Thanks for tuning in guys! You can purchase the AudioControl D-4.800 below! shop.howl.me/caraudiofab/collections/2607 Disclaimer: Affiliate links, if you purchase from the links above we receive a commission.
I love Audio Control products they are at the fore front of car audio technology. I love this dsp built in technology and the ability to hook it up and change settings via laptop. This allows u to tune ur system the way u want to hear it while sitting in the driver,pass.,seat etc. I think the tuning ability of this technology is endless. Not to mention being able to control the different levels of different channels all from the remote is genius,there's no need for multiple remotes for multiple channels. Great review Mark I always love how much detail u can give on such an endless possibility product. Thanks!!!
that's the amp I need in my 2016 Golf, a bit too powerfull for nothing but the DSP is a must to correct all the factory system flaws ! Looks to be an awesome product !
Cool! Audio Control is one of the advanced car audio brand when it comes to technology especially the DSP models and the D series amplifiers, you don't need to install a external crossovers, equalizers, Sound processors & etc, that can cause signal cables all over your vehicle
Hey Mark, hoping you see this but when using this product in conjunction with an aftermarket radio would you personally use the high level inputs or the aftermarket radio’s pre-amp outs and why? Also, I’m assuming with there being a built in DSP I could send the “corrected” input frequency to my subwoofer amp, I’m just not quite wrapping my head around how the signal chain would work there. Thanks in advance if you see this and respond!
When you were in dashboard view and you were setting the equalizer you had the input at 70 decibels and the output at 60 decibels why would you not make them the same so we can compare them? I don't understand why you would do that unless it was not on purpose.
Hi Mark great video and great product from AUDIOCONTROL!!!! 👍👍👍 This amp seems to be to complicated just to get your sound system to sound good or the way you want it to sound!!!! Its obvious that this amp is not for everyone to use or to buy, especially if you don't have a laptop or a RTA to do all your fine tuneing just to get your system to sound really good!!!! With out those two things someone can really be in a world of trouble and it would then be since less to even buy it in the first place!!!! The technology on this amp is great but again it's just not for everyone due to being to suffiesticated to operate!!!! I think I will personally stick to a more simple AMP and a seperate DSP, or to a DSP that's already integrated into a head unit!!! It would save time and trouble in my opinion!!!! Other than that it looks to be another great product from AUDIOCONTROL!!!! Keep those great videos coming they are always very interesting to watch!!!! 👍👍👍👍 Thank you!!!!
I'm still not clear on that "front high" input. Is it to control the chime levels when integrating into a factory system? If you use that input solely for that purpose,then how do you get the front left regular audio to play? Are you expected to split the front right signal?
Would this amplifier be too much for powering a set of focal ps 165 fue component speakers rated at 80rms? And a 10 inch focal p 25 fue subwoofer rated at 280rms? I see that the audio control would give me 125rms per channel at the speakers and a 400rms bridged connection to my subwoofer I don’t know if there is a way to adjust this amplifier to work with the rms that I need, this could be the perfect solution to installing my audio system to my fiesta st Sent from my iPad
Let’s say I just wanted to change my vehicles factory door speakers. But wanted to keep the factory tweets. Do I need to get a passive crossover. Or will this amp protect the factory tweets with the amps dsp?
I plan to splice into my front speaker wires since my factory radio does not have RCA outputs, my guess is that since I am not disconnecting anything from the factory radio, I will not lose any of the chimes and voice commands by doing so...
Well, Audiotec Fischer has some very cool amps with DSPs in them and they come in very different sizes. Match PP86 DSP for example has 8 channel output + 10 channel DSP... Audiocontrol is just starting... they have a long way ahead of them.
How best to add an active subwoofer after using 2 on mids and 2 on tweeters?? And would time alignment matters to the sub and its overall sound staging??
hello sir. i have dm810 processor. i dont install yet. but i want to operate it with laptop via connecting cable it doest not boot. Whats is the problem with it. is it connect with power cable and then it is working with laptop? please answer my question sir
I want to get the D-5.1300, but am not quite ready to get a sub yet. I know it is generally not a good practice to leave an output unpopulated on an amp. Would that still be the case for an amp with a DSP built in and could that channel just be disabled until I am ready to use it?
Can it be review for audio quality? I mean it’s a class D, which generally are not better than A/B in terms of overall weight, resolution, warmth etc etc...
I got one because of this video. I still haven't installed it yet. I have a quick question. Is there a button or some sort of option on the computer to deal with the door and convenient chimes? I use GPS and have a door chimes and I dont want to go deaf everytime I get out of my car. Lol
Considering getting this along with a lc-1.800 to power 2 jl 10 tw3. My question is if it would be better to use the acr3 to the 4.800 as my sub control via the rca output, or to use the sub out on the pioneer nex
You don't need the passive crossover. Running a DSP means an active system (each woofer& tweeter directly to the amplifier) all the "crossovers" points will be done by the processor
Mark, didn't you have an iPhone RTA mic? And you had a discount code for it in a video last year... I was wondering if you ever came across the Android version for that RTA? This amp looks great, information got me excited, I would like to have an RTA mic to finish my build.
