The TY fitting you see at the beginning of this video was specified by the homeowner. This NH town had NO plumbing inspections. An inspector would have FAILED the installation as we all know.
Simple. The homeowner felt that a snake would have a better chance of clearing a clog at the end of the branch arm if it was pointed down instead of drilling a hole into the side of the stack. It's a valid concern. The sink functions properly. Even when you fill it with water and pull the plug, the last slug of water doesn't syphon the trap.
@@askthebuilder Thanks for the reply and the great video! Definitely understand the concern, I've had snakes try and go the wrong way in san-tees before.
@@askthebuilderhello, can you please pinpoint the timeframe of the TY that is in reference so that I can further understand the scenario. Much appreciated. Thank you. Great video.
I'm a plumber in Northern Canada. Our code is 3" complete through the roof and it doesn't get much colder than here. 3" doesn't choke off. A vent system allows air to flow both in and out and lets methane gas release out.
So what I'm understanding is there is no limit to the amount of bends in the vent pipe? I have a basement bathroom I'm moving the wall over to fit the vanity inside the bathroom and just figured I could install 2 45s on the vent pipe to move it over a couple feet with the wall. Should be fine?
Thanks for the vid. I have venting that’s suspect in my bathroom. I will be reconfiguring it and connecting to the existing venting but in the correct configuration. I’m glad for the explanation regarding air supply and that the extra 20ft run to the vent header that I’m planning on won’t be an issue. Thanks again for the through explanation.
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Do you need plumbing help? I've been a master plumber since age 29. I even draw plumbing plans for your new home or remodel. Go here to set up a phone call: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html Go here if you need me to draw your isometric for your permit: shop.askthebuilder.com/draw-plumbing-plans/
Here in Wisconsin, my 1950 house has 4" cast iron. This is from the street, the floor drains, toilet and soil stack. At the roof it has a 5" expander, because the code requirement was a 4" UNRESTRICTED vent opening in case of ice or frost buildup, (we get down to 15 below at times. We got down to 26 below twice, our all time record low). Bathroom sink and tub/shower were 1 1/2 galivinsed pipe, wet vented. The kitchen sink at the other end of the house has its own roof vent, with a 2" galvanised drain into a 4" , 4 foot cast iron riser with clean out. About 30 years ago, I replaced all the galvanised drains with PVC. Although they looked okay on the outside with no leaks they were clogging because of rust build up.
Plumber telling you he would run 2" vent is not necessarily wrong. He actually knows what he is talking about. 2" plumbing vent handles 24 F.U ( fixture units ). So in your situation, it is perfectly OK, and up to Code, to combine all vents from all plumbing fixtures shown into one common 2" vent.
@@askthebuilder: Dude, you have 158K subscribers and 1.2M views on this video only. You are raking in pretty good cash from your TH-cam content - plus you are a working builder, too. Why ask for more money? You are doing better than average ! Keep it going !
I thought about that too. Yeah there's not a problem running 3 inch just like 6 inch would probably work but 2 inch works perfectly fine. Cost sensitive too.
I'm plumbing an attic room bathroom, and up until a few weeks ago, I knew nothing about plumbing, so I bought a coarse which helped but because of some ambiguities, I have been worrying about every little thing about venting. For various reasons, I thought the vent pipes had to go straight up through the roof. If I did that, we would be smelling sewer gasses forever when on the deck outside the attic room apartment. Now, I'm relaxed about running the toilet vent up the roof between the rafters and out at the peak of the house.
Joe, I offer DIY phone coaching if you need it. I've been a master plumber since 1989. I might be able to save you many thousands of dollars. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I never thought about it this way. I should have. I work with water vac (ejector) systems for chambers to create negative pressures for sterilization. Thanks for opening my mind to this for a more complete understanding of plumbing systems
This is an awesome video that explains the venting in a very easy to understand way. Thank you so much for this video. You are a very good instructor and I am so happy I found this video.
Wow! Thanks for the useful information. I was able to use it when I did the plumbing on my brother's bathroom. I put up a DIY video and felt confident that I had it right thanks to your video.
YW YL as we say in Morse. Keep in mind I might be the only master plumber that offers DIY phone coaching. I do quite a few video calls with DIYrs who want to save tens of thousands of dollars installing their own plumbing.
Just so I asked the right question, as you stated there must be a slope all the way from the top of the vents there must be a slow from the top of the vent stack all the way to the drain. Am I able to group all the vent stacks in my home into one so I have one penetration through the roof is my real question, and likely I would like to penetrate the side wall not the roof so I have no penetrations through the roof, well I just got the answer below about going through the sidewall I will address it with the inspector where it would penetrate no one would ever see yes I know it would look odd Thank you very much for this hoping to do all my own plumbing in the new home I am building in climate zone six in North Carolina the area is actually climate zone five but that's for the whole county I'm at the top of a mountain and I know it is totally different up there so I'm raising the climate zone location. Understanding all this is great.
Marty, if your inspector allows a side-wall termination, that works. But what most discover is rain collects on the horizontal pipe, runs back towards the house, and LEAKS in when the caulk around the pipe fails AS IT ALWAYS DOES. I'VE NEVER IN 50 YEARS HAD A LEAK WITH A PLUMBING VENT THROUGH A ROOF. Watch my video about how to install one so it NEVER LEAKS. What's more, you may need me to draw your plumbing isometric plan. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/draw-plumbing-plans/
@@askthebuilder going through the roof :-) I totally get it coming back into the building. I'm designing building and ICF home insulated concrete form and the roof is also going to be concrete with metal roof on top of that just was trying to eliminate any penetrations through the roof I do have one and that is the wood stove chimney. Contact here, and yes I will look at your links and yes likely will want to draw the isometric
Great plumbing video on the Internet I seen so far great job and if this is the way it’s done why didn’t somebody else explain it this week? Why did they have to make it so complicated?
Hey i'm in plumbing school right now at the 4:56 mark you have used a wye fitting but at school the teacher said to use a sanitary tee for smoother water flow and better air flow......could you tell me why you used that fitting or if a tee would also be ok.....i also really enjoyed your video
I draw riser diagrams so you get ALL of the pipe sizes correct. I also offer phone coaching. I'm working with two DIY homeowners right now who are installing all of the plumbing in their homes. It's the BEST $$$$$ you'll spend on the project. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
@@askthebuilder I can drawer a rough skech of my 1,200 layout ,its small .see if you can get me a price on the spec layout fir me or plumber to do it the right way
Our 65 year old home has one vent that the toilets tie into but none of the 4 sinks or tub are vented at all!! We don't seem to have any issues but I'll keep this in mind if there are strange smells.
Good presentation Tim What would you think of having separate 4" stacks near each cluster of plumbing fixtures, making sure no branch exceeds 4'? More $ for bigger pipes, but less $ to install
+CheekyMonkey888 It's not required. Waste of money. Plumbers decades ago recognized the importance of putting in at least ONE full-sized vent. You don't need one for each group of fixtures. I've had to install special pressure-relief full-sized vents in apartment buildings where bathrooms are stacked on top of one another, but that's different than a house.
Ask the Builder Thank you, I have seen both kinds of installations done, in identical triplexs, at the same time, by the same plumber, and the multiple 4" stack approach came in at triple the material cost but one third of the plumbing time cost. Plumber's time is usually more expensive then the materials, but I agree that for a single storey single family home, or a two storey home where the fixtures are not grouped, your way is best.
+The irregular You Fkd Over But Will Never Own (Please do eat your pork.) Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html The 4-inch pipe goes through the roof and extends up 42 inches and stops. That way it will never get covered with deep snow.
My guess is you've never tried to install that *length* of 1.5-inch pipe in four wall studs within 8 inches of one another. Those studs were unnecessary and provided no structural support. Architects and framers should only use the minimum amount of framing in exterior walls for a host of reasons. In cold NH where this job is located, you want maximum insulation, not wood studs that act as superhighways transferring heat from inside to outside in winter months.
Thanks for establishing equilibrium, and it cannot be said that a vent pipe isn't used for venting air from the system that can otherwise back up without being released. Just try to get a bathroom system inspected and passed without a vent pipe. Frozen pipes happen due to improper insulation, not the vent pipe. The reference, alone suggests the pipe is for venting.. a reference used for releasing air. Otherwise, the vent pipe would be called "air intake". If you're searching for a way to create the effect of the world smelling like one huge sulfur field, (and there are already enough of those around) just wait until those organic gasses build up and cause an explosion. The earth already accommodates such activity in natural vents called Volcanoes and hot springs. We don't need any more created in plumbing systems. 😎
I hate to say this, but you have no clue what you're talking about. Were you absent that day in high school physics when hydraulics and the Venturi effect was discussed? Normally I would delete a comment like yours so other people don't get harmed. But your comment displays such bad advice I've decided to leave it up with my rebuttal to show people they need to be damned careful about what they read on the Interweb.
Thanks very much! You should be here with me now in Bar Harbor as I install all the vent lines this coming week in my daughter's new home! I'll be creating a few short videos to explain fine points of venting. Watch for those videos soo.
