 sierra with 80k miles in 2018, got my trans fluid changed at 85k and it started slipping while driving home lol I put in barsleaks trans super fix or the dual formula and it has only slipped one time at 100k miles, i have 140k now. Now I'm gonna try the rear main leak fix
Liked the video, but I'm not sure why the "I can't believe . . . ," "do not use" and thumbs down. Seems like the product did what you'd expect, considering this was more than a "minor" leak, as indicated on the label. At least it slowed it down to where you won't have to keep adding as much oil to it--a good stopgap (no pun intended) until you get the thing repaired.
Wow this was a really good video. I know there’s no shortcut for a really good mechanic. But some of us specially in this economy are kind of broke. So it’s good to see a product do what it says
I've used the bars pelletized stop leak on my my wifes 2012 honda civic. But keep in mind try to use new antifreeze. Her car had about 90,000 miles when I changed the antifreeze and then poured in the PELLETIZED bars stop leak. Her car has never leaked radiator fluid since.
Does it work...from what i seen yeah...but it honestly is not good an can cause other problems. If you love the car replace seal...if you dont use stop leak.
did you overfill the crank case? it doesn't say in the instructions... but it is common sense... you have to make sure your oil level isn't too high before you put that in!!!!
I'm confused AF... The description says "DO NOT USE" "I Cant believe what it did to my engine" and yet it did stop a lot of the leak and seemed to work near perfectly?
Just my opinion: if people can't tell an improvement without the "side by side" comparison, they shouldn't attempt to fix ANYTHING. ;) Thanks for the review.
People are confused because the video says it works but the description says it DOES NOT work, But then people like you that can't read shouldn't have an opinion on anything
I’m just looking for something to stop my wife’s grand Cherokee from leaking a few drops on the garage floor until we get her a new one next month. I’m pretty sure it’s the rear main seal but I’m done working on this car I need something easy
I guess my question is did you powerwash the underside of the car before you used the stop leak? If you didn't the oil on the paper could be from before.
I had a small radiator leak and used the radiator product. It ruined my radiator and resulted in me having to replace the radiator all together. It was a terrible decision to trust the Stop Leak.
I used "k seal"for a broken heater matrix and was superb, never had another problem, was an orange liquid with a kind of thin wire stuff in it, must of done at least 40k with no issues
I had a small leak at bottom of radiator core and fixed it with 2 Tablespoons of Barr's Stop Leak for radiator. I was afraid of using the whole bottle as recommended. Why don't they tell you to drain and refresh the water/antifreeze after applying a whole bottle to fix the leak?
did u change the oil before adding or jus add the stop leak, just asking because thats what ive seen on a few forums,, says to drain then add the stop leak then refill like a normal oil change,, problem is for it to work effectively , has to be done at EVERY OIL CHANGE, or drop the transmission and replace the entire seal,, i guess we will see,, cuz im having the same issue on my Jeep
in my 2000 Corolla that is burning oil, I tried 1 container (11 oz.) and the improvement was dramatic... Burning oil from valve seal/guide brittleness at 300K miles and NOT 3rd ring down in each piston ...
I am using bars leak 1040 right now. A pan or main seal leak on 98 2.4l caravan. A small leak is leaking less! 5 days. 130 miles. So far. The bars leak tech said more driving is needed . we will see. Bill
2002 2.2l rear main seal pissing oil. Fresh oil change with 1 bottle and100miles later she’s as dry as can be. Fingers crossed she lasts another 10 years
You could have cleaned the area with break cleaner before driving the second time to see the difference.. because those drops could be from the remainder fluid that was already outside
Do you have multiple of those small radiators and use new product in new radiator... Or did you run multiple products in one radiator? Have you ever looked inside the radiator to see if it filled it with gunk?
