Happened to me in the field last season! Colorado Elk Season, went to confirm zero the night before. Tight bolt closure but not impossible, first shot seized the bolt and had to come off the mountain to get it unstuck. Went back with a different rifle. Peterson Brass, CA Rifle. Great advice here
Interesting. I've run into factory ammo that wouldn't even chamber and it was premium match ammo from a well known brand. Thankfully they took it back and paid me MSRP for it (which was about 30% more than I paid for it). I should mention this is a factory rifle without any kind of special chamber too.
Very good advice for factory loaded ammunition. For factory brass, I ALWAYS full length resize to -.001 to -.002" shoulder bump from a once fired case from the rifle I am loading for. I never assume factory brass is good to go. Great video!
I always check head space on new brass with a comparator, especially non SAAMI spec/wildcat cartridges. I've gotten brass that's a tad long and usually full length size the brass before I first fire it. The mouth of the case is usually not uniform either. If headspace is good, then I just run them through a mandrel die. I never just load new brass and go fire it without checking it. That would be stupid.
Just today I experienced the same thing with new Nosler 300WSM brass. Out of 50, half would not allow the bolt to close or even come close. I measured head space and those were all exactly 0.002 longer. I FL sized them without the button, then ran them over a turning mandrel twice each to uniform neck ID. Also compared the Nosler to my new 300WSM Norma brass. They are 10 grains heavier. I plan to load lighter weight Barnes TSX 150s in the Nosler brass. Tomorrow I'm testing OTW for 168 Barnes TTSX, 180 Nos ABs, 190 Nos ABLR, 210 Berger VLD hunting bullets. I just got the factory Tikka back from getting the throat lengthened to seat bullets out further, get a little more powder in the case - essentially cloning the PRC concept. Just need to switch out the bolt stop with a long action piece and I already have extra long action mags. COAL for the 168 TTSX is 3.091 (70 thousands off lands), and for the 180 ABs it's 3.114, about 25 thousandths off
I run new brass through a full reloading cycle, set the headspace correctly with a full length die. Usually even short brass gets squeezed up to proper headspace. I dont waste time checking if it will fit, just size it so it will.
@@quarterminutemagnums No Sir, Custom may be nice, but regular FL die is by far better then neck only or no size at all. I like your style and your rifle builds, I just can't subscribe to your brass sizing and clearance methods. These methods are rarely used for competition nowadays, because it's been tested over and over again to not be beneficial, and usually causes issues. Work hardening is a non issue if you have to throw your brass away at 3 or 4 firings because it no longer fits in your chambers.
@@quarterminutemagnums Tony Boyer isn't the only fella Winning, and what competition he is shooting isn't practical for the application your rifles are built for.
It's already not uniform, sizing it would make it more uniform. Yes running it thru a full reloading full length sizing process to set the headspace correctly would not only make the brass more uniform, it would eliminate this issue, as well as the need to check it. Short brass will lengthen, long brass will shorten.
@@quarterminutemagnums , Well maybe slightly more, but not enough to worry about, annealing negates most of it. You pointed out the only possible theoretical issue to full length sizing, Not full length sizing comes with a long list of known issues. Feeding issues, fit issues, non uniform issues, bolt click and many more, and all these things lead to accuracy and inconsistency issues.
...and I just loaded 50 new 6.5C in unfired brass. I also have some new 6.5C Lapua brass I'm going to do this test with in my Bergara HMR. With my new brass I often measure headspace and write it down. I do the same after first firing to see what has moved. So, with that 30 Nosler brass, are you going to bump the shoulders back and use it anyway?
Dear Sir - I put my shims in the bolt face and bumped them back with the chamber. I will use them for foulers and sighters. Don't try this at home with a factory rifle ! ! ! Thanks...............
Happened to me in the field last season! Colorado Elk Season, went to confirm zero the night before. Tight bolt closure but not impossible, first shot seized the bolt and had to come off the mountain to get it unstuck. Went back with a different rifle. Peterson Brass, CA Rifle. Great advice here
Dear Sir - thanks............
Awesome info
Interesting. I've run into factory ammo that wouldn't even chamber and it was premium match ammo from a well known brand. Thankfully they took it back and paid me MSRP for it (which was about 30% more than I paid for it). I should mention this is a factory rifle without any kind of special chamber too.
Dear Sir - I have witnessed the same thing with factory ammo. Sometimes "bad" lots make it out of the factory. Thanks....................
Very good advice for factory loaded ammunition. For factory brass, I ALWAYS full length resize to -.001 to -.002" shoulder bump from a once fired case from the rifle I am loading for. I never assume factory brass is good to go. Great video!
