Another tip for getting the mounting holes aligned properly. Take the baseplate to a copy machine. You'll get a paper template you can punch and drill through. This works for a million other things you need accurate mounting holes for.
Yes, Except ...You'll still need to center the holes relative to the edge of the acrylic, and for that you'll still need a combination adjustable square. The advantage of Eric's method is that you don't risk drilling through the original baseplate and potentially wrecking that original part.
I am an experienced woodworker for 40+ years and it amazes me that I can watch one of your videos and still pick up a tip or two and learn something. Thanks for all you do. Oh, rather than using a "V" groove bit to center the center hole to the collet, you can use a 1/16th inch bit in your plunge router and just kiss the acrylic. Saves you from getting a bit you might not need.
Thank you, another good use of my time. I love that you don't just show us all the steps, you also explain the 'why' and 'why not' of the methods and techniques. Well done.
You do a fantastic job promoting wood working. I am reviewing some of your videos. Now I go to your website site first before continuing on my search for info etc. Great job Steve
The method of locating the screw holes that you suggest is great when you have an original and accurate sub-base to work with. In my case, I do not (only have a cheap-o "universal" base that is off by a good 1/32" or more.) My suggestion to anyone in a situation like mine (or worse, maybe you don't have ANY sub base to copy from!) is to obtain something called "transfer screws" threaded to the size of the holes in your router - they are like dowel center locators, but threaded, so they can be placed in screw holes. Stick these in your router's screw holes and you will get dead on marks for your drilling. Hope this helps someone.
Just wanted to say as a long time viewer of your videos, I really want to compliment you on how well you describe each step in each video. Just as I was taking the next step into my skills, I saw this video and although it was a few years old, I am glad I found it! Your step by step instructions were great in helping me feel confident in making my own base plate, thus saving me money in buying a universal fit base plate that generally isn't universal. I love your instructional videos and as Rockford Tech mentioned, you also explain the why's and why nots of the methods and techniques. Keep up the good work and those videos coming!
Brilliant presentation, your analysis and forward thinking pointers saves your followers from making a lot of simple mistakes. Keep up the great work....inspirational!
Well done, James! As a slightly more skilled than novice woodworker, I highly value your teaching videos. I am also eager to get your table saw videos you did with Woodsmith folks.
Fantastic! I didn’t realize that Rockler had the acrylic pieces. Now I know where to find them. I also like your method of centering the hole fore the router bit. As usual a very done video. Thanks.
just got a 1/4 small sheet of lexan to try making my own and this was a helpful video as i got the general idea but helped define some steps i will take. good stuff
Thanks - another great video (I loved the trick to find the center of the main hole). I found polycarbonate is better for that kind of applications, although it is something more expensive, it is much more scratch resistant than acrylic.
Ahoy, Mr. Nubs! Excellent video! For the bazillion times I've used my router I never thought of making my own base plate for a custom router application. I can see building some custom CD holders for my shelves.
I want to make a larger acrylic base plate for my router. How do I make the circular mortise cut so my guide bushing sits flush with bottom of the plate ?
James, Better than acrylic, The undisputed king of plastics...Micarta. Paper, Linen, and Canvas based micartas are nearly indestructible. They have a precision surface. You can cut threads in it. You can cut it with any wood working tools. No melting issues. No issues with solvents. I have been using Micartas for knife handles for years. The late Bob Loveless called it the best handle material you could buy.
Another (probably more accurate ) option for marking the mount holes would be a Vix bit. This is a drill bit which works like the centering punch, but drill a hole to give you a spot to start. These bits are made for marking holes for hinges and other hardware to receive screws.
Hi stumpy, I have a question. I am building a little router bench top. I am making my insert plate from 1/4 acrylic / plexiglass sheet. My router face / base plate is 6 1/8 inch round. What size is a good size to make the insert plate? I wa going to make 12 x 12 but I feel like it my be too big and might create a sag or bow. Is 12 x12 a good/ normal size or should I go smaller? Also how big should I make the hole for the bit to pass through?