is not mileage to count but HOW LONG additive covers all rubber seals . you need at least a week to see some results if seals didn’t go behind additive capabilities to softening and expand rubber
Hi Nate love your videos. Very interesting to see the results of this test. I saw another person comment about AT-205 reseal and would love to see a video about that as well. Keep up the great work man!! 👍
My opinion on stop leaks is that you are way better off correctly fixing the leak if at all possible. I don't like the idea of stop leaks because they affect all the seals in the system and because they will reduce the oil's lubricity and change its viscosity, even if only slightly. An engine may not care much about this, but it could kill an automatic transmission. Think about it- Someone has a leaking valve cover gasket, so they add a stop leak to fix it. The stop leak also swells the cam seals as well as the crank seals and all the other seals and they wear into that position. When they start to relax over time or if someone changes the oil and doesn't add the stop leak again, you just created an expensive leak you didn't have before. I have never used an oil stop leak before but from what I have seen and heard from people who have used them, any improvements are usually very temporary and sometimes when the leak returns it leaks worse than it did before. If someone has a leaking rear main seal on an old beater that they plan to dump soon maybe give it a try. But if you care about your vehicle or if the fix is simple like a leaking valve cover gasket or something, my advice is to just fix the leak correctly and be done with it. I feel strongly enough about that that when my rear main seal went bad I spent the day pulling the engine out to replace it instead of trying to use a stop leak.
I'm not sure these 3-dollar quick fixes are for guys that can pull their own engines out or even have a vehicle worth the expense of having a professional do it... These are usually only there to prolong the inevitable on high-mileage beaters. That being said, Lucas oil treatment (not a "fix") and Sea-foam in the FUEL TANK (not the harsh intake carbon blast) are the only additives I've used over the years... BOTH with phenomenal results on extremely high mileage engines including air-cooled shovel-heads run in extreme temps. The rest of the quick-fix-snake-oils just aren't worth the risk, in my opinion.
Yeah....a simple valve cover. Try that on a 2005 Ford Duratec DOHC V-6. I have oil in the plug wells on Bank 2, cylinders 4 and 5. Cylinder 6 is clean. You can't even see Bank 1 against the firewall. So...intake removal, harnesses all over the place, then, finally the valve covers. For a 16 year old car with 225k miles? The car is in cosmetically perfect condition but that's an awful lot of work. If it could be avoided with a stop leak product that worked I'd definitely give it a shot. On a newer car..... never. I wouldn't even consider it. I've pulled a lot of engines back in the day. All kinds. Swapped engines, did Tune ups. Intakes. Everything. Did a lot of work in my garage for many people. Even if I still had my garage with the hoist. Engine stand, and all my old tools I still would avoid this job for this car. Even considering the awesome condition it's in. Just a royal pain in the ass. Especially without a garage now. But I agree with what you're saying. I never recommended these quick fixes. Especially the radiation stop leaks.
@@RickyPisano I know what you mean, I had to pull the motor out of my car to change the rear main seal a couple years ago. I'd try a good high mileage oil before a stop leak though, especially if you plan on keeping the car. If you use a stop leak you will likely have a bigger leak and/or more leaks than you started with after a year or so.
@@averyalexander2303 Yes... this car never missed an oil change in 15 years. This Ford 500 Limited is almost mint. Not a knick on it. Interior like new. Everything works perfectly. Brand new tires. I KNOW it's still a strong car. I cleaned out the oil in the plug wells on cylinders 4 and 5 on Bank 2. Not that much. Not even touching the coil packs. Plug well on cylinder 6 was clean. Checked all front 3 coil packs on Bank 2 and they were firing strong. Tightened up the valve cover just a bit. So at this point I'm gonna change the plugs in cylinders 4 and 5 and check the plug in cylinder 6. 4 and 5 are probably fouled. If the lean STFT/LTFT readings return to normal on Bank 1 and the misfire stops in Bank 2 I'll leave it at that. Bank 1 might not even be leaking and there are no vacuum leaks. If the readings go south again and the check engine light comes back on then I'll remove the Intake manifold, both valve covers, change all the gaskets intake included, plugs, coil packs, PCV, clean injectors, check the cam retainers, everything I can reach with the intake off and valve covers off. Then I won't have to worry about doing the same job in 6 months if Bank 1 has a problem. Man, I miss my old tools and garage right about now. If I still had them this would be a wrap by now. Thanks for the input. Appreciate it.
That was a big improvement and you didn't even drive the recommended 250 miles yet at the time, when they say the stuff really starts working. I just added this stuff to my vehicle, my front main seal leaks pretty good when driving so if it helps at all I'm happy because to fix it I will have to pull the whole engine and I'm not ready to do that yet! Your description says do not use and mad it sound like it caused a bigger issue, but that looked like a pretty big improvement to me fast.
AVOID BARS PRODUCTS. After having a "check engine" light on for months, I used this in my 2004 Honda Accord along with Bars radiator stop leak. Within DAYS, the engine valves stuck, cracked the pistons (interference engine) and it all seized up. I went from a "check engine light" on to a NO engine situation. Car was totaled. I filed a claim with Bars, but they didn't honor their warranty.
