You know I like this video because it's unvarnished and shows exactly what I run into when I make my projects... there's no need for a blooper reel at the end of this video. With all sincerity, I enjoyed the video and if I ever make a baseplate for my router I will be sure to take careful notes so I don't drill the wrong sized hole in my baseplate (LOL 😁)
Thanks, and you got that right. This video was ready to go out about 2 weeks ago, and I thought of "one more thing", which lead me down another 2 weeks of bumbling and stumbling... 😏
At 20:36 you can ensure the large centre hole you make with the Forstner is centred - just insert your 1/4" pivot guide into the drill chuck and use it to align the centre of the work piece with the chuck. The remove the pivot guide, chuck the Forstner and drill. Just make sure the workpiece doesn't move once you have aligned it!
I stumbled on this channel by happy accident. I'm a retired electrical engineer trying my hand at some completely different skills in my new found free time. Woodworking is one of my new passions distracting me from my impending demise. Anyway, I have been building up a new tool set after moving aside a few scopes and meters. I got an old router the same way I get many of my toys, "It doesn't work but if you can fix it, it's yours." Naturally, I can make an electric motor work like new. But this router had been mounted under a table and it had no base plate. First I looked online for parts but as it is a Sears Craftsman, none are to be found. I thought about buying a universal one on Amazon but was quickly convince I could make one of better quality myself. So being an engineer, I designed one in Fusion 360 and printed it on my 3D printer. It turned out to be a successful experiment. I have gathered loads of useful data on what materials do not make for a good router base plate. And, as it turns out, many of them are the 3D printer filaments I have. The manufacturing methodology is not the best case for the operating environment of a router either. It was always either too soft, too brittle, too fragile to be of much use. Even if I used polycarbonate filament it would not have the structural strength of the sheets you can buy. The additive manufacturing process of a small FFF printer will always have those layer line to serve as points of weakness and fracture. I thoroughly enjoyed this video and the style in which it was presented, a very personable fellow. I expect I will be binge watching now to catch up on past videos. Anyway, this was just me rambling about my related experience because that is another thing I do with all of this free time I have.
That's awesome! First off, I always wished I understood electrical engineering more thoroughly (or at all), so you've got a great leg up on a lot of us. Cool idea about 3D printing the router base, but I'm not surprised you had issues. Personally, if it were me, I'd keep it in a router table and buy (or "acquire") another router for handheld operations - probably a trim router. A router table is very useful, and I use mine a lot more than I do my handheld router. Have fun!!
I love your channel ❤️ From the day 1, I had decided to get into wood working, your video was the first one I saw. Later, when I started working in actual, all of your tips and tricks along with mistakes started making sense and still they are. I also have almost similar tools you have in videos. More power to you 🤘
Some very clever ideas for sure! One thing for me is I hardly use activator, I find CA glue works better when it has a little chance to soak into the wood. I only spray it on the ooze out if I put too much glue on so it doesn't get on my fingers.
great videos, love your explanation and use of 3d! I will say as someone from the uk the imperial system sounds utterly mad! 3/5th of an inch minus 2/15th of an inch take away the inch and 3/4 to ahhhhhh my brain is melting :D
Thanks. And LOL - your brain's melting because we don't measure in "5th"s. Multiples of 2: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, etc. Isn't that much easier? (I'm kidding - I know it isn't.)
You gotta love the dang Brits for handing off such a lousy system of measurements to us. At least they had the sense to switch to something better when the SI system came around.
No, but I plan on working on it soon. But check out this video, which is close to what I'll be doing: th-cam.com/video/i1QU7qVm7tQ/w-d-xo.html. You don't need a "piano hinge" if you don't want to get one - 2 or 3 regular small hinges will do the trick.