I'm thinking about adding the LC4.800 to my 2004 Acura TSX. Since it has 6 Speaker Level inputs, should I use the post factory amp signal? My car uses front active tweeters, and the pre factory amp signal is a balanced one. How should I tap into the wires?
What if the audio has been altered like a TH-cam video or a DVD or old CD's... how would this work to maintain or upgrade the quality of sound produced or would the auto feature work for that issue?
Kidada R. That is were the multiple profiles come in. But you could only do a blanket tune for each. If it can store more than 3 profiles then you can add more setups for each media type.
If I already have the DM-810 but want to run the D-4.800 on my A pillars and the LC 4.800 on my doors, can I run it without using the DSP feature on the amp?
Here is the real question I've been wanting to ask. What do you drive, and what sound system do you have in this vehicle? Thanks for the videos. Grade A
Hi mark I have a 2015 Impala, looking to update the speaker set up. The amp on my vehicle is located in the trunk, My question is how do I figure out what speaker is what on my factory amplifier. Can you by chance show a step by step how to, to do determine which speaker is which on a car with factory amp??
With component speakers and vehicle having component speakers can I group up the factory tweeter n woofer “high output wires in a group to make up the full spectrum? And use the aftermarket component crossovers? Making the factory components one channel per side? Using that amp. Thanks in advance! Larry
So what if your head unit has 3 outputs front rear and sub rca’s do you just say the hell with the sub output and just get a mono block amp an hook it up to the line level out of the 4.800 and set it up for an sub in the software?
I’m needing to know the same thing. 2 front woofers 2 rear coaxials and 2 front tweeters but I’m trying to not use a crossover for the front. Did you end up figuring it out?
Exactly! You can use the "RCA" output from this amp to send signal to ANY other amp that accepts "RCA" style in.... and better yet... You can control the signal on those channels with the DSP!
I have more speakers I want to power and may get a D-6. I was going to use one of those channels to send to Kicker crossovers for components, to save some channels so I can power mids and rears also. Have you found that type of strategy works effectively?
Yes you can do that to save channels, many people like to run active though and go straight to speakers, but you need to know what you are doing to avoid hurting the speakers.
How well would something like an Audio Control D-4.800 pair with a set of Audison APK 165 components? I also am looking at an LC-1.800 to power 4x Sundown SA6.5 subs in a ported/tuned box. RMS wise, this amp setup is matched extremely well to what the Sundowns will take (200w RMS each). The goal would be to feed the LC-1.800 (sub amp) with the RCA signal from the D-4.800.
okay so my question for this is how many chennels does it act as a dsp for. would I need to buy 2 of these for an 8 speaker car, I want to know if I can just buy this dsp/amp and another amp (amp only rather than buying 2 dsp/ amps) to power and eq all 8 speakers. or is it best to buy 2 amps and a separate dsp.
I have a skar amplifier for my sub. Looking to purchase the d-4.800 for highs and mids. Will the accubass feature of this amp/dsp correct the bass roll off going into the skar amp once their strapped together?
Mark, great info! I'm a ford tech and plan on buying a newer Expedition el. Since the models i'm looking at come with a factory dsp, would i bypass the factory one and wire this in instead? I'm planning on running a full alpine type r system. Maybe 6.5 components in front and rear then 6x9s in rear quarter panels and 2 type r 12s in rear. Is there a line converter that i could install to control 3 to 4 amps that has the dsp and eq functions?
Hi Jessie. If you plan on getting a Sony branded factory system there are a few ways to interface the factory system either pre amp or post amp. If you are getting a 17 with B&O you will have to interface post amp with a DSP.
Best solution by far is the Rockford-Fosgate DSR-1. It eliminates the Sony amp which has all the DSP features built-into it. The OEM radio since a unfiltered signal to the amp and it does the rest. The DSR-1 uses Maestro AR technology and it handles the conversion of the radio's signal to low level. The DSP is the same RF 360.3 CPU with a different firmware as it has muted some of the features of the 360.3 to reduce cost. What you are left with is the vast majority of 360.3 features and 8 channel output. It's also affordable at $250. All you need is the Ford Harness from Maestro, update the Maestro then update the DSR-1, set up via laptop and then plug it into your car, you are done. Plug in your amp and speakers to the harness and then open the Perfect Tune app on your phone to set everything up.
How would you make this amp work with the 2017 Ford focus sync 3? Apparently i can't remove the factory amp and was just wondering if and how this amp would work
Something I noticed about the MILC light on this amp. I noticed that when setting the max volume from my head unit to apply to the D.4-800, the MILC light on the D.4-800 comes on a lot sooner than the MILC light in the DSP software. I actually connected an O-scope and from what I saw, the MILC light in the DSP software appears to be more accurate with detecting clipping. I didn't see any noticeable clipping until the MILC light in the software came on. Has anyone else noticed this?
very nice product, i still prefer the Audison Prima amplifiers just for the fact that you can de-equalize the signal coming from the head unit and also the plug and play wiring arness available for almost every car out there, great review bro!!
