How To Make Fireworks Stars (Chrysanthemum #6)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2020
- In this Mythical Pyro video I make some chrysanthemum #6 stars, and put them into a mine. This video took me a couple days of work so a like would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for watching pyros!
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Thanks for watching mythical pyros! This was a fun video to make.
Hey, very nice video and informative! Fellow pyro here, been doing it for more than a year now. A thing, you may want to get a jet lighter to light stars or mixes, because of the wind resistance, but mainly not to burn your hands or fingers!
Damn, nice channel you've got man!
Wow! Great video. Thanks and well done.
Ooh beautiful sunset
Great channel M.P.
"What is combusting pyros" best way to open a youtube video ever
Where could I find lead media? I am having a hard time finding some to buy online. Would fishing weights work?
Nice video!
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it.
This is a good one I like to add sponge titanium about 20 mesh and break em hard with flash booster in can shells. There great to test custom break charges
Really usefull vedio
Love this stuff. Would adding copper sulfate make them burn green. Add other chemicals for different colors? Can't wait for your next video. There is so much to explore. I am thinking sugar rockets with stars! 😁😮
Thanks for the positive comment. I am not sure about whether adding sulfates to this mixture will make the color change, but surely adding copper sulfate would if anything make it blue, and most likely not green. I can't be sure though, so you will have to research and experiment with it.
What do you want to see in my next video? Give a few ideas, and I might pick one if I think it's good.
@@MythicalPyro I thought at first it would be blue but then changed to green. Anyways I heard awhile ago to get different colors use different metal oxides or something like that. That would make a good video also maybe some vids on making mortars. I like how you experiment and show the results along the way, even the failures. I did stuff as a kid but now I want to step up into the big boys world. Good luck, have some fun, and get going on that next video!!!!!!!!!!
@@silverroxx1021 I should have another video coming eventually, but school takes up a good amount of time, and usually after school is done it's dark. Then on the weekend I find it hard to go work on pyro projects, record them, and edit my work. I definitely will do something either this year, or very early next year. I would post more, but I don't like posting videos I'm not proud of. I only like making content that I think is fairly good. I have been out of pyrotechnics recently, but the amount of comments I'm getting, along with the subscribers coming in, makes me want to get back into it more and make better more interesting content.
@@MythicalPyro I understand. Making a good video is a LOT OF WORK. I have done a couple on another channel I have. My first video: th-cam.com/video/Bl7TPnlM2P0/w-d-xo.html
I just watched it a year later and I cringe 😝
@@MythicalPyro No, without a halogen donor, copper contributes a green rather than blue, but is inefficient. It also sensitizes the powder to accidental ignition -- maybe too much to mill safely -- and copper sulfate has enough water of hydration to inhibit DELIBERATE ignition. It would be hard to get noticeable color by adding anything but zinc to such a charcoal-heavy compo. You can get enough color from copper sulfate to color a fireplace flame, though.
nice stars
Just found your channel. New sub.
Good ignition. No primer needed.
One thing- everything I have read online says the charcoal must be soaked with the potassium nitrate. This suggests to me that the potassium nitrate must be in solution. However in your video I saw that you just added everything into the ball mill... Am I missing something?
Awesome man,stupid question my BP I make I use a size 8 mesh,is that ok for lift and burst,I not doing rice hulls,thanks for the videos
Yes, 8 mesh is pretty much optimal size.
Sir i always watching your videos I like it but sir can you tell me how to made orange star how many percentage of calcium carbonate add in 100 gram bp and if I don't have dextrin can i use cornFlour Or ararute powder
Perefekt
a question from a BEGINNER! do you actually need a ball mill to grind your materials? I mean, can you substitute it anyway to -let's say- a manual grinding? thanks!
You could grind your chemicals separately in a mortar and pestle and then mix them together on a piece of paper or in a bowl. Do not grind your chemicals together unless it is in a ball mill with lead media. This will make stars that will at least work. They won't be too good though, not nearly as good as stars made from milling.
@@MythicalPyro thanks!!!! Which star would you recommend doing for the first time without a mill?
@@afarafar123456789 No problem. If all the chemicals you have are potassium nitrate, charcoal, sulfur, and dextrin, I recommend making the chrysanthemum #6 stars from this video. These are faster burning than a lot of black powder based stars such as willow. This means that you have a better chance of making good stars with this composition without a ball mill. Good luck with it. Have fun and be safe.