@ 4:28 you use a 45 wye. I saw another video that said you should use a wye tee for these connections because the 45 wye can cause flow that will block the vent air and actually siphon water out of the p trap. Have you heard of this. The guy I watched said this wouldn't pass inspection, but he is in Canada. Thoughts?
I answer your question in the video description. Read it please. In real practice, the length of the branch arm extending from the stack to the 90-bend that exits the wall will often prevent syphoning. The longer the arm, the less chance of syphoning. If the small vanity sink basin was filled entirely with water and you pull the plug, the 1 and 1/4-inch tailpiece constricts the water flow to a point that only a small part of the branch arm *might* fill completely with water. By the time the water slug gets to the 45-degree bend, it's flattened out with air above it. Once again, I didn't want to install it this way, but the customer DEMANDED it. Now, if this branch arm was serving a kitchen sink or a large utility sink that could hold 10 or 15 gallons of water and had a 1 and 1/2-inch tailpiece, all bets are off. I WARNED this homeowner that if they filled the sink with water AND there was no drain stopper in the tailpiece that would further restrict the flow, they MIGHT hear a shlurpping sound of syphoning and would have to run water for about three seconds after the sink drained. I've since asked them after they moved in and they've NEVER heard any syphoning sound. That means the branch arm is plenty long.
Thanks for a very helpful video, Tim. In our older home renovation, the plumber installed 2 AAV's where vents would have been difficult. Both valves give off a sewer gas smell. Is this normal or should I look for a better AAV?
+Dave Clark It is NOT NORMAL. This is why I refuse to use AAVs unless it's absolutely necessary. I try to design plumbing fixture placement so you NEVER have to have AAVs. As you can already tell, they're nothing but TROUBLE because they have moving parts.
+Luke Edwards You're welcome Luke! There's a science to venting plumbing. Remember pipe sizes are critical and they always need to SLOPE so water doesn't collect in them.
Every house I ever remodeled had roofing deck rot around the plumbing vent penetrations through the roof. I am about to build a house and I'm going to encapsulate the attic by using spray foam on the other side of the roof covering the rafters about 10 in... This will obscure my ability to inspect my plumbing vent penetrations which could cause further damage if they leak. Do you know if the code will allow me to vent the plumbing out the side of the house in the attic gable if I turn it up with a 90?
If you live in NOLA you can. Otherwise, it's very doubtful. Watch this video I did showing the BEST leak-proof vent flashing and HOW to install it. The wood will never rot: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html
TNX as we say in Morse. You can help support the channel so I make more videos faster by clicking the THANKS text link under the video and flip something into the guitar case.
Why isn’t there a simple access port in the attic for the 4” main vent? I live in WI and my vent had some frost closure. Toilets gurgled multiple nights during a deep freeze over a few days and lost my trap water in them and house smelled like sewer gas in morning. Had to get on roof and open it up. Was thinking a simple 4” tee in the attic with a 2” fitting in it you can unscrew and inspect in the attic would be perfect. Would avoid getting on roof in winter to inspect from above. Or was thinking a drone w/ a camera would also be safer for inspection.
Why not just insulate the exposed vent pipe with 4 inches of foam? We did that with this vent after the video was shot so that the pipe stays warm and the only hoarfrost may happen on the section sticking above the roof. If you want to put a test tee in the attic, go for it.
I’m hoping to move my laundry room into my basement actually right next to my drain stack. The problem is that I’ve been unable to locate my vent pipes except for very near to where it ties in to the main drain stack. Two questions: 1.) Is there a limit to how close to that vent/drain intersection I can tie into? Is there increased risk of getting drainage into my vent line? 2.) Can I tie my drain line into my main drain stack right above the basement floor? There is a clean out right above where that intersection would go in.
Eric, I've been a master plumber since age 29. I discuss these complex issues and what dangers you face should you make a MISTAKE on the phone. The call is FREE if you're not pleased with my advice. Here's how to make it happen: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html
very helpful, thank you. You mentioned the main bathroom toilet connects in the basement, under the "A" of the subfloor where you drew the lines- does that toilet have it's own vent or is the 3" connection the vent? Also, please explain why the vanity vent branch arm is a 45 while the kitchen sink is a 90 degree T. Thank you.
The 3-inch full-size vent is the vent for the toilet. You can wet-vent the toilet with the vanity branch arm so long as the stack/vent coming from the 3-inch wye under the floor remains 3 inches until the 3 x 1 1/2 tee. The wye you see for the vanity branch arm is *AGAINST CODE. It creates a shallow illegal S trap. The homeowner INSISTED I install it* there to facilitate future snaking. It's common for most vanity branch arms to get clogged with gunk from women's makeup. Rookies using a snake can drill through the side of the tee. The wye connection to the stack is no different than common wyes used in vertical stacks all over the system. In the basement there's a clean out just below the kitchen tee. If there's a future clog at the tee, it can be attacked easier from below rather than go through the branch arm above.
WRONG. Sanitary tees upside down in VENT LINES are code-approved in the USA. As I say in the video, just make sure the horizontal vent lines have slope so the condensate drains to the vertical stacks.
Normal fittings on vents are fine as long as it's 6 inches ABOVE the flood rim of that particular fixture. In the attic it's obvious that its above every fixture in the house
Simple. Move it. If you need step-by-step instructions to ensure it works PERFECTLY, you can get me on the phone. I'll save you at least $500. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I have seen plumbing beneath kitchen and bathroom vanity sinks that have tee's in them and out of that t- fitting it appears to be a small vent which is really a check valve that can let air in but not let water out. Have you ever seen venting done locally like this? Is this done to help facilitate vent flow?
You're talking about AAVs. They're mechanical vents with *moving parts*. Because of this at some point the moving parts fail to move and you have sewer gas in the house. Watch my Loop Vent video or purchase my Sewer Gas Ebook: shop.askthebuilder.com/sewer-gas-smell/
You're welcome. If my video helped save you time and money, perhaps you can click the *THANKS* text link under the video and make a donation so I can make more videos faster.
Do you know if a candy cane (goose neck) is okay to install on the vent stack if you live in a cold climate like upper New York or Vermont? I'm getting conflicting answers, one plumber said that it might freeze up...another plumber said that they all kind of freeze up, another plumber said that it will stop the flow of my toilets and sinks. Thank you!
I find your video on a website about venting and how to do it. Website says that under no condition should a 90 be used and it has your video there to show you how to do it. I watch your video and there’s 90’s everywhere! So I’m assuming 90’s are ok???
90s are perfectly legal in venting systems and even in drainage pipes. Remember, vent pipes just move air, not liquids and solids. Never use a 90 in a buried slab to change direction horizontally. Use 45-degree fittings to change directions in slabs and crawlspaces for DRAINAGE lines. You can use a sweep, or long-radius, 90 at the base of a stack under a slab.
Hello -- for a new home build with a basement living area with bathroom and a snack area with a bar sink, and having a poured concrete floor, we would like to have an integral 2" floor drain trap with a back up device at the lowest point in a recessed mechanical room. In searching for information about venting this drain, we believe that it will not need to be vented to a vertical stack as it is 2" piping, and thus has enough free air space to not require a direct vent? Are we interpreting our findings correctly? Secondly, should we be concerned about the floor drain "drying" out and allowing sewer gas and odors to come from the septic tank? Thanks in advance for the answer.
I do phone consulting for situations like this. I'm an expert in the topic. Go here to set up the call: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I wish you the best of luck. The Interweb is littered with lots of false information. Quick question: Do you use the Internet to get free medical or legal advice? I'm a professional just as they are.
Don’t vent pipes also allow sewer gases to escape to the roof? If so, the function is bidirectional. Air travels down to maintain proper air pressure and up to move harmful gases to the roof?
Sewer gas can be pulled out of roof vent pipes by the Venturi effect as wind blows across the top of the pipe. But don't think that sewer gas floats on its own out of a vent pipe like smoke from a chimney or engine exhaust from a car/truck tailpipe. The primary purpose of vent pipes is as I talk about. They replace the air pushed DOWN the drainage system by flowing and rushing water. It's no different than air in an elevator shaft in skyscrapers.
Did the homeowner also designate where they wanted the roof penetration? Odd to have it all the way at one end of the roof, instead of centralized for shorter run to the extremities.
Yes. They wanted the plumbing vent on a side roof not visible when you pull up the drive or walk to the front door. Some people don't like to see the plumbing vents poking out of roofs.
13:30 Must allow drainage for condensation & RAIN... yay!!! ... though i would typically not see a 50 ft run just a second roof penetration, Ive not used 1-1/2 for anything in the last ten years ... .
The homeowner INSISTED on just one roof penetration. I agree, a second vent pipe should have been put in although it would have ended up just above the front door. :-(
Please watch the video once more - just the first five minutes. Then engage your God-given critical-thinking skills and let us know what you think. This will be a great exercise for you. After you do that, read this true story that happened to ME 52 years ago: www.askthebuilder.com/ken-caster-historical-geology-professor/
Just wondering if you could divert the vent pipe out below either side of the ridge line of the roof instead of through the roof, I am thinking about zero penetration when I re-roof with metal roof but I read some where that vent needs to be 12" above the roof.
