They make a sleeve to fit the front pulley's oil seal surface and since these are prone to leak oil, it is advisable to sleeve that surface. Easy to do. Great video thanks!
Awesome project. Looking forward to seeing it progress. That sleeve puller is nice. I got lucky on my engine and was able to knock them out with a wooden block.
Well mad miller I’m doing to exact jobs you have done. I’m replacing a 350b clutch here in the next couple months and rebuilding a 188 motor to install in a 580c backhoe.
UnitCrane514 Hi, I have a case 1835 with 183 diesel. I'm finding it very difficult to get the timing right. I followed your instructions in detail. The alignment with the dots and pointers also seem right. Is there any way to contact you? I need further assistance.
the pilot tube on the injection pump supports the gear. that shaft slides in and out of the injection pump thats why it has a spring loaded plunger on the end. that dot should be lined up with the idler pointer. Like i mentioned before check the webs between the liners for cracks on these blocks. very common. also crank thrust because every time you step on the clutch it forces the crank one direction and therefore might need to be welded up and remachined. your injection pump you can do yourself. all the shop will do if probably replace the pilot tube and reseal it. i did mine for about 60$ i think and a shop may charge 400+
Did you have any cracks between the cylinder walls, from what I have been reading it is common for these to crack out at the top? Mine is cracked there and all the forums say that is common, but it doesn't pose a problem since it has wet sleeves and the head gasket will seat the top
Hi Mate I’m trying to pull the head of my g188d out of my 530ck backhoe here in Australia. I have all bolts out of the head and all bolts out of the timing cover that go in the head. How did you get the head off before removing the timing cover. Is there dowels going into the head from the timing cover? The head seems welded to the cover. It seems like the Hollow dowels in the block won’t let me slide the head back and forth and the dowels in the timing cover won’t let it come straight up. How did you get yours up or did you not have dowels in the timing cover? I would love any help you have Cheers
there are no dowels in the timing cover, but there are two in the block. did you remove the two nuts on the studs in the middle row of head bolts? those two studs thin down to 1/4" or so to hold the valve cover on. count the number of bolts and nuts you have, make sure it adds up. Im not sure but i think there are 19. after that, just try prying it off. it might be easier if the timing cover is off, there might be some sticktion between the timing gasket and head.
Hi mate 1st of all you are a legend for replying thank you. You were dead right there were no dowels in between the timing cover and the head. It was so stuck that I had to remove the timing cover anyway and now the sump as well as it’s connected to the timing cover and the dumps connected to the bell housing and now I’m in way deeper than I wanted to but oh well. Another fun game I’m about to play I’d remove the front end of the tractor as mine is the 530ck backhoe and the front crank pully won’t slide off the crank without hitting the front cast iron housing that’s connected to the front axle pivot and grill and loader arms ... I feel like dr Nic all I wanted to was a head and it’s all connected to everything including my wrist watch
I just hade same cover same motor and mine lined up dead balls put all back to gether was runing awsome tell i took the dozzer for maden voage and im geting colant in oil now so ill be able to pull the motor apart in my sleep when if i ever get it runing right
9:30 i'll bet whoever was in there last was told to offset the injector pump by 1 tooth to give more adjustment to compensate for gear wear. You rotate the pump to tweak it in, someone got the gears confused.
fyi because you got your engine partially disassembled there is a hollow bolt that goes through the timing cover into the head. i wouldnt want to see you replace it with a standard bolt if it wasnt included with your parts. casefully look at your timing gears. mine were worn and I had to replace them to get it back into spec
+hammerdwn20 I just found the bolt in my bolt pile! However, I have a question. you say it goes through the timing cover into the head, but another video i found, he pointed out that the bolt was the last rocker-arm hold down bolt. any clarification? I'll have to review my manual...
+UnitCrane514 Interesting point! (no pun intended.... har har!) i didn't realize that until you mentioned it. I think it is because that gear is just an idler gear. it's position doesn't matter, but the position of the cam and injection pump gear do. the pointer serves to bridge the gap between those two gears.
+hammerdwn20 Head, block injectors, and pump are all gonna go out. I know i "could" do the IP myself, but they can check spring tensions, cracking pressure, flow test, etc as well. It's more money but they do a good job, i had the pump for my Ford rebuilt and i'm happy with it.
+UnitCrane514 I thought about it, but it's still winter outside, and i'd like to keep the machine rolling for a while. The Ford-A-Hoe project is right outside the shop to be worked on, the plan is once that's out of the way the crawler will be rolled up there, then i can take off tracks, finals/clutches/etc.
