FAILED Plumbing Inspection! How Badly Did We Screw Up?
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#plumbing #plumbingwork
So your plumber didn't spot two sinks on one arm as a problem?
I have to ask, why are they taping and doping the screw in test balloons? The purpose of the balloon is to be pumped up to fill in the space completely, stopping all water movement at that point so the balloon should also stop water from coming out the screw port. It’s a pointless step is it not?
'In addition to these County requirements, the State of Idaho requires an electrical inspection and a plumbing inspection, administered through the Idaho Division of Building Safety. If you are installing a septic system, a permit is required from Panhandle Health; if you are drilling a well, a permit is required from the Idaho Department of Water Resources; and if you are building or improving a driveway connecting to a county road, a permit from County Road and Bridge is required. Information on each agency is provided below." - this is why they have an inspection.
Keep in mind, your going to loose another ~1 inch of clearance when you put drywall beside that cabinet and a 1/4 inch filler strip on the side of the cabinet so your drawers don't drag on the wall.
Hint: Don't 'tick off' the inspector.....He can be your best friend or worse enemy.......There are tons of 'little' code issues they can nail you on and make your life miserable....
Of all the types of PEX fitting connection methods, that one is probably the worst.
Don't understand. You keep saying you are not subject to codes then you have to have an inspector to see if your plumbing is to code?
In Idaho you have State inspection required for plumbing and electrical systems. Some counties require Building inspections and some don't. So the Building its self has no code requirements but the mechanical systems have to meet the State codes no matter where you live in Idaho.
They need to make certain that they're in as full compliance as possible with the Plumbing and Electrical Codes in order to preserve the future-insurability of their homestead, and also to make it a fully-marketable property should they eventually decide to sell the place and re-locate elsewhere sometime in the future. Also - it could be that they may need to comply with any local/County/State rules concerning Residential Occupancy certification(s). Without full compliance with stuff like that - they can probably live in that house themselves, on that property, with no problem(s)...there really isn't (at this point) a local set of Construction/Building Codes...but, the potential property-value(s) would be rather seriously-diminished.
probably helps when you try to get homeowners insurance to show passed inspections, and things up to code.
I'm not familiar with the codes where these people are living (Idaho ?) My guess would be if you want to finance the home through a bank, GUESS WHAT, they {the bank/lending institution} will only lend on a structure that meets code.
I as a welder / metal fabricator alway's wanted to build my own wood burning stove, but learned very early, that if I built one & installed it in my house, & if the house were to burn down as a result of my wood stove, the insurance company would not pay out, BECAUSE IT WASN'T "U-L" Listed. (“UL” is short for Underwriters Laboratories.) Looked into what it would take. In short a testing (for U-L Certification) of a stove I built would cost approx. $10,000. in the early 1980's. I purchased a wood stove for $600.00 instead, brand new with the U-L label, and inspected by the county, a lot cheaper.
As far a I understand they want something's done to code....
When you start buying water shut offs. Get the more expensive 1/4 turns. You will thank yourself later.
THIS X100000000
1/4 turns valves are crap the extra you pay is not for quality, it's for the look and design. Always buy valves you can service in the future, 95% of the time all you need is an "O" ring or washer. 1/4 turn you would have to replace the valve.
Why are you using Teflon tape and pipe dope on the test stop plug ?
The higher pressurization used to leak-test the system requires the use of that balloon-ended test stop plug, but the additional pressure could easily make the plug stick when it is removed later (in order to put the regular access-plug into place), and/or using only the teflon tape or the pipe dope on the test plug MIGHT allow some seepage/leakage during the test process - thus, the use of BOTH the tape AND the dope on the test plug gives a bit of extra-insurance that the seal will remain good during the test, AND that the test plug will be readily-removable without damage to the threads on the (black) D-W-V pipe fitting(s).
Hope that helps -
I wondered that too.
Was going to ask the same thing. It's like belt and suspenders. . . .
Is this a trick question? So they don't leak during testing....
Amazing to watch 2 people age 10 years in only 2.
