this guy has got to be the most advanced logic board repair engineer in the world, i do the same or similar work and i am so so jealous how advanced you are and skilled i dont think ill ever get this good , on the other hand i wont do CPU/GPU BGA jobs dont have the skills nor the equipment but just wanted to drop a line to give you the respect and credit you deserve
I agree! I was amazed to see him repair a via under a GPU BGA pad by drilling a hole through the PCB and running a botch wire. And get this... The botch had to reach a trace on the 2/3rd layer so he found a spot on the trace path where he could sand down to it without hitting other traces. Best repair work I've seen in years and he makes other TH-cam electronic repair channels look amateur. Total master.
This guy is awesome. But I would have to be an expert in repairing and would need to know all repair technicians which exists to rate him “most…. of the world”
I’ve been doing component level repair for 20 years and I’ve never been close to what you’re doing here. 2 layers, maybe 3… very impressive even with the nice tools. A true master
thats no mastery. gpu rapair is easy, the most special stuff is in the core. and they cant repair it, only change. and u can do it easy, with the right tools ^^
Did you see the video where he fixed a trace connected to a via at the GPU BGA pad? He also had to hit it's trace a couple layers down mid PCB without hitting other layer traces.
What a gut-punch! 2000 Bucks down the drain because someone thought using Liquid Metal is just like using thermal paste and didn't research proper usage first. Very expensive learning experience and a quite effective cautionary tale. Too bad about the Card - my condolences to the owner despite all else.
Hey, at least they learned it now. Lord knows what the -90 cards will cost 5 or 10 years from now, would probably suck a lot more to have to learn it then.
@Thomas B I'd assume the owner wanted to integrate the GPU into his/her Watercooling loop - which is not too problematic if done correctly. Why on earth they decided to use Liquid Metal still boggles my mind...
To watch someone do effortlessly what would make you give up. I have a dead ASUS motherboard from trying to remove the backplate to install a CPU fan, the screwdriver sliced through some trace lines. The time and effort (after putting in time and effort) and failing wasn't worth the cost of the MB. This guy could have it fixed faster than Alice could serve up minute rice. But yeah, very relaxing and interesting to watch!
i have done a lot of soldering in my life and i know my way around circuit boards, but what you do on this tiny components is like pure magic to me. keep up the great work, i love watching your videos.
@@madmartigan9720 The cheapest RTX 4090 from Gigabyte that I've found goes for €1899 where I live (which exchanges to roughly $2014 as of this post), so that's well over $2k down the drain (especially if you count the extra cost for the liquid metal, shipping for all these products, etc.).
It's never about the thermal compound used anyways, its about how much heat the cooling can dissipate, the bigger the gap in dissipation temps the faster the temp is dragged out of the chip. But too large and you cause condensation from moisture in the air.
I'm sorry, but this customer should be rewarded with some sort of diploma. They did not even try to cover the smd components surrounding the core with nail polish or other insulator, and they used the wrong tip which made way too much liquid metal spray out of the tube. As others have pointed out before me, this is a classic example of more money than wits. Hope they have a hard time recovering financially from this, so that the lesson sticks.
AFAIK 4090s have only 2 main 12V power planes. 1 for ALL the Vcore VRMs and 1 for ALL the memory power. A fuse for Vcore that wouldn't blow under regular operation would have to be rated for like 50A. MSI does put a fuse on their memory 12V power plane but they are the only manufacturer I've seen do that and they also don't have fuses for Vcore.
Damn, and I was scared to replace the thermal pads on my 3090 FE with better pads (though I finally did replace them without any issues) - I can't IMAGINE murdering an even more expensive GPU with what appears to be a completely unnecessary mod. That sucks!
@@romangruber6685 Hey, here's the idiot, who do this for fun and cause I know what I do. I optimize my systems for low temp, low noise and as much power, as needed. If you know what you're doing, it's absolutely fine and doesn't harm. My 1080 OC was running 5-6 years with 30% OC, undervolting and a max temp of 46°C for several thousands of hours and life's till today. Also my i7-6700k run the same time, mostly stock, Direct-die and a max temp of 52°C in a ultra-silent system. That's what I'd like to achieve. Actually I'm running my i9-13900k (E-Cores deactivated, cause my screws on the contact frame are to short) and a 3080ti in a silent system with max temps at 60 on the CPU and 50 on the GPU. I'm waiting for my Direct-die upgrade kit and some other parts and then I'm going in the same direction, but without an aggressive OC, cause it's not necessary at the moment. I'm enjoying such work and love to optimize the systems, as much as possible. Also liquified some laptops, with dedicated GPUs, which got a new life, cause before, they had temps nearly instant at 100°C and couldn't utilize nearly half their power.
I recently watercooled my Gainward 4090, instead of Conductonaut (Liquid Metal) I now used MX-6, performs really good and no risk as shown in the video. A little too expensive to experiment with it haha, although I always was very careful, tape off areas etc etc, never had problems but this time I was naaah, let's just use MX-6.
For water cooling GPUs, it's not necessary to use liquid metal. Just get Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. It is more than enough, with good radiator setups and fans you will not even reach 70°C on the hotspot, ever.
“But it can give me 2 degrees lower temps!!! That so much more performance I can get!” I like waterblocks. Always have and always will, just because of the aesthetic and the noise levels. Liquid Metal is only useful for delidding and relidding a CPU die.
Don't use Thermal Grizzly thermal pastes. Just use Gelid Extreme. It is literally the exact same formula, doesn't cure or dry out like Thermal Grizzly, and it costs only 20% the price of Thermal Grizzly.
Some bare minimums when using liquid metal IMO, cover the entire PCB with protection (I use paper stuck down with electrical tape) while applying to prevent accidents. Coat any caps/resistors on the die using nail polish. Use a very small amount of liquid metal, work it out using the supplied spudger. Get some pre applied ahesive open cell foam gasket strips from your local hardware store and apply around the chip so if any liquid metal escapes there is a good chance it will be caught by the foam.
don't use nail polish, use proper electrical conformal coating - nail polish contains moistourisers, vitamins/minerals with penetrators, etc.. since it's meant to go on biological matter, which may end up corroding the components over time and heat cycles. the £2 you save on using nail polish is not worth it
@@eudaimonia9386 small tubs, big jugs, sprays, toothpaste-tubes, syringes, pens... in other words yes lol. some are UV reactive though (like a solder mask) so make note if it is an needs/comes with a UV torch, or have a 24-hour cure period due to being evapourative meaning it may dry up like super glue/caulk once opened, 2 part epoxy, etc.. I honestly forget which one is "best" for this use-case (guessing silicone-based but don't quote me on that, it may be acryllic afaik), I just remember you don't want to go *too* thick else it wil impede its ability to radiate heat, but the same can be said about nail polish anyway
I see people in forums and in comments talking about using liquid metal, like it’s something to be taken lightly, I’m not using liquid metal on anything I can’t isolate. So that if it leaks out, no damage can be done. For example, on CPUs I have delidded, I always seal up the IHS so no liquid metal can escape. And I’m 100% not using it on a GPU. It’s not worth the risk for a 10C temperature reduction that might get me an extra few MHz
When I had a liquid metal spurt from the syringe that got under a memory chip on a 1070 MXM that luckily only caused a code43 in device manager, I managed to get it out using copious 90+% isopropyl and compressed air, outside, so the LM ended up somewhere in the backyard. Card still works. I have found isopropyl and paper towel is good for surface cleanup
I've washed cards in soapy water before that had nicotine stains that I got cheap. It won't hurt it any but like you mentioned, use alcohol on it then compressed air real good under all the SMD parts. Alcohol will mix with water and evaporate much better, and air drys it out. The key is completely dry under all the parts, GPU included. Having a air compressor to do it is recommended though... Lol.
