That’s why I decided to change my channel name to: “Like Factory Made” 😄 Thank you! I am here because of guys like you who have inspired me to start this journey!
This is fantastic!! I tried to source some sort of retracting rolling mechanism before building mine, but making your own was exactly what this idea needs. You solved every problem that kept me from attempting this. 😄
im tired, gotta lay dwn an take a nap after this. l been to 3 county fairs, never seen nothing to beat it. your yt is light years ahead of many many others. thanks mister! im just watching, i have a tiny harbor freight china lathe.
Thank you! Appreciate your feedback! I was just responding to a previous comment that so far I like how it behaves and it passed my initial tests. I noticed that when I am making fine chips, as I get closer to the spindle, the spring does not have enough tension to always pull back the cover, so there will be an upgrade to this where I build the other pulling mechanism that I am talking about in the video. Also got some interesting ideas about building a rail with small holes through which I blow out air when the cross slide moves toward Z- Just waiting for the time to implement all my ideas :D
@@LikeFactoryMade I have so much respect for someone who hand scrapes their own slide ways. This is the home machinist content people, including myself, love to see. Subbed and excited to see what you continue to do!
@@seasaw40Thank you! Indeed it was A LOT of work but I am quite pleased with it. I am still not sure 100% if I will keep the slides as they are or if I wanna put turcite on them. I would not care at all about all the work I've put in if I knew for sure that the best approach is turcite, I would not mind milling all the scraping to make room for turcite. At least I've learned a new skill. I bought the turcite, I have everything I need, but some machinist folks said that it would be sad to mill the scraped surfaces and add turcite. On the other side, being a hobbyist, I accumulated 3 hours of SpindleOn time since may. So with enhanced oiling, low usage + way covers, I think I am safe at least for now! :)
Thank you! I feel flattered when people like you are finding this content inspiring 😊 I you are one of the channels that kept fueling my passion for tinkering and metal working! Thanks for the inspiration!
I have looked at this video several times now and your design for the roller retracting way cover is just about perfect. I had done some experimenting with a retracting roller design on both my lathe and on my benchtop milling machine but struggled to find a suitable material for the cover itself. I have tried thin industrial rubber sheet and the EPDM rubber sheet used to cover flat roofs but all these rubber based materials do not cope well with oil or coolant contamination. This material you have shown us here is perfect for the job. It would seem that a lot of the components for a system like this would be very suitable for 3d printing.
Indeed, for a half a year since I’m using it, it behaves very well. I will have a future video where I’ll add other retraction mechanism, as the spring does not have constant pulling force. Other than that it behaves as I hoped it will. Yes, if your model fits within the print bed, it is suitable for 3d printing. But for this kind of projects, I prefer metal. Ideally it would have been some surface ground steel, with a tempered blue color 😋
Simply wonderful. I currently have an accordion-style cover on my Hardinge HLVH that has been ground, etc. and it wants to bunch up when the carriage is near the headstock. Your video makes me think I can improve it. Thank you and well done.
Absolutely lovely! Truly like it was designed in from the start. It's so simple that all decent lathes should come with this, it's not like it would be hard to replace the belt if damaged, and a lot of good wiper profiles are basically standardised rubber products. I guess the only improvement could be to stop abrasive dust floating in from underneath, but that would need such a massive change to the carriage that it would have to be designed in from the factory, and probably only worth it on machines doing a lot of grinding anyway.
Thank you for your kind comments. 😊 Indeed, its quite difficult to fully protect the ways. The lathe would need to be designed totally different. One of the coolest lathes that has addressed this is Schaublin CCN 180, there they have a telescopic steel cover, that goes under the headstock. So basically the headstock is sitting on the bed of the lathe only on the back and on the front, while on the middle it has a gap and the telescopic cover is passing though that opening. I like that design, but for the rest 99% of the lathes, we need a different solution.