+Derek Stechmann depends, the rta in the software allows us to see what the electrical signal looks like coming in and out. This is awesome for summing so we can make sure we have a full range signal as an example. If you want to then measure the ACOUSTIC response (which changes based on environment, speakers, etc) you need an RTA mic
Hi, I had a d4-800 installed. It is in a Honda Ridgeline, as well, Clarion component in front, 3 way in rear. After the install it literally sounds like crap! The sound bounces/echoes all over and its shrill. Is there a particular setting on the dsp I should be adjusting via the provided software! Any help is appreciated, thanks! Sent from my iPad
This can happen if you sum let's say, channels 1-2 and 3-4 if those channels are outputting the same signals. On my setup, channels 1-2 and 3-4 (front and rear speakers from a factory unit with no existing amplifier and crossover) are set from 90hz to 20khz (mid range and highs). I accidentally summed the 2 together while messing around and my system sounded EXACTLY how you described it. If you're summing, make sure that you're only summing together channels with different frequency ranges.
Cody Thomas there is a difference.. i had a 4 channel phoenix gold class d amp on my morel tempo ultra 602 and i thought it was good... untill i bought my zapco st4xp ab class amp. Theres is a big difference. Way more dynamic and warmth. I wont ever be using any d class amp for my mids and highs ever again but only for subs.
Mark. I'd like to know your insight... do you think this amplifier could be a potential contender for a sound quality install? Audiocontrol has a very solid legacy of solid products, but does it live up to fight against, say JL audio, or ARC audio?
AudioControl Thanks. I’m from the UK and was looking for Distributors. There’s only 1 here. Fortunately it so happens to be 25 minutes from my house. Unfortunately, they don’t distribute a wide selection of your products. ☹️
Super interested in this product. It might save my Accord. Question is, is the purpose of "output" to simply put out a flat signal to your speakers? Can you use the output to "shape" the sound after you have flattened the output? In other words, work the output flat, then RTA your cars actual response. Then, return to the output section and manually adjust. I'm annoyed with other OEM integration solutions which force you to add hardware to do the fun "tweaking" stuff. Do you HAVE to use the accessory volume control? OR, can you use the accessory to run subwoofer volume, and use your OEM headunit to run the master volume? It would seem that none of the integration solutions can handle adjusting the signal in real-time. Is that true?
You generally start with flattening the ELECTRICAL signal which is what you see on the computer screen. This way you have a clean starting point. Then you adjust to taste for the actual ACOUSTIC response. This could be measured by an RTA mic. I put electrical and acoustic in CAPS because it is important to understand the two are different. You could have flat electrical signal out of the amp to speakers, but their actual acoustic response will be different, this is why you further adjust on the DSP in the amp. The volume control is optional. You can pick in the software what channels you want it to control volume on, so you could do none, all, or any combination. So yes you could definitely use it strictly as a sub volume control on those channels.
Makes sense. But would using OEM volume control to run the system compromise fidelity IF the car adjusts the output in real-time? That is, in the accord, volume goes to about 40. But, even with flat bass and treble settings, bass is being "compressed" / reduced at any volume over about 20. In other words, there is built-in DSP that is shaping the sound as you increase volume. So, even with a corrected signal, you might have an issue where bass limiting is having an effect. My thinking was that I would get this amp, set the factory tone controls for the bass to a minimum point, so I can get more signal strength from the deck. Then I would restore the bass in the amp, level the signal, and get to work applying the perfect response curve to the speakers and sub. But it would be 100% awesome to know using the OEM volume knob isn't screwing up my hard tuning work. What do you think?
@@matt88169 This is what is called "dynamic eq" when the eq changes with volume, if this is the case you want to set the factory radio at a max unclipped volume, and use the add on controller knob to adjust the volume of all channels. So volume control would now be completely done through the amp.
Thedjrush i was looking into some feature available in other amps or dsp’s. However and fyi I was able to control that using the phone setup parameters in the headunit.
Yeah the bluetooth volume I've seen usually on the head unit and not on any amp let me know if you find an amp with that capability possibly the nvx line?
grin and bear it - That really depends if the processor adds noise, or restricts the sound stage in any way, (doesn't sound as open). The issue with applying the passive filter on the speaker lines is phase-shifting. With the crossover at the processor at line-level, there is less current to lag behind the lower voltage, not entirely sure how active processing overall effects phase-shifting. I believe when voltage goes up, current goes up, and lags behind the voltage, due to the large capacitors in the passive crossover. With the processor, you can time align the tweeter channel from the mid-channel to negate any phase shift. With the Linkwitz-Riley configuration built-in, a 12db slope is a second order, gives 180 degree phase shift. On a passive crossover, you would wire the tweeter out of phase. On 24db slope, that's a 4th order, 360 degrees out of phase.
Captain Buff The Third, well, looking back at my comment, and.... wtf? You're right, it really makes no sense and over complicates a badly worded question. Basicly, was trying to say passive filters phase-shift... I think that was my point.
