Tools: Type I used in the video:amzn.to/3TLu8ie Internal Spring Compressor: amzn.to/3tg9qsY Clamshell Spring Compressor: amzn.to/3tmx9HQ Wall Mounted Spring Compressor: amzn.to/3xWiqHg My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Ppl keep sayn quick struts arent as good. I was always under the impression original springs get weak but folks are sayn quicks drive rougher. Im older & have NEVER done struts. Shocks, leaf springs, but not struts. GREAT tutorial! Thanks! I will do ur way when I do it!
True story, quick struts (esp the Chinese versions) are junk. Buy quality shocks instead, and if you are not comfortable doing the work take the old struts to a shop and have them swap in the new cartridges for you.
Very detailed!! That’s the key here. Amazing video, clear, straight to the point. He even told us how to line up the top bottom piece and the top piece. Thank you!!!!!!!! For two parts it’s 200$ but at a shop it cost me 1000$. So great full! Thanks!
"I used to work at a tire shop in 2006. One of the apprentices removed the middle bolt on a loaded strut, and the spring shot across the shop floor. It went through a car door and halfway through the other door. Even after 20 years of changing tires and struts, incidents like this still scare me. It's important to respect things that can be dangerous and even fatal."
Thanks from Australia. Why do the best videos show up a day late. Nervously did one of the shocks on my '94 EF Ford Falcon yesterday. Also just learnt the best ball joint remover for it was the back of an axe.
Fantastic job. 99% of this is common sense but I learn better and am much more comfortable when I can see something done and you do a great job of showing and explaining the process in a safe and easy to understand manner. Thank you.
I put a 2" lift kit on my 2016 WRX and bought a set of spring compression clamps. Good thing because I used them about 20 times before I was satisfied. I went ahead and bought them because it was third time I'd rented them, the lift kit took three more weekends than anticipated, and because they looked like handy clamps to keep around. I've used them maybe a dozen times on other projects - they will also split things if you turn the hooks around. But I did have one catastrophic incident where the clamps slipped and part of the strut took off at high speed. It dented an old car and I'm still trying to find the piece. My recommendation is that while compressing or decompressing, you treat both ends like a loaded gun, keep them pointed in a safe direction, and do not put any part of your body in the firing zone - the tensions is that high. I was lucky - it only cost me a change of skivvies.
Thanks for sharing that story. I thought the young gentleman in the video looked a little too relaxed and comfortable the whole time that coil spring was compressed and under very high tension.
Good job on a clear and informative video. Nice on getting all your parts out and in order. I decided to go this way, because I wanted to go old school; less landfill; I'm cheap, and my time is cheaper. 🙂 Cheers
Very nice video. Just got home with my loaner McPherson spring coil compressor, I got the wrong version at first and had to go back. Getting ready to do my PT Cruiser struts. I'm rebuilding the entire front end and steering rack and pinion. I'm feeling a bit more confident to do this for the first time. I could have gotten the quick struts, but besides saving a few bucks, I just wanted the experience of doing one. Thanks!
Thanks for this. I replaced my Honda CRV with quick struts from Monroe and the car is a floating bed. I noticed they have thicker springs so I guess that compromises the ride quality. Planning to replace the shocks with KYBs and original springs and I hope this tool will help
I have used these several times without incident. I used two pairs though just to be on the safe side. Just take your time and distribute the adjustments across the compressors as evenly as possible and they will not fly off.
Quick struts usually aren’t good quality either unless you’re buying a quality set of coil overs. Bilstein makes $250 struts without spring for my car, where I can get a quick strut from Monroe for $60. Which one do you think is gonna be better quality?
Excellent video. I appreciate the emphasis on safety. I have a strut story that will reinforce that point. In the mid to late 1990s, I replaced struts on a used Sentra. I had never done this type of work but knew it was possible. I went to a local automotive parts store and rented a spring compressor. Notice I said "a" spring compressor. They were missing one from their set but were getting paid so more than happy to rent it to me. I didn't know I needed two at that point. I get one side compressed and realize I need to compress the other side too. So, I tie some wire around the side I've compressed several times before moving onto the remaining side. At some point, the wire gave out on the first time and the spring fully extended again. I had used too few wraps of wire to hold the spring. I'm lucky I didn't lose fingers. Those springs are just plain dangerous and not to be taken lightly. If the equipment isn't in good condition, put the job off until you get what you need. I'm doing struts again this weekend on another vehicle. I thought it would be a good idea to review the process just to be safe. Thank you again for making this video.
Great demonstration. I can attest from my own experience Quick Struts sometimes do not work out well. I bought KYB strut Plus series for my 2009 Honda CRV and had all types of issues with Clinking and spring noises. Luckily I saved my old strut assembly plus the spring and plan to put just the new struts into them and re-use most of the OEM parts. Do yourself a favor and Save your original springs etc. Just replace the strut using this method.
I've had the exact same experience with Monroe quick struts on my Hyundai Elantra. Oh man what a pain in the ass the quick strut assembly's were. Monroe has a manufacturing defect with their strut mounts on the quick strut assembly. The strut mounts wobble vertically! This caused all sorts of clunking, road noise, not to mention the alignment being off. Going the OEM route, it's expensive, but I know all the parts will be work.