The Big Green Shed (Bunnings) has this stuff in stock. I think it comes in 500x500 sheets from memory. Don't fall over when you see the price, it's not the cheapest stuff to buy.
Another great video. Your video explains perfectly how to drill into acrylic, but how do you cut it to different size for different application like your offset base plate?
If you want a shiny edge, use a scraper, and then if you wave a flame over the prepared edge, you can get it to smooth out like a factory supplied panel... Something I vaguely remember from my high school days in the 80's......
We use small laminate trimmers at in the furnishing workshop at the high school I work at. I have found most of the kids don't have the hand control to hold the trimmer perpendicular to the job and end up making very ordinary chamfers. I have made a base plate in acrylic (100x280mm) that extends out to allow a handle and more surface to sit on the timber. No more dodgy chamfers. Bonus is both of their hands are busy and no fingers near the cutter. (late last year one kid fed his hand into the opening of the base, chunking his thumb up. He had been trained, but ignored instruction as he knew best. He knows best now.)
Ha! FOUND it? Well and good, but the router in my case is MISSING the origiinal. No prob - I think I'll just draw it up in SketchUp and print out a template. Carry on!
You are free to use a drill if you have one in the size you need. A punch is more versatile, in my opinion, because you can then use any drill bit in your set.
This all great info but I am not a big fan of MDF due to it's water permeability. If there's even a CHANCE, spilled drink or rain, your MDF base will swell and warp. Coat it with clear varnish or something. Or use something more durable.
Yeah I think I'll stick with my Dremel for doing my hand routing, damn plunge router I bought made by Black & Decker is just too clunky and does not have a round base so making plates for it is nearly impossible. So I flipped it upside down and stuck it in a shop made table with a car jack for a router lift, I still have to reach under to change the bits but meh, you win some you lose some.
I went to Ace Hardware and asked for flat head router base screws (the smallest - shortest) I can find.. They didnt know the size! I have the DEWALT DW618PK and DEWALT DWP611PK where can I find them!
@@StumpyNubs I live outside the US, and when I visit my friends / family in US I can't bring my rounter(s)!! In my country we use "mm" and I could not find them here.
Another tip for getting the mounting holes aligned properly. Take the baseplate to a copy machine. You'll get a paper template you can punch and drill through. This works for a million other things you need accurate mounting holes for.
This comment needs more likes
Yes, Except ...You'll still need to center the holes relative to the edge of the acrylic, and for that you'll still need a combination adjustable square. The advantage of Eric's method is that you don't risk drilling through the original baseplate and potentially wrecking that original part.
Just tried it what a great tip!
When humans use 100% of their brain
@@tommccurnin524who's Eric?
I am an experienced woodworker for 40+ years and it amazes me that I can watch one of your videos and still pick up a tip or two and learn something. Thanks for all you do. Oh, rather than using a "V" groove bit to center the center hole to the collet, you can use a 1/16th inch bit in your plunge router and just kiss the acrylic. Saves you from getting a bit you might not need.
Thank you, another good use of my time. I love that you don't just show us all the steps, you also explain the 'why' and 'why not' of the methods and techniques. Well done.
You do a fantastic job promoting wood working. I am reviewing some of your videos. Now I go to your website site first before continuing on my search for info etc. Great job
Steve
The method of locating the screw holes that you suggest is great when you have an original and accurate sub-base to work with. In my case, I do not (only have a cheap-o "universal" base that is off by a good 1/32" or more.) My suggestion to anyone in a situation like mine (or worse, maybe you don't have ANY sub base to copy from!) is to obtain something called "transfer screws" threaded to the size of the holes in your router - they are like dowel center locators, but threaded, so they can be placed in screw holes. Stick these in your router's screw holes and you will get dead on marks for your drilling. Hope this helps someone.
Or similar to Eric Morrison's comment mentioned above, very gently place your router on the glass plate of a copier and make a paper copy of the base.
Just wanted to say as a long time viewer of your videos, I really want to compliment you on how well you describe each step in each video. Just as I was taking the next step into my skills, I saw this video and although it was a few years old, I am glad I found it! Your step by step instructions were great in helping me feel confident in making my own base plate, thus saving me money in buying a universal fit base plate that generally isn't universal. I love your instructional videos and as Rockford Tech mentioned, you also explain the why's and why nots of the methods and techniques. Keep up the good work and those videos coming!