A local inspector may allow you to vent out a sidewall, but in all cases it needs to extend up above the bottom edge of the roof. The pipe coming out of the side of the house is going to look like hell. It's EASY to create leak-proof penetrations in most metal roofs. If your metal roof is a standing-seam one, I have a video showing exactly how to put in the flashing so you NEVER HAVE a leak. I also offer phone coaching: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
It is totally acceptable to vent out a sidewall instead of penetrating the roof. I’d check your local code, but my area allows it as long as you don’t terminate the vent under an overhang with a soffit vent. You only have to go 12” above the roof line when penetrating through the roof. And if you install something like solar panels that cover the vent pipe and protect it from snow and wind then it doesn’t even have to extend 12” from the roof.
Exactly. Solar roofing is making it much more common to get away from putting all of these hidious looking pipes and vents out through the roof. Pipes and vents sticking out through the roof look like hell to begin with, in my opinion. I just recently rerouted my air vents to the side of the house and utilized the vent at the peak of the roof and I am very happy with this setup and it works perfectly and looks much better. This allowed for a straight shot across the roof for solar shingles. Aesthetically, this is a tremendous Improvement.
Why is the toilet flange installed directly onto the subfloor? Or is it actually just dry fitted in the video so it can later be installed on top of the finished floor?
Just answered my own question. Must be away from ridge due to ridge venting needing to be separated from smelly, possibly explosive vent gases. th-cam.com/video/2XhOkzKFai8/w-d-xo.html
Tim, I don't believe you have an understanding of how flashings work. I suggest you watch this video of mine and then you'll see it makes little difference how much water flows down the roof across it: www.askthebuilder.com/plumbing-vent-flashing-video/
Is there a fix for the high wind syphoning the p trap? I've noticed it for a while in fall through winter and early spring months when wind are higher and the leaves are off the trees. Thanks
@@askthebuilder every day I use all of it. It's really only the bathtub and it is pretty much when the trees can't obstruct the wind. There are also other videos showing yes wind can siphon them. I only have one bathroom. Several people use the shower every day. No leaks in the basement. Outside of trap is bone dry. House was built in 1890. Plumbing was updated in the 80s by a previous owner.
All the vents for each fixture tied back into that 4-inch vent. If you want to save on pipe, you can have multiple vent stacks pop out through the roof. This owner only wanted one vent through the roof.
Yes we did. There is simply too much framing going on in this tight space and it's overbuilt. The added lumber reduces the amount of insulation in the wall.
Maybe not permissible by code in your area, but curious, wouldn't it of been much easier just to do a combination waste/vent at the kitchen sink? By the way, great job, always enjoy looking at others work. It's like art! Too bad great work is always covered up. Lol
Hello , could you use an air admittance valve on a kitchen island that has a sink and has no other way of venting , or would you have a different suggestion .
You can do whatever you want. I'd never use an AAV. They always fail. They have moving parts. Go watch my loop vent video. or just go here to discover exactly how to do it and WHY it works: shop.askthebuilder.com/how-to-make-a-plumbing-loop-vent/
Hi, just wondering if it's okay to put a goose neck on top of the vent stack on the roof so to protect animals, debris and rain from coming into the vent?
There's nothing wrong with a candy cane on top of a vent pipe. At the last house I built for my family, huge trees showered the roof with seed pods, tiny twigs, blossoms in the spring, etc. So once a year I got up on the roof with a garden hose and stuck it in the vertical pipe and let water run for 5 minutes to flush out the vent pipe. It was easy to get up on that roof and it was relatively low-slope and safe. Not all vent pipes are easy to service like mine.
Easy. It's all about air vs water. I could type for quite some time. If you're willing to invest in some education, I can teach you all about when you use what. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
cliffordwda green - Can you call out the section of the IPC where it says this? Here's a copy of the 2015 code: codes.iccsafe.org/public/document/code/550/9795976
For venting specifically not. The 2015 IRC limits the maximum distance of fixture trap from vents and fixture unit loads on vent sizes. For sump vents there are some distance limitations based on vent size but as far as elbows are concerned no nothing nothing for venting. Keep in mind air flows better than water and limitations on bends, elbows, etc is for the purpose of maintaining water pressure.
Is there a reason that the 4" part of that intake pipe through the roof isn't lined with heat tape and permanently provided power so that their is not a chance of that pipe freezing in cold climates?!
Fantastic question! Google this: heat tape fire danger Second, engage your critical-thinking skills and ponder the tens of thousands of New England houses that have cast-iron 4-inch vent stacks installed and in service for over 140 years. Do you think if they froze up constantly that the plumbers would continue to install them since the 1880s?
When your talking about the h fitting in the bathroom connecting the water closet and lav is the a 3x3 wye with a reducing coupling for the 2" lav brach?
+59seank Hah! I've been waiting in the weeds for this comment. It's a GREAT question. I believe some will take the shortcut and go down the crooked pathway of AAVs. Here's what I don't like about them. They're mechanical. They have moving parts. They will ALL FAIL at some point. When that happens, can you count on the homeowner to recognize the problem? Vents like you see in this video will never fail. What's more, when you put in a full-size 3-inch or larger vent like you see in this video, you can easily flush it out if you want. A tennis ball will pass down it with ease, and Mother Nature's physics will work flawlessly for all time. Plumbers using the *best* practices like this have done venting with no issues since the late 1800's. This methodology is time tested and you never have to worry about it. Proceed down the AAV pathway at your own risk. As for poking holes in roofs, if you do it right and use the RIGHT flashing, you'll never have a leak. WATCH this video to see how it's done: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html
+Ask the Builder Have you ever had to flush out a roof vent? What typically blocks a plumbing roof vent? What are the symptoms of a blocked vent? Is there a more attractive alternative to the ubiquitous white PVC pipe sticking through the roof?
+59seank Yes. I've flushed out large 4-inch CAST IRON vents in older homes that had 90-degree bends in them just as you see in this video. The blockages were caused by decades of rust scale that dropped down from the sides of the cast iron. Water sucked from fixture traps. Paint the pipe. That's what I did at my home and on many jobs and you barely notice them. Work with a CREATIVE plumber like me and put the vent pipes on parts of the roof not readily visible from the street or other parts of the lot. That's where most builders and plumbers fall down. They take the easy way out. Good luck on your projects. I'll not be able to answer any more of your questions because I have so much to do.
Air is supposed to come down vent pipes to the drain lines. If the plumbing system is not installed correctly and you have syphoning of water from the tub drain, that's NOT okay. Sounds like you should get on the phone with me: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I have one more question if you don’t mind: There will be two washrooms one on the first floor and the second directly above. I want to have one vent through the roof. Do I connect the vents from the first floor fixtures a few feet above the fixtures or do these vents have to connect to the vertical vent above the second floor fixtures? Thanks again.
About putting the tees upside down ? Wouldn't you want to not do this in the event that water somehow backs up into a vent pipe or condensation now the water is stuck at that tee and can't drain out ? Air is air and flows better than water I would assume is there really a need for an upside down t to help the direction of air ?
I'm happy to explain all of this over the phone. Far too much to type. I've been a master plumber since 1981. Invest in your education: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
Do you leave the stub part that comes out of the wall unglued until the drywall gets installed or do you glue it and then trim the stub later when the vanity sink p-trap is being installed to the vanity sink? Do you prefer to glue the p-trap or use a compression fitting so that the p-trap can be replaced more easily? I'm working on a bathroom in a 47 year old single story house. I replaced the 1-1/2 vent pipe cause i had to rebuild the framing on a load bearing wall. I'm also wondering if i should upgrade the drain to a 2-inch drain instead of using the 1-1/2 drain for the vanity. The bathroom has a 1-1/2 vent pipe for the vanity and a 2-inch vent pipe for the toilet and a 2-inch vent pipe for a tub/shower.
Can a vent pipe be repaired ?, i had a person put a exhaust fan in my bathroom and made a hole on my vent pipe to put the exhaust duck in there instead of going through the roof , i was really upset that he did that ....
Poorly formed question but I'll answer it. You can do ANYTHING you want. You might have asked: Is it a good idea to put a plumbing vent out through a soffit? HELL NO! Go watch my Plumbing Vent Pipe Flashing video where I show how to install the BEST flashing known to man or woman - one that will never leak.
Because the owner of the house only wanted one. Putting in two more would have been the smart thing to do. One at the kitchen and one by that bathroom near the garage. But I couldn't talk him into it.
Because the homeowner INSISTED on using the TY fitting. I informed him it was against code creating an illegal S trap. The town the house was built in has NO inspections of any type. No building inspection, no electrical inspection, no PLUMBING inspection so I knew I'd not have to cut out the fitting. As of this date all these years later, the trap has NEVER been suctioned dry by the adjacent toilet. Also, filling up the sink to the brim and pulling the stopper doesn't create enough siphoning action to suck the trap dry. You should experiment with this by building your own crude setup. It's all about how high the S trap is and how much water is flowing out of the vessel.
