Followed your tutorial video and installed a decoder successfully into my BR blue version.. I took a different approach to finding a space for the decoder as the one I used was a Digitrax DZ 125 and very tiny decoder and fitted into the cab, I drilled out the metal cab floor and filed to shape..and it “ just “ fitted. Tried other locations, but felt I did not want it on top of the Motor, for heat reasons, or anywhere near the metal body… Works great…thanks…
My Class 08 arrived today and was going to wait and see how you did the conversion... And here it is! Alot easier than I thought it might be, but still a fiddly job as expected. Seen a couple of videos on TH-cam were people have even fitted sound to these!?! I'll be happy with DCC for now I think! Great how2 Simon and will be using this as a guide when I convert mine! Thanks, Pete.
Thanks for the video Simon, used it recently and found it easy to follow. I ended up cutting a hole in the bottom of the cab to fit the decoder as it was too tight to put it down the side
Hey Simon - just wanted to thank you again because, based on your excellent video and comments on the excellent N Gauge forum, I did the very same myself! It's the first conversion I've ever done and... it's alive I tell you - ALIVE! I've no soldering skills and know next to nothing about electronics, but armed with your video - I've done it and it runs like a treat! For reference, I converted the Class 08 which comes with the Farish 'Steel Worker' train set as it has the wasp stripes I wanted. A few places seem to be selling this separate from the train set and that's how I got mine. Following tips here and on the N Gauge forum, I used Kapton tape, which also has the virtue of being very, very thin. I put the Lenz Silver Mini chip on top of the motor as you did yourself. The only other thing I did differently was to cut off the (original Farish) black wire at both ends instead of unsoldering it as any reduction in the use of the soldering iron is something I value greatly! Thanks again so much for taking the time to make this and your other videos. I want to draw attention here to their quality for as we all know - they are a very long way ahead of so many other videos here on TH-cam, which although always cheerfully welcomed, often contain very shaky camera work and little or no editing. Top marks Simon for cinematography and editing! So... which one are ya gonna chip next...? The world holds its breath... Well... the N Gauge world at least... :-) Cheers - Jeff
+FSFlyingSchool Excellent work on the conversion, glad it worked and that the video helped! How is the low speed running? I got a bit obsessed with trying to improve it, as I wasn't happy with the judder at the 1st couple of speed steps. To cut a long story short setting CV 50 ('motor type') on the lenz silver mini made a huge difference. CV50 defaults to 0, but I found setting it to 1, 2 or 5 made it much smoother. I can't remember which value I ended up using but I was surprised how much difference it made.
+Simons Shed Hey Simon! It already looks pretty smooth to me, but I will of course try out your settings for CV50 - sounds fascinating. DCC settings are such an interesting field to explore - well - for a railway modeler anyway. :-) As the loco has only just left the 'works' I am still running it in - but one thing I have noticed, which may of course be true of any 0-6-0 or smaller, is that it is a lot more sensitive to imperfection in the track than my other locos. It appears to be getting better as the running in progresses - presumably things are getting better lubed and so there is more force for a given speed. Anyway - it's a good way for me to be reminded of imperfect joins etc before final ballasting, etc. I'll finish running in and then try out CV50 and report back! Cheers - Jeff
You should pre-tin the wires before soldering - makes a neater joint with less risk of wires becoming detached - other than that, a very entertaining video
Thanks for video, inspired me to buy a second hand 08 from Hattons and have ago .All went really well (my first time at anything like this ) Drilled hole through and put silver mini chip in cab after wrapping it in insulation tape found hint on another site for class 08 to say set cv 50 to 4 and cv113 to 5 this really smoothed out the slow running thanks again
Perfect video Simon thank you. I almost gave up on my layout as daunted by converting my 08 and 04. Will now get the decoders ordered. Many thanks. When I upload my videos after they are converted I wont be making a video how I did it but if OK with you will add a link to this video
I've just switched to N gauge and was put off getting an 08 as they're marked DCC incompatible - I think I'll be off down the shops having seen your video to get one, many thanks for the how to :)
Nice video. Fiddly is right! Soooooo very small! Thanks. I have to recommend 2 things for decoder installation that I find invaluable. 1) Kapton tape. No sticky mess like you get with other tape. 2) A bottle of liquid wire insulation.
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this, but you may find it easier to tin the bare wires first before you solder to the conections, just a thought. BTW nice videos.
+Peter Huddleston Thanks, yes good idea to tin the wires first, would have made it easier, it was so fiddly getting the wires in the right place and in-shot on the video!