Sir. Ham lst case Kiloskar injan Ka foolkaamkiya hu. Salme masin70/75/digri garamhotahai Awr lod denekebaad, 2 ganteme 90/95/garmhotahai. Rediwaatar Niw fen Niw. Yaanike Har former karke dekha hai bimari pakarme nahi aatahai. Iska sujhawde. Awr ekbaatawrhai hedkholnekebaad balokme. Paanika gaelerime paani daalbese hedbootme paani aatahai hedbotme paani aanachahiyekinahi Iska zawab pilis sir digiye mae Bahot bahot parishanhu Awr sarmindahu god naight
We (my Dad) are trying to remove the timing cover to a 1978, 207 dozer but we cant get the 1/2" square drive nut off to remove the pulley and we're not exactly sure if it is clock wise or counter clock wise to remove. we have applied a large impact with some heat going counter clock wise to no avail ...Any ideas?
I stared at it for a while and concluded that i have no idea! It's been a while and i can't remember, but i don't remember having any issue taking it off. Sorry I can't help. I would look at which direction the engine rotates when running, and try turning the nut the same way.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
They make a sleeve to fit the front pulley's oil seal surface and since these are prone to leak oil, it is advisable to sleeve that surface. Easy to do. Great video thanks!
Awesome project. Looking forward to seeing it progress. That sleeve puller is nice. I got lucky on my engine and was able to knock them out with a wooden block.
Your boss made a nice liner puller. What a great old engine.
Well mad miller I’m doing to exact jobs you have done. I’m replacing a 350b clutch here in the next couple months and rebuilding a 188 motor to install in a 580c backhoe.
Who did you go through for your rebuild kit on this build and how do you like them?
This is gonna be a great series! I hope you repaint and restore the tractor like your Ford!!!
+UnitCrane514 Thanks! I do plan on painting it just like the Ford. Hopefully i can find some decals for it instead of hand-painting them!
UnitCrane514
Hi,
I have a case 1835 with 183 diesel. I'm finding it very difficult to get the timing right. I followed your instructions in detail. The alignment with the dots and pointers also seem right. Is there any way to contact you? I need further assistance.
cool stuff man, love watching videos like this, especially if it involves a diesel.
Thanks! I like to use egg cartons to separate nuts bolts, etc in. I number them 1-12, and write down where the parts go.
you can also pack the sleeve with ice and salt to shrink the metal this would be the safest way
the pilot tube on the injection pump supports the gear. that shaft slides in and out of the injection pump thats why it has a spring loaded plunger on the end. that dot should be lined up with the idler pointer. Like i mentioned before check the webs between the liners for cracks on these blocks. very common. also crank thrust because every time you step on the clutch it forces the crank one direction and therefore might need to be welded up and remachined. your injection pump you can do yourself. all the shop will do if probably replace the pilot tube and reseal it. i did mine for about 60$ i think and a shop may charge 400+
+hammerdwn20 Thanks for the input bud! I plan to have the block hot tanked and checked for cracks. might go out this week!
Did you have any cracks between the cylinder walls, from what I have been reading it is common for these to crack out at the top? Mine is cracked there and all the forums say that is common, but it doesn't pose a problem since it has wet sleeves and the head gasket will seat the top
Hi Mate
I’m trying to pull the head of my g188d out of my 530ck backhoe here in Australia.
I have all bolts out of the head and all bolts out of the timing cover that go in the head.
How did you get the head off before removing the timing cover. Is there dowels going into the head from the timing cover? The head seems welded to the cover. It seems like the Hollow dowels in the block won’t let me slide the head back and forth and the dowels in the timing cover won’t let it come straight up.
How did you get yours up or did you not have dowels in the timing cover?
I would love any help you have
Cheers
there are no dowels in the timing cover, but there are two in the block. did you remove the two nuts on the studs in the middle row of head bolts? those two studs thin down to 1/4" or so to hold the valve cover on. count the number of bolts and nuts you have, make sure it adds up. Im not sure but i think there are 19. after that, just try prying it off. it might be easier if the timing cover is off, there might be some sticktion between the timing gasket and head.
Hi mate
1st of all you are a legend for replying thank you. You were dead right there were no dowels in between the timing cover and the head. It was so stuck that I had to remove the timing cover anyway and now the sump as well as it’s connected to the timing cover and the dumps connected to the bell housing and now I’m in way deeper than I wanted to but oh well. Another fun game I’m about to play I’d remove the front end of the tractor as mine is the 530ck backhoe and the front crank pully won’t slide off the crank without hitting the front cast iron housing that’s connected to the front axle pivot and grill and loader arms ... I feel like dr Nic all I wanted to was a head and it’s all connected to everything including my wrist watch
@@TheBjh84 yea, what a pain in the ass! Good luck!