Brilliant presentation, your analysis and forward thinking pointers saves your followers from making a lot of simple mistakes. Keep up the great work....inspirational!
Well done, James! As a slightly more skilled than novice woodworker, I highly value your teaching videos. I am also eager to get your table saw videos you did with Woodsmith folks.
I wish you did daily videos.... I love this channel.
Fantastic! I didn’t realize that Rockler had the acrylic pieces. Now I know where to find them. I also like your method of centering the hole fore the router bit. As usual a very done video. Thanks.
WB Fine Woodworking
Tap Plastics or any plastic supply store is a good source as well, and probably cheaper.
I got mine on amazon, they have lexan(polycarb) 12x12's for ~$12 prime shipped vs rockler's $18 for acrylic. Lexan is much stronger.
Ditto on tap plastics. You can get off-cuts out of a bin for about $1.25/lb.
just got a 1/4 small sheet of lexan to try making my own and this was a helpful video as i got the general idea but helped define some steps i will take. good stuff
What about adding guide bushings to a custom router plate?
Thanks - another great video (I loved the trick to find the center of the main hole). I found polycarbonate is better for that kind of applications, although it is something more expensive, it is much more scratch resistant than acrylic.
Hi, any ideas on how to add handles to the base plate to look like the big routers?
Thanks in advance.
Really useful video. Especially liked the method for getting the center hole accurately placed.
Ahoy, Mr. Nubs! Excellent video! For the bazillion times I've used my router I never thought of making my own base plate for a custom router application. I can see building some custom CD holders for my shelves.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful
How do you cut the hole in the middle (that the bit goes through) so that you can use a bushing, for offset work?
Great video Stumpy! Quick question - is that a 2:" forstner bit you are using to cut out the center hole?
You solved some of my problems, Thanks!
I want to make a larger acrylic base plate for my router. How do I make the circular mortise cut so my guide bushing sits flush with bottom of the plate ?
James, Better than acrylic, The undisputed king of plastics...Micarta. Paper, Linen, and Canvas based micartas are nearly indestructible. They have a precision surface. You can cut threads in it. You can cut it with any wood working tools. No melting issues. No issues with solvents. I have been using Micartas for knife handles for years. The late Bob Loveless called it the best handle material you could buy.
Andrew mcgibbon
Does it come in clear?
I use a self centering drill bit (or what is called a Vix-bit to align holes.
Very Helpful Video.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you. :))
This is a wonderful channel.
Another (probably more accurate ) option for marking the mount holes would be a Vix bit. This is a drill bit which works like the centering punch, but drill a hole to give you a spot to start. These bits are made for marking holes for hinges and other hardware to receive screws.
Right on stumpy. Right on.
Cheers Stumpy 👍🏻
Another great video, Stumpy! Keep 'em coming, sir. Really enjoy your channel.
Thanks chief.
Verry helping....🍻
So many good tips. Really looking forward to the upcoming router book
Hi James can you help is it OK to use a thinner than 1/4 inch base plate in acrylic
Yes, but if it is much larger than the router base you may have issues with it flexing or bending.
Thanks James. A very helpful tutorial for me.
Corian (solid surface) makes a good base plate
Hi stumpy, I have a question. I am building a little router bench top. I am making my insert plate from 1/4 acrylic / plexiglass sheet. My router face / base plate is 6 1/8 inch round. What size is a good size to make the insert plate? I wa going to make 12 x 12 but I feel like it my be too big and might create a sag or bow. Is 12 x12 a good/ normal size or should I go smaller? Also how big should I make the hole for the bit to pass through?
1/4 is a little thin. I would make the plate as small as possible to reduce bowing, as you said.
