It's unreal how these OMC engines are still so common. Honestly, it's all I use on my boats. You sir are one of my go-to people for OMC knowledge. So, I thank you.
Brandon, I appreciate your videos so much. They have helped me tremendously in servicing my 1995 Johnson 88 SPL. I haven't watched all of your videos yet, but watching this one today tells me that I need to. Even though this is not the same motor, your demonstration of using the Joe Reeves timing method and your stamp of confidence were very helpful. I've been trying to figure out why my motor runs rough at low RPM and idle only after it's up to normal temp. Thanks to you and the float gauge I ordered from you, I'm at least confident that my float levels and timing are not the issue. Thanks so much for your videos!
Needed a new exhaust gasket for my 1959 Johnson 35 about 10 years back. Man, it was almost impossible. Can't believe you can still get those for this engine.
A guy can cut down a standard prop to make a test wheel or load wheel. I took a damaged one cut it down little over 1/2. Works great and the outboard can crank 5500 to check timing and check WOT troubleshooting
As to respect for your clients, fixing their motors right sure fills the bill. Bravo ! As to carb templates, I find they delete guessing out of the fixing equation. Put my name on the list for one of those. Regards !
I like your commentary. I wanna rebuild my carburetors and by watching your videos I’m confident in doing it. Just don’t have a that float measuring tool
For what it's worth.... Genuine Tygon tubing (the yellow stuff) lasts in lawn equipment (weedeaters) much longer than rubber fuel line, particularly with ethanol in the fuel.
Another good video. Very uncommon for a waterpump to go like that? I really dislike it when people use those plastic hoses. There is nitrile rubber available in the smaller sizes as well, but many people go the cheap route and continue to buy the plastic stuff, to see that fuel is getting through.
I bought a carb rebuild kit off Amazon for a 1978 Johnson 85, a week later the motor died. Turns out the gaskets were not fuel tolerant and disintegrated. Put the old ones back in, a week later it died again. Both floats were full of gas. Unbelievable.
I have a 1974 evinrude 50hp that needs the timing set properly when I got it every thing was screwed up I REALLY need to invest in a good timing light, please let us know if your going to be sellin them gauges!!!
without the exhaust seals, the midsection cannot fill up and make a "wall of water" for the exhaust, and it will run warm. aka on the verge of overheating. if you dont see water coming out the relief holes when t stat opens, the exhaust upper seal is pinched or torn. seen it a million times.
Hey Brandon, a question for you - as these 70s/80s motors had cast alloy carb bodies and are 40-50 years old, are you seeing any wear in and around the throttle shafts causing issues? In my experience, whilst they are plated brass rods inside cast alloy bodies (soft metal on soft metal), there are no bushings, so they tend to wear and elongate/enlarge where the shafts pass through the body (more so on the side with the return spring and more so the carb which has to deal with the forward push of the throttle cam plate - middle in a triple, bottom on a two cylinder). What I have found is that this wear allows air to bleed in and bypass the idle/mid carb circuits, which these carbs are very sensitive to. The impact presents firstly as a hesitation/bogging problem off idle (the one that is cleared by pushing in the key choke and every single time the question is asked online, the response is to religiously clean carbs, replace fuel lines, pumps, hoses, etc until the problem goes away, which in my opinion is not a wrong answer but doesn't always fix the problem). When the wear is really pronounced, it causes erratic idle issues, which can be tuned out somewhat if you have the adjustable low speed air bleed needles, but difficult if they are fixed jets/orifices, folks end up playing with the idle/base advance. It is easy to diagnose, run the engine idle and just push the throttle shafts up/down and back/forth and it will make the engine hesitate. I've also sprayed Aerostart (ether) at the shaft ends and made the engine revs increase but carb cleaner/WD40 etc can be used to see if air is being sucked in. The other tell is that where the engine is tuned up and idles nicely, only to lose the tune quickly when the engine is put back into service or into gear. I’ve have temporarily fixed by packing the shafts with grease (which acts as a seal), the quick fix was to use JB weld to refill and re-drill, but the permanent was to use 1/4" Teflon shoulder bushes which require the shafts to be drilled oversize and have about 15 thou taken off the surface to compensate for the depth of the shoulder of the bush. Be keen to hear of your experiences with these matters as it is a common problem in other engines (similar era British sports cars are a good example) but I have rarely heard of anyone addressing the issue with outboards.
