great tips. thank you for pointing out to check for what made the flat. Tip: when you have the wheel off, as you pull the tube out, leave it draped exactly as it came out of the tire. Inflate it until you can find the puncture. This will give you a starting point for checking the rim, rim tape as well as the tire for the offending object as well as any additional damage it may have caused. Yours from Portland, Or.
☝🏻👍🏻 all of the above and may I contribute my own tip❓🙏🏻 For the REALLY hard to find little b*ggers🔍, I spray on some homemade snoop (old household spray bottle, weak washing-up liquid/water mix) whilst pumping up the tyre. Found some tiny thorns/fine glass shards that way which ’hide’ in the tyre carcass when deflated only to come out ‘play’ when the punter’s back on the bike thinking all’s fixed.🛞💨😖
Good list, another thing I'd add. Check and see if there is a torque spec first before taking it to your bike. It is very easy to assume that the stem bolts are the only thing that has a torque spec that you might encounter. But in reality there is tons of things that have a torque spec from water bottle bolts to shoe cover bolts to handlebar bags.
For bottle cage bolts, 2 - 3 Nm should do, but I usually do them up by hand using my hex wrench's ball-end, which is only OK for low-torque applications. Cleat bolts, mostly 5 Nm, but I follow the manufacturer's spec otherwise.
Good tips here. Other tips (and opinions): 1. Irritating bike noises are rarely your bottom bracket, despite what people may say. Seatposts, pedals, chainring bolts and spokes are all particularly common culprits. 2. Check your bolts on occasion with a torque wrench to make sure nothing is loosening up. 3. Learn what stack and reach frame measurements you need, then picking new bikes/frame sizes becomes fairly easy. 4. Learn how to swap a tube or plug a tubeless tire. 5. Use light-strength thread locker on computer mounts and use tethers. A surprising number of rides are ruined by a lost or damaged computer, thread locker and tethers prevent that. 6. Be self-sufficient. Don't be the person on the ride who forgot food/a tube/tools/water/etc. 7. Controversially, I've found that occasionally spraying WD40 on your chain to clean it / prevent rust and THEN lubing it with a quality lube actually works really well and only takes a few minutes. 8. Dry lubes essentially do nothing, use wet lubes and use them sparingly.
Absolutely, the sound travels. Also QR skewers too, happened to me more than once and took me few rides to figure it out as it sounded just like a creaky BB.
My d-fuse seapost used to slip. It stopped slipping and started creaking instead. I fixed the creak, and now it's back to slipping. That creak did sound like it was from the bottom bracket though. It was very annoying to track down.
I agree with all of that, except for the dry lube. Muc-off makes some pretty good stuff that works great for mtb as the chain catches way less dust as when I used wet lube!
Excellent tips, except for wet lube. I'll never touch it. Dry lube only (although I'm thinking of going to wax). Wet lube, especially if you're like me living in Australia and riding in the dry, and dusty stuff, wet lube will destroy your drive train.
I feel like ‘not believing what your mates say’ could be an entire video by itself! Also, can I just say that Jimmi is doing an awesome job as Debbie McGee on this one! 😂 Great video, guys. 👌🏻
Bikes require very low skills to work on, it's super easy to learn for almost anyone. So it's sad that many bike owners can't even do basic maintenance.
Some don't even know how to remove their rear wheel to begin with. The first mechanical job I did for my bike was taking my tire and inner tube out of the wheel and back, all self-taught. On top of this, basic derailleur adjustment and basic rim brake adjustment. Now that I've worked in a bike shop for 4+ years, I can build a road bike from the frame up, both rim and disc brake. The frameset upgrade for my bike was done at home, something I'm pretty proud of. Even if I never worked as a mechanic, I would still eventually be able to build my own bike from the frame up. The only catch, is it wouldn't be as perfect as it is today.
I have a torque wrench that's nearly 40 years old and it passes calibration every year. Been reshimmed for adjustment twice in all that time. If you buy a really good one and can get it calibrated then it will last.
@@nickharrison7281 Where I work we have a guy come around and do it annually in his van. if you type torque wrench calibration into google there are loads of options.
Good video. So many bikes I service/restore are covered in grease, WD40 etc. Spend most of my time degreasing. I always say ... ‘if you can see the oil and grease its not doing anything’. It’s internal where it’s needed.
"That explains how I got 8 punctures in one ride". That line had me laughing out loud and fuming at the same time, since something similar happened to me this week. I got a flat, changed the inner tube, checked to see what punctured my tube, didn't find anything, got another flat about 7 miles later, didn't have another tube on hand, had to call for a pickup, when I got the tire off at home, I found the cause of the puncture. Don't do that folks, take the time and check the tire before setting off again.
All great tips, especially the one about not believing your friends. Most of my cycling friends don't know anything about bike maintenance, which I find disturbing. But really the most important tip he gave was about punctures. I've seen it happen time and time again. Someone gets a flat, they stop, replace the tube, and head off only to get another flat a mile down the road. Why? Because the thorn/nail/shard of glass/tack whatever is still in the tire. ALWAYS run your fingers around the inside of the tire before replacing the tube. Be thorough! The minute it takes to be thorough could be the difference between getting home or being stuck.
This! Every time a customer told me they got a puncture again after replacing the first inner tube, my question is always "Did you check the tire for sharp debris?". Regarding poor or non-existent mechanical aptitude, some actually don't even know how to remove a rear wheel.
I have a push pin or needle in my repair kit for easy and complete removal of anything sharp that is still lodged in the tyre. Picking out is often too hard using fingers
Lol took my bike to a local shop for bleeding brakes (and inner tube was punctured too), asked them to fix the inner tube as well. They didn't check for the little prickly in the tire, and sure enough it was flat again in the morning... I expect better from the shops! Glad they did the brakes well though, that's more important.
