If you don't want to spray real clear coat, you can always just use a Tamiya lacquer spray can and get way, way better results than this after all that work you put in. First spray a coat of Tamiya fine white primer, then sand it with a 2000 grit micro mesh sanding sponge, wet. Allow it to dry for 15min and spray it with the Tamiya TS-8 lacquer spray can. Do two light coats with the spray can then a nice medium coat and just stop. You're done, that's your paint job. It will look 1000x better than what's on display in this video.
Oh man. Wish I'd found this vid a week ago. Would have saved me oh I don't know a whole weeks worth of work. My dumb self kept wondering why my wet sanding was ruining my work. You're a life saver. I was about ready to give us on Pledge. Might low key be addicted to the smell while airbrushing. Thanks.
19:55 - WADR: The car looks better than it did when you started, but the imperfections on the hood are clearly not gone, even after the work you put into it. I wonder how it would've looked if you'd skipped the sanding and went straight to the polishing. I'm going to experiment with a junker body from my boneyard. Thanks for the video.
I was successful 1 time sanding future to a high shine. It was an experiment. Though my model looked good, about 2 years after I coated it with Future, I decided to wet sand it starting with 4000 grit and worked my way up to 12K, then used the Novus 321 system. Worked great. I think it worked flawlessly because after 2 years, it wasn't just dry it was 100% cured.
I always rub the Tamiya compounds onto the model with a fingertip, then when the compound has almost completely disappeared, I buff it with a fine polishing cloth (also Tamiya, I think, but I've had it for so long I can't remember). I prefer using a lacquer gloss coat like Mr Color GX 100 or Alclad super gloss. They cure fast and are extremely hard wearing.
So you can never mop your floor with this stuff on it then? 🤔 I seen someone use a product called "Quick Shine" and it looked really good...its cloudy out of the bottle but dries clear
My experience with Future is that it's not necessary to spray it on. I just poor it all over my models straight from the bottle. If it pools anywhere, just touch the pooling area with the edge of a paper towel and sucks it right up. Turns out flawless.
It would serve u well to start with a lower grit of sandpaper say a 3000 or lower based on the imperfection your dealing with and work your way up to 12k.
I dont think water reactivates future floor finish. It is floor finish after all, and people have to mop their floors with water. Windex and ammonia on the other hand will strip it off. Which is kind of cool because if you dont like how the finish came out, you can rub it off with windex and redo it without harming the paint.
Another great video although, seems like a lot of work. I have used this stuff a little bit (mainly on hardhats), for people at work but never really tried polishing, except with a speed wax from lucas oils (automotive quick detail for in between waxing). Anyways i use to do tile floors for Menards (stripping, waxing and polishing). The wax used was amonia based by Johnson Wax Professional and used a mop applicator and after cleaning (scrubbing) each night we polished with a polishing pad with a floor buffer (burnisher). That being said, i wonder if maybe using ur polishing pads u have for ur rotary tool to polish with no compounds. I know we used to polish the floors at speeds of like 2500 to 3000 rpms (if i remember correctly). I dont know how the pledge would hold up to that kind of polishing, since its for the home. That being said i know stores carry commercial stuff but not sure if its amonia based (probably not good for airbrush if it contains ammonia) but hold up well to everyday buffing. So maybe i thought u or anyone could try a dry buff method. It pretty much uses heat to melt the wax and level back out to get out scratches, from everyday foot traffic and shopping carts. Anyways great video but thought id share my input on the floor wax and what might work easier. Also when i used to strip old wax and relay a fresh 4 coats id buff after the 4th coat and over the course of 4 days (usually) id get about 8 to 10 coats of wax on the floor. If u have any questions about floor wax, then let me know. Im pretty knowledgable as i did it for 8years at my last job. Keep posting videos, i love watching.
The end result wasn't something I was hoping to see. Could it be due to using pledge instead of actual clear coat? I am curious why did you use the pledge?
