Quick update on this one - I've come around big-time on the jigsaw. With some proper "fine" blades and learning to use it at the higest speed, it's cutting through plywood and 3/4" hardwood like butter with virtual no tearout. While I'll still use my router for getting that final curved edge using templates, this tool is great for rough-cutting and for cabinery toe-kicks! The other one that I've come around a little bit on is the Kreg Multi-Mark - I'm still not thrilled with the little bit of wobble if you're trying to use it as a square, but as a few commentors have mentioned, the 0 degree slide capability is great for reveals.
I agree with update. Jig saw is great love using it. Especially for cutting metal. Also love using the Kreg jig for doing window and door reveals best tool I have for that.
I would also say that the jigsaw is good before for cutting rough lumber to length before resawing as it's the electric hand tool with the longest reach, and also not dangerous if the material isn't that flat.
Seems a bit odd that a guy who states that he bought the tools because they are cheap then turns around and complains that the tools he bought are cheap. You expected something different?
Every now and then tho, you hit a cheapo, great quality tool. It does happen. And the opposite can happen too, you pay a lot of money for a tool that is shite.
It is "odd" to make a mistake and regret it? Not sure how you can make a video of the mistake you made while telling your personal experience without actually making the mistake in the first place ....
@@dmaginnisiv some mistakes are obvious, even before you make them. Like - you buy cheap tools made of plastic, chances are, the plastic is cheap and bad. In other news: rain is wet, and Trump lost, again. duh. Cheap tools that are actually good? Newsworthy. Cheap tools that are bad? Not as much.
A jigsaw is an incredibly useful tool. Mainly for curved or shaped cuts, not straight ones. Cut slightly bigger and can belt sand or palm sand after initial cut to finish precisely if required. One of my first power tools 20yrs ago when I started out, and even then knew how useful it would be.
I’ve come around big-time on the jigsaw in the past couple of weeks! Getting clean cuts after taking some of the feedback in these comments. It won’t be an often-used tool for me, but for rough curves (with surprisingly no tearout)and toe-kicks, it’s going to be great!
@@GuitarsAndSynths Yes, exactly! Now that I've come around on the jigsaw, I'm finding that my bandsaw is often just collecting dust. Might sell it to free up some space.
@@MasonWoodshop you may regret it when the next project comes around where a bandsaw would be the ticket. I keep what works for a given task even if I may only use it once a year. Because when I need it, it gets the job done efficiently. Otherwise you could get trapped in a cycle of buying cheap tools just to get a job done and ending up with a bunch of crap tools that make the craft less enjoyable or profitable. I hope this helps!
I love my Dremel tool, have had it for 20 years and it has handled so many unwieldy jobs for me. Grinding, awkward cutoffs, detail polishing, tight-quarters sanding and shaping, and I'm forgetting probably a dozen other jobs I was happy it did. I'm glad you found a way to fit the jigsaw into your work. Don't need mine often (thus, I chose corded), but it is a gem of a tool when I do!
I agree with everything except the jigsaw. Not use much in cabinet making but lots for carpentry. Use it mostly for coping. But couldn't live without it.
I’ve used jigsaws for breaking down hardwoods in my cabinet shop for years. So much easier than a chop saw. Switching to a cordless one has been awesome. A must have daily used tool in my shop.
Best woodworking tool I have... blue painters tape. Helps with marking wood; allows you to mock up/glue up your smaller projects; reduces tear-out when sawing/milling boards; almost as good as having a second pair of hands. It does so much for such a simple item. There's always a couple of rolls in my shop.
I absolute love my kreg multi mark. While it isn't the most stout and well made tool, i don't think it's crap. I've had mine going on 2 years and use it all the time doing trim and cabinetry. Never had an issue with it not being 90°\45° when set properly. And as a carpenter I use my jig saw all the time. Couldn't get by with out it
I dont think this guy is doing work professionally. The Kreg tool has an offset for casing, a jigsaw is indispensible, a dremel is for hobbyists, carvers, or metalwork/sharpening, but a carbide burr makes a huge difference in how useful it is. Strap/box clamps? Really? Free cord from home depot = same. Should punch some holes in that workbench for using as a jig to clamp to. The layout tools he bought are gimmicks and have always been gimmicks, get a 2 foot bosch digital miter guage (looks like an electric 2 foot level) and a fiberglass folding stick rule, then learn to use it. The block planes are exact copies of more expensive planes that dont have a patent anymore. Literally the same heel, granted the irons might be softer steel, but to set them, loosen it up, zero it on a flat surface, lay 1 layer of masking tape on a surface and drop the iron behind that. 1 and done, takes about 0.012"
how much time and money will you spend on cheap tools? Certainly more over time than an expensive tool. I nearly choked on the price of Woodpeckers Squares but those literally sell for the same price used on Ebay lol. Even Starrett used combo squares are nearly the price of new
The handsaw I have looks exactly like that one you have. Mine is a Sandvik, I have had it for over 40 years it still cuts like a dream. Great tool and because I care for my tools it never rusted.
my grandfather taught me a lesson 60 years ago. "The most expensive tool you will ever buy is a cheap one." I've found that to be true. You'll either buy it then realize how crappy it is then buy the better one, be replacing it a lot THEN buying a good one, or, worst, actually hurt yourself trying to use it - maybe resulting in a hospital/ER visit before getting the good version.
I use my Dewalt jigsaw all the time. Use it to cut toe kicks, sheet rock, metal, and all sorts of things. You just need the right blade and adjust it right.
I am glad I am not the only one cringing at him saying a jig saw is not for woodworking. Poor advice. Use the right blades and technique for the application and clean cuts are very achievable. He even he says he uses it regularly to break down lumber at the yard.. seems worth it to me!
The multi mark is a measure marking tool not a framing square. It definitely makes laying out hinges and knobs easier. Also a good start to set up blade and router depth.
I bought my Wen 2305 rotary tool in January 2021 and I've found it to be serviceable. I'd like to note that the entire kit, including the flex shaft, costs less than the Dremel flex shaft by itself. I also own a Dremel 4000 but decided to dedicate it to a drill press configuration.
I've never regretted buying expensive tools. Well made tools are a pleasure to use, will get used often, and you soon forget the pain of paying for it. Every time I buy something cheap to save a bit of money, it ends up annoying me every time I use it.
I spent the money on two Dewalt sanders that died just over a year. Fried convinced me I got a lemon the first time. My first sander, the cheapest they had lasted years. It owed me nothing. The sander I have now is 5 years old, cheapest at the store, abused and still running. Name brands use to mean quantity, but most are just made in China junk now.
Yeah, we all have a great number of tools that we almost never use. I suppose too much time watching TH-cam and listening to various 'influencers' leads us to make rash purchase choices - especially when we go for the 'budget' version. Buy cheap; buy twice!
Even the expensive hand planes have to be 'tuned up' out of the box. The key factor is whether or not it keeps its settings when you dial it in. Even cheap planes can work well once tuned up.
I came to write this EXACT comment. Rex Kreuger has some pretty good videos that will show a beginner how to set up a plane. Most of those I learned from was how to refurbish an old plane, but 1/2 the video applies to setting up a plane, no matter if first time or refurbish.
Wrangler star had one on tuning up like a $15 hand plane, which started with a couple hours of sanding the bottom flat on a piece of glass or granite. Someday I might get there lol
Got my hands on a Stanley no. 4, and no matter how much time I spent sharpening the iron it didn't really work until I sanded the bottom flat. Rather laborous couple of hours, but it made a world of difference in the end. Took it from unusable to fine!
Rob Cosman has several videos on tuning planes. He obviously always recommends getting better tools, but i have used his tips to make a cheap $35 home depot plane work "better". Not like my woodriver plane but i can now use it for rough planing.
You buy hand tools to spend the time making them work for you, or you should just mill out your work pieces before you start the finishing process. But I like to take my time to get to "KNOW" my equipment first.
I agree. IF one wants a Dremel, best to buy one. The other knock-offs do not have the power to do the things you might be hoping for. But, that said, once you have a good Dremel, the uses are endless. Just have to jump in and get used to it.
That dremel style tool can be extremely useful - depending on what u are doing. First - get a decent Dremel tool ( I have a Wizard - compatible with all dremel accessories). I do Lutherie work - a lot of touch up and detail work. I use it for fabrication, trimming, polishing etc. It's designed for small intricate operations.
I bought a couple B&D RTX rotary tools when they were closing them out. They're OK. I've had real Dremels too. Blown a couple up. I also have a Foredom flex shaft tool. If I need real power I have Rotozips and pneumatic die grinders. But there's a lot the little rotary tools can do. You just have to work within their limitations.
@@1pcfred Problem with pneumatic die grinders, even the wee ones comparable to a Dremel, is how much air they use. No an issue in an auto shop, can be a problem for many home woodworkers.
@@johnsanford3596 die grinders are not high flow tools. They're maybe 4-6 CFM so you don't need a giant compressor to handle one. Need a bit more than a little pancake job though.
My Dremel rotary tool has saved me hundreds, if not thousands of dollars on many different types of repair projects. I use the cutoff wheels and grinding stones the most.
Something to note with the jigsaw, I was pretty frustrated with mine, and I had a cheaper one than yours, so I didn't use it much. I recently upgraded the blades to diablo, and its a whole different machine. If it's not working well for you, and your getting chatter, chances are the blade your using is blunt or not the correct blade/shit blade. Hope this helps!
You're exactly right, Jay! I upgraded my blades and also tried out different speed settings for different materials. It all made a huge difference and I now really like my jigsaw.
Just to quickly chime in. Many here believe opposite extremes when it comes to cost of a tool. The old "buy once, cry once " doesn't always apply. Neither does " but the cheapest workable you can". I live by something i discovered a long time ago. If you have it in your hands and/or use it daily, spend on the best you can afford. For the occasional use tools, spend only what covers your needs, and no more. Tools to spend on IMO are as follows- Measuring and marking tools EX- squares of all kinds, tape measures, angle finders ( mechanical and digital). The more accurate they are, the more accurate you can be. This one is odd but works- Clothing. If your on your feet all day and they suffer, your work suffers. A decent apron is also your friend. And last but not least, any tool that helps you be more efficient on a day to day basis. If woodworking is what pays the mortgage and puts food on the table, the more productive you can be, the more you can earn over time. And efficient tool pays for itself many times over in time, where inefficient tools cost multiples thier initial purchase price in legacy. My .02 cents. Ps- im a professional cabinet maker and bench carpenter by trade. These are lessons hard earned over time.
I do something similar. If I'm not sure about a tool I'll buy a cheap one, if I end up using it to death then i'll buy a quality version. Quality being the important distinction because price and quality aren't always directly related. 100% agreed that cheap measuring and marking tools are a waste of time (imo it should be illegal to sell a square that isn't square). Same goes for cutters and blades. A cheap saw blade will perform like ass, get dull fast and end up in the trash, good blades are a long term investment and can be sharpened multiple times.
I use the jigsaw all the time. Recently put up a french cleat panel that needed a cutout in the middle for an electrical outlet. Drilled two holes and used the jigsaw. I also needed to cut some angle iron but couldn't use the grinder. Used the jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and some cutting oil. Worked perfect.
That's awesome! I've really come around on the jigsaw and have started using it a lot recently. The right blade and right speed have made a huge difference!
Old sayings aren't always correct though. There is a very definite role for cheap tools. Perhaps there is tool you've never used - and you're not sure you'll need. Go ahead and buy a cheap one - maybe you find you really don't need a tool for that job - maybe it collects dust for months between uses. Maybe, although cheap, it does the job just fine. Either way, you saved money. Only if you find that this is a tool you use often and for which the cheap one doesn't quite cut it...go buy a fancy one. Example #1: I bought a cheap lathe...turns out I really don't need a lathe more than once every couple of years - so it mostly collects dust. I'm very glad I didn't go crazy. Sometimes what you imagine to be very useful, just isn't. Example #2: I bought a cheap Japanese hand-saw - turns out I love the reverse cutting action, the flexible blade and the straight handle. I found I was using it a hell of a lot, often reaching for it in place of my chop-saw. So I splurged on a set of three really classy ones and dumped all of my other hand saws. But buying the best at the outset could easily have been a waste of money had I not found it to my liking. Sometimes you don't know what you'll like until you try it for a while. Example #3: I bought a very sexxy $800 Prusa 3D printer - it has a ton of automation and clever capabilities - and it worked just fine. But a few months ago, a no-name company in China offered me a free $190 3D printer in exchange for nothing more than an honest review. That printer is very simple, quite "unfussy" - but it's just so astoundingly useful (because of that simplicity) that I rarely use the $800 Prusa - and would NEVER have bought it if I'd had the $190 printer first. Sometimes, (but definitely not always) cheaper is actually better. "Quality" is an elusive property and it doesn't always correlate with "price". Sometimes, cheaper is better...and very, VERY often - cheaper is "plenty good enough". So I'm generally OK with buying cheap - and upgrading if-and-when I need to. I strongly disagree with just always going out and buying the most expensive thing...if nothing else, if your budget is less than infinite, owning a greater variety of cheaper tools may very well get the job done faster and more easily than with a smaller number of over-engineered tools that cost you a fortune.
Cheap isn't always terrible though. Most of my benchtop tools are on carts so I can roll them around the garage (Tablesaw/Miter saw/Drill press). I started out buying expensive supposedly great casters for those carts thinking I needed that. The original casters that I spent pretty big on ($20 per caster) lasted a year before starting to get hard to move, I've now had cheap casters off of amazon for 2 years and they still glide around my garage ($15 per 4 pack). Not to mention the cheap casters are just objectively easier to work with, wider brake pedals on them make it easier to set and release the brakes with my foot. Clamps are another good example. Why pay $15 for a Irwin clamp when you can buy 3 of the same size from Harbor freight? Will it last as long as the Irwin? No. But it will last long enough that the 3 will outlive the one. Also helps with the other saying which is "You never have enough clamps"
@@SteveBakerIsHere I have a set of cheap chisels I use for anything and can resharpen them to a razor sharp edge on my tormek but the fact that were cheap means I'll use them to scrap caulking off the brick or wail on them with a hammer to break a weld, wouldn't do that with my good set
@@Galgamoth Yeah - I agree. There is nothing wrong with having expensive, high quality tools - but to say that those are the ONLY tools you should ever have is ridiculous.