You should try a TCS Z2 decoder. They are smaller than the lenz decoder, and it also has shrink tubing around it to prevent shorting. Also liquid insulation tape will be better for the solder tabs.
Simon, very helpful many thanks. Placement of the chip is, as you say, difficult and putting it near the motor risks excessive heat, so I drilled a hole in the rear of the main body and fed the wires through to the motor. The chip sits in the cab comfortably and has a bit of air around it. You still need a very small chip though - Lenz Silver Mini is a good solution. I have also found that the best screwdriver for those small screws is one made for disassembling mobile 'phones. They are 000 size and magnetic, but have a nice long thin blade. Very cheap on eBay. Thanks again for all your good advice. Michael
Thanks Michael, will have to have a look on ebay, not sure what size bit I had, 0 or 00, but it wasn't quite small enough for the tiny screws on the class 08!
Simon what program r u using on your tablet and have you utilized Kapton tape to cover your decoder? it's very thin n works well instead of your black tape.
Hi Simon, Best video explanation of a DCC fitting I have witnessed. Are you planning any more as I have a few I need to sort. This will be really helpful when I come to do my Class 08. Many thanks, Dennis.
Thanks. It depends what locos I buy for the layout, there may be more if they are non-DCC ready locos but they mostly come with DCC sockets now, a lot easier than this conversion!
This video is most excellent, I've been looking everywhere for a decent how-to guide for this, and yours is just the job. I have an 08 Schenker, which I'm assuming is more or less exactly the same as the one you're using, apart from the paint job? Also, can you please let me know what decoder you used? I think I heard DCX75? Many thanks! John
Thanks John, was a fiddly job! Yours should be the same, yes. There is an old Farish class 08 which is different, but all the ones made since 2011 ish are the same as mine inside. The decoder I used was a Lenz silver mini, a tight fit, but the CT Electronik DCX75 is a bit smaller I think.
Superb workmanship explained in another excellent video. Many thanks for this Simon. I think I might just have the courage to attempt the DCC conversion myself. One last thing - after a little running, can you let us all know how the Class 08 performs now that it is chipped? I've not heard anything bad but would like your comments which will serve as a final analysis of that particular loco with that particular chip. Oh - and another thing - one chap at least on TH-cam pointed out that on this specific model the coupling rod assembly on the sides of the loco (joining the wheels together) makes the overall loco a little broader in the beam than one might imagine. No idea if this is 'in scale', but he did warn that if you have really tight clearances, as for example with a platform edge, there could be... issues... What is your own experience? Cheers! Jeff
Thanks Jeff, I'll have to do a bit of an update on it as part of a future video. Seems smooth so far, although the first few speed settings it does judder slightly, maybe I'm trying to get it to move too slowly, as dcc will be cutting the power off then fully on X times per second. It may also be that the track voltage it too high which wouldn't help. Width seems fine on Bodenham woods, and the platform clearance is pretty tight.
+Simons Shed Many thanks for your reply Simon - feedback from actual end users is always useful and much appreciated. I hope you have many years of relaxing shunting with this little wonder - I can't wait to get mine and have a bash at the conversion! Hopefully as time goes by we will see more videos of conversions - you can't beat a video for a DIY project like this. Cheers! Jeff
One thing I did was to put the decoder out of the back of the 08 and fit it inside a (now permanently attached) goods wagon - I've seen photos of 08s running around with wagons with tools/chains etc in back in the day... also means I can remove the decoder if necessary as I didn't have to cut the wires down perilously short - its just a thought everyone....I have to say Simon's fix is very neat - and they do run very well on the Lenz decoders....
Glad I found this little gem of a video, just about to try doing this myself, by far the best video and guide which I have found. Thanks.. Hmmm, just taken my Class 08 BR Green shunter apart and it is nothing like the inside of your one :( Do you know if there was there an older model that was possibly incompatible, so disappointed after buying it and can't use it.
+Neil Braithwaite yes, there is an old Graham Farish model I think. It was updated a few years ago, but I'm not sure how you DCC the old version unfortunately.
Good video looks great! Have been waiting to see your DCC conversation, glad it went well. I will now be getting one to convert, I was looking at using the Gauge Master DCC22 decoder chip had you considered that chip for size? I used the DCC23 plugin chip when I converted my Pannier Tank 5764 as it was very small. I had seen this loco when I was a member and able to travel to the SVR. I am enjoying following your experiences with your Shed Valley Railway project. Best wishes form Keith.
