Why DIY Chainsaw Mill BEATS Band Mill (cutting a Massive Oak)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2018
- Let's discuss how and why making lumber on a DIY Alaskan chainsaw mill can be better than milling it on a bandmill. The long-standing debate about which is best, chainsaw mill vs bandsaw mill, is mainly a matter of circumstances. In this video I am (sorta) showing how this is the case by sawing up a huge wind felled Oaktree and making some nice slabs.
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In the next one I will get to making beams and structural elements from the bigger bits of oak - for now we are just milling medium to small logs, and cutting boards for my friend Paul's outdoor workbench.
![How to Sharpen a Chainsaw with Elegant Efficiency [smoother & straighter cuts]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/a1XUBdvwjnE/mqdefault.jpg)
I wish I could still remember what it felt like to look at a fallen tree with wonder and possibilities. . That's something priceless.
Great video. A chain saw mill has been on my wish list for a while!
Thanks for the tip with the wrench, lost a pile of oil being stubborn working in the wind the other day
I'm convinced. It also seems like less of a leap to build a chainsaw mill. Bandsaws are just too finicky for out in the bush. Too much tinkering. Too much commitment. Your design will probably influence what I end up building heavily. Thanks a bunch!
Loving the Star Wars analogies!
Another fan here of the chainsaw mills👍🏻. I have an Alaskan mill running a MS390 on a 25” bar. Mainly for benches, tables & the like. Great informative & smile forming channel. I’ve just found it & subscribed. I look forward to more vids :)
Thanks Robert, that means a lot to me. Yep, the CS mills certainly do make some good unique tables and benches :)
A great overview for people on the Alaskan Mill. I run the same kit as you i think and would agree that you definitely need the right power to mill effectively. I got fed up with the effort involved, so fitted a winch, makes it easier if you are doing a lot of this. Also found it really important to use a 3M respirator, as the fumes are really nasty when you're so close up, found myself getting headaches a few hrs after use.
I can't justify a big mill for the amount I cut, and not sure I want the care needed associated with owning one either, so this gives me the freedom and control to cut my own timber. Also nice to see some respect for the tree, too many people are just interested in commercial type felling and never seem to plant anything to come behind it.
John Roper fully agree with you. Will mention about the respirator in the vid description - it's quite important.
I used to mill without respirator, having the inconvenience of lots of dust in the nose, but now I'm also using one of 3M. Much better now, but I only have filters against the dust, not the fumes. Which type of filters do U use to filter the fumes? Keep up the good milling! Opening a tree with the mill is like opening a present
Ditto
Nicely done easily the best mill for that job. I run a 440 on the edging mill for making beams love it. Blaise
The 440 is an awesome saw ;) love your vids by the way...
Subscription for the Star Wars analogy!
I have a 2 ton semi-clapped out (but mechanically good) dumper - a 4wd one. I use it as a timber skidder, log carrier, wood extractor, wood puller & general "get you into places not much else will get you to" yoke - you'd find one very handy for this work, Mr Elbowgrease. It's also ideal for lugging out heavy slabs. :-)
I share your views on making useful timber out of what would be wasted wood - but alaskan mills bore me witless so i just learnt how to cut slabs freehand like they do in the 3rd world etc etc - which I do.. erm, cut slabs. Having seen your mill, it looks a lot less dull than most of the ones out there, so the design may get knocked off with little or no credit being given to the originator - I.E You.. what for making me look smarterer with the missus & whatnot. :-)
Love your work 👍
I was wondering about this at 6:27 having overheated and ruined my Stihl MS250 using a mill. Rebuild kit arrives next week. Selling the Alaskan mill and looking and bandsaw mills.
Great info, thanks!
Sweet Video man. Thanks
Thanks for the encouragement :)
I'm using your instructable guide to build a mill. When looking closer at your mill in the videos, I see you added inside corner brackets to 3 sides of the vertical alignment piece closest to the saw, and another one on the nose end of the bar. And you have a horizontal bracket connecting the vertical piece to the height adjusting piece at the nose of the bar. Can you explain what problems you were having that made you add them? Especially the horizontal bracket at the nose. Thanks!
enjoyed that :)
Monster tree, shame to see it die, but great that you can get some really good use out of it :-) I felled around 200sqm of forest using a 300mm/12" dewalt 18V chainsaw about a year ago, went very well, only took me a week while working half days remotely on my laptop during sunlight hours, cutting timber first thing and last thing. Near silent for stealth and plenty powerful enough - the largest trunk was a mere 350mm wide requiring backward cuts to complete on the tiny saw, but before that day I had never felled a tree at all, only light use of dad's chainsaws from time to time. But, needs must, legislation change forced the timing. Around 1000sqm plus still remains and only 2 common species were cut (by luck), no special trees got the chop. :-)
Your higher speed sections of this video were just missg benny hill music :) Realize this is an old video just been browsing lumber milling videos. Thanks for posting this
Thanks for commenting, old it may be, but always nice to hear from a real person :)
I drilled holes through the ladder rungs. Hmmm...an "oh Dah?" moment....LOL!