I've got 3 of those Kreg multi marks, I use them a lot for finishing or transferring measurements. Plus it has the reveal built in so you can always get your door and window frames perfect. I love it. I have a Dewalt jigsaw and I don't use it all the time but enough I'm glad I own it. And my moisture meter I use it to show clients their walls and how wet they are up and then recommend we redo the part above a certain moisture.
I agree with 80% of what you said. The jigsaw, very useful for me. To be fair, you did clarify that it wasn't useful for your woodworking, but I see that you since discovered just how useful it can be. I guess you learned a little something from your own video. I have one of those plastic angle finders. I have gotten a ton of use out of mine. Yes, it's cheap plastic, but it has worked well for me. I bought it to make a coffin-shaped bookcase for my daughter and I got dead-on results with it. I agree, it can be a little difficult to read, but in the end, it has been a valuable tool for me. I've wanted a sprayer for a long time and I didn't let myself get suckered in by a cheap solution. I finally bought the Earlex 5500. There are plenty of better sprayers out there, but I love what it has done for me. As for hand planes, I haven't bought any but I'm also hesitant to buy any until I have the money to also buy the tools to keep them in good working order, e.g. sharpening. It's like buying a Mercedes or a Porsche. You might be able to afford the monthly payment, but if you can't afford the up-keep, you have no business buying one. So, when I can afford the supporting tools, I'll start buying good planes.
Great comment, thank you! Yeah, the jigsaw was a sore spot for a while, but I'm using a lot now with great results - really quite refreshing! Funny enough, I just trimmed out my entire basement and I used that little angle finder to get rough estimates - it wasn't super-precise, but it was often "accurate enough" for my needs at the time. I have a couple of larger cabinetry builds coming up, so i'm going to invest in a good sprayer - that Earlex 5500 will be on my short list!
I have a cheap unbranded rotery tool I bought over twenty years ago, for diy. It's still going strong. I bought a Dremel mini circular saw a while ago. the motor packed up after a few months of light diy use. the Bosch I replaced it with is a much better tool. The take-aways for me are; cheap tools were better quality than they are today, and brand names are not always the best indicator of quality.
Bosch owns Dremel. So when you buy a Dremel you're buying Bosch. Bosch owns a number of brands. Like Rotozip. I've swapped accessories between my Bosch Colt router and a Rotozip I have. Threads right on. Old tools are subject to survivor bias. What we see today are the good ones because they're what survived over time. Which makes us think everything in the past must have been that good. In reality the garbage in the past got tossed out long ago. So it skews perception.
@@1pcfred No different than people so dedicated and loyal to a "Brand Name" when actuality that "loyalty" is based on the quality it used to be before corporate cut corners to increase their profit margin. Also, as with any type of product - someone comes up with a good quality (and therefore popular) item and some big name company will buy them out and immediately lower the quality hoping that people will remain loyal based upon remembering what it used to be before "Big Name" trashed it for profits.
For the record, that DeWalt jigsaw is awesome. I've used it for cutting 18 gauge steel to 2x12 stair stringers. Tons of power and smooth. Feels good in your hand like all DeWalt tools. It's definitely a versatile tool. What would you use in place of it or is it that you don't really need it for most projects. You could use it to cut moons in outhouse doors haha.
I’ve really come around on the jigsaw since posting this video. The right blade and right speed made a big difference in the quality of the cut - glad I got some helpful advice in these comments!
@@MasonWoodshop hell yeah, just subscribed. I'm a framer by trade but have been slowly dipping my toes in the water for years. Always good to find new content. I love that jigsaw but then again I love all tools. Definitely have a problem haha.
Wow, I agree in most, but the Kreg ruler I own, does not wiggle even after years of dropping it. I use it frequently and am surprised someone else is dissatisfied by it. I was actually thinking of getting a second one, just to find faster when I misplace it.
Happy to hear that you have no wiggle, might be that mine is faulty for some reason. I have been using it recently for consistent depths out of one end and I've been happy with the multi-mark for that purpose.
I disagree with the kreg jig multi mark being useless. i work in a cabinet shop and using at least two of them speeds up putting drawer fronts on more than you would think. I typically don't us them like a combination square but who would. also they are great for trimming out door jams.
Hey man I had the same “chatter” problem on my Dewalt jigsaw, then I turned the knob (near the metal xr logo) all the way to the right. Literally PERFECT cuts now. That knob determines the angle at which the blade cuts and I’ve found the greater the angle, the more chatter! It will make your cuts very precise so you can use it for more than rough cuts. Give it a try!
That's exactly what I did! I've come to really like my jigsaw since posting this video once I dialed in the settings and used the right blade for the job.
Got a Woodriver 5 1/2 jack plane. My next plane will be Woodriver if I can’t afford the top two brands. Worked beautifully out of the box and after a little work on the blade I was in love.
Same here. When I’m hanging trim I don’t put that thing down strictly for the uniform and consistent reveal. Also laying down lines along a board’s edge.
So happy you guys are saying that. When I clicked on this video I immediately saw the Kreg Multi Mark and realized that I bought it over month ago and have never used it! I'm not cheap, but I really don't like wasting money on something Il never use. The good news is that I do doors semi-regularly so I will indeed use it 👍
The Rotary tool is about the most useful tool I have along with the battery powered drill/screwdriver and you guessed it the Jigsaw. That with a router and you can basically do a whole lot of odd jobs around the house. Basically those 4 are for me a starter kit. need a straight line from a jigsaw well some clamps and 2 pieces of anything straight and you can make yourself a poor mans table/circular saw.
It is advised by the professionals that you fettle every hand plane after the purchase. Some take less and some take more than others. I think fettling your plane may set it more in tune with how an individual uses the plane (i.e. the particular pressure an individual may put on it and how they use it on a particular stroke.) Well worth the time and effort to get maximum results.
I agree with you. Im a joiner of 30 years plus and this guy hs no clue regarding planes. At the least he has half dis assembled the plane to put a cutting edge on or I would have hoped he knows that.
One major problem we face today is that although the big box stores carry everything from nails to to toilets, they carry very few woodworking tools. This forces us to look online at tools that appear good or interesting but after purchasing them, not so much. We have to rely on other folk's reviews etc. that are usually biased in some way and are heavily marketing driven to get views and subscriptions. Don't sell the jigsaw. You might find uses for it later on, like cutting PVC pipe when installing a sprinkler system. I use the multimark all the time for depth measurement. I have a Paolini rule from WoodPecker's that cost triple and I never use it. The multimark is easier to read and use for some reason. Cheap plastic, yes, but all of Kreg's tools use this type of plastic. It works and if this one ever breaks, I will probably just go out a buy another one. Thanks for the video and stay safe.
Amazing insight, thanks for sharing! You're absolutely right that marketing-driven reviews (whether by the manufacturer, or just the potential for more views) are becoming more-and-more prevalent. The jigsaw and multi-mark are the two that I've come around on - the jigsaw was always going to stay for DIY purposes, and some of the comments here about the multi-mark have changed my thoughts on it for a couple of use cases (still won't use it as a square due the wobble).
The plastic angle template is awesome for tileing floor when u have door frame close to a recessed wall u can get the full measurment or stairway next to railing post ...I love this tool
The Kreg Multi-Mark is probably the tool I am using the most - daily, over already 3 years now. Took a lot of beating, and even if its made mostly out of plastic, it is definitely a quality product. Don't understand your rant about it.
Kreg multi mark is a great addition to my arsenal of tools. His must be defective or something because mine is completely square. I can see the Kreg being by my side for years
I don’t use the angle features on Kreg tool. I do use it for depth marking/measuring. You didn’t mention the 3/16” reveal ledge that I use a lot for marking window/door trim location.
After posting this and getting comments, I've started using it for that exact same case - reveals and trim placement! Easy to use and much lighter than the adjustable squares I have around.
I use an orbital jigsaw for shaped cuts for things like cat tree platforms, or cutting circular holes for speaker enclosures, and for those types of cuts, a jigsaw works great. If I need to break down lumber, I just use a 6.5" cordless deep-cut circular saw.
Jigsaws are amazing, they are basically miniature bandsaws you can use for 99% the work you would otherwise need a bandsaw for; with the right blades and a bit of practise - and if you get creative, with jigs - it is unbelievably versatile; I'm definitely one of the people here that would recommend a jigsaw as an essential tool.
I've come around big time on the jigsaw and agree that it could be an essential tool for beginners. My issue mostly stemmed from the wrong speed and the wrong blade. Once I dialed that in, I'm getting clean and quick cuts!
Like nearly all tools, it takes practice and patience to learn best how to use them. I’ve never considered a jigsaw a finish tool, but invaluable for odd cuts in odd places. It then, I’m a handyman and not a cabinetmaker. 😜
@@MasonWoodshop You can also build an inverted jigsaw table. It has similar stability of a bandsaw but will let you cut inside a piece which you can't do with a bandsaw. It'll, in theory, handle thicker materials than a scrollsaw. It's sort of an in-between of a bandsaw and scrollsaw.
@@JamesKelly89 Funny enough, I'm selling my band saw tomorrow (doesn't see much use and takes up a lot of room in my one-car garage shop), so this tip is quite helpful! Thank you.
@@MasonWoodshop Oh wow! You couldn't get me to part with my bandsaws. I have a smaller one, a 12" Craftsman with a 1/8" blade, for scrolling and a bigger more powerful one, a 14" Delta with a 1/2" blade, for resawing. It'd take an act of God (or my wife haha) to get me to part with my bandsaw. I'm actually planning on getting a bigger motor and a riser for the Delta at some point.
Thanks for taking the time to put out the video. Your hand plane story sums it up. I have a bunch of plane videos and believe a razor sharp blade is about 85% of the challenge. If you can't do that, then you'll never be happy using them. Even Lie Nielsens will only last about 15 minutes before the blade is less than razor sharp, then you're in the same boat. I also appreciate your updates on the jig saw. I use mine a few times/year because it's by far the best tool for certain things. I find cutting thin metal a good use when a hack saw just isn't going to do it. Thanks again.
The handsaw is great for if you ever deal with dimensional lumber that has gone twisted and you need it to be a manageable size, and rough wood (like firewood that you might want to take slices from). Since *most* large power tools require regularity of some sort (square, or at least a straight line on some axis), the handsaw can be the far safer starting point for the small shop. They’re also great for pieces that are too small to easily cut with a power tool. Japanese pull saws are superior choices for precise joinery and small cuts, but I highly recommend learning how to use push saws because, while they do have a steeper learning curve, they excel at dealing with thicker stock and are more energy efficient than pull saws.
I've got four of those strap clamps and haven't used them recently, but they were great when I had a dozen wooden trays with mitered joints to clamp. That's the kind of joint they work well with. I've tried others types of clamps* and they just don't align mitered corners right without wasting a LOT of time. I do agree the straps can be a mess. Helps to unroll only what you need, and use a rubber band or Velcro strap to keep the rest coiled up. There are also some tricks to applying them that make life easier (e.g. lay them out on a surface first then position the box sides in the middle. Then tighten it up. Use spacers under the corner pieces if you need them higher up the sides. Don't try to work with it in mid-air.) * In fact, most of those other corner clamps qualify as my waste of money. I used them a couple of times, but now, for the same kinds of joints I just use ratchet clamps and clamping blocks.
Ive noticed 1 commonality with all your regrettable purchases is "cheap".. I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for.. If you want a quality tool that works properly, you must be willing to pay for that in cold hard cash.
Absolutely agree, Jason! Most of these purchases were from when I was more about quantity of tools/accessories, rather than actually buying the best I could afford when I actually needed them. A good learning experience for any beginner.
The problem with cheap hand planes is that they deter people from going further into woodworking. If you want a good plane, buy a used Stanley type 19 or earlier. You can find good users or ones that have been tuned up, but chances are you’ll throw some time into tuning it up yourself, which will be worth the effort. Just learn the cheap features on cheap hand planes and why they are not worth the effort. Then go get a vintage Stanley and when you take the first very fine shaving off a board, you’ll be glad you went vintage.
Since fish respond well to shiny lures, I use my rotary tool (a cordless Dremel) to clean and polish metal fishing lures (spoons, spinner blades, etc) with abrasive and polishing buff wheels. Also occasionally polish painted lures. And, while I have the tool out, I also tend to clean or polish anything around the shop (rulers, tools, blades, etc) that catches my eye.
Most regretful is a non-sliding miter saw. Made do with only a miter saw (no table saw) for many years. If it was at least a slider, I wouldn't have needed to be nearly as creative in getting home improvement done. Other than that, I've been very careful in my tools purchases. Wheelchair dynamics can dramatically alter how a tool is used, even hand tools, so you really have to think things through if you can.
9:20 Gave me flashbacks to my old Wagner Power Painter. I had both the roller and sprayer, completely horrible. I ended up repainting the room it looks so bad. And it took me longer to clean the thing than it did to paint the room with a brush and rollers!
There are so many tools out there .... from saws to clamps to 5axis NC routers...... most of the time we truly don't need them. Some of the best work I've ever seen is done with the basics. I use a 2.5 axis NC router with old school hand planes making large tables . . . Most of the time the NC router is just leveling my large live edge planks... its nice and easy ... BUT all I really need to do this is a router bridge ....It just comes down to time and money .... the NC router allows me to work on something else as the unit levels my work... Allowing me to make more money... But that money then goes to pay for the NC router... I see this a lot in tooling. Finding that sweet spot of what you really need to make money and do good work. Most of the time we dont understand what we truly need until we have what we really don't need.. I for 1 have so many tools that just set now..
