As you were reviewing them, I found myself thinking "I wish he would print something on all of them so I can SEE the difference." Then you read my mind and did it. Great review and presentation!
I've never left a comment or subscribed to channel on TH-cam in over a decade using it. But you sir did an amazing job and deserve the credit. Blew me away with how much information you packed into a short video, while being super funny. Great job man.
Great Video! Clear spoken, informative, funny and to the point! I've been thinking of getting a 3D printer, and your video is the first one I watch! So pleased! CR-10 sounds Perfect! Thank you for this! :)
@@owenwalters1 We love all our creality machines.. Built a 150k per year business with them at the forefront.. Along with Prusa, Artillery, Sovol and Ultimaker.
please make an update video on the Tevo tarantula. I bought it in March and it's put together but I'm not getting great prints. I've looked in the Facebook page and it's good but I would prefer if you would make a video on your favourite upgrades for the Tarantula and what settings you have for marlin. Love your videos keep up the good work!
I have the tarantula and it prints just great. My upgrade part list: 1. Fanduct 2. improved z-axis mount 3. x- and y-belt tensioner 4. olham coupler The Marlin firmware I took from the facebook group. Now my prints look amazing!
hey Callum Jackson, try to post your question/concern into the facebook group, thats how i recently fixed my printer. Someone reached out to me in less than 1 hour and helped me for the past 2 days and now my printer is fixed. I also had a very unique issue as well, the people that help are very familiar with printer.
Hi, I have an anet a8 and what i love is that it can do everything maybe not perfectly but for almost nothing, also you can tune everything. Nice video by the way, from France :D
An amazing presentation with a wide range of printers with important detail and carefully thought out opinions. I’m going for the Creality CR-10 Pro as I trust your judgement. Thanks for sharing this 👍🙏
Yes, i just got the ender 3 as my 4th 3d printer for by business and its great highly recommended, a fun build better then all my previous full kits that took hours and had crappy instructions
pretty much this. at one point I was about to go full hulk on my anet a8 and turn it into fine powder because I was stuck at one problem for a week (z motor stuck mid print at the exact same height every time) and when I finally solved it (wrong max z setting in the firmware) it felt like a climax
I thought it was quit informative and my questions is why do people just unlike vidoes that they have not even checked ? Its silly I tell you. This guys did well.
Amazing how the CR-10, even though this was a year ago, is still the 3D printer I use the most in my videos. It's $370 right now which is kinda cool: goo.gl/QvERnf
I want to thank you so much for making this awesome video comparison of all your 3D printers. You obviously have a passion for design and engineering so I subbed and look forward to learning more about 3d printing and additive manufacturing.
Your videos are the gold standard for information and production quality! Finally able to get relevant information without a lot of nonsense. Well done!
I sincerely enjoyed the fast pace of this video. You could've easily made a 20-30 minute video on this topic, but you kept it to the point and factual. Well done 👍🏻
"Best 3D printer from my perspective is the one majority of my viewers can benefit from" - thank you for this. Many ppl review fancy expensive stuff without realizing that most ppl can't afford them.
I had a beta Tiko for years. It was a unicorn as it worked great, and everyone else seemed to have issues with theirs and many claim to have never got a clean print from theirs. I still have some of the prints from it and a bit of the blue Tiko filament I wouldn't dare try running through a printer as it's so brittle. The extruder finally died on it, and it was a sad day. Back when I use to fund 3d printer Kickstarters. Never did receive many of them.
I have an Anet A8 printer right now and just ordered a CR-10. I am extremely excited to see so many people love the CR-10. Even after a few years the CR-10 is still one of the best options after the years. Love your videos, keep on creating! :)
I want all of them. For now I have a Tronxy X3 and XYZ Davinci Jr both ultra modified. Thanks for the reply! Also I'm in the UK and anyone else who is should go vote tomorrow!
Upgraded to a Cr-10s after having worked with a ANET A6 for about 8 months. Its an amazing step in quality! Although starting out with an ANET I’ll never regret! Best chance to learn how a printer works from top to bottom.