@@matthkyeah but the parts are not created equal. Manufacturers commission companies like KYB to build parts to their specific standards for OEM. KYB in the aftermarket is not the same quality. So in my experience, OEM is preferably the way to go.
Scotty says to stay away from everything but Toyotas too. Quick struts won't have the same springs and likely poop quality shocks you'll end up replacing after a couple years. The car won't handle the same either.
Loved the sarcasm at the end🤣 the wife’s spark doesn’t have easily available quick struts and watching this video made me confident to mess with the angry springs lol
I was lucky enough to score a near new Branick wall mount for $50, guy bought a shop for real estate and didn't know what it was. A good reason to do a strut swap instead of quickstrut is the better quality OEM springs. On the Ram 1500, OEM uses something like 40 different spring rates, tailored to specific trim levels / cab / curb weight. Few aftermarket springs match that. Much rather invest in quality aftermarket strut, and keep OEM springs.
TU and sub, nice video. I wanted to add that while quickstruts are easy to install, they're also kinda junky. I own a GTI and wanted to use Sachs OE struts, a high quality strut bearing, and VW OE coils. VW uses different coils for each style of GTI (ie, auto vs manual, 2 dr vs 4 dr, etc). There is only one model quickstrut for my vehicle. What happens is sometimes the springs are not correct for all variations and cause the front end of vehicle to raise up (see Scotty Kilmer video of him doing his wife's old Lexus SUV with quickstruts... said the 15 yr old Lexus struts still rode better than the new quickstruts). Also, it is highly recommended that you lubricate the threads to decrease the damage and ease compression. I used Super Lube grease to lightly lubricate the threads on my spring compressors.
I have an E46 BMW and replacing the Sachs struts on the front. I'll bet any quick struts available for it are junk. Beat to do your own. Plus brand new springs on the front with the originals on the rear will probably be funny handling.
I was wondering why on my VW ( coil spring broke) that the mechanic didn't replace the set with a quick strut. He had mention that he had a hard time finding a replacement. Basically he just changed the coil springs for both sides). Now I'm looking to change my struts. Thanks to your video I can do the job myself and looking into in buying a spring compressor. You had mention to line up the top part with the bottom ? Orientation ?? I couldn't tell in our video..
Thank you so much for making this. Question: I have an old 2004 CR-V. Lots of dirt road miles on it. I was thinking about changing the shocks and keeping the springs but part of me is wondering if it would just be better to replace the entire system. I was thinking KYB quick struts. A little more expensive but could be a better option.
Read mixed reviews on quality and also some springs breaking after a year or two on quick struts. For my explorer to use motorcraft again I need to go this route.
Great video. Thanks for the info. In some cases, like with my Honda Element, there aren’t many great options for the quick struts, either. I’m of course, referring to the durability of the struts we do have available. KYB, for example, makes a great shock, but their strut mount on their assemblies seems to be garbage. My Honda strut mounts are still good, so are my springs, it just makes sense to replace the leaking shock and keep everything else that’s still fine, plus OE quick struts are very expensive, at least doing it this way I only have to pay for the 0E shock.
I have an 06 Element and plan to do it the old school way too. I've heard negative things about all quick struts for the Element - including KYBs. Element Lifestyle channel tried out a couple of different front strut mounts (KYB and Duralast) before deciding OEM was the only way to go. So it'll be KYB shock, retain all other parts, except for the front strut mounts which will be replaced with Honda OEM, (about $50 each L/R). You should be able to just replace the shock in the rear and reuse everything else, unless you have severe corrosion or damage.
Upgrading spring on a Honda crf125f to a heavy duty spring to accommodate an adult rider. This tool looks exactly like the ones a got from HF. Thanks for creating the video.
Amazing video, well i will give u an example: Here in my country, brazil, a quick strut assembly is almost NEVER an option, its 3 to 4 times more expensive.
I'm doing mine with some bars with double lickers and a semi circle bar to go between them. I'm also going to run a bicycle cable through the spring to secure it to my work bench. I'm using OEM Sachs struts on my E46 BMW and doubt they come in quick struts. I did my front shocks on a 4matic Mercedes with a floor jack and these make me even more nervous.
I just got off my knees doing one strut. I have a model you mention. No quick struts. Not benchable. Strut is Only sold in Japan. OEM. No after market ever. Your video helped.
thank you for the video, I have a similar situation, i though going the "loaded strut " route was a good idea, however, it was not....my vehicle called for monotube coilover shocks from the factory, well "quickstruts" or loaded struts , at least the company i bought them from did fit, but it did not function well at all, first they were not monotube, hence why the rattle and did not work well at all....you have to be careful whenn buying this units...there is a reason why they are inexpensive..which i learned the hard way, i will be using this things to install my struts, once again thank you.
Thanks for the heads up on using the old school style strut compressor with coils on the newer style trucks! I bought a spring compressor like the one you used in your video and I’ve been prolonging the use of it to install a leveling kit on my 2019 ram 1500 DT. I think I’ll just go with the pre assembled strut lift kit instead lol
Quickstruts often suck though. I installed Bilstein shocks on my 04 Jetta, replaced everything but kept the springs. Something crazy, was that the car already had aftermarket shocks on it, and they might have been quickstruts or were improperly torqued when assembled because I literally hat to cut the spring seats to remove the springs as even after grinding flat spots to put it on a vice and hitting it with a XL half inch brushless impact I was unable to take the nuts off, insane! I'm putting a minor lift spring on it later this winter.