Gaw`dayum, this is a proper renzettification of a lathe... Remarkably nicely done... The pulley system idea for the actuation is even better, but as you said, you had no time for it and this was a prototype... I mean, i`m almost speechless, which happens around as often as a full blackout of the sun... I`ve seen quite a few way cover videos, and of them all, maybe 5 in total have pleased me to the point of commendation and desire to either replicate the design or adapt some features into my own designs... This one is in those 5 videos... I would have considered a way to make the chip-guard curve downwards, rather than being a flat sheet, as chips and abrasive crap has a remarkable tendency to defy gravity and physics in it`s pursuit of precise surfaces to ruin, but alas, your cross-slide guarding is supreme in that aspect... All that being said, i would not have used aluminium for the sheet housing or any parts really, just for the dissimilar metals issue potentially with that block resting against the ways... I tend to solely use alu on alu parts, inox on inox and for cast iron, regular steel and brass/bronze, i`m fine mixing those together, but inox and alu, well, those i tend to treat as troublesome at best... Anodizing and all other metal treatments notwithstanding... I would likely have gone with a same slab of regular steel, but as a finishing step, i would have heat oxidized it to a spotty gentle purple, purple and dark blue before letting it cool below the smoke point and would have dunked it in oil to glaze and seal the oxides... It`s a `yuge part to heat blue, but the bigger the better, as there is more surface for the pornography that is oxide finish to manifest on... All the best and kindest regards! Steuss Oh, btw, you have earned a sub dear machinist brother...
An ingenious and not strictly obvious compact approach to an annoying issue. A minor benefit is that the wiper torsion springs apply a tiny amount of backlash compensation. Not much but some. Any thanks.
@LikeFactoryMade I like it. Given that on a manual (not CNC) lathe you sometimes machine between centers on the tailstock side, would a tailstock way cover of this style be reasonable? Also would this kind of way cover be suitable if you're using a tool post-mounted grinder
For the tailstock side, I could not find a solution that would still allow to use it properly on all part lengths. At least for my machine configuration, it can’t be done, especially if I want to keep the same width of 280mm for a 200mm wide bed. Regarding the toolpost grinder, covering the ways was one of the prerequisite steps for that kind of project that will come in the future. I have all the parts for it, I just need the time to put it all together.
Very nice! I'm going to try this for my lathe. I bought the accordian style and didn't like it. I subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work. Mick
I would have liked to see more details of the torsion spring. Any idea where to get a similar one? I bought accordion style way covers for my emco from Ebay. They were nice except the first time I tried hard turning chips melted them. Also cleaning the folds of the accordion was a pain. Your solution is better.
Unfortunately, I don't have any specs for the torsion spring, I had it laying around the shop so among the others I had, this seemed to fit better. The setup that you saw was more like the testing phase for me. I wanted to see if cover is behaving as expected and so far it seems it does. But when there are small chips like for cast iron, the friction force between the wiper and the sheet becomes higher, and since the pulling force is not constant across the entire length, it sometimes lifts up and it needs a little help in getting rolled back. I will switch to the other solution presented in the video now that its confirmed to work as expected. That solution has always a constant pulling force, but implementing that has a few challenges too. But that will be a separate video so stay tuned! 😉
The white painted cover on top, has some sort of wiper that contacts she stainless cover. It is not as efficient as the rubber ones, but there is not such a big problem because there is no guideway underneath those. There is just the ballscrew and the servomotor, and the chips can fall because its open on the bottom. I will do some checks after a few months and see how it behaves.
@@LikeFactoryMade The whole job is super impressive; I've saved this for when I get around to CNCing my mill. Thanks for taking the time to make the video
I have a wiper mounted which won't allow any chips o get inside the mechanism. Its the same wiper as I used for the X axis protection. However after a few months of use, I discovered that if I tighten the wiper more firmly, the pulling force is not big enough when the sheet gets dirty with fine chips. So in a follow up video, I will build the other mechanism of retraction. The initial goal was to test how this kind of wiper works without creating an over-engineered solution just to discover that it doesn't work. Now that the stage one is complete, I can proceed with stage two. I also got some ideas to some compressed air blowing chips when the carriage moves toward Z- but maybe that will be in stage 3 :D Here you can see the installation of the wiper I am talking about: th-cam.com/video/ZDNUJDywuuE/w-d-xo.html
I have the same wiper I used for the X axis protection, you can see it here: th-cam.com/video/ZDNUJDywuuE/w-d-xo.html Without that wiper, it would clog up in a few minutes. Actually when I've accidentally found a wiper like this, I got the idea of building a way cover like this one 😄
You can take a picture from dead on looking the rails. Then draw the shape over the image and scale it using width etc. You can also take multiple images and make a STL in Meshroom. This will also need to be scaled.
Damn, you are right! I’ve used this approach when I built the chuck cover, but it didn’t crossed my mind to use it for the ways profile 😅 Thanks for bringing this up! 😄
Minus diameter capacity. Shavings will accumulate on this curtain instead fall to the pan. And metal beard can catch this curtain and rip it off. But it looks and acts cool :)
After about 6 months since I installed it, it seems it works ok. I will need to make another video where I replace the torsion spring with the other mechanism that I was talking about. Yes, there is the risk that some birds nest like chips can rip it off, but I try to keep that under control. I also thought of having some compressed air nozzles built into the wiper housing that would blow off chips only when retracting, but so far it was not such an annoying problem.
