@@andrewlaughbon9468 It is good to buy top quality tools and keep them for life but there is nothing wrong with starting out on a budget and trying to find quality cheaper tools.
The problem is, he shows you how to refurbish and sharpen cheap tools, then shows you how to use them, then everybody goes on Ebay to buy them and the values go through the roof! Router planes for example, so now he has to show you how to make them yourself!
@@bighands69 but on the other hand, a handmade tool has so much more meaning. What I wouldn't pay if I could have access to my grandfather's tools or my grand-grandfather's tools.
There are youtube woodworkers that would try to sell you this guide, Paul shows you how to make one. That's what makes him so special! Thank you, Paul.
Paul is the real deal. He is who he appears to be. Take a class with him in person if you ever get a chance. You’ll leave the class with much more than just woodworking skills.
I've watched many other woodworkers on TH-cam alongside Paul Sellers, but none other than Paul himself are able to turn the lights on inside my mind and inspire me to get up and try it. His unique approach is closest to the everyday of life as it gets, and the simplicity in his methods, yet the sheer beauty of his work is what makes it seem possible for the ordinary person to accomplish new feats in the art of woodworking. Thank you Paul!
I agree Paul has some great ideas for easier ways to achieve things. But at the end of the day, practice makes improvements. The more practice the easier it gets 👍. Jamie
yeh, but some of the things he does sometimes appear deceivingly simple. I thought I understood what he was doing with his "how to cut square" videos but I couldn't get it right. Eventually I realized what he was doing and it kind of blew my mind. I can now cut within a 1-2 mm square just with a saw consistently. alot of these videos are worth re-watching over and over.
I've just done my first week of a joinery course (at interview told no prep required) - and find myself struggling, as the tutor is so brief & quick, that I'm making sooo many errors, because I have no grasp of the basics - this clip is incredibly helpful (I didn't know about the behaviour of the grain). I've been using these videos to learn and UNDERSTAND, and the course will be for practice. You have no idea what a gift your expertise and calm teaching is. Many thanks
This did sadden me, Angela. So sorry you have to learn from an arrogant tutor when this should be a joyful time of learning for you. Persevere though, most of my learning came in times spent alone with a saw and a plane and some wood and I have learned more in the last ten years from simply making than I did in the previous 45.
What I love about this is that since it's so simple and quick to make a new one, you can just have an ever-expanding collection for when you run into one you haven't had before.
I am currently making a wine rack with all M&T joinery. A small voice in my head whispered to me “Paul has shown us how to do this…” I have learned So much valuable knowledge from Paul! Thank you.
I've never been particularly good at chopping mortices freehand. This little gadget is a game-changer. Simple, but very very useful. Thank you also for the tip about using a router plane for trimming tenon cheeks. Works a treat. 😊
Love a clever little jig like this, often simple little things like this can make a huge difference to how quick and/or accurate you can make a piece. I made a gate a couple of years ago and made some spacers to get consistent gaps between the uprights when I was nailing them - so much quicker than measuring the gap every time and made it super simple to get things clamped in the right spot
If you glue a couple of magnets in one you can use the same type of guide for cutting bridle joints or tenons with a panel (or tenon) saw. Clamp the guide to your workpiece and the magnets will keep the saw perpendicular as you cut down the joint and keep the two sides of a tenon the same thickness. If you account for kerf thickness, you could even create a matching set of guides for mortice and tenon, which should get you within shoulder plane distance of a perfect joint.
@@lukthere2 I meant to say in my original post that I didn't think of it! I saw it somewhere, but can't credit to the rightful person as I don't remember where.
It's always refreshing when a tip or tutorial isn't trying to sell me a $140 chisel, a $90 mallet, an $80 marking gauge, a $250 saw.... In fact, it didn't try to sell me anything, it gave it away for free.
You never cease to impress! As a retired manufacturing engineer and life long woodworker I am drawn to simplistic and effective work methods and brother you deliver both. Thanks
I've just finished four 1/4 mortises in my bench lower leg stretcher ends. These are mortises for the long tenons to use tusks in the ends. The walls of the full tenon were @ 3/16 so used two tall, thin scraps of wood clamped to the sides of the tenon to both support these walls from splitting and to provide visual guides to keep the chisel straight. Worked a treat!
