Always good to be reminded to ease back into training after a break. So easy to do too much too quickly and get injured. Great video, seemed like all the gym mic audio was right ear only when listening with headphones, might be a mic setting but also easy to fix in editing.
Yees took a lot of finger injuries on my side to understand to take it slow 😅 and yeaaah something went wrong when saving the audio during editing, it didn’t keep the changes…
Very nice video and clear explanations on your training and progress monitoring ! On video quality, just beware when you mix the sound, the voice is nicely centered on voice-overs but on the right when you speak in the gym. Maybe take a listen with headphones just to check before rendering ;) Thanks again!
Nice! Glad you're back into after putting in so much work. Did you do any weighted pulls/negatives or did you get back your one arm strength purely from climbing?
I used to do a looot of max weighted pull ups and assisted one arms so the one arm pull up did come from pure strength exercises. But for the past year or so i haven’t been doing any of that and mainly focusing on purely climbing and exercises on the wall which have helped me maintain that strength easily, even made me a bit stronger!
So good to see you back! 💪🏼 Do you have any tips for mental strength? I get discouraged pretty fast when I'm not getting the results I used to and I was wondering what it is that keeps you going :)
Thank youu! And regarding mental strength i think it’s really important to realize you can’t be at your top shape ALL the time. Your body is going to through ups and downs whether you want it to or not. And will progress faster some moments and slower others. After that, it’s mostly accepting it but also trusting the process that your body will bounce back! I also adapt my climbing to how i feel for example if i’m not feeling great, i won’t go try boulders i know i can do “easily” and maybe even change up some of my exercises. Writing down how i feel and react to certain things also helps me a lot!! Hope this helps but i’ll try to do a more in depth video on mental strength :))
Wait, so you suggest working on boulders "a few grades above your max"? Like.. above the max that I can send in one session? Or above the max that I ever finished? The latter would have me try the hardest boulders at the gym, which most of the time I can't even pull on the start or do any single move.
Definitely the max ever. A mix of limit bouldering and projecting is great for improvement! When you work on micro beta and get used to the moves there has been so many times moves that seemed impossible the first 2 sessions suddenly became very doable! Just dont set expectations on sending and enjoy the learning process
Yes max ever! Ideally, you should be able to move off from the moves but not necessarily make them. Even just trying to get into the start position and pulling as hard as you can is good and it’s by working on the singular moves bit by bit that everything slowly starts coming together! Im typically working on a 8b outdoors right now in which i couldn’t do most of the moves and after a couple sessions, i’ve got all the moves dialed in, just waiting for the send ahah hope this helps!
@@sofya_yokoyama Okay, I mean I can give it a try, why not. I typically do lots of V5 and V6 boulders and have like a project or two in the V7 - V8 range going that I work out over the course of multiple sessions, but I can typically do most or all of the moves in the first session and then work towards linking all of it together. Now you suggest I try something like V10. Sounds wild, but sure.. would definitely be a different experience. Thanks!
Awesome! You seemed to progress very well :) I think I am gonna try the max hangs you did for my next step, as my finger strength is probably my biggest weakness :D Also: Do you have any technical advice for achieving the one arm pull up? I think I have the strength, but I can not manage to get it done (atm I weigh 72 kg and after bouldering I can still do around 5 pull ups with 36 kg; max should be ~ 50 kg for 1 pull up)
Dont forget to take it slow if you start hangboarding with weight! Gradually add weight weekly and don't do too much! I hangboard 2x/week max with weight. And for one arm pull-up, i think what could be good to start trying so you can feel the technique is one arm pull-ups with elastic band. I used to do 3 reps for 3-5 sets which helped a lot in understanding the movement i do! Hope this helps :)
When one arm hanging off the beastmaker 2000 middle edge, do you intentionally choose the half crimp to train it or does it simply feel like the easiest way to hang for you and that's why you do it?
I intentionally do it to train it but it is also the easiest for me ahah i mainly climb half crimp so i think that's why but i'm also working on 3 finger open hand, it's just soooo much harder for me!
how often do you hangboard to maintain finger health? I'm thinking of following emil's daily program but not sure of how effective it is, especially after watching hooper's beta breakdown of his program
I haven't seen hooper's beta's video but at the moment I have some finger injuries so I do light hangs almost every warm-up! Only on climbing days and once day (so after a climbing warm up): I switch between longer hangs and an adapted version of Emil's hangs. For longer hangs, only 2x/week, 30s on, 1-2min off for 3 sets. And on days I don't do longer hangs, I do 10s on, 20s off for 5-10 sets! Not sure how efficient this is but I think any kind of light hangs is a great warm up for climbing and my fingers do feel better!