I'm just blown away... I understand modifying your hardware etc but when it's brand new like that, I guess I've just never had the money to afford losing to even consider modifying something that is worth thousands of pounds and still in warranty.
Early deaths of any given hardware in the first 3 months are are anything but uncommon... this is why you have warranty. It's good to get past that stage at least. But it's more fun to wait till hardware has all its warranty lapsed and has as little residual value as possible and then go WILD.
I have put 240w and liquid metal and custom water on a brand new ryzen 3950x and got into the top 20 in the world in some benchmarks for that model of CPU, though over time more dedicated overclockers beat me. Gotta be fast if you want you name on top of the list of fastest CPUs even for a day. Probably could have done top ten if I delidded it. Maybe when I save up enough pennies to buy and delid a ryzen 7950x with some drr5... or 8950x even... It's a bit scarier to do this to GPUs since they cost more and have more vulnerable parts near by which are slightly more challenging to protect. I usually just cover everything nearby with liquid electrical tape so any spills can be peeled off. Saved a laptop from some clumsy fingers this way.
Thank you for publishing another video :D I really enjoy watching professional level repair even though I repair circuits only as a hobby. On the other hand, I would never consider repairing after such a mess from liquid metal, if I had such expensive tools.
I have used liquid metal on so many applications I even did liquid metal on my reference Rx 6900 xt when it was brand new coated $1000 and just released. Liquid metal isn't that dangerous if you know how to use it and take some precautions. I bought another MSI Rx 6900 xt trio x, put a waterblock on it and liquid metal. This time it was the closest I got to failer but my precious saved me. I cover the small components just around the die with multiple layers of nail polish. When I was spreading the liquid metal I actually spilled a little over the edge of the die but the nail polish did its job. I removed as much as I could but there are still a little bit stuck in the nail polish but hey 2 years later the card have never had any issues. So my advice to liquid metal users: 1. Coat the small components around the die with clear nail polish as thick as you can get. 2. Use both hands to push the liquid metal out. One hand holds the tube, and with the other hand you use two fingers to hold around the piston 1 mm from the tube, that way the tube acts as a stop and you don't overspill. Push 1mm, move your fingers 1mm up and repeat until it starts coming out. Also if there comes to much all of a sudden you can instantly retract the piston sucking back the liquid metal. If you use that technique you will never spill liquid metal.
@@samtaliano6814 Not a good idea because now you have to carry exposed LM over all the components, if you put too much LM on the tip and it drips or you drop the cotton bud you are fucked. In the beginning I used a coffee plate to put the LM on first and then dip the cotton tip in it. But as I said carrying exposed LM is super scary because one day you might fumble and drop it. With my method you can't mess it up, i even applied LM on my CPU today.
I'm still not a fan of that method because it requires a lot of movement. When I applied it I am standing completely still and only focusing on how much coming out of the tip. Then when the right amount has applied I pull back on the piston making sure nothing is coming out. Then I can relax and move around safely. You won't convince my to do any other methods. I have gone through 3 tubes of liquid metal so I have tried it many times at the moment and I have never had any incidents. And it should stay that way. 😉
Eww. the worst part is, it was totally unnecessary to use liquid metal at that point. But i guess, Deluxe Card, Deluxe Cooler, Deluxe "Paste". Anyway, luxuary problems that i´ll never have.
Customer should have just used Hydronaut instead of the Conductonaut (or whatever other brand of LM they might have used), and none of this would have happened.
I was just getting ready to purchase a 4090 and Im glad to hear about this gigabyte issue about the lack of fuses. With your vast experience and knowledge which of the 4090 cards manufacturers would you say is the best build quality? I have read msi but your opinion would be of greatest value. Thank you for your time and providing this type of content and information to us.
Techpowerup has PCB shots of most cards. From a cursory glance, the Palit/ Gainward Gamerock OC looks to be the most "fused-up" 4090 that has a clockspeed above 2600
I've been building and modding PC's for many long years now, I have seen liquid metal come and go from fashion and usually after a great many folks have murdered their electronics they have fallen out of vogue. I think the concept is right on the money, however we need a medium that a) doesn't munch other metals b) doesn't conduct angry pixies but c) acts exactly as a stay liquid thermal conductor. I am thinking some of the inert silicone compounds would be well suited, we know silicone is not destructive to other materials and can be made electrically inert fairly easily too, keeping it liquid so it doesn't solidify would be the key here, prob infused with nano-plastics or ceramics would give it a more stable rigidity too. Gallium is an incredible metal but will munch virtually every metal and alloy out there, even if it doesn't break metals down it will contaminate and weaken to a point of uselessness very quickly. Gallium is also incredibly adept at escaping constraints and when its cooked up produces an even nastier oxide which is how I think the stuff is escaping from PS5's, heats up, oxides, escapes as a semi gas, cools down, becomes liquid again munch munch munch bang.
Gallium has a thermal conductivity of 29 W/m K, it's actually not all that ideal as a cooling medium but some people think because it's liquid and easy to apply it must be great to use because they see it mentioned on some YT tech channels. Copper has a thermal conductivity of 400 W/m K, which is why it's perfect for heat sinks and for the lids of CPUs/GPUs but it's not "liquid" and not easy to apply. But idiots will always want that 2-4 degree C "improvement" for bragging rights while using materials which are "convenient". The best thermal conductor to use and is very malleable but chemically inert is Gold with a thermal conductivity of 320 W/m K in the form of thin gold foils, but most people don't want the expense and the inconvenience.
I've accidentally glerped liquid metal on my 6800xt. It went everywhere, but I didn't let it just sit and eat away at the solder. I immediately hit everything with CRC. Also I had clear polish on the caps around the core.
I love when clients break their things then come to me but this one, I would not even try to repair it because the amount of work is simply too much. On top of everything, the client doubled the bad behavior and tried to "fix" it himself/herself.
I suppose on the plus side, you could use the PCB itself to repair another card (well GPU chip anyway). If someone had massive PCB damage this PCB should still be intact.