Nice covers! The only thing you should be careful about is that your X axis way cover now produces a dangerous pinch point. I don't think you would see something like this from the factory as it could cause finger loss :)
Thanks! I am not sure I understand what's the dangerous pinch point you are talking about. Are you talking about the left side of the X axis where the wiper is closing against the sheet plate? Cause that one seems safe to me. Or are you talking about the front cover of the X axis? There indeed when the X axis is moved maximum toward X- you have a chance to pinch your finger on the last 10mm. But that would mean moving the handwheel or the joystick with one hand, and putting your hand beneath while its moving. Let me know which of these were you thinking. Thanks for your thoughts!
It might sound ridiculous, but I think an easier solution for the retraction force would be to use an electric motor. An electric motor would apply a constant pulling force, adjustable by the current. Since your lathe is already digital and electronically controlled, the necessary control for that motor would be a minor addition.
I did thought about that approach, but other than some motors from ClearPath that have torque control, I don't know other solutions. That idea indeed would be the most elegant one, but it would be significantly more expensive. And since I am in Europe, after importing a clearpath motor + cables + power supply...it already becomes too expensive. These two approaches I presented here, could be implemented by other folks without any significant costs. But if you know other ways I could obtain what clearpath motors are doing, I am interested, I don't know very much on how to control am motor in torque mode, other than using something like a ClearPath motor. Thanks for watching!
@@LikeFactoryMade I see what you are concerned about, but I think this can be achieved very simply. I suggest using a normal DC brushed motor probably with a gearbox inbuilt/attached. And just keep it running. As soon as the cover is retracted and is held under tension, the motor will be blocked and continue to deliver torque/force. Normally, the motor coils would burn out as the current in this operating mode would increase. But here's where a current limiter comes in. As long as the current is held below the rated armature current, everything is fine I guess you could build this for less than 20$: If you want to follow this path or just give it a shot and see if it works, feel free to contact me if you have further questions. Edit: YT removes the Links I had attached...
@@PermireFabrica I did thought about the first part, but I've missed the second. I thought the motor windings would be burned out, but I have not thought about having a current limiter. I like this idea, I will give it a try once I got some time. Thanks for the tips! 😀
Mighty impressive build! Thanks for sharing, it looks very much like a factory install.
That’s why I decided to change my channel name to: “Like Factory Made” 😄
Thank you! I am here because of guys like you who have inspired me to start this journey!
This is fantastic!! I tried to source some sort of retracting rolling mechanism before building mine, but making your own was exactly what this idea needs. You solved every problem that kept me from attempting this. 😄
Thank you! It means a lot coming from you! You are a source of inspiration for me, glad I was able to inspire you too! 😊
im tired, gotta lay dwn an take a nap after this. l been to 3 county fairs, never seen nothing to beat it. your yt is light years ahead of many many others. thanks mister! im just watching, i have a tiny harbor freight china lathe.
Glad you like it, hope it inspires you! 😊
Pushydog- only three? You be a quick learner 😂
@wrstew1272 three what? 😅
Holy smokes, that lathe... 😍
Yep, I still have moments when I look at it and I still don't believe I got it! :D
Very clever solutions!
I like them! 😊
Thank you! 😊
Amazing! Found this by chance and already subscribed!
This is probably the best solution I’ve seen and will see!
Thank you! Appreciate your feedback!
I was just responding to a previous comment that so far I like how it behaves and it passed my initial tests.
I noticed that when I am making fine chips, as I get closer to the spindle, the spring does not have enough tension to always pull back the cover, so there will be an upgrade to this where I build the other pulling mechanism that I am talking about in the video.
Also got some interesting ideas about building a rail with small holes through which I blow out air when the cross slide moves toward Z-
Just waiting for the time to implement all my ideas :D
@@LikeFactoryMade I have so much respect for someone who hand scrapes their own slide ways. This is the home machinist content people, including myself, love to see. Subbed and excited to see what you continue to do!
@@seasaw40Thank you!
Indeed it was A LOT of work but I am quite pleased with it. I am still not sure 100% if I will keep the slides as they are or if I wanna put turcite on them.
I would not care at all about all the work I've put in if I knew for sure that the best approach is turcite, I would not mind milling all the scraping to make room for turcite.