Great video Simon, I have being waiting to see how you get on as I plan to get a Farish 08 later this year. can you use a different back ground music (reminds me of 1980's on night shift with the radio on, trying to stay awake) sorry
Thanks, it was a fiddly job but glad I got her running again! Hard to find music everyone likes, I just go through the TH-cam free music library and find one I like that's the same length as the clip.
Theres more space inside this than there is in the huge farish class70, should be easy enough to fit sound to this. your lead lengths a bit long homie, you only need 1mm tinned
This video is most excellent, I've been looking everywhere for a decent how-to guide for this, and yours is just the job. I have an 08 Schenker, which I'm assuming is more or less exactly the same as the one you're using, apart from the paint job? Also, can you please let me know what decoder you used? I think I heard DCX75? Many thanks! John
Followed your tutorial video and installed a decoder successfully into my BR blue version..
I took a different approach to finding a space for the decoder as the one I used was a Digitrax DZ 125 and very tiny decoder and fitted into the cab, I drilled out the metal cab floor and filed to shape..and it “ just “ fitted.
Tried other locations, but felt I did not want it on top of the Motor, for heat reasons, or anywhere near the metal body…
Works great…thanks…
My Class 08 arrived today and was going to wait and see how you did the conversion... And here it is! Alot easier than I thought it might be, but still a fiddly job as expected.
Seen a couple of videos on TH-cam were people have even fitted sound to these!?!
I'll be happy with DCC for now I think!
Great how2 Simon and will be using this as a guide when I convert mine!
Thanks,
Pete.
Thanks Pete, perfect timing! It was fiddly, especially making sure everything was in-shot for the video. Good luck with your conversion.
Great how to Simon!!! Thanks for sharing mate!!!!
Thanks for the video Simon, used it recently and found it easy to follow. I ended up cutting a hole in the bottom of the cab to fit the decoder as it was too tight to put it down the side
Hey Simon - just wanted to thank you again because, based on your excellent video and comments on the excellent N Gauge forum, I did the very same myself! It's the first conversion I've ever done and... it's alive I tell you - ALIVE!
I've no soldering skills and know next to nothing about electronics, but armed with your video - I've done it and it runs like a treat! For reference, I converted the Class 08 which comes with the Farish 'Steel Worker' train set as it has the wasp stripes I wanted. A few places seem to be selling this separate from the train set and that's how I got mine.
Following tips here and on the N Gauge forum, I used Kapton tape, which also has the virtue of being very, very thin. I put the Lenz Silver Mini chip on top of the motor as you did yourself.
The only other thing I did differently was to cut off the (original Farish) black wire at both ends instead of unsoldering it as any reduction in the use of the soldering iron is something I value greatly!
Thanks again so much for taking the time to make this and your other videos.
I want to draw attention here to their quality for as we all know - they are a very long way ahead of so many other videos here on TH-cam, which although always cheerfully welcomed, often contain very shaky camera work and little or no editing. Top marks Simon for cinematography and editing!
So... which one are ya gonna chip next...? The world holds its breath...
Well... the N Gauge world at least... :-)
Cheers -
Jeff
+FSFlyingSchool Excellent work on the conversion, glad it worked and that the video helped! How is the low speed running? I got a bit obsessed with trying to improve it, as I wasn't happy with the judder at the 1st couple of speed steps. To cut a long story short setting CV 50 ('motor type') on the lenz silver mini made a huge difference. CV50 defaults to 0, but I found setting it to 1, 2 or 5 made it much smoother. I can't remember which value I ended up using but I was surprised how much difference it made.
+Simons Shed Hey Simon! It already looks pretty smooth to me, but I will of course try out your settings for CV50 - sounds fascinating. DCC settings are such an interesting field to explore - well - for a railway modeler anyway. :-)
As the loco has only just left the 'works' I am still running it in - but one thing I have noticed, which may of course be true of any 0-6-0 or smaller, is that it is a lot more sensitive to imperfection in the track than my other locos. It appears to be getting better as the running in progresses - presumably things are getting better lubed and so there is more force for a given speed. Anyway - it's a good way for me to be reminded of imperfect joins etc before final ballasting, etc.
I'll finish running in and then try out CV50 and report back!
Cheers -
Jeff
May I suggest you tin the wires before soldering
Nice result Simon and with this inspiration I too feel I need to start converting my DC loco’s over to DCC.
Thanks George, it was the trickiest conversion I've done, but pleased with the result.