Re the square baseplate, if you make another one that you know is square, mark one edge - 0, then remove 1mm off the next edge, 2 mm off the next and 3mm off the last edge (marked- 1, 2 & 3). This way you can make incremental adjustments to a dado without moving the fence. If you live in Myanmar, Liberia or the U.S. of A. you can opt for sixteenth inch, eighth inch or any other old imperial measurement you wish. Metric is so much easier. BTW I'm 70 yrs so still think in feet and inches but use metric in all my work. 👍 😎
@@SMee67 In my defense, I had my mind on other things. What those things were, I have no recollection. 😄We've been doing good, in spite of, well, everything.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker 😆😆😆😆 It's definitely been a long one, mate. Happy to hear you're all doing well in these bat sh¡t crazy times. Take care buddy.🤙🏽
@@SMee67 You know, these really are bat sh;t crazy times. So many people are so angry, and think people with different beliefs are not only the enemy, but the devil incarnate. Civility, honesty and integrity are words unknown to so many people these days. It truly breaks my heart. Anyway, thanks for always being around and chiming in. I appreciate it. And sorry for the ramble there. 😄
did that Harbor Freight work well. I was looking at a 1 hp Bosch Colt but if I could save money on the Harbor Freight ....well all the better Thank you
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thank you that saved me a lot of guesswork. I'm looking at makita and bosch just hobby and shop work but I want to buy only once. Appreciate it
@@TheNewbieWoodworker One thing I wanted to know also is Would the bosch 1 hp or bosch 1.25 or the ridgid work well for an intermidiate router I already have a PC for a bench router. Thank you
Should I stay away from doing this if I don’t have a drill press? I already screwed up a plastic base plate by having the drill bit wander ever so slightly
@@doncripemc3certifiedsr.med326 I'm still confused. Are you talking about the clear plastic dust shroud on the router, or the way the hose attaches to it? Something else?
I have to be honest. When I make a mistake, thinking 🤔 I planned correctly 🤔. Sometimes I just stop ✋ and ponder Sometimes over night 😴. Oh, well. By the way, what state are you in ?. Thanks for what you do.
I don't even trust those notification settings anymore. I have another TH-cam channel that's subscribed to this one, and I can't get it to receive notifications at all. Makes me wonder how many other people have this problem? But have fun catching up. 😄
Just a piece of advice and I know you mentioned "do as I say, not as I do". Power tools should never be used to start a machined screw.. JUST DONT DO IT. Ask me how I know! Even at a clutch setting of 1 or a very weak 12v screw driver you can start a cross thread of a screw in a hole and every time you go to use that machined screw hole you have to fight with that attempt for your screw to go in the wrong way. ALWAYS start machine screws by hand or hand tool or learn the hard way!
That is one of my pet peeves. Drills are for drilling, screwdrivers are for fun. I'm sure you get the movie reference. Anyway, I've always believed in using the correct tool for the job, that what they are made for.
To save a lot of stuffing about why not just put the base plate on the wood and drill the holes where the screws go and one in the centre for the bit.. why make it harder than it has to be ?? I made mine out of perspex sheet so I can see through the sheet to see the wood underneath and the lines I have on the job. If there is no base plate put 4 bolts into the holes and some paint/texta on the ends then place it onto the wood and tap down.. job done then just drill holes.. simple hey ??
The only thing that matters is to have it cut the same distance from the side, no matter which side you use. If you're off by as little as 1/32" on a side, it can make as much as 1/16" difference in the cut, and when you're cutting dados to fit, that can really make a difference. But other than that, use whatever method works for you.