Dear Sir - appreciated.............................thanks.
Don't you wanna argue with this guy about how full length sizing is stupid.
Thank you. Great advice.
Glad it was helpful!
I always check head space on new brass with a comparator, especially non SAAMI spec/wildcat cartridges. I've gotten brass that's a tad long and usually full length size the brass before I first fire it. The mouth of the case is usually not uniform either. If headspace is good, then I just run them through a mandrel die. I never just load new brass and go fire it without checking it. That would be stupid.
Dear Sir - thanks.
Just today I experienced the same thing with new Nosler 300WSM brass. Out of 50, half would not allow the bolt to close or even come close. I measured head space and those were all exactly 0.002 longer. I FL sized them without the button, then ran them over a turning mandrel twice each to uniform neck ID. Also compared the Nosler to my new 300WSM Norma brass. They are 10 grains heavier. I plan to load lighter weight Barnes TSX 150s in the Nosler brass. Tomorrow I'm testing OTW for 168 Barnes TTSX, 180 Nos ABs, 190 Nos ABLR, 210 Berger VLD hunting bullets. I just got the factory Tikka back from getting the throat lengthened to seat bullets out further, get a little more powder in the case - essentially cloning the PRC concept. Just need to switch out the bolt stop with a long action piece and I already have extra long action mags. COAL for the 168 TTSX is 3.091 (70 thousands off lands), and for the 180 ABs it's 3.114, about 25 thousandths off
Dear Sir - Lapua please make .300 WSM brass !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks.
Another great, awesome advice and video, thank you very much Sr. Now, on side note, I will not hunt cape bufalo with a single shot rifle, hell no! 😅
Dear Sir - thank you.
I run new brass through a full reloading cycle, set the headspace correctly with a full length die. Usually even short brass gets squeezed up to proper headspace. I dont waste time checking if it will fit, just size it so it will.
Dear Sir - a custom FL-DIE ? ? ?
@@quarterminutemagnums No Sir, Custom may be nice, but regular FL die is by far better then neck only or no size at all. I like your style and your rifle builds, I just can't subscribe to your brass sizing and clearance methods. These methods are rarely used for competition nowadays, because it's been tested over and over again to not be beneficial, and usually causes issues. Work hardening is a non issue if you have to throw your brass away at 3 or 4 firings because it no longer fits in your chambers.
Dear Sir - tell that to Tony Boyer.........thanks.@@somedude5713
@@quarterminutemagnums Tony Boyer isn't the only fella Winning, and what competition he is shooting isn't practical for the application your rifles are built for.
What does "practical" mean? Thanks...........@@somedude5713
Beautiful rifle
Dear Sir - appreciated................thanks.
Would you run those through the press and shoulder bump, or keep them aside and figure out later?
Dear Sir - please just phone me.........Merry Christmas.
Wouldn’t that issue go away by running all your brass through the sizing process?
Dear Sir - you can bump the shoulders back - but it is better to start with uniform brass. Thanks.
It's already not uniform, sizing it would make it more uniform. Yes running it thru a full reloading full length sizing process to set the headspace correctly would not only make the brass more uniform, it would eliminate this issue, as well as the need to check it. Short brass will lengthen, long brass will shorten.
Dear Sir - unless you have a custom FL-DIE that matches your custom chamber, you are just work-hardening the brass. Thanks...@@somedude5713
@@quarterminutemagnums , Well maybe slightly more, but not enough to worry about, annealing negates most of it. You pointed out the only possible theoretical issue to full length sizing, Not full length sizing comes with a long list of known issues. Feeding issues, fit issues, non uniform issues, bolt click and many more, and all these things lead to accuracy and inconsistency issues.
Dear Sir - FL-sizing is fine if the die and chamber match. Thanks.............@@somedude5713
I'm curious what the outcome is for that Brux barrel (33XC)
Dear Sir - patience....................thanks.
...and I just loaded 50 new 6.5C in unfired brass. I also have some new 6.5C Lapua brass I'm going to do this test with in my Bergara HMR. With my new brass I often measure headspace and write it down. I do the same after first firing to see what has moved. So, with that 30 Nosler brass, are you going to bump the shoulders back and use it anyway?
Dear Sir - I put my shims in the bolt face and bumped them back with the chamber. I will use them for foulers and sighters. Don't try this at home with a factory rifle ! ! ! Thanks...............
This is why I quit buying Nosler Brass.
Dear Sir - I have actually had good luck with 28 Nosler and 30 Nosler brass. Some LOTS are just not as good as others. Thanks........