From what I've heard, "Pledge Revive It / Future" was no longer manufactured as of Jan 2022. What was on the shelves was the last of it. If it's been re-branded, I would love to know what it is.
So, you'll use a different buffing wheel for each grade of compound to stop cross contamination ? - if you didn't, within a sort time, you'd end up with all the grit pastes on the one buffing wheel at the same time.
Pledge floor care is dry in 24 hours in hot climate, in cold climate I would give it 3 days. However I usually like to give it more than one day before I start to work on it.
@@ScaleModellingVideos What did you use for the original red? I agree with Jeff, but we are all here to improve our modelling skills so it's all good. I wish I knew that you could polish Pledge Floor Gloss to a higher shine. I did a '70 Firebird for my nephew and I was really happy with the paint but less happy with the multiple coats of Pledge. I mistakenly thought that it was quite glossy, but in reality, it's not.
If you don't want to spray real clear coat, you can always just use a Tamiya lacquer spray can and get way, way better results than this after all that work you put in. First spray a coat of Tamiya fine white primer, then sand it with a 2000 grit micro mesh sanding sponge, wet. Allow it to dry for 15min and spray it with the Tamiya TS-8 lacquer spray can. Do two light coats with the spray can then a nice medium coat and just stop. You're done, that's your paint job. It will look 1000x better than what's on display in this video.
I have to agree. Tamiya’s clear lacquer is a marvelous product.
Oh man. Wish I'd found this vid a week ago.
Would have saved me oh I don't know a whole weeks worth of work.
My dumb self kept wondering why my wet sanding was ruining my work.
You're a life saver. I was about ready to give us on Pledge. Might low key be addicted to the smell while airbrushing. Thanks.
No worries mate. Appreciate the feedback, really helps me keep makong videos knowing I helped someone.
19:55 - WADR: The car looks better than it did when you started, but the imperfections on the hood are clearly not gone, even after the work you put into it. I wonder how it would've looked if you'd skipped the sanding and went straight to the polishing. I'm going to experiment with a junker body from my boneyard. Thanks for the video.
I just rub them down with a used dryer sheet. You get a good shine and it only takes a minute.
I was successful 1 time sanding future to a high shine. It was an experiment. Though my model looked good, about 2 years after I coated it with Future, I decided to wet sand it starting with 4000 grit and worked my way up to 12K, then used the Novus 321 system. Worked great. I think it worked flawlessly because after 2 years, it wasn't just dry it was 100% cured.
Wet sanded?...i think not.
I always rub the Tamiya compounds onto the model with a fingertip, then when the compound has almost completely disappeared, I buff it with a fine polishing cloth (also Tamiya, I think, but I've had it for so long I can't remember). I prefer using a lacquer gloss coat like Mr Color GX 100 or Alclad super gloss. They cure fast and are extremely hard wearing.
So you can never mop your floor with this stuff on it then? 🤔 I seen someone use a product called "Quick Shine" and it looked really good...its cloudy out of the bottle but dries clear
My experience with Future is that it's not necessary to spray it on. I just poor it all over my models straight from the bottle. If it pools anywhere, just touch the pooling area with the edge of a paper towel and sucks it right up. Turns out flawless.
It would serve u well to start with a lower grit of sandpaper say a 3000 or lower based on the imperfection your dealing with and work your way up to 12k.
I dont think water reactivates future floor finish. It is floor finish after all, and people have to mop their floors with water. Windex and ammonia on the other hand will strip it off. Which is kind of cool because if you dont like how the finish came out, you can rub it off with windex and redo it without harming the paint.
In Portugal it is called 'Pronto'. Never found that Floor Care Finish product anywhere tough.
I didn't know that thanks for the info
Awesome tutorial brother!
Thanks mate
@@ScaleModellingVideos your welcome brother!