I just hade same cover same motor and mine lined up dead balls put all back to gether was runing awsome tell i took the dozzer for maden voage and im geting colant in oil now so ill be able to pull the motor apart in my sleep when if i ever get it runing right
9:30 i'll bet whoever was in there last was told to offset the injector pump by 1 tooth to give more adjustment to compensate for gear wear. You rotate the pump to tweak it in, someone got the gears confused.
Thank you
fyi because you got your engine partially disassembled there is a hollow bolt that goes through the timing cover into the head. i wouldnt want to see you replace it with a standard bolt if it wasnt included with your parts. casefully look at your timing gears. mine were worn and I had to replace them to get it back into spec
+hammerdwn20 I've heard about that bolt. I don't think i have it. it was for oil flow wasn't it? do you remember what size the bolt is?
+hammerdwn20 I just found the bolt in my bolt pile! However, I have a question. you say it goes through the timing cover into the head, but another video i found, he pointed out that the bolt was the last rocker-arm hold down bolt. any clarification? I'll have to review my manual...
@@themadmailler yes its the last rocker arm bolt for the oil to pass thru
The reason that dot is out one tooth is due to the gear ratio. If you rotated the gears around they would line up eventually
+UnitCrane514 Interesting... i think i follow what you mean. Either way, it'll be put together according to the engine manual and should be fine.
What was the total project cost? Looking to. Buy a 480 b with a bad head, water in oil scenatio
i think that motor ended up costing about $2000.
...how the hell to you put that gear back on if the pointer locks onto the shaft and not the gear?????
+UnitCrane514 Interesting point! (no pun intended.... har har!) i didn't realize that until you mentioned it. I think it is because that gear is just an idler gear. it's position doesn't matter, but the position of the cam and injection pump gear do. the pointer serves to bridge the gap between those two gears.
@@themadmaillerwould you overhaul my 450 dozer? Was using alot of oil before it sat for 10years.
@@abrahamperez4581 i will
i had my head rebuilt by my machine shop for 400$ replacing everything and i sent my injectors out also
+hammerdwn20 Head, block injectors, and pump are all gonna go out. I know i "could" do the IP myself, but they can check spring tensions, cracking pressure, flow test, etc as well. It's more money but they do a good job, i had the pump for my Ford rebuilt and i'm happy with it.
hi
i need the 2 seal on the pump shaft if u have
Who has injectors for this motor?
You can tear into the tractor while you wait on the engine parts
+UnitCrane514 I thought about it, but it's still winter outside, and i'd like to keep the machine rolling for a while. The Ford-A-Hoe project is right outside the shop to be worked on, the plan is once that's out of the way the crawler will be rolled up there, then i can take off tracks, finals/clutches/etc.
Sir. Ham lst case Kiloskar injan Ka foolkaamkiya hu. Salme masin70/75/digri garamhotahai Awr lod denekebaad, 2 ganteme 90/95/garmhotahai. Rediwaatar Niw fen Niw. Yaanike Har former karke dekha hai bimari pakarme nahi aatahai. Iska sujhawde. Awr ekbaatawrhai hedkholnekebaad balokme. Paanika gaelerime paani daalbese hedbootme paani aatahai hedbotme paani aanachahiyekinahi Iska zawab pilis sir digiye mae Bahot bahot parishanhu Awr sarmindahu god naight
Bikul shi h bhai ye
Hi i looking to ask you ??
درود دوست عزیز میشه منم راهنمایی کنی یک بکهو کیس 580 دارم مشکل داره ممنون میشم
Yes i can help what seems to be the issue?
Contact Case! I know a lot of shops that still seem to find decals when the call Case
+UnitCrane514 That's good to know!
We (my Dad) are trying to remove the timing cover to a 1978, 207 dozer but we cant get the 1/2" square drive nut off to remove the pulley and we're not exactly sure if it is clock wise or counter clock wise to remove. we have applied a large impact with some heat going counter clock wise to no avail ...Any ideas?
I'll take a look at mine and see if it's clockwise or counterclockwise.
GREAT!
Did ya find out?
I stared at it for a while and concluded that i have no idea! It's been a while and i can't remember, but i don't remember having any issue taking it off. Sorry I can't help. I would look at which direction the engine rotates when running, and try turning the nut the same way.
Threw impact in reverse counter clock just like any other bolt