For your own safety, get the professional type compressor (Branick) used. I got mine used for $150. A lot of people are selling them because quick struts are so cheap now. However, if you want OEM ride like the Honda's I have, then wall mount strut compressors are worth every penny.
I can't justify spending $600 on a tool I'm only going to use once. I bought a set like these but mine are double locking where the spring goes through and has a semicircle center bar to tie them together. I'm going to get a bicycle cable lock and chain the spring to my work bench. Wish I could get a wall mounted unit but it wouldn't make financial sense.
I just changed mine. I now have a bunch of binding noise coming from the left front when I start, stop, or turn. Someone said it's the bearings in the top. Would that be in the top piece that comes off, or is it in the strut itself? What likely went wrong here? Maybe I overtightened?
Thanks for the vid. I'll be changing struts tomorrow on my Renault clio which is thankfully small car with tiny springs but I'm still pretty scared. Hopefully everything will go smoothly.
I had to replace shocks on my 4Matic Benz without a spring compressor. The MacPherson ones won't fit as the spring coils are too close together. You have to undo the top nut and slowly lower the bottom control arm with a floor jack. It also involves completely removing the front half shafts, undoing the sway bar and unhooking the ball joints.
How much compression do you have to compress the spring and after you decompress the spring, do you tighten that nut before you reinstall the assembly ?
Exactly! Nobody anywhere on TH-cam is addressing this issue! How far down do we tighten that top nut? And how does the amount of spring compression influence this?. Surely you only need to compress the spring to the point that it makes the top cap removal possible. PLUS.. over-compressing the springs makes the whole procedure FAR more dangerous.
Do NOT use an impact on these compressors. Just use a ratchet and socket. Take your time. THAT is how they are intended to be used. You see people using impact guns to save time and this is how bad shit happens.
Thanks Casey. I was going to use my impact on this same compressor tool only taking my time and doing both sides evenly but after reading your comment, I think I will not use an impact because I can more easily feel the force so to speak with a socket and ratchet. 😎
Great instruction from you as usual, but in my case I got an old 2002 Nissan Pathfinder, and I noticed the springs are thick and strong looking. But my main concern it's got almost 200,000 miles on it. So I figure the springs are probably getting weak, so I'll just buy two complete strut assemblys from Monroe. 😇
I got the strut off my right front 2001 Ford Focus (65k miles) after renting this same spring compressor. I was worried the tool could slide down the angle of the coil spring so I wrapped all 4 contact points with blue painters tape to hopefully help prevent any sliding. We'll see cuz I haven't done the work yet. Only replacing the one bad strut mount (swivel bearing plate) as the struts and springs are still good.
Lubricate the screw rods on your spring compressor. If you use yours as infrequently as I do, spray the whole thing clean with brake cleaner, let it dry, then grease the crap out of them. You're applying so much pressure to the compressor that you won't know if it's binding up until it's too late.
I hate these budget spring compressors. I have compressed numerous coil springs to change shocks over the years on various vehicles and it is a job I truly hate simply because using these compressors can be so tricky and any slippage or failure could result in a spring flying out causing serious injury or fatality. I take my time compressing the spring winding the threads small amounts on each side. Some times I use 3 spring compressors as I think using 3 is safer than 2. Once a spring is fully compressed and I am removing it from a shock absorber I treat it very very carefully like an unexploded bomb. Only when I have the spring back on the new shock properly in place with the top nut securely on the top mount do I relax. I need to replace a pair of front shocks shortly and I am seriously considering buying an hydraulic coil spring compressor as I hate them so much. Sooner or later I feel my luck will run out if I continue to use them.
I ordered a set of bilstein shocks for my nissan titan. For some reason they dont offer a prebuilt strut for it. I only bought them because the review on them was way better on a few forums than other brands. Now I have to mount the springs or find someone to do it for me.
I think I’m being tracked 😀. I haven’t watched the video yet but actually just did this project on a 2008 Rav 4 this past Saturday without incident. The key is to stay alert, take your time, follow every caution you read and if you can, get a spring compressor with safety pins that prevent the spring from leaving the groove of the tool once you start compressing.
broke 3 sets of spring compressors trying to do the top mounts on my ute. had to buy floor mount compressor to finish the job bah to so called heavy duty compressors
The link for the spring compressor you are using fails. Could you update it? By the way, great video. Are a mechanic's teacher? I'm thinking of helping my son change all four struts on him 2010 Jeep Compass Limited.
So the spring can fit into the recessed part of the hook with the pin retracted but cannot fit back over the lip of the hook with the pin extended, thus achieving the locking action. Have I pictured that correctly?
Yep thats the basic premise. Like I said in the video you can't throw caution to the wind with this. Take your time compress each side evenly and use common sense, it will go fine.
The tension won't be the same. And the shocke rebound characteristics won't be either. Better off with using the stock spring paired with the stock strut. Goes without saying a quick strut is better than a broken one but it won't handle the same with other hardware.
Just tried using quick struts for my Sorento, TRQ brand. Total garbage, springs are binding even after they sent me a replacement. If you want to go quick strut, at least buy something like KYB or MOOG if you can. I'm ending up having to redo the whole job with some KYB struts and mounts with the OG springs.
