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Thanks Ted. I got the same machine torn down in my garage right now. I have the base and head cleaned primed and painted. The table and other pieces next. The spindle looks good. I cant decide on whether to tear it down or not. i have all the bearings coming in from Ebay tomorrow or the next day. Thanks for the tutorial. I look forward to more vids!
G'day Rusty. Since you have it that far, you might as well go all the way. Long as you tram it all in, you should have a good run with it. Have fun & let me know how it all finishes up
Apart from a bit of backlash in the feed screws - backlash couldn't be 1/8" since the lead screw pitch looks to be about 1/8", the main problem is you were not using sensible milling practices. 1). if possible, always cut in a direction whereby the rotation of the cutter pushes or rotates the work away from the cutter. 2). if not possible to do the above, use the table lock, that's what it's there for. 3). prior to cutting, stop to tink what the consequences o fyour actions will or may be.
Thanks for your comments. I was emphasising the amount of side movement & the noise you could hear & if you look closely you can see the table moving. 90% of the time I do a standard cut with a the swarf or shaving being sent away from the cutting surface & not a climb cut. You have to realise the Mill is over 20 years old, & this is the first time any major work has been done. Hope this satisfy's you, unless you would like to pick on something else
G'day Ken. Thanks for your question, I still have the 6" vice on the mill. It is a fraction big for the table, but works really well. I think the 5" is a better fit & allows a bit extra movement. I have also made an extension plate which bolts on the end of the moveable jaw, which sits proud over the top of the moveable flat section which allows about 8" plate size onto the vice for machining or drilling etc
I almost bought one of these in 1980 back in UK before I emigrated to OZ as I assumed OZ was a backwater and machinery hadn't been invented etc.......they were affectionately known as Taiwanese Terrors due to the very poor production at the time..
G'day. Thanks for your input. This particular unit is in top shape. If you check out the other videos, you will see it had lots of attention, so it runs really well.
@@TedRoza Having used one at a friend's establishment I can say truly they are not worth the money at half the price but better than nothing if that is all that is available...........just my opinion.
Hi! I have same machine like yours... One year old Jet jmd-18 . IT IS now pieces on My workshop table. there is so much to do... Dowetails,gibs,leadscrew bearings,column lining.... B R from Finland
Hello Micco. Thank you for your comments. Be careful if you remove the main virtical tube, when you remove the 4 main bolts there should be alignment shims under there, which is used for tramming adjustments for the Virtical left & right adjustments. I hope my video helps you a bit
Thanks ted I have the Hafco version hm-30 is there any difference between the two and my spindle has some play in it i May need to replace the bearings can you still get parts for these Machines thanks again ted🇦🇺🍺🍺
Hi Tina. Thanks for your comments, & quires. Far as I know the Hafco HM-30 is the same Mill except for the on/off switch & name re labelling. The 30 generally designates MT 3 even though I believe both also had an option depends where you were situated came with R8 spindle. Depends where you are situated, you can contact Hare & Forbs Machinary House, which are the Agents, so you should be able to get parts. If not, & you have to change the " Z " spindle barings, you should be able to source the Barings through one of the Barings outlets. Call out if I can be of further help.
Thanks. If you had been local I could have shown you how to do it. Remove the fine spindle & cross shaft, place block of wood or something under the spindle, then in the nose of the spindle there is a wedge slot, place a flat bar through there to lock the spindle, then remove the large belt drive, undo the large nut, then the spindle should come out the bottom. Be careful to check for any shims, which have to go back in the same position. Make sure if changing the spindle Barings, that the same thickness barings go back in. If not place shims to make up the space to the .001" or to the closest part of a mm. When refitting the shaft you have to recheck the virticle movement for backlash to the .001" , which is very important, or chatter will occure on horizontal cuts. You can slightly overcome chatter by loading the downward spindle & locking into position. Hope this helps
@Mark Needham As far as Weight after teardown, I wouldn't know, I don't have scales to check that out. My mill is on cabinet stand which came with the mill as an assembly. To be honest unless I am going to move it around the weight is of no consequence to myself at this time
@@TedRoza Sorry 'bout that Ted. Check the spelling, I was having a joke/play with words. Bear/Bare and Tare/Tear. The world is not getting any better at spelling, Hey!.
G'day Mark. Thanks for your comments. To be safe, I thought it would be better to strip down the X & Y slides which is the pretty well the same as compound & cross slides on a lathe. You know step by step & check everything so that is what I am trying to do
You are up to your armpits in this one Ted. But it’s the right way to do it, clean it all down & check everything. Sing out if you need a lift with anything. Should be better than new once your done with it.
Thanks Ted. I got the same machine torn down in my garage right now. I have the base and head cleaned primed and painted. The table and other pieces next. The spindle looks good. I cant decide on whether to tear it down or not. i have all the bearings coming in from Ebay tomorrow or the next day. Thanks for the tutorial. I look forward to more vids!
G'day Rusty. Since you have it that far, you might as well go all the way. Long as you tram it all in, you should have a good run with it. Have fun & let me know how it all finishes up
I see you adhered to the old adage " Don't force it, get a bigger hammer"
Apart from a bit of backlash in the feed screws - backlash couldn't be 1/8" since the lead screw pitch looks to be about 1/8", the main problem is you were not using sensible milling practices.
1). if possible, always cut in a direction whereby the rotation of the cutter pushes or rotates the work away from the cutter.
2). if not possible to do the above, use the table lock, that's what it's there for.
3). prior to cutting, stop to tink what the consequences o fyour actions will or may be.