@@MythicalPyro hey man, what about glass marbles or glass balls for the milling?
That was very fast drying for what appeared to be over-wet compo. I think you achieved that by using quite a bit of isopropanol. I've gotten away from using alcohols in dextrine-bound stars, so using water wetting alone, I take a lot longer drying charcoal stars even of that size.
Also for a small mine, you're using half the lift powder I've been used to, and I think you're achieving that by wadding both the lift and the whole contents heavily. You're the second TH-camr I've seen lately who does that, and the effect looks good.
Have you tried dampening the compo when you put it into the ball mill, by spraying? Among other benefits, dampening reduces the dust formation. It does, however, make more compo stick to the mill and media.
Well, I have not been able to do many pyrotechnic projects recently due to my time being taken up so much, and me just wanting to respect the peace of my neighborhood. I highly respect your seemingly immense knowledge on the subject of pyrotechnics, and you are certainly the first person to comment on my videos who appears to have such a wealth of pyrotechnics knowledge. I have seen all of your comments today, and just didn't have the time to respond until now. As for your question at the end, I have not really made these stars more than a few times ever, so I have not tested or improved my methods of making them. I still very much like and enjoy all pyrotechnics, and when the summer comes and I have the time to make and experiment, I will most definitely test more and make some more videos. I do technically have the time to push out videos now, but the quality would be very poor, and I'm not one to upload videos I'm not at least slightly proud of.
@@MythicalPyro Great! But for all my seeming immensity of knowledge on the subject, I'm still on the lookout for tips, and I think because of presentations like yours, I'm going to start trying to save on lift powder by wadding more. I've had at least one time when an item blew blind because of wadding, though. But it may be that in that case there was too much BP in there, so I need to adjust accordingly.
@goodmaro the rule for lift is 15% for 2" and smaller. 10% 3" and up 5" 8%. These are only guidelines. So many variables.
The alcohol works better in the winter. Faster drying. Pure water for summer mixes better.
Wet vs dry ball mill. It is a mess to clean up. If I was just running the same thing each time, I would mill it wet. But I only have 2 rock tumbler tubs. One for reloading. One for fireworks. At $100 each I'm not changing to wet.
Hey mate I'm from Australia whats the chemical name for dextron or where to get it thanks
Dextrin is just a binder. You can use other chemicals such as corn starch.
is it better if the powder goes more than 2 hours? like a a full Day?
It can definitely be faster depending on many variables such as mill RPM, mill jar size, mill jar material, mill media, mill media size, and mill media weight. If you have an efficient mill then I would not recommend milling for any longer than five hours. At about three hours it would be a good idea to un-clump the powder. It gets compressed into a black powder brick on the bottom of the mill jar. When that happens it doesn't get any faster with more milling.
@@MythicalPyro thanks for the help and advise. i will consider.
Would ceramic balls work? Seems like it would be safe?
They will work, but you must ensure that they are non-sparking ceramic. Even true non-sparking ceramic is more of a risk than lead. Lead is one of the least dangerous medias for this.
@@MythicalPyro right on, thanks for a quick yet great answer.
Great job with all your work!!!
Them ratio's only make 45grm batch ?
More vids please !
How To Make Fireworks stars (Chrysanthemum #6)
What about using ceramic ball media?
That is an acceptable media as long as you have the correct non-sparking ceramic. If you don't want to risk an explosion, and can't afford such a catastrophe, then I would stick with the reliable and consistent lead media.
Bro what is mixer name.??
Adding titanium
Rất mong bạn chỉ giáo công thức làm hạt star và cách bắt lửa cho hạt star cám ơn bạn rất nhiều
Ah I think I know why you blurred your face ;)
I showed my face in a video and YT took it down...
Also nice video, I have a problem with overwetting stars so they become crumbly... it happens every time :/
Thank you for posting :)
Yeah. TH-cam would have definitely taken the video down if it had my face in it.
I seem to always over wet my stars. I've started to keep some of the milled star composition to the side just incase I over wet. Then I can just add the milled star dust to the mixture. Also, thanks for subscribing. I'll put your name in the description.
Yeah, I need to obtain a bowl to mix comps instead of cups I think that will help my case
Good video! Thanks for sharing!