@@askthebuilder Now there is more questions. lol Why did the homeowner insist on using the wye? I gotta hear why they know better than the plumbing code.
1. It was *HIS* house - the UPC code officials were not making the mortgage payments. He felt that the down angle of the wye would prevent hair, cosmetic goo, toothpaste, etc. from hanging up on the lip of the sanitary tee. 2. Don't always assume the code is correct. Example: I once piped a bathroom with 1/2-inch-diameter PVC tubing temporarily to see if that small pipe would admit enough air when all fixtures drained at once. It worked perfectly. Many forget that the air pressure at or near sea level is 14.2 PSI. Have you ever seen a rubber test plug shoot across the room from a sanitary 1.5-inch tee at just 5 PSI? I have. Yes, I understand they want bigger vent pipes to prevent long-term clogs, etc.
Yes you can. It's a waste of material. I once did an experiment and vented an entire bathroom with 1/2-inch copper tubing. It worked perfectly draining all the fixtures at once with no syphoning. Many forget what the PSI is of the air surrounding us. It's 14.1 pounds per square inch pushing down the vent pipes for goodness sake. This is why a *tiny pinprick hole* is all you need on a large plastic water jug to allow water to flow out the spigot unrestricted.
No. Why is it needed??? A huge waste of time and lumber. Do you put strapping on walls? Why not??????? Does the USG Gypsum Construction Handbook require strapping?
Can you give me the time stamps in the video where you feel condensate is traveling UP? All the vent lines in this video are sloped so the condensate runs to a vertical stack and then down into the building drain. It's probably a very good idea for you to bone up on the UPC.
@@askthebuilder I’m confused, how is the 50 to 60’ horizontal section ok then that branches off from the 3” section you show? Sorry I’ve been sifting through vent code and just when I think I get it, I see an example that’s to code but I can’t seem to make sense of haha
@@mccarseat I think the 42” distance is from the vanity or shower drain before the vent ties in. I don’t know if there is a regulation for horizontal pipe up in the attic.
There are pros and cons. The pro is less piping. The big con of a second vent is there is another hole in your roof that you need to make sure there is proper flashing around. Considering how cheap PVC is, and how many leaky roofs I have to deal with, I know which option I would choose.
Another TH-camr talked about minimizing roof leaks. It's not an issue at all if you put in the RIGHT flashing and install it correctly. The crappy Oatey ones fail. WATCH this video of mine to see the BEST plumbing vent flashing out there and how EASY it is to weave it into the shingles for NO LEAKS EVER: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html
Didn't see a vent for the toilet. If you're using that 3" in that 2"×6" wall as your water closet vent, you've already failed inspection in Kentucky. You've got a wet vent, and a flat vent. Niether will pass inspection here. Each fixture needs an individual vent that needs to be washed. I keep seeing these damn videos posted all over youtube giving irrelevant info to people in my state. These how too's and explanation videos can get spmeone in real trouble here in Kentucky. We're strict here. Depending in the severity of the infraction you could get fined $500.00 or face 1-5 years in jail. Call a plumber in my state if you need a house roughed in. Don't attempt it yourself. Our code can be complicated, but it's that way for a REASON.
The UPC has had that wet vent setup for years. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it from a best practices standpoint. Have you ever questioned WHY in KY it's not allowed? Can those who disallow it give you examples of how the toilet won't function (it does perfectly) or that it can't get enough air if the vanity bowl full of water is draining (the toilet gets plenty of air because the 1.5-inch pipe can't possibly fill the short vertical 3-inch stack with water)? In other words, have you engaged your God-given critical-thinking skills to CHALLENGE what is being enforced? You should because there are hundreds of THOUSANDS of these wet vents all over the USA that work perfectly fine. And share with us how your DRY vents in KY get washed. Anything above a sanitary tee is a vent and it's dry except for condensation. Everything BELOW a sanitary tee is a stack, not a vent. We await your answers. Better yet, use your TH-cam channel for its intended purpose. Record a video showing us all the KY craziness and back it up with science not speculation. Once you upload the video to your channel, come back and share the URL here.
It would seem to me that when you pull the drain plug that the (replacement air) would come from the drain itself, not needing a vent pipe for every water fixtures (sinks, showers, washing machine). They are not like toilets where water fills up right away blocking air to follow the waste, therefore a vent pipe makes sense to me, and it allows the bad smell to evacuate outside. But sinks, showers etc.. don't have that issue. Air would be replaced through the drain itself
The primary collector vent line runs down the center of the house and all the individual vents connect to it. How much simpler could it get? This is a great opportunity for you to use your channel. Why not create a video of your own showing how to simplify the layout. Upload it and then come back here and paste in the URL to your video so we can see the fruits of your labor.
This is a great example of what happens to 99.9% of the population. They don't do their research *before* the job happens. As Queen Cersei says to Lord Stark in Game of Thrones, "Such a sad mistake."
The TY fitting you see at the beginning of this video was specified by the homeowner. This NH town had NO plumbing inspections. An inspector would have FAILED the installation as we all know.
Why would anyone specify this? What was their reasoning for doing it 'wrong'?
Simple. The homeowner felt that a snake would have a better chance of clearing a clog at the end of the branch arm if it was pointed down instead of drilling a hole into the side of the stack. It's a valid concern. The sink functions properly. Even when you fill it with water and pull the plug, the last slug of water doesn't syphon the trap.
@@askthebuilder Thanks for the reply and the great video! Definitely understand the concern, I've had snakes try and go the wrong way in san-tees before.
@@askthebuilderhello, can you please pinpoint the timeframe of the TY that is in reference so that I can further understand the scenario. Much appreciated. Thank you. Great video.
I'm a plumber in Northern Canada. Our code is 3" complete through the roof and it doesn't get much colder than here. 3" doesn't choke off. A vent system allows air to flow both in and out and lets methane gas release out.
Thanks, I was wondering about that as I only have 3" in Northern Ontario
So what I'm understanding is there is no limit to the amount of bends in the vent pipe? I have a basement bathroom I'm moving the wall over to fit the vanity inside the bathroom and just figured I could install 2 45s on the vent pipe to move it over a couple feet with the wall. Should be fine?
Thanks for the vid. I have venting that’s suspect in my bathroom. I will be reconfiguring it and connecting to the existing venting but in the correct configuration. I’m glad for the explanation regarding air supply and that the extra 20ft run to the vent header that I’m planning on won’t be an issue. Thanks again for the through explanation.
You're welcome. You can repay the knowledge you received by clicking the *Thanks* text link under the video and step up to support my channel.
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Do you need plumbing help? I've been a master plumber since age 29. I even draw plumbing plans for your new home or remodel. Go here to set up a phone call: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html Go here if you need me to draw your isometric for your permit: shop.askthebuilder.com/draw-plumbing-plans/
Can you help me with a trap primer connection to a floor drain tnks
Here in Wisconsin, my 1950 house has 4" cast iron. This is from the street, the floor drains, toilet and soil stack. At the roof it has a 5" expander, because the code requirement was a 4" UNRESTRICTED vent opening in case of ice or frost buildup, (we get down to 15 below at times. We got down to 26 below twice, our all time record low). Bathroom sink and tub/shower were 1 1/2 galivinsed pipe, wet vented. The kitchen sink at the other end of the house has its own roof vent, with a 2" galvanised drain into a 4" , 4 foot cast iron riser with clean out. About 30 years ago, I replaced all the galvanised drains with PVC. Although they looked okay on the outside with no leaks they were clogging because of rust build up.
Plumber telling you he would run 2" vent is not necessarily wrong. He actually knows what he is talking about. 2" plumbing vent handles 24 F.U ( fixture units ). So in your situation, it is perfectly OK, and up to Code, to combine all vents from all plumbing fixtures shown into one common 2" vent.
Glad you like my videos. If one or more helped save you time and $$$, check out the *THANKS* text link under all my videos.
@@askthebuilder: Dude, you have 158K subscribers and 1.2M views on this video only. You are raking in pretty good cash from your TH-cam content - plus you are a working builder, too. Why ask for more money? You are doing better than average ! Keep it going !
Time is money , 😸✌️🙏💪🤔
I thought about that too. Yeah there's not a problem running 3 inch just like 6 inch would probably work but 2 inch works perfectly fine. Cost sensitive too.
I'm plumbing an attic room bathroom, and up until a few weeks ago, I knew nothing about plumbing, so I bought a coarse which helped but because of some ambiguities, I have been worrying about every little thing about venting. For various reasons, I thought the vent pipes had to go straight up through the roof. If I did that, we would be smelling sewer gasses forever when on the deck outside the attic room apartment. Now, I'm relaxed about running the toilet vent up the roof between the rafters and out at the peak of the house.
Joe, I offer DIY phone coaching if you need it. I've been a master plumber since 1989. I might be able to save you many thousands of dollars. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I never thought about it this way.
I should have.
I work with water vac (ejector) systems for chambers to create negative pressures for sterilization.
Thanks for opening my mind to this for a more complete understanding of
plumbing systems
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
This is an awesome video that explains the venting in a very easy to understand way. Thank you so much for this video. You are a very good instructor and I am so happy I found this video.
