The ECM sets I sell include a **new** key with the original chip inside, so you just have to get it cut to match your old one. The ignition switch assembly is held on with shear bolts rather than rivets, and IS a fucking PITA to remove...ask me how I know! That's why my sets include the new key, so you can just replace the immobilizer box instead of the whole switch (or column!). In a pinch, you can also tape the new key to the area around your ignition switch and use the old key to turn it until you get the new one cut.
@@isaiahmontano7516 I'm not in that business anymore, but I have some inventory in my crawl space, which I can check if you're in a pinch. Please tell me the year of your Civic, auto or 5-speed, and EX or non-EX.
@@isaiahmontano7516 I didn't think I'd have that one...but I do! Last one in stock. Computer, immo box and 2 brand new keys. I'd do the set for US$200, including (cheap) shipping to anywhere served by USPS. If you need it faster, we can talk about it. If that works for you, hit me up at parliament (punto) nil at gmail, and we'll get you fixed up. If you haven't yet, you will have to fix the alternator bolt/ground issue so as to not fry the new computer. I also recommend you get these new keys cut to code by a locksmith if you can UNLESS you have a like-new OEM Honda spare black-head key (not the grey valet key), in which case any place that can duplicate "laser"/"high security" keys is fine. For the code, you can just pop out the valet lock on the floor; locksmiths have software to decode that into the actual pinning. Cheers.
I disliked your video because you are stating that the only thing that causes limp mode is a bad ecu. Just because that was your problem doesn’t mean it will be others. There are many things that will cause the car to go limp. You can’t just tell people it’s their ecu and have them go spend money on that.
You can also desolder the EEPROM chip from your ECU and put it in the new ECU (or better idea, one you got from a pull your part lot or junk yard). That will fix the prob of immobilizer. You shld mention in this video that the decision to replace a PCM/ECU shld only be made after a thorough diagnostic assessment of EVERY other possible cause of whatever issue you're dealing with. That's how you diagnose a faulty ECU..by process of elimination..when it's the only thing left as a possibility. People you're risking blowing a lot of money if you listen to this guy! Find an ECU pinout for your particular vehicle and test all the circuits related to your issue..starting with grounds (resistance should be very low if any), powers(is there battery voltage at the +B terminals), and continuity in each circuit. Best advice search ScannerDanner channel on here..he'll steer you straight!
What kind of idiot would sit there testing circuits when you can just replace the ECU? As for desoldering the EEPROM, how many shadetree mechanics are gonna have the skills to do this? Go back to ITT Tech or whatever, kid. Ouf.
@@Copaceticangeldust you can but you need to reprogram your key somehow to the new ECU. If you don’t do that the car won’t start because of the immobilizer in the ignition.
Because you didn’t diagnose it 100%, or explain how since it COULD be other issues. Think of all the people that spent all that money on the part and it didn’t fix it. No hate. Title should just say “possible way to fix...”
Joe M Fair Enough, but limp mode is caused by a bad ECU isn't it? At least that's from all the videos and forums I went through trying to find out what was wrong with my car.
Lord_Trumoo Limp Mode is a safety mechanism to prevent further damage to the engine and components. Not necessarily a bad ecu. But in your case yours was fried as you stated. You took the easy way but the hardest route to get there in fixing it. When you could’ve done something like check the part first or the fuse vice-versa. Then the wires or hoses. After that, the relays and last the ecu.
Woah! My last name is Meza too! Anyway, I think that would work if he can program the key’s transponder to the ECU. That was the big reason I needed a key/ECU pair from the same car, I was trying to bypass the need for programming. Also I think the ring around the ignition was important too. There’s a guy in the comments that was selling a solution for this. He explains it well.
Dude all you had to do is reset the ecu and let the car idle about 20 minutes or let the car on so the fans turn on and off about 10 times so the ecu can self program it self . It happened to me because the car didn't have the battery for a while because I was working on the head gasket. So the ecu got un programmed
@@XLpacman805 it was a 10 plus a really long extension plus an 8 for the glove compartment then had to bend the plastic to get it out, pain in my ass!'