I have had that exact same problem with the same set up
Good stuff, thanks for the video.. Here on Pocket83's recommendation. Cheers, David
Hey DRMNZ, welcome! And thanks for getting in touch. Great to hear from a Pocket83 viewed - I love his stuff. Hope you get something out of some of my other vids. Peace, Bongo.
With that kind of weather and all, one might just considered 'logging' out 😁😂
lol
Hi I have looked at the list of your video's but can not find one on building the mill, do you have one if so what is it called, thank you
Hi Douglas. Good question. This video is on my to-do list... I do have a big resource over on Instructables with plans - just google "flowering elbow & how to make chainsaw mill and it should come up...
Hope that helps for now, any questions just ask, Bongo
Wow - on my MS250, the oiler (filter) would never tolerate all those chips visible in the shot where you filled with bar oil.
Heres a tip. I jave a 24 inch bar for my 660 that I use on smaller wood. Less sharpening on those smaller ones.
I like the voice over.
do you use a normal chain or a special ripping chain ?
@@hikemoreh96pro ripping chain.. Oregon. I love it. Full house.
Great looking slabs, best way to salvage the wood . I'm interested in the mill. How many trees has the mill gone through? Im concerned about the vibration on th 8020 bar attached to the saw bar. But I would like to see a video on how it was constructed. Thanks
Richard Britt I don't have a vid on the construction of the cs mill... but did do a whole big instructable on the subject... I will dig the link out when I get to a proper computer.
It's been through quite a few now...
www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/
Great video! What kind of blade do you have on your chainsaw? Your slabs are so smooth afterwards. My slabs come out with deep grooves in them from the saw teeth.
Samuel Dunn thanks, In this video I was using a bog standard RS stihl 404 30 degree top plate angle... which ever type you use 10 degree rip chain or standard the sharpening is crucial and I'd be tempted to say is almost impossible to do completely evenly by hand file methods... I have loads of other tips for smoothness - will put in the next vid...
That was going to be my next question but I'll wait for the next video instead! Looking forward to it.
I'd love to see more milling videos from you. I'm just getting into it myself and dream of cutting trees like the ones you've milled!
Also, how about a workshop tour?
Hey Woodland Guy. Thanks for the comment. Have you really seen all my CS milling vids? The bench making one?
I probably will do more, but am struggling to not make repetitive videos...
Workshop tour maybe...
i get really rough cuts. any advice to get smoother 1st cuts with my mill?
Hey Cal, thanks for watching. Check out my other videos on CS milling and especially the one about chain sharpening... If you still have problems ask and give us some more details, and we should be able to help.
I want to Buy This Chainsaw .. please give me details of it.. cost of it & how can I buy it.. please reply..
Hi there. It's a Stihl ms880. it was aout £1100 when I got it. You can get one from any Sthil dealers. Hope that help, Bongo
I am just getting started and appreciate so much your insight, even if you did call me Bongo. I want to order a 100' roll of chain, what type should I get?
There's so many choices man! Oregon 91VXL100U VersaCut Saw Chain, 100' Reel
by Oregon
OREGON 72LPX100U 100-Feet Reel of Super 70 Chisel Chain, 3/8-Inch
OREGON 22LPX100U 100-Feet Reel Super 20 Chain Saw, 0.325-Inch
Does it matter much which I get? Which would you get? Thx man.
Hey Rusedorange, thank you for your kind words. Apologies if I called you Bongo - that's what people call me so must be some confusion there!
As for chain, I cant really help I'm afraid, I only have first hand knowledge of a few of them, and as you say the choice is vast...
Could really do with a scientific-ish, rip test of a whole bunch couldn't we.... hmmm, maybe a video in the works.
Sorry I couldn't be more help...
Cheers for now,
Bongo.
Did you use a ripping chain? And what is the angle that you sharpe?
