Question.....im going to be installing 3 separate mini splits in my house . The 3 condensers will be sitting next to each other on the outside of my home. Do i need to have 3 separate circuits for electricity?? Meaning each mini split condenser will have a separate circuit, breaker and disconnect. I have a 200 amp breaker box with enough openings to do it however i was wondering if there was a different way of running power to them having only one breaker in the panel and then separate disconnects outside. Thanks 😊
I’m sorry but can’t answer question unrelated to the my video. Any local licensed electrician should be able to help you with that according to local code and AHJ.
Some units can run (3) off one condenser. But to answer your question. You generally ( codes vary on location). Want to see what the total amp draw is. You want a dedicated circuit for the unit. You can run a 50 amp breaker with 8 gauge wire outside ( Yes I know that is costly, but I am just giving an example). That wire would be best ran to a ( sub panel box rated for outdoors). Each condenser can then be wired to an individually with the ability to disconnect right there at the box. And for a few dollars more I would put in a surge protector on the box to protect your equipment. $80.00 can protect your (3) units and save you thousands on a lighting strike. But, to each there own.
Yes, for a 120V that is correct. I have seen many people put the White (neutral) to the (ground lug). While technically if the "disconnect" is fused ( This one is not, it is just a pull out blade type, so understand that significant difference) you can "bond" the neutral to the ground if.....and if....it says ( bonded neutral on the box). In a "fuse" breaker failing to trip, the current on the neutral is then directed to the ground and thus returns to the main load center and back to the bonded ground/neutral bar there. But in short, he is one of the few that did it right.....for a 120V system. In a 240, you would generally have no neutral, most do not run a neutral wire to the box, but if you have only (2) conductors and they were black and white, you can mark the white in black or red markings and use it to feed a secondary hot line to the disconnect for the 120/120 ( 240) unit. if you had run a white neutral for a 240 system you would just cap that off. TMI :)
@@Rob-lr4cj I've seen prowfessunal HVAC installers use romex outdoors, no conduit, in Fredericksburg, VA. But they're missing both teeth and brain cells down there.
I am hooking one up with the exact disconnect wired the exact way as yours but there is no power moving through to the load wire. I CANNOT figure out why. Any ideas?
Sound like your box is missing the fuse in your quick disconnect. Pull the handle out, there is a slot for the fuse. Just make sure your fuse is matching the unit.
@@filibertollamas6094 Heres an idea. Get a muti-meter. Make sure you have current at the box coming in. pull out the disconnect handle. Stick the probe on the metal lug/bar where the line in is and the other probe to the box. Once you confirm power is coming into the box. Then stick the blade handle back in ( Making sure it is going in with the blades into the lugs, and that the blades are not damaged or broken so they can close the circuit. Then check that power is coming out of the box with the load lug. Same way . probe to lug and to box. If you have power there, then move to your condenser and check the power line in has power and probe to the power in wire and ground. If your showing power there, then your unit has a problem... Provided!!! The grounds are good. And the neutrals are good as well. Power needs to come in on the line and return to the breaker on the neutral. The ground is a backup wire.
i have this mini split but i don’t understand if it work with 120v or 220 v yours looks like mine , and this is the brand and the model COSTWAY® Split Type Room Air Conditioner Product Type MODEL Outdoor Unit FP10318US-12WH Vollage 208-230V~ Frequency/phase 60H2/1PH Cooling Capacity 18000Btu/h Heating Capacity 18700Btu/h Indoor Fan Motor Load 0.25A Outdoor Fan Motor Load 0.50A Total input current 12A Compressor RLA 6.6A Compressor LRA 28A Min .circuit Ampacity(MCA) 9.3A Max.fuse(Fusible Max.) 15A
Thank you you save my life
Wondering who not connect these two neutral wires to its Line and Load accordingly
Because this is 120V system, There is 1 load and 1 return. For 240V, then yes you put both in.
thank you this helped me
You’re welcome!
WHAT MODEL disconnect is that having trouble finding a "simple" looking disconnect
Hey there I have a mini split unit am trying to install both inside and outside pieces need to connect the breaker box.
Question.....im going to be installing 3 separate mini splits in my house . The 3 condensers will be sitting next to each other on the outside of my home. Do i need to have 3 separate circuits for electricity?? Meaning each mini split condenser will have a separate circuit, breaker and disconnect. I have a 200 amp breaker box with enough openings to do it however i was wondering if there was a different way of running power to them having only one breaker in the panel and then separate disconnects outside. Thanks 😊
I’m sorry but can’t answer question unrelated to the my video. Any local licensed electrician should be able to help you with that according to local code and AHJ.