HEY. STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING RIGHT NOW. *Your PEX plumbing is going to fail. All of it is going to fail.*
You are using the wrong fittings for those cinch rings. Cinch rings can *ONLY* be used with brass fittings. Your nylon fittings need copper crimp rings, NOT cinch rings. DO NOT WALL IN. Go get a crimp tool and copper crimp rings and do it right; massive water damage in a timber frame home is a terrible idea, and these fittings *WILL* begin to leak inside the walls.
It's all about the point where your lateral/horizontal branch arm starts, the "branch arm" is the horizontal transition between the waste line "down" and the vent line "up". You could re-position the branch arm transition point by running a "T" from your vertical 4" main stack with a 2" lateral line like your original branch arm but it must be lower than trap height. Once below the center-line of your traps 90 up "vertical" to trap height, put a double san-tee at trap height with the branch arms extending out of the wall toward the sink traps "back to back sinks". Finally continue 1-1/2" vent from the double san-tees up above sink rim height minimum and turn the vent back to the 4" main vert stack as a re-vent or continue up through the roof as a dedicated vent. PS Test water column height is 10 foot, top off leave the hose in the top so inspector can top off to inspect for leaks.
Jesse, if I spent as much time working on my knees during this video as you did I''d be fully crippled for life! ; )
Bug-a-Boo is so cute. I love the way he interacts with the 2 of you. Glad you are learning about plumbing now, as from experience I know you will need that knowledge in the future. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe.
"Chances are it's code for a reason."
Jesse & Alyssa, sorru ya failed the plumbing inspection, but by now you both have become (master experts) at problem resolutions your very skilled at that and hope that the second time around you'll
rocket on past the second inspection! hang in there with the rest of your build. Thanks for finding time to keep your subscribers in the loop! keep up the good work.
suggestion: cover the garage side of the bathroom walls with plywood secured by screws. that way if you ever need a plumbing repair, you can pop off the plywwod panel from the garage side without having to damage the sheetrock on the bathroom side.
IIRC perhaps if you had vents off the two sink drains before they joined that would have been OK, since the trap arm ends at the vent. You would have been joining two horizontal drains (not trap arms) with the Y. Although the two vents could join together above the flood lines of the sinks, ultimately, the vent would have to run up through the house to join the stack above all (future) fixtures.
If i was you i would run ethernet cables in every room because it's really easy to do right now!, in the future internet gets faster and Wi-Fi wouldn't be able to deliver that speed
Maybe you should stub out the
cold water that you capped for use as an water/ice maker supply.
I so feel your pain with this inspector; namely I know his name... and I am in a similar stage in construction.... Nice guy, but by the book for sure!
Please tell us you did not hook on the vanity’s plumbing without leaving space for drywall...
Might want to add some drywall behind the vanity and the toilet before you hook everything up.
I was wondering that... But I'm the guy that tiles a bathroom *before* fitting the bath and loo :)
Thank you for showing us how to build your own home, debt-free, with your own two hands! ;)
I don't for the life of me understand how you had a PLUMBER help you with the bathroom and it did not pass inspection ??? There was nothing wrong with the two 1-1/2 traps on the two inch waste arm, that's legal most everywhere. A lot of inspectors with big egos will nitpick about every little thing . 50 year retired plumber.
Stop being so quick to glue, cut and fit everything together first and then after you know it's all right go back and glue it.
In Norway you don't glue at all. For waste pipes, you buy connectors with builtin o-rings and just slot everything together.
You are ignoring the time collapse of video editing - go view again and you will find that disassembly occurs often and easily during fitting.
But then they cant make more videos fixing all the stuff ups
Not on a whole house re rough...If you try to disassemble EVERYTHING after you're in, it'll NEVER work...The fittings go in deeper when they're glued...for a single sink rough in; you're right...
Fred,, very few drain pipes, pvc , abs,, slip together to full depth, almost impossible. If you do get them seated,, you may not be able to pull them apart. Plastic to plastic is sticky and the fittings are tapered. The glue not only glues,, it is also the lubricant for the full depth installation.