Thanks Paul. This is also a great use for scraps of wood (and plywood) that otherwise might be destined for the wastebin. I'm guessing two or three sizes would would cover 95% of my potential needs.
This works great. Watch out what chisels you buy if you want to use this. I have some Narex chisels that are tapered in width, so one time all the mortises in my table legs were very consistently at the wrong angle. Luckily the table pulled square while glueing up. I bought some new chisels so I can use this method.
This will be enormously helpful. I have to hammer some 3" deep through mortices, and I know from past experience how badly astray my chisel work has gone. Thanks once again, Paul.
An elegant solution! Bravo! I'll be sending this to work and knocking up a set for the college wood room. (And maybe a few for the home woodworkers on staff while I'm at it!) There's a project or two where this would be a real benefit the young folks. Thank you Paul!
Paul there will be a wonderful Wood work Shop waiting for you in paradise also, you are a real Gentleman Wood Worker who likes sharing. God bless you, thanks for the beautiful idea, which never came to my mind in the past 50 years. Thanks.
Hmm, think I saw this on Sawmill Creek too.... I had imagined one that worked like the Fence on a rabbet plane so you could clamp it to the wood, and have variable shoulder distances, so more of a one size fits all situation. This works too.
another benefit is when you turn the piece over the go from the other side you will be at the exact distance from the edge. which I rarely am from measurements for some reason 😧
With mortise and tenon with the use of dovetails you can make anything you desire. Lapping joints are also an excellent joint as well and box/finger joints.
I made a set last year and they are excellent! No more crooked mortises. Many other TH-camrs would try to sell you these, but Paul shows you how to make your own.
Very handy tip, thank you, Paul. Question: would you advise to hone the chisel's flanking sides (touching the jig) from the manufacturing on the diamond plates to reduce friction here? Does that work without relevant width reduction?
Thanks, Paul. I loved this on your Woodworking Master Classes videos ( I highly encourage all to subscribe to those!) I know you wouldn't need to do this yourself, but can you envision a situation where it might be beneficial for a novice or even intermediate woodworker to use two of these guides at once, or would that just create too much of a mess? I know on some work pieces this might mean that the two guides would need to be different sizes. Just a thought I had when I saw you use the larger chisel to clean up the wall at the end of the video. Thanks!
Very handy jig indeed. Paul, you don't strike me as a Japanese water-stone man. How do you get that edge onto your chisles. I potter around here, not getting it quite right, but thinking how wonderful a truley sharp edge onto a tool. All the best, with the house and all....
David, Paul has some videos on his channel that show how he sharpens various tools. That should answer your question, plus you get to watch more of Paul Sellers being Paul Sellers. Win-win!
If you marked out with mortise gauge, this could be problematic because it might not align. I wonder if Paul thinks to just move mortise over to accommodate guide where possible.Sometimes I think he thinks we are smarter than we are.
I think that is the case. One thing you could do is make a knife wall with the guide, the it would be easy to set up marking gauge for other line. I have hesitated making these because it seems like a lot of variables not taken into account.
Thank you, Paul. I notice you are using a standard bench chisel to mortice. Do you not recommend a morticing chisel? It seams that the bench chisel would be too thin for the job. Thanks.
Paul did a video on it. Something with if you need that much iron to leaver out the wood, you need to take less to keep it nice anyway. So the standard chisel will suffise. This might not be accurate, it’s from the top of my head. To be sure, search for a video “how to chop a mortise” on the channel.
QUESTION: Paul, do you have any book you feel is your best book to date (2022) for whatever reason? Do you have plans to write the "Swiss Army Knife" of Woodworking by Hand book - the bible of hand woodworking? Yes, I submitted info. ("Paul Sellers & Company LTD") for futures book(s) and hope to see your best yet. Because; don't we always improve? (JF)
I might try and make a set of these one day. When I made the bench I managed to get away without it. I felt like I wanted to avoid things like this to force me to build my own muscle memory, although the bench legs were my first ever mortice and tenon joints (with the exception of two badly-made practice pieces in much thinner stock), so while it worked, they're not exactly perfect. Does a jig like this make it more important that your mortice gauge lines are spot-on centred on the board, though? Or would you set your mortice gauge to the jig and ensure you always work from the right side in case it's off-centre slightly?
