It doesn't really matter as long as the bed is accurate. Some of the European professional systems use big 50mm square-section aluminium which are, IMHO, too chunky and mean you can't create a 30mm bed. They also leave a biggish channel to be filled, but they are very robust and ideal for use on commercial projects, especially permeable paving which uses a deeper laying course. For smaller jobs, patios, driveways and DIY, I reckon the 20mm diameter round section steel tube is ideal.
I've seen builders mix cement and sand and spread it all over the flat bed of sharp sand, put the slabs down, then wet the slabs for a few minutes. What do you reckon? Is it a good idea?
No: every part of it is wrong and it's a recipe for disaster. Placing a mortar over a layer of unbound sand is just asking for it to crack and fail. Cowboy methodoloy!
Jeez, in Australia, only the ladies or the infirm use screed rails. Initial site sand prep, get your brick height off the carport level, screed, then compact the whole job (two run compaction for driveways) , then final finishing screed. Then throw down the pavers. Cut it in. Sand in and compact. Cement the edges then bugger off and do it all again the next day. All done by one guy on the screed bar using his highly honed skill at knowing the levels by sight and feel, checking the bar occasional with a spirit level. And one labourer bringing in or removing sand for the bar.
+ampatau Perhaps we have higher standards in this part of the world. Your methodology would see you thrown off any reputable jobs in Britain or Ireland.
Nice job .iam about to do my drive I have concrete the edge stones in and about to lay sand does the sand need to be above the base of the concrete blocks to allow for when it is compacted with wacker plate so all blocks sit at as height
You should NEVER add cement to the laying course for flexible block paving. Although it sounds illogical, that would actually make the pavement worse than it is. This is because you would in effect have a 'rigid' (and relatively fragile) layer sandwiched in between two unbound (and intended to move ever so silghtly) layers: the sub-base and the blocks themselves. Over time, the cement-bound laying course would crack under the load, but becaus eit is bound/rigid, it has no chance to recover - it can only ever get worse. The correct fix is to have a sound and reliable sub-base. When the sub-base is properly and corectly constructed, you should get very minimal or no settlement whatsoever. My own driveweay has been happily taking builders' vans, trucks and cars for 24 years and there's not noticeable settlement at all. We *do* a use sand/cement bed beneath flagstones, but this is a different form of paving and the sand/cement is prepared in a different manner, as a wet/moist mortar, rather than a dry-ish mix of sand and cement. There's a lot more about this, including how to correct low spots on a block paved driveway, on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/refurb_04.htm
There is an optimum moisture content to achieve maximum compaction with the coarse sand used for the laying course. We look for 8-13%, which is damp-ish. Generally speaking, if the sand clumps together when you squeeze a handful, but no water runs out, that's about right. More about this on the website.....www.pavingexpert.com/screeding.htm
@@alexsj5790 u can learn hard landscaping at horticultural colleges...that where I learnt.ur better just working for a landscaping company 4 a few yrs + learn on the job
Primarily because whin dust is not avaulable in the part of the country where this video was filmed. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that, just because you have access to such-and-such an aggregate or material in your bit of the land, everyone else can get it too. Just not the case. Further, you have to be careful with whin dust, as not all that is supplied would meet the requirements for a suitable laying course material. some of it has far too much fines and is therefore liable to cause problems with the paving in the medium-long term.
Tony McCormack for one a don’t believe yee can’t get whin dust at quarry near you or even delivered and a don’t know where yee get the idea whin dust would not be suitable I worked with guys whom have done this game for years and if they say whin dust is 100% acceptable then they know what there talking about yee seem to not accept anyone question yee or yer methods it was simple question so it was
Yes but we truly needed to see how to setup the screeding rails?? Not everyone who is not a professional landscaper will have this KIT let alone the knowledge to know how to use it. How about showing us amatures how to level and setup up the screeding rails or how we might be able to use conduit piping as a substitute not being fully kitted out landscapers.