A stop leak isn’t gonna cause valves to get stuck. All it does is swell seals. Granted it can swell valve seals but it would have to be swelled tremendously for it to do that.
What percentage of the problem do you think was your lack of maintenance? You say you drove it for 4 months with a check engine light? Maybe check the code before you continue driving it?
Stop leaks are great for people pushing their older cars a little further but these newer engines requiring a thinner oil like 0w20 would be a bad idea to use it on
This video makes no sense... The thumbnail says DO NOT USE, but it looks like it helped... You cant believe what it did to your engine? What did it do besides make it leak less?
Gasket swellers like this can only do so much. I don’t see this product thickening the viscosity of the oil like Lucas or any other similar additives. A lot of people say Lucas oil stop leak doesn’t work either, but it worked great in my old corvette. Had a rear main leak that left 3-4 drops per night. 4 quarts 5w30 and 1 quart of Lucas. Within 300 miles the oil leak stopped.
I have a steering leak, grabbed some Lucas in hopes of slowing or out righy stopping the leak. Some people warning me that stop leaks can gunk up the system and make it a bitch for the mechanic who repairs the issue... is this a legitimate concern for a layman such as myself who doesnt want go through a couple litres of steering fluid before getting it to a mechanic?
I have an oil leak, but my question is should I put the bars leaking now, or do an oil change first and then put it in afterwards, my oil looks pretty decent and not quite ready for an oil change yet?
Will it work on V-6 valve covers. I've got oil in a couple of plug wells on Bank 2 cylinders 4 and 5. Cylinder 6 was fine. Can't even see Bank 1 or the coil packs there. I hate to pull the intake and both valve covers on a car with 225k miles. The car is in perfect condition otherwise. Just a royal pain the way these sideways V-6's are designed. Anyone have any luck with this problem?
I’m a little confused. The video says “do not use”, you call it snake oil, give it a thumbs down at the beginning of the video, then show that it actually works. So which is it?
Actually not all. Seals actually become hard over time and deform and eventually become brittle that leads to complete failure. Some of these products contain chlorine, which causes the seal to swell. Chlorine is harmful to engines. Others, like Omega products actually contain chemicals which causes the seal to soften and helps the seal to seal better. Some high mileage oils also contain these same seal softening chemicals to revive seals. Valvoline high mileage is a perfect example and has API and many different motor manufacturers approvals as well. One of my friends had exhausted all his avenues with seals leaking on his automatic transmission. I offered a tin of Omega seal reviver which he refused at first as he was worried it would block up his transmission. Eventually in desperation he tried it. Never had a problem with it again. He sold that car due to engine failure years later.
@@johnwagner4559 Valvoline HM is an excellent oil and contains seal reviving additives. It has one awards too. This product also contains high zinc additives that reduces engine wear. Your normal engine oils have had zinc additives reduced from previous years.
I have a 07 Kia Sorento it has an oil leak in the value cover gaskets can anybody recommend a good solution I'm on a budget here I know it's always better to fix but is it expensive should I just get a solution 😬
I have a 07 Kia Sorento it has an oil leak in the value cover gaskets can anybody recommend a good solution I'm on a budget here I know it's always better to fix but is it expensive should I just get a solution 😬
Bars leak 1040 failed to stop my pan gasket leak on my 98 caravan 2.4. After 250 miles and 2 weeks. I can get a refund if I mail receipt and bar code and wait up to two months. Bill
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
What stop leaks have you tried and did they work?
Replacing the actual seal that's faulty. Do not bother with this kind of stuff unless you drive a beater.
I was pouring oil out of either the front main seal or the lower Timing chain cover on my POS VW 2.0t. Lost 7-8 quarts of oil during a trip. It was a Sunday and no shops in the area were open. Guy at autozone said he never had a stop leak that worked.. I agreed but had no choice but to pick one. The blue devil rms stop leak was what I went with and I was shocked the next morning when I looked under the car and "not a single drop of oil" on the concrete. I'm sure it is not a long term fix, but absolutely incredible results from a non-believer of stop leak fluids.
@@hed_sh0tz__638 How is the car now?
