U're truly second my assignment on the topic. Thnx. There's a bizarre movement advocating stuff w/o any whatsoever understanding of optics, fixed aperture wide angle lens camera behavior.
For me an accessory I use in specific cases. Mainly for long exposure photos. Even the expensive ones can reduce quality or mess with your drone's auto focus system. I ended up few times with blurry shots using them. Also, (wave of film conservatives' hate incoming) we should remember that everyone's obsession with the buzzword "cinematic" is a stylistic choice not a must. To be fair I've seen some drone footage in Hollywood productions where in my opinion was too much motion blur. Yes, we see it naturally, but maybe if you are doing a crazy unnatural shots with flips and spining gimbal, "natural" is not always the right choice?
Yes, it really depends on what you're recording. If it's beach from 70 meters, ND filters are useless or even contra productive. If it's i.e. follow mode recording someone on the bike, motorcycle, car, and other fast moving objects, ND filters can be necessary.
The point of the 180 shutter speed is to give consistent motion from shot to shot. Whether mixing with traditonal footage on the ground, or cutting together multiple drone orbits you will notice the shutter speed changes when sequenced.
I nearly always use a ND 16 or 32 from Freewell. Set all to auto and use exposure lock in the direction I fly. I set the color profile to D-log M and edit the output with a suitable Lut. This way I get great results in my opionion. With ND 16 and 32 I am covered in most lightning situations. In very sunny situations I use a ND 64. This is my personal opinion. Greetings from a new subscriber 🇳🇱
Great study. I also did a study. I tried the DJI mini 4K with the same scene at 8 am, noon and 4 pm. Then I took still photos with no filter, ND 8, 16, 32 and 64. Judging by the exposure meter which makes zebra lines for over exposure, here are my results: At 8 am the ND 16 showed the deep blue sky the way my eyes saw it. At noon, the ND 64 looked the best. And at 4 pm golden glow sun, the ND 32 looked the best. I don't do photography on cloudy days. And I use the blue of the sky as my guide to the best exposure. I agree that a sharp video looks better than a blurred one. I will have to try higher shutter speeds. Thanks Jonathan...
Where are my friend, I have a DJI mini 4 Pro and I'm using June star filter. And that CPL filter is the bomb to me because my pictures come out crystal clear I mean I'm totally amazed and impressed by how clear everything looks. I have no complaints
My experience is that when filming something with parallax, then a slower shutter speed (ie.use ND filter) gives nice motion blur in stead of choppiness.
Thanks for a very thoughtful, comprehensive video. I only wish you did the side-by-side without using the most extreme filter. I lower number would provide a more fair comparison.
I do think that's also a good exception to the rule; anytime you are filming reflective surfaces (ex. car commercial) an ND/PL combo can be beneficial.
I prefer to use a stronger nd filter and let auto iso control the exposure That may result in lower quality details but I find overall video looks better
I don't like overly-sharp footage such as in the 1/6000 shutter speed clip. It gives off that cheap home video look as if it was taken with a cellphone camera that set the shutter speed on auto, or applied with too much sharpening. I want my footage to look cinematic, like in a movie. The reason why the footage with ND filters look fuzzy is because of the tiny amount of motion blur happening in the frame -- that's exactly what it's meant to do. This fuzziness is part of what gives footage that 'movie' look. I'd rather stick to the 180-degree rule and have that natural motion blur fuzziness than a cheap-looking footage with overly-crisp frames.
Thanks for sharing your perspective! I typically try and stick to the 180 degree rule as well but with drones it can be a bit challenging. It would be awesome if DJI would come out with a drone that includes a built-in variable ND-filter, sort of like how Sony did with the FX6. You could set it to 'auto' mode and let the drone adjust the intensity of the filter based on your aperture and shutter speed.
We use a K&F Concepts variable ND filter on our mini 3 pro. Not only does this give good motion blur when filming things like waterfalls, but it helps reduce some bad reflections (since a variable ND filter is basically two polarizing filters). Using the variable filter allows us to 'dial it in' before taking off without having to fiddle around with changing filters.