This was a good sounding amp while it lasted,... suddenly died for no reason, gains set properly. Can't get in touch with anyone whether audiocontrol or anyone else for repair
you know why they were always a separate unit? because amps burn out, the processors, crossovers etc would normally survive. soo to pay extra for an amp, which could (if your cheap) cost you more then a dsp and amp by them selves, to have 1 unit take out both? idk man
+ZelosZelo I have never had an amp burn out... Proper installation leads to reliability that will far outlast the vehicle. AudioControl also has a five year warranty when installed by a authorized dealer.
and a reliable amp, some of those out there are horrible. I know a couple of high end non-franchise shops that refuse a couple of amp brands (even if you buy them and bring them in), but wasnt here to trash, just saying, that possibility does exist, and my car is 20, well the one with the system ;), all the components still work, installed in the 90's, properly, by me.
I have Audio Control pieces well over 20 years old that work like day one. Rock Solid. My Audio Control RTA is over 20 years old. It actually looks like Caf's lol. Mark's
Personally I would keep DSP and amp seperate because of the DSP, not because of the amp. Anything that connects to a computer is doomed to become obsolete because computers change incredibly fast. There is also no way to split the DSP and amp section as there are no pre-out/main-in bridges on this amp, you can't even set the gains without a compatible computer. One of my Genesis Dual Mono's is now 20 years old, my other 3 are well over 10 years old, and I even have 4 original Soundstream Reference amps which were notorious for running very hot and fail easily... All of the amps mentioned are still in working order with nothing but capacitor replacements as repairs (I prefer to call that regular maintenance on gear of that vintage), even though one of the younger Dual Mono's has been pushed hard and outside of its specifications (1.5ohm bridged load while only a minimum of 4ohm bridged is officially supported).
Candisa I would agree except for the fact that Audio Control has always been one to be on top of customer service. Computers change as well as products. There warranty is the best in the business. Like I said my AC RTA is ancient and they still are currently in production and still the go to for RTA's. They still produce all the parts and current mic's for them. Audio Control will always have software to work with there products.
I just recently purchased a power acoustik amp and every thing is connected but it still turns on protected I even changed all the wires and i still have the same problem can i get some more ideas, I did bridge a wire from power to amp remote and it does the same thing
Thanks for tuning in guys! You can purchase the AudioControl D-4.800 below!
shop.howl.me/caraudiofab/collections/2607
Disclaimer: Affiliate links, if you purchase from the links above we receive a commission.
That will most likely be my next amplifier. Good sales pitch. 😎
I love Audio Control products they are at the fore front of car audio technology. I love this dsp built in technology and the ability to hook it up and change settings via laptop. This allows u to tune ur system the way u want to hear it while sitting in the driver,pass.,seat etc. I think the tuning ability of this technology is endless. Not to mention being able to control the different levels of different channels all from the remote is genius,there's no need for multiple remotes for multiple channels. Great review Mark I always love how much detail u can give on such an endless possibility product. Thanks!!!
+Gary Poole thanks man! These videos take forever as they show each feature rather than just saying them, I appreciate that you enjoy that!
2:58 - "the included AudioControl guitar pick works really well for adjusting the dials"
4:36 - "there's no dials on this amplifier to adjust"
+MrClown my first time opening it up! It does technically come in handy for flipping the little GTO switch
Were you born that smart? or did it take years and years of RETARDED comments?
😂😂
Couldn't help but notice the Dayton AMT speakers on your desk. Nice. Good video too. Informative as always
that's the amp I need in my 2016 Golf, a bit too powerfull for nothing but the DSP is a must to correct all the factory system flaws ! Looks to be an awesome product !
Awesome video !!!! First time seeing this built in dsp amp !!!!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💪💪💪👍
The best in the world is Audison 8.9 Forza
Cool! Audio Control is one of the advanced car audio brand when it comes to technology especially the DSP models and the D series amplifiers, you don't need to install a external crossovers, equalizers, Sound processors & etc, that can cause signal cables all over your vehicle
Need a degree to run this thing, but awesome product and awesome video as always
Game changing amplifier.
Awesome, thorough video. Thanks for putting this together, this was super useful!
Cant front Ive been installing Audio Control products since the late 90s. Very Good Brand! Just speaking from my experience. Nice Video
Very informative video that helped me make a decision on this unit VS amp/DSP/LC2i, thanks.
Very cool! Audio Control has always made killer stuff! :)
god damn it Doug
Man you are the best
SoundmanCA its even pine scented!!!
Yeah with killer prices also :/
Greetings from Malaysia. Loving your contents.
Can you do a video on DSP with built-in amps VS standalone DSP and standalone amp?
I wish this amp/dsp was available here in Brasil, it's soo awesome!!
Thanks for the video!!
Super enjoy the Hand talking.. I can understand whats going on even if my speakers are not on..lol great video man.
+Troy McGrgeor haha, I speak 3 languages now!
Hey Mark, hoping you see this but when using this product in conjunction with an aftermarket radio would you personally use the high level inputs or the aftermarket radio’s pre-amp outs and why? Also, I’m assuming with there being a built in DSP I could send the “corrected” input frequency to my subwoofer amp, I’m just not quite wrapping my head around how the signal chain would work there. Thanks in advance if you see this and respond!