@@mikebrigandi_ Still doesn't leak at all. But the car took a poop. I was one of the unlucky people that didn't know the timing chain tensioner wasn't updated when they did the recall. About to do put a new head and valves in it.. 🙄
I am looking to find out what is the BEST STOP LEAK PRODUCT FOR A COOLING SYSTEM ON A (2009 DODGE CARAVAN) WITH THE LEAK BEING LOCATED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF RADIATOR ABOUT 80% UP THE SIDE TOWARDS THE TOP CLOSE TO THE TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES... AND LEAKS AFTER I DRIVE THE VEHICLE FOR 10+ MINUTES AND THE ENGINE HEATS UP AND PRESSURE BUILDS UP AND THEN MAYBE A CUP OR TWO OF COOLANT LEAKS OUT!!! SO I WOULD LIKE TO FIND OUT WHICH ONE OF THE RADIATOR SEALANTS REALLY WORKS THE BEST FOR "LARGER" LEAKS... ALSO WHILE NOT CAUSING ANY DAMAGE TO ANYTHING ELSE ETC!?!?!??? IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME WITH THIS IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED BY ME AND THE ENTIRE FAMILY AS WE DESPERATELY RELY ON THE VEHICLE!!!! THANK YOU TO ANYONE THAT TAKES THE TIME TO SHARE ANY SUGGESTIONS ABOUT WHICH ONE OF THE LONG LINES OF SEALANT PRODUCTS WILL WORK THE BEST FOR MY SITUATION!!! THANK YOU
The instructions clearly say most leaks resolve themselves after 250 miles or 3 days, so you should give an update when the 3 days is up. In my case I had a leak that was annoying as hell, and one bottle of this absolutely corrected it for me. So far so good for me.
You think itll work for a rear main seal ? Cause i have a semi minor leak there and i really dont wanna have to pull it apart
@@gx2tit will work.
@@gx2t my crankshaft pulley seal was leaking & I put a different bottle of stop leak & it honestly worked
Yes, I’ve used Bar’s and Lucas with great results!
Used this for a RMS on my 04 grand cherokee with 227k. No issues since 4k miles later.
Give an update after the 200 miles they reccomended & let us know if there is even less oil on the sheet.
I put it in my transmission about three weeks ago, and so far, so good. The freakin' thing still shifts a little rough between 1st and 2nd gear, but I honestly have to say it drives a bit better now than it did before I added the Bar's Stop Leak.
At this point, I've put about 500 miles on it. I'll try to remember to keep this comment updated.
Hows she runnin?
Still running well my friend?
Bought my 06 sierra with 80k miles in 2018, got my trans fluid changed at 85k and it started slipping while driving home lol I put in barsleaks trans super fix or the dual formula and it has only slipped one time at 100k miles, i have 140k now. Now I'm gonna try the rear main leak fix
@@jkyergyboy2671do u step on it often ?
Hows she runnin?
Worked on my Avalon 255000 miles no leaks 4months run great !
👍👍👍
Liked the video, but I'm not sure why the "I can't believe . . . ," "do not use" and thumbs down. Seems like the product did what you'd expect, considering this was more than a "minor" leak, as indicated on the label. At least it slowed it down to where you won't have to keep adding as much oil to it--a good stopgap (no pun intended) until you get the thing repaired.
It's how you lure people for a view. Glad I took the time to challenge this, about to try it out
A clean engine compartment makes for a happy car!
Wow this was a really good video. I know there’s no shortcut for a really good mechanic. But some of us specially in this economy are kind of broke. So it’s good to see a product do what it says
I'm very confused by the description of the video. In the description you say not to use it, but in the video it only looks like an improvement...?
Yeah, doesn't make sense.....
True.
Literally what I was thinking
It got you interested didn’t it?
Probably drunk.
Thanks for the review. The oil look really thin from the start. I think it did a great job for an oil that appeared to had lost its viscosity.
I saw that too, very thin looking oil to start with.
I used Bar. It worked for about a week or so. Next I think I'll try Lucas.
This could be residue oil left over from the day before test
this seems to have worked fine? whats the issue?
That's surprising for a 1 hour drive cycle with it. How did the leak do after more driving?
I've used the bars pelletized stop leak on my my wifes 2012 honda civic. But keep in mind try to use new antifreeze. Her car had about 90,000 miles when I changed the antifreeze and then poured in the PELLETIZED bars stop leak. Her car has never leaked radiator fluid since.
Same for my vintage AUDI 4000. . . GREAT stuff anyway , , ,
I used this on my Captiva that has an oil leak. After 24 hours the leak was significantly reduced and after 48 hours almost no leak anymore.
So you pour the whole thing ?
