Recalibrate again. 1. let saw idle in choke mode for 30-60 secs. regardless of temp of the saw. 2.pin throttle wide open. saw will blubber for awhile. keep throttle pinned 3. saw will eventually come out of blubber mode and start screaming. 4. keep throttle pinned until the saw goes from screaming to falling on its face. 5. after saw comes off of screaming ( even with throttle held wide open), then let off the throttle Looked like you let off the throttle too soon. Saw needs to come off of screaming mode by itself
I just bought one a couple of weeks ago and the dealer told me the saw is meant to be ran full throttle or idle. No in-between on this saw. It runs great. Best saw I have ever used though this is only my fourth saw. Had a 360 Pro before this one. Used it over 20 years. Mine is just farm use mostly. Cut hedge for fence posts quite a bit.
I have a ported 346xp also and it's my favorite saw to use I always grab it and its a 2010;model and has been ported since 2015 and it has never let me down
You obviously know more than me, but you didn’t finish the reset. When it jumped to the highest RPM, you need to wait till it steps down, then let it idle for a few seconds before shutting it off. Hope that will help! I enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
The stalling is a mystery to me. Mine has been ported for well over 2 years at this point and it doesn’t skip a beat. No matter what you do with it or however you run it.
Looks like the chain is cutting pretty darn good👍🏻 never owned an m-tronic saw so can't say for sure on the reset procedure but do think I recall something about finishing at idle and it shuts itself off when complete🤷🏻♂️
The last couple of cuts after the idle session were a lot better. If it were an older saw I would guess coil but I know nothing of the new ones. And little of the older ones. For first attemps at sq. filing it looked like it was cutting pretty good.I have been around quite a few fallers and almost without exception they file from the outside in or into the tooth. The thing about outside in is you can see better, especially the corner.You just have to figure out how to do it without chattering. Your filing clamp looks great! That should help a lot. Magnifing glasses help. May or may not have to one hand file, with other hand holding the tooth. I would stick with the double bevel files and forget the regular flat file. You make some great video's , always glad to watch them.
The stalling of the saw is caused by going from WOT (case full of fuel), to a dead stop almost instantly. Mtronic has a tough time with that scenario. Running a less aggressive chain will help to not create that scenario.
You had reset going properly but you let off too soon. When you had it pinned, keep it until it drops rpm but itself, then let off throttle and shut off
Read a Stihl MS 400 manual for instructions on how to do the calibration properly, if you want to do it right. That said, I had to do mine twice. Your assessment that the power band is narrow, is how mine is too. Kind of frustrating. Thanks for the video.
My 400 is not ported but when i go from WOT to idle mine has a second wher it hangs high then come all the way down to idle. Maybe tjenporting.messed that up or the m tronics has an isue. And when i do a relearn i do as you do other then when it hits WOT keep holding it till it.comes down onnitsnown to the half throttle again. Then its done.
Boedy also consider taking the saw to your Stihl dealer and have them re-flash the computer. That and an update kit will work for your 400 just like my 661. Is it just a coincidence that they are both ported by Eagan?
Egan didn’t port this one, there is no reflash on an mtronic. They did update coils on some of the sizes certain years to fix issues but unless they went to a re writable memory in the new ones it was a set rpm based map in the coil doing fuel adjustments. You needed change the coil to get the updated parameters.
Once you do a proper reset. Which you were close to getting correct but you let off the throttle to soon. It has to come back down to the lower rpm after it revs up high. Many people dont do it long enough. The saw will keep getting better and better as you continue to cut with it. It may take a couple tanks of fuel.
Sounds like someone went crazy with a timing advance to me. Its popping like it is anyways. Just what it sounds like to me. I feel like there’s potential there though.
Runs like my walkerized 346 (except 346 stays running) lol! All top end and can easily find rev limiter in the cut in red oak (20”). My favorite hot rodded saw, little quirky and not for everyone I suppose. IMO your 400 belongs in a multi saw stable where it has its specific role, and I don’t think it’s big wood. Overgrown limber and small firewood saw. Your test oak there, it’s not well suited for. I see your condundrum. It’s a bloated 50cc purpose saw. Might be more suited to less aggressive semi chisel that won’t bite so hard?
@@christopherlehman4045 I got you, it’s a hell of a lot stronger than my hot rodded 50cc saws, but it’s never gonna be a 462, 500i, 572 etc. hopefully he can get it ironed out w chain tuning, but it’s peaky as hell and no amount of jetting adjustments Will change “where” the power lies. I bet Bodey would agree w me, a strong ported 550/20” will get more/as much light work done in 6 hrs than this peaky ass thing. Anything required beyond a strong 50 cc, grab a 372, 462, 572 etc n lean in as hard as you want on a 24” just like he was running, those 3 saws will NOT bog, fall under their power at all! 462 is literally same weight too. It’s absolutely a niche type saw, but I’ll stick w my 346/550 (both professionally ported) duo and my soon to be returning from Randys 7900 Dolkita..