I wouldn't even use a mortice guage if I was using this type of guide. Just mark the two ends and then use the guide itself to strike a line once in the vice (both sides). That way you won't get any discrepancy between the marked line and the final mortice.
@@ricos1497 But part of the value of using the gauge is that it matches the width of your chisel, and allows you to easily make a tenon of the same width. Thus you can't use this guide on both sides.
@@neilbarnwell yes, I see what you mean. I have to admit, I normally use a guage like this as a reference for a final paring of the side walls of the mortice rather than exactly the way Paul does it here. I usually use a slightly undersized chisel where possible and use the guage to mark either side of the mortice, cut the mortice like Paul does, using the guage for the inside face. Then I flip the guage and use it as a reference to pare down the far side. My jigs aren't the same height as Paul's because of this, but it still guides the vertical pretty well.
@@neilbarnwell Many people never use a mortise gauge and instead use a single line to mark the mortise. The width of mortise will equal chisel width. With a jig like this the mortises are all the same distance from the reference face so it wouldn’t necessarily need to be centered.
Of course Paul's set of just five of these guides in their little stand looks better than anything I've ever made.
I love that Paul Sellers doesn't hype expensive tools.
To add to that. Often times he points out the reasons why you shouldn't bother with out even saying anything. It just works.
@@andrewlaughbon9468
It is good to buy top quality tools and keep them for life but there is nothing wrong with starting out on a budget and trying to find quality cheaper tools.
The problem is, he shows you how to refurbish and sharpen cheap tools, then shows you how to use them, then everybody goes on Ebay to buy them and the values go through the roof! Router planes for example, so now he has to show you how to make them yourself!
@@bighands69 but on the other hand, a handmade tool has so much more meaning. What I wouldn't pay if I could have access to my grandfather's tools or my grand-grandfather's tools.
Yes, keeps it straight forward and simple. Love the man makes us all feel that we can be woodworkers. Lol
There are youtube woodworkers that would try to sell you this guide, Paul shows you how to make one. That's what makes him so special! Thank you, Paul.
Because he is a Gentleman.
Paul is the real deal. He is who he appears to be. Take a class with him in person if you ever get a chance. You’ll leave the class with much more than just woodworking skills.
Funny how some people would even buy two pieces of wood glued together when theyre into woodworking anyway
There are TH-cam woodworkers that will take Pauls ideas and push them on their own channels without giving him the slightest bit of credit.
I've watched many other woodworkers on TH-cam alongside Paul Sellers, but none other than Paul himself are able to turn the lights on inside my mind and inspire me to get up and try it. His unique approach is closest to the everyday of life as it gets, and the simplicity in his methods, yet the sheer beauty of his work is what makes it seem possible for the ordinary person to accomplish new feats in the art of woodworking. Thank you Paul!
I agree Paul has some great ideas for easier ways to achieve things. But at the end of the day, practice makes improvements. The more practice the easier it gets 👍. Jamie
yeh, but some of the things he does sometimes appear deceivingly simple. I thought I understood what he was doing with his "how to cut square" videos but I couldn't get it right. Eventually I realized what he was doing and it kind of blew my mind. I can now cut within a 1-2 mm square just with a saw consistently. alot of these videos are worth re-watching over and over.
Paul talks like you're actually infront of him, not like he's talking to a camera, I think that's what makes his videos a cut above the rest
Paul is the only one that upload all the process without any cuts of " not so good" parts.
Another Awesome tip and tutorial, Paul has probably forgotten more than most will ever know about wood working.