About trusting shimano and not your mates, shimano is a bit conservative about what is compatible, like how large cassette you can run with short cage derailleur etc. Might save you a few bucks if you know where the rules can be stretched a bit.
Yeah, I just changed to a Microshift 11-46t cassette on a GRX812 RD and it's fine. The max is supposed to be 42t .. I guess trust Shimano if you're not prepared for it to go wrong.
@@dpgrenfree maybe Shimano being conservative is a safeguard against people unwittingly using the big/big gear selection? I don't know, but if it scares/advises people into buying a new rear mech then ... 🙄? How does your Microshift feel, I'm thinking about converting one of my bikes to it
@@tonypaddler it's perfectly fine. Cassette is heavy, took a while to index to fine tune, but yeah, transformed the bike. I went from 40t/11-42t to 36t/11-46t... needed the gears for bikepacking, happy spinning out downhill :)
Was recently trying to get to a Mavic hub and couldn't get it open. One of the allen key felt like it was skipping. Later I realized it could be the allen key. Changed it to my torque and popped open easily. Immediately tossed that loose one away.
5:22 now with rubber in a cold area it shrinks x up the actual contents of the air no not water vapour inside the contents now when it is heated up stance evaporating what conditions this is where you need to put bike in a safe environment which is suitable for the environment for you to keep your information on your tires correctly will use pressure on a regular basis through heat pressure through cold substance
Shimano is pretty conservative with their gear ratio limits. Currently running a 11-32 cassette on an Ultegra with short cage rated 30t max. Works perfectly with the b screw all the way in!
Ill add another good advice. Don`t park you bike with the rear derailleur in the biggest chainring. Spring is tense which is bad for mechanism. Try to put you bike at the smallest wheel of cassete
Wot? Cable tension is the issue. Leave the bike in small small so that the cable is at its slackest and not under tension. Also applies to cable operated dropper posts - don't leave them down.
You mean make sure you're in the small chainring and smallest cog on the cassette, that's just not what you said. Also, I usually leave my bike in the small chainring and middle of the road on the cassette. The important thing is don't do big/big.
I’ve been riding and racing since 1988, and I can not tell you how many of these things I still do… even tho I know better. Especially checking air pressure just before I ride, or fishing out of the sheet what caused the puncture.
6:21 whatever you knows the routine of it 30 must wear secure gloves is Carrie or where a certain material of gloves so you do not catch yourself in enjoy yourself on any particular kind of form or glass the glove material will snag on to it once your finance solution then you can remove it with certain tweezer Pliers or extraction pies or some sort of flies which is very suitable to take out the object from your tire your tyres are starting to wear in town which needs are upgrade immediately meaning Newcastle tyres which is suitable for the high recommended And if you are going to be using a puncture repair kit temporary this puncher until you get yourself a new inner tube the inner tube but it is always best to fix the inner tube first remember once you flight this temporarily
Funny old world ain't it! I've been watching TH-cam cycling videos from all over the world for years and only 2 weeks ago discovered a local lad doing videos 30 mile away 🤣 Keep up the good work! Belta content 👍
07:50 yep listen to that man. Had once that the axle came loose through riding. It is NOT like your Pedals or other stuff that tightens through pedaling and riding. The vibrations and rotation unspins it and there goes your wheel. Luckily I noticed early and the axle also sits on a flange so als long as i didnt lift the bike there was not much to feel but on the corners I noticed. Still sometimes happening to me that my axle is too loose, because i take the wheels off for washing or maintenance. Before every ride I try to incorporate a basic SAFETY CHECK which is mainly visual, but the only mechanical thing I try remember checking every time is the thru axle. I also want to try and stick stickers on my bike saying what needs to be done before safe to ride. So if I put on the crank just so that it isnt lying on the floor but it isnt tightened, I put a sticker saying tighten crankset.
@@sbccbc7471 nope my thru axles have a quick release style skewer. I have one that came with the bike, which is really basic (canyon) but it does it’s job. The thru axle just needs to be really tight when using the quick release skewer.
4:40 ok the brakes right before oiling before commencing the soil extraction make sure you take off your cassette or your block or if you have a rim brake or a disc brake remove them immediately do not apply on your wheel at all to try and remove the block all the cassette and then use the certain substance for it then you can wipe off the accessory which leaves small oil accessory on what is left on the cassette or the Block cassette But if you cannot be asked that how to remove the disk and use normal newspaper some sort of material Just to cover up your rims if you using Rim brakes
4:25 ok living it up basically you have to do ghusl after cleaning the process but it's going to take a long time to process the cleaning you need to record the tuning material tools after usage of a bike you don't have to do it constantly what you're doing is wearing the train and using the products mostly all the time till eventually you run out of the product then you need to go out and buy it it's called rational thinking And when even into a place yes it's best to lub up the chain and a dry or cold area but just remember if you leave it in a cold area which has got moisture such as a shed can corrode the chain and causes it to Rust
When checking the tire after a puncture it often helps to inflate the inner tube to find out where on the tire it happened. If the debris is very small, a tiny piece of metal wire for example, it's very likely the only way to find it.
The amount of people that don't pump their tires up before every ride blows my mind. Hate when people blame it on the tire brand haha. Kudos for the video!
I never do that! Only when it starts to feel a bit low do I get the pump on it. But I do at least check the feel before every ride. Plus I think I ride with a high pressure to start (100 psi), 25mm on smooth dry roads in Europe. So dropping a little each ride is okay.
@@stephencharles6932 yes, some butyl tubes hold pressure remarkably well, if I pump the tyre to 100 PSI on the first Saturday the next Saturday pressure might drop to 90 psi, I usually pump twice a month in general for weekend rides.