I just bought a TRQ strut mount (bearing), as that is the only bad part on my 2001 Ford Focus, 65k miles. lol. Was the cheapest one on the market. Idk, it seems like a quality part but since the job is already half done, I'm gonna slap it on anyway. If it lasts a year or two I'll be happy. Other brand mounts were like $47 or more and I'm frugal AF so I guess I'll see first hand if TRQ fits the bill so to speak.
Great to learn this. Question- if / when I replace mine they come with spring already so, are there some cars you have to switch spring? Or, do you do it for another reason?
Many quick struts are not up to snuff and are basically cheap clones of name-brand products. Some of these replacements will make your car ride worse than the worn-out component it replaced, since these quick struts are designed to fit several applications and won't ride like an OEM replacement. Better to put your $$ into a new, quality strut and reuse your springs for the best results. The springs seldom need replacement, unless they've been on bad roads or they're old with obvious sagging. You can always bring your old struts/springs along with the new struts down the street to your local mechanic/shop and they can swap the struts out safely in a fraction of the time it would take to use the two-piece spring compressors.
I 2nd what Keith said. Fully assembled quick struts are cheap for a reason. We're also dealing with an industry that's needlessly wasteful in the interest of making profits. Those OEM springs still have a lot of life in them. Get a quality cartridge insert and repair instead of consume
I just bought Amazon quick struts for my yukon xl denali and the springs are not up to oem specs and now it sits to low. Gonna swap over the springs onto the new struts
@@RepairGeek I’m doing the coilover conversion on mine, and for $50 I’ll give the clamshell version of compressor a try. I’ll let you know what happens, unless I perish!🤞🤞
Yes it will. Any changes in height will affect camber. If you're lowering it you're supposed to install w canber kit to bring thae wheel out. Anytime you do a strut jobor tie rods or ball joints you should do an alignment.
Yes, guy in vid should have had safety glasses on for real. I also felt he acted a little too comfortable the whole time that spring was compressed, moving it around and all. Things can break, parts and tools can fail.
Most of the Springs in the pre-built struts out there are Garbage, they are not the same tension as the OEM ones so the car will still not drive well, you'll feel it too. If you re-use the OEM springs like in this video, you are guaranteed that the the car suspension will run like when it was new.
Yeah unfortunately I have a couple of problems. I drive a 2016 Suburban so there's one and the other is. It uses magna ride struts that are if I get OEM close to $1,000
Tools:
Type I used in the video:amzn.to/3TLu8ie
Internal Spring Compressor: amzn.to/3tg9qsY
Clamshell Spring Compressor: amzn.to/3tmx9HQ
Wall Mounted Spring Compressor: amzn.to/3xWiqHg
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
That first model is the exact one I borrowed from my neighborhood parts store this weekend.
Ppl keep sayn quick struts arent as good. I was always under the impression original springs get weak but folks are sayn quicks drive rougher. Im older & have NEVER done struts. Shocks, leaf springs, but not struts. GREAT tutorial! Thanks! I will do ur way when I do it!
True story, quick struts (esp the Chinese versions) are junk. Buy quality shocks instead, and if you are not comfortable doing the work take the old struts to a shop and have them swap in the new cartridges for you.
I don't like quickstruts as they typically sit higher and wont settle. Id rather keep the original springs as they have settled equally
Exactly!
Thank you so much! Some of us are DIY on a budget out of necessity...
Very detailed!! That’s the key here. Amazing video, clear, straight to the point. He even told us how to line up the top bottom piece and the top piece. Thank you!!!!!!!! For two parts it’s 200$ but at a shop it cost me 1000$. So great full! Thanks!
Bro you legit saved me from a denoting loaded metal spring! Thank you
"I used to work at a tire shop in 2006. One of the apprentices removed the middle bolt on a loaded strut, and the spring shot across the shop floor. It went through a car door and halfway through the other door. Even after 20 years of changing tires and struts, incidents like this still scare me. It's important to respect things that can be dangerous and even fatal."
Quit lying 😤
They're most definitely dangerous, but this never happened LOL
Thats not possible bro unless the door was made out of wet paper😂😂
Total Bull 🐂 😂
The doors were open
OEM springs are good to keep thats why this process works.
Thanks from Australia. Why do the best videos show up a day late. Nervously did one of the shocks on my '94 EF Ford Falcon yesterday. Also just learnt the best ball joint remover for it was the back of an axe.
Fantastic job. 99% of this is common sense but I learn better and am much more comfortable when I can see something done and you do a great job of showing and explaining the process in a safe and easy to understand manner. Thank you.
I put a 2" lift kit on my 2016 WRX and bought a set of spring compression clamps. Good thing because I used them about 20 times before I was satisfied. I went ahead and bought them because it was third time I'd rented them, the lift kit took three more weekends than anticipated, and because they looked like handy clamps to keep around. I've used them maybe a dozen times on other projects - they will also split things if you turn the hooks around.
But I did have one catastrophic incident where the clamps slipped and part of the strut took off at high speed. It dented an old car and I'm still trying to find the piece. My recommendation is that while compressing or decompressing, you treat both ends like a loaded gun, keep them pointed in a safe direction, and do not put any part of your body in the firing zone - the tensions is that high. I was lucky - it only cost me a change of skivvies.