Hey Martin. Good question, lots to be said on that subject. Check out my chain sharpening video - should answer you ;)
paused the video to say awesome references!!
backtobasics thanks 😃
Wow. I would think the ms440 would be a great milling saw. If I'm not mistaken the 440 is a 70cc displacement, correct? Its a big saw and I currently have one with a 20" bar. I'm actually thinking about buying a smaller saw because of its size. A 38cc saw would better suit my needs as a landowner. Most of the stuff I cut is small however I did slab up some northern pine and the 440 did fine. I haven't tried hardwood yet though.
Good day Matt, thanks for getting in touch. You're right, the 440 is a 70cc saw. I guess it is both big and very small, depending on the size of trees you plan to cut!
After pushing it too hard milling, and rebuilding it a few times, I can say it's too small for what I want (slabbing 1.5ft and up hardwoods). It is just perfect for general ground work though (for my body size etc.) Obviously if doing more tricksy stuff, like laying hedges or something, I'm all for small...
Thanks again,
Bongo.
Friends! If you found any of the useful or intriguing you will also probably really enjoy this Chainsaw Milling tips video that has 17(!) tips that will help you make better boards with a CS mill. goo.gl/QDNfiy
Awesome..
What sized chainsaw did they use for this project?
An ms880 for the milling and an ms440 for the clearing up...
greetings sir may i ask the make and model of your chain saw and make an model of your alaskan saw mill please ? i'm living in an oak forest on our property and i too want to build an oak work bench. many thanks in advance for your assistance cheers
HI William, the saw's an Stihl ms880, and the cs mill is one I made from t-slot extruded aluminium. If you are interested I talk more about both things in various videos in my chainsaw milling playlist th-cam.com/play/PL95ElZTgRGGt9_ST0yXkRq1Qbub57UUa0.html
@@FloweringElbow merci beaucoup je vais la voir de suite cheers
There's going to be some absolutely insane figure where all those branches come out in the top of the trunk.
So do you just use a ladder on top?
I’d like to see how your oiler works.
In a video coming soon....
how many cords of firewood did you make with that tree, it should have left plenty!
Lots of firewood. But to be honest I still haven't got them out of the big. They are stacked up out there. Maybe one of these days when the ground is freezing...
What type of stihl and chaintype are you running?
Cristijn de Vin standard stihl rapid super 404 chain. The Ms880 saw.
FloweringElbow awesome setup. I’m running a 660 on a 42” 3/8 bar
@FloweringElbow, do you,( and if so, how) set your depth gauges?
You're using a bar other than Stihl for your 660, right? Stihl told me they recommend max 36 inch bar for their MS 660, but I sure could use a little longer bar right now, before I have to move up to their 880 saw and much longer bar.
yazhyk stihl says the oilpump is max capable of lubricating bars up to 36”. I’m using an extra external oiler on the tip of the blade
What chainsaw and bar do you use?
Hi T-rex good question. It's a stihl ms880 and a 47" hardnose stihl guide bar. Hope that helps. Loads more detail of my milling rig in my other chainsawing vids...
@@FloweringElbow Yes thanks. Thats a monster saw. I need it for slabbing big oak and making some timber frame posts and beams. I will check out your other videos.
@@trex283 cool cool. Any other questions just drop us a comment.
Great video, but don't you go through a metric ton of fuel? Chains constantly need sharpened, especially on those hardwoods, and it's really hard on the chainsaw powerhead.
G'day wood life. Thanks for the comment, and sorry I'm only just getting to it. Everything you said it true!
"They both kill rebel scum" LOL
Have you thought about putting an assist mechanism on the bar to help pull the saw through the wood as you turn a crank hanlde which in turn tightens a cable/rope attached to opposite end of the log? That way you will not have to physically push the saw through the wood.
Good evening Tony and Sharon. Thanks for the comment/ question. Yes, I am going to make a vid on this topic soon... In general if you have a sharp chain and orient the log so that you are cutting downhill, you should have to pull very little though... That said, orienting downhill, isn't always possible or convenient... Peace, Bongo
Is this in 'Yoak- sha"?
Nope ;)
Also 4:47 to 4:53 are my moments of youtube fame
Yeah. Did you see the comment about why males don't live so long? Made me chuckle.
@@FloweringElbow It's because we men are red meat eatin, cigar smokin, whisky drinkin FREEDOM lovers
were can i find dying trees that i can mill legally?
Haha. look out for them then ask the owner... Go for walks after a big storm... Get friendly with people that live in the sticks.. etc.
National Forests. small fee for a Permit, talk to the Rangers.
You would think National forest but in my area I was told by the usfs dead or down permit was firewood only
Could you take your firewood in 10' lengths for cutting into rounds later? You'd have to get creative in the joints with logs that short, but where there is a will, there is always a way.