Just got a mini 3 last week. I did a test flight, did not like the sharpness level. Just ordered ND filters, definitely gonna run some tests you've showed. Cheers bro... New Sub.
Great video! thank you for creating and sharing it. I personally don't use filters, I control the exposure and the edit the rest into the videos. I agree with everything you said 😉
Hi Jonathan. I get all the math and that's great. I also liked and subscribed. I own an Air 3S and a Neo. I live lakefront thus I'm more interested in PL filters. I'm not new to still photography but I am new to video photography. I get the shutter speed and having to live with a fixed f-stop. What I would like to learn is choosing the right frame rate. I'll probably google that but a simple answer here would benefit a lot of people.
That could work too, especially in bright conditions. My concern is the sensor could introduce unwanted noise because of the boosted ISO, BUT that sounds like a great idea to test out in a future video. Thanks again for the suggestion!
Pretty sure your 1st beach clip with the ND filter was just out of focus. Happens fairly often for me, gotta tap the subject to be safe when using AF. The filters definitely make the focus act up a bit though. As I shoot mostly cars, I have to use NDPL filters. But I'm often not that happy with the colors on the Neweer or whatever cheap filters.
@@rcouchh Thanks for sharing. I definitely thought about it being out of focus as well. I’ll do some additional testing to confirm though. Thanks for contributing to the conversation!
I started laughing, same as said by others you were out of focus! I fly all thetime for 10 years and still make the mistake of just tapping to focus, you have great info and watching your video now..
That is what i though initially as well, but it could also be that the nd filter is dirty or bad quality. Extra glass will reduce the quality no matter the quality.
Firstly, glad you picked Australia to visit and the Gold Coast is perfect for aerial photography. But on the date you released this video and your reference of recently visiting, it was mid Winter I'm guessing (still stunning weather) but that is also when the light is on the most shallowest angle upon the Australian continent. During this time, I would use a much lower Filter if at all (but most cases I do use filters) During the harsh summer months, the light can be 10x as bright and flying during the same time of day would require a much higher filter number to compensate that extreme light. Because you elected to use a ND 128 during low angle light regardless it was midday, you effectively gave motion blur to fast moving objects like the ocean waves. In your sampled video, you had both Ocean waves and Buildings, the buildings looked better with the ND128 then without, because the buildings are moving if the drone is flying towards them and you cut down on the sharpness blur that solid objects can produce without a filter. In summary, Filters work best based on the overall strength of the light, the subject and the type of video you wish to make. Appreciate your video for the honesty based on you own knowledge.. look forward to the next one..
Thanks for watching mate! ha! Wow, great insight, thanks for sharing. I'm not an expert but love to just try things out and share what I'm learning. The great thing about TH-cam is we can all learn from each other and get better at our craft.
I'm a photographer and learning video. In your example, have you considered putting on the darker ND filter, setting frame rate to 24fps, shutter speed to 1/50, and auto ISO? Would the quality still be acceptable if the ISO went up to 400, 800, or 1000? Also, I'm wondering if the image quality in the beach example was reduced because of the optical clarity of the ND filter and nothing to do with the shutter speed. Great video, thank you.
Hey thanks for watching and thanks for the ideas! Interesting points you bring up - what happens if we just increase the ISO? That sounds like a good idea for a future video to test out that theory.
higher ISO is basically just making the sensor amped up so it is more sensitive to light - but doing this makes it noisier/grainier. whether or not that is acceptable is up to you. you will probably find that several ISO settings are good, but there will be a limit that you do not like and you won't find usable.
ok you saing that if you high in the air no need to use NDs, but what if want to do closer waves shot, or something else, you will land it < take on nd and get back to the location????
Put it in 'auto' then just hold the ND infront of the lens and watch the shutter speed change bottom right of screen once you've set your frame rate. Once you have the correct filter you'll see the shutter speed you want. That way you can offer up a few filters in a few seconds until you see the shutter speed you want. (twice your frame rate) Then, switch it to manual knowing you have the correct filter, and set your shutter speed manually. Thats the best way to get the perfect ND filter, and without math. OH, and never settler for the high shutter speeds you get without filters even if you think it looks better without it. From near or far if you want the best results, use a filter to get the correct shutter speeds. Sharp images are not always the best images, we dont see in such high detail as cameras can capture so when we do it can often look 'wrong' without us knowing why. Cheap ND filters will loose image quality also.