Good info! Coincidentally, I used my jigsaw today to cut some u-channels in some drawer bottoms (where the drain pipe will go on a bathroom vanity). Usually I use the bandsaw for stuff like that, but the drawers are 30+inches wide and they wouldn’t fit. Thanks for the great content!
Thanks for watching! Funny enough, bathroom vanity drain pipe is where I've used the jigsaw a couple of times, although I did use a hole saw for the curved part.
I bought a plane and block plane from Harbor Freight, and took some time and REALLY sharpened the blades, and they do fine. Biggest complaint is that the handle is too small for my hand. Clearly isn't the quality of a Leigh or Stanley, but I don't care if it gets beat up.
Thanks for sharing and I really like the idea of not worrying about it getting beat up. I've kept these hand planes and usually just use them for rough construction jobs. For those jobs, they generally work well-enough and I don't get bothered if there are chips on the blades.
@@MasonWoodshop Yeah, this was just a quick way to fill a gap until I got around to buy a quality tool. I have a nice granite block that I can use for sharpening a blade or for flattening a working surface. So some of these tools can be made to do a decent job, and later you can still get a few bucks out of them at a yard sale, or you can pass it down to a kid or new woodworker.
Dremel does the same thing when it comes to counting how many items are in a kit. As for the grit I don't think they generally say either. It's sort of irrelevant for the typical use of those sanding bits. Overall though rotary tools are very useful to have around. Jigsaws seem to have their lovers and their haters. One woodworker will have it amongst the tools they couldn't do without and another will consider it impossible to use. What I do know is having a decent blade and using the right blade matters. Put a scroll blade in even the cheapest name brand jigsaw and you can accurately and quite quickly cut complicated shapes. I'm not sure how people judge whether plastic is cheap or not. I don't know what Kreg use, but I doubt it is easy to tell the formulation that easily.
I've definitely come around to the need/want to work a bit more with the jigsaw to get it working well (it does see use with some DIY projects from time-to-time).
I would not say I use rotary tools much woodworking but they are handy to have in the workshop. Drums are like coarse and fine. Some Wen tools are kind of crappy. I would not call a jigsaw a fine woodworking tool. But they can have their uses. Not everything I make is Chippendale furniture either. As far as judging the quality of plastic goes I think folks go by the finish, the heft, the hardness, flex. If it feels flimsy then it probably is. If it just up and breaks that's never a good sign. I had these plastic brackets break holding slides in my kitchen cabinets. I was not happy. So I milled new brackets out of HDPE I'd home cast. Let's see those brackets break. Of course the brackets I made were 10 times thicker. I was not going to do a call back on that job. I just put unreasonably large chunks in there. The floor will give out before my brackets do. But the original brackets were definitely cheap plastic.
I think for the most part all of the tools except for the General angle tools are well worth having in the shop. Yes a new woodworker may not need some at first but if you have the money why not. I use most of these yools on a regular basis. I may not do projects that require them all the time but I get a lot of weird requests for making different items. That being said I can use that side money from the project to buy the tool and expand my wheelhouse or skip out on learning something new. With all that I feel the main point, it has been stated already a few different ways is Don't buy cheap expecting it to take the place of a quality tool. There are a few exceptions but do your homework first. Impulse will not only waste your money but time and frustration as well. Like others have said a Jigsaw in my opinion is a must have. If nothing else just for building jigs which we all use on a daily basis. 1 last note if you have tools you don't use try pulling them out and designing a small project just for that tool. We learn from it and you never know it might be youre ticket who knows. If not try donating the tools or do a hive away on you channel I'm sure someone can put them to use CHEAP USUALLY IS JUST THAT. Get out build something and enjoy your passion.
I love my dremel and use it to sign/date every piece I make. The bits I use are drill bits I got from my dentist (free) and I still have hundreds left from the original batch she gave me. Having said that, you're right, most of those things that come with it are marketing junk.
Very much like yourself, I've bought el cheapo stuff for those "one off" jobs and regretted it immediately. Sure, they might cut a board in half but you have to fight with it, spend time to clean up the crappy edges etc. It took me time but I eventually learnt to buy a decent, medium price tool for that odd job AND, I have no qualms to lend them out. People are happy to borrow and they don't think to ask me for my precious. Yes my little precious. Shopping with my sister once, I put a top quality item in the trolley and she said 'you can get so and so brand for half the price'. My reply - 'I'd rather spend twenty dollars on something I really enjoy than ten bucks on something I hate'.
I agree with most of this with the exception of the Dewalt Jig saw. It is certainly not a "fine" woodworking tool but it is one of the handiest saws around for quick roughing work(battery powered). I love mine and it is one of the smoothest jig saws I've ever owned.
I’ve really come around on the jigsaw and use it all the time now. Just took some time to figure out the right settings and the right blades for the job!
Great list! The only one I disagree with is the jigsaw. It’s great when you are starting out because it’s pretty versatile. A bit of jack of all trades. However as you acquire more tools eventually almost everything you can do with a jigsaw can be done with another tool but better.
@@MasonWoodshopI have a barrel style jigsaw. I find it to be much easier and precise - do to the proximity of control. I use it enough to warrant having it.
@@michaelhamerin3814 My corded barrel-grip Bosch jigsaw was pretty solid. I picked up this DeWalt for the cordless freedom, but right before they launched their barrel-grip version. Poor timing!
Got a similar rotarty tool that i still use on the two lowest speeds because i have a gut feeling something bad will happen based on the sound the machine makes. I recently purchased the malwakee M12 right angle grinder that is also probably my favorite tool because it's a 12v monster with both manual speed adjustment and variable speed paddle trigger. Each speed setting sounds like it's the same musical note but in a different octave. I got sanding accessories from Amazon that didn't fit it. I used the cheap rotary to modify the adopers to make it compatible instead of buying adapters more expensive than the cheap rotary. The modifications are not on any cutting or grinding accessories because that would be needless dangerous.
I actually had a bad experience with OG dremel rotary tools than with the knock off ones. The best one I've got so far is a black and decker one. I originally started buying them for sculpting, but they have prove to come in handy for tool manteinance
You must have gotten a bad Kreg multi-mark and should have returned it for another. I love mine and have been using it daily for the past 7 or 8 years. I use it mainly for repeatable dimensions, especially when I do metalworking.
I've been using it for some home improvement projects the past few months and have found it helpful for reveals and other depth-related items. It has it's use in those cases, but it's not necessarily as versatile as Kreg pitches.
I agree with most of your comments on these tools. I will disagree on the Jig saw, one of the most used tools by interior finish guy's. I have installed many kitchens and baths and the jig saw is one I always have on hand. pipes, metal or plastic, sink cutouts, ceramic tiles, dry wall and the list can go on. In the shop I have both a Bandsaw and Scroll saw which are mainly used shape cutting. If you learn how to properly use your tools, the jig saw is a great tool. I am glad to see that you have come around on the jig saw, but I still felt complied to make that statement for the benefit of others. I did enjoy your video, well done sounded great.
That sinking feeling when you see, right on the bench, the EXACT same crappy plastic measuring thing that you bought a couple months ago... it's like a teacher holding up a test with red pen all over it, and you know it's yours...
@@MasonWoodshop Me too... you are SPOT ON many: the lousy Kreg plastic (but I will have to say that most of their many accesories stink, like the "Rip Cut" that relies on the worst softest and cheapest plastic parts!, the horrible General P.O.S. angle "finder" with a lot of slop in it, the terrible electric paint guns (ALL of them, even Wagner!), the lousy block planes, and to round it up, the poor quality Dremel accesories (even from Dremel!). Too bad I had not discovered your channel before!!!
My husband bought me a Dremal which I have used for a number of things. Stripping furniture with hard to reach areas. Taking the edge of a tile so I could replace an outlet in the bathroom with one that shuts off when wet. The new one would not fit. He also bought the accessory kit to go with it. What I have discovered is that some things I have used so much I have had to replace them several times. Some I have never used at all. But until you own one you have no idea what parts are useful.
Footprint USED to be pretty good, one of the numerous Sheffield companies. I have a set of chisels from them, Made in England and identical except for color (red vs blue) to the Marples Blue Chips of the early '90s.
I've gone down the cheap plane rabbit hole twice. One was such a piece of junk I couldn't even think of selling to put someone else through that misery, the other I turned into a passable scrub plane. My first decent plane was a 'vintage' Stanley that I used my Dremmel rotary tool to clean up. Taught me a lot about quality tools. Don't know why you think Woodriver is cheap. Both of mine are good well crafted tools.
Awesome to hear you refurbished a vintage Stanley - it’s something I’d love to do at some point. I’m going to give the Woodriver another go as I know they are built well, I just couldn’t get it set quite to my liking. Some more time tinkering and I’m sure it’ll be much better.
I use my rotatory tool all the time because I also do scroll-saw work and it is good for sanding some of the fine fret work... I don't have a Dremel but a cheaper knock off "Fuller" brand... has lasted over 10 years... Though I wouldn't use one as a router...??? thats a new one??? Angle thingy-me-bobs... never seen heard of nor would I buy or need... a simple sliding bevel gauge including the Kreg Jig. The band clamp... is a mess?... it is not that hard to wind it up after use and put a rubber band on it... come on... Marking Gauge that's they style I learnt to use at school and works well ... they are easy to use and even make your own. Are they as nice as more expensive... no... but what tool ever is? I will totally dis-agree with the Jigsaw, but like any tool learn how to use it properly, get some finer blades can be a very very useful tool in the shop... A beginner may not have a bandsaw either room, or budget... and a jigsaw is probably the next best thing and it has an advantage over the bandsaw that it can cut inside circles etc. The jigsaw is not for straight cuts use a circular saw for that, they are more for curves. If you are getting chatter on your board then you are not holding the jigsaw plate right down on the board... or you may have the wrong type of blade in (ie; a reverse blade and DeWalt do make them or to rough a blade for what you are cutting) or you haven't secured the board properly where you are cutting it. I use mine regularly... however again depends what you are making.
If you are having trouble with your piece vibrating too much, I believe that's what clamps are for. I use mine all the time to make rough cuts and sand down the rest to where I need it. If you are having trouble with tear out use tape to minimize/eliminate the problem like most projects.
Thanks for the videos ! Especially the Essential Tools vids and the router vids . Im from Germany , 22 and my name is Daniel and im disabled. Im glued to a wheelchair but right now im trying to create my own garage woodworking shop . I just found your channel and subscribed .
Glad you enjoyed the videos and thank you for subscribing! Woodworking is a fantastic and accessible hobby, so I hope you're having fun getting started.
Daniel, you can do it! A member of a forum where I participate has an older gentleman that is in a motorized wheel chair. He just built, with help, a big wood and metal working shop with everything planned for chair height use. Best of wishes!
Amazing how expensive of a lesson cheap tools can be. I love that jigsaw. I also use my Milwaukee M12 rotary tool a *ton*. Not so much in woodworking unless I'm doing some fine carving things (prefer rotary tools to knives).
Let me know what your most regretful woodworking tool purchases have been in the comments below! Something that didn't quite make the list for me was buying exotic woods (purpleheart, bloodwood, padauk among a few others) when I first started woodworking - they were difficult to work with, naturally oily which made finishing difficult, and had an awful stench when machining.
It was a K-mart special,.. Table saw... Complete with a sheet-metal "assembly required" table for it... I HATE that damn thing... I finally ended up building a new table on a dolly for it, put some accessories in there, and fitted it out with a sled jig so my brother would take it... He's pretty sure his boss will crow madly over it, once he's done rebuilding a ramp for his house... I have a circular saw... a makita... I can do about everything I need with that. A table saw might be a fine thing... in it's place. It's just that it's place isn't with me. I don't hate Tablesaws as a rule... just THAT particular one has seemed hell bent to piss me off since I got it... and it's done more for firewood than construction... SO lil' bro' can have it. I wish him AND his boss all the best with it. ;o)
As far as powertools go its a Ryobi table saw. I have nothing against Ryobi in general, their drills/drivers (specially the latest generation) are pretty good. But even as far as job site saws go this one was just not great. Took out their crappy blade and put in a Diablo blade and it got better but the stuff that bugged me had nothing to do with the blade. The miter gauge wobbles a lot, the fence has this little marker so you can use the ruler on the table but the marker is held on by a single screw and the window is larger than the piece of plastic they use for the marker so it can be off. Not a problem for quick breakdown cuts but absolutely not for final cuts. Finally the bevel doesn't lock very well so you have to square it up constantly. Fortunately I didn't spend much on it. Hand Tools you have cheap chisels from Amazon. I bought them early on thinking a chisel is a chisel how can you screw it up? Then spent a year without touching a chisel they were so bad. It wasn't until I was working with a friend on a project and I used his Two Cherries chisels that I found they can actually be a joy to work with. They may cost 5x what the set I bought, but worth every penny.
@@yunofun Just my experience, but if one is going to get a table-saw for a personal shop, I'd hazard that it's simply more prudent to go ahead and get one of the big old, obscenely heavy ones... cast iron top... proper adjustment hardware in the right places, and check it out before the buy, because for us on a budget, then "used" is the obvious way to go... It sucks to stick to a hand-held circular saw and folding saw-benches from 2x4's with those $5 bracket sets out of the slowest big-box store in history, BUT the little imperfections can be worked around for the time being, and when the "big boy saw" comes along equitably, you'll have the experience and instincts developed to appreciate it and keep it up for years or even decades to come... I've come to reckon that I simply don't have the space or place to justify such a thing, myself... BUT decent used saws in the "big and heavy" variety can still be found at equitable prices. I recently helped a friend refurbish one and install it into his basement/garage shop corner for a total investment (parts and labor and all) of about $200 (US)... EASILY a justifiable price for a piece of equipment he's going to profit from over decades to come. AND chisels??? From poor steel to failure to temper the things, there's only a few dozen ways to screw up making a decent chisel... BUT finding a good one, even scaly-rusted and chipped is like stumbling onto a solid gold bar if you're unafraid to invest a little elbow grease and time (and as long as there's still enough metal left to bother)... In case you're interested, I usually draw the line on a "$5-gambler" at about 3 inches of "likely useful" blade left... I'll pick up shorter, but certainly not for "full price" as it were... Haggling comes with the territory, and while there are popular brands that are almost a guarantee, there are lesser known names that are certainly worth the risk... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 I agree, go all out on the saw IF you have the room for it. Like you I simply don't have the space for a large cabinet saw (I would love one though). This is why every benchtop tool I have is on carts, put them all in a row along the wall and when I need them just pull them out and put them where I have room (or even outside if it is a nice day). The cart for my table saw I even built in extensions that fold up/down to give me more support when needed. And while most of what you can do with a table saw can be done with a circular saw I still havent found a comfortable way to rip slammer width boards with it and have a straight edge. I have a few jigs that I have made/bought to do it but operation is sometimes awkward and that is never a good thing to mix with power tools.