Thanks for sharing that story. I thought the young gentleman in the video looked a little too relaxed and comfortable the whole time that coil spring was compressed and under very high tension.
Great video. Good attention to safety. Good idea to take a few pictures before disassembly.
BY FAR THE BEST TUTORIAL ABOUT THIS SUBJECT!..THANKS FOR POSTING IT!
I had a professional mechanic mention to lube the screws on the spring compressors to make it easier.
Good job on a clear and informative video. Nice on getting all your parts out and in order.
I decided to go this way, because I wanted to go old school; less landfill; I'm cheap, and my time is cheaper. 🙂
Cheers
Very nice video. Just got home with my loaner McPherson spring coil compressor, I got the wrong version at first and had to go back.
Getting ready to do my PT Cruiser struts. I'm rebuilding the entire front end and steering rack and pinion.
I'm feeling a bit more confident to do this for the first time.
I could have gotten the quick struts, but besides saving a few bucks, I just wanted the experience of doing one.
Thanks!
Thanks for this. I replaced my Honda CRV with quick struts from Monroe and the car is a floating bed. I noticed they have thicker springs so I guess that compromises the ride quality. Planning to replace the shocks with KYBs and original springs and I hope this tool will help
I have used these several times without incident. I used two pairs though just to be on the safe side. Just take your time and distribute the adjustments across the compressors as evenly as possible and they will not fly off.
Two pairs I believe is a great idea and an awesome extra measure of safety.
Quick struts usually aren’t good quality either unless you’re buying a quality set of coil overs. Bilstein makes $250 struts without spring for my car, where I can get a quick strut from Monroe for $60. Which one do you think is gonna be better quality?
Excellent video. I appreciate the emphasis on safety. I have a strut story that will reinforce that point.
In the mid to late 1990s, I replaced struts on a used Sentra. I had never done this type of work but knew it was possible. I went to a local automotive parts store and rented a spring compressor. Notice I said "a" spring compressor. They were missing one from their set but were getting paid so more than happy to rent it to me. I didn't know I needed two at that point. I get one side compressed and realize I need to compress the other side too. So, I tie some wire around the side I've compressed several times before moving onto the remaining side. At some point, the wire gave out on the first time and the spring fully extended again. I had used too few wraps of wire to hold the spring. I'm lucky I didn't lose fingers. Those springs are just plain dangerous and not to be taken lightly. If the equipment isn't in good condition, put the job off until you get what you need.
I'm doing struts again this weekend on another vehicle. I thought it would be a good idea to review the process just to be safe. Thank you again for making this video.
Great demonstration. I can attest from my own experience Quick Struts sometimes do not work out well. I bought KYB strut Plus series for my 2009 Honda CRV and had all types of issues with Clinking and spring noises. Luckily I saved my old strut assembly plus the spring and plan to put just the new struts into them and re-use most of the OEM parts. Do yourself a favor and Save your original springs etc. Just replace the strut using this method.
I've had the exact same experience with Monroe quick struts on my Hyundai Elantra. Oh man what a pain in the ass the quick strut assembly's were. Monroe has a manufacturing defect with their strut mounts on the quick strut assembly. The strut mounts wobble vertically! This caused all sorts of clunking, road noise, not to mention the alignment being off. Going the OEM route, it's expensive, but I know all the parts will be work.
Pretty sure KYB *is* OEM for CR-Vs. I’ve just changed mine on my 2003 model.
@@matthkyeah but the parts are not created equal. Manufacturers commission companies like KYB to build parts to their specific standards for OEM. KYB in the aftermarket is not the same quality. So in my experience, OEM is preferably the way to go.
Great vid. Doing a lowering spring replacement on my wrx soon and this is exactly what I needed to know. Appreciate you!
Have you done it yet I’m tryna do it too
@@gezkns1422 yeah dude, took some trial and error but totally doable by a novice. go rent the compressor tool from your local auto store
Thanks for this tutorial. My daughter's soon-to-be first car...a 1998 Deville with only 48k is in need of front struts. Already did the rears.
Thanks for the video. I’m doing it this way because Scottie Kilmer said to say away from the quick struts.
Scotty says to stay away from everything but Toyotas too.
Quick struts won't have the same springs and likely poop quality shocks you'll end up replacing after a couple years. The car won't handle the same either.
Loved the sarcasm at the end🤣 the wife’s spark doesn’t have easily available quick struts and watching this video made me confident to mess with the angry springs lol
I was lucky enough to score a near new Branick wall mount for $50, guy bought a shop for real estate and didn't know what it was. A good reason to do a strut swap instead of quickstrut is the better quality OEM springs. On the Ram 1500, OEM uses something like 40 different spring rates, tailored to specific trim levels / cab / curb weight. Few aftermarket springs match that. Much rather invest in quality aftermarket strut, and keep OEM springs.
TU and sub, nice video. I wanted to add that while quickstruts are easy to install, they're also kinda junky. I own a GTI and wanted to use Sachs OE struts, a high quality strut bearing, and VW OE coils. VW uses different coils for each style of GTI (ie, auto vs manual, 2 dr vs 4 dr, etc). There is only one model quickstrut for my vehicle. What happens is sometimes the springs are not correct for all variations and cause the front end of vehicle to raise up (see Scotty Kilmer video of him doing his wife's old Lexus SUV with quickstruts... said the 15 yr old Lexus struts still rode better than the new quickstruts).