Some units can run (3) off one condenser.
But to answer your question. You generally ( codes vary on location). Want to see what the total amp draw is. You want a dedicated circuit for the unit.
You can run a 50 amp breaker with 8 gauge wire outside ( Yes I know that is costly, but I am just giving an example).
That wire would be best ran to a ( sub panel box rated for outdoors).
Each condenser can then be wired to an individually with the ability to disconnect right there at the box.
And for a few dollars more I would put in a surge protector on the box to protect your equipment. $80.00 can protect your (3) units and save you thousands on a lighting strike.
But, to each there own.
What size wire gauge did you use, from panel to disconnect? And disconnect to Unit?
12 gauge
usually recommended to use a 20 Amp breaker, so 12 gauge is minimum.
Is it a 60 or 30 amp box
Romex in conduit outside?
Yes I know..
is that a 60 amp qwick disconnect?
why didn't you pull the disconnect to show what it is and explain the off and on of it?
Thanks
The white nuetrals need to be wired together and not in one of the slots?
Yes, for a 120V that is correct.
I have seen many people put the White (neutral) to the (ground lug). While technically if the "disconnect" is fused ( This one is not, it is just a pull out blade type, so understand that significant difference) you can "bond" the neutral to the ground if.....and if....it says ( bonded neutral on the box). In a "fuse" breaker failing to trip, the current on the neutral is then directed to the ground and thus returns to the main load center and back to the bonded ground/neutral bar there.
But in short, he is one of the few that did it right.....for a 120V system.
In a 240, you would generally have no neutral, most do not run a neutral wire to the box, but if you have only (2) conductors and they were black and white, you can mark the white in black or red markings and use it to feed a secondary hot line to the disconnect for the 120/120 ( 240) unit.
if you had run a white neutral for a 240 system you would just cap that off.
TMI :)
it is not legal to bond neutral and ground in this situation, you only disconnecting hot conductor just like in a switch.
9000 btu i have, wirex extension chord it amd pluhhed it in
Don't you have to the romex yellow insulation off?
As you see the insulation is off. For this video I’ve decided to show a bit of insulation so viewers can se that I’m using 12ga wire as required.
That is a code violation. Romex isn't allowed outdoors. Even in conduit. Be careful watching these DIY videos.
@@Rob-lr4cj I've seen prowfessunal HVAC installers use romex outdoors, no conduit, in Fredericksburg, VA. But they're missing both teeth and brain cells down there.
@@ShemstaElectricialwhat’s the model number? ????
I am hooking one up with the exact disconnect wired the exact way as yours but there is no power moving through to the load wire. I CANNOT figure out why. Any ideas?
Sound like your box is missing the fuse in your quick disconnect. Pull the handle out, there is a slot for the fuse. Just make sure your fuse is matching the unit.
But what if it’s a fuse less and still has the same problem? It’s 110 should I wire it up the same way as the video ?
@@filibertollamas6094 Heres an idea.
Get a muti-meter. Make sure you have current at the box coming in. pull out the disconnect handle. Stick the probe on the metal lug/bar where the line in is and the other probe to the box.
Once you confirm power is coming into the box. Then stick the blade handle back in ( Making sure it is going in with the blades into the lugs, and that the blades are not damaged or broken so they can close the circuit.
Then check that power is coming out of the box with the load lug. Same way . probe to lug and to box.
If you have power there, then move to your condenser and check the power line in has power and probe to the power in wire and ground.
If your showing power there, then your unit has a problem... Provided!!!
The grounds are good. And the neutrals are good as well.
Power needs to come in on the line and return to the breaker on the neutral. The ground is a backup wire.
@@wiley0714i have exactly the same problem thank you
i have this mini split but i don’t understand if it work with 120v or 220 v yours looks like mine , and this is the brand and the model
COSTWAY®
Split Type Room Air Conditioner
Product Type
MODEL
Outdoor Unit
FP10318US-12WH
Vollage
208-230V~
Frequency/phase
60H2/1PH
Cooling Capacity
18000Btu/h
Heating Capacity
18700Btu/h
Indoor Fan Motor Load
0.25A
Outdoor Fan Motor Load
0.50A
Total input current
12A
Compressor RLA
6.6A
Compressor LRA
28A
Min .circuit Ampacity(MCA)
9.3A
Max.fuse(Fusible Max.)
15A