I just installed that same type of sink drain that is a pop up. I personally hate it. You have to put your hand in the dirty water in order to drain it. The old style with a push rod to open and close is much better. Just my 2 Cents. I love your videos. thanks for being my time killer!
I thought that your area did not have codes.
In Idaho you have State inspection required for plumbing and electrical systems. Some counties require Building inspections and some don't. So the Building its self has no code requirements but the mechanical systems have to meet the State codes no matter where you live in Idaho.
Idaho requires septic permit/inspection, but their county doesn't require other construction permits. See th-cam.com/video/ccgq7DAHy7M/w-d-xo.html
The catch is Building codes they don't have, plumbing and I think electrical codes they have.
Great video. Nice to show the process of fixing things that seem right and then need to be fixed later. Great patience and attention to detail. Wow 11 inch insulated walls. That is about R30? That is near attic insulation around here. Walls are R13 in 2018. You could use solar tube style hot water to heat that house and give hot water with a backup heater. Be good to get your heat load from your architect using manual J. I am guessing you will only need 30000 btu to heat that in winter. In summer hard to guess but use a small system as it will dehumidify better.
Please go through the walls for all your penetrations. You have a perfectly good roof and to penetrate that for a vent is sacrilege. It is almost meteor proof. It is fire proof and you should get at least a 5% reduction on your home insurance due to metal. I get that here in Texas. That metal dissipates the heat so if an ember drops onto it the metal dissipates it to non burnable below. That is the biggest cause of fire spreading is stuff dropping onto roofs from the sky.
Kudos
Chances are, it's code for a reason... the reason is, you take 100's of years of building to experience to give the safest, most comfortable living environment possible.
Is that like the Lazy-boy mandate.
I've never seen a building code that worried about my comfort. Safety and durability, but never comfort.
Erixx Haxx I have however been made to do a lot of dumb things that make zero sense in order to meet “code” sometimes it’s a bit of a joke
While you have the tubing out in the open, make sure to make a drawing of the exact placement that way you can avoid punching holes when you have the walls cover the pipes up and you mount items on those walls.
There are literally 1000's of building codes that are constantly being revised and added to. I've been in the construction industry for 35 years and constantly see professionals fail inspections for 1 or 2 minor things. Not that big of a deal, you correct them and move on. Fact is, although some codes seem ridiculous and petty the majority of them make sure you are building a safe home for you and your family and anyone else that might be visiting or living in the house. As far as inspectors go... I have had to deal with a few that defiantly abuse their authority and request you do things that are based on their opinion rather than written code. I know you don't necessarily want to create any animosity between you and your inspector but if you think he/she is asking you to make a change or failing you for something that you don't believe is a code requirement simply ask them if they can show you in the code book where it is so you understand. If they can't then you question whether they can fail you for it.
I had reason to replace the sink in my bathroom, and by chance, my local hardware store was having a clearance on a marble countertop/underslung sink combo for about the price of a sink. Rather than re-use the old (stupidly shallow + short) typical bathroom taps, I chose to install what typically gets installed with a bar sink… so not only does the faucet swing out of the way, but it’s tall enough to ACTUALLY GET YOUR ARMS UNDER it, also, things like, oh, I dunno A BUCKET… even a 5 gallon water cooler jug… Standard bathroom taps are the most stupid things in the world. Except for perhaps the UK habit of one tap + spout for each of the hot+cold...
The UK code is because it dates back to when the cold water came from a tank in the attic that could get contaminated if an animal got into it.
I guess this is a good learning exercise, but I would never call an inspection for a temporary bathroom. If your going to keep it that is a different story. Anyway. Good to see this kind of stuff happens to people other than me. :)
"Temporary" in this instance could be many years.
You might want to consider plasing washer dryer in storage room making it laundry room gives more room for efuipment or car
The codes (if they exist) are not secret. Surely you could do your own inspection first (would catch things like you need 15" from the toilet centre), then (if required) get a full inspection done saves money in the long run, only pay for inspection once. If you have already checked everything you are virtually bound to pass. Most things are documented, there are very few opinions in codes. Expect any inspector to be a hardass, he/she/it will not let anything slide, and there 'should' be no surprises(if he/she/it is not a hardass and advises you... BONUS).