I hear of this on the 40-60 HPs most often (but surprisingly, not on the 3 cylinder engines, even though they use the same carbs, just have one additional) On that minty 70's 70 HP, I looked at the throttle play, and to my shock there was throttle play! That engine had 40 hours on it, there should have been no throttle play, but there was; Just as much as my high hour 1979 50 HP. Is it a concern? Yes. Is there anything we can do to fix it? No, but kind of. You can adjust the idle jet to compensate or pack it with grease (like I did on my Ditch-Which) but, as it was there from the factory on the older engines, it may not be cause for too much concern as hopefully it designed for such, as it isn't present on newer engines. You can't remove the throttle shafts. The threads are distorted, making the screws a one-way situation. Screws will break, leading to needing a replacement non-available throttle shaft. Sadly, grease or leaving it alone may be the best and only option.
@BrandonsGarage I have always managed to remove the grub screws - well all but one time, but it was a carb that I had previously removed the grub screws and reassembled with Loctite (it sheared off) so it is possible, but I understand the reluctance. The challenge with tuning around the issue is that not all carbs have an adjustable idle jet and besides, to make the low speed circuit work you need to open up the low jet so more air can flow to grab more fuel to compensate for the original air leak, so idle speed becomes an issue. Of course you can compensate by a couple of less degrees base timing but you end up with an engine running a couple of degrees less base timing on part throttle.
@@astrawally8448 the throttle butterflies are calibrated and jetted to match from factory. i have rarely seen a throttle butterfly have so much play it effects the idle.
The timing plate under the flywheel seems stiff. Should be a lot smoother. I would remove the flywheel, and timing plate and plastic bearing and clean from old grease and debris and lube with light oil. It should be very smooth and very easy to move forward and backward. 45 year tech here.
mine was brand new whole kit put it in ran in driveway 5 min it stopped pumping the brass let lose from the rubber was just spinning inside it. cant get replaced because i put it in last fall never tested it till spring,
I discovered an aftermarket power pack on my Johnson 70 today. Should be fine since it's a Sierra, but I'm not a fan of aftermarket parts unless they're upgrades. Water pump is one of the worst parts to go aftermarket with.
Brandon is that the same timing method that can be used on the V4's ? I am familiar with with Joe Reed and I have used that method for timing on many.....many V4's. Never gave it a thought to use it on the smaller engines......DUH!!
RE: the whole "you're making fun of your customers" thing. You and Watch Wes Work have a similar issue. You're not making "fun" of anything. You're pointing out the truth of what you see.
@@MrEroz5 cant hurt to check WOT if it looks like someone messed with it, but not usually of concern. premium fuel only and less than 30 days old is the biggest concern, along with a full carb service of course. cheers.
@@ct1762 yes it looks the old owner messed with it i have already made the carburetors serviced new spark plugs did link and sink I just wanted to do check the timing since I don’t have the special wheel to do so and found out the joe reeves way….. see the motor starts but just to be on the safe side don’t want to get stranded in the middle of the lake 🤣
Yes! Bottom coil fired tip and top fired bottom. I didn't notice it and installed the plug wires how they should have been installed. I just swapped the wires to eliminate the confusion.
Oh god the greys oh you couldnt pay me to use them using Grey's have 50 50 chance of sausage casing collapsing or chipping off and going In carb lol hey they can say what ever it facts I was just at point you were saying they may be mad for saying no good gas lines we call it how it is for me and you working on motors all day thwy would understand if they did also
1992 nissan ob 90 hp motor needs a coil plate assembly replacement (stator ) replaced I have the parts..it took an act of god to find them@@BrandonsGarage
You'd have to have a very good argument to disagree with anything Joe Reeves wrote. Incidentally, he inspired me to always use my real name when I write anything. If I wrote it, I should take personal responsibility for what I wrote.
Some time ago I decided to look up his method on TH-cam; a lot of others show how to do it, but none (or none I saw) gives him the credit he deserves. That article he wrote gave everyone the ability to correctly time their own motors. Without it, we would have all been screwed. Is the best piece of information out there.
