Usually just replacing the cable ends at the battery with OE style solves everything(Right Angled Copper Tube Terminals). The fuse box cable easily replaced and retighten. The main ALT/STARTER cable cut the end from the OE terminal, crimp the new one and move it to the free/unused stud at the positive battery terminal. The negative ones suffer as well, cut both ends, crimp connector, remove battery terminal drill and install stud, tighten new cables and all good. I quit uploading videos a while ago but i think i made a similar video doing exactly that, showing Voltage drop across all the terminals and thermal imaging.
Yes,this is good too, provided 1. there is enough slack in the cables and 2. one knows how to fit cable ends and has the tools (which I do, but most won't)
Hi Cyd. I have not had any problems starting my 1.9 tid Z19TDH, but after watching your vid, I am going to give it a once over. I am sure when I was underneath and noticed some earth points chassis to engine were in need of some TLC.
Brilliant timing Cid with this video. Had this problem since I bought my SAAB three years ago, voltage drain even after new battery and alternator. Just changed my rear anti roll bar bushes yesterday following your video on that job. Thanks for another great upload, Vinny. 😊
Brilliant! A common problem on these SAABs! I have planned this job on my SAAB 9-3X TTiD from 2010 since I am experiencing the same issues, might as well get to it, got inspired after seeing you do it. But I will have to do a different wiring since mine is a diesel. Thanks for all the good videos!
Hi cyd. Maybe a silly question, but, before I order the cables. ( I have the exact car you have)You mention one cable will be 16 mm and the other 25mm and different lengths.( one cable is 60” , one is 48” and one is 9”) What length and width is the alternator and the same question about the starter motor Cheers Daren
The description '16mm' or '25mm' refers to the cross sectional area (csa) of the cable. I used 16mm (~5awg) for battery link and alternator (9" and 60" long resp) and 25mm (~3awg) for the starter (48" long). HTH
Use a small syringe to put about 1-2 grams of silicone grease into the barrel and then run the key in and out and turn it a few times. Or buy it in these small 10g tubes,which are excellent for the job (and great for precision lube of coils and cycle chains) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlCZHZ1
@CycloneCyd would it be possible to make a video on how to change the rear brake pads and discs on a Seat Ibiza 6J? I really enjoyed your video about changing the front pads and discs and would highly benefit from knowing how to do the rear with winding the piston back in and the steps to take to do it. Love your videos by the way, really helped me out! Thanks
Unfortunately my son's Ibiza got written off when a Merc SUV slammed into the rear of it. However, watch these two videos about rear brake pads. they are on the Saab but the process is almost identical on the Ibiza (and it is clockwise too). th-cam.com/video/I2bjrobr1T4/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/rZERGwhQIBU/w-d-xo.html ... I've got a feeling though, that you don't need to remove the caliper carrier to change the discs, so try without removing first.
Not yet! But a few weeks ago I did get round to fitting the Direnza one I got. It was a right task. It was meant to fit in the stock position between the condensor and rad, but I fitted it at the front. I was able to use the stock hoses but the IC was only a few mm narrower than the gap between the headlights. I had to cut off one of the fixing lugs to get it in.having got it in, it works great.
I've had a lot of trouble with my exhaust, so i bought a Scanifab 200 cell cat and 3" mid pipe and took the car to MIJ in Walsall. They fitted the Scanifab parts for me and then fabricated a custom SS zorst onto the car (2.5" all the way). I've also had the gasket from ex mani to turbo break and blow twice since having my new cyl head fitted. Now it's all working again, i shalln't be touching the exhaust system again if I can help it.
Do you have a video on cleaning the throttle body or how to remove it/ replacing air boots (as the old 15 year old rubber will probably break once i touch it). Thanks
@@CycloneCyd my 2007 saab 9-3 2.0T has a rubber intake (air) boot on top of the throttle opening (where you get to the butterfly valve). What do you call it? Is yours not rubber? Then the other piece that brings air to the throttle body (off to the right by the battery) is also looking fragile on mine. Do you know the part numbers or where to get the air delivery pieces that go to the throttle body opening? If they are really stuck and melted on there, should I just cut them off? It is beyond stuck currently! Hose clamp broke and the piece is still on the throttle rock solid with no clamp. (Which might be a good thing for now until i get a replacement and figure out how to get it off) Thanks. TH-cam won't let me reply with pictures. I guess I could try to make a video showing it. Lol.