I apologize.... this isn't about the Router. I notice on your Drill press, your dust collection inlet hose seems rigid or semi rigid even though it is flex hose. My system is similar, but the hose(s) flop around and are hard to direct. I am interested in how you keep yours in place when in use in different positions. Don
Ah, now I understand. Yes, it does flop around, but I twist it so it lies on the drill press table. Here's a video on it that I think will answer your question: th-cam.com/video/cjdX4k6rsFI/w-d-xo.html
All these videos are a lot of work to make a base for the guide bushing. I did for my Makita Plunge router on my new laser I got and it worked great.. The thing I can new ones very easily now that I have the template. If you want a different shape jig you would need to repeat at this process again.. It is a lot of work.. Look how I made this very quick. th-cam.com/video/UR3y3g4bIhE/w-d-xo.html
I absolutely love these videos! Plus the sexual innuendos with the voice inflections on the end like if you get it you get it if you don't no one will know. I laughed about 15 times during this video! Love your sense of humor in these! Thanks for the amazing content! Idea, I was thinking on the square router baseplate you could cut a small bandsaw width cut 1/16 thick right in the center of each side of the baseplate. You could make the cut straight up and down or put them at 45 degree so deeper on the top less on the bottom. Images for visual 45 Degree Cut - 3bit.ca/ffxta3ac or straight cut 3bit.ca/y5ijxajm Your edges would remain square and this would give you kind of a view port to see the cut line through it. You could then use your router with baseplate on it with no bit in it and these cuts to center it on your cut line and then use the edge of your baseplate to setup your edge guide jig instead of needing to measure. i guess you could also use a pencil mark on the side of the baseplate also but you would have to look at both sides from either angle not just top down view it and see it. You did solve this though with your previous video on how to make a guide using the cut line and a flip up hinged piece of wood here th-cam.com/video/-Gh08iho1lw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, Steve, and you're absolutely right about my voice inflections - that's exactly what I'm thinking. 😄 And actually, I really appreciate your mentioning that you get it. It's nice to have that in the back of my mind when I'm recording stuff like this. Regarding your idea, you've got to be an engineer of some sort, because that's some serious brainstorming. You should absolutely play around with that kind of stuff. It's so much fun to make things the way you think they should be made. And then using them becomes such a satisfying experience. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker It's the way my brain thinks, always trying to improve things. I love these videos I don't even have a router (but its on my list)! Thanks again for the content!
You know I like this video because it's unvarnished and shows exactly what I run into when I make my projects... there's no need for a blooper reel at the end of this video. With all sincerity, I enjoyed the video and if I ever make a baseplate for my router I will be sure to take careful notes so I don't drill the wrong sized hole in my baseplate (LOL 😁)
Thanks, and you got that right. This video was ready to go out about 2 weeks ago, and I thought of "one more thing", which lead me down another 2 weeks of bumbling and stumbling... 😏
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Yep... that "one more thing" can be a deep rabbit hole... or as I say in woodworking speak: it's a deep Rabbet Pocket Hole...
@@raymitchell9736 LOL! Good one!
Thx Dan, for all the work making the video and working out the mistakes we would make and helping us avoid them!
Thanks - I really did have to work out a bunch of mistakes! 😄
I love seeing a new video from you and I’m glad you don’t post daily/ weekly because when you upload one, I know there is meat on the bones!
@@anneoreilly4900 Thanks, and I really appreciate that. Trying to get a video out more often, regularly, would just feel too much like work. 😄
At 20:36 you can ensure the large centre hole you make with the Forstner is centred - just insert your 1/4" pivot guide into the drill chuck and use it to align the centre of the work piece with the chuck. The remove the pivot guide, chuck the Forstner and drill. Just make sure the workpiece doesn't move once you have aligned it!
Thanks for the info! 👍
I stumbled on this channel by happy accident. I'm a retired electrical engineer trying my hand at some completely different skills in my new found free time. Woodworking is one of my new passions distracting me from my impending demise. Anyway, I have been building up a new tool set after moving aside a few scopes and meters. I got an old router the same way I get many of my toys, "It doesn't work but if you can fix it, it's yours." Naturally, I can make an electric motor work like new. But this router had been mounted under a table and it had no base plate. First I looked online for parts but as it is a Sears Craftsman, none are to be found. I thought about buying a universal one on Amazon but was quickly convince I could make one of better quality myself. So being an engineer, I designed one in Fusion 360 and printed it on my 3D printer. It turned out to be a successful experiment. I have gathered loads of useful data on what materials do not make for a good router base plate. And, as it turns out, many of them are the 3D printer filaments I have. The manufacturing methodology is not the best case for the operating environment of a router either. It was always either too soft, too brittle, too fragile to be of much use. Even if I used polycarbonate filament it would not have the structural strength of the sheets you can buy. The additive manufacturing process of a small FFF printer will always have those layer line to serve as points of weakness and fracture.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video and the style in which it was presented, a very personable fellow. I expect I will be binge watching now to catch up on past videos. Anyway, this was just me rambling about my related experience because that is another thing I do with all of this free time I have.