@@lilctv40 yes
@@lilctv40 yes. The whole bottle.
Car still alive? Lol
@@thered4048 no idea. sold it not long after I used stop leak. lol!
I've only ever used bars radiator leak. It's a great product. It lubricates the water pump and keeps the water 100 per cent clean.
THIS STUFF DOES WORK ! !!!!!
I used Bars radiator stop leak. And it sealed a freeze plug leak I could not get at👏🤙
I've watched a few of these stop leak videos and I don't understand why folks aren't using high mileage oil. Its designed to leak less?
Worked well in the last 2005 kia Rio Cinco on the road
I just got an oil change but can I still put that sealer in ? Or would that overflow it and mess up my engine
Tha is what I was wondering, did you ever figure it out?
I would drain a little oil out first. But if it's leaking bad enough to warrant stop leak you're probably low anyway.
@@jusgarrison24 thank you for the help man
I would like to know who is lying down there all night to stop the paper from flying away? Good info Nate thanks.
haha, my first thought exactly
Lol
KOz1caa 😂
?...lol well a rock 🤣😂🤣😂
Bar's makes good stop leak products. Ive used it in the crankcase and the radiator (for the head gasket). Great results
👍👍👍 same results on my AUDI . . .
So it goes where the oil is put in right?
The description says do not use but the video shows that it works what did I miss?
Ikr 😒
Does it work...from what i seen yeah...but it honestly is not good an can cause other problems. If you love the car replace seal...if you dont use stop leak.
This stuff expands the seals swells them up. Eventaully you WILL run into a worse problem
And what was it like after 200 miles or three days?
Do you add another bottle after each oil change?
I drank a bottle and it cured my incontinence.
Hilarius buddy
You misspelled "retardation"
@@endermanofficial 🤣🤣
I drank a bottle and I haven't had to take a leak yet. It works
I drank it to cure premature "leaks" ... Does the job as well!
did you overfill the crank case? it doesn't say in the instructions... but it is common sense... you have to make sure your oil level isn't too high before you put that in!!!!
Witch is the best AT 205. Bars. Or Lucas stop leak
Why does the thumbnail say do not use
"We abowt to fiyannd owt" Love it
Is it bad for the engine over time?
Yes
I'm confused AF... The description says "DO NOT USE" "I Cant believe what it did to my engine" and yet it did stop a lot of the leak and seemed to work near perfectly?
Just my opinion: if people can't tell an improvement without the "side by side" comparison, they shouldn't attempt to fix ANYTHING. ;) Thanks for the review.
People are confused because the video says it works but the description says it DOES NOT work,
But then people like you that can't read shouldn't have an opinion on anything
@@scottbates100 🙌🏼🤣
More driving for real result......200 miles it says.
1 hour 2hours not enough miles but it showed big improvement.
Thanks.
3.years later first time seeing November 23 2023
Can I spray this to a rubber bushings?
It will turn bushings into sponge mess and they may actually fall out
I’m just looking for something to stop my wife’s grand Cherokee from leaking a few drops on the garage floor until we get her a new one next month. I’m pretty sure it’s the rear main seal but I’m done working on this car I need something easy
how come the oil had not soaked into the paper
At least it made an improvement. Good review 😎👍
I guess my question is did you powerwash the underside of the car before you used the stop leak? If you didn't the oil on the paper could be from before.
Would these be safe to used on rotary engine
I'm confused "don't use it" but it works?
I had a small radiator leak and used the radiator product. It ruined my radiator and resulted in me having to replace the radiator all together. It was a terrible decision to trust the Stop Leak.
I used "k seal"for a broken heater matrix and was superb, never had another problem, was an orange liquid with a kind of thin wire stuff in it, must of done at least 40k with no issues
You probably would have had to replace it anyway. What did actually have to lose?
@@dfinch218 true, people act like they used it on a perfect vehicle. They probably are the same people who don’t change their oil for 5-6 years too
It’s cause you have to flush it out after too and most people never do that
I had a small leak at bottom of radiator core and fixed it with 2 Tablespoons of Barr's Stop Leak for radiator. I was afraid of using the whole bottle as recommended.
Why don't they tell you to drain and refresh the water/antifreeze after applying a whole bottle to fix the leak?