@@MythicalPyro Why is TH-cam taking down certain videos that show faces? It sure can't be ALL videos with faces, because I see plenty of those on TH-cam. It's not about looking under age, they have plenty of kid faces. Political tattoo on the face?
@@goodmaro Nope, no marks that couldn't be shown at all. Basically for security reasons. Maybe I'd show it in the future.
Could have saved a lot of time and mess by using the "CIA" method for making the stars (have done it a hundred times in the past) mix your chemicals in water into a slurry in an aluminium (yes that's the way to spell it) pot.You now have an inert mix due to the water.Place the pot on a electric stove ring (not gas for obvious reasons). Bring to the boil mixing with a wooden spoon.Remove from heat and add ethanol.It will boil and dry to a paste like consistency. Spread the paste onto craft paper in an oven tray and allow to air dry.Once dry cut into desired squares with a sharp wood/ non ferrous tool.This mix is as intimate as a tumbler. You can make fuse grade black powder the same way,just tumble the dried mix at the end of the process.
That's incredibly messy, still quite dangerous so it's no saving on danger too much, and it won't make your charcoal and sulfur any finer, also the kno3 is soluble in the water so it will entirely dissolve, then turn into kno3 crystals after being cooled and put into ethanol. These crystals of kno3 are much coarser than those achieved with ball milling. Just not a good method unless you have tons of pure ethanol to spare and the will to clean up a huge mess.
Mythical Pyro The danger is minimised by the water,The only mess is in the pot which can be washed out with water and kept for future stars/black fuse.The whole point of the water is to put the KN03 into solution because it soaks into the carbon.The amount of ethanol used for a large batch is less than 100 ml which can be obtained cheaply as surgical spirit 98%. Don't knock it until you try it, I have done both,my gem stone tumbler had a full plastic container with brass pellets which do not attract much powder to stick to them.
@@MythicalPyro It's dangerous if done as flyerh describes it. NOT so dangerous if done by the blender method. A saturated solution of potassium nitrate in boiling water is made, then blended with the rest of the charcoal compo as it cools in an electric blender. Alcohol may be added while the mixture cools, but is not really necessary to reduce the KNO3 crystal size, due to the rapid cooling. CIA method does give a very fast powder, but it doesn't need to be that fast for stars. I've been ball milling Bill Ofca's charcoal star compo, because it really calls for it in burning rate as thrown from a flash break, just as he says; he used to mill big batches with bocce balls in a cement mixer! This way it gives excellent spark trails from very ordinary air float charcoal. But most other charcoal star comps I don't mill, and there are lots of ways to get tailing effects. You're right, these formulas are adjusted to their mixing methods. The blender method was adapted by someone from the CIA method for comets using charcoal briquets, but it works only with Kingsford briquets -- something about the clay binder they use that incandesces nicely.
You should use glass marbles instead of lead, they wont contaminate the mix.
Good video, thanks for sharing !
if your trying to make a full firework cake without the boost i would make a small 100 gram batch of a powerful flash powder and prime your stars with that but anyway i would also prime the stars with black powder it helps with easier ignition and its alot more better with the mines just a suggestion
100 grams is not a small batch of a powerful flash powder. 100 grams is easily enough to kill you. One small static discharge and you're dead. Not something worth messing with. Flash isn't even a good star prime. Just generally a really poor idea.
@@MythicalPyro i see flash in all the factory made star primes it burns fast and i also find it in some burst charges inside really big canister shells such as 5" or 6"
@@MythicalPyro but i do appreicate the warning
@@MythicalPyro and also do `you absolutly NEED a ball mill?
Firstly, how do you know that the factory made star primes are flash powder? If you are only basing your conclusion on the appearance of the prime, then you are most likely wrong. Flash is used inside of commercial burst charges for either a booster or the entire break, but flash is not used in commercial star primes. What you are seeing as the prime is not true flash powder. It is most likely a more coarse metal and weaker oxidizer with other binders, not referred to as flash powder. I can't really say much about absolutely needing a ball mill. I have only made these stars using the milling method. To get the proper effect from these stars milling is required. If you make stars without milling you would need to use a different composition so they burn fast enough without milling. There are a lot of variables. The moisture, purity, and fineness of your chemicals all play a role.