I think when there is no perfect match for ND (eg. 40) it's better to choose stronger one (64) and set ISO to auto. There will be less work in post and difference in quality between ISO 100 and 200 is not much visible as blownout highlights.
Thanks for sharing. It would be worth comparing a weaker ND vs a stronger ND and seeing which one produced the best quality. I know higher ISO values can introduce noise into the footage, but I agree that you won't notice it in 100 vs 200 ISO.
I think you're completely missing the point of why filmmakers use ND filters. Unless you have the need to maintain consistent shutter speeds/aperture on your footage you are probably right but they have their place.
What do I think? Great Job! Great Video! I liked and subscribed. Question: My plans are to purchase a DJI mini 3. That said I take pause because I just heard that soon DJI will be banned. Is that true? If so what are a few alternatives in your opinion. Thanks
Thanks for watching. The ban on DJI is still up in the air. The bill was passed in the House but not in the Senate. However, according to the DJI IG account, the fight is not over yet. Sorry, I don't know of any good alternatives right now because DJI pretty much owns the market.
The 180° is not relevant at all anymore even for non drone videography but for some reason, all TH-camr creators seem to think it is this amazing camera feature missing from certain mirrorless bodies. It’s utterly irrelivant.
Thanks for sharing. Maybe that's a video I'll make in the future talking about the value of the 180 degree rule and showing what happens when you slow down the footage.
Of course there won't be any relevant difference between a faster shutter and a slower shutter + ND when you're filming an almost static landscape from high altitude. And of course it's not going to be "choppy"; the fastest thing is only going to be moving at a few pixels per second. The only reason to use a filter in that situation is if a) your camera shutter can't go any faster and it's still overexposed, b) you want a polariser to cut down on reflections or c) you want a UV filter to cut down on haze. And yes, that filter does seem to be blurring your image. But that's not because it's an ND filter, it's just because it's a _bad_ ND filter. With drone cameras being so small, the quality of the filters is even more critical than on SLR cameras, and even on those you can see a clear difference in quality between different filters. For example, consumer-grade Tiffen filters tend to be pretty bad compared to Hama filters (although Tiffen makes some really good high-end / professional filters).
Good point. I think I need to record a second video showing what happens when you slow it down as opposed to watching it in real time. Thx for the input.
Agree completely. When the sun is bright no amount of messing with pro settings without an ND filter will shield the glare of the sun. Neither will a fixed value in pro settings compensate for a drone spinning 360⁰ through different lightness/darkness. The science may say I'm wrong but a 64 ND filter in bright sunshine in auto after tweaking the EV value works great.
Good point! Some ND filters are better than others and a low quality filter can introduce color shifting, noise, vignetting, etc. Maybe I'll try the experiment again with different filters and see if the results are better.
@@JonathanRichey As a professional aerial cinematographer the ND is an integral part of getting a beautiful image. Those that are interested in the depths of the ND's power should watch the many videos on YT that exist on the topic. That being said, the title of this video is very click-baity and only "right" in a very specific situation: When you're using a tiny sensor drone while shooting super wide scenes with little to no motion of any sort. Do we need a tutorial video to explain this? This is akin to saying to making a video called "Why I stopped shooting manual." Sure, there might be a tiny instance where there is a use case but nobody needs a tutorial video for throwing it in auto. I know very well that making videos takes lots of time and generally the intension of teaching others comes from a good place... that being said IMHO you should focus your energy on giving people information that can help them learn and move forward with their hobby and careers.
@@randyscottslavinI think similar. I am user dji mini 3 and as a amator see difference betwen use ND or not. When I use ND video looks more cinematic. When I d'not use looks like from smartphone.