I don't necessarily do that with my errand bike, but that has beefy Contis, and it can run low without trashing the rim. On the other hand, with high quality tubs, the inner tube is latex, and will lose 20psi or more overnight. I'll pump my 23mm Vitts and Veloflexs to 100/110 before every ride.
3:39 but sometimes England do you know have the extraction and circular before they changed the sink so unable to attach hoses to the sink we don't have a hose attachment outside so pretty much when you're living in a council property you don't have any of those qualities
On one of my older bikes I owned, the derailleur hanger was fairly soft and was bent very easily. I bent it so many times and got it fixed so many times that the hanger material begun to probably crack and break down, and then one day in the middle of a ride my derailleur got ripped clean off going about 50kmh. I can tell you now, the aftermath of the derailleur being ripped off was not pretty and I never so that derailleur ever again, makes me wonder where it is now.
Always cover your discs when lubing the chain with a clean rag. Muc-off even has special "flight covers" for this. This will prevent small droplets of lube getting onto the discs which will get into your pads causing horrible noises.
3:58 ok the headset basically if you got a wobble or a plane it is I've a in its title time the top bars what time do the two bolts at the side to produce it down or it could be the plate itself where it rolls on the bearings which is on the fork itself or it could be the fact that your parents has gone causing a massive amounts of play and rupture why you're bearings for start shifting out of place
5:46 I said the WD40 is only meant to be used for a commencing cleaning operation for example the cleaner operation of WD-40 is a cleaning to lube up the big ginormous Grease deteriorated off the finger cleaning materials do not use WD-40 all the time because it can corrode and rubs up your chain and Pyle more dirt on it only use it in a cleaning product when you wipe your the access dirt leave it up to sometime but you have to wash this WD-40 off and then apply your normal by Coil after washing commencing
5:01 tyre pressure look at the tyre pressure on your bike it will say a certain rating of 35 to 65 65 is the maximum 35 is the minimum strongly suggest going between such as 50 or maybe 45 comfortable ride
The pressure someone should have there tyres depends on a load of things, and your suggestion will apply to a particular group of people that are of a particular weight riding a particular size of tyre. You were reasonably right to say check the side of the tyre, but wrong to give any values. Far better advice would be to tell people to go to an online tyre pressure calculator (Silca, SRAM both have good ones) and plug in tyre size, rider weight, etc and go with what they suggest. while it is a really bad idea go above the maximum stated pressure for a tyre, going below the minimum is becoming quite common, particularly on gravel bikes, and even more so if running tyre inserts.
7:49 from Mac no the wireless one unfortunately what happens if you run out of battery power on a ride and you're forgetting to charge it you wasting my electricity second for it is connected to a wireless network which is it waterproof second of all is it damage proof which is already been generally checked but they problem is the remake itself is to lose power when it's on or off because the mechanism of the charging mechanism pumping the electricity through the outer main
One of the best things about tubeless is you very quickly get into the habit of checking pressures before each ride, especially if the temperature has gone up/down markedly. One of the downsides to be aware of is if you get a slash/hole that the plug/anchovies won't fix and have to resort to your spare inner tube (you DO have one surely?) and a boot is to be careful as "F" and check the ENTIRE tyre over and over for any and all sharps inside that your wonderful sealant has taken care of until now...more of an issue for those of you in thorny areas who have probably punctured dozens of times but never known... (unless you use muc-off, doesn't seal sh*t...)...otherwise your precious, lifesaving tube may be ruined the minute you inflate it!
I use Squirt and don't clean my drivetrain at all. I only degrease the chain when it is brand new and I am putting it on. I am on my 9th chain so far...no changes to my cassette or chainring. Don't believe it when people give you a set ratio of X number of chains and you have to replace the rest. Running Ultegra Di2. My LBS said my bike was meant to ride a long time between overhauls. Absolutely right!
how many miles have you does, i have done 9000 miles and still no my first chain and longs of life left in it, i used to use squirt, but don't use it now.
Sometimes I use new wet lube over old rag cleaned dry weather lube. But the only reason for this is because rain is expected last minute before a ride or race. Better some wet lube over dry lube than washed off lube during a rain shower I guess? Gotta clean it anyway after a wet ride.
Spray ur drive train after cleaning it with gt85 if ur in a hurry... Then later... Don't use gt85 to lube chain.... That gonna be confusing for many. Gt85 spray is only to inhibit rust post wash if in a hurry, on cassette, chain etc, not to lube. U still need to lube chain AS WELL even if in hurry (or 24hrs before next ride so it has time to really get into the rollers in the chain links
Always get quality tire levers if you can't brute force the tire bead on with your hands. Just had my first flat today after over 1k km on my innertubes. Sneaky glas shard. My Gravelkings were a tough fit, and I nearly broke my cheap tirelevers.
Good tyre levers are always my first thing I tell people to get when putting a kit together. Cheap ones are £2 and ones that'll last a lifetime like Park's or Pedros are like £4.
I personally wouldn't try mounting stubborn tires with tire levers, especially on carbon rims (I'm more tolerable on aluminium rims), maybe unless it's absolutely my last resort.
Can attest to the headset part: after building my first road bike, I had TERRIFYING speed wobbles on DH sections >65km/h. Turns out the headset had just a tiny bit of play but it took me a while to root cause it.
Before I started one ride I did back in May 2022, I caught my headset assembly being loose. Fortunately, I brought my torque wrench and hex wrench set to rectify this. Months later, I found out this new frameset of mine has a tendency to loosen it, but not all units of this model have this problem. As a result, I had to crank down on my top cap bolt more than any other bike I've worked on, but my front end can still rotate freely on its own.
I want to add to this: Never assume that because you can change an inner tube, you can mix and match components willy-nilly and build cyclocross chimeras.