That's awesome! First off, I always wished I understood electrical engineering more thoroughly (or at all), so you've got a great leg up on a lot of us. Cool idea about 3D printing the router base, but I'm not surprised you had issues. Personally, if it were me, I'd keep it in a router table and buy (or "acquire") another router for handheld operations - probably a trim router. A router table is very useful, and I use mine a lot more than I do my handheld router. Have fun!!
this is the best video i have seen showing how to do this,, thanks
Thanks, that means a lot! Glad I could help. 😄
I’m loving the base plates and your complete process of making them.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Love your work the humor adds to the video look forward to seeing more Danial
Thanks! I appreciate it! 🙂
you have a new subscriber Sir from Ireland i bet you are a great grandfather love your voice Sir thanks for the great videos
Thanks, and welcome aboard! 👍
I have had a Workmate for over 40 ears. It has served me well.
Yep, great product. I just used mine again a few days ago, and everytime I use it, I'm so grateful I have it. 😄
Many thanks for this. Used your method to make a new base plate for both my trim router as well as my regular router.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
Here in the UK, the vast majority of our router bits still use imperial measurement - so you're good there. Great video, Dan!
Thanks. I suspected that was the case, but I wasn't sure. Besides, that was a cool map. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Certainly was. God bless Myanmar and Liberia 🤣
@@richardclarke9966 😂
I love your channel ❤️ From the day 1, I had decided to get into wood working, your video was the first one I saw. Later, when I started working in actual, all of your tips and tricks along with mistakes started making sense and still they are. I also have almost similar tools you have in videos. More power to you 🤘
That's awesome! Thanks for letting me know I'm helping. Sometimes, we all need affirmation. 🙂
This vid really rocks. Listen up guys. Thank You!
Thanks! 😄
This is a great video. Thanks for sharing and taking your time to make the video.
Thanks, Hans, and you're quite welcome. 😄
Thumbs up for the Office Space reference!
😄
LOL Nobody does double entendre quite like you, Dan! I re-watch your DIY knobs video sometimes just for the laughs!
LOL, thanks. One of these days I'll let myself go and just let it all out. You'd be amazed at how much I restrain myself. 😄
Some very clever ideas for sure!
One thing for me is I hardly use activator, I find CA glue works better when it has a little chance to soak into the wood. I only spray it on the ooze out if I put too much glue on so it doesn't get on my fingers.
Thanks for the info! 😄
Very nice. Thanks for your hard work on this tutorial.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
Hi Dan, A lot of work just to correct one point. Well done for doing it. Take care Dan. Cheers, Huw
Thanks. It was mostly just so I wouldn't have to deal with people pointing out the mistake for the rest of my life. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker 🤣🤣👍👍 Cheers, Huw
@@WoodenItBeNice 👍
As ever, excellent in all aspects. Thanks.🇬🇧😷
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Thank you for that tip. I am going to make mine with plexiglass so I can see right through.
That's a good idea. Let me know how it works.
Ok, I will.
@@lynnerockiecreations 👍
Great explanations Dan!
Thanks! 😄
perfect guide, not to short
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
great videos, love your explanation and use of 3d! I will say as someone from the uk the imperial system sounds utterly mad! 3/5th of an inch minus 2/15th of an inch take away the inch and 3/4 to ahhhhhh my brain is melting :D
Thanks. And LOL - your brain's melting because we don't measure in "5th"s. Multiples of 2: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, etc. Isn't that much easier? (I'm kidding - I know it isn't.)
You gotta love the dang Brits for handing off such a lousy system of measurements to us. At least they had the sense to switch to something better when the SI system came around.
Thanks Dan. Thorough and useful as usual. Dan. I am having trouble finding your hinged router jig video. Does it still exist?
No, but I plan on working on it soon. But check out this video, which is close to what I'll be doing: th-cam.com/video/i1QU7qVm7tQ/w-d-xo.html. You don't need a "piano hinge" if you don't want to get one - 2 or 3 regular small hinges will do the trick.
Re the square baseplate, if you make another one that you know is square, mark one edge - 0, then remove 1mm off the next edge, 2 mm off the next and 3mm off the last edge (marked- 1, 2 & 3). This way you can make incremental adjustments to a dado without moving the fence.
If you live in Myanmar, Liberia or the U.S. of A. you can opt for sixteenth inch, eighth inch or any other old imperial measurement you wish. Metric is so much easier. BTW I'm 70 yrs so still think in feet and inches but use metric in all my work. 👍 😎
Good tips. Thanks!
