Yes, for my layout I would always buy DCC fitted if possible. Problem is some of the little n-gauge locos (08 shunters etc) don't come as DCC ready or DCC fitted so you have to crack them open (or send them off to a professional!)
Simon, I am sitting here waiting for the postman to deliver my first N gauge train set. I have been watching your videos for several months and you are an inspiration to me. I plan to make a train layout very simular to your layout. I purchased a Minitrix starter set to begin with. I want to congratulate you on your excellent video camera work and also say that your videos are very informative. You must be a teacher in your other life. Thanks so much. Gary George
Thanks for the kind words Gary, good luck with the layout, I'm sure you'll enjoy creating it. I remember waiting for the postie to deliver my first train set, the Graham Farish Merseyside Express. I was like a kid at Christmas!
Its an Antex XS25, its really easy to change the tips (they just pull off) so you can use a nice small tip for fiddly soldering, and I think the advice is that a 25 watt iron is powerful enough for delicate model railway components but not so powerful it will fry everything! I just got some scrap bits of wire and had a few practice goes when I learned (which was only about 6 months ago!)
I sometimes think that apart from the enjoyment when it works as against the frustration when it does not, it could be better buying ready fitted dcc, glad you sorted the problem , as for stopping and reversing , yes supposed to let it stop before reversing the control ..
Awesome vid very useful iwill have the option buying old dc locos and chipping them now.btw this is the first vid I,ve seen which gives a true impression of just how small N gauge locos are.They often are hard to tell from oo gauge due to camera angle, etc
Not sure what solder you are using, if it is the lead free stuff then dump it and buy some 60/40 lead tin solder. I have been soldering for over 60 years and still cannot get good joints with the lead free stuff, whoever introduced this obviously never did any soldering. Aerospace and military won't use it either due to the poor and unreliable joints it makes.
Soooooo.. 6 years later: black and red are cut and soldered to new board. Red and black are then grey and orange which are then soldered to the motor??
@@DIYD Red is the power pick up wire from the right (engineer's) side. Black is the power pick up wire from the left side. Orange is the wire that goes to the positive side of the motor, the gray wire goes to the negative side. Most often, the top terminal of the motor is positive, so it gets the orange wire. If the terminals are on the left and right side of the motor instead of top and bottom, the right side terminal will be positive. Just think of it red and orange are positive, black and gray are negative. If the orange and gray wires get reversed, no damage will be done to the decoder, it's just that the locomotive will run backwards. Hope this helps!
Do you think this might be possible with locos dating back to the late 1970's bearing in mind that my only soldering experience is with copper plumbing with a blow torch....??? Do you think this method might be a tad extreme?
Nice work, i think the lenz chips are one of the best vaule- Quality i have fitted many of these on my locos they are far better then say bachmann chips...jim
56scaniaboy I think people have done it with the newer version of the Farish 08, not sure about the old one though. I think it will be tricky to fit the wires and decoder in...if I ever get one I'll do a video!
Yes, for my layout I would always buy DCC fitted if possible. Problem is some of the little n-gauge locos (08 shunters etc) don't come as DCC ready or DCC fitted so you have to crack them open (or send them off to a professional!)
Excellent. Now I'm confident I will be able to convert Dad's old locos. Thanks for the useful tutorial.
Simon, I am sitting here waiting for the postman to deliver my first N gauge train set. I have been watching your videos for several months and you are an inspiration to me. I plan to make a train layout very simular to your layout. I purchased a Minitrix starter set to begin with. I want to congratulate you on your excellent video camera work and also say that your videos are very informative. You must be a teacher in your other life. Thanks so much. Gary George
Thanks for the kind words Gary, good luck with the layout, I'm sure you'll enjoy creating it. I remember waiting for the postie to deliver my first train set, the Graham Farish Merseyside Express. I was like a kid at Christmas!
Its an Antex XS25, its really easy to change the tips (they just pull off) so you can use a nice small tip for fiddly soldering, and I think the advice is that a 25 watt iron is powerful enough for delicate model railway components but not so powerful it will fry everything!