You should pre-tin the wires before soldering - makes a neater joint with less risk of wires becoming detached - other than that, a very entertaining video
Fantastic video. Used this as a guide for fitting a chip in a farish class 14
Thanks for video, inspired me to buy a second hand 08 from Hattons and have ago .All went really well (my first time at anything like this )
Drilled hole through and put silver mini chip in cab after wrapping it in insulation tape
found hint on another site for class 08 to say set cv 50 to 4 and cv113 to 5 this really smoothed out the slow running
thanks again
Glad it went well, it was a tricky operation especially trying to get it all on camera!
Superb tutorial video. A must watch for all new to DCC.
Perfect video Simon thank you. I almost gave up on my layout as daunted by converting my 08 and 04. Will now get the decoders ordered. Many thanks. When I upload my videos after they are converted I wont be making a video how I did it but if OK with you will add a link to this video
Glad it helped, yes sharing / linking to the video is always welcome 👍
Very well explained, thank you 🙏
Thanks Simon, excellent video on how get the 08 converted
Well done Simon, that's a bit too minute for my clumsy fingers. I must say again I really like your DCC system. Nice job mate.
Thanks Stuart, it was a fiddly job, especially trying to get it all on camera! Really pleased with the z21, it's a joy to use.
I've just switched to N gauge and was put off getting an 08 as they're marked DCC incompatible - I think I'll be off down the shops having seen your video to get one, many thanks for the how to :)
Thanks. May have been the really old version of the 08 was incompatible , not sure, but the current one that was released a few years ago is fine .
Great video Simon. I would not even think about trying it especially with my huge fingers. Steve
Thanks Steve, it was fiddly. That's about the limit of my skills at the moment!
excellent video and very informative, not for the faint hearted though, i admire your nerve with a new loco as well!
Thanks, was quite a fiddly job, just relieved it ran at the end!
Nice video. Fiddly is right! Soooooo very small! Thanks. I have to recommend 2 things for decoder installation that I find invaluable. 1) Kapton tape. No sticky mess like you get with other tape. 2) A bottle of liquid wire insulation.
Thanks for the tips, I'll have to get some!
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this, but you may find it easier to tin the bare wires first before you solder to the conections, just a thought. BTW nice videos.
+Peter Huddleston Thanks, yes good idea to tin the wires first, would have made it easier, it was so fiddly getting the wires in the right place and in-shot on the video!
I have a couple of Farish steam loco's to convert so this will be useful. Nice screwdriver, wish I had one. Cheers
+Gary Wye I have one of these screwdrivers and they only cost £1.00 from poundland.
Will have a look. Doesn't look a £1 screwdriver. Thanks
Thanks. Not sure where that screwdriver came from, I've had it for years!
You should try a TCS Z2 decoder. They are smaller than the lenz decoder, and it also has shrink tubing around it to prevent shorting. Also liquid insulation tape will be better for the solder tabs.
Will have to get some liquid insulation, not heard of it before. I'll check out that decoder too!
What control do you use ?
Simon, very helpful many thanks. Placement of the chip is, as you say, difficult and putting it near the motor risks excessive heat, so I drilled a hole in the rear of the main body and fed the wires through to the motor. The chip sits in the cab comfortably and has a bit of air around it. You still need a very small chip though - Lenz Silver Mini is a good solution. I have also found that the best screwdriver for those small screws is one made for disassembling mobile 'phones. They are 000 size and magnetic, but have a nice long thin blade. Very cheap on eBay. Thanks again for all your good advice. Michael
Thanks Michael, will have to have a look on ebay, not sure what size bit I had, 0 or 00, but it wasn't quite small enough for the tiny screws on the class 08!
Simon what program r u using on your tablet and have you utilized Kapton tape to cover your decoder? it's very thin n works well instead of your black tape.
+Pedro Pons thanks for the tip 👍🏼its the Z21 app that controls my trains via the roco Z21 box
You refer to a magnetic screwdriver in your video. I know I can magnetise my own but where did you get yours from?
Hi Simon,
Best video explanation of a DCC fitting I have witnessed. Are you planning any more as I have a few I need to sort. This will be really helpful when I come to do my Class 08. Many thanks, Dennis.
Thanks. It depends what locos I buy for the layout, there may be more if they are non-DCC ready locos but they mostly come with DCC sockets now, a lot easier than this conversion!