8:37 ok when tidying up a finger yes a socket wrench is useful for it however you only titled to the certain degree which is on there how many individual people are there who are tightening their belts it's best to do it hand tight can't move it any favour there is certain people have got more brute strength once you tighten up to your strength that bike is only recognition to you no one else because if anybody else write it it's going to cause damage it's gonna break apart because it's not tightened up to their strength
Should more nuance been given to the advice about tightening QR levers? I think it's especially important on disc brake bikes with QR levers, because the front disc brake produces a force that tries to extract the wheel from its mount, in some cases with a force stronger than Qr was designed to handle. This is the reason why QR is going away and being replaced with thru-axle.
The general advice I've heard elsewhere from places like Park Tool and my coach as a kid was that you should easily be able to push it to roughly the middle of the stroke (so in line with the rest of the skewer) and then it gives resistance. That leaves a white mark on my hand like Nick said, and it's 3 fingers to undo. Though do check you've not got a rusty QR else it could be really hard to tighten while not actually doing much locking pressure.
Yes, that is why I was keen to get through axle on my new touring/bikepacking bike. It has never been a problem on my road bike because I use the brakes so rarely, but frequent braking of a loaded bike can loosen your QR pretty quickly.
7:38 Even a cheap mechanical derailleur can do that, just try with any mechanical derailleur and you'll see! Sram made such a fuss about this functionality that everyone (including me) thought this was revolutionary but it's not. They had to add this to counteract a problem that was inherent to their new electronic system and didn't exist before. (sram axs is still a great product for road use despite its overexpensiveness) This guy may have 20 years of experience and say some interesting stuff but he also says quite some bullsh*t sometimes...
The rule I learned is: The QR should engage the dropout when the lever is perpendicular to the plane of the wheel. Closing the QR will take a bit of strength, but the QRs will stay closed.
@@christopheroliver148 I rarely see people with QR levers that are properly oriented: Front: Right behind the fork blade/point towards the back Rear: Between the seatstay and chainstay or if this isn't possible, under the chainstay. I once told one of my customers not to align his levers right in line with the fork blade and chainstay, but he did it again, at least once.
my backup bike has a rounded off seat post bolt. I've asked multiple bike shops to fix it when i've brought my bike in for repairs, and they all ignore my request. I guess I know why now
The amount of times I've had customers coming back with bent hangers saying, you didn't do my gears properly... ...I haven't dedicated most of my adult life being a bike nerd and not know my shit! Lol😂
I would add to every few months reinstall the seatpost and front blades, especially if riding in all kinds of weather. Once they get stuck you'll seriously regret not having done that before. I'm one of those who didn't follow shimano instructions by installing a 32 cassette with a short cage derailleur meant for max 28T, but never made the mistake of going big front and big back in the gears, so it "worked". After having the derailleur broke in an road accident, replaced it with a long cage one of course.
Jimmy's antics are funny. His grinny head whilst spraying on the brakes.....😂😂😂😂😂🇮🇪
great tips. thank you for pointing out to check for what made the flat. Tip: when you have the wheel off, as you pull the tube out, leave it draped exactly as it came out of the tire. Inflate it until you can find the puncture. This will give you a starting point for checking the rim, rim tape as well as the tire for the offending object as well as any additional damage it may have caused. Yours from Portland, Or.
Or line up your logos with the valve hole ;) That way you have "indexed" your tire against the tube as well
☝🏻👍🏻 all of the above and may I contribute my own tip❓🙏🏻
For the REALLY hard to find little b*ggers🔍, I spray on some homemade snoop (old household spray bottle, weak washing-up liquid/water mix) whilst pumping up the tyre. Found some tiny thorns/fine glass shards that way which ’hide’ in the tyre carcass when deflated only to come out ‘play’ when the punter’s back on the bike thinking all’s fixed.🛞💨😖
This is what I do. Plus it looks cool
Good list, another thing I'd add. Check and see if there is a torque spec first before taking it to your bike.
It is very easy to assume that the stem bolts are the only thing that has a torque spec that you might encounter. But in reality there is tons of things that have a torque spec from water bottle bolts to shoe cover bolts to handlebar bags.
For bottle cage bolts, 2 - 3 Nm should do, but I usually do them up by hand using my hex wrench's ball-end, which is only OK for low-torque applications. Cleat bolts, mostly 5 Nm, but I follow the manufacturer's spec otherwise.
These format of videos with Nic are the best honestly...
excellent video 3:42 made me spit out my coffee with laughter, nice one 'not beliving what your mate's say is golden'
Drilling out a rounded off bolt is not always needed. I usually just hammer in a torx bit. Simple fix, works 9 out of 10 times!
Good tips here. Other tips (and opinions): 1. Irritating bike noises are rarely your bottom bracket, despite what people may say. Seatposts, pedals, chainring bolts and spokes are all particularly common culprits. 2. Check your bolts on occasion with a torque wrench to make sure nothing is loosening up. 3. Learn what stack and reach frame measurements you need, then picking new bikes/frame sizes becomes fairly easy. 4. Learn how to swap a tube or plug a tubeless tire. 5. Use light-strength thread locker on computer mounts and use tethers. A surprising number of rides are ruined by a lost or damaged computer, thread locker and tethers prevent that. 6. Be self-sufficient. Don't be the person on the ride who forgot food/a tube/tools/water/etc. 7. Controversially, I've found that occasionally spraying WD40 on your chain to clean it / prevent rust and THEN lubing it with a quality lube actually works really well and only takes a few minutes. 8. Dry lubes essentially do nothing, use wet lubes and use them sparingly.
Absolutely, the sound travels. Also QR skewers too, happened to me more than once and took me few rides to figure it out as it sounded just like a creaky BB.
And cleats. Loose cleats can make a squeek as well. Great tips.
