So, when cutting a core I usually set up my coordinates on the top, center of the workpiece. That way I can assure alignment between the centerline of my (book matched) cores to the centerline of the ski and avoid snipe from my planer as much as possible. For bases I usually use the top surface and the bottom left corner. That way I can cut 2 bases at a time and maximize my material usage. Hope that helps!
I got a question about your sidecut geometry: I see that you are not using the circular arc as your sidecut, but rather use the circular arc to define your Tip/waist/Tail width points. Through these points you fit a spline that approximates the circular arc? What is the reason you do not use the circular arc as sidecut?
Yeah good eye. It all breaks down to how you want a ski to feel. If you go with what I'd call a traditional sidecut, the technique you're describing, then you'll have a nice carving ski. It will take a bit more energy to get into the turn, but will hold an edge well. To soften the turn initiation and make the ski a bit more playful I like to make it a little more butter knife shaped... That's what's going on there. Thanks for the question!!
@@redbarrelskis3361 Thanks for the answer and for making these videos. They have been very helpful in my process of learning how to build ski’s. But now it has become like an addiction. :) always trying to improve things.
it's a lot of pleasure to watch your channel, nice work here
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice to watch! How do you do your workpiece zero on your Ski Nc (G54)? Do you touch de corner of the stock wood ?
So, when cutting a core I usually set up my coordinates on the top, center of the workpiece. That way I can assure alignment between the centerline of my (book matched) cores to the centerline of the ski and avoid snipe from my planer as much as possible.
For bases I usually use the top surface and the bottom left corner. That way I can cut 2 bases at a time and maximize my material usage. Hope that helps!
Hello, I would like to know the thickness of the board core. Can you tell me
it varies between different pairs. The waist is typically 8-12mm, the tips and tails are closer to 2-5mm.
I got a question about your sidecut geometry:
I see that you are not using the circular arc as your sidecut, but rather use the circular arc to define your Tip/waist/Tail width points.
Through these points you fit a spline that approximates the circular arc?
What is the reason you do not use the circular arc as sidecut?
Yeah good eye. It all breaks down to how you want a ski to feel. If you go with what I'd call a traditional sidecut, the technique you're describing, then you'll have a nice carving ski. It will take a bit more energy to get into the turn, but will hold an edge well. To soften the turn initiation and make the ski a bit more playful I like to make it a little more butter knife shaped... That's what's going on there. Thanks for the question!!
@@redbarrelskis3361 Thanks for the answer and for making these videos. They have been very helpful in my process of learning how to build ski’s.
But now it has become like an addiction. :) always trying to improve things.
the skis are flat.. the only interesting part of making a ski is the curled tip