@Sofya you have already beaten the thundergod Thor. Surely a 1 arm is way beneath you 😂 Was the Thor video before or after the 1arm? You looked super strong in that video💪
“Getting old”? Pshht you’re like 25 right? Wait till you become an old man like me (29). lol Nice to see you took a mental health break too and came back super motivated to get strong again! Stay frosty, homie!
Hmm i think that might be hard, it took me a couple of years to build up the strength i have now ahah but it’ll definitely come if you start training it bit by bit!
@@ВиталикЛуцкий за месяц дошёл до подтягивания до глаз, но подбородок так и не преодолел, потом был отпуск потом другой и забросил все, сейчас потихоньку начал форму возвращать
great to see you getting back in your best shape 💪 bcs this way i'm sure we will see more of you in future comps, which is lovely 🥰🎉.
Yesss the plan is to do the whole bouldering season 😍
@@sofya_yokoyama well i cannot wait 🥳🌷
Looking strong!! All the best for the rest of the year 🤜🤛
Go you! Enjoy the process 💪
Nice video. Your strong enough to climb anything you put your mind too. Love watching you practicing onsight gym routes
Always good to be reminded to ease back into training after a break. So easy to do too much too quickly and get injured. Great video, seemed like all the gym mic audio was right ear only when listening with headphones, might be a mic setting but also easy to fix in editing.
Yees took a lot of finger injuries on my side to understand to take it slow 😅 and yeaaah something went wrong when saving the audio during editing, it didn’t keep the changes…
1:22 ahh, the famous "try to move your legs more, surely it will help" method. Tried and tested classic in my training.
Swimming in the air just to get a tiny bit higheeeer ahaha
Love love love the training videos. Reminds me that progress might be slow but it'll happen! Definitely going to add some campusing into my routine.
Yeess you got this!!
Very nice video and clear explanations on your training and progress monitoring !
On video quality, just beware when you mix the sound, the voice is nicely centered on voice-overs but on the right when you speak in the gym. Maybe take a listen with headphones just to check before rendering ;)
Thanks again!
you're great and inspiring as usual!
Cool to have you back!
This was a great progression Sofya! Keep rocking!
as you already said: trust the process :) 🤙
Thanks for sharing this 😁👍
a current warmup routine vid would be killer!
It's on the way!!
Nice wurk! And thank you for the motivation
We want video from your 1 chill month! 🎉
Always great video👏🏼
Nice! Glad you're back into after putting in so much work. Did you do any weighted pulls/negatives or did you get back your one arm strength purely from climbing?
Good question! I'm also interested to know.
I used to do a looot of max weighted pull ups and assisted one arms so the one arm pull up did come from pure strength exercises. But for the past year or so i haven’t been doing any of that and mainly focusing on purely climbing and exercises on the wall which have helped me maintain that strength easily, even made me a bit stronger!
Great process ❤🎉
Great comback!
What model are those north face pantss?
Muscle memory is a great thing! If you’ve gotten the strength before you can get it back really fast after a break. Nice job!
So good to see you back! 💪🏼
Do you have any tips for mental strength? I get discouraged pretty fast when I'm not getting the results I used to and I was wondering what it is that keeps you going :)
Thank youu! And regarding mental strength i think it’s really important to realize you can’t be at your top shape ALL the time. Your body is going to through ups and downs whether you want it to or not. And will progress faster some moments and slower others. After that, it’s mostly accepting it but also trusting the process that your body will bounce back! I also adapt my climbing to how i feel for example if i’m not feeling great, i won’t go try boulders i know i can do “easily” and maybe even change up some of my exercises. Writing down how i feel and react to certain things also helps me a lot!! Hope this helps but i’ll try to do a more in depth video on mental strength :))
Wait, so you suggest working on boulders "a few grades above your max"? Like.. above the max that I can send in one session? Or above the max that I ever finished? The latter would have me try the hardest boulders at the gym, which most of the time I can't even pull on the start or do any single move.
Definitely the max ever. A mix of limit bouldering and projecting is great for improvement! When you work on micro beta and get used to the moves there has been so many times moves that seemed impossible the first 2 sessions suddenly became very doable! Just dont set expectations on sending and enjoy the learning process
Yes max ever! Ideally, you should be able to move off from the moves but not necessarily make them. Even just trying to get into the start position and pulling as hard as you can is good and it’s by working on the singular moves bit by bit that everything slowly starts coming together! Im typically working on a 8b outdoors right now in which i couldn’t do most of the moves and after a couple sessions, i’ve got all the moves dialed in, just waiting for the send ahah hope this helps!