Have plans to build a rig myself for the first time in 20 years so have been studying up by watching a few well known content creators who know their sh*t, so far I know enough to not mess around with liquid metal, it's conductive and corrosive, it also has a habit of solidifying with time and needs reviving. For the sake of 2° I'll stick with thermal paste, if I ever brain fart and use liquid metal on the most expensive parts of my rig you can be sure I'd let an insured professional do it instead.
17:45 he is measuring different pins, the arrow marker isnt consistent with each ram chip, is this guy full of it? Can the customer be sure he knows what hes doing? Maybe this card is fine?
Wow watching you doing these repairs is mesmerising and satisfying My 4090 after 6months gave up stopped giving monitor outputs. ( MSI 4090 GAMER X TRIO) I wonder what caused that lucky it’s still under warranty 🙏
had the exact same question for me it looks like the gpu is not dead only the ram power rail and the 3 memory ic, which you can buy at some distributor so maybe not worth the effort but at 4090 price it seems worth.
13:50 I wonder IF it is a damage from reassemble with the waterblock, the vram thermal pad thickness is set with thermal paste in mind, liquid metal is most likely thinner than thermal paste, too much mounting pressure lifting the outer part of the vram's?
You read the datasheet for the GPU. It will say what size of balls it comes with and the pitch. Also seller of stencil will state what size of balls to use. Google even can tell you.
Bin immer wieder beeindruckt, wie man an so filigranen Bauteilen arbeiten kann. Ich arbeite in einem Bereich, in welchem man scherzhafterweise alles unter M12 als Feinmechanik bezeichnet.
Mo Money, Mo Problems. Use something that is NOT electrically conductive is better on a water cooled GPU, Kryonaut Extreme or KPx are both more than capable of doing the job. As a plus they will not eat the GPU Die or the cooling plate, and as a bonus if they ooze out they will not eat the caps around the GPU Die. I did it once on a CPU and didn't think it was worth it after i saw what it did to to cold plate, it was also a pain to apply.
it doesnt even give you more headroom anymore either. i put my card on the aquacool gpx block and LM and it didn't give me any more boost bins or headroom than the factory air cooler lol, and that's even with a nearly perfect seat of the die to the cooler because i only have 7-8c difference from gpu temp to gpu hotspot, which i never achieved before. at least it runs nearly 10C cooler, but kingpin kpx paste wouldn't be far behind and is way less dangerous
In my case LM lowered hot spot by 10*C and delta was about 12*C instead of >20*C after furmark. It also allowed my GPU to go 200-300RPM lower on same load with still lower temps, so it depends on person :P
All the 4090 are well cooled, too much, the only reason to put a water block is to get rid of the enormous cooler and do a water cooled system, in top of that liquid metal always is risky because is conductive and corrosive for a tiny small amount of degrees of cooling.
@@1983Konstantin space, or they already have a custom loop and want to integrate it into it. Otherwise it does not make sense as enough ppl in the comments stated.
@@1983Konstantin Yeah it is becoming very unnecessary given the size of these cards, the fans they use are large and quiet. The space saving advantage does still exist to an extent but it's not like a radiator and all the hoses etc are tiny, it just seems like water cooling in general does not offer quite the same advantages as it once did when graphics cards in particular liked to pretend to be hairdryers.
I'm asking myself, what happens to an ultrasonic cleaner and liquid metal residue? When you try to clean such case? Did you ever try that? I use the cleaner on PCBs a lot, but not with Gallium on it. And to be honest, I stay, far away, from liquid metal. Some think they are cooling a car if I see the constructions.
2:28 Because of the simple reason that they would earn more money not to since there is higher risk that it will then be so destroyed that the customer need to buy a new one instead of be able to fix it if it has fuses everywhere.
Is it possible to comment on the manufacturing quality or reliability of the various graphics card manufacturers. I would like to buy an RTX 4090 and at that price I would not like to get a graphics card again where the soldered connections on the BGAs fail after 2 years.
We need a channel that breaks down what the customers did to mess up the card so bad. I've used LM, I'm no expert it's very easy to manage and apply but I cannot imagine how this happened...
According to Buildzoid "AFAIK 4090s have only 2 main 12V power planes. 1 for ALL the Vcore VRMs and 1 for ALL the memory power. A fuse for Vcore that wouldn't blow under regular operation would have to be rated for like 50A. MSI does put a fuse on their memory 12V power plane but they are the only manufacturer I've seen do that and they also don't have fuses for Vcore."
Given the chips are blown up, it must have been powered up with the power stages shorted. As Wolf says, far too much applied. Likely when the card was installed, the liquid metal ran everywhere and the magic smoke escaped. On the bright side, the water block is still OK. Probably.
Such a shame, only if he realised that liquid metal only would’ve given him a slight drop in temperature because it is direct dye cooling with a water block on a GPU. He should’ve used in nonconductive, high quality thermal paste
@@Oguzhan34 yeah using gallium based liquid metal is a huge mistake because it dissolves aluminium solder just about everything it touches it’s evil stuff
Just madness to see such damage for like 3% performance gain! 4090 is already quite heat effiencent with air cooling and with water cooling it was much better, i really doubt liquid metal would change temp even 5 degree. They really had no idea what they were doing...
I'm considering water cooling only to save space on the motherboard. Maybe this guy did too. He probably thought, "while I'm here, why not go the extra mile and use the best possible compound"... It's sort of reasonable. I don't think this was done just for a 3% gain, this was more of a "target of opportunity". And then shit happened.
@@TheNefastor Yeah, i understand. For a cheaper card i can also do it for just having the best performance! But doing it on 4090 is a little too far i think or perhaps they are richer than me😁
Kris, very much interested on your observation on these disconnected pads 12:50 .... as there are many users having issues of crashing with their 4090s ... could this be a wide spread issue.
Looks to me like somebody tried to apply liquid metal like regular paste with the drop on the middle technique. No liquid metal will not spread by itself over the surface, placing a drop will only cause the metal to squish itself out, liquid metal is great but it has to be applied correctly.
The video makes me think twice about ever removing the cooler from the pcb on a graphic card. Seeing the difference between the solder balls is very worrying if that's user error or even faulty soldering at the factory, especially with such an expensive card.
I have replaced paste on many of my video cards and remounting cpu coolers. It is safe to do unless you are not careful with the tools itself by accidently damaging board traces. The liquid metal is whole another story, people should not use that because the risk vb benefit is not worth it on high price cards.
You fix GPUs so well makes me wish I was a GPU so that you can fix me 😔 It amazes me, the skill and dedication and knowledge you have about things. AMAZING video, thank you. I hope right to repair starts gaining more traction!
Some people also dedicate themselves to mapping out how somebody works, where it hurts, and spends a lot of effort untangling the needlessly tangled pipes until a better-working person comes out on the other end. I think they're unicorns who don't exist though, so I wouldn't hold my breath.