Yeah, I'll add another con... Recently I made a newbie mistake, for my channel I'm usually filming in a hurry and on the run... Started shooting during the day ended the shoot at night... Forgot to change the ND64. 🤦 The mini4pro has Great low light so, I saw it was a bit dark but thought it was cause of the place had very bad lighting. 😂
Are you seriously suggesting that we should be Einstein before we can even fly the drone?!? Just leave it on auto and let the drone do the work. Really trying to improve on the algorithms you paid for when buying the drone? No! Too much blah blah blah in this video.
oh man you just flying across the sun and set up nd 32 , really? you just doing everything wrong. And that people even teach something the other ones, oh gosh. man you no need to do any youtube. videos
What do you think? Are ND filters a necessity or a nice-to-have accessory?
U're truly second my assignment on the topic. Thnx. There's a bizarre movement advocating stuff w/o any whatsoever understanding of optics, fixed aperture wide angle lens camera behavior.
For me an accessory I use in specific cases. Mainly for long exposure photos. Even the expensive ones can reduce quality or mess with your drone's auto focus system. I ended up few times with blurry shots using them.
Also, (wave of film conservatives' hate incoming) we should remember that everyone's obsession with the buzzword "cinematic" is a stylistic choice not a must. To be fair I've seen some drone footage in Hollywood productions where in my opinion was too much motion blur. Yes, we see it naturally, but maybe if you are doing a crazy unnatural shots with flips and spining gimbal, "natural" is not always the right choice?
Yes, it really depends on what you're recording. If it's beach from 70 meters, ND filters are useless or even contra productive. If it's i.e. follow mode recording someone on the bike, motorcycle, car, and other fast moving objects, ND filters can be necessary.
The point of the 180 shutter speed is to give consistent motion from shot to shot. Whether mixing with traditonal footage on the ground, or cutting together multiple drone orbits you will notice the shutter speed changes when sequenced.
Yep, great point. That's kind of what I was getting at with the exceptions but you explained it much better than I did..ha. Thanks for sharing!
I nearly always use a ND 16 or 32 from Freewell. Set all to auto and use exposure lock in the direction I fly. I set the color profile to D-log M and edit the output with a suitable Lut. This way I get great results in my opionion. With ND 16 and 32 I am covered in most lightning situations. In very sunny situations I use a ND 64. This is my personal opinion. Greetings from a new subscriber 🇳🇱
Great study. I also did a study. I tried the DJI mini 4K with the same scene at 8 am, noon and 4 pm. Then I took still photos with no filter, ND 8, 16, 32 and 64. Judging by the exposure meter which makes zebra lines for over exposure, here are my results: At 8 am the ND 16 showed the deep blue sky the way my eyes saw it. At noon, the ND 64 looked the best. And at 4 pm golden glow sun, the ND 32 looked the best. I don't do photography on cloudy days. And I use the blue of the sky as my guide to the best exposure. I agree that a sharp video looks better than a blurred one. I will have to try higher shutter speeds. Thanks Jonathan...
Wow, thanks for sharing your results with us!
Where are my friend, I have a DJI mini 4 Pro and I'm using June star filter. And that CPL filter is the bomb to me because my pictures come out crystal clear I mean I'm totally amazed and impressed by how clear everything looks. I have no complaints
My experience is that when filming something with parallax, then a slower shutter speed (ie.use ND filter) gives nice motion blur in stead of choppiness.
That's a good point; thanks for sharing. A zoom lens + ND filter could be a good combo for creating a sweet parallax effect.
Thanks for a very thoughtful, comprehensive video. I only wish you did the side-by-side without using the most extreme filter. I lower number would provide a more fair comparison.
I use ND/PL Filters the most. This has the benefits of the ND and also helps with reflections especially with water
I do think that's also a good exception to the rule; anytime you are filming reflective surfaces (ex. car commercial) an ND/PL combo can be beneficial.
I prefer to use a stronger nd filter and let auto iso control the exposure
That may result in lower quality details but I find overall video looks better
Thx for the tip! I may need to give that a try.
Agreed! I only use those when I am flying FPV because I am always really close to the ground and fast
Thx for watching!