You could use a Vix bit for the screw holes on the base plate
I have some of those, but I didn't want to drill the holes until later.
excellent and helpful info! Thanks!
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Yes! Office space reference.
Have you finished the TPS report yet? If not, you're gonna have to come in on the weekend. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker mmmkay
@@LongIslandBK 😂
One small recommendation seal the base plate with poly or lacquer
But only if it doesn't end up sticky. It needs to slide smoothly. But you probably already know that. 😄
Great Info!!! Thank You!!! 👍😎
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Thank you, great video.
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
That was a pretty full on video covering all bases! 😉
Fantastic effort there, mate, pardon the pun^ up ^there!😆
Oh brother! And what's worse is, I didn't get it until you pointed it out. 😄 And thanks.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker
😆😆bwahahahaha😆😆
You slipping in the humour department, Dan? 😉
You're usually all over it.... 🤙🏽
How have you been keeping, mate?
@@SMee67 In my defense, I had my mind on other things. What those things were, I have no recollection. 😄We've been doing good, in spite of, well, everything.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker
😆😆😆😆
It's definitely been a long one, mate.
Happy to hear you're all doing well in these bat sh¡t crazy times.
Take care buddy.🤙🏽
@@SMee67 You know, these really are bat sh;t crazy times. So many people are so angry, and think people with different beliefs are not only the enemy, but the devil incarnate. Civility, honesty and integrity are words unknown to so many people these days. It truly breaks my heart. Anyway, thanks for always being around and chiming in. I appreciate it. And sorry for the ramble there. 😄
How did you make the illustrations? nice job by the way.
Thanks! I use SketchUp.
did that Harbor Freight work well. I was looking at a 1 hp Bosch Colt but if I could save money on the Harbor Freight ....well all the better Thank you
I wouldn't recommend it. I'm using this Makita cordless one now, and I absolutely love it. amzn.to/3PdcC6d
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thank you that saved me a lot of guesswork. I'm looking at makita and bosch just hobby and shop work but I want to buy only once. Appreciate it
@@dgale1023 Glad to help. The Makita has been a great purchase.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker One thing I wanted to know also is Would the bosch 1 hp or bosch 1.25 or the ridgid work well for an intermidiate router I already have a PC for a bench router. Thank you
@@dgale1023 Honestly, I'm not sure.
Should I stay away from doing this if I don’t have a drill press? I already screwed up a plastic base plate by having the drill bit wander ever so slightly
Possibly, although you can help keep the drill bit from wandering from using a punch first, or even drill a small hole first.
How is your dust collection held in place?
Which part of it?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker where the inlet hovers over the table near the bit.
@@doncripemc3certifiedsr.med326 I'm still confused. Are you talking about the clear plastic dust shroud on the router, or the way the hose attaches to it? Something else?
need to know if you have a base plate that fits a makita plunge base and will attach to a festool L32 guide plate #494340 thanx rick
No clue. Sorry.
Wow I could swear I see this before... I know i'm old but I do remember the Shaft, it looks the same... Lol
Thanks for the second video... LMAO
LLAP
Nope, this one is new. Must be your imagination. 😛
I have to be honest. When I make a mistake, thinking 🤔 I planned correctly 🤔. Sometimes I just stop ✋ and ponder Sometimes over night 😴. Oh, well. By the way, what state are you in ?.
Thanks for what you do.
Yeah, me too. I'm in Southern California, near Disneyland.
Long time since I been here. Why? Forgot to use The notification settings.. got lot to catch up with here😁.
I don't even trust those notification settings anymore. I have another TH-cam channel that's subscribed to this one, and I can't get it to receive notifications at all. Makes me wonder how many other people have this problem? But have fun catching up. 😄
It must be the bilderberger group 🤪😁
@@normandhalv 😂
Wow Dan. This wore me out just watching it. LOL
😂
Just a piece of advice and I know you mentioned "do as I say, not as I do". Power tools should never be used to start a machined screw.. JUST DONT DO IT. Ask me how I know! Even at a clutch setting of 1 or a very weak 12v screw driver you can start a cross thread of a screw in a hole and every time you go to use that machined screw hole you have to fight with that attempt for your screw to go in the wrong way. ALWAYS start machine screws by hand or hand tool or learn the hard way!