Also, it is highly recommended that you lubricate the threads to decrease the damage and ease compression. I used Super Lube grease to lightly lubricate the threads on my spring compressors.
I have an E46 BMW and replacing the Sachs struts on the front. I'll bet any quick struts available for it are junk. Beat to do your own. Plus brand new springs on the front with the originals on the rear will probably be funny handling.
I was wondering why on my VW ( coil spring broke) that the mechanic didn't replace the set with a quick strut. He had mention that he had a hard time finding a replacement. Basically he just changed the coil springs for both sides). Now I'm looking to change my struts. Thanks to your video I can do the job myself and looking into in buying a spring compressor. You had mention to line up the top part with the bottom ? Orientation ?? I couldn't tell in our video..
Thank you so much for making this. Question: I have an old 2004 CR-V. Lots of dirt road miles on it. I was thinking about changing the shocks and keeping the springs but part of me is wondering if it would just be better to replace the entire system. I was thinking KYB quick struts. A little more expensive but could be a better option.
Thanks for the video, I have a 92 subaru and the whole assembly is discontinued so I appreciate this how to video
I plan on installing lowering springs on my car soon and this shows me what not to do for my first suspension job. Thanks dude 👍
Read mixed reviews on quality and also some springs breaking after a year or two on quick struts. For my explorer to use motorcraft again I need to go this route.
Great video. Thanks for the info. In some cases, like with my Honda Element, there aren’t many great options for the quick struts, either. I’m of course, referring to the durability of the struts we do have available. KYB, for example, makes a great shock, but their strut mount on their assemblies seems to be garbage. My Honda strut mounts are still good, so are my springs, it just makes sense to replace the leaking shock and keep everything else that’s still fine, plus OE quick struts are very expensive, at least doing it this way I only have to pay for the 0E shock.
I have an 06 Element and plan to do it the old school way too. I've heard negative things about all quick struts for the Element - including KYBs. Element Lifestyle channel tried out a couple of different front strut mounts (KYB and Duralast) before deciding OEM was the only way to go. So it'll be KYB shock, retain all other parts, except for the front strut mounts which will be replaced with Honda OEM, (about $50 each L/R). You should be able to just replace the shock in the rear and reuse everything else, unless you have severe corrosion or damage.
I'm about to replace the Sachs struts on my BMW and doubt they come pre assembled. If they do they're probably expensive.
Upgrading spring on a Honda crf125f to a heavy duty spring to accommodate an adult rider. This tool looks exactly like the ones a got from HF. Thanks for creating the video.
I stopped to double check and thank God I did haha this video was a big help man thanks
Amazing video, well i will give u an example: Here in my country, brazil, a quick strut assembly is almost NEVER an option, its 3 to 4 times more expensive.
I'm doing mine with some bars with double lickers and a semi circle bar to go between them. I'm also going to run a bicycle cable through the spring to secure it to my work bench.
I'm using OEM Sachs struts on my E46 BMW and doubt they come in quick struts.
I did my front shocks on a 4matic Mercedes with a floor jack and these make me even more nervous.
Sachs struts are truly awful. Why not use Bilstein? They are higher quality and German like your cars.
I just got off my knees doing one strut. I have a model you mention. No quick struts. Not benchable. Strut is Only sold in Japan. OEM. No after market ever. Your video helped.
I'm right there with you. Buying pre-assembled isn't even an option! Oem or nothing sadly
thank you for the video, I have a similar situation, i though going the "loaded strut " route was a good idea, however, it was not....my vehicle called for monotube coilover shocks from the factory, well "quickstruts" or loaded struts , at least the company i bought them from did fit, but it did not function well at all, first they were not monotube, hence why the rattle and did not work well at all....you have to be careful whenn buying this units...there is a reason why they are inexpensive..which i learned the hard way, i will be using this things to install my struts, once again thank you.
Thanks for this informative upload. Your knowledge and experience is very much appreciated. Keep informing the people...
very nice demonstration sir... clean work . not sloppy at all... thank you for the great tips.
Thanks for the heads up on using the old school style strut compressor with coils on the newer style trucks! I bought a spring compressor like the one you used in your video and I’ve been prolonging the use of it to install a leveling kit on my 2019 ram 1500 DT. I think I’ll just go with the pre assembled strut lift kit instead lol
Quickstruts often suck though. I installed Bilstein shocks on my 04 Jetta, replaced everything but kept the springs.
Something crazy, was that the car already had aftermarket shocks on it, and they might have been quickstruts or were improperly torqued when assembled because I literally hat to cut the spring seats to remove the springs as even after grinding flat spots to put it on a vice and hitting it with a XL half inch brushless impact I was unable to take the nuts off, insane!
I'm putting a minor lift spring on it later this winter.
Brilliant video. Very easy to understand.👍👍👍
For your own safety, get the professional type compressor (Branick) used. I got mine used for $150. A lot of people are selling them because quick struts are so cheap now. However, if you want OEM ride like the Honda's I have, then wall mount strut compressors are worth every penny.
They are like $2000 where Im from :/
I can't justify spending $600 on a tool I'm only going to use once. I bought a set like these but mine are double locking where the spring goes through and has a semicircle center bar to tie them together. I'm going to get a bicycle cable lock and chain the spring to my work bench.