This video is most excellent, I've been looking everywhere for a decent how-to guide for this, and yours is just the job. I have an 08 Schenker, which I'm assuming is more or less exactly the same as the one you're using, apart from the paint job? Also, can you please let me know what decoder you used? I think I heard DCX75? Many thanks! John
Thanks John, was a fiddly job! Yours should be the same, yes. There is an old Farish class 08 which is different, but all the ones made since 2011 ish are the same as mine inside. The decoder I used was a Lenz silver mini, a tight fit, but the CT Electronik DCX75 is a bit smaller I think.
Superb workmanship explained in another excellent video. Many thanks for this Simon. I think I might just have the courage to attempt the DCC conversion myself. One last thing - after a little running, can you let us all know how the Class 08 performs now that it is chipped? I've not heard anything bad but would like your comments which will serve as a final analysis of that particular loco with that particular chip.
Oh - and another thing - one chap at least on TH-cam pointed out that on this specific model the coupling rod assembly on the sides of the loco (joining the wheels together) makes the overall loco a little broader in the beam than one might imagine. No idea if this is 'in scale', but he did warn that if you have really tight clearances, as for example with a platform edge, there could be... issues...
What is your own experience?
Cheers!
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, I'll have to do a bit of an update on it as part of a future video. Seems smooth so far, although the first few speed settings it does judder slightly, maybe I'm trying to get it to move too slowly, as dcc will be cutting the power off then fully on X times per second. It may also be that the track voltage it too high which wouldn't help. Width seems fine on Bodenham woods, and the platform clearance is pretty tight.
+Simons Shed Many thanks for your reply Simon - feedback from actual end users is always useful and much appreciated. I hope you have many years of relaxing shunting with this little wonder - I can't wait to get mine and have a bash at the conversion! Hopefully as time goes by we will see more videos of conversions - you can't beat a video for a DIY project like this.
Cheers!
Jeff
Thankyou for the video. Very enjoyable.
Thanks for watching, yes my soldering isn't the best, thanks for the tip 👍
One thing I did was to put the decoder out of the back of the 08 and fit it inside a (now permanently attached) goods wagon - I've seen photos of 08s running around with wagons with tools/chains etc in back in the day... also means I can remove the decoder if necessary as I didn't have to cut the wires down perilously short -
its just a thought everyone....I have to say Simon's fix is very neat - and they do run very well on the Lenz decoders....
Good idea, wonder if I could fit a speaker in a wagon and have dcc sound!
Glad I found this little gem of a video, just about to try doing this myself, by far the best video and guide which I have found. Thanks..
Hmmm, just taken my Class 08 BR Green shunter apart and it is nothing like the inside of your one :( Do you know if there was there an older model that was possibly incompatible, so disappointed after buying it and can't use it.
+Neil Braithwaite yes, there is an old Graham Farish model I think. It was updated a few years ago, but I'm not sure how you DCC the old version unfortunately.
+Simons Shed thanks for that, that's annoying:(
Nice video Simon I still have a 08 to hard wire now I know how to good advice
+foxcell Thanks Mark, it was a bit of a test of my skills, but I was relived to get her running again!
Good video looks great!
Have been waiting to see your DCC conversation, glad it went well. I will now be getting one to convert, I was looking at using the Gauge Master DCC22 decoder chip had you considered that chip for size? I used the DCC23 plugin chip when I converted my Pannier Tank 5764 as it was very small. I had seen this loco when I was a member and able to travel to the SVR. I am enjoying following your experiences with your Shed Valley Railway project. Best wishes form Keith.
Just done mine. Simple to follow your video
What was the app that you used?
Nicely done and a very entertaining video. Rob
Thanks Rob, was quite fiddly. It was a big relief to see her running!
Great video Simon, I have being waiting to see how you get on as I plan to get a Farish 08 later this year. can you use a different back ground music (reminds me of 1980's on night shift with the radio on, trying to stay awake) sorry
Thanks, it was a fiddly job but glad I got her running again! Hard to find music everyone likes, I just go through the TH-cam free music library and find one I like that's the same length as the clip.
i liked the color of the train. the blues music was nice sounded like ec.
Theres more space inside this than there is in the huge farish class70, should be easy enough to fit sound to this. your lead lengths a bit long homie, you only need 1mm tinned
But otherwise very good vid !
As far as the soldering...don't quit your day job ....
Had to stop watching with sound... it was so annoying...please don't have background sound to any video if you are talking........
This video is most excellent, I've been looking everywhere for a decent how-to guide for this, and yours is just the job. I have an 08 Schenker, which I'm assuming is more or less exactly the same as the one you're using, apart from the paint job? Also, can you please let me know what decoder you used? I think I heard DCX75? Many thanks! John