Yeah, I know. My bad. 😄
That is one of my pet peeves. Drills are for drilling, screwdrivers are for fun. I'm sure you get the movie reference. Anyway, I've always believed in using the correct tool for the job, that what they are made for.
Why the reupload?
I got one of the conversions to millimeters wrong, and I knew I'd be hearing about it for the rest of my life. 😏
@@TheNewbieWoodworker it's always the Math! XD
@@BrucesWorldofStuff You got that right!
Hey Dan, how you doing lately we need your videos. Please make some new videos if you can
Thanks. I'm taking an extend break, but I'm fine.
To save a lot of stuffing about why not just put the base plate on the wood and drill the holes where the screws go and one in the centre for the bit.. why make it harder than it has to be ?? I made mine out of perspex sheet so I can see through the sheet to see the wood underneath and the lines I have on the job. If there is no base plate put 4 bolts into the holes and some paint/texta on the ends then place it onto the wood and tap down.. job done then just drill holes.. simple hey ??
The only thing that matters is to have it cut the same distance from the side, no matter which side you use. If you're off by as little as 1/32" on a side, it can make as much as 1/16" difference in the cut, and when you're cutting dados to fit, that can really make a difference. But other than that, use whatever method works for you.
I apologize.... this isn't about the Router. I notice on your Drill press, your dust collection inlet hose seems rigid or semi rigid even though it is flex hose. My system is similar, but the hose(s) flop around and are hard to direct. I am interested in how you keep yours in place when in use in different positions.
Don
Ah, now I understand. Yes, it does flop around, but I twist it so it lies on the drill press table. Here's a video on it that I think will answer your question: th-cam.com/video/cjdX4k6rsFI/w-d-xo.html
@@TheNewbieWoodworker thanx. I will shop.
@@doncripemc3certifiedsr.med326 👍
Here’s another method: scan the metal base, print 1-1 and fix the print out onto the base. 1200 dpi should be more than enough.
Good idea - thanks!
Gees - had to take a nap between chapters. Information overload.
The video is targeted at newbies, so that's why I included so much detail.
All these videos are a lot of work to make a base for the guide bushing. I did for my Makita Plunge router on my new laser I got and it worked great.. The thing I can new ones very easily now that I have the template. If you want a different shape jig you would need to repeat at this process again.. It is a lot of work.. Look how I made this very quick. th-cam.com/video/UR3y3g4bIhE/w-d-xo.html
My channel is for newbies, and people who own laser cutters probably don't fall into that category. Thanks for the info, though.
I absolutely love these videos! Plus the sexual innuendos with the voice inflections on the end like if you get it you get it if you don't no one will know. I laughed about 15 times during this video! Love your sense of humor in these! Thanks for the amazing content!
Idea, I was thinking on the square router baseplate you could cut a small bandsaw width cut 1/16 thick right in the center of each side of the baseplate. You could make the cut straight up and down or put them at 45 degree so deeper on the top less on the bottom. Images for visual 45 Degree Cut - 3bit.ca/ffxta3ac or straight cut 3bit.ca/y5ijxajm Your edges would remain square and this would give you kind of a view port to see the cut line through it. You could then use your router with baseplate on it with no bit in it and these cuts to center it on your cut line and then use the edge of your baseplate to setup your edge guide jig instead of needing to measure. i guess you could also use a pencil mark on the side of the baseplate also but you would have to look at both sides from either angle not just top down view it and see it. You did solve this though with your previous video on how to make a guide using the cut line and a flip up hinged piece of wood here th-cam.com/video/-Gh08iho1lw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, Steve, and you're absolutely right about my voice inflections - that's exactly what I'm thinking. 😄 And actually, I really appreciate your mentioning that you get it. It's nice to have that in the back of my mind when I'm recording stuff like this.
Regarding your idea, you've got to be an engineer of some sort, because that's some serious brainstorming. You should absolutely play around with that kind of stuff. It's so much fun to make things the way you think they should be made. And then using them becomes such a satisfying experience. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker It's the way my brain thinks, always trying to improve things. I love these videos I don't even have a router (but its on my list)! Thanks again for the content!
@@steve_main 👍