I've just done my first week of a joinery course (at interview told no prep required) - and find myself struggling, as the tutor is so brief & quick, that I'm making sooo many errors, because I have no grasp of the basics - this clip is incredibly helpful (I didn't know about the behaviour of the grain). I've been using these videos to learn and UNDERSTAND, and the course will be for practice. You have no idea what a gift your expertise and calm teaching is. Many thanks
This did sadden me, Angela. So sorry you have to learn from an arrogant tutor when this should be a joyful time of learning for you. Persevere though, most of my learning came in times spent alone with a saw and a plane and some wood and I have learned more in the last ten years from simply making than I did in the previous 45.
What I love about this is that since it's so simple and quick to make a new one, you can just have an ever-expanding collection for when you run into one you haven't had before.
I am currently making a wine rack with all M&T joinery. A small voice in my head whispered to me “Paul has shown us how to do this…”
I have learned So much valuable knowledge from Paul! Thank you.
I just wanted to say thank you, here, for all the team does, all you do. I couldn’t do what I can now, if it weren’t for you.
I've never been particularly good at chopping mortices freehand. This little gadget is a game-changer. Simple, but very very useful.
Thank you also for the tip about using a router plane for trimming tenon cheeks. Works a treat. 😊
So simple & genius at the same time. Thank you Paul.
Love a clever little jig like this, often simple little things like this can make a huge difference to how quick and/or accurate you can make a piece. I made a gate a couple of years ago and made some spacers to get consistent gaps between the uprights when I was nailing them - so much quicker than measuring the gap every time and made it super simple to get things clamped in the right spot
If you glue a couple of magnets in one you can use the same type of guide for cutting bridle joints or tenons with a panel (or tenon) saw. Clamp the guide to your workpiece and the magnets will keep the saw perpendicular as you cut down the joint and keep the two sides of a tenon the same thickness. If you account for kerf thickness, you could even create a matching set of guides for mortice and tenon, which should get you within shoulder plane distance of a perfect joint.
Genius
@@lukthere2 I meant to say in my original post that I didn't think of it! I saw it somewhere, but can't credit to the rightful person as I don't remember where.
I think I've seen Adrian Preda make something like that for dovetails if I remember right.
@@ricos1497 Richard Maguire makes a set of bridle joint guides like you’re describing.
@@vh9040 yes! That's it. Thanks.
Super easy jig to make and gives a beginner a huge confidence boost!
Thanks!
It's always refreshing when a tip or tutorial isn't trying to sell me a $140 chisel, a $90 mallet, an $80 marking gauge, a $250 saw.... In fact, it didn't try to sell me anything, it gave it away for free.
You never cease to impress! As a retired manufacturing engineer and life long woodworker I am drawn to simplistic and effective work methods and brother you deliver both. Thanks
So I made my first mortise today and used the guide. It came out perfectly. Thank you Mr. Seller.
This is brilliant. I often find I wander ever so slightly between my lines. Perfect way to stop that. Thank you
Thanks, Mr. Paul Sellers for yet, another great tip... I've been a follower since 2014 I think, and learned a lot from you.
This works great especially in harder woods where you need to use more force. Thanks Paul.
I've just finished four 1/4 mortises in my bench lower leg stretcher ends. These are mortises for the long tenons to use tusks in the ends. The walls of the full tenon were @ 3/16 so used two tall, thin scraps of wood clamped to the sides of the tenon to both support these walls from splitting and to provide visual guides to keep the chisel straight.
Worked a treat!
Thanks Paul. This is also a great use for scraps of wood (and plywood) that otherwise might be destined for the wastebin. I'm guessing two or three sizes would would cover 95% of my potential needs.
This works great. Watch out what chisels you buy if you want to use this. I have some Narex chisels that are tapered in width, so one time all the mortises in my table legs were very consistently at the wrong angle. Luckily the table pulled square while glueing up. I bought some new chisels so I can use this method.
This will be enormously helpful. I have to hammer some 3" deep through mortices, and I know from past experience how badly astray my chisel work has gone. Thanks once again, Paul.
I am baffled by the genious in this simplicity.
As always great content! I’m so happy I found you years ago. Were it not for you I would not know the joy of woodworking!
Ingenious!
I'm getting into hand tool work more and this should help me learn!
Perfect!
Last weekend I used the similar way to build the fence for my joiner plane for perpendicular plaining.
