Keep it up Danny!! Soon you will have companies that will send you stuff to review!! When you get famous please be easy on the sponsorship ads. Don’t be like the usual car TH-camrs!!
Super idea! I wish i could save it to watch later as i'm not that good with electrical things. I'll need to watch it at least two or three more times and once again after i buy and get ready to install my own back up cameras.
Nice vid, thanks! I just found two fuses which I could use, one is 20A (always on), one is 7,5A (on when engine running). I couldn't use others as the socket would not go in (cables and fuses in the hardware kit are on the sides and there was something blocking them). So my question is, would it be better to connect to car fuses like 5A and 5A or at least maximum 10A? Somewhere on the net I read that it's better 1) not to use critical car fuses (what you mention), but also 2) not to use more than 10A car fuses.
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks for your reply. I know the fuse holders have 5A fuses. Just wondering if it would be better to connect to something lower than 20A... but it's just a theoretical question. I checked all possibilities including factors like 1) do not use critical fuses, 2) use lower A fuses, 3) mach + with +, 4) make the plug fit and I don't have other moves... it's a pity they made the plugs 90 degree angle
very informative. is it true that every car will have a fuse with constant power? I was reading somewhere there was a install that hooked up to the OBD scanner port (which i want to avoid). thanks again for this video.
Can you do a video on replacing the spool valve gasket or engine thrust cover gasket? Theres videos on YT about it but i dont like how they pull the entire engine harness while doing so, you have to disconnect many connectors to get wiggle room but even then they still pull the entire harness, i would rather see a tutorial on how to properly remove the harness in order to properly remove the thrust cover with ease and more space. Ive tried doing the job and got as far as removing both small bolts but its really tight and i could only pull the top part off but i dont want to use leverage on the valve cover and damage or or crack something. I already broke the 24p engine harness connector by accidentaly slipping leverage , luckily no electrical issues yet.
It comes with a cigarette lighter plug, but if you want to use parking mode, yes you will need the extra kit, it has extra electronics that shuts the camera down when your battery gets low so you don’t get stranded , yes you could do without it, but your car may not start, hopefully that makes sense, if you end up purchasing, I would appreciate you using my amazon links in the description, this helps support my channel
Excellent visuals and explanations! Wouldn’t it have been better to run the rear camera cable out the *passenger* side? That way, there would be less cable to stuff down the driver side column.
here is the answer What is Static Sticker? The transparent film-like stuff is a static sticker and can be attached to the front windshield of your vehicle before you attach the camera. By using the static sticker, there will be no residual marks and cleaning troubles if you reposition yo@@ChrisWaters
@@dannysdiygarage That’s good to know. Thanks for researching. Later this year I’ll be replacing the vehicle I’m installing this in. It sounds like using the static sticker would be beneficial. I gotta believe its use still results in a secure mount.
I just came across your channel, looking for advice regarding my most recent problem, power steering noise. Keep up the solid guidance, sir. I have been wanting to add cameras with all the questionable drivers in Frisco, TX. I want to give an idea for your next DIY. I fixed my own headliner a couple of years ago, when I went a month with no AC, and it started drooping. I don't have the exact video for ya, but it was cheap (just the fabric, one can of 3M spray glue, and a hard bush) and relitively easy. It was a bit messy and laborsome to clean and prep before adding the new glue, but it was a nice improvement. No offense, but it looks like you could use the cosmetic upgrade. Here is a similar video: th-cam.com/video/kZ_bICRvh-Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Uk5m4wE5Olrth5NY
Super helpful video and great explanation of how those fuse taps work. Thanks 🙏🏼
Appreciate you watching
Keep it up Danny!! Soon you will have companies that will send you stuff to review!! When you get famous please be easy on the sponsorship ads. Don’t be like the usual car TH-camrs!!
I hear you, I decline companies all the time, I only accept offers if I think it will benefit my viewers and channel, thanks so much for watching 👍🏼
Excellent Danny. Clear and to the point. Thank you!
Appreciate it
Super idea! I wish i could save it to watch later as i'm not that good with electrical things. I'll need to watch it at least two or three more times and once again after i buy and get ready to install my own back up cameras.
Appreciate you watching and good luck 👍🏼
You should have used the cleaning alcohol wipes included in the box.