I don't like overly-sharp footage such as in the 1/6000 shutter speed clip. It gives off that cheap home video look as if it was taken with a cellphone camera that set the shutter speed on auto, or applied with too much sharpening. I want my footage to look cinematic, like in a movie. The reason why the footage with ND filters look fuzzy is because of the tiny amount of motion blur happening in the frame -- that's exactly what it's meant to do. This fuzziness is part of what gives footage that 'movie' look. I'd rather stick to the 180-degree rule and have that natural motion blur fuzziness than a cheap-looking footage with overly-crisp frames.
Thanks for sharing your perspective! I typically try and stick to the 180 degree rule as well but with drones it can be a bit challenging. It would be awesome if DJI would come out with a drone that includes a built-in variable ND-filter, sort of like how Sony did with the FX6. You could set it to 'auto' mode and let the drone adjust the intensity of the filter based on your aperture and shutter speed.
We use a K&F Concepts variable ND filter on our mini 3 pro. Not only does this give good motion blur when filming things like waterfalls, but it helps reduce some bad reflections (since a variable ND filter is basically two polarizing filters). Using the variable filter allows us to 'dial it in' before taking off without having to fiddle around with changing filters.
Interesting, I didn't know anyone made variable ND's for drones! Thanks for sharing.
Just got a mini 3 last week. I did a test flight, did not like the sharpness level. Just ordered ND filters, definitely gonna run some tests you've showed. Cheers bro... New Sub.
Awesome! The mini 3 is a great drone. Have fun!
Great video! thank you for creating and sharing it. I personally don't use filters, I control the exposure and the edit the rest into the videos. I agree with everything you said 😉
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant video, tried to make this point for years
Very good explanation of ND filters.
I was exactly at same place last month flying drone in Gold coast.
Sweet! We were probably there at the same time...ha!
Awesome stuff! I've never understood the ND Number system on the drone ND filters. This makes sense now and I can stop guessing!
Yes sir! Glad you found the video helpful.
Hi Jonathan. I get all the math and that's great. I also liked and subscribed. I own an Air 3S and a Neo. I live lakefront thus I'm more interested in PL filters.
I'm not new to still photography but I am new to video photography. I get the shutter speed and having to live with a fixed f-stop. What I would like to learn is choosing the right frame rate. I'll probably google that but a simple answer here would benefit a lot of people.
How about going on the high side with the ND filter and setting the ISO to auto?
Thanks for the video.
That could work too, especially in bright conditions. My concern is the sensor could introduce unwanted noise because of the boosted ISO, BUT that sounds like a great idea to test out in a future video. Thanks again for the suggestion!
Pretty sure your 1st beach clip with the ND filter was just out of focus. Happens fairly often for me, gotta tap the subject to be safe when using AF. The filters definitely make the focus act up a bit though.
As I shoot mostly cars, I have to use NDPL filters. But I'm often not that happy with the colors on the Neweer or whatever cheap filters.
@@rcouchh Thanks for sharing. I definitely thought about it being out of focus as well. I’ll do some additional testing to confirm though. Thanks for contributing to the conversation!
I started laughing, same as said by others you were out of focus! I fly all thetime for 10 years and still make the mistake of just tapping to focus, you have great info and watching your video now..
Total click bait, but great video.
That is what i though initially as well, but it could also be that the nd filter is dirty or bad quality. Extra glass will reduce the quality no matter the quality.
Firstly, glad you picked Australia to visit and the Gold Coast is perfect for aerial photography. But on the date you released this video and your reference of recently visiting, it was mid Winter I'm guessing (still stunning weather) but that is also when the light is on the most shallowest angle upon the Australian continent. During this time, I would use a much lower Filter if at all (but most cases I do use filters) During the harsh summer months, the light can be 10x as bright and flying during the same time of day would require a much higher filter number to compensate that extreme light. Because you elected to use a ND 128 during low angle light regardless it was midday, you effectively gave motion blur to fast moving objects like the ocean waves. In your sampled video, you had both Ocean waves and Buildings, the buildings looked better with the ND128 then without, because the buildings are moving if the drone is flying towards them and you cut down on the sharpness blur that solid objects can produce without a filter. In summary, Filters work best based on the overall strength of the light, the subject and the type of video you wish to make. Appreciate your video for the honesty based on you own knowledge.. look forward to the next one..