@@georgeponzoni3554 AH HA! i THINK THE LIGHT BULB HAS COME ON. i THINK WHEN YOU SAY 'BOOT' YOU ARE REFERRING TO THE AIR DELIVERY HOSE aH, BUGGER, i'VE ACCIDENTALLY GOT CAPS ON. Turned it off but not retyping that Do you mean this hose: th-cam.com/video/N5RPSTi1ClU/w-d-xo.html
@@CycloneCyd yes those! Air delivery hose. People call those intake boots or air boots here in New York. (As they are normally an L shape like a boot for your feet). Anyway, Mine is really stuck on and hose clamps rusty.! Might have to use a razor blade or something to get it off. Any suggestions? I will look into ordering your silicone replacement. Better than rubber?
@@georgeponzoni3554 oh yes, much better. Measure the hose clamp diameters at each end and get new SS while you're waiting for it. Don't cut the old one off til you have your new one, lol! Use a smear of silicone grease on the inside when putting it on. I'm liking the blue hoses, what colour are you going to go for?
Good point. It wouldn't cause parasitic draw, but it wouldcause an improper charge situation which may lead to discharged battery. peoplemight then mistake that for having a parasitic draw. So, indirectly maybe.
He's BACK!!
Thank you.
This channel has been invaluable for me in my attempts to keep my 2009 9-3 live on.... Thanks!
Great to hear!
Usually just replacing the cable ends at the battery with OE style solves everything(Right Angled Copper Tube Terminals).
The fuse box cable easily replaced and retighten. The main ALT/STARTER cable cut the end from the OE terminal, crimp the new one and move it to the free/unused stud at the positive battery terminal.
The negative ones suffer as well, cut both ends, crimp connector, remove battery terminal drill and install stud, tighten new cables and all good.
I quit uploading videos a while ago but i think i made a similar video doing exactly that, showing Voltage drop across all the terminals and thermal imaging.
Yes,this is good too, provided 1. there is enough slack in the cables and 2. one knows how to fit cable ends and has the tools (which I do, but most won't)
First !
Excellent video thank you Cyd. On my todo list for sure.
This is why there is a whole load of checks on service schedules. Have you got a similar problem.
Hi Cyd. I have not had any problems starting my 1.9 tid Z19TDH, but after watching your vid, I am going to give it a once over. I am sure when I was underneath and noticed some earth points chassis to engine were in need of some TLC.
Brilliant timing Cid with this video. Had this problem since I bought my SAAB three years ago, voltage drain even after new battery and alternator. Just changed my rear anti roll bar bushes yesterday following your video on that job. Thanks for another great upload, Vinny. 😊
Thanks for sharing
Brilliant! A common problem on these SAABs! I have planned this job on my SAAB 9-3X TTiD from 2010 since I am experiencing the same issues, might as well get to it, got inspired after seeing you do it. But I will have to do a different wiring since mine is a diesel. Thanks for all the good videos!
Glad it helped. Yeah, different engines will require different cable ends and different routing but the methodology will be the same.
yay good man been waiting for this one !!
Awesome, have you got similar problems?
yip 👍👍 many thanks
I had this exact problem with 2011 TTiD. Battery terminal was red hot. My starter was kaput too. Flies over now.
Great video.
Thank you
Excellent video Cyd, worth having a look at my car to see how it’s wired. Many thanks👍
No problem 👍
Hi cyd. Maybe a silly question, but, before I order the cables. ( I have the exact car you have)You mention one cable will be 16 mm and the other 25mm and different lengths.( one cable is 60” , one is 48” and one is 9”) What length and width is the alternator and the same question about the starter
motor
Cheers
Daren
The description '16mm' or '25mm' refers to the cross sectional area (csa) of the cable. I used 16mm (~5awg) for battery link and alternator (9" and 60" long resp) and 25mm (~3awg) for the starter (48" long).
HTH
Great video and explanation, where have you bought the cables from ?
Check description
Cyd,what’s the best way to lubricate my key ignition lock……it’s a wee bit sticky…all help appreciated, great channel. 👍🚀
Use a small syringe to put about 1-2 grams of silicone grease into the barrel and then run the key in and out and turn it a few times. Or buy it in these small 10g tubes,which are excellent for the job (and great for precision lube of coils and cycle chains) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlCZHZ1
Always such a good video 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
I've done that on my 93 v6 but i connected both starter and alternator to battery positive ! Shall i move alternator cable back to fuse box ?
@CycloneCyd would it be possible to make a video on how to change the rear brake pads and discs on a Seat Ibiza 6J? I really enjoyed your video about changing the front pads and discs and would highly benefit from knowing how to do the rear with winding the piston back in and the steps to take to do it. Love your videos by the way, really helped me out! Thanks
Unfortunately my son's Ibiza got written off when a Merc SUV slammed into the rear of it.