I've got that same moisture meter and it works fine for getting a relative reading. For woodworking you don't really need it to be precise to within a percent or two, just to know that you're in the ballpark to be able to work with it. In the video it's all over the place because you're probably on the drywall setting. You need to click it over to softwood for that bench. Also not sure why you need the manual to use it - it's super straightforward. Turn it on, select either hardwood or softwood, and stick it on the material. Won't give the most accurate reading but enough to tell you when it's settled enough to start using.
So, the main takeaway is "Do not buy cheap tools"... Been there. Done my fair share of buying a cheap tool and then having to go out and buy the expensive, professional original. It's never worth buying the cheap stuff...
I fundamentally disagree with the kreg tool. Its a great apron tool and every tool is inaccurate until you use it properly. The rest of these tools are cheap versions of good tools. The waste of money is choosing to buy such cheap versions. Respectfully.
I’m coming around on the Multi-mark as a helpful tool, especially with the depth use case. The majority of the rest are definitely a function of low-price = low quality.
Totally agree. Its all about horses for courses. The tools a guy needs to build a house do not require the same degree of accuracy as those used by fine furniture makers eg you would never see a woodworker using a speed square to cut material for oak dressing table. The Kreg measuring tool is a carpenters tool, not a woodworkers tool.
Hey Mason, The longer I am doing woodworking I find that I need fewer tools. I'm mostly a hand tool woodworker now and enjoying it more. My projects the last two years were hand tools only and I admit it has been more fun although a bit slower. My customers seem more appreciative that they have something made entirely by hand. I do use electric lights part of the time though and when it's hot I turn on the electric fan. Is that cheating?
I bought a $15 Lowes hand plane and spent countless hours getting the bottom flat. In the end, i'm happy i bought it and fixed it up and it will get me by until I know more precisely what nice one i need to buy. The one purchase that I instantly returned was the Kreg Accucut, or whatever it is called. I had to make modifications for it to fit my circular saw and it was not precise at all. The wider the cut, the worse it got. Thank goodness for Woodcraft's generous return policy. Junk!
I bought a Dremel several years ago. It turned out to be useless for the job I bought it for, and subsequently useless for every job I've though "the Dremel would be good for that!" too. Total waste of money.
Ha, that's essentially my experience! I've mostly chocked it up to the knock-off Dremel that I bought, but it might just be that a small rotary tool wasn't the tight tool for the job.
The one use case I come up with albeit infrequently for the rotory tool usually involves the cutting wheel and having the cut metal in a very tight spot. In those cases, no other tool would have worked, so they do have a place.
Dremels are incredibly useful. Just not so much so for cabinetmakers and carpenters. I don't use one frequently, but when I do, it's often the only tool that will do the trick.
I recently got that same Dewalt Jigsaw. It is great for cutting out holes amd notches for flooring amd carpentry work. I love it. Especially with the Diablo blades
Like Clone said " the Dewalt is actually really good" I noticed that your setting was not straight up and down and actually the rotary setup. Also you did not have the anti chip plate installed. I have the Bosch cored version and now use the Dewalt which cuts better with the correct blade installed. sorry to rain on your parade.
Great notes on the jigsaw - I'm going to revisit it for some of the rough-cutting I do with charcuterie boards that don't fit on the band saw. My Bosch barrel-grip jigsaw (before going cordless) worked pretty well, so I think I just need to tune up the DeWalt and get used to the features.
The jig saw was my most helpful tool for cutting curves prior to getting my bandsaw. everything else you are pretty spot on. I bought the Wen rotary tool but it was nothing compared to the Dremel I got for Christmas from my parents, it seemed like a good deal for 30$, but the power and consistency wasn't there. my neighbor has a plug in Spray gun like that as well. It was not pleasant trying it out to paint my work table. I got it done, but I would always suggest a better quality one on Amazon.
Every time I think about getting a cheap tool, I end up deciding I'm better off with no tool. That has kept me from just buying a bunch of tools I might need. If I want a certain tool, I look at the best of the best, and then compare downward. I find that easier than starting off cheap and trying to compare upward. When comparing upward, price is the main focus over feature/quality gain. You think more about money than what you want to accomplish. When comparing downward, loss of features/quality is the focus over cost savings. You think more about what you want to do, and what the end result will be. Instead of thinking is it worth $50 more to get that feature, you're thinking is is worth loosing that feature to save $50. I don't always buy the most expensive tool, but I usually feel like I got the tool that will do what I need it to. There have been exceptions. I've come to dislike a lot of Amazon. They're turning into a flea market.
Awesome thoughts there, thanks for sharing Chip! I really like your approach to buying tools. I'm currently planning a "here are the tools to get started woodworking" and I'm realizing how many tools/accessories that I have that while they are useful for me, they are also unnecessary when it comes to the results. While Amazon can sometimes have deals on well-known name-brand tools, what they promote as "tools", "DIY", and "home improvement" products is absolutely brutal. Lots of lighting strips and cheap knock-off tools. Sad part is that it's not just with tools.
I agree. Took some years but I came around to the "what is 2 or 3 notches down from the best?" way of thinking. I rarely buy the king of the hill, but I save a lot of money and still get a lot of good capability by going for a high qualifying runner-up.
Agree re: Dremel , woodplaner and the saw . Disagree totally with the jigsaw . It's got so many uses . With a scroll blade you can cut quite delicate curves , or change blades and rip decking boards . 2nd tool I ever bought after my drill .
I've really come around on the jig saw and it's become a frequently-used tool in my shop! Just took the right blade and right setting to get it perfect.
Ooooooh - I really like that idea of using it for door reveals, great tip! I've been getting some good use cases for the multi-mark in the comments that make a lot of sense.
Correct. That indent around the whole body is for setting door casing. My multi-mark typically stays close to my aluminum brake for marking repeatable bends. I rarely take it out to a job.
I’m generally working with cabinetry projects these days, but when I do have inside curves I’ve often been defaulting to my cordless trim router, which has been doing a great job when I have appropriate templates on hand. I’m planning on playing around with the jigsaw now and making sure I’m using it properly.
@@MasonWoodshop I don't use mine often, but I'm glad to have it when I need it - or just when it's the quickest way to do a particular cut. First few times I used one I oversteered, tried to cut too fast, pushed sideways on the blade, etc. I got better.
There's an Afrikaans saying: Goedkoop koop is duur koop... Directly translated it says: buying cheap is bying expensive. It seems to be a common theme in this video.
Unfortunately it might sometimes be true, specifically when talking about something that is extremely cheap, but since quality of products is not inherently related to the price charged there is no general rule that cheaper is necessarily worse than more expensive.
@@teunipalm5790 well I'm Afrikaans not Dutch, so that is my frame of reference. It's a daughter language, so I would assume there are similar sayings in both.
I am sorry, that you have not found the use for the kreg multimarker. It really is a very good tool. I actually use it very much. The level is precise, and in my case, the angels are on spot. Maybe, because it was made for the European Market. I don't know if that makes the difference or not...
I’ve come around on it for a few things like reveals and measuring depths of grooves. Not nearly as bad as when I made this video, but still too much wobble to use it as a square.
With respect I'm gonna go against the populous here and say you've bought the issues upon yourself repeatedly buying cheap! However I agree about the jigsaw- vile piece of machinery! I hate them. For the record I saw video in my feed recently suggesting that a Lie Nielsen No4 didn't cut straight from the box.
Haha, I fully agree with you on me bringing on these issues myself by buying cheap! They were tools/accessories that were on my list and rather than save up for good quality versions, I went cheap to buy them earlier. Bad idea, haha!
@@MasonWoodshop don't get me wrong, I've only been woodworking a year or so, but starting out if I bought cheap I bought uses, rather than unbranded as a rule. I've had my share of shockers but I've started relisting them to other unsuspecting fools as I've learned better 🤣🤣🤣
I’m a bit late, I see your pinned comment but something that would have gave this video more value would have been to recommend a replacement for the jigsaw. Just some advice moving forward.
That’s a great point! For me, the bandsaw generally covered all of my shop needs with a coping saw generally used for more detailed work. I’m really liking the jigsaw now, though!!
I felt the entire video I wanted to break and smash all the tools you showed here. The wife calls in the Adrian test, I have broken many many shitty things in IKEA for example. But have it as a rule, if you can accidentally break items while in the store, it's the store trying to steal your money. I feel your pain on having spent money on this ;)
Hahahaha, your comment just made my morning! Half of them I wouldn’t have bought if I was able to touch them in store. Good thing is that I’ve learned my lesson.
lie nielsen handtools are the best tools to own for woodworking....i love all my lie nielsen tools....durable, ready to go out of the box, precisely machined, excellent workmanship in each tool and made in the usa...powertools are great for rough cutting dimensions, but hand tools are a must have in order to create a flawless finish....
I also want to say that stay away from any Harbor Freight "woodworking" tools that are used for any cutting, marking or measuring. The only thing I but from Harbor Freight are 1/8" drill birds for my counter sink drill bit, some of the clamps and the casters. And, any of the one time use items like acid brushes, small quite brushes and wire wheels for your drill. I did buy the 2-n-1 18g air stapler and bread nailer, the Diablo air hose and the purple gravity paint sprayer, those are worth it for getting started but will definitely upgrade in the near future
Ah yes, the wonderful world of Harbor Freight (rough equivalent here in Canada is Princess Auto). When visiting the USA, I've hit up Harbor Freight a few times and those coupons make some of the larger ticket items temping, but I've generally stuck to some of the cheap squeeze clamps and casters like you.
I've had great experiences with dewalt tools. Everything else there looks like low quality harbor freight garbage and it just goes to show you that it's true when you get the quality you pay for.
Quick update on this one - I've come around big-time on the jigsaw. With some proper "fine" blades and learning to use it at the higest speed, it's cutting through plywood and 3/4" hardwood like butter with virtual no tearout. While I'll still use my router for getting that final curved edge using templates, this tool is great for rough-cutting and for cabinery toe-kicks!
The other one that I've come around a little bit on is the Kreg Multi-Mark - I'm still not thrilled with the little bit of wobble if you're trying to use it as a square, but as a few commentors have mentioned, the 0 degree slide capability is great for reveals.
I was going to flat out say you are wrong On the jig saw LOL
I still say you should know better than to disrespect the jigsaw.
Totally. I use mine almost daily.
I agree with update. Jig saw is great love using it. Especially for cutting metal. Also love using the Kreg jig for doing window and door reveals best tool I have for that.
I would also say that the jigsaw is good before for cutting rough lumber to length before resawing as it's the electric hand tool with the longest reach, and also not dangerous if the material isn't that flat.
Seems a bit odd that a guy who states that he bought the tools because they are cheap then turns around and complains that the tools he bought are cheap. You expected something different?
and then turns around and will resell them to somebody else ...
Apparently you missed the title of the video, perhaps you need to reread it.
Every now and then tho, you hit a cheapo, great quality tool. It does happen. And the opposite can happen too, you pay a lot of money for a tool that is shite.
It is "odd" to make a mistake and regret it? Not sure how you can make a video of the mistake you made while telling your personal experience without actually making the mistake in the first place ....
@@dmaginnisiv some mistakes are obvious, even before you make them.
Like - you buy cheap tools made of plastic, chances are, the plastic is cheap and bad.
In other news: rain is wet, and Trump lost, again. duh.
Cheap tools that are actually good? Newsworthy.
Cheap tools that are bad? Not as much.
A jigsaw is an incredibly useful tool. Mainly for curved or shaped cuts, not straight ones. Cut slightly bigger and can belt sand or palm sand after initial cut to finish precisely if required. One of my first power tools 20yrs ago when I started out, and even then knew how useful it would be.
I’ve come around big-time on the jigsaw in the past couple of weeks! Getting clean cuts after taking some of the feedback in these comments. It won’t be an often-used tool for me, but for rough curves (with surprisingly no tearout)and toe-kicks, it’s going to be great!
@@MasonWoodshop use a scroll jigsaw blade for fine smooth cuts and less expensive than a bandsaw too!
@@GuitarsAndSynths Yes, exactly! Now that I've come around on the jigsaw, I'm finding that my bandsaw is often just collecting dust. Might sell it to free up some space.
@@MasonWoodshop you may regret it when the next project comes around where a bandsaw would be the ticket. I keep what works for a given task even if I may only use it once a year. Because when I need it, it gets the job done efficiently. Otherwise you could get trapped in a cycle of buying cheap tools just to get a job done and ending up with a bunch of crap tools that make the craft less enjoyable or profitable. I hope this helps!
Jigsaw is a must-have. Actually I’ve found over the years my Dremel rotary also very useful.
I love my Dremel tool, have had it for 20 years and it has handled so many unwieldy jobs for me. Grinding, awkward cutoffs, detail polishing, tight-quarters sanding and shaping, and I'm forgetting probably a dozen other jobs I was happy it did. I'm glad you found a way to fit the jigsaw into your work. Don't need mine often (thus, I chose corded), but it is a gem of a tool when I do!
I agree, but I also don't use my Dremel to sharpen mower blades or as a router!
@@philipmorgan5050 Heh. No, I hope not!