Craftsmanship at its best.Thankyou for sharing and teaching us mere mortals.
An elegant solution! Bravo!
I'll be sending this to work and knocking up a set for the college wood room. (And maybe a few for the home woodworkers on staff while I'm at it!) There's a project or two where this would be a real benefit the young folks.
Thank you Paul!
Another great idea from Paul-Thanks for all your knowledge!
Great little tool, I am looking to make a double sided one, 1/4" and 1/2", and some shims to adjust the offset.
Paul there will be a wonderful Wood work Shop waiting for you in paradise also, you are a real Gentleman Wood Worker who likes sharing. God bless you, thanks for the beautiful idea, which never came to my mind in the past 50 years. Thanks.
This will be helpful. I’m gathering tools and materials to make the workbench. This should come in handy
Wow, the years of knowledge you share with us.
I picked this up years ago via a Richard Maguire / Helen Fisher video and they are great.
I'd wish I have seen this video several years ago. Great idea.
Love it great idea thank you for sharing this with us today from Henrico County Virginia
thank you Paul for sharing your knowledge and talent. You are a terrific resource and such a calming presence.
Parabéns Sr Paul, sempre com excelentes conteúdos! UMA VERDADEIRA AULA !
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Hmm, think I saw this on Sawmill Creek too.... I had imagined one that worked like the Fence on a rabbet plane so you could clamp it to the wood, and have variable shoulder distances, so more of a one size fits all situation. This works too.
This is a REALLY good idea!!!
That's brilliant, Paul! 😃
Thanks for the tip!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you Paul for a very handy aid to good mortises.
HI Paul so simple but so so good. weldone
You're a treasure Mr sellers!!!
Thank you, Paul. Just... thank you.
what a great tool guide. Thank you Paul.
Thank you for sharing with us Paul.
another benefit is when you turn the piece over the go from the other side you will be at the exact distance from the edge.
which I rarely am from measurements for some reason 😧
Some of those will appear here presently. Thanks!
I wish I knew this trick earlier. I was digging a 4inch deep through mortice and messed up so many times. The mortise always took on an angle
Try do it with more shallow mortice at first to get the feel for it. And as you build those skills you can go deeper.
Mortise and tenons are my favorite joint, so I’m always looking for simple ways to improve them! I’ll have to try this out before my next project!
With mortise and tenon with the use of dovetails you can make anything you desire. Lapping joints are also an excellent joint as well and box/finger joints.
@@bighands69 I’ve got the mortise and tenon down well. Dovetails? Not so much yet
Very useful and creative, good idea my bro.
I made a set last year and they are excellent! No more crooked mortises. Many other TH-camrs would try to sell you these, but Paul shows you how to make your own.
Awesome idea, will be building a set!
That's a clever idea. Thanks Paul.
Simply perfect! Thanks!
Great little jig mate
Another brilliant idea thank you
Love it Paul. Just LOVE IT!!
I think you as a teacher they will turn out awesome students great idea to
He makes it look so damn easy lol. Great video.
I used it! My first table had 16 straight mortises!
Love it, thank you. I thought about making something similar now, you've inspired to do so. Again, thank you. Cheers :)
Very handy tool!
Thank you for the tip, Master!
Thanks Paul. A great help to me.
nice idea
A simple tool guide that will indeed be used ! Because isn't simple better?
Life is. The simple things 👍👍👍
So clever, thanks !
Great idea!! Thanks for sharing!!
Very handy tip, thank you, Paul.
Question: would you advise to hone the chisel's flanking sides (touching the jig) from the manufacturing on the diamond plates to reduce friction here?
Does that work without relevant width reduction?
Always thinking.
Thanks Paul
A great Idea 😃
Thanks!
Paul do you use the guide itself and knife to mark/score the mortise rather than using a marking gauge and chance it that the guide won’t line up?
You could make it with sliding wedges and have an adjustable one.
If I had to build a set which sizes would you suggest?
Thanks, Paul. I loved this on your Woodworking Master Classes videos ( I highly encourage all to subscribe to those!)