Wish I could get a wall mounted unit but it wouldn't make financial sense.
I just changed mine. I now have a bunch of binding noise coming from the left front when I start, stop, or turn. Someone said it's the bearings in the top. Would that be in the top piece that comes off, or is it in the strut itself? What likely went wrong here? Maybe I overtightened?
Thanks for the vid. I'll be changing struts tomorrow on my Renault clio which is thankfully small car with tiny springs but I'm still pretty scared. Hopefully everything will go smoothly.
Take your time and be patient. If something doesn't seem right, it probably isn't.
I had to replace shocks on my 4Matic Benz without a spring compressor. The MacPherson ones won't fit as the spring coils are too close together. You have to undo the top nut and slowly lower the bottom control arm with a floor jack.
It also involves completely removing the front half shafts, undoing the sway bar and unhooking the ball joints.
How much compression do you have to compress the spring and after you decompress the spring, do you tighten that nut before you reinstall the assembly ?
Exactly! Nobody anywhere on TH-cam is addressing this issue! How far down do we tighten that top nut? And how does the amount of spring compression influence this?. Surely you only need to compress the spring to the point that it makes the top cap removal possible. PLUS.. over-compressing the springs makes the whole procedure FAR more dangerous.
I would count threads before you compress the the spring wnd when you fasten the top nut count the threads down and you should be good
I believe he said in the video you tighten the top nut all the way till it stops turning but I could be wrong.
Question on the new lowering springs I have, for the fronts only do I have to compress the new springs?
Awesome video I can find quick stretch for my car but there are about $200 more than just buying a spread so you're right
Any issues with using an impact to tighten/loosen the sprint compressor? This would seem a lot faster.
Do NOT use an impact on these compressors. Just use a ratchet and socket. Take your time. THAT is how they are intended to be used. You see people using impact guns to save time and this is how bad shit happens.
Thanks Casey. I was going to use my impact on this same compressor tool only taking my time and doing both sides evenly but after reading your comment, I think I will not use an impact because I can more easily feel the force so to speak with a socket and ratchet. 😎
Great video bro! Thanks for sharing all the tips. More power to your channel.
Great instruction from you as usual, but in my case I got an old 2002 Nissan Pathfinder, and I noticed the springs are thick and strong looking. But my main concern it's got almost 200,000 miles on it. So I figure the springs are probably getting weak, so I'll just buy two complete strut assemblys from Monroe. 😇
Great vid. Noticed you kept the old springs. How do you tell if springs need replacement?
The ride height. If it's low, they are probably sagged out and need to be replaced.
"Hey, why dont you just buy quick struts?"
Lmao. thanks man. this will help.
That is thebest way. Good job geek
Would these work on a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer, front and rear shocks ?
Do you have any recommendations for how to use the tool without taking paint off the springs?
I got the strut off my right front 2001 Ford Focus (65k miles) after renting this same spring compressor. I was worried the tool could slide down the angle of the coil spring so I wrapped all 4 contact points with blue painters tape to hopefully help prevent any sliding. We'll see cuz I haven't done the work yet. Only replacing the one bad strut mount (swivel bearing plate) as the struts and springs are still good.
Would 4 compressors be better?
I used 6
Lubricate the screw rods on your spring compressor. If you use yours as infrequently as I do, spray the whole thing clean with brake cleaner, let it dry, then grease the crap out of them. You're applying so much pressure to the compressor that you won't know if it's binding up until it's too late.
Perfect video thank you!
I hate these budget spring compressors. I have compressed numerous coil springs to change shocks over the years on various vehicles and it is a job I truly hate simply because using these compressors can be so tricky and any slippage or failure could result in a spring flying out causing serious injury or fatality.
I take my time compressing the spring winding the threads small amounts on each side. Some times I use 3 spring compressors as I think using 3 is safer than 2. Once a spring is fully compressed and I am removing it from a shock absorber I treat it very very carefully like an unexploded bomb. Only when I have the spring back on the new shock properly in place with the top nut securely on the top mount do I relax. I need to replace a pair of front shocks shortly and I am seriously considering buying an hydraulic coil spring compressor as I hate them so much. Sooner or later I feel my luck will run out if I continue to use them.
Do these work for a Ridgeline ?
Ride quality and height usually changes with quick strtuts.
very helpfull,thank you sir.
I ordered a set of bilstein shocks for my nissan titan. For some reason they dont offer a prebuilt strut for it. I only bought them because the review on them was way better on a few forums than other brands. Now I have to mount the springs or find someone to do it for me.
I think I’m being tracked 😀. I haven’t watched the video yet but actually just did this project on a 2008 Rav 4 this past Saturday without incident. The key is to stay alert, take your time, follow every caution you read and if you can, get a spring compressor with safety pins that prevent the spring from leaving the groove of the tool once you start compressing.
All good advice. I'll let Google know to stop tracking you now. 😁
@@RepairGeek If you are able to pull that off, I'll get all my friends to watch your videos and tell all their friends too :)
@@hexinli I have a better chance of seeing God haha.
@@RepairGeek Now that's funny right there!
As usual, nice job giving us the info we need to know. Thanks.
I wouldn't change it myself, but good to know, very interesting!!!!
Also need to use this method when you get lowering springs to install them on a new strut
would it be safer to use 4?
Possibly?