At least I've learned a new skill.
I bought the turcite, I have everything I need, but some machinist folks said that it would be sad to mill the scraped surfaces and add turcite.
On the other side, being a hobbyist, I accumulated 3 hours of SpindleOn time since may. So with enhanced oiling, low usage + way covers, I think I am safe at least for now! :)
Nicely done!
Thank you!
I feel flattered when people like you are finding this content inspiring 😊
I you are one of the channels that kept fueling my passion for tinkering and metal working! Thanks for the inspiration!
I have looked at this video several times now and your design for the roller retracting way cover is just about perfect. I had done some experimenting with a retracting roller design on both my lathe and on my benchtop milling machine but struggled to find a suitable material for the cover itself.
I have tried thin industrial rubber sheet and the EPDM rubber sheet used to cover flat roofs but all these rubber based materials do not cope well with oil or coolant contamination.
This material you have shown us here is perfect for the job.
It would seem that a lot of the components for a system like this would be very suitable for 3d printing.
Indeed, for a half a year since I’m using it, it behaves very well. I will have a future video where I’ll add other retraction mechanism, as the spring does not have constant pulling force.
Other than that it behaves as I hoped it will.
Yes, if your model fits within the print bed, it is suitable for 3d printing. But for this kind of projects, I prefer metal.
Ideally it would have been some surface ground steel, with a tempered blue color 😋
Very nice! Please keep sharing your work.
Thank you, I will! 😊
This is really nicely done!
Thank you! 😊
Oh...Very cool! I love that it's retractable!
Thanks! 😊
wow! very clean! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!😊
Very nice.
Well conceived and executed.
Thanks, glad you like it!
Great work, no not like factory, better than factory :), thank you for sharing.
Thanks! Glad you liked it! ☺️
Love it!
Simply wonderful. I currently have an accordion-style cover on my Hardinge HLVH that has been ground, etc. and it wants to bunch up when the carriage is near the headstock. Your video makes me think I can improve it. Thank you and well done.
Glad I was able to inspire some people! 😊
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely lovely! Truly like it was designed in from the start.
It's so simple that all decent lathes should come with this, it's not like it would be hard to replace the belt if damaged, and a lot of good wiper profiles are basically standardised rubber products.
I guess the only improvement could be to stop abrasive dust floating in from underneath, but that would need such a massive change to the carriage that it would have to be designed in from the factory, and probably only worth it on machines doing a lot of grinding anyway.
Thank you for your kind comments. 😊
Indeed, its quite difficult to fully protect the ways. The lathe would need to be designed totally different. One of the coolest lathes that has addressed this is Schaublin CCN 180, there they have a telescopic steel cover, that goes under the headstock. So basically the headstock is sitting on the bed of the lathe only on the back and on the front, while on the middle it has a gap and the telescopic cover is passing though that opening. I like that design, but for the rest 99% of the lathes, we need a different solution.
@LikeFactoryMade maybe use positive air pressure so that NOTHING gets in. Just a thought 😊
Great work 🎉
Thanks 😁
Love this design!
Nice job Mr. perfectionist, can't wait for your next video
These way covers are perfect!
Thank you! ☺️
Very elegant solution. Liked and Subscribed.👍
Thank you!
This is so well done!
Great job, 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you! 😊
Great video, lots of informations and ideas
Glad you liked it! 😊
Very nice job.
Thank you! 😊
You have a new subscriber within the first 2 minutes my friend!
Thank you! 😊
Nice Job. 👍
Thanks! 👍
Interesting!
Very great idea & Job dude !
Nice. Gives me a new project.
Glad it inspired you! 😉
Superb design ❤
Thanks 😊
Gaw`dayum, this is a proper renzettification of a lathe... Remarkably nicely done... The pulley system idea for the actuation is even better, but as you said, you had no time for it and this was a prototype... I mean, i`m almost speechless, which happens around as often as a full blackout of the sun... I`ve seen quite a few way cover videos, and of them all, maybe 5 in total have pleased me to the point of commendation and desire to either replicate the design or adapt some features into my own designs... This one is in those 5 videos... I would have considered a way to make the chip-guard curve downwards, rather than being a flat sheet, as chips and abrasive crap has a remarkable tendency to defy gravity and physics in it`s pursuit of precise surfaces to ruin, but alas, your cross-slide guarding is supreme in that aspect... All that being said, i would not have used aluminium for the sheet housing or any parts really, just for the dissimilar metals issue potentially with that block resting against the ways... I tend to solely use alu on alu parts, inox on inox and for cast iron, regular steel and brass/bronze, i`m fine mixing those together, but inox and alu, well, those i tend to treat as troublesome at best... Anodizing and all other metal treatments notwithstanding... I would likely have gone with a same slab of regular steel, but as a finishing step, i would have heat oxidized it to a spotty gentle purple, purple and dark blue before letting it cool below the smoke point and would have dunked it in oil to glaze and seal the oxides... It`s a `yuge part to heat blue, but the bigger the better, as there is more surface for the pornography that is oxide finish to manifest on...