My d-fuse seapost used to slip. It stopped slipping and started creaking instead. I fixed the creak, and now it's back to slipping. That creak did sound like it was from the bottom bracket though. It was very annoying to track down.
I agree with all of that, except for the dry lube.
Muc-off makes some pretty good stuff that works great for mtb as the chain catches way less dust as when I used wet lube!
Excellent tips, except for wet lube. I'll never touch it. Dry lube only (although I'm thinking of going to wax). Wet lube, especially if you're like me living in Australia and riding in the dry, and dusty stuff, wet lube will destroy your drive train.
I feel like ‘not believing what your mates say’ could be an entire video by itself!
Also, can I just say that Jimmi is doing an awesome job as Debbie McGee on this one! 😂
Great video, guys. 👌🏻
If they consider you a mate thou 😅
I think James would agree with it in terms of bike fit also
Highlight of this video: “thank god I’m Welsh”
Are there a bunch of cats missing their eyes in England?😮
3:42
3:42 - easily the best thing ever said on any TH-cam channel, in the history of TH-cam. Might even be the best thing said anywhere and anytime
hahah
Bikes require very low skills to work on, it's super easy to learn for almost anyone. So it's sad that many bike owners can't even do basic maintenance.
Some don't even know how to remove their rear wheel to begin with. The first mechanical job I did for my bike was taking my tire and inner tube out of the wheel and back, all self-taught. On top of this, basic derailleur adjustment and basic rim brake adjustment.
Now that I've worked in a bike shop for 4+ years, I can build a road bike from the frame up, both rim and disc brake. The frameset upgrade for my bike was done at home, something I'm pretty proud of.
Even if I never worked as a mechanic, I would still eventually be able to build my own bike from the frame up. The only catch, is it wouldn't be as perfect as it is today.
I have a torque wrench that's nearly 40 years old and it passes calibration every year. Been reshimmed for adjustment twice in all that time. If you buy a really good one and can get it calibrated then it will last.
Interesting....Where or who or how can you calibrate a torque wrench?
@@nickharrison7281 Where I work we have a guy come around and do it annually in his van. if you type torque wrench calibration into google there are loads of options.
Love this! Please speak about maintaining and cleaning a bike with disc brakes and a waxed chain.
3:48 Little knowledge is known as the Dunning-Krueger effect/curve
Good video. So many bikes I service/restore are covered in grease, WD40 etc. Spend most of my time degreasing. I always say ... ‘if you can see the oil and grease its not doing anything’. It’s internal where it’s needed.
"That explains how I got 8 punctures in one ride". That line had me laughing out loud and fuming at the same time, since something similar happened to me this week. I got a flat, changed the inner tube, checked to see what punctured my tube, didn't find anything, got another flat about 7 miles later, didn't have another tube on hand, had to call for a pickup, when I got the tire off at home, I found the cause of the puncture. Don't do that folks, take the time and check the tire before setting off again.
All great tips, especially the one about not believing your friends. Most of my cycling friends don't know anything about bike maintenance, which I find disturbing. But really the most important tip he gave was about punctures. I've seen it happen time and time again. Someone gets a flat, they stop, replace the tube, and head off only to get another flat a mile down the road. Why? Because the thorn/nail/shard of glass/tack whatever is still in the tire. ALWAYS run your fingers around the inside of the tire before replacing the tube. Be thorough! The minute it takes to be thorough could be the difference between getting home or being stuck.
This! Every time a customer told me they got a puncture again after replacing the first inner tube, my question is always "Did you check the tire for sharp debris?".
Regarding poor or non-existent mechanical aptitude, some actually don't even know how to remove a rear wheel.
I have a push pin or needle in my repair kit for easy and complete removal of anything sharp that is still lodged in the tyre. Picking out is often too hard using fingers
You need a band aid plaster for when your finger finds the sharp thorn/glass/nail...
Lol took my bike to a local shop for bleeding brakes (and inner tube was punctured too), asked them to fix the inner tube as well. They didn't check for the little prickly in the tire, and sure enough it was flat again in the morning... I expect better from the shops! Glad they did the brakes well though, that's more important.
I absolutely love the way he describes things...it is honest, direct, and humorous all at the same time! Thank you! :)
Good to see Adam Sandler is having fun with bikes now
About trusting shimano and not your mates, shimano is a bit conservative about what is compatible, like how large cassette you can run with short cage derailleur etc.
Might save you a few bucks if you know where the rules can be stretched a bit.
@Markus, this is very true!
@Paul Southworth yes Paul, I've used rear mechs on 'out of range' cassettes before using a longer B screw than standard.
Yeah, I just changed to a Microshift 11-46t cassette on a GRX812 RD and it's fine. The max is supposed to be 42t .. I guess trust Shimano if you're not prepared for it to go wrong.
@@dpgrenfree maybe Shimano being conservative is a safeguard against people unwittingly using the big/big gear selection?
I don't know, but if it scares/advises people into buying a new rear mech then ... 🙄?
How does your Microshift feel, I'm thinking about converting one of my bikes to it
@@tonypaddler it's perfectly fine. Cassette is heavy, took a while to index to fine tune, but yeah, transformed the bike. I went from 40t/11-42t to 36t/11-46t... needed the gears for bikepacking, happy spinning out downhill :)
Excellent acting in the b-roll shots, 10/10
It was really enjoyable to listen to nick, really good vibes coming from him. Cheers
Rounding off bolts from furniture purchase 😂 spot on, you must have spied on me 👌, I learned that the hard way on a set of cranks
Was recently trying to get to a Mavic hub and couldn't get it open. One of the allen key felt like it was skipping. Later I realized it could be the allen key. Changed it to my torque and popped open easily. Immediately tossed that loose one away.