Don’t have a 400 so I’m no help. Seems that reset helped a bunch though. When running it’s seems pretty bad ass! No idea why the damn things need a reset in the first place though, you’d expect them to be constantly monitoring themselves and adjusting. 🤷🏽♂️ That chain was probably ground on a grinder and you can dress the angles wherever you want them so it’s likely that you’ll never find a file that matches. Anyway, glad you’re making progress with that saw. Probably a little difficult on you because they aren’t cheap but you and the rest of us will learn a lot more about what makes that saw tick than we would otherwise so 👍🏼
The last couple of cuts after the idle session were a lot better. If it were an older saw I would guess coil but I know nothing of the new ones. And little of the older ones. For first attemps at sq. filing it looked like it was cutting pretty good.I have been around quite a few fallers and almost without exception they file from the outside in or into the tooth. The thing about outside in is you can see better, especially the corner.You just have to figure out how to do it without chattering. Your filing clamp looks great! That should help a lot. Magnifing glasses help. May or may not have to one hand file, with other hand holding the tooth. I would stick with the double bevel files and forget the regular flat file. You make some great video's , always glad to watch them.
Got one of these myself and I love it. It’s not a super saw but it is a beast. If you want the extra torque you need to go with the 462 or the 500i.
Recalibrate again.
1. let saw idle in choke mode for 30-60 secs. regardless of temp of the saw.
2.pin throttle wide open. saw will blubber for awhile. keep throttle pinned
3. saw will eventually come out of blubber mode and start screaming.
4. keep throttle pinned until the saw goes from screaming to falling on its face.
5. after saw comes off of screaming ( even with throttle held wide open), then let off the throttle
Looked like you let off the throttle too soon. Saw needs to come off of screaming mode by itself
Yes he didnt do it long enough ,the saw has to come back down to the lower rpm before you let off the throttle.
still did the reset wrong. it goes from a low rpm to high rpm then back to low rpm. then shut it off
Some day he will get it.
I hope soon. I really want him to like that saw. I love mine@@roweinnovation
@@eddietolbert5308i want one to add to my collection.
I just bought one a couple of weeks ago and the dealer told me the saw is meant to be ran full throttle or idle. No in-between on this saw. It runs great. Best saw I have ever used though this is only my fourth saw. Had a 360 Pro before this one. Used it over 20 years. Mine is just farm use mostly. Cut hedge for fence posts quite a bit.
When it is running up in the top end, sounds super strong!
All this reset stuff is new to me. Learning things here.
I have a ported 346xp also and it's my favorite saw to use I always grab it and its a 2010;model and has been ported since 2015 and it has never let me down
You obviously know more than me, but you didn’t finish the reset. When it jumped to the highest RPM, you need to wait till it steps down, then let it idle for a few seconds before shutting it off. Hope that will help! I enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
The stalling is a mystery to me. Mine has been ported for well over 2 years at this point and it doesn’t skip a beat. No matter what you do with it or however you run it.
Looks like the chain is cutting pretty darn good👍🏻 never owned an m-tronic saw so can't say for sure on the reset procedure but do think I recall something about finishing at idle and it shuts itself off when complete🤷🏻♂️
The last couple of cuts after the idle session were a lot better. If it were an older saw I would guess coil but I know nothing of the new ones. And little of the older ones.
For first attemps at sq. filing it looked like it was cutting pretty good.I have been around quite a few fallers and almost without exception they file from the outside in or into the tooth. The thing about outside in is you can see better, especially the corner.You just have to figure out how to do it without chattering. Your filing clamp looks great! That should help a lot. Magnifing glasses help. May or may not have to one hand file, with other hand holding the tooth. I would stick with the double bevel files and forget the regular flat file. You make some great video's , always glad to watch them.
Ive never ran a ported saw!! Have read pros and cons. Will be watching more on the MS400!! Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
The stalling of the saw is caused by going from WOT (case full of fuel), to a dead stop almost instantly. Mtronic has a tough time with that scenario. Running a less aggressive chain will help to not create that scenario.
You had reset going properly but you let off too soon. When you had it pinned, keep it until it drops rpm but itself, then let off throttle and shut off
Boedy,
Stihl has a video on TH-cam about the M-Tronic reset. Watch that and it should be really helpful.
Read a Stihl MS 400 manual for instructions on how to do the calibration properly, if you want to do it right. That said, I had to do mine twice. Your assessment that the power band is narrow, is how mine is too. Kind of frustrating. Thanks for the video.
My 400 is not ported but when i go from WOT to idle mine has a second wher it hangs high then come all the way down to idle. Maybe tjenporting.messed that up or the m tronics has an isue.
And when i do a relearn i do as you do other then when it hits WOT keep holding it till it.comes down onnitsnown to the half throttle again. Then its done.
I don’t get the resetting thing. If it’s an m tronic saw they adjust themselves multiple times per second. So what does the reset do?