Yep 100% I have my Dremel for over 20 yrs and have nothing to complain infact it has got me out of jam so many times.
I don't use a jigsaw that much but when I do I invariably wish I had a cordless one instead of corded.
I agree with everything except the jigsaw. Not use much in cabinet making but lots for carpentry. Use it mostly for coping. But couldn't live without it.
Thanks for watching and great feedback on coping with the jigsaw - I’m going to keep that in mind!
I use a grinder with sandpaper attachment for coping faster and easier
@@dennismbrandi same. Found that trick out for coping, won’t go back to mitering inside corners again.
@@MasonWoodshop the dremel knockoff is great for coping as well
I’ve used jigsaws for breaking down hardwoods in my cabinet shop for years. So much easier than a chop saw. Switching to a cordless one has been awesome. A must have daily used tool in my shop.
Best woodworking tool I have... blue painters tape. Helps with marking wood; allows you to mock up/glue up your smaller projects; reduces tear-out when sawing/milling boards; almost as good as having a second pair of hands. It does so much for such a simple item. There's always a couple of rolls in my shop.
Yes!!! Painters tape is always great to have in the shop for those exact reasons. Very versatile!
Yeah it's great. I definitely need to keep a roll in my Packout
I absolute love my kreg multi mark. While it isn't the most stout and well made tool, i don't think it's crap. I've had mine going on 2 years and use it all the time doing trim and cabinetry. Never had an issue with it not being 90°\45° when set properly.
And as a carpenter I use my jig saw all the time. Couldn't get by with out it
Use mine all the time too.
I dont think this guy is doing work professionally. The Kreg tool has an offset for casing, a jigsaw is indispensible, a dremel is for hobbyists, carvers, or metalwork/sharpening, but a carbide burr makes a huge difference in how useful it is.
Strap/box clamps? Really? Free cord from home depot = same. Should punch some holes in that workbench for using as a jig to clamp to.
The layout tools he bought are gimmicks and have always been gimmicks, get a 2 foot bosch digital miter guage (looks like an electric 2 foot level) and a fiberglass folding stick rule, then learn to use it.
The block planes are exact copies of more expensive planes that dont have a patent anymore. Literally the same heel, granted the irons might be softer steel, but to set them, loosen it up, zero it on a flat surface, lay 1 layer of masking tape on a surface and drop the iron behind that. 1 and done, takes about 0.012"
I love my Kreg multi mark. I can easily see that tool being by my side for many years.
Exactly. It’s more for trim carpentry than anything, but you actually have to know how to use it.
Seems the prevailing theme is “CHEAP”
how much time and money will you spend on cheap tools? Certainly more over time than an expensive tool. I nearly choked on the price of Woodpeckers Squares but those literally sell for the same price used on Ebay lol. Even Starrett used combo squares are nearly the price of new
@@brewtalityk Exactly. Time being the most important factor for me personally.
The handsaw I have looks exactly like that one you have. Mine is a Sandvik, I have had it for over 40 years it still cuts like a dream. Great tool and because I care for my tools it never rusted.
my grandfather taught me a lesson 60 years ago. "The most expensive tool you will ever buy is a cheap one." I've found that to be true. You'll either buy it then realize how crappy it is then buy the better one, be replacing it a lot THEN buying a good one, or, worst, actually hurt yourself trying to use it - maybe resulting in a hospital/ER visit before getting the good version.
Definitely great advice!
Depends.... I buy a lot of stuff at Harbor Freight that has worked has for many years
I use my Dewalt jigsaw all the time. Use it to cut toe kicks, sheet rock, metal, and all sorts of things. You just need the right blade and adjust it right.
Exactly...my dewalt jigsaw is awesome...i can do smooth and fine cuts with it...a must have for a woodworker if u know how to maximize its use.
Glad someone knows what they are talking about. Jigsaws are great.
YUP! Most problems with Jigsaws is that people use the wrong blade and they want to "horse" it through the wood like they are in a race.
Also can add a zero clearance plate to the base for cleaner cuts. A must have for flooring jobs.
I am glad I am not the only one cringing at him saying a jig saw is not for woodworking. Poor advice. Use the right blades and technique for the application and clean cuts are very achievable. He even he says he uses it regularly to break down lumber at the yard.. seems worth it to me!
The multi mark is a measure marking tool not a framing square. It definitely makes laying out hinges and knobs easier. Also a good start to set up blade and router depth.
Kreg multi mark is an amazing addition to my tools. I love it.
I bought my Wen 2305 rotary tool in January 2021 and I've found it to be serviceable. I'd like to note that the entire kit, including the flex shaft, costs less than the Dremel flex shaft by itself. I also own a Dremel 4000 but decided to dedicate it to a drill press configuration.
I've never regretted buying expensive tools. Well made tools are a pleasure to use, will get used often, and you soon forget the pain of paying for it. Every time I buy something cheap to save a bit of money, it ends up annoying me every time I use it.
I spent the money on two Dewalt sanders that died just over a year. Fried convinced me I got a lemon the first time.
My first sander, the cheapest they had lasted years. It owed me nothing. The sander I have now is 5 years old, cheapest at the store, abused and still running.
Name brands use to mean quantity, but most are just made in China junk now.
Yeah, we all have a great number of tools that we almost never use. I suppose too much time watching TH-cam and listening to various 'influencers' leads us to make rash purchase choices - especially when we go for the 'budget' version. Buy cheap; buy twice!
Even the expensive hand planes have to be 'tuned up' out of the box. The key factor is whether or not it keeps its settings when you dial it in. Even cheap planes can work well once tuned up.
I came to write this EXACT comment.
Rex Kreuger has some pretty good videos that will show a beginner how to set up a plane. Most of those I learned from was how to refurbish an old plane, but 1/2 the video applies to setting up a plane, no matter if first time or refurbish.
Wrangler star had one on tuning up like a $15 hand plane, which started with a couple hours of sanding the bottom flat on a piece of glass or granite. Someday I might get there lol
Got my hands on a Stanley no. 4, and no matter how much time I spent sharpening the iron it didn't really work until I sanded the bottom flat. Rather laborous couple of hours, but it made a world of difference in the end. Took it from unusable to fine!
Rob Cosman has several videos on tuning planes. He obviously always recommends getting better tools, but i have used his tips to make a cheap $35 home depot plane work "better". Not like my woodriver plane but i can now use it for rough planing.
You buy hand tools to spend the time making them work for you, or you should just mill out your work pieces before you start the finishing process. But I like to take my time to get to "KNOW" my equipment first.
I agree. IF one wants a Dremel, best to buy one. The other knock-offs do not have the power to do the things you might be hoping for. But, that said, once you have a good Dremel, the uses are endless. Just have to jump in and get used to it.
That dremel style tool can be extremely useful - depending on what u are doing. First - get a decent Dremel tool ( I have a Wizard - compatible with all dremel accessories). I do Lutherie work - a lot of touch up and detail work. I use it for fabrication, trimming, polishing etc. It's designed for small intricate operations.
That sort of detail work was why I bought it in the first palace - you’re absolutely right in buying a good quality Dremel-tool. Thanks for sharing!
I bought a couple B&D RTX rotary tools when they were closing them out. They're OK. I've had real Dremels too. Blown a couple up. I also have a Foredom flex shaft tool. If I need real power I have Rotozips and pneumatic die grinders. But there's a lot the little rotary tools can do. You just have to work within their limitations.
@@1pcfred Problem with pneumatic die grinders, even the wee ones comparable to a Dremel, is how much air they use. No an issue in an auto shop, can be a problem for many home woodworkers.
@@johnsanford3596 die grinders are not high flow tools. They're maybe 4-6 CFM so you don't need a giant compressor to handle one. Need a bit more than a little pancake job though.
My Dremel rotary tool has saved me hundreds, if not thousands of dollars on many different types of repair projects. I use the cutoff wheels and grinding stones the most.
Something to note with the jigsaw, I was pretty frustrated with mine, and I had a cheaper one than yours, so I didn't use it much. I recently upgraded the blades to diablo, and its a whole different machine. If it's not working well for you, and your getting chatter, chances are the blade your using is blunt or not the correct blade/shit blade. Hope this helps!
You're exactly right, Jay! I upgraded my blades and also tried out different speed settings for different materials. It all made a huge difference and I now really like my jigsaw.
Yes, unless you only cut Jell-O with your jigsaw, buy good, appropriate blades. Avoid any of dollar store or Jobmate 25 for a dollar type garbage.
I'd use every one of those rotary tool accessories, send them my way!
Just to quickly chime in. Many here believe opposite extremes when it comes to cost of a tool. The old "buy once, cry once " doesn't always apply. Neither does " but the cheapest workable you can". I live by something i discovered a long time ago. If you have it in your hands and/or use it daily, spend on the best you can afford. For the occasional use tools, spend only what covers your needs, and no more. Tools to spend on IMO are as follows-
Measuring and marking tools EX- squares of all kinds, tape measures, angle finders ( mechanical and digital). The more accurate they are, the more accurate you can be.
This one is odd but works-
Clothing. If your on your feet all day and they suffer, your work suffers. A decent apron is also your friend.
And last but not least, any tool that helps you be more efficient on a day to day basis. If woodworking is what pays the mortgage and puts food on the table, the more productive you can be, the more you can earn over time. And efficient tool pays for itself many times over in time, where inefficient tools cost multiples thier initial purchase price in legacy.
My .02 cents.
Ps- im a professional cabinet maker and bench carpenter by trade. These are lessons hard earned over time.
Awesome insights, thanks for sharing! I think that’s an ideal approach.
I do something similar. If I'm not sure about a tool I'll buy a cheap one, if I end up using it to death then i'll buy a quality version. Quality being the important distinction because price and quality aren't always directly related.
100% agreed that cheap measuring and marking tools are a waste of time (imo it should be illegal to sell a square that isn't square).
Same goes for cutters and blades. A cheap saw blade will perform like ass, get dull fast and end up in the trash, good blades are a long term investment and can be sharpened multiple times.
I use the jigsaw all the time. Recently put up a french cleat panel that needed a cutout in the middle for an electrical outlet. Drilled two holes and used the jigsaw. I also needed to cut some angle iron but couldn't use the grinder. Used the jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and some cutting oil. Worked perfect.
That's awesome! I've really come around on the jigsaw and have started using it a lot recently. The right blade and right speed have made a huge difference!
Remember the old saying that "the poor man pays twice!" Any tool with the name "craft" indicates what market it is aimed at. Lol.
Seems like my guy LOVES crying. Ten items, all "super cheap." 🤦♂️
Old sayings aren't always correct though. There is a very definite role for cheap tools. Perhaps there is tool you've never used - and you're not sure you'll need. Go ahead and buy a cheap one - maybe you find you really don't need a tool for that job - maybe it collects dust for months between uses. Maybe, although cheap, it does the job just fine. Either way, you saved money. Only if you find that this is a tool you use often and for which the cheap one doesn't quite cut it...go buy a fancy one.
Example #1: I bought a cheap lathe...turns out I really don't need a lathe more than once every couple of years - so it mostly collects dust. I'm very glad I didn't go crazy. Sometimes what you imagine to be very useful, just isn't.
Example #2: I bought a cheap Japanese hand-saw - turns out I love the reverse cutting action, the flexible blade and the straight handle. I found I was using it a hell of a lot, often reaching for it in place of my chop-saw. So I splurged on a set of three really classy ones and dumped all of my other hand saws. But buying the best at the outset could easily have been a waste of money had I not found it to my liking. Sometimes you don't know what you'll like until you try it for a while.
Example #3: I bought a very sexxy $800 Prusa 3D printer - it has a ton of automation and clever capabilities - and it worked just fine. But a few months ago, a no-name company in China offered me a free $190 3D printer in exchange for nothing more than an honest review. That printer is very simple, quite "unfussy" - but it's just so astoundingly useful (because of that simplicity) that I rarely use the $800 Prusa - and would NEVER have bought it if I'd had the $190 printer first. Sometimes, (but definitely not always) cheaper is actually better.
"Quality" is an elusive property and it doesn't always correlate with "price". Sometimes, cheaper is better...and very, VERY often - cheaper is "plenty good enough".
So I'm generally OK with buying cheap - and upgrading if-and-when I need to. I strongly disagree with just always going out and buying the most expensive thing...if nothing else, if your budget is less than infinite, owning a greater variety of cheaper tools may very well get the job done faster and more easily than with a smaller number of over-engineered tools that cost you a fortune.
Cheap isn't always terrible though.
Most of my benchtop tools are on carts so I can roll them around the garage (Tablesaw/Miter saw/Drill press). I started out buying expensive supposedly great casters for those carts thinking I needed that. The original casters that I spent pretty big on ($20 per caster) lasted a year before starting to get hard to move, I've now had cheap casters off of amazon for 2 years and they still glide around my garage ($15 per 4 pack). Not to mention the cheap casters are just objectively easier to work with, wider brake pedals on them make it easier to set and release the brakes with my foot.
Clamps are another good example. Why pay $15 for a Irwin clamp when you can buy 3 of the same size from Harbor freight? Will it last as long as the Irwin? No. But it will last long enough that the 3 will outlive the one. Also helps with the other saying which is "You never have enough clamps"
@@SteveBakerIsHere I have a set of cheap chisels I use for anything and can resharpen them to a razor sharp edge on my tormek but the fact that were cheap means I'll use them to scrap caulking off the brick or wail on them with a hammer to break a weld, wouldn't do that with my good set
@@Galgamoth Yeah - I agree. There is nothing wrong with having expensive, high quality tools - but to say that those are the ONLY tools you should ever have is ridiculous.
I've got 3 of those Kreg multi marks, I use them a lot for finishing or transferring measurements. Plus it has the reveal built in so you can always get your door and window frames perfect. I love it. I have a Dewalt jigsaw and I don't use it all the time but enough I'm glad I own it. And my moisture meter I use it to show clients their walls and how wet they are up and then recommend we redo the part above a certain moisture.