5:22 now with rubber in a cold area it shrinks x up the actual contents of the air no not water vapour inside the contents now when it is heated up stance evaporating what conditions this is where you need to put bike in a safe environment which is suitable for the environment for you to keep your information on your tires correctly will use pressure on a regular basis through heat pressure through cold substance
Shimano is pretty conservative with their gear ratio limits. Currently running a 11-32 cassette on an Ultegra with short cage rated 30t max. Works perfectly with the b screw all the way in!
Ill add another good advice. Don`t park you bike with the rear derailleur in the biggest chainring. Spring is tense which is bad for mechanism. Try to put you bike at the smallest wheel of cassete
But the rear derailleur is no where near the chainrings, so don't worry
Wot? Cable tension is the issue. Leave the bike in small small so that the cable is at its slackest and not under tension.
Also applies to cable operated dropper posts - don't leave them down.
You mean make sure you're in the small chainring and smallest cog on the cassette, that's just not what you said. Also, I usually leave my bike in the small chainring and middle of the road on the cassette. The important thing is don't do big/big.
@@shepshape2585 Yeap, sorry i use in many situations translator, im from Poland and i still have lot to learn, in engilsh
No lol
6:35 a Snakebite is Basie where you ring the inner tube jumped off a certain height object or doing a trick India and London completely off track
I’ve been riding and racing since 1988, and I can not tell you how many of these things I still do… even tho I know better. Especially checking air pressure just before I ride, or fishing out of the sheet what caused the puncture.
6:21 whatever you knows the routine of it 30 must wear secure gloves is Carrie or where a certain material of gloves so you do not catch yourself in enjoy yourself on any particular kind of form or glass the glove material will snag on to it once your finance solution then you can remove it with certain tweezer Pliers or extraction pies or some sort of flies which is very suitable to take out the object from your tire your tyres are starting to wear in town which needs are upgrade immediately meaning Newcastle tyres which is suitable for the high recommended
And if you are going to be using a puncture repair kit temporary this puncher until you get yourself a new inner tube the inner tube but it is always best to fix the inner tube first remember once you flight this temporarily
Funny old world ain't it! I've been watching TH-cam cycling videos from all over the world for years and only 2 weeks ago discovered a local lad doing videos 30 mile away 🤣 Keep up the good work! Belta content 👍
07:50 yep listen to that man. Had once that the axle came loose through riding. It is NOT like your Pedals or other stuff that tightens through pedaling and riding. The vibrations and rotation unspins it and there goes your wheel. Luckily I noticed early and the axle also sits on a flange so als long as i didnt lift the bike there was not much to feel but on the corners I noticed. Still sometimes happening to me that my axle is too loose, because i take the wheels off for washing or maintenance.
Before every ride I try to incorporate a basic SAFETY CHECK which is mainly visual, but the only mechanical thing I try remember checking every time is the thru axle. I also want to try and stick stickers on my bike saying what needs to be done before safe to ride. So if I put on the crank just so that it isnt lying on the floor but it isnt tightened, I put a sticker saying tighten crankset.
Do you have a torque wrench now?
@@sbccbc7471 nope my thru axles have a quick release style skewer. I have one that came with the bike, which is really basic (canyon) but it does it’s job. The thru axle just needs to be really tight when using the quick release skewer.
Love all the videos with Nic, he’s great!
I love NICs tips most stuff is too expensive he mentioned but I'm die hard Fenicks and Fidlock forever now, he can keep his aeroplane bearings 🤣
4:40 ok the brakes right before oiling before commencing the soil extraction make sure you take off your cassette or your block or if you have a rim brake or a disc brake remove them immediately do not apply on your wheel at all to try and remove the block all the cassette and then use the certain substance for it then you can wipe off the accessory which leaves small oil accessory on what is left on the cassette or the Block cassette
But if you cannot be asked that how to remove the disk and use normal newspaper some sort of material Just to cover up your rims if you using Rim brakes
4:25 ok living it up basically you have to do ghusl after cleaning the process but it's going to take a long time to process the cleaning you need to record the tuning material tools after usage of a bike you don't have to do it constantly what you're doing is wearing the train and using the products mostly all the time till eventually you run out of the product then you need to go out and buy it it's called rational thinking
And when even into a place yes it's best to lub up the chain and a dry or cold area but just remember if you leave it in a cold area which has got moisture such as a shed can corrode the chain and causes it to Rust
He is so so so good amazing communicator and experience
When checking the tire after a puncture it often helps to inflate the inner tube to find out where on the tire it happened.
If the debris is very small, a tiny piece of metal wire for example, it's very likely the only way to find it.
The amount of people that don't pump their tires up before every ride blows my mind. Hate when people blame it on the tire brand haha. Kudos for the video!
I never do that! Only when it starts to feel a bit low do I get the pump on it. But I do at least check the feel before every ride. Plus I think I ride with a high pressure to start (100 psi), 25mm on smooth dry roads in Europe. So dropping a little each ride is okay.
@@stephencharles6932 yes, some butyl tubes hold pressure remarkably well, if I pump the tyre to 100 PSI on the first Saturday the next Saturday pressure might drop to 90 psi, I usually pump twice a month in general for weekend rides.
The number of people. NUMBER!
I don't necessarily do that with my errand bike, but that has beefy Contis, and it can run low without trashing the rim. On the other hand, with high quality tubs, the inner tube is latex, and will lose 20psi or more overnight. I'll pump my 23mm Vitts and Veloflexs to 100/110 before every ride.
The bent rear derailleur hanger is just a nightmare, it can make you index gears for ages with tge indexing just not coming through...
3:39 but sometimes England do you know have the extraction and circular before they changed the sink so unable to attach hoses to the sink we don't have a hose attachment outside so pretty much when you're living in a council property you don't have any of those qualities
After a good wash, I use a hairdryer on the drive chain and then lube the chain.