Hi, i have audio control D4.800 and focal fps4160 amp, which one is the best for SOund quality? Thank you
When you were in dashboard view and you were setting the equalizer you had the input at 70 decibels and the output at 60 decibels why would you not make them the same so we can compare them? I don't understand why you would do that unless it was not on purpose.
Hi Mark great video and great product from AUDIOCONTROL!!!! 👍👍👍 This amp seems to be to complicated just to get your sound system to sound good or the way you want it to sound!!!! Its obvious that this amp is not for everyone to use or to buy, especially if you don't have a laptop or a RTA to do all your fine tuneing just to get your system to sound really good!!!! With out those two things someone can really be in a world of trouble and it would then be since less to even buy it in the first place!!!! The technology on this amp is great but again it's just not for everyone due to being to suffiesticated to operate!!!! I think I will personally stick to a more simple AMP and a seperate DSP, or to a DSP that's already integrated into a head unit!!! It would save time and trouble in my opinion!!!! Other than that it looks to be another great product from AUDIOCONTROL!!!! Keep those great videos coming they are always very interesting to watch!!!! 👍👍👍👍 Thank you!!!!
You go boy! You know your stuff. 👍
Can we install 4 component speakers in this?
Does the functionality of this amp + DSP replace the need for the LC2i or similar converter?
Thank you for this very informative video. If you don't mind, how the Epicenter Bass Restoration technology differs from AccuBass?
I'm still not clear on that "front high" input. Is it to control the chime levels when integrating into a factory system? If you use that input solely for that purpose,then how do you get the front left regular audio to play? Are you expected to split the front right signal?
Would this amplifier be too much for powering a set of focal ps 165 fue component speakers rated at 80rms? And a 10 inch focal p 25 fue subwoofer rated at 280rms?
I see that the audio control would give me 125rms per channel at the speakers and a 400rms bridged connection to my subwoofer
I don’t know if there is a way to adjust this amplifier to work with the rms that I need, this could be the perfect solution to installing my audio system to my fiesta st
Sent from my iPad
can you run a pair of component speakers and a pair of coaxial speakers with this?
Let’s say I just wanted to change my vehicles factory door speakers. But wanted to keep the factory tweets. Do I need to get a passive crossover. Or will this amp protect the factory tweets with the amps dsp?
For this type of setup, is setting the head-unit's equalizer to flat still the preferred method?
Does the level on the output view mean lower RMS going to that channel?
I plan to splice into my front speaker wires since my factory radio does not have RCA outputs, my guess is that since I am not disconnecting anything from the factory radio, I will not lose any of the chimes and voice commands by doing so...
OMG! I NEED ONE OF THESE!
Well, Audiotec Fischer has some very cool amps with DSPs in them and they come in very different sizes. Match PP86 DSP for example has 8 channel output + 10 channel DSP... Audiocontrol is just starting... they have a long way ahead of them.
How best to add an active subwoofer after using 2 on mids and 2 on tweeters?? And would time alignment matters to the sub and its overall sound staging??
I'm hoping they release the D6.1200.
Do you have to have a laptop ? Could you plug this in to a tablet and have the same control ?
hello sir. i have dm810 processor. i dont install yet. but i want to operate it with laptop via connecting cable it doest not boot. Whats is the problem with it. is it connect with power cable and then it is working with laptop? please answer my question sir
I want to get the D-5.1300, but am not quite ready to get a sub yet. I know it is generally not a good practice to leave an output unpopulated on an amp. Would that still be the case for an amp with a DSP built in and could that channel just be disabled until I am ready to use it?
Wow!!
Greetings from Chile, Southamerica!
How much is this amp??
Can it be review for audio quality? I mean it’s a class D, which generally are not better than A/B in terms of overall weight, resolution, warmth etc etc...
Excelente amigo saludos desde Veracruz mexico
Thank you
orale gûero baboso, dame tu chonchon!! LOL saludos, te admiro mucho amigo
I got one because of this video. I still haven't installed it yet. I have a quick question. Is there a button or some sort of option on the computer to deal with the door and convenient chimes? I use GPS and have a door chimes and I dont want to go deaf everytime I get out of my car. Lol
Can the ACR remote work on the line out? this way you can use the amp itself to run mids and the line out to a sub but use the knob as a bass knob.
Exactly the question I have
No wonder it's $700, but that's actually not bad considering its build quality and DSP options.
Kenwood's is $799 and many of the same features.
Considering getting this along with a lc-1.800 to power 2 jl 10 tw3. My question is if it would be better to use the acr3 to the 4.800 as my sub control via the rca output, or to use the sub out on the pioneer nex
Mark if I use this as my dsp how are my crossovers for my components used? Thank you!!
You don't need the passive crossover. Running a DSP means an active system (each woofer& tweeter directly to the amplifier) all the "crossovers" points will be done by the processor
Mark, didn't you have an iPhone RTA mic? And you had a discount code for it in a video last year... I was wondering if you ever came across the Android version for that RTA? This amp looks great, information got me excited, I would like to have an RTA mic to finish my build.