I agree with 80% of what you said.
The jigsaw, very useful for me. To be fair, you did clarify that it wasn't useful for your woodworking, but I see that you since discovered just how useful it can be. I guess you learned a little something from your own video.
I have one of those plastic angle finders. I have gotten a ton of use out of mine. Yes, it's cheap plastic, but it has worked well for me. I bought it to make a coffin-shaped bookcase for my daughter and I got dead-on results with it. I agree, it can be a little difficult to read, but in the end, it has been a valuable tool for me.
I've wanted a sprayer for a long time and I didn't let myself get suckered in by a cheap solution. I finally bought the Earlex 5500. There are plenty of better sprayers out there, but I love what it has done for me.
As for hand planes, I haven't bought any but I'm also hesitant to buy any until I have the money to also buy the tools to keep them in good working order, e.g. sharpening. It's like buying a Mercedes or a Porsche. You might be able to afford the monthly payment, but if you can't afford the up-keep, you have no business buying one. So, when I can afford the supporting tools, I'll start buying good planes.
Great comment, thank you! Yeah, the jigsaw was a sore spot for a while, but I'm using a lot now with great results - really quite refreshing!
Funny enough, I just trimmed out my entire basement and I used that little angle finder to get rough estimates - it wasn't super-precise, but it was often "accurate enough" for my needs at the time.
I have a couple of larger cabinetry builds coming up, so i'm going to invest in a good sprayer - that Earlex 5500 will be on my short list!
I have a cheap unbranded rotery tool I bought over twenty years ago, for diy. It's still going strong. I bought a Dremel mini circular saw a while ago. the motor packed up after a few months of light diy use. the Bosch I replaced it with is a much better tool. The take-aways for me are; cheap tools were better quality than they are today, and brand names are not always the best indicator of quality.
Awesome takeaways, thanks for sharing!
Bosch owns Dremel. So when you buy a Dremel you're buying Bosch. Bosch owns a number of brands. Like Rotozip. I've swapped accessories between my Bosch Colt router and a Rotozip I have. Threads right on. Old tools are subject to survivor bias. What we see today are the good ones because they're what survived over time. Which makes us think everything in the past must have been that good. In reality the garbage in the past got tossed out long ago. So it skews perception.
I agree. Dremel is junk. Won't survive even slightly difficult use. The motor is poorly protected, and just takes a powder after any kind of stress.
@@1pcfred No different than people so dedicated and loyal to a "Brand Name" when actuality that "loyalty" is based on the quality it used to be before corporate cut corners to increase their profit margin.
Also, as with any type of product - someone comes up with a good quality (and therefore popular) item and some big name company will buy them out and immediately lower the quality hoping that people will remain loyal based upon remembering what it used to be before "Big Name" trashed it for profits.
@@AFmedic that's why I'm sworn to fun and loyal to none. It is just not worth investing yourself into others.
For the record, that DeWalt jigsaw is awesome. I've used it for cutting 18 gauge steel to 2x12 stair stringers. Tons of power and smooth. Feels good in your hand like all DeWalt tools. It's definitely a versatile tool. What would you use in place of it or is it that you don't really need it for most projects. You could use it to cut moons in outhouse doors haha.
I’ve really come around on the jigsaw since posting this video. The right blade and right speed made a big difference in the quality of the cut - glad I got some helpful advice in these comments!
@@MasonWoodshop hell yeah, just subscribed. I'm a framer by trade but have been slowly dipping my toes in the water for years. Always good to find new content.
I love that jigsaw but then again I love all tools. Definitely have a problem haha.
We use 1 at work to cut step stringers lol.
Wow, I agree in most, but the Kreg ruler I own, does not wiggle even after years of dropping it. I use it frequently and am surprised someone else is dissatisfied by it. I was actually thinking of getting a second one, just to find faster when I misplace it.
Happy to hear that you have no wiggle, might be that mine is faulty for some reason. I have been using it recently for consistent depths out of one end and I've been happy with the multi-mark for that purpose.
Kreg multi mark is worth every penny. A handy companion for the woodworker/carpenter
I have the same moisture meter, I found it very intuitive and accurate. So long as you have it on the correct settings
I disagree with the kreg jig multi mark being useless. i work in a cabinet shop and using at least two of them speeds up putting drawer fronts on more than you would think. I typically don't us them like a combination square but who would. also they are great for trimming out door jams.
Kreg multi mark is money well spent
Hey man I had the same “chatter” problem on my Dewalt jigsaw, then I turned the knob (near the metal xr logo) all the way to the right. Literally PERFECT cuts now. That knob determines the angle at which the blade cuts and I’ve found the greater the angle, the more chatter! It will make your cuts very precise so you can use it for more than rough cuts. Give it a try!
That's exactly what I did! I've come to really like my jigsaw since posting this video once I dialed in the settings and used the right blade for the job.
Got a Woodriver 5 1/2 jack plane. My next plane will be Woodriver if I can’t afford the top two brands. Worked beautifully out of the box and after a little work on the blade I was in love.
I hear a lot of good things about Woodriver and the quality-to-price ratio.
Good list but disagree on the Kreg multi mark. Love using it to transfer measurements and do spot checks.
Thanks for sharing, Abey! I'll make sure to keep it in mind the next time I need to transfer measurements to give it more of a fair trial.
Same here. When I’m hanging trim I don’t put that thing down strictly for the uniform and consistent reveal. Also laying down lines along a board’s edge.
I agree. I use this all the time and would buy again if I lost it.
Agree ... The multimark should not be used as a square ... But it's great to check and transfer measurements
So happy you guys are saying that. When I clicked on this video I immediately saw the Kreg Multi Mark and realized that I bought it over month ago and have never used it! I'm not cheap, but I really don't like wasting money on something Il never use. The good news is that I do doors semi-regularly so I will indeed use it 👍
The Rotary tool is about the most useful tool I have along with the battery powered drill/screwdriver and you guessed it the Jigsaw. That with a router and you can basically do a whole lot of odd jobs around the house. Basically those 4 are for me a starter kit. need a straight line from a jigsaw well some clamps and 2 pieces of anything straight and you can make yourself a poor mans table/circular saw.
It is advised by the professionals that you fettle every hand plane after the purchase. Some take less and some take more than others. I think fettling your plane may set it more in tune with how an individual uses the plane (i.e. the particular pressure an individual may put on it and how they use it on a particular stroke.) Well worth the time and effort to get maximum results.
I would not recommend that with a Lie-Nielsen out of the box. Those have precision in my experience and I feel like someone could mess one up.
I agree with you. Im a joiner of 30 years plus and this guy hs no clue regarding planes. At the least he has half dis assembled the plane to put a cutting edge on or I would have hoped he knows that.
One major problem we face today is that although the big box stores carry everything from nails to to toilets, they carry very few woodworking tools. This forces us to look online at tools that appear good or interesting but after purchasing them, not so much. We have to rely on other folk's reviews etc. that are usually biased in some way and are heavily marketing driven to get views and subscriptions. Don't sell the jigsaw. You might find uses for it later on, like cutting PVC pipe when installing a sprinkler system. I use the multimark all the time for depth measurement. I have a Paolini rule from WoodPecker's that cost triple and I never use it. The multimark is easier to read and use for some reason. Cheap plastic, yes, but all of Kreg's tools use this type of plastic. It works and if this one ever breaks, I will probably just go out a buy another one. Thanks for the video and stay safe.
Amazing insight, thanks for sharing!
You're absolutely right that marketing-driven reviews (whether by the manufacturer, or just the potential for more views) are becoming more-and-more prevalent. The jigsaw and multi-mark are the two that I've come around on - the jigsaw was always going to stay for DIY purposes, and some of the comments here about the multi-mark have changed my thoughts on it for a couple of use cases (still won't use it as a square due the wobble).
The plastic angle template is awesome for tileing floor when u have door frame close to a recessed wall u can get the full measurment or stairway next to railing post ...I love this tool
The Kreg Multi-Mark is probably the tool I am using the most - daily, over already 3 years now. Took a lot of beating, and even if its made mostly out of plastic, it is definitely a quality product. Don't understand your rant about it.
Kreg multi mark is a great addition to my arsenal of tools. His must be defective or something because mine is completely square. I can see the Kreg being by my side for years
I don’t use the angle features on Kreg tool. I do use it for depth marking/measuring. You didn’t mention the 3/16” reveal ledge that I use a lot for marking window/door trim location.
After posting this and getting comments, I've started using it for that exact same case - reveals and trim placement! Easy to use and much lighter than the adjustable squares I have around.
I use an orbital jigsaw for shaped cuts for things like cat tree platforms, or cutting circular holes for speaker enclosures, and for those types of cuts, a jigsaw works great. If I need to break down lumber, I just use a 6.5" cordless deep-cut circular saw.
Jigsaws are amazing, they are basically miniature bandsaws you can use for 99% the work you would otherwise need a bandsaw for; with the right blades and a bit of practise - and if you get creative, with jigs - it is unbelievably versatile; I'm definitely one of the people here that would recommend a jigsaw as an essential tool.
I've come around big time on the jigsaw and agree that it could be an essential tool for beginners. My issue mostly stemmed from the wrong speed and the wrong blade. Once I dialed that in, I'm getting clean and quick cuts!
Like nearly all tools, it takes practice and patience to learn best how to use them. I’ve never considered a jigsaw a finish tool, but invaluable for odd cuts in odd places. It then, I’m a handyman and not a cabinetmaker. 😜
@@MasonWoodshop You can also build an inverted jigsaw table. It has similar stability of a bandsaw but will let you cut inside a piece which you can't do with a bandsaw. It'll, in theory, handle thicker materials than a scrollsaw. It's sort of an in-between of a bandsaw and scrollsaw.
@@JamesKelly89 Funny enough, I'm selling my band saw tomorrow (doesn't see much use and takes up a lot of room in my one-car garage shop), so this tip is quite helpful! Thank you.
@@MasonWoodshop Oh wow! You couldn't get me to part with my bandsaws. I have a smaller one, a 12" Craftsman with a 1/8" blade, for scrolling and a bigger more powerful one, a 14" Delta with a 1/2" blade, for resawing. It'd take an act of God (or my wife haha) to get me to part with my bandsaw. I'm actually planning on getting a bigger motor and a riser for the Delta at some point.
Thanks for taking the time to put out the video. Your hand plane story sums it up. I have a bunch of plane videos and believe a razor sharp blade is about 85% of the challenge. If you can't do that, then you'll never be happy using them. Even Lie Nielsens will only last about 15 minutes before the blade is less than razor sharp, then you're in the same boat. I also appreciate your updates on the jig saw. I use mine a few times/year because it's by far the best tool for certain things. I find cutting thin metal a good use when a hack saw just isn't going to do it. Thanks again.
The handsaw is great for if you ever deal with dimensional lumber that has gone twisted and you need it to be a manageable size, and rough wood (like firewood that you might want to take slices from). Since *most* large power tools require regularity of some sort (square, or at least a straight line on some axis), the handsaw can be the far safer starting point for the small shop. They’re also great for pieces that are too small to easily cut with a power tool. Japanese pull saws are superior choices for precise joinery and small cuts, but I highly recommend learning how to use push saws because, while they do have a steeper learning curve, they excel at dealing with thicker stock and are more energy efficient than pull saws.
I've got four of those strap clamps and haven't used them recently, but they were great when I had a dozen wooden trays with mitered joints to clamp. That's the kind of joint they work well with. I've tried others types of clamps* and they just don't align mitered corners right without wasting a LOT of time. I do agree the straps can be a mess. Helps to unroll only what you need, and use a rubber band or Velcro strap to keep the rest coiled up. There are also some tricks to applying them that make life easier (e.g. lay them out on a surface first then position the box sides in the middle. Then tighten it up. Use spacers under the corner pieces if you need them higher up the sides. Don't try to work with it in mid-air.)
* In fact, most of those other corner clamps qualify as my waste of money. I used them a couple of times, but now, for the same kinds of joints I just use ratchet clamps and clamping blocks.
Awesome idea about the Velcro straps!
Ive noticed 1 commonality with all your regrettable purchases is "cheap".. I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for.. If you want a quality tool that works properly, you must be willing to pay for that in cold hard cash.
Absolutely agree, Jason! Most of these purchases were from when I was more about quantity of tools/accessories, rather than actually buying the best I could afford when I actually needed them. A good learning experience for any beginner.
The problem with cheap hand planes is that they deter people from going further into woodworking. If you want a good plane, buy a used Stanley type 19 or earlier. You can find good users or ones that have been tuned up, but chances are you’ll throw some time into tuning it up yourself, which will be worth the effort. Just learn the cheap features on cheap hand planes and why they are not worth the effort. Then go get a vintage Stanley and when you take the first very fine shaving off a board, you’ll be glad you went vintage.
Great comment. My first hand plane I bought at Lowes. I returned it the next day lol
Something I learned early in life: don’t buy cheap tools.
Cheap tools aren't good and more importantly, good tools aren't cheap.
Since fish respond well to shiny lures, I use my rotary tool (a cordless Dremel) to clean and polish metal fishing lures (spoons, spinner blades, etc) with abrasive and polishing buff wheels. Also occasionally polish painted lures. And, while I have the tool out, I also tend to clean or polish anything around the shop (rulers, tools, blades, etc) that catches my eye.
Most regretful is a non-sliding miter saw. Made do with only a miter saw (no table saw) for many years. If it was at least a slider, I wouldn't have needed to be nearly as creative in getting home improvement done. Other than that, I've been very careful in my tools purchases. Wheelchair dynamics can dramatically alter how a tool is used, even hand tools, so you really have to think things through if you can.
9:20 Gave me flashbacks to my old Wagner Power Painter. I had both the roller and sprayer, completely horrible. I ended up repainting the room it looks so bad. And it took me longer to clean the thing than it did to paint the room with a brush and rollers!
1,000 % true.
I had the sprayer with the backpack. Not for long, though.