On one of my older bikes I owned, the derailleur hanger was fairly soft and was bent very easily. I bent it so many times and got it fixed so many times that the hanger material begun to probably crack and break down, and then one day in the middle of a ride my derailleur got ripped clean off going about 50kmh. I can tell you now, the aftermath of the derailleur being ripped off was not pretty and I never so that derailleur ever again, makes me wonder where it is now.
Always cover your discs when lubing the chain with a clean rag. Muc-off even has special "flight covers" for this. This will prevent small droplets of lube getting onto the discs which will get into your pads causing horrible noises.
Great tips! Jimmy's NPC actions were a hoot.
3:58 ok the headset basically if you got a wobble or a plane it is I've a in its title time the top bars what time do the two bolts at the side to produce it down or it could be the plate itself where it rolls on the bearings which is on the fork itself or it could be the fact that your parents has gone causing a massive amounts of play and rupture why you're bearings for start shifting out of place
Nick is so kind
I have definitely had a quick release wheel nearly come off due to vibrations shaking it loose over time 😬
5:46 I said the WD40 is only meant to be used for a commencing cleaning operation for example the cleaner operation of WD-40 is a cleaning to lube up the big ginormous Grease deteriorated off the finger cleaning materials do not use WD-40 all the time because it can corrode and rubs up your chain and Pyle more dirt on it only use it in a cleaning product when you wipe your the access dirt leave it up to sometime but you have to wash this WD-40 off and then apply your normal by Coil after washing commencing
5:01 tyre pressure look at the tyre pressure on your bike it will say a certain rating of 35 to 65 65 is the maximum 35 is the minimum strongly suggest going between such as 50 or maybe 45 comfortable ride
The pressure someone should have there tyres depends on a load of things, and your suggestion will apply to a particular group of people that are of a particular weight riding a particular size of tyre.
You were reasonably right to say check the side of the tyre, but wrong to give any values. Far better advice would be to tell people to go to an online tyre pressure calculator (Silca, SRAM both have good ones) and plug in tyre size, rider weight, etc and go with what they suggest.
while it is a really bad idea go above the maximum stated pressure for a tyre, going below the minimum is becoming quite common, particularly on gravel bikes, and even more so if running tyre inserts.
If QR not tight then the rear wheel can be pulled into the frame and hence you damage your carbon frame
7:49 from Mac no the wireless one unfortunately what happens if you run out of battery power on a ride and you're forgetting to charge it you wasting my electricity second for it is connected to a wireless network which is it waterproof second of all is it damage proof which is already been generally checked but they problem is the remake itself is to lose power when it's on or off because the mechanism of the charging mechanism pumping the electricity through the outer main
Hi! Long time subscriber and mechanic, THANK You!!! The Torque wrench 🤘🍻🙏🍻
Excellent. More please.
One of the best things about tubeless is you very quickly get into the habit of checking pressures before each ride, especially if the temperature has gone up/down markedly. One of the downsides to be aware of is if you get a slash/hole that the plug/anchovies won't fix and have to resort to your spare inner tube (you DO have one surely?) and a boot is to be careful as "F" and check the ENTIRE tyre over and over for any and all sharps inside that your wonderful sealant has taken care of until now...more of an issue for those of you in thorny areas who have probably punctured dozens of times but never known... (unless you use muc-off, doesn't seal sh*t...)...otherwise your precious, lifesaving tube may be ruined the minute you inflate it!
being poor and getting into bikes is overwhelming
Thru axle definitey an important point. People underestimate what 12-15 Nm actually are!
Some thru-axle torque specs range as low as 8 - 10 Nm.
I use Squirt and don't clean my drivetrain at all. I only degrease the chain when it is brand new and I am putting it on. I am on my 9th chain so far...no changes to my cassette or chainring. Don't believe it when people give you a set ratio of X number of chains and you have to replace the rest.
Running Ultegra Di2. My LBS said my bike was meant to ride a long time between overhauls. Absolutely right!
how many miles have you does, i have done 9000 miles and still no my first chain and longs of life left in it, i used to use squirt, but don't use it now.
@@stephentait8734 Squirting too often is bad for your health
Check tyres after every rest or coffey shop stop , for glass etc about to cause a punture
Great advice learnt tons
Sometimes I use new wet lube over old rag cleaned dry weather lube. But the only reason for this is because rain is expected last minute before a ride or race. Better some wet lube over dry lube than washed off lube during a rain shower I guess? Gotta clean it anyway after a wet ride.
Love the mechanic's jersey , if you know you know , any old school dudes here that love COLUMBUS ?
Sorry. Dedacciai, Reynolds, and Ishiwata 'round these parts. 😉
Well good im an auto tech by trade and can fix any bike. Swapped out my bontrager brakes on my madone 5.2 to ultregra brakes :).
Great video lads!
Funny fun fact! Loved it. Do more!
This lunatic's videos are amazing!
They are always funny...that is what makes them stand out from the rest i.e. Not boring
Spray ur drive train after cleaning it with gt85 if ur in a hurry... Then later... Don't use gt85 to lube chain.... That gonna be confusing for many.
Gt85 spray is only to inhibit rust post wash if in a hurry, on cassette, chain etc, not to lube. U still need to lube chain AS WELL even if in hurry (or 24hrs before next ride so it has time to really get into the rollers in the chain links
Always get quality tire levers if you can't brute force the tire bead on with your hands. Just had my first flat today after over 1k km on my innertubes. Sneaky glas shard. My Gravelkings were a tough fit, and I nearly broke my cheap tirelevers.
Good tyre levers are always my first thing I tell people to get when putting a kit together. Cheap ones are £2 and ones that'll last a lifetime like Park's or Pedros are like £4.
I personally wouldn't try mounting stubborn tires with tire levers, especially on carbon rims (I'm more tolerable on aluminium rims), maybe unless it's absolutely my last resort.