I'm thinking about adding the LC4.800 to my 2004 Acura TSX. Since it has 6 Speaker Level inputs, should I use the post factory amp signal? My car uses front active tweeters, and the pre factory amp signal is a balanced one.
How should I tap into the wires?
What if the audio has been altered like a TH-cam video or a DVD or old CD's... how would this work to maintain or upgrade the quality of sound produced or would the auto feature work for that issue?
Kidada R. That is were the multiple profiles come in. But you could only do a blanket tune for each. If it can store more than 3 profiles then you can add more setups for each media type.
Liam Cooper oh okay.
If I already have the DM-810 but want to run the D-4.800 on my A pillars and the LC 4.800 on my doors, can I run it without using the DSP feature on the amp?
Here is the real question I've been wanting to ask. What do you drive, and what sound system do you have in this vehicle? Thanks for the videos. Grade A
Hi mark
I have a 2015 Impala, looking to update the speaker set up. The amp on my vehicle is located in the trunk,
My question is how do I figure out what speaker is what on my factory amplifier. Can you by chance show a step by step how to, to do determine which speaker is which on a car with factory amp??
How do you control the time alignment? One side with a delay?
BassheadRick803 ! You dial in the approximate distance between speaker driver and the listening position; the DSP then computes the appropriate delay.
With component speakers and vehicle having component speakers can I group up the factory tweeter n woofer “high output wires in a group to make up the full spectrum?
And use the aftermarket component crossovers?
Making the factory components one channel per side?
Using that amp.
Thanks in advance!
Larry
How do you set the time delay on input channels on this amp?
So what if your head unit has 3 outputs front rear and sub rca’s do you just say the hell with the sub output and just get a mono block amp an hook it up to the line level out of the 4.800 and set it up for an sub in the software?
I got 4 new door speakers and 2 new dash speakers. Would I be able to run all of them with this 4 channel?
I’m needing to know the same thing. 2 front woofers 2 rear coaxials and 2 front tweeters but I’m trying to not use a crossover for the front. Did you end up figuring it out?
Is the RCA line outputs good to run to a monoblock or two channel amplifier and power a subwoofer(s), no Line Output Converter needed??
Exactly! You can use the "RCA" output from this amp to send signal to ANY other amp that accepts "RCA" style in.... and better yet... You can control the signal on those channels with the DSP!
With this one, Do I need the LC2i PRO?
I have more speakers I want to power and may get a D-6. I was going to use one of those channels to send to Kicker crossovers for components, to save some channels so I can power mids and rears also. Have you found that type of strategy works effectively?
Yes you can do that to save channels, many people like to run active though and go straight to speakers, but you need to know what you are doing to avoid hurting the speakers.
could you do a review of D-5.1300?
How well would something like an Audio Control D-4.800 pair with a set of Audison APK 165 components? I also am looking at an LC-1.800 to power 4x Sundown SA6.5 subs in a ported/tuned box. RMS wise, this amp setup is matched extremely well to what the Sundowns will take (200w RMS each). The goal would be to feed the LC-1.800 (sub amp) with the RCA signal from the D-4.800.
okay so my question for this is how many chennels does it act as a dsp for. would I need to buy 2 of these for an 8 speaker car, I want to know if I can just buy this dsp/amp and another amp (amp only rather than buying 2 dsp/ amps) to power and eq all 8 speakers. or is it best to buy 2 amps and a separate dsp.
I'd look at the new 6 channel D-6.1200. That gives you 6 channels of control on board plus 2 outputs that you can control
I have a skar amplifier for my sub. Looking to purchase the d-4.800 for highs and mids. Will the accubass feature of this amp/dsp correct the bass roll off going into the skar amp once their strapped together?
Great video. Thanks
nifty little amp!!!
How does the DSP compare to the Q series Kicker amp?
I was told this amp/dsp has the control to adjust chime levels for Gm. Is that true before I buy one.
You can target the exact frequency of the tones and dial them back yes.
Mark, great info! I'm a ford tech and plan on buying a newer Expedition el. Since the models i'm looking at come with a factory dsp, would i bypass the factory one and wire this in instead? I'm planning on running a full alpine type r system. Maybe 6.5 components in front and rear then 6x9s in rear quarter panels and 2 type r 12s in rear. Is there a line converter that i could install to control 3 to 4 amps that has the dsp and eq functions?
Hi Jessie. If you plan on getting a Sony branded factory system there are a few ways to interface the factory system either pre amp or post amp. If you are getting a 17 with B&O you will have to interface post amp with a DSP.
Best solution by far is the Rockford-Fosgate DSR-1. It eliminates the Sony amp which has all the DSP features built-into it. The OEM radio since a unfiltered signal to the amp and it does the rest. The DSR-1 uses Maestro AR technology and it handles the conversion of the radio's signal to low level. The DSP is the same RF 360.3 CPU with a different firmware as it has muted some of the features of the 360.3 to reduce cost. What you are left with is the vast majority of 360.3 features and 8 channel output. It's also affordable at $250. All you need is the Ford Harness from Maestro, update the Maestro then update the DSR-1, set up via laptop and then plug it into your car, you are done. Plug in your amp and speakers to the harness and then open the Perfect Tune app on your phone to set everything up.