Thanks for watching mate! ha! Wow, great insight, thanks for sharing. I'm not an expert but love to just try things out and share what I'm learning. The great thing about TH-cam is we can all learn from each other and get better at our craft.
I'm a photographer and learning video. In your example, have you considered putting on the darker ND filter, setting frame rate to 24fps, shutter speed to 1/50, and auto ISO? Would the quality still be acceptable if the ISO went up to 400, 800, or 1000? Also, I'm wondering if the image quality in the beach example was reduced because of the optical clarity of the ND filter and nothing to do with the shutter speed. Great video, thank you.
Hey thanks for watching and thanks for the ideas! Interesting points you bring up - what happens if we just increase the ISO? That sounds like a good idea for a future video to test out that theory.
higher ISO is basically just making the sensor amped up so it is more sensitive to light - but doing this makes it noisier/grainier. whether or not that is acceptable is up to you. you will probably find that several ISO settings are good, but there will be a limit that you do not like and you won't find usable.
@@moonpost good point! thanks for joining the conversation. it's all a learning process as we try and get the best possible footage from the camera.
ok you saing that if you high in the air no need to use NDs, but what if want to do closer waves shot, or something else, you will land it < take on nd and get back to the location????
Put it in 'auto' then just hold the ND infront of the lens and watch the shutter speed change bottom right of screen once you've set your frame rate.
Once you have the correct filter you'll see the shutter speed you want.
That way you can offer up a few filters in a few seconds until you see the shutter speed you want. (twice your frame rate)
Then, switch it to manual knowing you have the correct filter, and set your shutter speed manually.
Thats the best way to get the perfect ND filter, and without math.
OH, and never settler for the high shutter speeds you get without filters even if you think it looks better without it. From near or far if you want the best results, use a filter to get the correct shutter speeds. Sharp images are not always the best images, we dont see in such high detail as cameras can capture so when we do it can often look 'wrong' without us knowing why. Cheap ND filters will loose image quality also.
I have never used ND filters with my Air 2S. Auto works well enough for me.
I think when there is no perfect match for ND (eg. 40) it's better to choose stronger one (64) and set ISO to auto. There will be less work in post and difference in quality between ISO 100 and 200 is not much visible as blownout highlights.
Thanks for sharing. It would be worth comparing a weaker ND vs a stronger ND and seeing which one produced the best quality. I know higher ISO values can introduce noise into the footage, but I agree that you won't notice it in 100 vs 200 ISO.
Using a 128, really. Drop to 4 or 8 to get a bit darker and have a higher shutter speed.
Real nice!🎉Thank You
You're welcome!
I think you're completely missing the point of why filmmakers use ND filters. Unless you have the need to maintain consistent shutter speeds/aperture on your footage you are probably right but they have their place.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm not claiming to be an expert; this channel is a place for me to share my experience and what I'm learning.
What do I think? Great Job! Great Video! I liked and subscribed. Question: My plans are to purchase a DJI mini 3. That said I take pause because I just heard that soon DJI will be banned. Is that true? If so what are a few alternatives in your opinion. Thanks
Thanks for watching. The ban on DJI is still up in the air. The bill was passed in the House but not in the Senate. However, according to the DJI IG account, the fight is not over yet. Sorry, I don't know of any good alternatives right now because DJI pretty much owns the market.
Was the protective coating taken off?
Yes it was. Thanks for watching.
The 180° is not relevant at all anymore even for non drone videography but for some reason, all TH-camr creators seem to think it is this amazing camera feature missing from certain mirrorless bodies. It’s utterly irrelivant.
If you are not wanting to show down the footage it’s fine. When you slow it down the choppiness is well visible
Thanks for sharing. Maybe that's a video I'll make in the future talking about the value of the 180 degree rule and showing what happens when you slow down the footage.
Thank you and from now on I will carry my cheap little calculator right in my drone bag!! 😊👍👍
Or just use the one on your smart phone? ha!