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
Wow! Thanks for the useful information. I was able to use it when I did the plumbing on my brother's bathroom. I put up a DIY video and felt confident that I had it right thanks to your video.
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
Very good video! Explains the pipe in my attic, which spans across in a horizontal manner. Thank you, learning from you.
YW YL as we say in Morse. Keep in mind I might be the only master plumber that offers DIY phone coaching. I do quite a few video calls with DIYrs who want to save tens of thousands of dollars installing their own plumbing.
Just so I asked the right question, as you stated there must be a slope all the way from the top of the vents there must be a slow from the top of the vent stack all the way to the drain. Am I able to group all the vent stacks in my home into one so I have one penetration through the roof is my real question, and likely I would like to penetrate the side wall not the roof so I have no penetrations through the roof, well I just got the answer below about going through the sidewall I will address it with the inspector where it would penetrate no one would ever see yes I know it would look odd
Thank you very much for this hoping to do all my own plumbing in the new home I am building in climate zone six in North Carolina the area is actually climate zone five but that's for the whole county I'm at the top of a mountain and I know it is totally different up there so I'm raising the climate zone location. Understanding all this is great.
Marty, if your inspector allows a side-wall termination, that works. But what most discover is rain collects on the horizontal pipe, runs back towards the house, and LEAKS in when the caulk around the pipe fails AS IT ALWAYS DOES. I'VE NEVER IN 50 YEARS HAD A LEAK WITH A PLUMBING VENT THROUGH A ROOF. Watch my video about how to install one so it NEVER LEAKS. What's more, you may need me to draw your plumbing isometric plan. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/draw-plumbing-plans/
@@askthebuilder going through the roof :-) I totally get it coming back into the building. I'm designing building and ICF home insulated concrete form and the roof is also going to be concrete with metal roof on top of that just was trying to eliminate any penetrations through the roof I do have one and that is the wood stove chimney. Contact here, and yes I will look at your links and yes likely will want to draw the isometric
Great plumbing video on the Internet I seen so far great job and if this is the way it’s done why didn’t somebody else explain it this week? Why did they have to make it so complicated?
It's not complicated. The vent system is just the drain system in reverse.
Hey i'm in plumbing school right now at the 4:56 mark you have used a wye fitting but at school the teacher said to use a sanitary tee for smoother water flow and better air flow......could you tell me why you used that fitting or if a tee would also be ok.....i also really enjoyed your video
Your plumbing teacher is RIGHT. What you failed to do is read the video description where I tell you WHY that wye is in place.
Great explanation!! Im at the stage of rough plumbing soon
I draw riser diagrams so you get ALL of the pipe sizes correct. I also offer phone coaching. I'm working with two DIY homeowners right now who are installing all of the plumbing in their homes. It's the BEST $$$$$ you'll spend on the project. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
@@askthebuilder
I can drawer a rough skech of my 1,200 layout ,its small .see if you can get me a price on the spec layout fir me or plumber to do it the right way
Veronica, I'm happy to draw your riser diagram. Call me for details: 603-470-0508
Our 65 year old home has one vent that the toilets tie into but none of the 4 sinks or tub are vented at all!! We don't seem to have any issues but I'll keep this in mind if there are strange smells.
How do you know the other fixtures have no vents? Do you possess x-ray vision as does Superman allowing you to look inside walls and ceilings?
@@askthebuilder lol
It's amazing how complex home building has become
Plumbers have been installing vent pipes like this for over 125 years. It's not complex, it's not new technology.
@@askthebuilder I had a feeling you'd say that!! 😉
Good presentation Tim
What would you think of having separate 4" stacks near each cluster of plumbing fixtures, making sure no branch exceeds 4'?
More $ for bigger pipes, but less $ to install
+CheekyMonkey888 It's not required. Waste of money. Plumbers decades ago recognized the importance of putting in at least ONE full-sized vent. You don't need one for each group of fixtures. I've had to install special pressure-relief full-sized vents in apartment buildings where bathrooms are stacked on top of one another, but that's different than a house.
Ask the Builder Thank you, I have seen both kinds of installations done, in identical triplexs, at the same time, by the same plumber, and the multiple 4" stack approach came in at triple the material cost but one third of the plumbing time cost. Plumber's time is usually more expensive then the materials, but I agree that for a single storey single family home, or a two storey home where the fixtures are not grouped, your way is best.
+The irregular You Fkd Over But Will Never Own (Please do eat your pork.) Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html The 4-inch pipe goes through the roof and extends up 42 inches and stops. That way it will never get covered with deep snow.
Nice neat installation. Except, at 9:10 the studs were cut apart. Why, as the adjacent studs were drilled for your piping?
My guess is you've never tried to install that *length* of 1.5-inch pipe in four wall studs within 8 inches of one another. Those studs were unnecessary and provided no structural support. Architects and framers should only use the minimum amount of framing in exterior walls for a host of reasons. In cold NH where this job is located, you want maximum insulation, not wood studs that act as superhighways transferring heat from inside to outside in winter months.
Thanks for establishing equilibrium, and it cannot be said that a vent pipe isn't used for venting air from the system that can otherwise back up without being released. Just try to get a bathroom system inspected and passed without a vent pipe. Frozen pipes happen due to improper insulation, not the vent pipe. The reference, alone suggests the pipe is for venting.. a reference used for releasing air. Otherwise, the vent pipe would be called "air intake". If you're searching for a way to create the effect of the world smelling like one huge sulfur field, (and there are already enough of those around) just wait until those organic gasses build up and cause an explosion. The earth already accommodates such activity in natural vents called Volcanoes and hot springs. We don't need any more created in plumbing systems. 😎
I hate to say this, but you have no clue what you're talking about. Were you absent that day in high school physics when hydraulics and the Venturi effect was discussed? Normally I would delete a comment like yours so other people don't get harmed. But your comment displays such bad advice I've decided to leave it up with my rebuttal to show people they need to be damned careful about what they read on the Interweb.
Great video Great teacher and I bet a Great Contractor
TNX for your kind words.
Excellent video. Rarely do I subscribe based off one video... this one nailed it.
Thanks very much! You should be here with me now in Bar Harbor as I install all the vent lines this coming week in my daughter's new home! I'll be creating a few short videos to explain fine points of venting. Watch for those videos soo.
@ 4:28 you use a 45 wye. I saw another video that said you should use a wye tee for these connections because the 45 wye can cause flow that will block the vent air and actually siphon water out of the p trap. Have you heard of this. The guy I watched said this wouldn't pass inspection, but he is in Canada. Thoughts?
OK, I see @8:13 you're using the tee for the kitchen sink. Curious as to why you're using two different wyes.
I answer your question in the video description. Read it please. In real practice, the length of the branch arm extending from the stack to the 90-bend that exits the wall will often prevent syphoning. The longer the arm, the less chance of syphoning. If the small vanity sink basin was filled entirely with water and you pull the plug, the 1 and 1/4-inch tailpiece constricts the water flow to a point that only a small part of the branch arm *might* fill completely with water. By the time the water slug gets to the 45-degree bend, it's flattened out with air above it. Once again, I didn't want to install it this way, but the customer DEMANDED it.
Now, if this branch arm was serving a kitchen sink or a large utility sink that could hold 10 or 15 gallons of water and had a 1 and 1/2-inch tailpiece, all bets are off. I WARNED this homeowner that if they filled the sink with water AND there was no drain stopper in the tailpiece that would further restrict the flow, they MIGHT hear a shlurpping sound of syphoning and would have to run water for about three seconds after the sink drained. I've since asked them after they moved in and they've NEVER heard any syphoning sound. That means the branch arm is plenty long.
Once again, read the entire video description.
@@askthebuilder Got it, thanks! Ever since YT started hiding the video description, I rarely read them. Sorry about that.
Thanks for a very helpful video, Tim. In our older home renovation, the plumber installed 2 AAV's where vents would have been difficult. Both valves give off a sewer gas smell. Is this normal or should I look for a better AAV?
+Dave Clark It is NOT NORMAL. This is why I refuse to use AAVs unless it's absolutely necessary. I try to design plumbing fixture placement so you NEVER have to have AAVs. As you can already tell, they're nothing but TROUBLE because they have moving parts.
Curious why you ran the vent pipe 60' horizontal instead of just putting in a second roof vent exit down at the other end.
I answered that in a previous comment. The homeowner only wanted ONE roof penetration.
syphonic action is what will happen with no vent. good vid lad.
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
This is a great, informative video but I wish we could have gotten a look at a toilet vent.
The 3-inch pipe coming up from the floor in the first minutes of the video is the vent for the toilet. There's a wye fitting under the subfloor.
this is awsome it realy taught me alot . thank you tim
+Luke Edwards You're welcome Luke! There's a science to venting plumbing. Remember pipe sizes are critical and they always need to SLOPE so water doesn't collect in them.
Very helpful. Many thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Consider supporting the channel by clicking the *Thanks* link under the video.
very analytic explanation, nice video
Glad you liked it! TH-cam allows you to show your gratitude with the *THANKS* text link under the video. Check it out!