What about your subwoofer! do i need another amplifier?
What are your thoughts on the idatalink Maestro AR?
How would you make this amp work with the 2017 Ford focus sync 3? Apparently i can't remove the factory amp and was just wondering if and how this amp would work
Something I noticed about the MILC light on this amp. I noticed that when setting the max volume from my head unit to apply to the D.4-800, the MILC light on the D.4-800 comes on a lot sooner than the MILC light in the DSP software. I actually connected an O-scope and from what I saw, the MILC light in the DSP software appears to be more accurate with detecting clipping. I didn't see any noticeable clipping until the MILC light in the software came on. Has anyone else noticed this?
Can It pass through a processed signal to a second amplifier?
Yes.
very nice product, i still prefer the Audison Prima amplifiers just for the fact that you can de-equalize the signal coming from the head unit and also the plug and play wiring arness available for almost every car out there, great review bro!!
pal, don't use the "O" face for your preview tile...
What are yall thoughts on autotek amps?
Do you need a external RTA if the amp/dsp has one built in to the software?
+Derek Stechmann depends, the rta in the software allows us to see what the electrical signal looks like coming in and out. This is awesome for summing so we can make sure we have a full range signal as an example. If you want to then measure the ACOUSTIC response (which changes based on environment, speakers, etc) you need an RTA mic
CarAudioFabrication Thank you
Hi mark where can we buy in newzealand
Hi, I had a d4-800 installed. It is in a Honda Ridgeline, as well, Clarion component in front, 3 way in rear.
After the install it literally sounds like crap! The sound bounces/echoes all over and its shrill.
Is there a particular setting on the dsp I should be adjusting via the provided software! Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Sent from my iPad
DSPs need to be properly tuned, tuned incorrectly the results will be poor.
CarAudioFabrication Yes, apparently mine is not tuned correctly yet! Sounds hallow!
This can happen if you sum let's say, channels 1-2 and 3-4 if those channels are outputting the same signals. On my setup, channels 1-2 and 3-4 (front and rear speakers from a factory unit with no existing amplifier and crossover) are set from 90hz to 20khz (mid range and highs). I accidentally summed the 2 together while messing around and my system sounded EXACTLY how you described it. If you're summing, make sure that you're only summing together channels with different frequency ranges.
Is this amp D or AB or A? Im guessing jts D by the D4.800 wish it was class AB...
pop032292 there's no difference
Cody Thomas there is a difference.. i had a 4 channel phoenix gold class d amp on my morel tempo ultra 602 and i thought it was good... untill i bought my zapco st4xp ab class amp. Theres is a big difference. Way more dynamic and warmth. I wont ever be using any d class amp for my mids and highs ever again but only for subs.
Can you use this for a ford B/O audio file
Wtf is a body odor audio file?
@@knifen2478 ha ha ha Bang oulfsen
Thanks
What is the difference between this and lc 6.1200?
This has two less channels but a DSP built in. D stands for DSP built in. There is also a D-6.1200 which is basically an LC-6.1200 with the DSP inside
my question is can i use this to power 8 inch 200 watt peak subwoofers 4 6.5" 200 watt peak doors and 2 2" tweeter 250watt bullet tweeeters
You would have four channels of output with this. You could send signal from it to a second amp for the subs.
Mark. I'd like to know your insight... do you think this amplifier could be a potential contender for a sound quality install? Audiocontrol has a very solid legacy of solid products, but does it live up to fight against, say JL audio, or ARC audio?
and to answer your question yes, Audio Control would be great to use for SQ install, their THD is usually in the .002 range
Can you actually make a profile for the settings here? So you can send them for other people to use? Is it possible?
Yes you can save and email settings.
AudioControl Thanks. I’m from the UK and was looking for Distributors. There’s only 1 here. Fortunately it so happens to be 25 minutes from my house. Unfortunately, they don’t distribute a wide selection of your products. ☹️
Super interested in this product. It might save my Accord.
Question is, is the purpose of "output" to simply put out a flat signal to your speakers? Can you use the output to "shape" the sound after you have flattened the output? In other words, work the output flat, then RTA your cars actual response. Then, return to the output section and manually adjust.
I'm annoyed with other OEM integration solutions which force you to add hardware to do the fun "tweaking" stuff.
Do you HAVE to use the accessory volume control? OR, can you use the accessory to run subwoofer volume, and use your OEM headunit to run the master volume? It would seem that none of the integration solutions can handle adjusting the signal in real-time. Is that true?
You generally start with flattening the ELECTRICAL signal which is what you see on the computer screen. This way you have a clean starting point. Then you adjust to taste for the actual ACOUSTIC response. This could be measured by an RTA mic. I put electrical and acoustic in CAPS because it is important to understand the two are different. You could have flat electrical signal out of the amp to speakers, but their actual acoustic response will be different, this is why you further adjust on the DSP in the amp.
The volume control is optional. You can pick in the software what channels you want it to control volume on, so you could do none, all, or any combination. So yes you could definitely use it strictly as a sub volume control on those channels.