....all of which is comprehensively documented on the website, if you'd care to follow the provided links. When I'm able to get up and about again, a fuller screeding video is on my "To Do" list.
you right tony about the screeding.........I don't care how good your eye is, your not gonna screed a say 100m2 drive way by eye, and get it right.....screed bars are the only way.....also you know its perfect if done right.........nice job btw.......from another irish expert.lol
Mr L , i'm not working right now ,I was making a lot of money in Florida by doing that, but right now I'm living in Brazil and there's not really much business over here and I'm moving to Canada with a job offer ,where are you guys located at?
That's a good team my crew it takes hours to get the base done we used to just do it all with a 4 foot level now switched to tubes and aluminum 7foot screed. Also why everybody I see on TH-cam use sand? I'm from GTA we use gravel then hpb(finer gravel) then go over it with compactor like 50 times
you all should be using screening, it compacts much better than sand. Sand is like a much finer version of three quarter clean, would you use three quarter clean as a base? No. So why use sand, when you have screening. I understand if screening didnt exist use sand, its the closest thing. But we have screening, that compacts like a son of a bitch, use it.
+Michael Seay We use a very specific sand because that's what it says in the British Standard. It compacts absolutely as required, when laid correctly. "Screening" is not a recognised term in Britain or Ireland. It doesn't tell us what we need to know to ensure full compliance with the standard.
I'm a landscaper in Canada. As the local standards, I mostly use screening. But I've used both sand and screening and it does the same job and handles over time as good. Sand is finer so you can lay it down less thicker so you can install pavement on an uneven existing concrete, without raising the level too much. The downside of the sand is that ants will go trough easily and will make it their home. Also, both are the same price.
Good music costs money. If I spend money on the background music, I have to recover it from somewhere, and that means placing ads which interrupt the video. Which do you prefer: poxy music or irritating, irrelevant ads?
I love seeing Tony’s work!
Where do you get your screed rails? We use electrical conduit but it bends far too easy
It doesn't really matter as long as the bed is accurate. Some of the European professional systems use big 50mm square-section aluminium which are, IMHO, too chunky and mean you can't create a 30mm bed. They also leave a biggish channel to be filled, but they are very robust and ideal for use on commercial projects, especially permeable paving which uses a deeper laying course. For smaller jobs, patios, driveways and DIY, I reckon the 20mm diameter round section steel tube is ideal.
How do you remove and fill the screeding bar in the middle? I have a 4mx4m one to do, was going to do it in 2 sections
See the web-page: www.pavingexpert.com/screeding#final-titivating
@@TonyMcCormack Very interesting thanks, more to it than I thought
Weeds don't grow through poroperly constructed block pavements. They may grow into the joints, but not out of them.
Tony McCormack it's nice good job. Better future for the Generations.
This is rediculous what is the point of this video everyone’s gone crazy
Unless it's a cut and the gap is almost nonexistent and sand doesn't get in there I suppose?
I've seen builders mix cement and sand and spread it all over the flat bed of sharp sand, put the slabs down, then wet the slabs for a few minutes. What do you reckon? Is it a good idea?
No: every part of it is wrong and it's a recipe for disaster. Placing a mortar over a layer of unbound sand is just asking for it to crack and fail. Cowboy methodoloy!
Is there a setting out video for fall in driveway?
Not a video, but a fully illustrated guide to how falls are calculated and established - www.pavingexpert.com/setout02
Hi nice job
after you lay the sand do you have to wakerplate the sand
Thanks
The full process is explained in great detail on the linked webpage
Jeez, in Australia, only the ladies or the infirm use screed rails. Initial site sand prep, get your brick height off the carport level, screed, then compact the whole job (two run compaction for driveways) , then final finishing screed. Then throw down the pavers. Cut it in. Sand in and compact. Cement the edges then bugger off and do it all again the next day.
All done by one guy on the screed bar using his highly honed skill at knowing the levels by sight and feel, checking the bar occasional with a spirit level. And one labourer bringing in or removing sand for the bar.
+ampatau Perhaps we have higher standards in this part of the world. Your methodology would see you thrown off any reputable jobs in Britain or Ireland.
Yeah, your right. Two Aussies doing the work of or four or five Brits in half the time wouldn't go down too well on site I suppose.