Just curious what bar oil do you use Boedy? I know it must be getting cold in Georgia.
do you know anything about dynoJoe? is he still on vacation? I don't see new videos anymore
Your reset was not long enough wait until it stops screaming on high side
Boedy also consider taking the saw to your Stihl dealer and have them re-flash the computer. That and an update kit will work for your 400 just like my 661. Is it just a coincidence that they are both ported by Eagan?
Egan didn’t port this one, there is no reflash on an mtronic. They did update coils on some of the sizes certain years to fix issues but unless they went to a re writable memory in the new ones it was a set rpm based map in the coil doing fuel adjustments. You needed change the coil to get the updated parameters.
M tronic didnt complete its self tuning cycle. you shut it off too soon.
Once you do a proper reset. Which you were close to getting correct but you let off the throttle to soon. It has to come back down to the lower rpm after it revs up high. Many people dont do it long enough. The saw will keep getting better and better as you continue to cut with it. It may take a couple tanks of fuel.
A good nut and bolt supply for springs😊
Fastenal
Doug was wrong about you you know how to run a saw pretty good 👍🏽
Damn its a screaming saw for sure! I wonder if in time run it will just become a normal running saw? Anyways thats better than it was!
Did you advance the timing on this saw?
Sounds like someone went crazy with a timing advance to me. Its popping like it is anyways. Just what it sounds like to me. I feel like there’s potential there though.
Runs like my walkerized 346 (except 346 stays running) lol! All top end and can easily find rev limiter in the cut in red oak (20”). My favorite hot rodded saw, little quirky and not for everyone I suppose. IMO your 400 belongs in a multi saw stable where it has its specific role, and I don’t think it’s big wood. Overgrown limber and small firewood saw. Your test oak there, it’s not well suited for. I see your condundrum. It’s a bloated 50cc purpose saw. Might be more suited to less aggressive semi chisel that won’t bite so hard?
It’s 67cc and after everything is straightened out it runs way stronger than a 50cc
@@christopherlehman4045 I got you, it’s a hell of a lot stronger than my hot rodded 50cc saws, but it’s never gonna be a 462, 500i, 572 etc. hopefully he can get it ironed out w chain tuning, but it’s peaky as hell and no amount of jetting adjustments Will change “where” the power lies. I bet Bodey would agree w me, a strong ported 550/20” will get more/as much light work done in 6 hrs than this peaky ass thing. Anything required beyond a strong 50 cc, grab a 372, 462, 572 etc n lean in as hard as you want on a 24” just like he was running, those 3 saws will NOT bog, fall under their power at all! 462 is literally same weight too. It’s absolutely a niche type saw, but I’ll stick w my 346/550 (both professionally ported) duo and my soon to be returning from Randys 7900 Dolkita..
What glasses are you wearing?
Don’t have a 400 so I’m no help. Seems that reset helped a bunch though. When running it’s seems pretty bad ass! No idea why the damn things need a reset in the first place though, you’d expect them to be constantly monitoring themselves and adjusting. 🤷🏽♂️
That chain was probably ground on a grinder and you can dress the angles wherever you want them so it’s likely that you’ll never find a file that matches.
Anyway, glad you’re making progress with that saw. Probably a little difficult on you because they aren’t cheap but you and the rest of us will learn a lot more about what makes that saw tick than we would otherwise so 👍🏼
Charles Brisco fixed the part throttle issue on his 261 by bending the metering lever. You could ask him for more details on what it was exactly.
thats a carb saw.
@@Rob-tl9md Mtronic is a carb. It electronically tunes for high and low but the carb still has a metering lever to mix the mid range.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 ahh. had a few. never owned em long enough to go inside em.
Man I feel for you buddy I know that’s a pretty expensive saw
Still did the reset wrong bro
Going back these last couple videos I've seen about 300 people say about 300 different reset procedures 🤣
With a recommended price of €1274.... It's a bit salty. It should be perfect. But that's just me, everyone drinks whatever tea they want.👍
Ported saws can be a bit finicky.
I wonder if the timing is advanced to much ? May try retarding it back acouple degrees.
What is your intake number?
im saying it i dont like way it runs i have 462 ported by LSD Powersaws lol myself love my 462 if it ran like that id cry thx for vid
30 sec at idle, 30 40 sec full throttle, 30 at idle, then it turns off by itself,you skipped the last part
There’s clearly something wrong with it it should not be stalling
Few more tanks of fuel it will be perfect.
D n t b a y
comment
Ms 400 id the worst chainsaw in the market ! autotune better
The last couple of cuts after the idle session were a lot better. If it were an older saw I would guess coil but I know nothing of the new ones. And little of the older ones.
For first attemps at sq. filing it looked like it was cutting pretty good.I have been around quite a few fallers and almost without exception they file from the outside in or into the tooth. The thing about outside in is you can see better, especially the corner.You just have to figure out how to do it without chattering. Your filing clamp looks great! That should help a lot. Magnifing glasses help. May or may not have to one hand file, with other hand holding the tooth. I would stick with the double bevel files and forget the regular flat file. You make some great video's , always glad to watch them.