@@sofya_yokoyama Okay, I mean I can give it a try, why not. I typically do lots of V5 and V6 boulders and have like a project or two in the V7 - V8 range going that I work out over the course of multiple sessions, but I can typically do most or all of the moves in the first session and then work towards linking all of it together.
Now you suggest I try something like V10. Sounds wild, but sure.. would definitely be a different experience. Thanks!
🗽 One arm pull-up.... WOW. 👍💪
I'm happy to hang one one arm, but I'm much taller and have longer arms (more weight and a weaker lever)!
.
J’aurais tellement voulu te croiser à Totem Meyrin, j’ai trop le seum 🫠
J’y suis plus très souvent malheureusement avec l’entraînement qui a recommencé :(
Can you provide us with a list of your fav boulders to campus on the kilter board?
I usually invent my campus boulders on the kilter board!
Awesome! You seemed to progress very well :) I think I am gonna try the max hangs you did for my next step, as my finger strength is probably my biggest weakness :D
Also: Do you have any technical advice for achieving the one arm pull up? I think I have the strength, but I can not manage to get it done (atm I weigh 72 kg and after bouldering I can still do around 5 pull ups with 36 kg; max should be ~ 50 kg for 1 pull up)
Dont forget to take it slow if you start hangboarding with weight! Gradually add weight weekly and don't do too much! I hangboard 2x/week max with weight.
And for one arm pull-up, i think what could be good to start trying so you can feel the technique is one arm pull-ups with elastic band. I used to do 3 reps for 3-5 sets which helped a lot in understanding the movement i do! Hope this helps :)
@@sofya_yokoyama I will try all of that. Thank you so much!! :)
Best of luck for the bouldering season 💪
Is that captain yokoyami's return
When one arm hanging off the beastmaker 2000 middle edge, do you intentionally choose the half crimp to train it or does it simply feel like the easiest way to hang for you and that's why you do it?
I intentionally do it to train it but it is also the easiest for me ahah i mainly climb half crimp so i think that's why but i'm also working on 3 finger open hand, it's just soooo much harder for me!
Ty for the answer! You'll achieve the 3 finger open hand too😊
how often do you hangboard to maintain finger health? I'm thinking of following emil's daily program but not sure of how effective it is, especially after watching hooper's beta breakdown of his program
I haven't seen hooper's beta's video but at the moment I have some finger injuries so I do light hangs almost every warm-up! Only on climbing days and once day (so after a climbing warm up): I switch between longer hangs and an adapted version of Emil's hangs.
For longer hangs, only 2x/week, 30s on, 1-2min off for 3 sets. And on days I don't do longer hangs, I do 10s on, 20s off for 5-10 sets! Not sure how efficient this is but I think any kind of light hangs is a great warm up for climbing and my fingers do feel better!
anyone knows the name / location of the boulder at 6:20 ? looks dope !
Orgasmatron 8a in Maltatal, Austria :)
thank you !@@sofya_yokoyama
@Sofya you have already beaten the thundergod Thor. Surely a 1 arm is way beneath you 😂
Was the Thor video before or after the 1arm? You looked super strong in that video💪
Ahahah thanksss the video with thor was after my one arm 😝
how does a good warm-up look like?
I recently posted a video on my warm up :) th-cam.com/video/0ZQI5-0ZMhc/w-d-xo.html
“Getting old”? Pshht you’re like 25 right? Wait till you become an old man like me (29). lol
Nice to see you took a mental health break too and came back super motivated to get strong again! Stay frosty, homie!
The video plays only in right ear in the first minute approximately
Yee there was a problem with the audio when backing everything up and only noticed once the video was uploaded lol
@@sofya_yokoyama Don't worry about it. Still finished it to the end and it was a great video nontheless!
1:54 je me sens moins seul 😅
Can i learn 1 arm pull up in 1 month? 🤔
Hmm i think that might be hard, it took me a couple of years to build up the strength i have now ahah but it’ll definitely come if you start training it bit by bit!
@@sofya_yokoyama ok, challenge accepted
How's the progress?
@@ВиталикЛуцкий за месяц дошёл до подтягивания до глаз, но подбородок так и не преодолел, потом был отпуск потом другой и забросил все, сейчас потихоньку начал форму возвращать
Are you really that microscopic or are all the hangboards and bars wherever you go 3 m high? Who would do that? lol
loool well i am quite small but in these gyms especially the hangboards are super high ahaha
The first part of the video is really low volume sound.
Sounded good to me 🤔
Yeah the audio didn’t upload normally for some reason 😅