All the best and kindest regards!
Steuss
Oh, btw, you have earned a sub dear machinist brother...
9:18 was very satisfying
Wow!
Muito bom projeto amigo!!!
A sim bão terá desgaste execessivo no seu torno muito boa ideia!!!
Lhe desejo cada vez mais sucesso!!!
Sim, espero que o trabalho realizado até agora dure o máximo possível. Até agora ele está se comportando bem, espero que inspire outras pessoas.
+1 sub ! your a absolute genius! 👍
Wile E Coyote - Genius! 😄
Thanks mate!
An ingenious and not strictly obvious compact approach to an annoying issue. A minor benefit is that the wiper torsion springs apply a tiny amount of backlash compensation. Not much but some. Any thanks.
Compared to how heavy the entire cross slide is, the spring can’t make any difference in terms of backlash.
Glad you like it! 😊
@LikeFactoryMade I like it. Given that on a manual (not CNC) lathe you sometimes machine between centers on the tailstock side, would a tailstock way cover of this style be reasonable? Also would this kind of way cover be suitable if you're using a tool post-mounted grinder
For the tailstock side, I could not find a solution that would still allow to use it properly on all part lengths. At least for my machine configuration, it can’t be done, especially if I want to keep the same width of 280mm for a 200mm wide bed.
Regarding the toolpost grinder, covering the ways was one of the prerequisite steps for that kind of project that will come in the future. I have all the parts for it, I just need the time to put it all together.
Very nice! I'm going to try this for my lathe. I bought the accordian style and didn't like it. I subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work. Mick
Glad you like it. So far I think it was a good idea. But the wiper is important so that the chips don’t get rolled in.
I would have liked to see more details of the torsion spring. Any idea where to get a similar one? I bought accordion style way covers for my emco from Ebay. They were nice except the first time I tried hard turning chips melted them. Also cleaning the folds of the accordion was a pain. Your solution is better.
Unfortunately, I don't have any specs for the torsion spring, I had it laying around the shop so among the others I had, this seemed to fit better.
The setup that you saw was more like the testing phase for me. I wanted to see if cover is behaving as expected and so far it seems it does. But when there are small chips like for cast iron, the friction force between the wiper and the sheet becomes higher, and since the pulling force is not constant across the entire length, it sometimes lifts up and it needs a little help in getting rolled back.
I will switch to the other solution presented in the video now that its confirmed to work as expected. That solution has always a constant pulling force, but implementing that has a few challenges too.
But that will be a separate video so stay tuned! 😉
@@LikeFactoryMade good luck growing your channel. I’m on board!
Use spring from tape measure.
Very nice! At 13:28, you're not blowing chips between the two covers on the cross slide are you? ;)
The white painted cover on top, has some sort of wiper that contacts she stainless cover. It is not as efficient as the rubber ones, but there is not such a big problem because there is no guideway underneath those. There is just the ballscrew and the servomotor, and the chips can fall because its open on the bottom.
I will do some checks after a few months and see how it behaves.
@@LikeFactoryMade The whole job is super impressive; I've saved this for when I get around to CNCing my mill. Thanks for taking the time to make the video
@@mhagnewthanks for your comment. Glad you like it! 😊
Amazing
Thanks! ☺️
What about adding a slot cut in the botton and a wiper so as u move toward the chuck the small chips dont get wrapped up the the mechanism
I have a wiper mounted which won't allow any chips o get inside the mechanism. Its the same wiper as I used for the X axis protection.
However after a few months of use, I discovered that if I tighten the wiper more firmly, the pulling force is not big enough when the sheet gets dirty with fine chips. So in a follow up video, I will build the other mechanism of retraction.
The initial goal was to test how this kind of wiper works without creating an over-engineered solution just to discover that it doesn't work.
Now that the stage one is complete, I can proceed with stage two. I also got some ideas to some compressed air blowing chips when the carriage moves toward Z- but maybe that will be in stage 3 :D
Here you can see the installation of the wiper I am talking about: th-cam.com/video/ZDNUJDywuuE/w-d-xo.html
nice concept and execution. suggestion, put a wiper across the shield otherwise chips will get rolled into.