@@StumpyNubs thank you 🙏🏼
Can you buy plates ready made
GREAT... I will have to look for a supplier here in Australia
The Big Green Shed (Bunnings) has this stuff in stock. I think it comes in 500x500 sheets from memory. Don't fall over when you see the price, it's not the cheapest stuff to buy.
hmm either my Ryobi RE180PL didn't have a plastic base plate or been lost over the years.. So whats the next step to make a custom base plate
Another great video James. Thank you for sharing.
Another nice video. Thanks James!
Tried to find the flat screws, but can't.
Where do you recommend?
Any hardware store will have flat-head screws. But if you only have the round head screws, the video explains how to use them instead.
@@StumpyNubs the flat heads I'm seeing are for wood. I went online and found what you recommended. Thanks and keep them videos for us newbies coming.
A good free source of quality acrylic can be found in your old computer monitor.
where do i find the plans for your circle jig ?? i looked in your list of videos and couldn't find any plans or a video about it
Another great project for me to do thanks great idea.
Another great video. Your video explains perfectly how to drill into acrylic, but how do you cut it to different size for different application like your offset base plate?
Acrylic can be cut with a band saw, scroll saw or even a handheld jig/saber with a fine tooth blade. Sand the edges a bit and you're done.
If you want a shiny edge, use a scraper, and then if you wave a flame over the prepared edge, you can get it to smooth out like a factory supplied panel... Something I vaguely remember from my high school days in the 80's......
That was grouse work mate thank you
I like your strait forward info , TY
This is gold! Thanks!
Do you have the rockler acrylic plate part number? I cant find it on their web site
You can grind the cutting edge form your bit and the acrylic will not split and de bit wil not grip
We use small laminate trimmers at in the furnishing workshop at the high school I work at. I have found most of the kids don't have the hand control to hold the trimmer perpendicular to the job and end up making very ordinary chamfers.
I have made a base plate in acrylic (100x280mm) that extends out to allow a handle and more surface to sit on the timber. No more dodgy chamfers. Bonus is both of their hands are busy and no fingers near the cutter. (late last year one kid fed his hand into the opening of the base, chunking his thumb up. He had been trained, but ignored instruction as he knew best. He knows best now.)
AKA Nathan that's racist
Bo: How so?
Thanks
Thanks a lot, Muchas gracias 😊👍🏻
Great Stuff! Thanks!!
Thank you
Ha! FOUND it? Well and good, but the router in my case is MISSING the origiinal. No prob - I think I'll just draw it up in SketchUp and print out a template.
Carry on!
Why self centering punch rather than self centering drill?
You are free to use a drill if you have one in the size you need. A punch is more versatile, in my opinion, because you can then use any drill bit in your set.
@@StumpyNubs Vix bit to mark then any size to drill.
Great info
This all great info but I am not a big fan of MDF due to it's water permeability. If there's even a CHANCE, spilled drink or rain, your MDF base will swell and warp. Coat it with clear varnish or something. Or use something more durable.
It rains in your shop?
I watched this because I just bought a base plate and forgot that I have both acrylic and a laser, but wanted to see how you made it.
Nice
Yeah I think I'll stick with my Dremel for doing my hand routing, damn plunge router I bought made by Black & Decker is just too clunky and does not have a round base so making plates for it is nearly impossible. So I flipped it upside down and stuck it in a shop made table with a car jack for a router lift, I still have to reach under to change the bits but meh, you win some you lose some.
I went to Ace Hardware and asked for flat head router base screws (the smallest - shortest) I can find.. They didnt know the size! I have the DEWALT DW618PK and DEWALT DWP611PK where can I find them!
Take you router to the store and try some until you find one that fits.
@@StumpyNubs I live outside the US, and when I visit my friends / family in US I can't bring my rounter(s)!! In my country we use "mm" and I could not find them here.
Routers really scare me. I’ve never even used mine, but I think I’d feel more confident with a larger base plate like that. :)
Ian Enderby go and check out Samurai Carpenter for his base plate. Simple and easy.
Shawn Broadbent yes, I’ve seen that one and really like it. Especially for mortising.
Scroll saw what? Packs?
Great tip!
Routers aren't so bad. It's the angle grinders that make me cringe. And to think, some people use those without the shield in place... :: shudder::
👍