Every house I ever remodeled had roofing deck rot around the plumbing vent penetrations through the roof.
I am about to build a house and I'm going to encapsulate the attic by using spray foam on the other side of the roof covering the rafters about 10 in... This will obscure my ability to inspect my plumbing vent penetrations which could cause further damage if they leak.
Do you know if the code will allow me to vent the plumbing out the side of the house in the attic gable if I turn it up with a 90?
If you live in NOLA you can. Otherwise, it's very doubtful. Watch this video I did showing the BEST leak-proof vent flashing and HOW to install it. The wood will never rot: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html
Great job buddy looks awesome!!
TNX as we say in Morse. You can help support the channel so I make more videos faster by clicking the THANKS text link under the video and flip something into the guitar case.
Why isn’t there a simple access port in the attic for the 4” main vent? I live in WI and my vent had some frost closure. Toilets gurgled multiple nights during a deep freeze over a few days and lost my trap water in them and house smelled like sewer gas in morning.
Had to get on roof and open it up. Was thinking a simple 4” tee in the attic with a 2” fitting in it you can unscrew and inspect in the attic would be perfect. Would avoid getting on roof in winter to inspect from above. Or was thinking a drone w/ a camera would also be safer for inspection.
Why not just insulate the exposed vent pipe with 4 inches of foam? We did that with this vent after the video was shot so that the pipe stays warm and the only hoarfrost may happen on the section sticking above the roof. If you want to put a test tee in the attic, go for it.
I’m hoping to move my laundry room into my basement actually right next to my drain stack. The problem is that I’ve been unable to locate my vent pipes except for very near to where it ties in to the main drain stack. Two questions:
1.) Is there a limit to how close to that vent/drain intersection I can tie into? Is there increased risk of getting drainage into my vent line?
2.) Can I tie my drain line into my main drain stack right above the basement floor? There is a clean out right above where that intersection would go in.
Eric, I've been a master plumber since age 29. I discuss these complex issues and what dangers you face should you make a MISTAKE on the phone. The call is FREE if you're not pleased with my advice. Here's how to make it happen: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html
very helpful, thank you. You mentioned the main bathroom toilet connects in the basement, under the "A" of the subfloor where you drew the lines- does that toilet have it's own vent or is the 3" connection the vent? Also, please explain why the vanity vent branch arm is a 45 while the kitchen sink is a 90 degree T. Thank you.
The 3-inch full-size vent is the vent for the toilet. You can wet-vent the toilet with the vanity branch arm so long as the stack/vent coming from the 3-inch wye under the floor remains 3 inches until the 3 x 1 1/2 tee. The wye you see for the vanity branch arm is *AGAINST CODE. It creates a shallow illegal S trap. The homeowner INSISTED I install it* there to facilitate future snaking. It's common for most vanity branch arms to get clogged with gunk from women's makeup. Rookies using a snake can drill through the side of the tee. The wye connection to the stack is no different than common wyes used in vertical stacks all over the system. In the basement there's a clean out just below the kitchen tee. If there's a future clog at the tee, it can be attacked easier from below rather than go through the branch arm above.
Thank you for you quick and helpful reply.
Do basement bathrooms need to be vented also?
All plumbing drain pipes need to be vented.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Thanks for watching. If you want to reciprocate, look below the video for the THANKS text link. Click it and see what you can do to return the favor.
Very informative, thanks!
Consider clicking the *Thanks* text link under the video to help support the channel.
for some reason. I find house frames with floating pvc pipes awesome
why do they look so cool ? lol it must be because Super Mario he loves to travel in those.
I heard that music coming out from the pipes one day and wondered what it was! th-cam.com/video/NTa6Xbzfq1U/w-d-xo.html
Up in the attic. I don’t believe you can have two horizontal pipes connected to a Santee. You have to use a y/combo. Right?
WRONG. Sanitary tees upside down in VENT LINES are code-approved in the USA. As I say in the video, just make sure the horizontal vent lines have slope so the condensate drains to the vertical stacks.
Normal fittings on vents are fine as long as it's 6 inches ABOVE the flood rim of that particular fixture. In the attic it's obvious that its above every fixture in the house
When moving an existing vent pipe from one side roof to the other side, which is needed for a solar panel install, what's your advice?
Simple. Move it. If you need step-by-step instructions to ensure it works PERFECTLY, you can get me on the phone. I'll save you at least $500. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I have seen plumbing beneath kitchen and bathroom vanity sinks that have tee's in them and out of that t- fitting it appears to be a small vent which is really a check valve that can let air in but not let water out. Have you ever seen venting done locally like this? Is this done to help facilitate vent flow?
You're talking about AAVs. They're mechanical vents with *moving parts*. Because of this at some point the moving parts fail to move and you have sewer gas in the house. Watch my Loop Vent video or purchase my Sewer Gas Ebook: shop.askthebuilder.com/sewer-gas-smell/
He was super cool thank you so much. You are the best best.
My pvc vent pipes are sweating. Leaked through and now have ceiling damage in a room. Do you have any advice to prevent this?
Yes I can help you. It requires a phone conversation for a host of reasons: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
Good Explanation thankyou God blessing you
You're welcome. If my video helped save you time and money, perhaps you can click the *THANKS* text link under the video and make a donation so I can make more videos faster.
Do you know if a candy cane (goose neck) is okay to install on the vent stack if you live in a cold climate like upper New York or Vermont? I'm getting conflicting answers, one plumber said that it might freeze up...another plumber said that they all kind of freeze up, another plumber said that it will stop the flow of my toilets and sinks. Thank you!
You can do it. The pipe and bends MUST BE 4-inches to prevent hoarfrost from choking off the flow of air. Just do what I did in the video.
good teacher!
I find your video on a website about venting and how to do it. Website says that under no condition should a 90 be used and it has your video there to show you how to do it. I watch your video and there’s 90’s everywhere! So I’m assuming 90’s are ok???
90s are perfectly legal in venting systems and even in drainage pipes. Remember, vent pipes just move air, not liquids and solids. Never use a 90 in a buried slab to change direction horizontally. Use 45-degree fittings to change directions in slabs and crawlspaces for DRAINAGE lines. You can use a sweep, or long-radius, 90 at the base of a stack under a slab.
@@askthebuilder thank you so much for the info. This is gonna help me a lot! I was like “no 90’s that can’t be right?!”
Hello -- for a new home build with a basement living area with bathroom and a snack area with a bar sink, and having a poured concrete floor, we would like to have an integral 2" floor drain trap with a back up device at the lowest point in a recessed mechanical room. In searching for information about venting this drain, we believe that it will not need to be vented to a vertical stack as it is 2" piping, and thus has enough free air space to not require a direct vent? Are we interpreting our findings correctly? Secondly, should we be concerned about the floor drain "drying" out and allowing sewer gas and odors to come from the septic tank? Thanks in advance for the answer.
I do phone consulting for situations like this. I'm an expert in the topic. Go here to set up the call: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
Thanks but.... I can find all the information (for free) by doing research and save my money! @@askthebuilder
I wish you the best of luck. The Interweb is littered with lots of false information. Quick question: Do you use the Internet to get free medical or legal advice? I'm a professional just as they are.
Don’t vent pipes also allow sewer gases to escape to the roof? If so, the function is bidirectional. Air travels down to maintain proper air pressure and up to move harmful gases to the roof?
Sewer gas can be pulled out of roof vent pipes by the Venturi effect as wind blows across the top of the pipe. But don't think that sewer gas floats on its own out of a vent pipe like smoke from a chimney or engine exhaust from a car/truck tailpipe. The primary purpose of vent pipes is as I talk about. They replace the air pushed DOWN the drainage system by flowing and rushing water. It's no different than air in an elevator shaft in skyscrapers.
I really did find that very interesting. cool video !
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
Did the homeowner also designate where they wanted the roof penetration? Odd to have it all the way at one end of the roof, instead of centralized for shorter run to the extremities.
Yes. They wanted the plumbing vent on a side roof not visible when you pull up the drive or walk to the front door. Some people don't like to see the plumbing vents poking out of roofs.
13:30 Must allow drainage for condensation & RAIN... yay!!! ... though i would typically not see a 50 ft run just a second roof penetration, Ive not used 1-1/2 for anything in the last ten years ... .
The homeowner INSISTED on just one roof penetration. I agree, a second vent pipe should have been put in although it would have ended up just above the front door. :-(
Have always wondered about rain water. Does it enter the roof vent and drain into the plumbing below?
Please watch the video once more - just the first five minutes. Then engage your God-given critical-thinking skills and let us know what you think. This will be a great exercise for you. After you do that, read this true story that happened to ME 52 years ago: www.askthebuilder.com/ken-caster-historical-geology-professor/
@@askthebuilderHaha lord you are a smartass. But I love it 😂
Just wondering if you could divert the vent pipe out below either side of the ridge line of the roof instead of through the roof, I am thinking about zero penetration when I re-roof with metal roof but I read some where that vent needs to be 12" above the roof.