I know you wouldn't need to do this yourself, but can you envision a situation where it might be beneficial for a novice or even intermediate woodworker to use two of these guides at once, or would that just create too much of a mess? I know on some work pieces this might mean that the two guides would need to be different sizes. Just a thought I had when I saw you use the larger chisel to clean up the wall at the end of the video.
Thanks!
Paul can you flip the guide to the other side of the work piece and thus guarantee a perfectly centered mortise?
Very handy jig indeed. Paul, you don't strike me as a Japanese water-stone man. How do you get that edge onto your chisles. I potter around here, not getting it quite right, but thinking how wonderful a truley sharp edge onto a tool. All the best, with the house and all....
David, Paul has some videos on his channel that show how he sharpens various tools. That should answer your question, plus you get to watch more of Paul Sellers being Paul Sellers. Win-win!
EZe Lap Diamond Stones
Brilliant
Awesome!
Perfect
If you marked out with mortise gauge, this could be problematic because it might not align. I wonder if Paul thinks to just move mortise over to accommodate guide where possible.Sometimes I think he thinks we are smarter than we are.
I think that is the case. One thing you could do is make a knife wall with the guide, the it would be easy to set up marking gauge for other line. I have hesitated making these because it seems like a lot of variables not taken into account.
brilliant!
I was worried something had happened to you, been so long!
Thank you, Paul. I notice you are using a standard bench chisel to mortice. Do you not recommend a morticing chisel? It seams that the bench chisel would be too thin for the job. Thanks.
Go back 9 years in Paul’s extensive video library and search for “mortice chisel vs bevel edged chisel”.
Paul did a video on it.
Something with if you need that much iron to leaver out the wood, you need to take less to keep it nice anyway.
So the standard chisel will suffise.
This might not be accurate, it’s from the top of my head. To be sure, search for a video “how to chop a mortise” on the channel.
@@bertbergers9171 He also concluded the mortise chisel was slower.
What is a flush wood door?
QUESTION: Paul, do you have any book you feel is your best book to date (2022) for whatever reason? Do you have plans to write the "Swiss Army Knife" of Woodworking by Hand book - the bible of hand woodworking? Yes, I submitted info. ("Paul Sellers & Company LTD") for futures book(s) and hope to see your best yet. Because; don't we always improve? (JF)
I might try and make a set of these one day. When I made the bench I managed to get away without it. I felt like I wanted to avoid things like this to force me to build my own muscle memory, although the bench legs were my first ever mortice and tenon joints (with the exception of two badly-made practice pieces in much thinner stock), so while it worked, they're not exactly perfect. Does a jig like this make it more important that your mortice gauge lines are spot-on centred on the board, though? Or would you set your mortice gauge to the jig and ensure you always work from the right side in case it's off-centre slightly?
I wouldn't even use a mortice guage if I was using this type of guide. Just mark the two ends and then use the guide itself to strike a line once in the vice (both sides). That way you won't get any discrepancy between the marked line and the final mortice.
@@ricos1497 But part of the value of using the gauge is that it matches the width of your chisel, and allows you to easily make a tenon of the same width. Thus you can't use this guide on both sides.
@@neilbarnwell yes, I see what you mean. I have to admit, I normally use a guage like this as a reference for a final paring of the side walls of the mortice rather than exactly the way Paul does it here. I usually use a slightly undersized chisel where possible and use the guage to mark either side of the mortice, cut the mortice like Paul does, using the guage for the inside face. Then I flip the guage and use it as a reference to pare down the far side. My jigs aren't the same height as Paul's because of this, but it still guides the vertical pretty well.
@@neilbarnwell Many people never use a mortise gauge and instead use a single line to mark the mortise. The width of mortise will equal chisel width. With a jig like this the mortises are all the same distance from the reference face so it wouldn’t necessarily need to be centered.
@V H yes I understand that. This technique doesn't help match the thickness of the tenon, though.
Any reason not to put, say, 10 mm on one side and 20 mm on the other and have a double purpose guide?
Puedes poner subtitulos en español?
Genius
Switched my phone on and there you are.
Teach a man to fish.... thanks Paul!
That "hard-wearing surface" looks like Osage Orange to me. Have I spotted correctly?