The saying goes if it ain’t broke don’t bloody fix it, Definitely not worth liquid metaling 40 series !!! They’ve got beefy coolers with pretty decent temps !!!!!! Ps this dude is amazing!!!!
Hello. I have a MSI Supreme 3090 that RGB keeps flashing when under load and will shut down or restart PC instantly (no critical temps on logs). It seems to boot and work in windows, you think it would be fixable? I really want to repair this card but in my country I don't trust the repair shops
it's really fun to watch, and maybe you can still take one or the other with you. but I wouldn't dare to do it myself, first learn from someone like you who can really do it. good work
It would probably cost around 2000 dollars for repairing it lol. Because he would have to get a donor 4090 card to replace components, and it doesn't make any sense when you can spend 2000 to buy a new card. It's why he stopped the repair here.
YOu have really a lot of Galium damaged cards in. wondering if people use a low quality liquid or just put to much in, their cards look often soaked in it...wondering how it splashes so far away from the gpu. love your videos, i love watching them
I'm trying to find aa video about a 3070ti repair with bad memory because the heatsink wasn't covering the whole memory chip in an attempt to save money using 3080ti and 3080 heatsinks, but I can't find it anymore. Has it been deleted or am I imagining it and have gone crazy? The thing is I remember so many details, like the gpu beins asus, that I don't think it's my imagination.
hi, i have a RX 470 8gb, it works well for three years now, but suddenly it starts to show blank screen, what i have found was that before it goes to blak screen the GPU tempertaure goes 511'c at once fans starts to spin i ahve not any load on the GPU. what should i do
At 1st I felt bad but did they do no research? It's like They squirted a whole thing a liquid medal in there with no prep. Now I'm worried that my 4090 strix OC is going to get Oxidized. Is there any way I can help prevent that?
Could you tell us please what we can do to clean the card/PCB (like a motherboard too) if we get liquid metal/ thermal paste on it by mistake? (what to do in such cases?) if that's something we can do without expensive professional-grade equipment that is. I would love, if you wanted to, make a video on topics like the one I asked too: in terms of what to watch out for/ how to prevent your card from breaking/ being irreparable :D (I am sure you can think of many customer errors that could have been prevented)
I have not done a lot of testing so far.. But my 4090 has never even broken past like 60°C while I was playing Cyberpunk on max everything. That thing is cool and quiet. I don't see any real reason to put a water block on that card unless it's to save space and / or flex.
![Gigabyte RTX 3090 Gaming OC graphics card Repair [Not Detected] #nvidia #gpurepair](/img/n.gif)
this guy has got to be the most advanced logic board repair engineer in the world, i do the same or similar work and i am so so jealous how advanced you are and skilled i dont think ill ever get this good , on the other hand i wont do CPU/GPU BGA jobs dont have the skills nor the equipment but just wanted to drop a line to give you the respect and credit you deserve
Isn't there an apple repair guy in NYC that might be equivalent to this guy?
I agree! I was amazed to see him repair a via under a GPU BGA pad by drilling a hole through the PCB and running a botch wire. And get this... The botch had to reach a trace on the 2/3rd layer so he found a spot on the trace path where he could sand down to it without hitting other traces. Best repair work I've seen in years and he makes other TH-cam electronic repair channels look amateur. Total master.
This guy is awesome.
But I would have to be an expert in repairing and would need to know all repair technicians which exists to rate him “most…. of the world”
I’ve been doing component level repair for 20 years and I’ve never been close to what you’re doing here. 2 layers, maybe 3… very impressive even with the nice tools. A true master
im very hesitant to give spoilers but as for now they sounds like an iem, thats it, i dont hear hopes
thats no mastery. gpu rapair is easy, the most special stuff is in the core. and they cant repair it, only change. and u can do it easy, with the right tools ^^
@@fellpoweryes, that's why this is so common
@@fellpower Care to post a video?
Did you see the video where he fixed a trace connected to a via at the GPU BGA pad? He also had to hit it's trace a couple layers down mid PCB without hitting other layer traces.
What a gut-punch! 2000 Bucks down the drain because someone thought using Liquid Metal is just like using thermal paste and didn't research proper usage first. Very expensive learning experience and a quite effective cautionary tale. Too bad about the Card - my condolences to the owner despite all else.
Whoever learned this lesson clearly needed it.
Hey, at least they learned it now. Lord knows what the -90 cards will cost 5 or 10 years from now, would probably suck a lot more to have to learn it then.
People say it's a very expensive 2000 dollar mistake but if the guy has to buy another 4090, then it's actually a 4000 dollar mistake. Oof
@Thomas B I'll counter with, what goes through Joe Brandon's mind? Nuff said.
@Thomas B I'd assume the owner wanted to integrate the GPU into his/her Watercooling loop - which is not too problematic if done correctly. Why on earth they decided to use Liquid Metal still boggles my mind...
I find these kind of repair videos to be like therapy, very relaxing and satisfying.
To watch someone do effortlessly what would make you give up. I have a dead ASUS motherboard from trying to remove the backplate to install a CPU fan, the screwdriver sliced through some trace lines. The time and effort (after putting in time and effort) and failing wasn't worth the cost of the MB.
This guy could have it fixed faster than Alice could serve up minute rice.
But yeah, very relaxing and interesting to watch!
i have done a lot of soldering in my life and i know my way around circuit boards, but what you do on this tiny components is like pure magic to me.
keep up the great work, i love watching your videos.
Big ouch. Liquid metal on the gpu for 2-3°C better temperatures is not worth the trouble.
This!
Liquid metal for 1k $ less in your pocket :D
@@madmartigan9720 The cheapest RTX 4090 from Gigabyte that I've found goes for €1899 where I live (which exchanges to roughly $2014 as of this post), so that's well over $2k down the drain (especially if you count the extra cost for the liquid metal, shipping for all these products, etc.).
It's never about the thermal compound used anyways, its about how much heat the cooling can dissipate, the bigger the gap in dissipation temps the faster the temp is dragged out of the chip.
But too large and you cause condensation from moisture in the air.
it's not "2-3c" more like 5-15c
This channel is an absolute gem. Thank you for this video.
Too bad that the card was unsalvageable.
Some bad descision were made there, but an absolute joy watching you work on gpus :-)
which ones?
@@Radek__ using liquid metal when you dont know how.
@@kimborch8547 oh I thought that you are saying about Kirs, that his decisions during service/maintenance were bad.
@@Radek__ Oh, ok. No no, Kris does some amazing work on this, as well as other cards.
Putting liquid metal on electronics is something i will never understand no matter how good cooling medium it is.
I'm sorry, but this customer should be rewarded with some sort of diploma. They did not even try to cover the smd components surrounding the core with nail polish or other insulator, and they used the wrong tip which made way too much liquid metal spray out of the tube. As others have pointed out before me, this is a classic example of more money than wits. Hope they have a hard time recovering financially from this, so that the lesson sticks.