You didn't even follow the instructions and the title made the product sound like it ruined the engine
Hi it may take more time to stop the leaks. And you were not sure where your leak was located. Any followup news? Thank you. Bill.
did u change the oil before adding or jus add the stop leak, just asking because thats what ive seen on a few forums,, says to drain then add the stop leak then refill like a normal oil change,, problem is for it to work effectively , has to be done at EVERY OIL CHANGE, or drop the transmission and replace the entire seal,, i guess we will see,, cuz im having the same issue on my Jeep
in my 2000 Corolla that is burning oil, I tried 1 container (11 oz.) and the improvement was dramatic... Burning oil from valve seal/guide brittleness at 300K miles and NOT 3rd ring down in each piston ...
Whys ur video say do not use when it worked??😊
I am using bars leak 1040 right now. A pan or main seal leak on 98 2.4l caravan. A small leak is leaking less! 5 days. 130 miles. So far. The bars leak tech said more driving is needed . we will see. Bill
2002 2.2l rear main seal pissing oil. Fresh oil change with 1 bottle and100miles later she’s as dry as can be. Fingers crossed she lasts another 10 years
You could have cleaned the area with break cleaner before driving the second time to see the difference.. because those drops could be from the remainder fluid that was already outside
a ride on the highway for about 1 hour... it says you have to drive at least 150 to 200 miles for it to work.
Do you have multiple of those small radiators and use new product in new radiator... Or did you run multiple products in one radiator? Have you ever looked inside the radiator to see if it filled it with gunk?
really enjoying your videos hope you make it big
I am grateful for your support.
What are the ingredients inside the liquid?
I used copper Barr’s on radiator leak 3 years ago not even a drop leakef
Bars leak is for small leaks not for half of quater leaks
I need to know if ANYTHING will stop a valve cover leak with oil going into plug wells 4 and 5 on my Duratec DOHC V-6 engine.
New valve cover gasket. Cheap and easy fix. Save lot of dollars on plugs and engine damage.
@@mattdeshane2435 Yep... that's what I'm gonna do. Not so easy on this V-6 though.
Can it work on rattling chain tensioner
Fun fact in my country we have that exact product but it'd rislone branded same bottle same label
is not mileage to count but HOW LONG additive covers all rubber seals . you need at least a week to see some results if seals didn’t go behind additive capabilities to softening and expand rubber
Nate, have you tested the new 0w-16 oils for GDI yet? Combined with a bottle of restore. By far the quietest my engine has ever been.
That is good only for new engines and cold weather starts. Too thin if not.
Iam Your Newest Subscriber I Just Got A 1999 Chevy Astro Van with 325k Miles It Has A Rear Main Seal Leak The Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer Didn't Work
So in the thumbnail and description you say do not use, yet your video seems to say otherwise....
Thanks for the video
Love the dramatic music with the laid back southern accent lol. I'm subscribing
Hi Nate love your videos. Very interesting to see the results of this test. I saw another person comment about AT-205 reseal and would love to see a video about that as well. Keep up the great work man!! 👍
Thanks for your time and suggestion i will do just that.
Been wanting to try atp205 but unavailable 😐
Atp205 worked for both of my cars with small oil leaks. Too bad I haven't seen any sold either due to supply chain problems.
Does Bar's Leaks One Seal Stop Leak have the same active ingredient as AT-205 and Blue Devil Power Steering Stop Leak? Diethyl glycol monoethyl ether.
Thanks for the video and the info
My opinion on stop leaks is that you are way better off correctly fixing the leak if at all possible. I don't like the idea of stop leaks because they affect all the seals in the system and because they will reduce the oil's lubricity and change its viscosity, even if only slightly. An engine may not care much about this, but it could kill an automatic transmission. Think about it- Someone has a leaking valve cover gasket, so they add a stop leak to fix it. The stop leak also swells the cam seals as well as the crank seals and all the other seals and they wear into that position. When they start to relax over time or if someone changes the oil and doesn't add the stop leak again, you just created an expensive leak you didn't have before. I have never used an oil stop leak before but from what I have seen and heard from people who have used them, any improvements are usually very temporary and sometimes when the leak returns it leaks worse than it did before. If someone has a leaking rear main seal on an old beater that they plan to dump soon maybe give it a try. But if you care about your vehicle or if the fix is simple like a leaking valve cover gasket or something, my advice is to just fix the leak correctly and be done with it. I feel strongly enough about that that when my rear main seal went bad I spent the day pulling the engine out to replace it instead of trying to use a stop leak.
Yeah i agree with much of this thanks for the information.