A local inspector may allow you to vent out a sidewall, but in all cases it needs to extend up above the bottom edge of the roof. The pipe coming out of the side of the house is going to look like hell. It's EASY to create leak-proof penetrations in most metal roofs. If your metal roof is a standing-seam one, I have a video showing exactly how to put in the flashing so you NEVER HAVE a leak. I also offer phone coaching: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
It is totally acceptable to vent out a sidewall instead of penetrating the roof. I’d check your local code, but my area allows it as long as you don’t terminate the vent under an overhang with a soffit vent. You only have to go 12” above the roof line when penetrating through the roof.
And if you install something like solar panels that cover the vent pipe and protect it from snow and wind then it doesn’t even have to extend 12” from the roof.
Exactly. Solar roofing is making it much more common to get away from putting all of these hidious looking pipes and vents out through the roof. Pipes and vents sticking out through the roof look like hell to begin with, in my opinion. I just recently rerouted my air vents to the side of the house and utilized the vent at the peak of the roof and I am very happy with this setup and it works perfectly and looks much better.
This allowed for a straight shot across the roof for solar shingles. Aesthetically, this is a tremendous Improvement.
Good video 👍
You are a legend sir
Thanks. I don't feel legendary. I feel pretty ordinary. In my entire career only three people out in public have recognized me.
@@askthebuilder I appreciate your wisdom and knowledge 🤝
Why is the toilet flange installed directly onto the subfloor? Or is it actually just dry fitted in the video so it can later be installed on top of the finished floor?
It's just dry fitted. It was there to line up the sweep-90 below. The toilet flange MUST sit on top of the finished flooring.
How many feet can the fixtures (tub, vanity, and toilet) br from the vent pipe? Is it a straight line or pipe line distance?
Usually no more than 3 feet. There are exceptions in the code. It's online. Go read about it.
Why doesn't the vent pipe penetrate the roof next to the ridge? Easier to flash since no water running down off the roof - plus higher so less smell.
Just answered my own question. Must be away from ridge due to ridge venting needing to be separated from smelly, possibly explosive vent gases. th-cam.com/video/2XhOkzKFai8/w-d-xo.html
Tim, I don't believe you have an understanding of how flashings work. I suggest you watch this video of mine and then you'll see it makes little difference how much water flows down the roof across it: www.askthebuilder.com/plumbing-vent-flashing-video/
Is there a fix for the high wind syphoning the p trap? I've noticed it for a while in fall through winter and early spring months when wind are higher and the leaves are off the trees. Thanks
High winds don't syphon p-traps that are installed with a proper vent. P-traps do DRY OUT if you don't add water to them once a month.
@@askthebuilder every day I use all of it. It's really only the bathtub and it is pretty much when the trees can't obstruct the wind. There are also other videos showing yes wind can siphon them. I only have one bathroom. Several people use the shower every day. No leaks in the basement. Outside of trap is bone dry. House was built in 1890. Plumbing was updated in the 80s by a previous owner.
Can you post a video of "breaking a vent "
?? Thank you
Can you tell me what you mean by breaking a vent? Why do you need this video?
Are you allowed to vent out a wall, or does it have to go out of the roof? I'm building myself.
It's not a good idea to vent plumbing through a wall.
@askthebuilder why is that? I was always told the fewer roof penetrations, the better.
@@askthebuilderbut I think I’ve seen it before somewhere.
Are all the vent pipes tied into that 4" vent going to the exterior or are there multiple exterior vents?
All the vents for each fixture tied back into that 4-inch vent. If you want to save on pipe, you can have multiple vent stacks pop out through the roof. This owner only wanted one vent through the roof.
8:30 they really notched the crap out of those window cripples
Yes we did. There is simply too much framing going on in this tight space and it's overbuilt. The added lumber reduces the amount of insulation in the wall.
Maybe not permissible by code in your area, but curious, wouldn't it of been much easier just to do a combination waste/vent at the kitchen sink? By the way, great job, always enjoy looking at others work. It's like art! Too bad great work is always covered up. Lol
What is the minimum and maximum slope allowed for vent piping
1% and 90%
Excellent 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Hello , could you use an air admittance valve on a kitchen island that has a sink and has no other way of venting , or would you have a different suggestion .
You can do whatever you want. I'd never use an AAV. They always fail. They have moving parts. Go watch my loop vent video. or just go here to discover exactly how to do it and WHY it works: shop.askthebuilder.com/how-to-make-a-plumbing-loop-vent/
Hi, just wondering if it's okay to put a goose neck on top of the vent stack on the roof so to protect animals, debris and rain from coming into the vent?
There's nothing wrong with a candy cane on top of a vent pipe. At the last house I built for my family, huge trees showered the roof with seed pods, tiny twigs, blossoms in the spring, etc. So once a year I got up on the roof with a garden hose and stuck it in the vertical pipe and let water run for 5 minutes to flush out the vent pipe. It was easy to get up on that roof and it was relatively low-slope and safe. Not all vent pipes are easy to service like mine.
@@askthebuilder Thank you so much for replying! I will have one installed.
@@askthebuilder Actually, I forgot to mention that I live in upper NewYork...do you think that is a problem for a candy can on top of a vent pipe?
They also make things called mushroom caps
When do you decide if a 90 or 45 is used?
Easy. It's all about air vs water. I could type for quite some time. If you're willing to invest in some education, I can teach you all about when you use what. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
Does Code limit the amount of total bends in the vent pipe?
ZioPinoSoaps Pino yes
cliffordwda green - Can you call out the section of the IPC where it says this? Here's a copy of the 2015 code: codes.iccsafe.org/public/document/code/550/9795976
For venting specifically not. The 2015 IRC limits the maximum distance of fixture trap from vents and fixture unit loads on vent sizes. For sump vents there are some distance limitations based on vent size but as far as elbows are concerned no nothing nothing for venting. Keep in mind air flows better than water and limitations on bends, elbows, etc is for the purpose of maintaining water pressure.
Is there a reason that the 4" part of that intake pipe through the roof isn't lined with heat tape and permanently provided power so that their is not a chance of that pipe freezing in cold climates?!
Fantastic question! Google this: heat tape fire danger Second, engage your critical-thinking skills and ponder the tens of thousands of New England houses that have cast-iron 4-inch vent stacks installed and in service for over 140 years. Do you think if they froze up constantly that the plumbers would continue to install them since the 1880s?
When your talking about the h fitting in the bathroom connecting the water closet and lav is the a 3x3 wye with a reducing coupling for the 2" lav brach?
It's a 3x3 wye under the floor. The toilet is wet-vented by the lav sink per the UPC.
Do you think Air Admittance Valves will ever replace all that PVC and poking holes in the roof?
+59seank Hah! I've been waiting in the weeds for this comment. It's a GREAT question.
I believe some will take the shortcut and go down the crooked pathway of AAVs. Here's what I don't like about them. They're mechanical. They have moving parts. They will ALL FAIL at some point. When that happens, can you count on the homeowner to recognize the problem?
Vents like you see in this video will never fail. What's more, when you put in a full-size 3-inch or larger vent like you see in this video, you can easily flush it out if you want. A tennis ball will pass down it with ease, and Mother Nature's physics will work flawlessly for all time.
Plumbers using the *best* practices like this have done venting with no issues since the late 1800's. This methodology is time tested and you never have to worry about it. Proceed down the AAV pathway at your own risk.
As for poking holes in roofs, if you do it right and use the RIGHT flashing, you'll never have a leak. WATCH this video to see how it's done: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html
+Ask the Builder Have you ever had to flush out a roof vent? What typically blocks a plumbing roof vent? What are the symptoms of a blocked vent? Is there a more attractive alternative to the ubiquitous white PVC pipe sticking through the roof?
+59seank Yes. I've flushed out large 4-inch CAST IRON vents in older homes that had 90-degree bends in them just as you see in this video. The blockages were caused by decades of rust scale that dropped down from the sides of the cast iron. Water sucked from fixture traps. Paint the pipe. That's what I did at my home and on many jobs and you barely notice them. Work with a CREATIVE plumber like me and put the vent pipes on parts of the roof not readily visible from the street or other parts of the lot. That's where most builders and plumbers fall down. They take the easy way out. Good luck on your projects. I'll not be able to answer any more of your questions because I have so much to do.
+Ask the Builder Thanks for responding.
Is it is acceptable to have air come down a vent and out of tub drain? And if so could this displace water in a p-trap below the tub drain?
Air is supposed to come down vent pipes to the drain lines. If the plumbing system is not installed correctly and you have syphoning of water from the tub drain, that's NOT okay. Sounds like you should get on the phone with me: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I have one more question if you don’t mind:
There will be two washrooms one on the first floor and the second directly above.
I want to have one vent through the roof. Do I connect the vents from the first floor fixtures a few feet above the fixtures or do these vents have to connect to the vertical vent above the second floor fixtures? Thanks again.
I've been a master plumber since 1981. Time for one of my phone consults: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
Excellent!
Many thanks! You can help support the channel by clicking the text *THANKS* link under the video.