AFAIK 4090s have only 2 main 12V power planes. 1 for ALL the Vcore VRMs and 1 for ALL the memory power. A fuse for Vcore that wouldn't blow under regular operation would have to be rated for like 50A. MSI does put a fuse on their memory 12V power plane but they are the only manufacturer I've seen do that and they also don't have fuses for Vcore.
Wow, I did not know this. Thanks for the info
my MSI Suprim X (air cooled) died after the first day (no experiments, it was in original condition). 😞
Liquid metal is always the best friend of repair technicians
Damn, and I was scared to replace the thermal pads on my 3090 FE with better pads (though I finally did replace them without any issues) - I can't IMAGINE murdering an even more expensive GPU with what appears to be a completely unnecessary mod. That sucks!
Especially as you can buy reassembled water block gpus.
Only an idiot does it himself and void warranty for water block.
@@romangruber6685 Hey, here's the idiot, who do this for fun and cause I know what I do. I optimize my systems for low temp, low noise and as much power, as needed. If you know what you're doing, it's absolutely fine and doesn't harm. My 1080 OC was running 5-6 years with 30% OC, undervolting and a max temp of 46°C for several thousands of hours and life's till today. Also my i7-6700k run the same time, mostly stock, Direct-die and a max temp of 52°C in a ultra-silent system. That's what I'd like to achieve.
Actually I'm running my i9-13900k (E-Cores deactivated, cause my screws on the contact frame are to short) and a 3080ti in a silent system with max temps at 60 on the CPU and 50 on the GPU. I'm waiting for my Direct-die upgrade kit and some other parts and then I'm going in the same direction, but without an aggressive OC, cause it's not necessary at the moment.
I'm enjoying such work and love to optimize the systems, as much as possible.
Also liquified some laptops, with dedicated GPUs, which got a new life, cause before, they had temps nearly instant at 100°C and couldn't utilize nearly half their power.
@Thomas B Why?
@@PsychEngel Same question WHY what do you gain from it from my experience basically next to Zero gain .
@@petenikolic5244 I can't see his answer anymore. Do you know what he wrote?
I recently watercooled my Gainward 4090, instead of Conductonaut (Liquid Metal) I now used MX-6, performs really good and no risk as shown in the video.
A little too expensive to experiment with it haha, although I always was very careful, tape off areas etc etc, never had problems but this time I was naaah, let's just use MX-6.
For water cooling GPUs, it's not necessary to use liquid metal. Just get Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut. It is more than enough, with good radiator setups and fans you will not even reach 70°C on the hotspot, ever.
“But it can give me 2 degrees lower temps!!! That so much more performance I can get!”
I like waterblocks. Always have and always will, just because of the aesthetic and the noise levels.
Liquid Metal is only useful for delidding and relidding a CPU die.
Even though I get watercooling your card it's not even really necessary with 4090's from a temperature perspective, they're all so overbuilt.
Don't use Thermal Grizzly thermal pastes. Just use Gelid Extreme. It is literally the exact same formula, doesn't cure or dry out like Thermal Grizzly, and it costs only 20% the price of Thermal Grizzly.
This guy was just to dumb to use it. He didn't even used any protection for the transistors around the CPU
Why even bother if you are not going to go all the way?
Some bare minimums when using liquid metal IMO, cover the entire PCB with protection (I use paper stuck down with electrical tape) while applying to prevent accidents. Coat any caps/resistors on the die using nail polish. Use a very small amount of liquid metal, work it out using the supplied spudger. Get some pre applied ahesive open cell foam gasket strips from your local hardware store and apply around the chip so if any liquid metal escapes there is a good chance it will be caught by the foam.
Or just you know, dont use liquid metal... lol
don't use nail polish, use proper electrical conformal coating - nail polish contains moistourisers, vitamins/minerals with penetrators, etc.. since it's meant to go on biological matter, which may end up corroding the components over time and heat cycles. the £2 you save on using nail polish is not worth it
Or you know look at the ingredients?@@glebglub
@@glebglub Good advice! Can conformal coating be purchased in small tubs?
@@eudaimonia9386 small tubs, big jugs, sprays, toothpaste-tubes, syringes, pens... in other words yes lol. some are UV reactive though (like a solder mask) so make note if it is an needs/comes with a UV torch, or have a 24-hour cure period due to being evapourative meaning it may dry up like super glue/caulk once opened, 2 part epoxy, etc.. I honestly forget which one is "best" for this use-case (guessing silicone-based but don't quote me on that, it may be acryllic afaik), I just remember you don't want to go *too* thick else it wil impede its ability to radiate heat, but the same can be said about nail polish anyway
I love your style, calm voice and demeanor. Good audio, good camera work, all around excellent. I can watch you do repairs all day
Is it a declaration of love and marriage proposal?
thats why i didnt bother to use "liquid metal" paste on my 4090, too high risk to fuck up the card
I see people in forums and in comments talking about using liquid metal, like it’s something to be taken lightly, I’m not using liquid metal on anything I can’t isolate. So that if it leaks out, no damage can be done. For example, on CPUs I have delidded, I always seal up the IHS so no liquid metal can escape. And I’m 100% not using it on a GPU. It’s not worth the risk for a 10C temperature reduction that might get me an extra few MHz
When I had a liquid metal spurt from the syringe that got under a memory chip on a 1070 MXM that luckily only caused a code43 in device manager, I managed to get it out using copious 90+% isopropyl and compressed air, outside, so the LM ended up somewhere in the backyard. Card still works. I have found isopropyl and paper towel is good for surface cleanup
I've washed cards in soapy water before that had nicotine stains that I got cheap. It won't hurt it any but like you mentioned, use alcohol on it then compressed air real good under all the SMD parts. Alcohol will mix with water and evaporate much better, and air drys it out. The key is completely dry under all the parts, GPU included. Having a air compressor to do it is recommended though... Lol.
I'm just blown away... I understand modifying your hardware etc but when it's brand new like that, I guess I've just never had the money to afford losing to even consider modifying something that is worth thousands of pounds and still in warranty.
Early deaths of any given hardware in the first 3 months are are anything but uncommon... this is why you have warranty. It's good to get past that stage at least.
But it's more fun to wait till hardware has all its warranty lapsed and has as little residual value as possible and then go WILD.
Its like investing, dont do it if you cant afford to lose it all
I have put 240w and liquid metal and custom water on a brand new ryzen 3950x and got into the top 20 in the world in some benchmarks for that model of CPU, though over time more dedicated overclockers beat me. Gotta be fast if you want you name on top of the list of fastest CPUs even for a day. Probably could have done top ten if I delidded it. Maybe when I save up enough pennies to buy and delid a ryzen 7950x with some drr5... or 8950x even...
It's a bit scarier to do this to GPUs since they cost more and have more vulnerable parts near by which are slightly more challenging to protect. I usually just cover everything nearby with liquid electrical tape so any spills can be peeled off. Saved a laptop from some clumsy fingers this way.