I'm not sure these 3-dollar quick fixes are for guys that can pull their own engines out or even have a vehicle worth the expense of having a professional do it... These are usually only there to prolong the inevitable on high-mileage beaters.
That being said, Lucas oil treatment (not a "fix") and Sea-foam in the FUEL TANK (not the harsh intake carbon blast) are the only additives I've used over the years... BOTH with phenomenal results on extremely high mileage engines including air-cooled shovel-heads run in extreme temps. The rest of the quick-fix-snake-oils just aren't worth the risk, in my opinion.
Yeah....a simple valve cover. Try that on a 2005 Ford Duratec DOHC V-6. I have oil in the plug wells on Bank 2, cylinders 4 and 5. Cylinder 6 is clean. You can't even see Bank 1 against the firewall. So...intake removal, harnesses all over the place, then, finally the valve covers. For a 16 year old car with 225k miles? The car is in cosmetically perfect condition but that's an awful lot of work. If it could be avoided with a stop leak product that worked I'd definitely give it a shot. On a newer car..... never. I wouldn't even consider it. I've pulled a lot of engines back in the day. All kinds. Swapped engines, did Tune ups. Intakes. Everything. Did a lot of work in my garage for many people. Even if I still had my garage with the hoist. Engine stand, and all my old tools I still would avoid this job for this car. Even considering the awesome condition it's in. Just a royal pain in the ass. Especially without a garage now. But I agree with what you're saying. I never recommended these quick fixes. Especially the radiation stop leaks.
@@RickyPisano I know what you mean, I had to pull the motor out of my car to change the rear main seal a couple years ago. I'd try a good high mileage oil before a stop leak though, especially if you plan on keeping the car. If you use a stop leak you will likely have a bigger leak and/or more leaks than you started with after a year or so.
@@averyalexander2303 Yes... this car never missed an oil change in 15 years. This Ford 500 Limited is almost mint. Not a knick on it. Interior like new. Everything works perfectly. Brand new tires. I KNOW it's still a strong car. I cleaned out the oil in the plug wells on cylinders 4 and 5 on Bank 2. Not that much. Not even touching the coil packs. Plug well on cylinder 6 was clean. Checked all front 3 coil packs on Bank 2 and they were firing strong. Tightened up the valve cover just a bit. So at this point I'm gonna change the plugs in cylinders 4 and 5 and check the plug in cylinder 6. 4 and 5 are probably fouled. If the lean STFT/LTFT readings return to normal on Bank 1 and the misfire stops in Bank 2 I'll leave it at that. Bank 1 might not even be leaking and there are no vacuum leaks. If the readings go south again and the check engine light comes back on then I'll remove the Intake manifold, both valve covers, change all the gaskets intake included, plugs, coil packs, PCV, clean injectors, check the cam retainers, everything I can reach with the intake off and valve covers off. Then I won't have to worry about doing the same job in 6 months if Bank 1 has a problem. Man, I miss my old tools and garage right about now. If I still had them this would be a wrap by now. Thanks for the input. Appreciate it.
Can I use this even if I have oil in my car
Good info
And what did it do to your engine that you could not believe ?
That was a big improvement and you didn't even drive the recommended 250 miles yet at the time, when they say the stuff really starts working. I just added this stuff to my vehicle, my front main seal leaks pretty good when driving so if it helps at all I'm happy because to fix it I will have to pull the whole engine and I'm not ready to do that yet! Your description says do not use and mad it sound like it caused a bigger issue, but that looked like a pretty big improvement to me fast.
Did it fit yours?
2 part mix of bars stop leak did not work on my rear main seal. It actually made it worse. Not trying that stunt again
AVOID BARS PRODUCTS. After having a "check engine" light on for months, I used this in my 2004 Honda Accord along with Bars radiator stop leak. Within DAYS, the engine valves stuck, cracked the pistons (interference engine) and it all seized up. I went from a "check engine light" on to a NO engine situation. Car was totaled. I filed a claim with Bars, but they didn't honor their warranty.
A stop leak isn’t gonna cause valves to get stuck. All it does is swell seals. Granted it can swell valve seals but it would have to be swelled tremendously for it to do that.
@@charliethiede3992 valve seal?
@@ebutuoycensorship8012 to prevent oil flowing past valves
@@charliethiede3992 thanks. I gotcha . :)
What percentage of the problem do you think was your lack of maintenance? You say you drove it for 4 months with a check engine light? Maybe check the code before you continue driving it?