And one of us Irish to oversee it all!
+ampatau so you have your sheilas laying paving over there????
+ampatau bullshit mate, I'm an australian brickpaver with 20+ yrs in the trade and I can tell you I definitely use rails to do a decent job...
yep - it's pavingexpert then a dot followed by a com. Can't post links in these comments but I'll add it to the video description
just bought your book Tony. good stuff mate.
Nice job .iam about to do my drive I have concrete the edge stones in and about to lay sand does the sand need to be above the base of the concrete blocks to allow for when it is compacted with wacker plate so all blocks sit at as height
You can see the process fully explained in the FAQ on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/screed_faq01.htm
thanks have you got a website?
nice job the screed rails are better to use flat rails or round rails?
Can cement be added to the sand for strength.
My van creates 2 ruts up the drive.
You should NEVER add cement to the laying course for flexible block paving. Although it sounds illogical, that would actually make the pavement worse than it is. This is because you would in effect have a 'rigid' (and relatively fragile) layer sandwiched in between two unbound (and intended to move ever so silghtly) layers: the sub-base and the blocks themselves. Over time, the cement-bound laying course would crack under the load, but becaus eit is bound/rigid, it has no chance to recover - it can only ever get worse.
The correct fix is to have a sound and reliable sub-base. When the sub-base is properly and corectly constructed, you should get very minimal or no settlement whatsoever. My own driveweay has been happily taking builders' vans, trucks and cars for 24 years and there's not noticeable settlement at all.
We *do* a use sand/cement bed beneath flagstones, but this is a different form of paving and the sand/cement is prepared in a different manner, as a wet/moist mortar, rather than a dry-ish mix of sand and cement.
There's a lot more about this, including how to correct low spots on a block paved driveway, on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/refurb_04.htm
Tony McCormack
Thanks for the quick reply.
Total understand what you mean.
Cheers
That only creates hard spots.lift and relay only answer. Compact well.
Oh my god. great info.. Why do nearly ALL you tubers put music on instructional videos? eventually you just get fed up.
Should the sand be damp?
There is an optimum moisture content to achieve maximum compaction with the coarse sand used for the laying course. We look for 8-13%, which is damp-ish. Generally speaking, if the sand clumps together when you squeeze a handful, but no water runs out, that's about right. More about this on the website.....www.pavingexpert.com/screeding.htm
Is that so the weeds wont come out through the gaps of the pavers?
Weeds don't always grow through the slabs it's because seeds land on top then they grow through the slightest gap or crack.
What about the middle rail inbetween the rows, how do you remove that one and fill it in without walking in it all
That's explained on the website - www.pavingexpert.com/screeding.htm
How can we control it from growing weeding
+Ayodele Ayodele12 What? The finished pavement? Treat it with a good quality weedkiller
+Ayodele Ayodele12 you cant control where weeds are gunna grow man.
Polymeric sand (for the joints) does a pretty good job for this and keeping the ants away. More efficient when exposed to the sun.
Бедные, такие мучения. Все делали правильно, но такое ощущение, что это тяжкий труд.
That's what I thought. Peace out.
@@anthonykilgannon3443 What are you talking about?
Is there schools to learn this skill there’s a lot of money in this I want a part of it 😍
Shut up geek
Michael Sargent stfu bitch my dads a contractor and I’m a marijuana farmer
@@alexsj5790 u can learn hard landscaping at horticultural colleges...that where I learnt.ur better just working for a landscaping company 4 a few yrs + learn on the job
buenas construcciones
pisos concreto
el ranchero
Why not use a whin dust instead of a sand whin dust is solid when compact
Primarily because whin dust is not avaulable in the part of the country where this video was filmed. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that, just because you have access to such-and-such an aggregate or material in your bit of the land, everyone else can get it too. Just not the case.
Further, you have to be careful with whin dust, as not all that is supplied would meet the requirements for a suitable laying course material. some of it has far too much fines and is therefore liable to cause problems with the paving in the medium-long term.