Another great video although, seems like a lot of work. I have used this stuff a little bit (mainly on hardhats), for people at work but never really tried polishing, except with a speed wax from lucas oils (automotive quick detail for in between waxing). Anyways i use to do tile floors for Menards (stripping, waxing and polishing). The wax used was amonia based by Johnson Wax Professional and used a mop applicator and after cleaning (scrubbing) each night we polished with a polishing pad with a floor buffer (burnisher). That being said, i wonder if maybe using ur polishing pads u have for ur rotary tool to polish with no compounds. I know we used to polish the floors at speeds of like 2500 to 3000 rpms (if i remember correctly). I dont know how the pledge would hold up to that kind of polishing, since its for the home. That being said i know stores carry commercial stuff but not sure if its amonia based (probably not good for airbrush if it contains ammonia) but hold up well to everyday buffing. So maybe i thought u or anyone could try a dry buff method. It pretty much uses heat to melt the wax and level back out to get out scratches, from everyday foot traffic and shopping carts. Anyways great video but thought id share my input on the floor wax and what might work easier. Also when i used to strip old wax and relay a fresh 4 coats id buff after the 4th coat and over the course of 4 days (usually) id get about 8 to 10 coats of wax on the floor. If u have any questions about floor wax, then let me know. Im pretty knowledgable as i did it for 8years at my last job. Keep posting videos, i love watching.
was the model brush-painted?
The end result wasn't something I was hoping to see. Could it be due to using pledge instead of actual clear coat? I am curious why did you use the pledge?
Definitely a quick glance from about 10' away ( and with eyes squinting at that ), makes it look good
From what I've heard, "Pledge Revive It / Future" was no longer manufactured as of Jan 2022. What was on the shelves was the last of it. If it's been re-branded, I would love to know what it is.
Interesting I did not know that. I guess I should buy it if I find it
Did you find out yet?
@@GrandNational66 A video popped up on my feed to try Holloway Quick Shine. I haven't tried it yet, but they thought it was a good replacement
Interesting video
Thanks mate.
Nice video!!!!!!!
Thankyou
Nice!- I like it
Thanks mate
How many coats of Pledge did you lay down? Drying time between coats?
Yeah, thats what I want to know
can you use this on a canvas painting also?
I have no idea mate.
Do you know where to get this in Australia - or do you need to order from the US?
I ordered it off ebay. It is now called Pledge Revive it
So, you'll use a different buffing wheel for each grade of compound to stop cross contamination ? - if you didn't, within a sort time, you'd end up with all the grit pastes on the one buffing wheel at the same time.
I think I did use a different wheel. Thanks for the tip though. Appreciate it.
How long is the dry time???
Pledge floor care is dry in 24 hours in hot climate, in cold climate I would give it 3 days. However I usually like to give it more than one day before I start to work on it.
What does it look before all this sanding and polishing?
Usually bumpy and uneven, sometimes it has an orange peel look to it as well
Wait, what? Isn't the polish a liquid? I burned through mine doing that,,,,
Nice video and I plan to try it. One suggestion though for future videos. Please stop saying “Kay”
I try so hard not to, it is a habit I cannot seem to shake
Good video of your technique, BUT the continual use of you saying ‘OK’ is annoying to the point of spoiling it‼️
Many people use filler words when talking; like me. I know I say okay, righto and aaa alot in between sentences.
@@ScaleModellingVideos OK !
OK
Needed a better paint job to begin with...Sorry J.M.O
I agree, im just an average modeller, trying to get better everytime. But still sharing the skills I have acquired.
@@ScaleModellingVideos What did you use for the original red? I agree with Jeff, but we are all here to improve our modelling skills so it's all good. I wish I knew that you could polish Pledge Floor Gloss to a higher shine. I did a '70 Firebird for my nephew and I was really happy with the paint but less happy with the multiple coats of Pledge. I mistakenly thought that it was quite glossy, but in reality, it's not.
WTF?
Okay! I just watched the video Okay! Okay! I'm going to go watch another video now Okay! Okay! Good buy people. Okay!