Of course there won't be any relevant difference between a faster shutter and a slower shutter + ND when you're filming an almost static landscape from high altitude. And of course it's not going to be "choppy"; the fastest thing is only going to be moving at a few pixels per second. The only reason to use a filter in that situation is if a) your camera shutter can't go any faster and it's still overexposed, b) you want a polariser to cut down on reflections or c) you want a UV filter to cut down on haze.
And yes, that filter does seem to be blurring your image. But that's not because it's an ND filter, it's just because it's a _bad_ ND filter. With drone cameras being so small, the quality of the filters is even more critical than on SLR cameras, and even on those you can see a clear difference in quality between different filters. For example, consumer-grade Tiffen filters tend to be pretty bad compared to Hama filters (although Tiffen makes some really good high-end / professional filters).
I actually just recently came to the same conclusion... nice video
That was either a smudge on lens or filter. Or a bad version of the nd filter.
I don't why I'm surprised, but I'm actually surprised by the sheer variety of ignorance there is in these comments.
I left this video when the math class started😂
Ha...thanks for watching!
If you want to slow it down. It’s when you have the issue.
Good point. I think I need to record a second video showing what happens when you slow it down as opposed to watching it in real time. Thx for the input.
you 'll see the chuppiness if watch it on tv, why even trying to see it on a small screen?
I can see it in the waves without, Maybe us 64 or 32 to make the waves better.
Thanks for watching!
Simply use nd filter and switch to auto😊
Exactly..also acts as a dust shield
I realized this is best. The software is so good she’ll steadily adjust
Same 😅
Same 👍
Agree completely. When the sun is bright no amount of messing with pro settings without an ND filter will shield the glare of the sun. Neither will a fixed value in pro settings compensate for a drone spinning 360⁰ through different lightness/darkness. The science may say I'm wrong but a 64 ND filter in bright sunshine in auto after tweaking the EV value works great.
ND filters quality also needs consideration...
Good point! Some ND filters are better than others and a low quality filter can introduce color shifting, noise, vignetting, etc. Maybe I'll try the experiment again with different filters and see if the results are better.
Bad advice
Thanks for joining the conversation. Can you expand on what you mean by that?
@@JonathanRichey As a professional aerial cinematographer the ND is an integral part of getting a beautiful image. Those that are interested in the depths of the ND's power should watch the many videos on YT that exist on the topic. That being said, the title of this video is very click-baity and only "right" in a very specific situation: When you're using a tiny sensor drone while shooting super wide scenes with little to no motion of any sort. Do we need a tutorial video to explain this? This is akin to saying to making a video called "Why I stopped shooting manual." Sure, there might be a tiny instance where there is a use case but nobody needs a tutorial video for throwing it in auto. I know very well that making videos takes lots of time and generally the intension of teaching others comes from a good place... that being said IMHO you should focus your energy on giving people information that can help them learn and move forward with their hobby and careers.
@@randyscottslavinI think similar. I am user dji mini 3 and as a amator see difference betwen use ND or not. When I use ND video looks more cinematic. When I d'not use looks like from smartphone.
take a look at hte buildings with no nD , it;s shaky, crispy, just wath it on your tv, you'll see that no way to film without nds
Yeah, I'll add another con... Recently I made a newbie mistake, for my channel I'm usually filming in a hurry and on the run... Started shooting during the day ended the shoot at night... Forgot to change the ND64. 🤦
The mini4pro has Great low light so, I saw it was a bit dark but thought it was cause of the place had very bad lighting. 😂
Whoops! Been there done that!
I believe you are using digital boom therefore you will lose detail especially at x 4 so not a true comparison
No
Neewer ND filters are crap. Try again with quality ND filters.
Thanks for sharing, I just might do that!
its your eyes....
Maybe...I haven't been to the eye doctor in awhile so maybe it's time for a checkup! LOL
Are you seriously suggesting that we should be Einstein before we can even fly the drone?!? Just leave it on auto and let the drone do the work. Really trying to improve on the algorithms you paid for when buying the drone? No! Too much blah blah blah in this video.
hope youtube will never erecommend me your videos, you better learn first
oh man you just flying across the sun and set up nd 32 , really? you just doing everything wrong. And that people even teach something the other ones, oh gosh. man you no need to do any youtube. videos
just weird opinion