Thanks for your comments. I was emphasising the amount of side movement & the noise you could hear & if you look closely you can see the table moving.
90% of the time I do a standard cut with a the swarf or shaving being sent away from the cutting surface & not a climb cut.
You have to realise the Mill is over 20 years old, & this is the first time any major work has been done.
Hope this satisfy's you, unless you would like to pick on something else
G'day Ted. Are you still using that big 6" vice on the mill or have you gone to a smaller one? I'm not sure if a 6" is too big for my RF45 clone.
G'day Ken. Thanks for your question, I still have the 6" vice on the mill. It is a fraction big for the table, but works really well. I think the 5" is a better fit & allows a bit extra movement.
I have also made an extension plate which bolts on the end of the moveable jaw, which sits proud over the top of the moveable flat section which allows about 8" plate size onto the vice for machining or drilling etc
Thanks Ted.@@TedRoza
I almost bought one of these in 1980 back in UK before I emigrated to OZ as I assumed OZ was a backwater and machinery hadn't been invented etc.......they were affectionately known as Taiwanese Terrors due to the very poor production at the time..
G'day. Thanks for your input. This particular unit is in top shape. If you check out the other videos, you will see it had lots of attention, so it runs really well.
@@TedRoza Having used one at a friend's establishment I can say truly they are not worth the money at half the price but better than nothing if that is all that is available...........just my opinion.
Hi! I have same machine like yours... One year old Jet jmd-18 . IT IS now pieces on My workshop table. there is so much to do... Dowetails,gibs,leadscrew bearings,column lining....
B R from Finland
Hello Micco. Thank you for your comments. Be careful if you remove the main virtical tube, when you remove the 4 main bolts there should be alignment shims under there, which is used for tramming adjustments for the Virtical left & right adjustments. I hope my video helps you a bit
Bit of a mission there Ted
G'day Matty. Step by step inch by inch lol.
Thanks ted I have the Hafco version hm-30 is there any difference between the two and my spindle has some play in it i May need to replace the bearings can you still get parts for these Machines thanks again ted🇦🇺🍺🍺
Hi Tina. Thanks for your comments, & quires. Far as I know the Hafco HM-30 is the same Mill except for the on/off switch & name re labelling. The 30 generally designates MT 3 even though I believe both also had an option depends where you were situated came with R8 spindle.
Depends where you are situated, you can contact Hare & Forbs Machinary House, which are the Agents, so you should be able to get parts.
If not, & you have to change the " Z " spindle barings, you should be able to source the Barings through one of the Barings outlets.
Call out if I can be of further help.
@@TedRoza thanks mate will you do a video when you do the job it will help a lot if you do thanks for quick response 🇦🇺🍺🍺
Hi Tina. At this stage my spindle Barings are ok. I am in Beechboro. WA, Where are you situated.
@@TedRoza I’m in nsw 🇦🇺✌️
Thanks. If you had been local I could have shown you how to do it. Remove the fine spindle & cross shaft, place block of wood or something under the spindle, then in the nose of the spindle there is a wedge slot, place a flat bar through there to lock the spindle, then remove the large belt drive, undo the large nut, then the spindle should come out the bottom.
Be careful to check for any shims, which have to go back in the same position.
Make sure if changing the spindle Barings, that the same thickness barings go back in. If not place shims to make up the space to the .001" or to the closest part of a mm. When refitting the shaft you have to recheck the virticle movement for backlash to the .001" , which is very important, or chatter will occure on horizontal cuts. You can slightly overcome chatter by loading the downward spindle & locking into position.
Hope this helps
Looks like you started a big project here.
G'day Rusty. I'll go step by step & see how we go
Tear. verb
pull (something) apart or to pieces with force.
teardown
1 of 2
noun
tear·down ˈter-ˌdau̇n
Synonyms of teardown
: the act or process of disassembling
Thanks for your comment
TEARDOWN not tare down
Thaks for your comment
So, what is its bare wait?
Weight of what, the lathe or RF 30 mill ?
The Mill without a Stand is about 300kilo's or about 660 lbs. That is a bare Mill without a vice etc
Ring cheustion😂
Its Bear weight after its Tare down. 🙂
@Mark Needham As far as Weight after teardown, I wouldn't know, I don't have scales to check that out. My mill is on cabinet stand which came with the mill as an assembly. To be honest unless I am going to move it around the weight is of no consequence to myself at this time
@@TedRoza Sorry 'bout that Ted. Check the spelling, I was having a joke/play with words. Bear/Bare and Tare/Tear. The world is not getting any better at spelling, Hey!.
210:52Ted, Of course to have the table "NOT MOVE", just nip up the 2 Way Screws., or partially tightened to LIMIT the SLOP.
G'day Mark. Thanks for your comments. To be safe, I thought it would be better to strip down the X & Y slides which is the pretty well the same as compound & cross slides on a lathe. You know step by step & check everything so that is what I am trying to do
@@TedRoza Yes. I do have to do mine also. Have a Ball Screw and rod to put in, and DRO. Nipping up is just a lazy way.
@Mark Needham I have a New DRO, just haven't had time to make the brackets & fittings.
You are up to your armpits in this one Ted. But it’s the right way to do it, clean it all down & check everything.
Sing out if you need a lift with anything.
Should be better than new once your done with it.
Thanks Ian .. just flexing a bit of muscle & a few pants ( breathing ) she's right ✅️ 😆 we will get there eventually 😀 👍🏻 😄
Flick the wrinkles out of it !
G'day Max I was hoping it would grow into a Bridgeport or similar 😆 🤣 😂