I saw your grandkids and dog licking the windshield. 😮😂
Finally found your video. Very helpful in getting our dash cam installed! Thank you.
Very helpful video. Many thanks Danny!
Excellent demo. Thank you sir
@@jimleishman4652 appreciated!
Thanks!👍 You've helped more than you know🍺
Appreciate you letting me know
Very well done video !
Appreciated👍🏼
Nice vid, thanks! I just found two fuses which I could use, one is 20A (always on), one is 7,5A (on when engine running). I couldn't use others as the socket would not go in (cables and fuses in the hardware kit are on the sides and there was something blocking them). So my question is, would it be better to connect to car fuses like 5A and 5A or at least maximum 10A? Somewhere on the net I read that it's better 1) not to use critical car fuses (what you mention), but also 2) not to use more than 10A car fuses.
10a is best, the fuse holder has a fuse in it also
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks for your reply. I know the fuse holders have 5A fuses. Just wondering if it would be better to connect to something lower than 20A... but it's just a theoretical question. I checked all possibilities including factors like 1) do not use critical fuses, 2) use lower A fuses, 3) mach + with +, 4) make the plug fit and I don't have other moves... it's a pity they made the plugs 90 degree angle
very informative. is it true that every car will have a fuse with constant power? I was reading somewhere there was a install that hooked up to the OBD scanner port (which i want to avoid). thanks again for this video.
I’m not aware of any car that doesn’t does not have fuses with constant power
Can you do a video on replacing the spool valve gasket or engine thrust cover gasket? Theres videos on YT about it but i dont like how they pull the entire engine harness while doing so, you have to disconnect many connectors to get wiggle room but even then they still pull the entire harness, i would rather see a tutorial on how to properly remove the harness in order to properly remove the thrust cover with ease and more space.
Ive tried doing the job and got as far as removing both small bolts but its really tight and i could only pull the top part off but i dont want to use leverage on the valve cover and damage or or crack something.
I already broke the 24p engine harness connector by accidentaly slipping leverage , luckily no electrical issues yet.
I needed this video thanks
Hopefully it was easy to understand
looks like the next will be “how to fix saggy head liner”
Yeah, the video kinda made it look worse than it is, but yes a new headliner would be nice, doubt I’ll spend the money though ❤
Great job! Thanks.
Thank you
Is the hardware kit necessary? Is it possible to connect the power supply to an always on circuit in the fuse box?
It comes with a cigarette lighter plug, but if you want to use parking mode, yes you will need the extra kit, it has extra electronics that shuts the camera down when your battery gets low so you don’t get stranded , yes you could do without it, but your car may not start, hopefully that makes sense, if you end up purchasing, I would appreciate you using my amazon links in the description, this helps support my channel
Excellent visuals and explanations! Wouldn’t it have been better to run the rear camera cable out the *passenger* side? That way, there would be less cable to stuff down the driver side column.
Might be, great suggestion
What’s the purpose of the clear sheet of plastic that you opted not to apply to the front windshield?
to make it easier to remove but it also isn’t secured down as well if you use it
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks. Awaiting delivery. I’m unsure if I’ll use the sheet.
here is the answer What is Static Sticker? The transparent film-like stuff is a static sticker and can be attached to the front windshield of your vehicle before you attach the camera. By using the static sticker, there will be no residual marks and cleaning troubles if you reposition yo@@ChrisWaters
@@dannysdiygarage That’s good to know. Thanks for researching. Later this year I’ll be replacing the vehicle I’m installing this in. It sounds like using the static sticker would be beneficial. I gotta believe its use still results in a secure mount.
I just came across your channel, looking for advice regarding my most recent problem, power steering noise. Keep up the solid guidance, sir. I have been wanting to add cameras with all the questionable drivers in Frisco, TX. I want to give an idea for your next DIY.
I fixed my own headliner a couple of years ago, when I went a month with no AC, and it started drooping. I don't have the exact video for ya, but it was cheap (just the fabric, one can of 3M spray glue, and a hard bush) and relitively easy. It was a bit messy and laborsome to clean and prep before adding the new glue, but it was a nice improvement. No offense, but it looks like you could use the cosmetic upgrade. Here is a similar video:
th-cam.com/video/kZ_bICRvh-Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Uk5m4wE5Olrth5NY