The video's solution would work for you, with the caveat that Accords have a separate immo computer on the floor under the radio, which you also need to -steal- buy from the scrapyard. EDIT: This also assumes the ECU is the problem. I don't know how common it is on the Accords, or if they have the alternator bolt issue the Civics do (the cause of virtually all Civic ECU failures).
@@raphaelbois2980 junk yard or eBay. Make sure it’s the same generation and door style. The 4door is a different ECU than the 2door. I believe there’s on a sticker with the ECU code on it.
Yessssss you just verified that my lost key is as easy as a trip to the wreckers for a steering column with a key and the ecu. Winnning :D
Thanks this helped me. letting me know exactly where my ecm was located before I had to guess. thanks.
Got my ecm unbolted. Can’t find room to get old one out. Any tips?
The ECM sets I sell include a **new** key with the original chip inside, so you just have to get it cut to match your old one. The ignition switch assembly is held on with shear bolts rather than rivets, and IS a fucking PITA to remove...ask me how I know! That's why my sets include the new key, so you can just replace the immobilizer box instead of the whole switch (or column!). In a pinch, you can also tape the new key to the area around your ignition switch and use the old key to turn it until you get the new one cut.
That sounds like a good a solution. I would've bought it instead of doing this.
Do you still sell? if so how do I order?
@@isaiahmontano7516 I'm not in that business anymore, but I have some inventory in my crawl space, which I can check if you're in a pinch. Please tell me the year of your Civic, auto or 5-speed, and EX or non-EX.
2004 Honda Civic Lx Manual
@@isaiahmontano7516 I didn't think I'd have that one...but I do! Last one in stock. Computer, immo box and 2 brand new keys. I'd do the set for US$200, including (cheap) shipping to anywhere served by USPS. If you need it faster, we can talk about it. If that works for you, hit me up at parliament (punto) nil at gmail, and we'll get you fixed up.
If you haven't yet, you will have to fix the alternator bolt/ground issue so as to not fry the new computer. I also recommend you get these new keys cut to code by a locksmith if you can UNLESS you have a like-new OEM Honda spare black-head key (not the grey valet key), in which case any place that can duplicate "laser"/"high security" keys is fine. For the code, you can just pop out the valet lock on the floor; locksmiths have software to decode that into the actual pinning. Cheers.
Who are the low lives who disliked my video? Show yourselves!
Lord_Trumoo I diss liked cause limp mode can be caused by several different things lol
dayton crawford that’s right. Could be a simple fix but in his case it was a fried ecu/pcm.
I disliked your video because you are stating that the only thing that causes limp mode is a bad ecu. Just because that was your problem doesn’t mean it will be others. There are many things that will cause the car to go limp. You can’t just tell people it’s their ecu and have them go spend money on that.
Dude has anybody told you that you sound like the cop from Super Troopers LMAO l that's pretty awesome but if out thanks
You can also desolder the EEPROM chip from your ECU and put it in the new ECU (or better idea, one you got from a pull your part lot or junk yard). That will fix the prob of immobilizer. You shld mention in this video that the decision to replace a PCM/ECU shld only be made after a thorough diagnostic assessment of EVERY other possible cause of whatever issue you're dealing with. That's how you diagnose a faulty ECU..by process of elimination..when it's the only thing left as a possibility.
People you're risking blowing a lot of money if you listen to this guy!
Find an ECU pinout for your particular vehicle and test all the circuits related to your issue..starting with grounds (resistance should be very low if any), powers(is there battery voltage at the +B terminals), and continuity in each circuit.
Best advice search ScannerDanner channel on here..he'll steer you straight!
What kind of idiot would sit there testing circuits when you can just replace the ECU? As for desoldering the EEPROM, how many shadetree mechanics are gonna have the skills to do this?
Go back to ITT Tech or whatever, kid. Ouf.
Appreciate the comment! This is essentially where I’m at since nearly everything else still ended up with the same limp mode outcome.