I just got some scrap bits of wire and had a few practice goes when I learned (which was only about 6 months ago!)
Thanks for taking the time to reply Simon. I will look out for that model of soldering iron, I will need one soon.
I sometimes think that apart from the enjoyment when it works as against the frustration when it does not, it could be better buying ready fitted dcc, glad you sorted the problem , as for stopping and reversing , yes supposed to let it stop before reversing the control ..
Have to do this with an N gauge 03 shunter..... Oh joy!
No doubt this video will be playing in the back ground when I find the courage to do it
Awesome vid very useful
iwill have the option buying old dc locos and chipping them now.btw this is the first vid I,ve seen which gives a true impression of just how small N gauge locos are.They often are hard to tell from oo gauge due to camera angle, etc
Yep, impressed with the Lenz chip, think I will stick with them / replace the Bachman ones if/when they blow up :)
Superb vid, I have never used a soldering iron in my life, can you tell me what model you are using and why you chose it?
Very helpful vid, liked the blackbirds too!
Should the resister not be removed when fitting a DCC chip?
Is there something wrong with the sound, I can hardly hear anything?
Thanks, good luck converting your Dads locos!
Thanks, that sounds like it s going to need some precision soldering, good luck!
Thanks Simon. How easy would it be to rename this from DDC to DCC?
Done ✅ ... can't believe I didn't spot that typo in the 8 years the video has been on TH-cam! Thanks for letting me know 👍
Simon, do you know how like if the lead and trailing cars have the forward and reverse light and if all the cars are lit when on how to dcc chip those
It was my first attempt at any "major surgery" so yes it was a but nerve-wracking!
Just isolate the motor completely from the chassis and contacts other than the chip power. It will work dcc.
I'll have a look for that iron, I've just started N gauge modeling, the starter kit arrived this morning :)
Not sure what solder you are using, if it is the lead free stuff then dump it and buy some 60/40 lead tin solder. I have been soldering for over 60 years and still cannot get good joints with the lead free stuff, whoever introduced this obviously never did any soldering. Aerospace and military won't use it either due to the poor and unreliable joints it makes.
Why not slide the heat shrink on the very long board wires 😊
Soooooo.. 6 years later: black and red are cut and soldered to new board. Red and black are then grey and orange which are then soldered to the motor??
And then grey becomes positive and grey is ground?
@@DIYD Red is the power pick up wire from the right (engineer's) side. Black is the power pick up wire from the left side. Orange is the wire that goes to the positive side of the motor, the gray wire goes to the negative side. Most often, the top terminal of the motor is positive, so it gets the orange wire. If the terminals are on the left and right side of the motor instead of top and bottom, the right side terminal will be positive. Just think of it red and orange are positive, black and gray are negative. If the orange and gray wires get reversed, no damage will be done to the decoder, it's just that the locomotive will run backwards. Hope this helps!
One of the better tutorials
Is it possible to convert AC to DCC like this?
Do you think this might be possible with locos dating back to the late 1970's bearing in mind that my only soldering experience is with copper plumbing with a blow torch....??? Do you think this method might be a tad extreme?
Should be possible, the principle is the same, not sure about the blow torch though! :-)
Is this an ‘N’ gauge loco? Also, I have a OO steam loco That, on the box, it says “DCC incompatible” can I do the same with my loco?
Nice work, i think the lenz chips are one of the best vaule- Quality i have fitted many of these on my locos they are far better then say bachmann chips...jim
I bet it was a gut twisting operation :)
Thanks for that video explained things well.
do you think its possible to do this with a graham farish class08 shunter?
56scaniaboy I think people have done it with the newer version of the Farish 08, not sure about the old one though. I think it will be tricky to fit the wires and decoder in...if I ever get one I'll do a video!
ok thanks can i ask if you get any problems with your layout being in a shed?
56scaniaboy No, not had any issues. It did get very hot in the sun before I put the insulation in but its a lot better now.
Very informative, thank you.
Thanks, yes it was worth it in the end!
Nice video Simon good explanation :-)
Very good
Thanks
Thanks.
Video volume sucks, cant hear it
It's a pain in the ass....but good job. :{)