I have the same wiper I used for the X axis protection, you can see it here: th-cam.com/video/ZDNUJDywuuE/w-d-xo.html
Without that wiper, it would clog up in a few minutes. Actually when I've accidentally found a wiper like this, I got the idea of building a way cover like this one 😄
You can take a picture from dead on looking the rails. Then draw the shape over the image and scale it using width etc. You can also take multiple images and make a STL in Meshroom. This will also need to be scaled.
Damn, you are right! I’ve used this approach when I built the chuck cover, but it didn’t crossed my mind to use it for the ways profile 😅
Thanks for bringing this up! 😄
Very nice! Anyone know where can I get this material?
Its a material used for packaging machines. Glass fiber reinforced teflon.
It was quite cheap, with about 20 euros, I can get 3 of these.
I may or may not steel your design for my own lathe.
Simple and low profile!
Feel free to steal it, you may come up with new ideas that could benefit all of us. 😉
i think you'd do well with a contour gauge.
I am not sure I understand what you mean, can you explain?
Nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Oh la la 😍
Minus diameter capacity. Shavings will accumulate on this curtain instead fall to the pan. And metal beard can catch this curtain and rip it off. But it looks and acts cool :)
After about 6 months since I installed it, it seems it works ok. I will need to make another video where I replace the torsion spring with the other mechanism that I was talking about.
Yes, there is the risk that some birds nest like chips can rip it off, but I try to keep that under control.
I also thought of having some compressed air nozzles built into the wiper housing that would blow off chips only when retracting, but so far it was not such an annoying problem.
Nice covers! The only thing you should be careful about is that your X axis way cover now produces a dangerous pinch point. I don't think you would see something like this from the factory as it could cause finger loss :)
Thanks!
I am not sure I understand what's the dangerous pinch point you are talking about. Are you talking about the left side of the X axis where the wiper is closing against the sheet plate? Cause that one seems safe to me.
Or are you talking about the front cover of the X axis? There indeed when the X axis is moved maximum toward X- you have a chance to pinch your finger on the last 10mm. But that would mean moving the handwheel or the joystick with one hand, and putting your hand beneath while its moving.
Let me know which of these were you thinking.
Thanks for your thoughts!
It might sound ridiculous, but I think an easier solution for the retraction force would be to use an electric motor.
An electric motor would apply a constant pulling force, adjustable by the current.
Since your lathe is already digital and electronically controlled, the necessary control for that motor would be a minor addition.
I did thought about that approach, but other than some motors from ClearPath that have torque control, I don't know other solutions. That idea indeed would be the most elegant one, but it would be significantly more expensive. And since I am in Europe, after importing a clearpath motor + cables + power supply...it already becomes too expensive. These two approaches I presented here, could be implemented by other folks without any significant costs.
But if you know other ways I could obtain what clearpath motors are doing, I am interested, I don't know very much on how to control am motor in torque mode, other than using something like a ClearPath motor.
Thanks for watching!
@@LikeFactoryMade I see what you are concerned about, but I think this can be achieved very simply.
I suggest using a normal DC brushed motor probably with a gearbox inbuilt/attached. And just keep it running. As soon as the cover is retracted and is held under tension, the motor will be blocked and continue to deliver torque/force. Normally, the motor coils would burn out as the current in this operating mode would increase. But here's where a current limiter comes in. As long as the current is held below the rated armature current, everything is fine
I guess you could build this for less than 20$:
If you want to follow this path or just give it a shot and see if it works, feel free to contact me if you have further questions.
Edit: YT removes the Links I had attached...
@@PermireFabrica I did thought about the first part, but I've missed the second. I thought the motor windings would be burned out, but I have not thought about having a current limiter.
I like this idea, I will give it a try once I got some time.
Thanks for the tips! 😀
@@LikeFactoryMade You're welcome. The current limiter can be something as simple as one of the cheap Chinese DC/DC converters.
@@PermireFabricaWow, I have not thought about that! Thanks!
This was so good that you got a new subscriber 😊. Me thinks that you think. Great!😂
Glad you like it! Stay tuned, I have other ideas too! 😄
compliments on your command of the english language; even more so if it's not your main language
Thank you! 😊
Look at the cover from the schaublin 102-VM
Where?
Do you take custom orders 😆 ? jk, nice build.
Sometimes I do, depends on what you need ☺️