Really enjoyed that, thanks. That gallium liquid metal is so dangerous in the wrong hands.
Thank you for publishing another video :D
I really enjoy watching professional level repair even though I repair circuits only as a hobby.
On the other hand, I would never consider repairing after such a mess from liquid metal, if I had such expensive tools.
Liquid metal...the gigachad method of destroying your expensive parts.
I have used liquid metal on so many applications I even did liquid metal on my reference Rx 6900 xt when it was brand new coated $1000 and just released. Liquid metal isn't that dangerous if you know how to use it and take some precautions.
I bought another MSI Rx 6900 xt trio x, put a waterblock on it and liquid metal. This time it was the closest I got to failer but my precious saved me.
I cover the small components just around the die with multiple layers of nail polish. When I was spreading the liquid metal I actually spilled a little over the edge of the die but the nail polish did its job. I removed as much as I could but there are still a little bit stuck in the nail polish but hey 2 years later the card have never had any issues.
So my advice to liquid metal users:
1. Coat the small components around the die with clear nail polish as thick as you can get.
2. Use both hands to push the liquid metal out.
One hand holds the tube, and with the other hand you use two fingers to hold around the piston 1 mm from the tube, that way the tube acts as a stop and you don't overspill. Push 1mm, move your fingers 1mm up and repeat until it starts coming out.
Also if there comes to much all of a sudden you can instantly retract the piston sucking back the liquid metal.
If you use that technique you will never spill liquid metal.
Or I just put the LM straight on to the tip of the cotton bud then on to the chip!
@@samtaliano6814 Not a good idea because now you have to carry exposed LM over all the components, if you put too much LM on the tip and it drips or you drop the cotton bud you are fucked.
In the beginning I used a coffee plate to put the LM on first and then dip the cotton tip in it. But as I said carrying exposed LM is super scary because one day you might fumble and drop it.
With my method you can't mess it up, i even applied LM on my CPU today.
@@HenrikHvalpen that's what your other hand Is for as a cup underneath the cotton bud!
I'm still not a fan of that method because it requires a lot of movement. When I applied it I am standing completely still and only focusing on how much coming out of the tip. Then when the right amount has applied I pull back on the piston making sure nothing is coming out. Then I can relax and move around safely.
You won't convince my to do any other methods. I have gone through 3 tubes of liquid metal so I have tried it many times at the moment and I have never had any incidents. And it should stay that way. 😉
@@HenrikHvalpen yes of course!! I was always iffy with how the LM came out of the syringe but yes you described the way to get it out of there!!
thank you its always fun and informative to watch your videos , hope there are much more of them
I'm developping an addiction to "GPU repair videos"
Eww. the worst part is, it was totally unnecessary to use liquid metal at that point.
But i guess, Deluxe Card, Deluxe Cooler, Deluxe "Paste".
Anyway, luxuary problems that i´ll never have.
Customer should have just used Hydronaut instead of the Conductonaut (or whatever other brand of LM they might have used), and none of this would have happened.
I was just getting ready to purchase a 4090 and Im glad to hear about this gigabyte issue about the lack of fuses. With your vast experience and knowledge which of the 4090 cards manufacturers would you say is the best build quality? I have read msi but your opinion would be of greatest value. Thank you for your time and providing this type of content and information to us.
Techpowerup has PCB shots of most cards. From a cursory glance, the Palit/ Gainward Gamerock OC looks to be the most "fused-up" 4090 that has a clockspeed above 2600
I've been building and modding PC's for many long years now, I have seen liquid metal come and go from fashion and usually after a great many folks have murdered their electronics they have fallen out of vogue. I think the concept is right on the money, however we need a medium that a) doesn't munch other metals b) doesn't conduct angry pixies but c) acts exactly as a stay liquid thermal conductor. I am thinking some of the inert silicone compounds would be well suited, we know silicone is not destructive to other materials and can be made electrically inert fairly easily too, keeping it liquid so it doesn't solidify would be the key here, prob infused with nano-plastics or ceramics would give it a more stable rigidity too. Gallium is an incredible metal but will munch virtually every metal and alloy out there, even if it doesn't break metals down it will contaminate and weaken to a point of uselessness very quickly. Gallium is also incredibly adept at escaping constraints and when its cooked up produces an even nastier oxide which is how I think the stuff is escaping from PS5's, heats up, oxides, escapes as a semi gas, cools down, becomes liquid again munch munch munch bang.
Gallium has a thermal conductivity of 29 W/m K, it's actually not all that ideal as a cooling medium but some people think because it's liquid and easy to apply it must be great to use because they see it mentioned on some YT tech channels.
Copper has a thermal conductivity of 400 W/m K, which is why it's perfect for heat sinks and for the lids of CPUs/GPUs but it's not "liquid" and not easy to apply.
But idiots will always want that 2-4 degree C "improvement" for bragging rights while using materials which are "convenient".
The best thermal conductor to use and is very malleable but chemically inert is Gold with a thermal conductivity of 320 W/m K in the form of thin gold foils, but most people don't want the expense and the inconvenience.
I've accidentally glerped liquid metal on my 6800xt. It went everywhere, but I didn't let it just sit and eat away at the solder. I immediately hit everything with CRC. Also I had clear polish on the caps around the core.
What's CRC? I would like to know in case I ever need to use it in a situation.
@@dp27thelight9 CRC is a brand, he’s probably referring to contact cleaner
@@chincemagnet I normally use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol not sure what the difference is
@@dp27thelight9 CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. Make sure it's the red lettering not the blue.
@@chincemagnet QD Electronic Cleaner actually
What kind of tool are you using form removing the liquid metal? Is it some kind of pump?
I had the same question - would like to know
I suspect it is one of the alcohol squirt bottles but empty. He is pressing and then releasing for suction
I saw another guy use a liquid metal syringe, the same one the Conductonaut comes in, to suck it up
just a pipette probably
"This is very bad" + the cost of the card = a very bad day for the owner. :O( The tangled webs we weave. Thank you for the video. Top Notch effort!
"Very good card, it was a very good card, now it's nothing" 😂😂😂
Is it possible to ultrasonic liquid metal?
I love when clients break their things then come to me but this one, I would not even try to repair it because the amount of work is simply too much. On top of everything, the client doubled the bad behavior and tried to "fix" it himself/herself.
I do not do any second repair attempts.
Pay me respect and bring me something which was not opened for repair before.
I suppose on the plus side, you could use the PCB itself to repair another card (well GPU chip anyway). If someone had massive PCB damage this PCB should still be intact.
Have plans to build a rig myself for the first time in 20 years so have been studying up by watching a few well known content creators who know their sh*t, so far I know enough to not mess around with liquid metal, it's conductive and corrosive, it also has a habit of solidifying with time and needs reviving. For the sake of 2° I'll stick with thermal paste, if I ever brain fart and use liquid metal on the most expensive parts of my rig you can be sure I'd let an insured professional do it instead.