It's unreal how these OMC engines are still so common. Honestly, it's all I use on my boats. You sir are one of my go-to people for OMC knowledge. So, I thank you.
Brandon, I appreciate your videos so much. They have helped me tremendously in servicing my 1995 Johnson 88 SPL. I haven't watched all of your videos yet, but watching this one today tells me that I need to. Even though this is not the same motor, your demonstration of using the Joe Reeves timing method and your stamp of confidence were very helpful. I've been trying to figure out why my motor runs rough at low RPM and idle only after it's up to normal temp. Thanks to you and the float gauge I ordered from you, I'm at least confident that my float levels and timing are not the issue. Thanks so much for your videos!
Sometimes the truth hurts - but I really LOVE how you do what you do and explain what's what
To me it seems like a lot of small priced parts, or spending a bit more for OEM where needed would save a huge amount of headache.
This video teaches a lot - in multiple ways. Thank you.
Needed a new exhaust gasket for my 1959 Johnson 35 about 10 years back. Man, it was almost impossible. Can't believe you can still get those for this engine.
Brandon, Great job. The video contents are so insightful.
Your 🎉videos are the best. I think you're respectful to owners
I was expecting a Mythbusters style "there's your problem" when you pulled that pump housing off and the impeller sprayed everywhere. 😂
A guy can cut down a standard prop to make a test wheel or load wheel. I took a damaged one cut it down little over 1/2. Works great and the outboard can crank 5500 to check timing and check WOT troubleshooting
Pretty well maintained, clean. Not much corrosion under the hood. 😅
Most of them criticizing can't do jack shit themselves! Your method works so it's perfectly fine.
As to respect for your clients, fixing their motors right sure fills the bill. Bravo ! As to carb templates, I find they delete guessing out of the fixing equation. Put my name on the list for one of those. Regards !
another great job, thank you
Thanks for another awesome video.
Good to know on the clear i have im have to change my carb hoses back to black
I like your commentary. I wanna rebuild my carburetors and by watching your videos I’m confident in doing it. Just don’t have a that float measuring tool
Yeah, I should have some available next week. You can eyeball it?
Hey Brandon, Try looking up applying Dry Molly Lube or Cermark before engraving with the laser on metal
Great job as always 👍
I would definitely like to have a guage when you get em finished.
For what it's worth.... Genuine Tygon tubing (the yellow stuff) lasts in lawn equipment (weedeaters) much longer than rubber fuel line, particularly with ethanol in the fuel.
Another good video. Very uncommon for a waterpump to go like that? I really dislike it when people use those plastic hoses. There is nitrile rubber available in the smaller sizes as well, but many people go the cheap route and continue to buy the plastic stuff, to see that fuel is getting through.
I bought a carb rebuild kit off Amazon for a 1978 Johnson 85, a week later the motor died. Turns out the gaskets were not fuel tolerant and disintegrated. Put the old ones back in, a week later it died again. Both floats were full of gas. Unbelievable.
most just need a bowl gasket anyway. newer style makes sense to get the complete kit because of idle circuit gasket.
I have a 1974 evinrude 50hp that needs the timing set properly when I got it every thing was screwed up I REALLY need to invest in a good timing light, please let us know if your going to be sellin them gauges!!!
without the exhaust seals, the midsection cannot fill up and make a "wall of water" for the exhaust, and it will run warm. aka on the verge of overheating. if you dont see water coming out the relief holes when t stat opens, the exhaust upper seal is pinched or torn. seen it a million times.
"Almost kinda like that's how science works" FTW!
I put a brand new Amazon pump assembly, on my 9.9 it worked for less than 5 minutes, never again..
They were lucky little bits of that impeller didn’t go up the tube……..
Hey Brandon, a question for you - as these 70s/80s motors had cast alloy carb bodies and are 40-50 years old, are you seeing any wear in and around the throttle shafts causing issues?
In my experience, whilst they are plated brass rods inside cast alloy bodies (soft metal on soft metal), there are no bushings, so they tend to wear and elongate/enlarge where the shafts pass through the body (more so on the side with the return spring and more so the carb which has to deal with the forward push of the throttle cam plate - middle in a triple, bottom on a two cylinder).