I cringed a few times like at 5:22 where your fingers were in places where they could be crushed if the tool let go.
Exactly plus he looked way too relaxed and comfortable moving it around and whatnot as that spring was under high tension the way it was. Idk
Love the chanel!
Whats the size of ur garage? :D
This bay is 16x28
broke 3 sets of spring compressors trying to do the top mounts on my ute. had to buy floor mount compressor to finish the job bah to so called heavy duty compressors
Checking out the tread depth in the top right at 8:46 Time for some new skins!
I'm trying to do mine on my 2016 Fusion. The Allen is on top but the nut is beneath the surface. How do I get this done?
The link for the spring compressor you are using fails. Could you update it? By the way, great video. Are a mechanic's teacher? I'm thinking of helping my son change all four struts on him 2010 Jeep Compass Limited.
amzn.to/3TLu8ie
Fixed thanks!
Awesome im doing this this week on my camry 01
Use 4 of them and mount the strut on 2 by 4 and vise at appropriate height.
So the spring can fit into the recessed part of the hook with the pin retracted but cannot fit back over the lip of the hook with the pin extended, thus achieving the locking action. Have I pictured that correctly?
Yep thats the basic premise. Like I said in the video you can't throw caution to the wind with this. Take your time compress each side evenly and use common sense, it will go fine.
If one is lowering a car with lowering springs is it possible to safely release spring tension with a loose spring?
i use an impact to compress it. no need for vise that way or even holding it too close to me.
I bought one and after watching you roll it around and touching it while loaded I feel better
With the kwik struts you get a new spring...is the new spring necessary? the old springs should still be OK unless broken?
The tension won't be the same. And the shocke rebound characteristics won't be either.
Better off with using the stock spring paired with the stock strut. Goes without saying a quick strut is better than a broken one but it won't handle the same with other hardware.
Just tried using quick struts for my Sorento, TRQ brand. Total garbage, springs are binding even after they sent me a replacement. If you want to go quick strut, at least buy something like KYB or MOOG if you can. I'm ending up having to redo the whole job with some KYB struts and mounts with the OG springs.
I just bought a TRQ strut mount (bearing), as that is the only bad part on my 2001 Ford Focus, 65k miles. lol. Was the cheapest one on the market. Idk, it seems like a quality part but since the job is already half done, I'm gonna slap it on anyway. If it lasts a year or two I'll be happy. Other brand mounts were like $47 or more and I'm frugal AF so I guess I'll see first hand if TRQ fits the bill so to speak.
Great to learn this. Question- if / when I replace mine they come with spring already so, are there some cars you have to switch spring? Or, do you do it for another reason?
Many quick struts are not up to snuff and are basically cheap clones of name-brand products. Some of these replacements will make your car ride worse than the worn-out component it replaced, since these quick struts are designed to fit several applications and won't ride like an OEM replacement. Better to put your $$ into a new, quality strut and reuse your springs for the best results. The springs seldom need replacement, unless they've been on bad roads or they're old with obvious sagging. You can always bring your old struts/springs along with the new struts down the street to your local mechanic/shop and they can swap the struts out safely in a fraction of the time it would take to use the two-piece spring compressors.
I 2nd what Keith said. Fully assembled quick struts are cheap for a reason. We're also dealing with an industry that's needlessly wasteful in the interest of making profits. Those OEM springs still have a lot of life in them. Get a quality cartridge insert and repair instead of consume
I have a hard time aligning the ear and the opposite end, it keeping moving when I’m decompressing the spring
Quick struts are almost twice the price of regular struts. I'll take my chances with the spring compressor.
Well if you lose an arm, it’ll cost you way more
Great video. Thanks!
The springs can be different from original springs and alter the ride height and the ride quality.
I just bought Amazon quick struts for my yukon xl denali and the springs are not up to oem specs and now it sits to low. Gonna swap over the springs onto the new struts
What do you use on the old diesel Colorado?
I've never changed the shocks on it. Using these small compressors on truck springs gets sketchy. Truck springs are way stronger.
@@RepairGeek I’m doing the coilover conversion on mine, and for $50 I’ll give the clamshell version of compressor a try. I’ll let you know what happens, unless I perish!🤞🤞
Great info thanks a lot!!!
Would the increase height affect camber?
Yes it will. Any changes in height will affect camber. If you're lowering it you're supposed to install w canber kit to bring thae wheel out.
Anytime you do a strut jobor tie rods or ball joints you should do an alignment.
Super helpful
Great man. Thanks!
Use trailer hitch with one inch hole in (for socket)
Had my safety squints on while watching this ahahaa
Yes, guy in vid should have had safety glasses on for real. I also felt he acted a little too comfortable the whole time that spring was compressed, moving it around and all. Things can break, parts and tools can fail.
isnt that bump stock on upside down?
Most of the Springs in the pre-built struts out there are Garbage, they are not the same tension as the OEM ones so the car will still not drive well, you'll feel it too. If you re-use the OEM springs like in this video, you are guaranteed that the the car suspension will run like when it was new.
Buy once cry once.
Secure with 2 cargo straps perpendicularity, just taking the slack, don't put them in tension (spring the compressor would loosen and slip).
Yeah unfortunately I have a couple of problems. I drive a 2016 Suburban so there's one and the other is. It uses magna ride struts that are if I get OEM close to $1,000