I have yet to be approached about it as its pretty remote area,just think its absurd they would rather it rot than anyone use it
The portability is by far the reason. I can carry a 60" mill out in the bush, in the middle of the forest or wherever. A 40" bandsaw? Yea, good luck. Don't even start me on the price difference lol. Different tools for different uses. A bandsaw will always beat a chainsaw mill in speed and work volume, for sure. But a big chainsaw powerhead @~120cc will slab even the largest trees you can find. Can't do the with the largest of bandsaw mills worth hundreds of thousands of dollars.
Right on the money there, yes!
A chainsaw mill is the tool of last resort.
I have a mobile bandsaw mill, a lucus slabbing and a chainsaw mill.
If the log CAN fit on the bandsaw Millie goes on there. The thin kerf of the bandsaw mill makes it about 5 times faster than my slabbing mill. The slabbing mill also has a 23hp Briggs and Stratton engine same as the bandsaw mill. The kerf of the slabbing mill is .404 so it has to remove lots of material vs the bandsaw mill. I can cut about 28” wide on the bandsaw mill. I can cut bout 50 slabs a day without my real problem other than moving the wood otherwise it would be even more.
Compare that to the chainsaw mill.when I use it I use a Stihl 660 magnum( a big ass saw) with a .404 bar. It’s not as long as the slabbing mill, only about 50” lbs long. It’s very slow compared to the slabber and standing still compared to the bandsaw mill.
If you ever get a big mill you will DREAD using the chainsaw mill I promise you that.
Hey Jack, sounds like the voice of experience. Appreciate you taking the time my friend. Peace, Bongo.
Hmm....seems like a hybrid mill would be the ticket. You have a "dedicate" chain saw for your mill anyway. Something like a small gas engine driving a bandsaw blade would take care of the waste concerns...but are they really concerns? you have 5-6mm per cut difference, so you lose 1inch every 4 to 5 cuts? Say 10 cuts to lose a whole 2inch slab? But 10x 2inch slabs would be 20inches of flat cuts! Seems like your way is just fine for field work. A proper lumber mill that needs to be hyper efficient seems like a band saw makes sense.
Like
chainsaw needs a good grind, more dust then chips flying around
Is that just a normal ladder or a special one bought for the chainsaw ❔what other items do I buy with the chainsaw to start cutting planks ❔👍🇬🇧
Just a normal ladder. The milling attachment... check out some of the other vids on this channel...
Having had both, I just can't agree with you on this. Far too easy to have a log arch on your ATV and just move all the millable material to a SAFE location and toss it on the band mill. Less waste, far safer in this kind of instance and time is money. Spending 4 times the effort and time to get it done just decreased the value for me way too much.
Vikingblooded Kraftwerks good points all, but... if you don't got a bandmill. .. Even a tractor with a big log arch wouldn't be pulling this one out of this bog. Not easily anyway. The atv no chance at all!
you'd be surprised. I've pulled some pretty big stuff out with an arch and a few snatch blocks.
I'm wondering how many bandsaw mills you've owned? Also what type? How many log arches have you used. You talk about chainsaw kerf as a a strict dimension on the chainsaw (regardless of how rough the cut is), then talk about the bandsaw blade drifting and wavering in hardwoods, and therefore adding to the kerf for a bandsaw. Obviously you haven't considered the wastage due to the extremely rough slab left by the chainsaw, at least 0.50", if not more, by the time your slab is planed smooth and flat.
If a bandsaw blade is drifting and wavering, it is of poor quality or construction or design, and or out of adjustment.
If all you have to use is a chainsaw mill then great job. Don't start bashing bandsaw mills because you don't have one. Great job using the resources you have and not letting the tree go to waste.
Customcutter, bandsaws are awesome, I just don't have one. Getting smooth boards (comparable to the best bandsaw finish) IS very possible with CS mills with good technique and a bit of practice.
He did mention that in hardwoods you lose more.
Came back here to reminisce about bog dwelling sawdust creation!
For price you cannot bet the Alaskan Mill so if you are only doing the odd tree now and again the price is not justified in a band saw mill.
Why the fk didnt you bring the atv with a trailer on it from the beginning..
4:47 they say males live shorter than females, I can say way. Just kidding anyway nice work there
He's not a typical male!
Don't mill branches.
The tension compression will warp the boards.
👍
I saw it. When the board was almost sawn through, it started to lift at the open end. Maybe a short beam would work?
Good ol' AmeriCANS.!