There are so many tools out there .... from saws to clamps to 5axis NC routers...... most of the time we truly don't need them. Some of the best work I've ever seen is done with the basics. I use a 2.5 axis NC router with old school hand planes making large tables . . . Most of the time the NC router is just leveling my large live edge planks... its nice and easy ... BUT all I really need to do this is a router bridge ....It just comes down to time and money .... the NC router allows me to work on something else as the unit levels my work... Allowing me to make more money... But that money then goes to pay for the NC router... I see this a lot in tooling.
Finding that sweet spot of what you really need to make money and do good work. Most of the time we dont understand what we truly need until we have what we really don't need.. I for 1 have so many tools that just set now..
Great insights, thanks for sharing! It's really quite impressive what can be built with just a handful of tools - the rest really are luxuries.
Good info! Coincidentally, I used my jigsaw today to cut some u-channels in some drawer bottoms (where the drain pipe will go on a bathroom vanity). Usually I use the bandsaw for stuff like that, but the drawers are 30+inches wide and they wouldn’t fit. Thanks for the great content!
Thanks for watching! Funny enough, bathroom vanity drain pipe is where I've used the jigsaw a couple of times, although I did use a hole saw for the curved part.
Exactly, plus a jig comes in any big bundle, it has its own uses just dont buy it outside of a deal or a bundle
I bought a plane and block plane from Harbor Freight, and took some time and REALLY sharpened the blades, and they do fine. Biggest complaint is that the handle is too small for my hand. Clearly isn't the quality of a Leigh or Stanley, but I don't care if it gets beat up.
Thanks for sharing and I really like the idea of not worrying about it getting beat up. I've kept these hand planes and usually just use them for rough construction jobs. For those jobs, they generally work well-enough and I don't get bothered if there are chips on the blades.
@@MasonWoodshop Yeah, this was just a quick way to fill a gap until I got around to buy a quality tool. I have a nice granite block that I can use for sharpening a blade or for flattening a working surface. So some of these tools can be made to do a decent job, and later you can still get a few bucks out of them at a yard sale, or you can pass it down to a kid or new woodworker.
Dremel does the same thing when it comes to counting how many items are in a kit. As for the grit I don't think they generally say either. It's sort of irrelevant for the typical use of those sanding bits. Overall though rotary tools are very useful to have around.
Jigsaws seem to have their lovers and their haters. One woodworker will have it amongst the tools they couldn't do without and another will consider it impossible to use. What I do know is having a decent blade and using the right blade matters. Put a scroll blade in even the cheapest name brand jigsaw and you can accurately and quite quickly cut complicated shapes.
I'm not sure how people judge whether plastic is cheap or not. I don't know what Kreg use, but I doubt it is easy to tell the formulation that easily.
I've definitely come around to the need/want to work a bit more with the jigsaw to get it working well (it does see use with some DIY projects from time-to-time).
I would not say I use rotary tools much woodworking but they are handy to have in the workshop. Drums are like coarse and fine. Some Wen tools are kind of crappy. I would not call a jigsaw a fine woodworking tool. But they can have their uses. Not everything I make is Chippendale furniture either. As far as judging the quality of plastic goes I think folks go by the finish, the heft, the hardness, flex. If it feels flimsy then it probably is. If it just up and breaks that's never a good sign. I had these plastic brackets break holding slides in my kitchen cabinets. I was not happy. So I milled new brackets out of HDPE I'd home cast. Let's see those brackets break. Of course the brackets I made were 10 times thicker. I was not going to do a call back on that job. I just put unreasonably large chunks in there. The floor will give out before my brackets do. But the original brackets were definitely cheap plastic.
I think for the most part all of the tools except for the General angle tools are well worth having in the shop.
Yes a new woodworker may not need some at first but if you have the money why not. I use most of these yools on a regular basis. I may not do projects that require them all the time but I get a lot of weird requests for making different items. That being said I can use that side money from the project to buy the tool and expand my wheelhouse or skip out on learning something new.
With all that I feel the main point, it has been stated already a few different ways is Don't buy cheap expecting it to take the place of a quality tool. There are a few exceptions but do your homework first. Impulse will not only waste your money but time and frustration as well.
Like others have said a Jigsaw in my opinion is a must have. If nothing else just for building jigs which we all use on a daily basis.
1 last note if you have tools you don't use try pulling them out and designing a small project just for that tool. We learn from it and you never know it might be youre ticket who knows.
If not try donating the tools or do a hive away on you channel I'm sure someone can put them to use
CHEAP USUALLY IS JUST THAT.
Get out build something and enjoy your passion.
I love my dremel and use it to sign/date every piece I make. The bits I use are drill bits I got from my dentist (free) and I still have hundreds left from the original batch she gave me. Having said that, you're right, most of those things that come with it are marketing junk.
I got a deWalt 18v cordless jigsaw 20years ago and it is still going strong. Great tool!
Very much like yourself, I've bought el cheapo stuff for those "one off" jobs and regretted it immediately. Sure, they might cut a board in half but you have to fight with it, spend time to clean up the crappy edges etc. It took me time but I eventually learnt to buy a decent, medium price tool for that odd job AND, I have no qualms to lend them out. People are happy to borrow and they don't think to ask me for my precious. Yes my little precious. Shopping with my sister once, I put a top quality item in the trolley and she said 'you can get so and so brand for half the price'. My reply - 'I'd rather spend twenty dollars on something I really enjoy than ten bucks on something I hate'.
Awesome approach! Thanks for sharing.
I agree with most of this with the exception of the Dewalt Jig saw. It is certainly not a "fine" woodworking tool but it is one of the handiest saws around for quick roughing work(battery powered). I love mine and it is one of the smoothest jig saws I've ever owned.
I’ve really come around on the jigsaw and use it all the time now. Just took some time to figure out the right settings and the right blades for the job!
It is refreshing to see your honesty on your tools. I will find the time to go through my tools and ‘spring clean’.
Thank you for the kind words!
Disagree with the Kreg Multi-Mark. Glad you came around on it. I use it for window casings and door casing reveals. Perfect every time.
Great list! The only one I disagree with is the jigsaw. It’s great when you are starting out because it’s pretty versatile. A bit of jack of all trades. However as you acquire more tools eventually almost everything you can do with a jigsaw can be done with another tool but better.
Great point on the versatility! The woodworking community often seems divided on the jigsaw.
@@MasonWoodshopI have a barrel style jigsaw. I find it to be much easier and precise - do to the proximity of control. I use it enough to warrant having it.
@@michaelhamerin3814 My corded barrel-grip Bosch jigsaw was pretty solid. I picked up this DeWalt for the cordless freedom, but right before they launched their barrel-grip version. Poor timing!
@@MasonWoodshop Yep, Bosch kinda set the standard. There new cordless is nice.
I like my jigsaw
Got a similar rotarty tool that i still use on the two lowest speeds because i have a gut feeling something bad will happen based on the sound the machine makes.
I recently purchased the malwakee M12 right angle grinder that is also probably my favorite tool because it's a 12v monster with both manual speed adjustment and variable speed paddle trigger. Each speed setting sounds like it's the same musical note but in a different octave.
I got sanding accessories from Amazon that didn't fit it. I used the cheap rotary to modify the adopers to make it compatible instead of buying adapters more expensive than the cheap rotary. The modifications are not on any cutting or grinding accessories because that would be needless dangerous.
I actually had a bad experience with OG dremel rotary tools than with the knock off ones. The best one I've got so far is a black and decker one. I originally started buying them for sculpting, but they have prove to come in handy for tool manteinance
I also have a Dremel 4000 and a Black & Decker RTX. The B&D is definitely superior.
@@christianbound4972 dremel's flimsy built in power switch and speed regulator is just awful.
You must have gotten a bad Kreg multi-mark and should have returned it for another. I love mine and have been using it daily for the past 7 or 8 years. I use it mainly for repeatable dimensions, especially when I do metalworking.
I've been using it for some home improvement projects the past few months and have found it helpful for reveals and other depth-related items. It has it's use in those cases, but it's not necessarily as versatile as Kreg pitches.
Kreg multi mark is an amazing tool and worth every penny. A great addition to my tools. And I agree. Mine is completely square.
Those General slide/angle rule is good for tile work.
I agree with most of your comments on these tools. I will disagree on the Jig saw, one of the most used tools by interior finish guy's. I have installed many kitchens and baths and the jig saw is one I always have on hand. pipes, metal or plastic, sink cutouts, ceramic tiles, dry wall and the list can go on. In the shop I have both a Bandsaw and Scroll saw which are mainly used shape cutting. If you learn how to properly use your tools, the jig saw is a great tool. I am glad to see that you have come around on the jig saw, but I still felt complied to make that statement for the benefit of others. I did enjoy your video, well done sounded great.
That sinking feeling when you see, right on the bench, the EXACT same crappy plastic measuring thing that you bought a couple months ago... it's like a teacher holding up a test with red pen all over it, and you know it's yours...
Hahaha! Glad I'm not the only one making these purchases. Luckily, it's been a while since I made one as bad as that one.
@@MasonWoodshop Me too... you are SPOT ON many: the lousy Kreg plastic (but I will have to say that most of their many accesories stink, like the "Rip Cut" that relies on the worst softest and cheapest plastic parts!, the horrible General P.O.S. angle "finder" with a lot of slop in it, the terrible electric paint guns (ALL of them, even Wagner!), the lousy block planes, and to round it up, the poor quality Dremel accesories (even from Dremel!). Too bad I had not discovered your channel before!!!
My husband bought me a Dremal which I have used for a number of things. Stripping furniture with hard to reach areas. Taking the edge of a tile so I could replace an outlet in the bathroom with one that shuts off when wet. The new one would not fit.
He also bought the accessory kit to go with it. What I have discovered is that some things I have used so much I have had to replace them several times. Some I have never used at all. But until you own one you have no idea what parts are useful.
Thanks for sharing! I think there is something to be said for the name brand tool and accessories, especially with regards to Dremel!
Footprint USED to be pretty good, one of the numerous Sheffield companies. I have a set of chisels from them, Made in England and identical except for color (red vs blue) to the Marples Blue Chips of the early '90s.
I've gone down the cheap plane rabbit hole twice. One was such a piece of junk I couldn't even think of selling to put someone else through that misery, the other I turned into a passable scrub plane. My first decent plane was a 'vintage' Stanley that I used my Dremmel rotary tool to clean up. Taught me a lot about quality tools. Don't know why you think Woodriver is cheap. Both of mine are good well crafted tools.
Awesome to hear you refurbished a vintage Stanley - it’s something I’d love to do at some point. I’m going to give the Woodriver another go as I know they are built well, I just couldn’t get it set quite to my liking. Some more time tinkering and I’m sure it’ll be much better.
It all depends on the projects you wish to do...
I use my rotatory tool all the time because I also do scroll-saw work and it is good for sanding some of the fine fret work... I don't have a Dremel but a cheaper knock off "Fuller" brand... has lasted over 10 years... Though I wouldn't use one as a router...??? thats a new one???
Angle thingy-me-bobs... never seen heard of nor would I buy or need... a simple sliding bevel gauge including the Kreg Jig.
The band clamp... is a mess?... it is not that hard to wind it up after use and put a rubber band on it... come on...
Marking Gauge that's they style I learnt to use at school and works well ... they are easy to use and even make your own. Are they as nice as more expensive... no... but what tool ever is?
I will totally dis-agree with the Jigsaw, but like any tool learn how to use it properly, get some finer blades can be a very very useful tool in the shop... A beginner may not have a bandsaw either room, or budget... and a jigsaw is probably the next best thing and it has an advantage over the bandsaw that it can cut inside circles etc. The jigsaw is not for straight cuts use a circular saw for that, they are more for curves.
If you are getting chatter on your board then you are not holding the jigsaw plate right down on the board... or you may have the wrong type of blade in (ie; a reverse blade and DeWalt do make them or to rough a blade for what you are cutting) or you haven't secured the board properly where you are cutting it.
I use mine regularly... however again depends what you are making.
If you are having trouble with your piece vibrating too much, I believe that's what clamps are for. I use mine all the time to make rough cuts and sand down the rest to where I need it. If you are having trouble with tear out use tape to minimize/eliminate the problem like most projects.
Thanks for the videos ! Especially the Essential Tools vids and the router vids . Im from Germany , 22 and my name is Daniel and im disabled. Im glued to a wheelchair but right now im trying to create my own garage woodworking shop . I just found your channel and subscribed .
Glad you enjoyed the videos and thank you for subscribing! Woodworking is a fantastic and accessible hobby, so I hope you're having fun getting started.
Daniel, you can do it! A member of a forum where I participate has an older gentleman that is in a motorized wheel chair. He just built, with help, a big wood and metal working shop with everything planned for chair height use. Best of wishes!
Amazing how expensive of a lesson cheap tools can be. I love that jigsaw. I also use my Milwaukee M12 rotary tool a *ton*. Not so much in woodworking unless I'm doing some fine carving things (prefer rotary tools to knives).
Let me know what your most regretful woodworking tool purchases have been in the comments below! Something that didn't quite make the list for me was buying exotic woods (purpleheart, bloodwood, padauk among a few others) when I first started woodworking - they were difficult to work with, naturally oily which made finishing difficult, and had an awful stench when machining.
It was a K-mart special,.. Table saw... Complete with a sheet-metal "assembly required" table for it... I HATE that damn thing...
I finally ended up building a new table on a dolly for it, put some accessories in there, and fitted it out with a sled jig so my brother would take it... He's pretty sure his boss will crow madly over it, once he's done rebuilding a ramp for his house...
I have a circular saw... a makita... I can do about everything I need with that.
A table saw might be a fine thing... in it's place. It's just that it's place isn't with me. I don't hate Tablesaws as a rule... just THAT particular one has seemed hell bent to piss me off since I got it... and it's done more for firewood than construction... SO lil' bro' can have it. I wish him AND his boss all the best with it. ;o)
I love the smell of machining padauk, reminds me of curry
As far as powertools go its a Ryobi table saw.