17:45 he is measuring different pins, the arrow marker isnt consistent with each ram chip, is this guy full of it? Can the customer be sure he knows what hes doing? Maybe this card is fine?
Wow watching you doing these repairs is mesmerising and satisfying
My 4090 after 6months gave up stopped giving monitor outputs. ( MSI 4090 GAMER X TRIO)
I wonder what caused that lucky it’s still under warranty 🙏
Finally, Long time no see, lets hope for long live video ☺
How did you check that the GPU chip is broken? Maybe just 3 RAMs are bad?
if the ram is bad the gpu definitely is also shorted and even if it does work it'll have errors all through its life not worth the effort
had the exact same question for me it looks like the gpu is not dead only the ram power rail and the 3 memory ic, which you can buy at some distributor so maybe not worth the effort but at 4090 price it seems worth.
The GPU chip is measuring bad. When Vram shorts with 12V everything burns.
13:50 I wonder IF it is a damage from reassemble with the waterblock,
the vram thermal pad thickness is set with thermal paste in mind,
liquid metal is most likely thinner than thermal paste,
too much mounting pressure lifting the outer part of the vram's?
how do we determine the solder ball size to use?
You read the datasheet for the GPU. It will say what size of balls it comes with and the pitch. Also seller of stencil will state what size of balls to use. Google even can tell you.
I used LM once with a delidded 4670K. But I did my due diligence in how its done, masked everything, didn't overuse and it worked for several years.
The repair is not failed, it's just the cost to repair might be as good as buying a new one.
Bin immer wieder beeindruckt, wie man an so filigranen Bauteilen arbeiten kann. Ich arbeite in einem Bereich, in welchem man scherzhafterweise alles unter M12 als Feinmechanik bezeichnet.
Alternative video title signs that owner has too much money and not enough sense
How much would this cost to fix?
Mo Money, Mo Problems. Use something that is NOT electrically conductive is better on a water cooled GPU, Kryonaut Extreme or KPx are both more than capable of doing the job. As a plus they will not eat the GPU Die or the cooling plate, and as a bonus if they ooze out they will not eat the caps around the GPU Die. I did it once on a CPU and didn't think it was worth it after i saw what it did to to cold plate, it was also a pain to apply.
You're a modern age wizard; You show, and tell... We're very impressed as per usual my good sir :)
the godfather of cardrepair, great video
Some people are unqualified to buy PC hardware, the owner of this GPU is one of them
Liquid metal sooner or later means only problems.
In my opinion it is not worth to take such a risk.
Agreed, and the Gigabyte RTX 40 cards have very good temperatures with the stock paste and pads anyway.
it doesnt even give you more headroom anymore either. i put my card on the aquacool gpx block and LM and it didn't give me any more boost bins or headroom than the factory air cooler lol, and that's even with a nearly perfect seat of the die to the cooler because i only have 7-8c difference from gpu temp to gpu hotspot, which i never achieved before. at least it runs nearly 10C cooler, but kingpin kpx paste wouldn't be far behind and is way less dangerous
I've come to this conclusion as well... A few degrees cooler isn't worth it
@@GhostMotley never seen mine above 65.
In my case LM lowered hot spot by 10*C and delta was about 12*C instead of >20*C after furmark. It also allowed my GPU to go 200-300RPM lower on same load with still lower temps, so it depends on person :P
Why people nowadays feel they need to liquid metal everything? All the old and safe(r) ways still work very well, folks!
All the 4090 are well cooled, too much, the only reason to put a water block is to get rid of the enormous cooler and do a water cooled system, in top of that liquid metal always is risky because is conductive and corrosive for a tiny small amount of degrees of cooling.
Why do people even need liquid cooling on cards with such good cooling ! Idiocy.
@@1983Konstantin space, or they already have a custom loop and want to integrate it into it. Otherwise it does not make sense as enough ppl in the comments stated.
@@1983Konstantin Yeah it is becoming very unnecessary given the size of these cards, the fans they use are large and quiet.
The space saving advantage does still exist to an extent but it's not like a radiator and all the hoses etc are tiny, it just seems like water cooling in general does not offer quite the same advantages as it once did when graphics cards in particular liked to pretend to be hairdryers.
Same question to all the people deliding cpus that work perfectly fine.
Can you clean gallium with a sonic bath?
Or evaporate it?
I'm asking myself, what happens to an ultrasonic cleaner and liquid metal residue? When you try to clean such case? Did you ever try that? I use the cleaner on PCBs a lot, but not with Gallium on it. And to be honest, I stay, far away, from liquid metal. Some think they are cooling a car if I see the constructions.
If you're using anything but the cheapest garbage, its stainless steel. Not a problem.
Very enjoyable vid, such a shame this card was not repairable, I wouldn't ever risk liquid metal, stick to good ol non conductive thermal paste :)
2:28 Because of the simple reason that they would earn more money not to since there is higher risk that it will then be so destroyed that the customer need to buy a new one instead of be able to fix it if it has fuses everywhere.
Is it possible to comment on the manufacturing quality or reliability of the various graphics card manufacturers. I would like to buy an RTX 4090 and at that price I would not like to get a graphics card again where the soldered connections on the BGAs fail after 2 years.
We need a channel that breaks down what the customers did to mess up the card so bad. I've used LM, I'm no expert it's very easy to manage and apply but I cannot imagine how this happened...
He used too much and let it drip on the board, that's how. I can imagine it. Gallium is nasty stuff.
True magic.
Lesson I learned: Never mess with liquid metal.
That's like saying: lesson learned, never drive a car, after an accident.
Looking @ new RTX 4090 prices and ditching some fuses.... Wonder why... wonder why.
According to Buildzoid "AFAIK 4090s have only 2 main 12V power planes. 1 for ALL the Vcore VRMs and 1 for ALL the memory power. A fuse for Vcore that wouldn't blow under regular operation would have to be rated for like 50A. MSI does put a fuse on their memory 12V power plane but they are the only manufacturer I've seen do that and they also don't have fuses for Vcore."
Not sure I understand, how did the client get the liquid metal everywhere? They spilled it while trying to install a water block?
Probably used WAY TOO MUCH!
Lack of knowledge and incompetence. That's the reasons ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Given the chips are blown up, it must have been powered up with the power stages shorted. As Wolf says, far too much applied. Likely when the card was installed, the liquid metal ran everywhere and the magic smoke escaped.
On the bright side, the water block is still OK. Probably.
@@adventtrooper haha 🤣Thanks guys, I ask because I'm unfamiliar with liquid metal / water cooling, but now it makes more sense
@@adventtrooper the nickel plating probably protected it 😂
By night, Kris plays in a band called "Gallium Corrosion".
The genre is a fusion of Liquid DnB and Death Metal.
Such a shame, only if he realised that liquid metal only would’ve given him a slight drop in temperature because it is direct dye cooling with a water block on a GPU. He should’ve used in nonconductive, high quality thermal paste
Why he use gallium i dont get it. Any 4090 is working around 60-70 degrees with air cooling ...