Tony McCormack for one a don’t believe yee can’t get whin dust at quarry near you or even delivered and a don’t know where yee get the idea whin dust would not be suitable I worked with guys whom have done this game for years and if they say whin dust is 100% acceptable then they know what there talking about yee seem to not accept anyone question yee or yer methods it was simple question so it was
Well, you can choose to belive what you like. You obviously know far more about it all, so I'll leave you to carry on as you wish.
Yes but we truly needed to see how to setup the screeding rails?? Not everyone who is not a professional landscaper will have this KIT let alone the knowledge to know how to use it. How about showing us amatures how to level and setup up the screeding rails or how we might be able to use conduit piping as a substitute not being fully kitted out landscapers.
....all of which is comprehensively documented on the website, if you'd care to follow the provided links. When I'm able to get up and about again, a fuller screeding video is on my "To Do" list.
Beautiful video. Lovely job, and wouldn't mind being part of the team.
Are you a free mason? Is this why you use the word optative so frequently???
kustom eyez No, I'm a streetmason, and operative isa perfectly normal term for a worker.
Your paving Meredith is good. and ease to paving.
not screeding its like built a house with no level🐐
Ottimo bravi. Spiegazione eccellente. Grazie
You "titivate" me, ya mad bastard!
you right tony about the screeding.........I don't care how good your eye is, your not gonna screed a say 100m2 drive way by eye, and get it right.....screed bars are the only way.....also you know its perfect if done right.........nice job btw.......from another irish expert.lol
+miichael smyth Yea you wont screed it right if your not good. But that separates the professionals from the amateurs. Using bars is a girly way.
+Michael Seay well call me Shirley...lol
I can screed a 100m2 drive quicker and more accurately freehand than virtually everyone who uses rails!
Dam all that screed’n coulda had a nice concrete stamp job done
Nice work.
Awesome video and I love this business, are you looking for a good sales representative?
Mr L , i'm not working right now ,I was making a lot of money in Florida by doing that, but right now I'm living in Brazil and there's not really much business over here and I'm moving to Canada with a job offer ,where are you guys located at?
Beautiful video 👍
I doing thise work
좋아요 하나 더.
nice job lads.
buen trabajo
construccion
#1
very good.
buenos
videos construccion
Nice
That's a good team my crew it takes hours to get the base done we used to just do it all with a 4 foot level now switched to tubes and aluminum 7foot screed.
Also why everybody I see on TH-cam use sand? I'm from GTA we use gravel then hpb(finer gravel) then go over it with compactor like 50 times
Вася it's sharp sand it has a fine grit in it, very course.
Forgot that word, titivate! :-)
hi 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🔔🔔🔔🔔🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
I love it
thanks good man
Молодцы
Good
al your absolutely adorable lol
you all should be using screening, it compacts much better than sand. Sand is like a much finer version of three quarter clean, would you use three quarter clean as a base? No. So why use sand, when you have screening. I understand if screening didnt exist use sand, its the closest thing. But we have screening, that compacts like a son of a bitch, use it.
+Michael Seay We use a very specific sand because that's what it says in the British Standard. It compacts absolutely as required, when laid correctly.
"Screening" is not a recognised term in Britain or Ireland. It doesn't tell us what we need to know to ensure full compliance with the standard.
Michael. its not screening its screeding & its to lock in place the pavers when its compacted🖒
I'm a landscaper in Canada. As the local standards, I mostly use screening. But I've used both sand and screening and it does the same job and handles over time as good. Sand is finer so you can lay it down less thicker so you can install pavement on an uneven existing concrete, without raising the level too much. The downside of the sand is that ants will go trough easily and will make it their home. Also, both are the same price.
Michael Seay
Pembuatan paven
g blok
I m jasvir singh punjab india
🇮🇩❤💋💋❤🇮🇩
nice video . poxy music tho
Good music costs money. If I spend money on the background music, I have to recover it from somewhere, and that means placing ads which interrupt the video. Which do you prefer: poxy music or irritating, irrelevant ads?
Agree, on both counts.
Dam dar 👌
Gil
da hora
entr.lockr.kag
Good