I have nothing against Ryobi in general, their drills/drivers (specially the latest generation) are pretty good. But even as far as job site saws go this one was just not great. Took out their crappy blade and put in a Diablo blade and it got better but the stuff that bugged me had nothing to do with the blade. The miter gauge wobbles a lot, the fence has this little marker so you can use the ruler on the table but the marker is held on by a single screw and the window is larger than the piece of plastic they use for the marker so it can be off. Not a problem for quick breakdown cuts but absolutely not for final cuts. Finally the bevel doesn't lock very well so you have to square it up constantly. Fortunately I didn't spend much on it.
Hand Tools you have cheap chisels from Amazon. I bought them early on thinking a chisel is a chisel how can you screw it up? Then spent a year without touching a chisel they were so bad. It wasn't until I was working with a friend on a project and I used his Two Cherries chisels that I found they can actually be a joy to work with. They may cost 5x what the set I bought, but worth every penny.
@@yunofun Just my experience, but if one is going to get a table-saw for a personal shop, I'd hazard that it's simply more prudent to go ahead and get one of the big old, obscenely heavy ones... cast iron top... proper adjustment hardware in the right places, and check it out before the buy, because for us on a budget, then "used" is the obvious way to go...
It sucks to stick to a hand-held circular saw and folding saw-benches from 2x4's with those $5 bracket sets out of the slowest big-box store in history, BUT the little imperfections can be worked around for the time being, and when the "big boy saw" comes along equitably, you'll have the experience and instincts developed to appreciate it and keep it up for years or even decades to come...
I've come to reckon that I simply don't have the space or place to justify such a thing, myself... BUT decent used saws in the "big and heavy" variety can still be found at equitable prices. I recently helped a friend refurbish one and install it into his basement/garage shop corner for a total investment (parts and labor and all) of about $200 (US)... EASILY a justifiable price for a piece of equipment he's going to profit from over decades to come.
AND chisels??? From poor steel to failure to temper the things, there's only a few dozen ways to screw up making a decent chisel... BUT finding a good one, even scaly-rusted and chipped is like stumbling onto a solid gold bar if you're unafraid to invest a little elbow grease and time (and as long as there's still enough metal left to bother)...
In case you're interested, I usually draw the line on a "$5-gambler" at about 3 inches of "likely useful" blade left... I'll pick up shorter, but certainly not for "full price" as it were... Haggling comes with the territory, and while there are popular brands that are almost a guarantee, there are lesser known names that are certainly worth the risk... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 I agree, go all out on the saw IF you have the room for it. Like you I simply don't have the space for a large cabinet saw (I would love one though).
This is why every benchtop tool I have is on carts, put them all in a row along the wall and when I need them just pull them out and put them where I have room (or even outside if it is a nice day).
The cart for my table saw I even built in extensions that fold up/down to give me more support when needed.
And while most of what you can do with a table saw can be done with a circular saw I still havent found a comfortable way to rip slammer width boards with it and have a straight edge. I have a few jigs that I have made/bought to do it but operation is sometimes awkward and that is never a good thing to mix with power tools.
I've got that same moisture meter and it works fine for getting a relative reading. For woodworking you don't really need it to be precise to within a percent or two, just to know that you're in the ballpark to be able to work with it.
In the video it's all over the place because you're probably on the drywall setting. You need to click it over to softwood for that bench. Also not sure why you need the manual to use it - it's super straightforward. Turn it on, select either hardwood or softwood, and stick it on the material. Won't give the most accurate reading but enough to tell you when it's settled enough to start using.
So, the main takeaway is "Do not buy cheap tools"... Been there. Done my fair share of buying a cheap tool and then having to go out and buy the expensive, professional original. It's never worth buying the cheap stuff...
Precisely! I'm happy to have learned my lesson early on.
Now if I can only get my wife to understand. The idea of spending money to get decent quality tool appears to be a totally incomprehensible concept.
I was so surprised by how bad the Kreg gauge was! Thankfully I dodged those other dogs, but Kreg got me with that one. Scott
I fundamentally disagree with the kreg tool. Its a great apron tool and every tool is inaccurate until you use it properly. The rest of these tools are cheap versions of good tools. The waste of money is choosing to buy such cheap versions. Respectfully.
I’m coming around on the Multi-mark as a helpful tool, especially with the depth use case. The majority of the rest are definitely a function of low-price = low quality.
Totally agree. Its all about horses for courses. The tools a guy needs to build a house do not require the same degree of accuracy as those used by fine furniture makers eg you would never see a woodworker using a speed square to cut material for oak dressing table. The Kreg measuring tool is a carpenters tool, not a woodworkers tool.
Kreg multi mark is worth every penny
Hey Mason, The longer I am doing woodworking I find that I need fewer tools. I'm mostly a hand tool woodworker now and enjoying it more. My projects the last two years were hand tools only and I admit it has been more fun although a bit slower. My customers seem more appreciative that they have something made entirely by hand. I do use electric lights part of the time though and when it's hot I turn on the electric fan. Is that cheating?
Haha, certainly not cheating! I could definitely see myself going the hand tool-only route for a period of time.
as far as I can tell this guy doesn't know very much and most of what he knows he learned from TH-cam video's
Agree
I bought a $15 Lowes hand plane and spent countless hours getting the bottom flat. In the end, i'm happy i bought it and fixed it up and it will get me by until I know more precisely what nice one i need to buy.
The one purchase that I instantly returned was the Kreg Accucut, or whatever it is called. I had to make modifications for it to fit my circular saw and it was not precise at all. The wider the cut, the worse it got. Thank goodness for Woodcraft's generous return policy. Junk!
I bought a Dremel several years ago. It turned out to be useless for the job I bought it for, and subsequently useless for every job I've though "the Dremel would be good for that!" too. Total waste of money.
Ha, that's essentially my experience! I've mostly chocked it up to the knock-off Dremel that I bought, but it might just be that a small rotary tool wasn't the tight tool for the job.
The one use case I come up with albeit infrequently for the rotory tool usually involves the cutting wheel and having the cut metal in a very tight spot. In those cases, no other tool would have worked, so they do have a place.
Dremels are incredibly useful. Just not so much so for cabinetmakers and carpenters. I don't use one frequently, but when I do, it's often the only tool that will do the trick.
I recently got that same Dewalt Jigsaw. It is great for cutting out holes amd notches for flooring amd carpentry work. I love it. Especially with the Diablo blades
I’ve come around to love the jigsaw! The right blade and right speed setting made a huge difference.
Like Clone said " the Dewalt is actually really good" I noticed that your setting was not straight up and down and actually the rotary setup. Also you did not have the anti chip plate installed. I have the Bosch cored version and now use the Dewalt which cuts better with the correct blade installed. sorry to rain on your parade.
Great notes on the jigsaw - I'm going to revisit it for some of the rough-cutting I do with charcuterie boards that don't fit on the band saw. My Bosch barrel-grip jigsaw (before going cordless) worked pretty well, so I think I just need to tune up the DeWalt and get used to the features.
The jig saw was my most helpful tool for cutting curves prior to getting my bandsaw. everything else you are pretty spot on. I bought the Wen rotary tool but it was nothing compared to the Dremel I got for Christmas from my parents, it seemed like a good deal for 30$, but the power and consistency wasn't there. my neighbor has a plug in Spray gun like that as well. It was not pleasant trying it out to paint my work table. I got it done, but I would always suggest a better quality one on Amazon.
Every time I think about getting a cheap tool, I end up deciding I'm better off with no tool. That has kept me from just buying a bunch of tools I might need. If I want a certain tool, I look at the best of the best, and then compare downward. I find that easier than starting off cheap and trying to compare upward. When comparing upward, price is the main focus over feature/quality gain. You think more about money than what you want to accomplish. When comparing downward, loss of features/quality is the focus over cost savings. You think more about what you want to do, and what the end result will be. Instead of thinking is it worth $50 more to get that feature, you're thinking is is worth loosing that feature to save $50. I don't always buy the most expensive tool, but I usually feel like I got the tool that will do what I need it to. There have been exceptions. I've come to dislike a lot of Amazon. They're turning into a flea market.
Awesome thoughts there, thanks for sharing Chip! I really like your approach to buying tools. I'm currently planning a "here are the tools to get started woodworking" and I'm realizing how many tools/accessories that I have that while they are useful for me, they are also unnecessary when it comes to the results.
While Amazon can sometimes have deals on well-known name-brand tools, what they promote as "tools", "DIY", and "home improvement" products is absolutely brutal. Lots of lighting strips and cheap knock-off tools. Sad part is that it's not just with tools.
I agree. Took some years but I came around to the "what is 2 or 3 notches down from the best?" way of thinking. I rarely buy the king of the hill, but I save a lot of money and still get a lot of good capability by going for a high qualifying runner-up.
Agree re: Dremel , woodplaner and the saw . Disagree totally with the jigsaw . It's got so many uses . With a scroll blade you can cut quite delicate curves , or change blades and rip decking boards . 2nd tool I ever bought after my drill .
I've really come around on the jig saw and it's become a frequently-used tool in my shop! Just took the right blade and right setting to get it perfect.
The multi mark is a great tool doing door trim reveals and worth purchasing for a finish carpenter to diy'er I am a handyman and use it all the time.
Ooooooh - I really like that idea of using it for door reveals, great tip! I've been getting some good use cases for the multi-mark in the comments that make a lot of sense.
Correct. That indent around the whole body is for setting door casing. My multi-mark typically stays close to my aluminum brake for marking repeatable bends. I rarely take it out to a job.
Get a trim gauge. It keeps the reveal and also is adjustable for measurements and marks including a spirit level to keep architrave plumb to the jamb
How do you cut curves if you don't like using a jigsaw and particularly internal curves
I’m generally working with cabinetry projects these days, but when I do have inside curves I’ve often been defaulting to my cordless trim router, which has been doing a great job when I have appropriate templates on hand. I’m planning on playing around with the jigsaw now and making sure I’m using it properly.
@@MasonWoodshop I don't use mine often, but I'm glad to have it when I need it - or just when it's the quickest way to do a particular cut. First few times I used one I oversteered, tried to cut too fast, pushed sideways on the blade, etc. I got better.
There's an Afrikaans saying: Goedkoop koop is duur koop... Directly translated it says: buying cheap is bying expensive. It seems to be a common theme in this video.
That's a very accurate saying! It's not easy to offload cheap tools on the used market, either.
Unfortunately it might sometimes be true, specifically when talking about something that is extremely cheap, but since quality of products is not inherently related to the price charged there is no general rule that cheaper is necessarily worse than more expensive.
Dutch saying tho
@@teunipalm5790 well I'm Afrikaans not Dutch, so that is my frame of reference. It's a daughter language, so I would assume there are similar sayings in both.
I am sorry, that you have not found the use for the kreg multimarker. It really is a very good tool. I actually use it very much. The level is precise, and in my case, the angels are on spot. Maybe, because it was made for the European Market. I don't know if that makes the difference or not...
I’ve come around on it for a few things like reveals and measuring depths of grooves. Not nearly as bad as when I made this video, but still too much wobble to use it as a square.
With respect I'm gonna go against the populous here and say you've bought the issues upon yourself repeatedly buying cheap!
However I agree about the jigsaw- vile piece of machinery! I hate them.
For the record I saw video in my feed recently suggesting that a Lie Nielsen No4 didn't cut straight from the box.
Haha, I fully agree with you on me bringing on these issues myself by buying cheap! They were tools/accessories that were on my list and rather than save up for good quality versions, I went cheap to buy them earlier. Bad idea, haha!
@@MasonWoodshop don't get me wrong, I've only been woodworking a year or so, but starting out if I bought cheap I bought uses, rather than unbranded as a rule. I've had my share of shockers but I've started relisting them to other unsuspecting fools as I've learned better 🤣🤣🤣
I’m a bit late, I see your pinned comment but something that would have gave this video more value would have been to recommend a replacement for the jigsaw. Just some advice moving forward.
That’s a great point! For me, the bandsaw generally covered all of my shop needs with a coping saw generally used for more detailed work. I’m really liking the jigsaw now, though!!
I felt the entire video I wanted to break and smash all the tools you showed here. The wife calls in the Adrian test, I have broken many many shitty things in IKEA for example.
But have it as a rule, if you can accidentally break items while in the store, it's the store trying to steal your money.
I feel your pain on having spent money on this ;)
Also, i have that exakt same shitty scribe. Haha
Hahahaha, your comment just made my morning! Half of them I wouldn’t have bought if I was able to touch them in store. Good thing is that I’ve learned my lesson.
lie nielsen handtools are the best tools to own for woodworking....i love all my lie nielsen tools....durable, ready to go out of the box, precisely machined, excellent workmanship in each tool and made in the usa...powertools are great for rough cutting dimensions, but hand tools are a must have in order to create a flawless finish....
An old saying we get what we pay for, yes saving money is a good idea, but when buying tools we got to invest in something good
Absolutely! I’m glad I learned my lesson early on and with tools that were generally very inexpensive.
I also want to say that stay away from any Harbor Freight "woodworking" tools that are used for any cutting, marking or measuring. The only thing I but from Harbor Freight are 1/8" drill birds for my counter sink drill bit, some of the clamps and the casters. And, any of the one time use items like acid brushes, small quite brushes and wire wheels for your drill. I did buy the 2-n-1 18g air stapler and bread nailer, the Diablo air hose and the purple gravity paint sprayer, those are worth it for getting started but will definitely upgrade in the near future
Ah yes, the wonderful world of Harbor Freight (rough equivalent here in Canada is Princess Auto). When visiting the USA, I've hit up Harbor Freight a few times and those coupons make some of the larger ticket items temping, but I've generally stuck to some of the cheap squeeze clamps and casters like you.
I would probably buy a door stop from Harbor Freight.
I've had great experiences with dewalt tools. Everything else there looks like low quality harbor freight garbage and it just goes to show you that it's true when you get the quality you pay for.
How dare you sir.