However, watch these two videos about rear brake pads. they are on the Saab but the process is almost identical on the Ibiza (and it is clockwise too). th-cam.com/video/I2bjrobr1T4/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/rZERGwhQIBU/w-d-xo.html ... I've got a feeling though, that you don't need to remove the caliper carrier to change the discs, so try without removing first.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks Cyd, I had a go at it a couple of weeks ago, managed to get it sorted 👍🏻 only problem now is I have squeeling sound I need to fix
Great stuff as usual cyd unfortunately got rid of 93stage 2 aero for XC90 auto higher up got bad knees but miss Saab already😢
I'll bet you do.
Another amazing video did you ever do a video fitting your upgrade intercooler 🧐
Not yet! But a few weeks ago I did get round to fitting the Direnza one I got. It was a right task. It was meant to fit in the stock position between the condensor and rad, but I fitted it at the front. I was able to use the stock hoses but the IC was only a few mm narrower than the gap between the headlights. I had to cut off one of the fixing lugs to get it in.having got it in, it works great.
@@CycloneCyd Ive gone for do88 direct replacement 👌🏻😎
Also what's the length of the negative cable you installed?
Thanks
600mm
Can you show us how to change the catalytic converter on the (2003-2011) Saab 9-3 please!
I've had a lot of trouble with my exhaust, so i bought a Scanifab 200 cell cat and 3" mid pipe and took the car to MIJ in Walsall. They fitted the Scanifab parts for me and then fabricated a custom SS zorst onto the car (2.5" all the way).
I've also had the gasket from ex mani to turbo break and blow twice since having my new cyl head fitted. Now it's all working again, i shalln't be touching the exhaust system again if I can help it.
Do you have a video on cleaning the throttle body or how to remove it/ replacing air boots (as the old 15 year old rubber will probably break once i touch it).
Thanks
What are air boots?
th-cam.com/video/qn5nT5jJtNA/w-d-xo.html
@@CycloneCyd my 2007 saab 9-3 2.0T has a rubber intake (air) boot on top of the throttle opening (where you get to the butterfly valve). What do you call it? Is yours not rubber?
Then the other piece that brings air to the throttle body (off to the right by the battery) is also looking fragile on mine.
Do you know the part numbers or where to get the air delivery pieces that go to the throttle body opening?
If they are really stuck and melted on there, should I just cut them off? It is beyond stuck currently! Hose clamp broke and the piece is still on the throttle rock solid with no clamp. (Which might be a good thing for now until i get a replacement and figure out how to get it off)
Thanks.
TH-cam won't let me reply with pictures. I guess I could try to make a video showing it. Lol.
@@georgeponzoni3554 AH HA! i THINK THE LIGHT BULB HAS COME ON. i THINK WHEN YOU SAY 'BOOT' YOU ARE REFERRING TO THE AIR DELIVERY HOSE
aH, BUGGER, i'VE ACCIDENTALLY GOT CAPS ON. Turned it off but not retyping that
Do you mean this hose:
th-cam.com/video/N5RPSTi1ClU/w-d-xo.html
@@CycloneCyd yes those! Air delivery hose. People call those intake boots or air boots here in New York. (As they are normally an L shape like a boot for your feet).
Anyway,
Mine is really stuck on and hose clamps rusty.! Might have to use a razor blade or something to get it off.
Any suggestions?
I will look into ordering your silicone replacement. Better than rubber?
@@georgeponzoni3554 oh yes, much better. Measure the hose clamp diameters at each end and get new SS while you're waiting for it. Don't cut the old one off til you have your new one, lol!
Use a smear of silicone grease on the inside when putting it on.
I'm liking the blue hoses, what colour are you going to go for?
Cyd! So what did you do to the original wires? Are those left connected as well or just tuck away since you used new wires??
just left them connected. They'll do nothing now.
Great advice
Easily overlooked, even at garages
Since this issue , my covertible 9-3 dtarted to play up , also right hand gauges temp/fuel/turbo .
Will this cure these issues ?
I can't say with certainty, but these cars are sensitive to bad voltages, so maybe.
@@CycloneCyd hi , so basically i found the reason for right hand gauges, its the ignition switch , needs cleaning and readjusting contact pins.
@@slvs91 awesome, happy for you and thanks for letting me know.
@@CycloneCyd thank you for making all these videos.
❤SAAB
Lol hello, I knew I had seen you before
I wonder if this could be the source of parasitic draw problems with the Saabs...
Good point. It wouldn't cause parasitic draw, but it wouldcause an improper charge situation which may lead to discharged battery. peoplemight then mistake that for having a parasitic draw. So, indirectly maybe.
Do have a video on changing the trunk struts on a 06 9 3 aero convertible?