What I have found is that this wear allows air to bleed in and bypass the idle/mid carb circuits, which these carbs are very sensitive to. The impact presents firstly as a hesitation/bogging problem off idle (the one that is cleared by pushing in the key choke and every single time the question is asked online, the response is to religiously clean carbs, replace fuel lines, pumps, hoses, etc until the problem goes away, which in my opinion is not a wrong answer but doesn't always fix the problem).
When the wear is really pronounced, it causes erratic idle issues, which can be tuned out somewhat if you have the adjustable low speed air bleed needles, but difficult if they are fixed jets/orifices, folks end up playing with the idle/base advance.
It is easy to diagnose, run the engine idle and just push the throttle shafts up/down and back/forth and it will make the engine hesitate. I've also sprayed Aerostart (ether) at the shaft ends and made the engine revs increase but carb cleaner/WD40 etc can be used to see if air is being sucked in. The other tell is that where the engine is tuned up and idles nicely, only to lose the tune quickly when the engine is put back into service or into gear.
I’ve have temporarily fixed by packing the shafts with grease (which acts as a seal), the quick fix was to use JB weld to refill and re-drill, but the permanent was to use 1/4" Teflon shoulder bushes which require the shafts to be drilled oversize and have about 15 thou taken off the surface to compensate for the depth of the shoulder of the bush.
Be keen to hear of your experiences with these matters as it is a common problem in other engines (similar era British sports cars are a good example) but I have rarely heard of anyone addressing the issue with outboards.
I hear of this on the 40-60 HPs most often (but surprisingly, not on the 3 cylinder engines, even though they use the same carbs, just have one additional)
On that minty 70's 70 HP, I looked at the throttle play, and to my shock there was throttle play! That engine had 40 hours on it, there should have been no throttle play, but there was; Just as much as my high hour 1979 50 HP.
Is it a concern? Yes.
Is there anything we can do to fix it? No, but kind of.
You can adjust the idle jet to compensate or pack it with grease (like I did on my Ditch-Which) but, as it was there from the factory on the older engines, it may not be cause for too much concern as hopefully it designed for such, as it isn't present on newer engines.
You can't remove the throttle shafts. The threads are distorted, making the screws a one-way situation.
Screws will break, leading to needing a replacement non-available throttle shaft.
Sadly, grease or leaving it alone may be the best and only option.
@BrandonsGarage I have always managed to remove the grub screws - well all but one time, but it was a carb that I had previously removed the grub screws and reassembled with Loctite (it sheared off) so it is possible, but I understand the reluctance.
The challenge with tuning around the issue is that not all carbs have an adjustable idle jet and besides, to make the low speed circuit work you need to open up the low jet so more air can flow to grab more fuel to compensate for the original air leak, so idle speed becomes an issue.
Of course you can compensate by a couple of less degrees base timing but you end up with an engine running a couple of degrees less base timing on part throttle.
@@astrawally8448 the throttle butterflies are calibrated and jetted to match from factory. i have rarely seen a throttle butterfly have so much play it effects the idle.
The timing plate under the flywheel seems stiff. Should be a lot smoother. I would remove the flywheel, and timing plate and plastic bearing and clean from old grease and debris and lube with light oil. It should be very smooth and very easy to move forward and backward. 45 year tech here.
it wasnt the base, it was in the levers themselves.
mine was brand new whole kit put it in ran in driveway 5 min it stopped pumping the brass let lose from the rubber was just spinning inside it. cant get replaced because i put it in last fall never tested it till spring,
OEM kit?
I discovered an aftermarket power pack on my Johnson 70 today. Should be fine since it's a Sierra, but I'm not a fan of aftermarket parts unless they're upgrades. Water pump is one of the worst parts to go aftermarket with.
nothing wrong with sierra! used to make the packs for many suppliers, too.
Yep this has happened to me no more eBay/Amazon China water pump kits.
Brandon is that the same timing method that can be used on the V4's ? I am familiar with with Joe Reed and I have used that method for timing on many.....many V4's. Never gave it a thought to use it on the smaller engines......DUH!!
of course. do it all the time.