Those dead end pipes in the fresh water, code or not, are a serious hazard. Bacteria will grow in there.
Impressed with your amazing progress but now that you are getting into plumbing (and electrical next), less clowning and laughing and interruptions will result in fewer mistakes.
N913C clowning and laughing makes for happy workers, happy workers make less mistakes and work faster..
I have never heard of joint compound and tape does anyone else do that
Most plumbers. Check out Steve lavs channel
PTFE jointing tape is used all the time in the UK on threaded joints. Jointing compound, for example Boss White is also common.
You aint done much plumbing then, have you mate?
yep, tape then dope . works perfect.
Have not seen BOTH used on the same fitting, usually one or the other.
I’m not a plumber so what I’m about to say may not be 100% correct, but in the U.K. you’re not allowed to tee off a soil stack inside the house. Waste water from sinks and washing machines gets taken outside in a smaller diameter pipe and then free flows into an external drain. That drain then joins up with all the rest of the waste underground in a small pit that then joins up to the sewer or soak away.
Some of the above may be outdated and new fittings etc means building codes may have changed.
A pit? That is for when the exterior drainage isn't designed correctly. Gravity powers U.S. drain systems.
when you build a house "to code", you're building the worst house you can legally build....think about it....code is the minimum standard
Great plumbing job ! Also, that was the longest drill extension that I have ever seen ! Good luck on your inspection so that you can use your stinky toilet ha ha ! Thanks !
Sanitary crosses are not code where I live. We use high low tees. 🤦🏻♂️
if you are using PEX fittings, do yourself a favour and use the brass fittings instead of plastic and the compressing copper rings ..... you'll thank yourself in 10 years....
One way air valve .. i thought was called a studor vent...
PLEASE RETURN THE VANITY... If you purchased the open no box vanity and other items from the Home Depot big box take they back they will give you a refund. I worked at several stores for 10 years HD's policy from every CEO they've had is take everything back. A Home Depot location years ago that was built on a former Firestone Tire store location had an elderly customer bring in tires to return but HD doesn't sell car tires. The manager made the decision to find a way to give a refund to the customer and the story is still used in new employee training today. Home Depot knows that you'll spend the money they refund you for the vanity plus a lot more fairly soon so they see it as an investment.
Hey, bugaboo is the property guard. He has to check out everything that comes onto the property :) Always test fit everything together, then go back and glue. The crimp collars on pex aren't that great. A lot of people have problems with them later on.
Like Jesse said those that don't know there are venting systems that are not required to be vented outside and are to code where I live......I have one in the basement and one on the 1st floor /to code.
Bugaboo was doing a CT scan on the truck and cabinet....looks like he pass it,hope the inspector is have a great day,and you pass as well..have a great weekend..
I really like Bugaboo as he replies to most things that are said. great company.
And you can make the wall thinner by using furring strips instead of studs
Code is the minimum. Half inch under is a fail. I've used toilets that just meet code, and they are a tight fit, especially for a large bloke. You won't regret having more room than the minimum code.
I have the same set up in my sewing room and we put a robe hook on the right side of the sink to hang my hair dryer on. You just don’t want to lay it on such a small countertop because of ⚡️. Hope that thought helps😇😇😇
I have a similar bathroom sink that came with my house. If I was to buy another sink, I'd buy one with a flat bottom like in my kitchen not a curved bottom like you have. The curved bottom is just hard to do any real work done. I know you'll have the utility sink just around the corner but it's just weird setting a water bottle down and have it leaning because of the curved sink bottom. 💜🌞🌵
Do not I repeat Do not Penetrate the roof ! Put all you're venting out the side walls
those steel compression fittings are a no go (use the copper rings type instead) those steel ones are notorious for failing
As I'm reading all these comments and suggestions..., do the viewers not know that this video was created months ago and the bathroom is in reality already completed? Hey, still some good tips for others, but just a little funny that some think this is occurring in real time and that their ideas might be used by these two, before the next inspection...