About putting the tees upside down ? Wouldn't you want to not do this in the event that water somehow backs up into a vent pipe or condensation now the water is stuck at that tee and can't drain out ?
Air is air and flows better than water I would assume is there really a need for an upside down t to help the direction of air ?
I'm happy to explain all of this over the phone. Far too much to type. I've been a master plumber since 1981. Invest in your education: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
Do you leave the stub part that comes out of the wall unglued until the drywall gets installed or do you glue it and then trim the stub later when the vanity sink p-trap is being installed to the vanity sink? Do you prefer to glue the p-trap or use a compression fitting so that the p-trap can be replaced more easily? I'm working on a bathroom in a 47 year old single story house. I replaced the 1-1/2 vent pipe cause i had to rebuild the framing on a load bearing wall. I'm also wondering if i should upgrade the drain to a 2-inch drain instead of using the 1-1/2 drain for the vanity. The bathroom has a 1-1/2 vent pipe for the vanity and a 2-inch vent pipe for the toilet and a 2-inch vent pipe for a tub/shower.
You can do whatever you want. If you need help over the phone, I offer that service. I've been a master plumber since 1981.
@@askthebuilder How much for help over the phone?
Thank you sir!!!
You're welcome. If you're *serious* about the thanks, please click the THANKS text link under the video and maybe buy me three scoops of ice cream.
Can a vent pipe be repaired ?, i had a person put a exhaust fan in my bathroom and made a hole on my vent pipe to put the exhaust duck in there instead of going through the roof , i was really upset that he did that ....
Yes, you can repair a vent pipe. I offer phone coaching. A simple 15-minute call may be all you need. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
how do you keep cold air from coming up through a shower or sink drain?
The water in the trap would stop this. If you don't have a trap, you've got *BIGGER* problems than cold air.
Thank you.
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
Can I vent out my soffit?
Poorly formed question but I'll answer it. You can do ANYTHING you want. You might have asked: Is it a good idea to put a plumbing vent out through a soffit? HELL NO! Go watch my Plumbing Vent Pipe Flashing video where I show how to install the BEST flashing known to man or woman - one that will never leak.
Very Interesting!
thanks for the Upload!
If you're really *serious* about thanking me, click the THANKS text link and do the right thing.
Why not having more than 1 vent pipe exiting the roof?
Because the owner of the house only wanted one. Putting in two more would have been the smart thing to do. One at the kitchen and one by that bathroom near the garage. But I couldn't talk him into it.
Why didn't you use a sanitary tee at 4:52?
Because the homeowner INSISTED on using the TY fitting. I informed him it was against code creating an illegal S trap. The town the house was built in has NO inspections of any type. No building inspection, no electrical inspection, no PLUMBING inspection so I knew I'd not have to cut out the fitting. As of this date all these years later, the trap has NEVER been suctioned dry by the adjacent toilet. Also, filling up the sink to the brim and pulling the stopper doesn't create enough siphoning action to suck the trap dry. You should experiment with this by building your own crude setup. It's all about how high the S trap is and how much water is flowing out of the vessel.
@@askthebuilder Now there is more questions. lol Why did the homeowner insist on using the wye? I gotta hear why they know better than the plumbing code.
1. It was *HIS* house - the UPC code officials were not making the mortgage payments. He felt that the down angle of the wye would prevent hair, cosmetic goo, toothpaste, etc. from hanging up on the lip of the sanitary tee.
2. Don't always assume the code is correct. Example: I once piped a bathroom with 1/2-inch-diameter PVC tubing temporarily to see if that small pipe would admit enough air when all fixtures drained at once. It worked perfectly. Many forget that the air pressure at or near sea level is 14.2 PSI. Have you ever seen a rubber test plug shoot across the room from a sanitary 1.5-inch tee at just 5 PSI? I have. Yes, I understand they want bigger vent pipes to prevent long-term clogs, etc.
Can you oversize your vents
Yes you can. It's a waste of material. I once did an experiment and vented an entire bathroom with 1/2-inch copper tubing. It worked perfectly draining all the fixtures at once with no syphoning. Many forget what the PSI is of the air surrounding us. It's 14.1 pounds per square inch pushing down the vent pipes for goodness sake. This is why a *tiny pinprick hole* is all you need on a large plastic water jug to allow water to flow out the spigot unrestricted.
this was good very good
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
No strapping?
No. Why is it needed??? A huge waste of time and lumber. Do you put strapping on walls? Why not??????? Does the USG Gypsum Construction Handbook require strapping?
Not real sure how condensate will travel those 90 degree turns up and over down. Sounds good, but really?
Can you give me the time stamps in the video where you feel condensate is traveling UP? All the vent lines in this video are sloped so the condensate runs to a vertical stack and then down into the building drain. It's probably a very good idea for you to bone up on the UPC.
What is the maximum horizontal distance allowed between a fixture and its vertical portion (going through roof)?
Check the code in your area. You might be able to get away with 42 inches.
Thanks
@@askthebuilder I’m confused, how is the 50 to 60’ horizontal section ok then that branches off from the 3” section you show? Sorry I’ve been sifting through vent code and just when I think I get it, I see an example that’s to code but I can’t seem to make sense of haha
@@mccarseat I think the 42” distance is from the vanity or shower drain before the vent ties in. I don’t know if there is a regulation for horizontal pipe up in the attic.
How do i reach Tim ?
Simple. Go here and select one of the consult calls: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
Why run that much piping why just not put a second vent in
There are pros and cons. The pro is less piping. The big con of a second vent is there is another hole in your roof that you need to make sure there is proper flashing around. Considering how cheap PVC is, and how many leaky roofs I have to deal with, I know which option I would choose.
Another TH-camr talked about minimizing roof leaks. It's not an issue at all if you put in the RIGHT flashing and install it correctly. The crappy Oatey ones fail. WATCH this video of mine to see the BEST plumbing vent flashing out there and how EASY it is to weave it into the shingles for NO LEAKS EVER: th-cam.com/video/dfliETAVTeI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
Im not a license plumber but I do enough to know something's on it and I live in mass where the codes change alot on things daily lol
And thank you for the tips
Plumbing wet pipe in an exterior wall?
What? Installing DWV pipes in exterior walls is common. What is your concern? What is the practice where you live. Where do you live?
Where else does one install a kitchen sink? The middle of the kitchen?
Didn't see a vent for the toilet. If you're using that 3" in that 2"×6" wall as your water closet vent, you've already failed inspection in Kentucky. You've got a wet vent, and a flat vent. Niether will pass inspection here. Each fixture needs an individual vent that needs to be washed. I keep seeing these damn videos posted all over youtube giving irrelevant info to people in my state. These how too's and explanation videos can get spmeone in real trouble here in Kentucky. We're strict here. Depending in the severity of the infraction you could get fined $500.00 or face 1-5 years in jail. Call a plumber in my state if you need a house roughed in. Don't attempt it yourself. Our code can be complicated, but it's that way for a REASON.
The UPC has had that wet vent setup for years. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it from a best practices standpoint. Have you ever questioned WHY in KY it's not allowed? Can those who disallow it give you examples of how the toilet won't function (it does perfectly) or that it can't get enough air if the vanity bowl full of water is draining (the toilet gets plenty of air because the 1.5-inch pipe can't possibly fill the short vertical 3-inch stack with water)?
In other words, have you engaged your God-given critical-thinking skills to CHALLENGE what is being enforced? You should because there are hundreds of THOUSANDS of these wet vents all over the USA that work perfectly fine.
And share with us how your DRY vents in KY get washed. Anything above a sanitary tee is a vent and it's dry except for condensation. Everything BELOW a sanitary tee is a stack, not a vent.
We await your answers. Better yet, use your TH-cam channel for its intended purpose. Record a video showing us all the KY craziness and back it up with science not speculation. Once you upload the video to your channel, come back and share the URL here.
Isn't the pipe for the master vanity wrong? Shouldn't it be a tee not a y and 45 now a days?
Yes, it's a shallow S-trap. I explained WHY it's wrong in the video description. It should have been a tee, but the homeowner insisted on the wye.
It would seem to me that when you pull the drain plug that the (replacement air) would come from the drain itself, not needing a vent pipe for every water fixtures (sinks, showers, washing machine). They are not like toilets where water fills up right away blocking air to follow the waste, therefore a vent pipe makes sense to me, and it allows the bad smell to evacuate outside. But sinks, showers etc.. don't have that issue. Air would be replaced through the drain itself
You would think wrong... The trap always has water in it. If it doesn't, then the fixture is not vented properly.
Too convoluted. I’m sure it could have had a simpler layout.
The primary collector vent line runs down the center of the house and all the individual vents connect to it. How much simpler could it get? This is a great opportunity for you to use your channel. Why not create a video of your own showing how to simplify the layout. Upload it and then come back here and paste in the URL to your video so we can see the fruits of your labor.
Maine, our plumber had 3" all the way out the roof. Hoping it won't freeze? Our attic is vented so climate is same as outside. 🫣
This is a great example of what happens to 99.9% of the population. They don't do their research *before* the job happens. As Queen Cersei says to Lord Stark in Game of Thrones, "Such a sad mistake."