I put some stop leak in my car i am from Knoxville TN i use today so i check it and see
Stop leaks are great for people pushing their older cars a little further but these newer engines requiring a thinner oil like 0w20 would be a bad idea to use it on
This video makes no sense... The thumbnail says DO NOT USE, but it looks like it helped... You cant believe what it did to your engine? What did it do besides make it leak less?
Should change the oil, then add the bars......... clean oil...
Try blue devil oil stop leak
Bars copper worked 2 times out of 3 for me
I tried the copper also in a previous video and thanks for helping us with your experience.
Are you related to Chrisfix?
Thanks Nate I just subscribed 🐱 I have a 98 Dodge caravan 👑
What if you can't drive the vehicle for an hour ?
Gasket swellers like this can only do so much. I don’t see this product thickening the viscosity of the oil like Lucas or any other similar additives.
A lot of people say Lucas oil stop leak doesn’t work either, but it worked great in my old corvette. Had a rear main leak that left 3-4 drops per night. 4 quarts 5w30 and 1 quart of Lucas. Within 300 miles the oil leak stopped.
I have a steering leak, grabbed some Lucas in hopes of slowing or out righy stopping the leak. Some people warning me that stop leaks can gunk up the system and make it a bitch for the mechanic who repairs the issue... is this a legitimate concern for a layman such as myself who doesnt want go through a couple litres of steering fluid before getting it to a mechanic?
I have an oil leak, but my question is should I put the bars leaking now, or do an oil change first and then put it in afterwards, my oil looks pretty decent and not quite ready for an oil change yet?
Either way works but drive the car for a couple days, 1 hr is not enough
So a second additive Looks like it will work
I am a retire auto tech. After 40 years I have found this to work best.
ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leak
Thats great news for those in need thanks.
Couldn't agree more. ATP reseal is the real deal. Turns a plastic spray bottle into bubblegum.
Will it work on V-6 valve covers. I've got oil in a couple of plug wells on Bank 2 cylinders 4 and 5. Cylinder 6 was fine. Can't even see Bank 1 or the coil packs there. I hate to pull the intake and both valve covers on a car with 225k miles. The car is in perfect condition otherwise. Just a royal pain the way these sideways V-6's are designed. Anyone have any luck with this problem?
A country singer and a auto tech! Damn Willy, you good boy!!! Lol
I’m a little confused. The video says “do not use”, you call it snake oil, give it a thumbs down at the beginning of the video, then show that it actually works. So which is it?
Right I’ve called him out on his ass many times.
I have Nothing against the guy, only it’s not his fault he’s a hillbilly. 🤷♂️
It seems to me that it works
He’s trolling to get views it works
If it works then why does it say! Do not use!
That couldve been the oil that was still on. The metal that havent leaked off completely but idk
Just replace gaskets. All these things gunk up engine, eventually.
Actually not all. Seals actually become hard over time and deform and eventually become brittle that leads to complete failure. Some of these products contain chlorine, which causes the seal to swell. Chlorine is harmful to engines. Others, like Omega products actually contain chemicals which causes the seal to soften and helps the seal to seal better. Some high mileage oils also contain these same seal softening chemicals to revive seals. Valvoline high mileage is a perfect example and has API and many different motor manufacturers approvals as well. One of my friends had exhausted all his avenues with seals leaking on his automatic transmission. I offered a tin of Omega seal reviver which he refused at first as he was worried it would block up his transmission. Eventually in desperation he tried it. Never had a problem with it again. He sold that car due to engine failure years later.
@@pieterjones5425 Valvoline hm is what I've used for years and never a problem.
@@johnwagner4559 Valvoline HM is an excellent oil and contains seal reviving additives. It has one awards too. This product also contains high zinc additives that reduces engine wear. Your normal engine oils have had zinc additives reduced from previous years.
I have a 07 Kia Sorento it has an oil leak in the value cover gaskets can anybody recommend a good solution I'm on a budget here I know it's always better to fix but is it expensive should I just get a solution 😬
I have a 07 Kia Sorento it has an oil leak in the value cover gaskets can anybody recommend a good solution I'm on a budget here I know it's always better to fix but is it expensive should I just get a solution 😬
Why wouldn't you just change your valve cover gasket....?
Bars leak 1040 failed to stop my pan gasket leak on my 98 caravan 2.4. After 250 miles and 2 weeks. I can get a refund if I mail receipt and bar code and wait up to two months. Bill
why does your video not match the description