Very usefull tips for a beginner!
Can attest to the headset part: after building my first road bike, I had TERRIFYING speed wobbles on DH sections >65km/h. Turns out the headset had just a tiny bit of play but it took me a while to root cause it.
Before I started one ride I did back in May 2022, I caught my headset assembly being loose. Fortunately, I brought my torque wrench and hex wrench set to rectify this.
Months later, I found out this new frameset of mine has a tendency to loosen it, but not all units of this model have this problem. As a result, I had to crank down on my top cap bolt more than any other bike I've worked on, but my front end can still rotate freely on its own.
Where does he talk about the headset?
3:00 that's why you need an allen key which is known as chromo Steel
Last tip is super important. I left loose axle on DB800 Fulcrum and my freehub just went off after 50km
I want to add to this: Never assume that because you can change an inner tube, you can mix and match components willy-nilly and build cyclocross chimeras.
8:37 ok when tidying up a finger yes a socket wrench is useful for it however you only titled to the certain degree which is on there how many individual people are there who are tightening their belts it's best to do it hand tight can't move it any favour there is certain people have got more brute strength once you tighten up to your strength that bike is only recognition to you no one else because if anybody else write it it's going to cause damage it's gonna break apart because it's not tightened up to their strength
Should more nuance been given to the advice about tightening QR levers?
I think it's especially important on disc brake bikes with QR levers, because the front disc brake produces a force that tries to extract the wheel from its mount, in some cases with a force stronger than Qr was designed to handle. This is the reason why QR is going away and being replaced with thru-axle.
The general advice I've heard elsewhere from places like Park Tool and my coach as a kid was that you should easily be able to push it to roughly the middle of the stroke (so in line with the rest of the skewer) and then it gives resistance. That leaves a white mark on my hand like Nick said, and it's 3 fingers to undo. Though do check you've not got a rusty QR else it could be really hard to tighten while not actually doing much locking pressure.
Definitely, almost all riders who still have QR levers on their bikes have theirs done up incorrectly, mainly on lever orientation.
Yes, that is why I was keen to get through axle on my new touring/bikepacking bike. It has never been a problem on my road bike because I use the brakes so rarely, but frequent braking of a loaded bike can loosen your QR pretty quickly.
7:38 Even a cheap mechanical derailleur can do that, just try with any mechanical derailleur and you'll see!
Sram made such a fuss about this functionality that everyone (including me) thought this was revolutionary but it's not.
They had to add this to counteract a problem that was inherent to their new electronic system and didn't exist before.
(sram axs is still a great product for road use despite its overexpensiveness)
This guy may have 20 years of experience and say some interesting stuff but he also says quite some bullsh*t sometimes...
Well his first point was don't blindly trust what someone else recommends
@@janeblogs324 True, but I bet he wasn’t thinking about himself when saying that lmao
8:03 for me it sounds like "if you have quick relise, you will die"
The rule I learned is: The QR should engage the dropout when the lever is perpendicular to the plane of the wheel. Closing the QR will take a bit of strength, but
the QRs will stay closed.
@@christopheroliver148 I rarely see people with QR levers that are properly oriented:
Front: Right behind the fork blade/point towards the back
Rear: Between the seatstay and chainstay or if this isn't possible, under the chainstay.
I once told one of my customers not to align his levers right in line with the fork blade and chainstay, but he did it again, at least once.
You are mentioning GT85 containing PTFE (=> PFAS) like this is a good thing?!?
PTFE works well in my opinion...beware of it's toxicity however...
PFTE lubes are second best after gear oil IMO.
Of course, if you want to support your LBS, do all these things... :) Good summary.
@7:33 Oh, you mean Dag. 🤘🙃🤘
I need to send this to myself 10 years ago 😂
haha, so true! It's unfair we had to learn the hard way!
my backup bike has a rounded off seat post bolt. I've asked multiple bike shops to fix it when i've brought my bike in for repairs, and they all ignore my request. I guess I know why now
Maybe some tips on setting up mechanical disc brakes, since I loathe them
Trace Velo has some good videos about mechanical disc brakes
Never ride without knowing whether you have the right amount of pressure in your tires. Let all the air out and be sure you don't.
Acetone for disc pad! Get some from ur girls!!
Wait so you're expected to clean your drivetrain after every ride but you're also expected to have to lube it after every time you clean it?
Any affiliate links for Fenwicks. The last few videos have persuaded me to make an order 😅
Great advice
More videos with Nick please
"Oh, thank god I'm welsh!" 😂😂
Damm too late!!!. You just earned a life time subscriber.
I’m glad I live in 🏴 🤣
@3:54..... You mean 12 spacers are not the norm?
The amount of times I've had customers coming back with bent hangers saying, you didn't do my gears properly... ...I haven't dedicated most of my adult life being a bike nerd and not know my shit! Lol😂
PTFE seems to work as a lubricant can't really see why it won't work on a chain
Im not an expert but doesnt dish soap also cause galvanic corrosion on aluminium parts?? seems a bit counter productive using it on your drivetrain.
Best advice in this video: 'use something that works well'. Yeah, thanks for that.
I listen to Durianrider’s advice 👍🇦🇺
You got a young girl friend too?
Hey i have a 12-24 T rear cassette, should i change for a 11-22? It is 20€
I would add to every few months reinstall the seatpost and front blades, especially if riding in all kinds of weather.
Once they get stuck you'll seriously regret not having done that before.
I'm one of those who didn't follow shimano instructions by installing a 32 cassette with a short cage derailleur meant for max 28T,
but never made the mistake of going big front and big back in the gears, so it "worked". After having the derailleur broke in an road accident,
replaced it with a long cage one of course.
I would be fine with my d-fuse sestpost getting stuck! Beats the slipping it always does now.