Makes sense.
But would using OEM volume control to run the system compromise fidelity IF the car adjusts the output in real-time? That is, in the accord, volume goes to about 40. But, even with flat bass and treble settings, bass is being "compressed" / reduced at any volume over about 20. In other words, there is built-in DSP that is shaping the sound as you increase volume. So, even with a corrected signal, you might have an issue where bass limiting is having an effect.
My thinking was that I would get this amp, set the factory tone controls for the bass to a minimum point, so I can get more signal strength from the deck. Then I would restore the bass in the amp, level the signal, and get to work applying the perfect response curve to the speakers and sub. But it would be 100% awesome to know using the OEM volume knob isn't screwing up my hard tuning work. What do you think?
@@matt88169 This is what is called "dynamic eq" when the eq changes with volume, if this is the case you want to set the factory radio at a max unclipped volume, and use the add on controller knob to adjust the volume of all channels. So volume control would now be completely done through the amp.
What's the difference between this amp and the DM-810?
The DM-810 is a stand alone DSP. You would use it as an interface between a source device and an aftermarket external amplifier.
CarAudioFabrication thank you! The D-4.800 is what I need then. It's everything in one.
If I am using this amp with a factory head unit, what can I do in order to lower the volume of a telephone call?
Manually lower the volume either on knob or the phone its connected 2
Thedjrush i was looking into some feature available in other amps or dsp’s. However and fyi I was able to control that using the phone setup parameters in the headunit.
Yeah the bluetooth volume I've seen usually on the head unit and not on any amp let me know if you find an amp with that capability possibly the nvx line?
Would. It be an upgrade to passive crossovers for components front?
grin and bear it -
That really depends if the processor adds noise, or restricts the sound stage in any way, (doesn't sound as open). The issue with applying the passive filter on the speaker lines is phase-shifting. With the crossover at the processor at line-level, there is less current to lag behind the lower voltage, not entirely sure how active processing overall effects phase-shifting. I believe when voltage goes up, current goes up, and lags behind the voltage, due to the large capacitors in the passive crossover. With the processor, you can time align the tweeter channel from the mid-channel to negate any phase shift.
With the Linkwitz-Riley configuration built-in, a 12db slope is a second order, gives 180 degree phase shift. On a passive crossover, you would wire the tweeter out of phase. On 24db slope, that's a 4th order, 360 degrees out of phase.
Captain Buff The Third, well, looking back at my comment, and.... wtf? You're right, it really makes no sense and over complicates a badly worded question. Basicly, was trying to say passive filters phase-shift... I think that was my point.
no SFC?
This DSP doesn't do left/right EQ???? Helix would be better choice then?
Nice amplifier, but there are so many brands on the market :/
This was a good sounding amp while it lasted,... suddenly died for no reason, gains set properly. Can't get in touch with anyone whether audiocontrol or anyone else for repair
What is for this, car audio system or guitar amplifier?
All I want to know is the price.
$699 US retail
you know why they were always a separate unit? because amps burn out, the processors, crossovers etc would normally survive. soo to pay extra for an amp, which could (if your cheap) cost you more then a dsp and amp by them selves, to have 1 unit take out both? idk man
+ZelosZelo I have never had an amp burn out... Proper installation leads to reliability that will far outlast the vehicle. AudioControl also has a five year warranty when installed by a authorized dealer.
and a reliable amp, some of those out there are horrible. I know a couple of high end non-franchise shops that refuse a couple of amp brands (even if you buy them and bring them in), but wasnt here to trash, just saying, that possibility does exist, and my car is 20, well the one with the system ;), all the components still work, installed in the 90's, properly, by me.
I have Audio Control pieces well over 20 years old that work like day one. Rock Solid. My Audio Control RTA is over 20 years old. It actually looks like Caf's lol. Mark's
Personally I would keep DSP and amp seperate because of the DSP, not because of the amp.
Anything that connects to a computer is doomed to become obsolete because computers change incredibly fast. There is also no way to split the DSP and amp section as there are no pre-out/main-in bridges on this amp, you can't even set the gains without a compatible computer.
One of my Genesis Dual Mono's is now 20 years old, my other 3 are well over 10 years old, and I even have 4 original Soundstream Reference amps which were notorious for running very hot and fail easily...
All of the amps mentioned are still in working order with nothing but capacitor replacements as repairs (I prefer to call that regular maintenance on gear of that vintage), even though one of the younger Dual Mono's has been pushed hard and outside of its specifications (1.5ohm bridged load while only a minimum of 4ohm bridged is officially supported).
Candisa I would agree except for the fact that Audio Control has always been one to be on top of customer service. Computers change as well as products. There warranty is the best in the business. Like I said my AC RTA is ancient and they still are currently in production and still the go to for RTA's. They still produce all the parts and current mic's for them. Audio Control will always have software to work with there products.
I just recently purchased a power acoustik amp and every thing is connected but it still turns on protected I even changed all the wires and i still have the same problem can i get some more ideas, I did bridge a wire from power to amp remote and it does the same thing
manuel rodriguez get it professionally put in