Yeah they done popped a squat weeks ago.
They have already finished the stairs on Instagram.
one think i learned is when an inspector tells you that you failed and then tells you how to correct it... they expect nothing less.. the same would be for testing.. if they tell you.. then you do it. thats all I can offer about that
Where will they be sleeping? in the camper inside the garage?
You may think that the smell from your septic system is bad, but it is far from the worst smell in the world? If you decide to keep chickens or any other poultry on your property that you intend to slaughter and butcher yourselves, please take heed of this advice. Make sure that you either bag up and seal for disposal, or preferably burn any carcasses or any other remains of raw uncooked parts of any bird that you slaughter. This is because the decay process in poultry starts very quickly. Especially in the temperatures that you have been experiencing recently. Believe it or not, you can get used to the smell of human and other animal waste over time to the point that you no longer notice it. Ask any livestock farmer. But you will never get used to the smell of rotting poultry. I spent 12 years working as a maintenance engineer in a food factory that had meat of all types being used in it's various processes, and you do get used to most of the smells associated with working in a plant like this. And being a maintenance engineer, I did my fair share of drain unblocking and sump emptying. And I managed will everything EXCEPT the poultry department. If there was a blockage in any part of that system, I had to wear full respirator gear as just one whiff of the decomposing poultry was enough to have you bring up anything you had eaten or drank in the previous 24 hours. That smell is something you can never get used to.
I wouldn’t of used the cross ty but stacked Ty’s so you don’t have problems later with snaking drains. Use a tank topper over toilet for added storage.
Sorry things didn't pass but that's the things that makes us wiser
Oh my goodness those stainless cinch plumbing rings are doomed to fail!! Why use them? You have a whole house to do. Vega pureflow with bronze fittings is the way to go!! Plus they sell a power crimper for it!
Best of luck
Again as a plumber I’m cringing
What are the major problems as you see them?
Look away?
Then, as a plumber, you are being a jerk.
FYI, Polystyrene a.k.a EPS is cheap. By my math at an 8" depth, you just removed $0.07 of EPS at cost from your home.
Didn't you have the same fail with your floor drains when you did the slab plumbing?
Nope.
You should look up sure seal. I use them in floor drains instead of trap primers.
It’s interesting to see the comparisons between country’s as to common practices and materials for plumbing. I must say, compared to Australian setups, seems overly complicated and over engineered. And by that I mean heavy walled waste pipe and why so many elbows in the h/c supply? Does that piping not bend at all?
@ Jesse: you shouldn't use phrases like "screw up" while talking about the house, cos that house has got enough screws in it to shift the Earth's magnetic field a bit... ;D
I've watched almost all of their videos, but I don't remember what kind of septic system they're using. Anyone?
That is hilarious! Very Good! (Allysa) How big is that thing? Referring of course to Jesse"s drill extension!
Mr Boo was sampling that new bad smell, hope you feed him chicken and parsley to clean his pallet??? I see a pizza oven, off the back of the kitchen, on the way to the hot tub. Can you guys have a snow ball fight when you get some decent snowfall??? Yes, I will have snow envy. You guys are kicking bleep! ❤️👍✌️
One thing you need to learn, never piss off a inspector.. You just got your private pilot license.. You should know how they look at you when something isn't right... Myself I work on them flying turds... Who you think going to be the first one to look at? PIC or A&P? just saying.
Oh well live & learn !!
Hope it goes well You 2 need some good luck !
make the 1/4 inch great again.
I'm surprised the plumber didn't see this coming! But since he let you use 90-degree fittings in your water lines instead of just using the pex bend supports, I shouldn't be. Nice recovery and keep chipping away, you'll get there.
This one is really funny! Had me LOL a lot!! Music went well with the funny parts, too.😊❤️👍
Is this some sort of joke? A bath/shower, a toilet and a sink - I can't understand why its sooooo complicated. All those solvent weld shallow bends and shallow gradients, all with glue protruding into the pipework on the horizontal pipe runs that will end up hidden behind the plaster board partitions will result in years of pain.