I spray paint before I engrave.🙃
Where are you located at?
RE: the whole "you're making fun of your customers" thing. You and Watch Wes Work have a similar issue. You're not making "fun" of anything. You're pointing out the truth of what you see.
I wonder how long OEM parts will be available for older OMC motors?
Not long…. OEM only has to supply parts for a period of 10 years after the last one produced.
Have you thought about etching those gauges?
Have you tried the laser etch spray? Sold by several sellers on Amazon.
Hi there from Brazil!
I want 1.
I whish I knew half of you know about those motors😮
Whoever worked on this engine before you was(and I say this with respect) incompetent.
The top coil is for the bottom cylinder and the bottom cylinder is the top coil?
Yeah! Nice huh?
Damn i have a Amazon kit I was going to install in my 1974 50hp… really contemplated buying oem
Well, history shows me you'll be buying an OEM one anyway. However, one pump option may lead to an expensive tow and catastrophic engine failure.
Merci!
Hay mate.keen on one the carb float plates. Would u send to new Zealand
Of course
@@BrandonsGarage what's best way to contact you
Let us know about the gauge! I'd buy one
Gotta figure out the printing first.
Im looking at your shop you have a corner for every motor hahaha here ill find a place for it l I lol
Hey Brandon just a quick question….. can a joe reeves wot be done on a 1977 75 hp evinrude model 75743s
of course, but why are you adjusting its a set and forget thing.
@@ct1762 just bought the boat and I just want to have it in a good running condition that way I know what’s been done to the motor
@@MrEroz5 cant hurt to check WOT if it looks like someone messed with it, but not usually of concern. premium fuel only and less than 30 days old is the biggest concern, along with a full carb service of course. cheers.
@@ct1762 yes it looks the old owner messed with it i have already made the carburetors serviced new spark plugs did link and sink I just wanted to do check the timing since I don’t have the special wheel to do so and found out the joe reeves way….. see the motor starts but just to be on the safe side don’t want to get stranded in the middle of the lake 🤣
And greatful for your support since I’m an automotive mechanic not an outboard mechanic but seems very much the same principles
nice video, wonder if those love fuel as well as my 90 horse ?
Gosh no, you don't even really have to pay attention to fuel in a 40-60 HP.
glad to know that, it sure loves it@@BrandonsGarage
Can I buy a gauge? Do you have one for both 35hp and 9.9?
They fit a 6 HP to a V6
Probably fits the V8 too, but the gauge predates the V8 engines, and they probably never redesigned it.
👍👍................
Wait, the spark plug wires were crossed, and the coil wires were crossed, so it was actually correct? Lol
Yes! Bottom coil fired tip and top fired bottom. I didn't notice it and installed the plug wires how they should have been installed. I just swapped the wires to eliminate the confusion.
I would like to buy one if you're up for it
Maybe I'll start an etsy store
Oh god the greys oh you couldnt pay me to use them using Grey's have 50 50 chance of sausage casing collapsing or chipping off and going In carb lol hey they can say what ever it facts I was just at point you were saying they may be mad for saying no good gas lines we call it how it is for me and you working on motors all day thwy would understand if they did also
I want a gauge
🇦🇺👍
Hi, looking for an INDEPENDENT marine mechanic in the Fortmohave Bullhead city az area
I'm sure there are some around, what do you need?
1992 nissan ob 90 hp motor needs a coil plate assembly replacement (stator ) replaced I have the parts..it took an act of god to find them@@BrandonsGarage
Just wondering if that is something you can help me with?@@BrandonsGarage
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
You'd have to have a very good argument to disagree with anything Joe Reeves wrote. Incidentally, he inspired me to always use my real name when I write anything. If I wrote it, I should take personal responsibility for what I wrote.
Some time ago I decided to look up his method on TH-cam; a lot of others show how to do it, but none (or none I saw) gives him the credit he deserves. That article he wrote gave everyone the ability to correctly time their own motors. Without it, we would have all been screwed. Is the best piece of information out there.
@@BrandonsGarage For what I knew of him, he genuinely passed his knowledge to anyone who wanted or needed it.