Even he want the gpu small for his pc case he should use normal paste like u say
@@Oguzhan34 yeah using gallium based liquid metal is a huge mistake because it dissolves aluminium solder just about everything it touches it’s evil stuff
Definitely a Boss with this type of work
19:35
so Gigabyte uses low cheap power stages for the 4090 cards.
hhmmm may not soo bad as a main thing, but maybe it has a crush in 8 years then . . .
can you tell me the value of the capacitors that are usually used above the gpu, I have missing 1 pcs when cleaning it
just out of curiocity, do you also repair motherboards or just grapichs card?
Yes
Just madness to see such damage for like 3% performance gain! 4090 is already quite heat effiencent with air cooling and with water cooling it was much better, i really doubt liquid metal would change temp even 5 degree. They really had no idea what they were doing...
I'm considering water cooling only to save space on the motherboard. Maybe this guy did too. He probably thought, "while I'm here, why not go the extra mile and use the best possible compound"... It's sort of reasonable. I don't think this was done just for a 3% gain, this was more of a "target of opportunity". And then shit happened.
@@TheNefastor Yeah, i understand. For a cheaper card i can also do it for just having the best performance! But doing it on 4090 is a little too far i think or perhaps they are richer than me😁
Awesome video. Great camera work.
rip for the 4090, it was end user error, end user mostly dumb, they watching youtube then wanna try it, never ever do that to expensive card
Can you harvest the vram to use on another card?
Very nice video to look at. You explain very good aswell.
Isn't it a common sense to insulate the surrounding components when applying liquid metal?
Kris, very much interested on your observation on these disconnected pads 12:50 .... as there are many users having issues of crashing with their 4090s ... could this be a wide spread issue.
What is that tool called? It looks like a brush or even a broom, but it's a part of your soldering iron.
el estaño puede quemar una placa?
Looks to me like somebody tried to apply liquid metal like regular paste with the drop on the middle technique.
No liquid metal will not spread by itself over the surface, placing a drop will only cause the metal to squish itself out, liquid metal is great but it has to be applied correctly.
The video makes me think twice about ever removing the cooler from the pcb on a graphic card. Seeing the difference between the solder balls is very worrying if that's user error or even faulty soldering at the factory, especially with such an expensive card.
I have replaced paste on many of my video cards and remounting cpu coolers. It is safe to do unless you are not careful with the tools itself by accidently damaging board traces. The liquid metal is whole another story, people should not use that because the risk vb benefit is not worth it on high price cards.
You fix GPUs so well makes me wish I was a GPU so that you can fix me 😔
It amazes me, the skill and dedication and knowledge you have about things.
AMAZING video, thank you. I hope right to repair starts gaining more traction!
Some people also dedicate themselves to mapping out how somebody works, where it hurts, and spends a lot of effort untangling the needlessly tangled pipes until a better-working person comes out on the other end.
I think they're unicorns who don't exist though, so I wouldn't hold my breath.
Opens you up... "+12V to +1.8V short... no fix. Someone forgot to foresee a fuse."
@@SianaGearz fried for good, pray for better dad dick rng next time 🤒
Its 2023, its now accepted to identify as anything you wish to be...even a GPU. Flux me harder Zim!
@@jesses1589 Your soldering iron is so hot today ...
The saying goes if it ain’t broke don’t bloody fix it, Definitely not worth liquid metaling 40 series !!! They’ve got beefy coolers with pretty decent temps !!!!!!
Ps this dude is amazing!!!!
Yeah liquid metal is honestly stupid lol. Lets chance destroying my whole pc, for a 1 degree temperature gain.. lol
Hello. I have a MSI Supreme 3090 that RGB keeps flashing when under load and will shut down or restart PC instantly (no critical temps on logs). It seems to boot and work in windows, you think it would be fixable?
I really want to repair this card but in my country I don't trust the repair shops
Hello sir, what temperatures approximately you use to remove the chip top and bottom?
it's really fun to watch, and maybe you can still take one or the other with you. but I wouldn't dare to do it myself, first learn from someone like you who can really do it. good work
You are a wizard! Thanks, Kris!
Yeah. Liquid metal seems like too much hassle than the gains you get it out of it.
May I ask what you charge your customer for this kind of extensive cleanup/repair if you were able to fix it?
It would probably cost around 2000 dollars for repairing it lol. Because he would have to get a donor 4090 card to replace components, and it doesn't make any sense when you can spend 2000 to buy a new card. It's why he stopped the repair here.
Next level repairs !
The customer was successful. That card will stay cool forever.
YOu have really a lot of Galium damaged cards in. wondering if people use a low quality liquid or just put to much in, their cards look often soaked in it...wondering how it splashes so far away from the gpu. love your videos, i love watching them
I'm trying to find aa video about a 3070ti repair with bad memory because the heatsink wasn't covering the whole memory chip in an attempt to save money using 3080ti and 3080 heatsinks, but I can't find it anymore. Has it been deleted or am I imagining it and have gone crazy? The thing is I remember so many details, like the gpu beins asus, that I don't think it's my imagination.
hi,
i have a RX 470 8gb, it works well for three years now, but suddenly it starts to show blank screen, what i have found was that before it goes to blak screen the GPU tempertaure goes 511'c at once fans starts to spin i ahve not any load on the GPU. what should i do
putting liquid metal on anything is a recipe for disaster so putting it on a us$2000 gpu is like buying a ferrari and sticking tnt to the exhaust
At 1st I felt bad but did they do no research? It's like They squirted a whole thing a liquid medal in there with no prep. Now I'm worried that my 4090 strix OC is going to get Oxidized. Is there any way I can help prevent that?
Yes. Clean the liquid metal and repaste
Could you tell us please what we can do to clean the card/PCB (like a motherboard too) if we get liquid metal/ thermal paste on it by mistake? (what to do in such cases?) if that's something we can do without expensive professional-grade equipment that is. I would love, if you wanted to, make a video on topics like the one I asked too: in terms of what to watch out for/ how to prevent your card from breaking/ being irreparable :D (I am sure you can think of many customer errors that could have been prevented)
15:00 is like turning the RTX back on :D
i don't understand why would someone use liquid metal on a bare die that doesn't have overheating issues
I find it hard to believe that people use liquid metal so carelessly. And a 4090 with a water block doesn't even really need it.
Yep. Thermal paste keeps the hot spot under 70°C, the normal GPU average temp doesn't even reach 55°C... Why use liquid metal?
I have not done a lot of testing so far.. But my 4090 has never even broken past like 60°C while I was playing Cyberpunk on max everything. That thing is cool and quiet. I don't see any real reason to put a water block on that card unless it's to save space and / or flex.
A 4090 doesn't even need water cooling :-)
@@BenderTheOffender depends on your tolerance for fan noise
@@chincemagnet A decent gaming headset can work wonders 😉