I did it work perfect now my problem is the vin number don’t mach I need for my state inspection
The ECU doesn't have a VIN on it, so...how would they know you changed it?
Im not no honda expert but i think your air bag was deployed
LOL!
I believe he was in process of stealing car and decide to make quicky u tube tutorial
Cam position sensor fixed my issue
Can you not switch out the ECU without doing the ignition etc
@@Copaceticangeldust you can but you need to reprogram your key somehow to the new ECU. If you don’t do that the car won’t start because of the immobilizer in the ignition.
I just did this and my car is still in limp mode.
Me too
@@esoto8741 get a different crank shaft position sensor, the one I had was short and didn't make enough contact. Bought on amazon
@@BrothaWowas it a system too lean code ?
You can "fix" anything without going to the dealer if you're just going drop in a new or pre-owned any and everything.
Clown comment.
You can just get it paired to your vehicle through a mapping centre
A used column is probably cheaper, lol.
Should our ECM be hanging out of the dash?
No it's behind the glove department tucked away in the back. It's a bitch to take out, just search for "04 civic ecm removal"
Because you didn’t diagnose it 100%, or explain how since it COULD be other issues.
Think of all the people that spent all that money on the part and it didn’t fix it.
No hate.
Title should just say “possible way to fix...”
Joe M Fair Enough, but limp mode is caused by a bad ECU isn't it? At least that's from all the videos and forums I went through trying to find out what was wrong with my car.
Lord_Trumoo Limp Mode is a safety mechanism to prevent further damage to the engine and components. Not necessarily a bad ecu. But in your case yours was fried as you stated. You took the easy way but the hardest route to get there in fixing it. When you could’ve done something like check the part first or the fuse vice-versa. Then the wires or hoses. After that, the relays and last the ecu.
I can’t get rid of mine .missfire codes keep popping.and tried everything.
Can you have a key man get u a key that goes with the ecu
Woah! My last name is Meza too! Anyway, I think that would work if he can program the key’s transponder to the ECU. That was the big reason I needed a key/ECU pair from the same car, I was trying to bypass the need for programming.
Also I think the ring around the ignition was important too. There’s a guy in the comments that was selling a solution for this. He explains it well.
Dude all you had to do is reset the ecu and let the car idle about 20 minutes or let the car on so the fans turn on and off about 10 times so the ecu can self program it self . It happened to me because the car didn't have the battery for a while because I was working on the head gasket. So the ecu got un programmed
Alex Montalvo how do you reset it ?
I’m having limp mode issues with my 2003 Honda Civic
@@Autofusionchannel with a car scanner
Well now you tell me!
@@alexmontalvo6411 You don't know what you're talking about. I'll leave it at that.
Ay what socket did Yu use to get the bolt from the back off the ecm?
I don't remember but I think it was a 12 or a 14. Just keep trying different metric sizes.
@@XLpacman805 it was a 10 plus a really long extension plus an 8 for the glove compartment then had to bend the plastic to get it out, pain in my ass!'
@@ericaperez3629 Yeah thats the worst part.
My 2003 accord is going into limp mode at 3400 RPM
The video's solution would work for you, with the caveat that Accords have a separate immo computer on the floor under the radio, which you also need to -steal- buy from the scrapyard.
EDIT: This also assumes the ECU is the problem. I don't know how common it is on the Accords, or if they have the alternator bolt issue the Civics do (the cause of virtually all Civic ECU failures).
Where can I get the same ecu in my car?
@@raphaelbois2980 junk yard or eBay. Make sure it’s the same generation and door style. The 4door is a different ECU than the 2door. I believe there’s on a sticker with the ECU code on it.
if you cant get the vin of the car to get the key cot
Get new ECU w/ keys and Ignition,
You have a 1/10,000 comment ratio lmao, horrible fix.
Joe M I'm curious why is it a bad fix?
This is wrong as hell it's cheaper to go the dealer, this extra as fuck.
You are dumb, and your fake Black English reinforces the point, Jim-Bob. I'll tell my uncle George to call you...he's probably your dad! 🤣