For all building code =/= environmental or septic code.
State environmental codes are strict but building codes are usually state or county enforced. I know most are not aware but a simple Google search will do the trick.
So lemme get his straight. It is perfectly fine in the US to build a house out of OSB, styrofoam and tin can material, all randomly glued and screwed together, but Oh Noes if your bog is a bit too close to your sink? Madness, pure madness.
The SIPs are probably not allowed in many areas. They are leading edge, high tech, high efficiency and that has a lot to do with why Alyssa and Jesse chose this area, which doesn't require building permits. However, they are committed to building to code where it makes sense for possible resale someday. See th-cam.com/video/ccgq7DAHy7M/w-d-xo.html from about a year ago where they discuss the "ugly truth of no building codes".
you will looooove the luxury of having a shower, synk and a beautiful regular toilet!!!!😍
They aren’t subject to code, but it’s a good ideal there’re having it inspected. If and when they go to sell the property, it could cause a problem for the new owners to get a loan on a house that wasn’t inspected and they may not get their full asking price also.
How do you fail when the guy that helped is a plumber?
The vent you are talking about is called a studer valve, one way vent. A suggestion, you might want to invest in the most current national building codes as well as the electrical and plumbing codes. When building our house after hurricane Katrina, I made a couple of mistakes on the electrical, i.e. did not have a dedicated circuit to the fridge and dishwasher. It was an easy fix and was done on the spot. After the inspection, I asked what reference he was referencing to as I had the plumbing codes out, looking for it. He was able to show me and at that point he congratulated us for trying to be in code. He stated so many contractors do miss items but never want to reference when challenging the references. Good luck as we both have the same ideas when it comes to building a house. Last suggestion, inspector wins all the time so do not piss them off, be nice, be firm and show them in writing the codes you referenced and you might be able to win them over.
Bugaboo and friends. Wholesome viewing is so pleasant. Thank you for all your efforts in sharing your lives with us.
Greet your inspector with coffee and apple pie. He probably won't take it, but still, he can be your best friend that teaches a thing or two or he can make your life a nightmare. I've built 3 homes on my own and things can get bad. If he suggests doing something a certain way, just do it because he suggested it. Respecting his idea will go along way. Especially with more plumbing to do upstairs! Good luck!
I spied some carboys and airlocks in the background, When are we going to see some mead making.
this bathroom is the 'learning experience' one.
Right!? Now when the do the upstairs they are going to have a wealth of knowledge to work off of.
Hey!
Is it allowed for you to have hidden joints for tap water in the wall?
In Sweden this is not allowed and it is solved with a branch cabinet with leakage indication.
We also use pipe in pipe systems to help you replace broken pipes without tearing the entire wetzone
thanks for a good channel
Sincerely, Jonas
You guys might have problems with that bathroom vanity on your drawer side to the drywall when she sheetrock that wall you're not going to be able to open them drawers
I am surprised you are NOT use an interior plumbing vent (a.k.a. Air Admittance Valve). No exterior wall penetration and no smell.
Different type of PEX crimp rings are very easy to remove. You can replace a whole section of pipe and not have any splices.
Technical that is not what a vent is for. I just found this on you tube.
In Idaho, isn't a bathroom in a garage going to be at risk of freezing?
Ok so I didn’t see where you explained WHY YOU FAILED....then we can understand it all better.
Your temp bladder stop requires,, at least most do, (I've not seen your model) no pipe dope or tape,, you can usually just thread them in finger tight. It is inflation of the bladder that seals the pipe. I have used just a dot of dish soap to ease install and removal. Dish soap can be removed with a wet sponge afterward. You have a good plumbing inspector, sharp. To ease the next round, many inspectors will make a polite pre-work or pre-inspection to give guidance. Ask. Saves time, saves money.
Setup working staircase safer than ladders
You guys inspire me and take away my depression keep it up
Water leak waiting to happen