The Tarantula printed backwards and you didn't mention it. You didn't list the times for each printer - should have tested again after the filament mess up and the size mess up ect. Also if you slow any printer down you tend to get better prints - so The delta finishing before the CR-10 and the CR-10 having better results are meaningless what happens when you slow the delta down to match the print time of the CR-10? This comparison only told us that: Mankati e180 for5 ease of use Anet A8 is a first printer for true 'makers' willing to design print upgrades - at the best price Tarantula will print the opposite of what ever you wanted in the first place The Rework should have been made larger The TevoDelta will save you time and thus money and will pay for itself before all the other The CR-10 is a good printer (but may be very slow, who knows? we don't!) I have an Anet A8 - I will always be fond of it - it was my first time :) I want to build a Delta - I may actually upgrade the A8 to a delta IF I were rich I would buy a Mankati e180 - if for nothing more than ABS ! 5/10 for the collection review (-3 out of envy, -2 for cocking up the test) +10 for the electrocution effects :)
Am I the only one that wanted the resolution of each printer? Are they all the same? Do most viewers already know the resolutions for each one? (Resolution might not be the right word for 3d printers but you know what I mean. Smallest addressable point.)
Thanks, Jason. Do you think that means they are all the same? Or that he set them all the same for the test? Price, size, speed and quality are the things I'd like to know. (And anyone else that watched thinking of purchasing.) Highest resolution would be part of quality.
Setup was super easy. Both myself and my son were able to print directly from our phones within minutes. Printing is a little slow but acceptable. Nice printer for light usage.
I have been printing with the CR 10 for a week now, and this printer is mind blowing. Considering its price/performance this must be the best printer to buy in the world. I got it for 3600 SEK(423 USD). 300 microns look like 200 microns, and 200 look like 100 microns, and as is mentioned in the video the layers are laid down perfectly and in all axis. I don't understand why people feel the need to mod this machine, like messing with the fan duct or extruder when you can print one small object at 100 microns, at slow speed and still get no warping due to the extruder being close. Overhangs are also printed extremely well. If this machine cost one, two or up to three times more than it does, it would still make sense to buy it. If you are wondering if this machine is only good for large print like i was wondering before i bought it, wonder no more, it can handle both very very well. I started with UncleJesses Simplify3D settings, they worked well but i have tweaked them quite a bit, but only small tweaks in numbers. One needs to tweak these settings depending on filament and not just the machine. I am guessing this printer can handle 50 microns as well, i am just about to test it. for print speed i have it set to 60mm/s Anything negative well yes some: 1# My Z coupler was stretched out and basically destroyed, someone had printed with the machine as there was black filament in the nozzle. I was devastated over this since it took 25 days for the printer to arrive (gearbest/hongkong). I was anxious to print and did not want to mess with support and them sending me a new z coupler. I was ready to order a new coupler from Sweden and get it by mail in 1-2 days, but what i did was to compress the coupler with large whatever they are called pliers, and refit the coupler and i was super lucky as i get no z wobble whatsoever. I have read that many people get this stretched out z coupler, it boggles my mind how they can send the machine with this error, i also know why this can happen to the coupler and they should too. 2# I have not heard anyone complain about this and i have seen people printing objects 400mm tall that are perfect but, when small jittery features are being printed at the bottom, the top vibrates, BUT, i have got my printer standing at a large square piece of packing foam that was protecting the printer in its box. This could be the reason why i have extra vibrations, in fact it is very likely. One can do a mod for increased stability, also i think when small motions are made when the extruder are way up in the frame at the top of the object, the vibration will be much less or not exist since it is not happening at the base. 3# PSU noise, the power supply fan is crazy loud. The printer itself is not bad, but the PSU i will have to fix, there are solutions to this, they should have included a heat controller for this fan. I will have to take one from my old Prusa i3 that is really silent. 4# The controller knob for the display does not register clicks too well on my machine, could be a little better. With all that said, #1 and #2 could be a non issue for most people. My summary is that i wanted quality and print size this time and i got it. This printer is so good that i wonder how it compare to a MakerBot Z18 or similar that cost 8000 - 10 000 USD.
i have had my cr-10s for 4 years and have never had a malfunction. My college users Ultimaker and I have replaced the hotend 4 times within the last year. Each costing 250$. Cr-10 is hands-down the most reliable printer on the market and is the most upgradable.
I bought my first 3D printer, and it is a Ender 5 pro. I have to say that it was easy to assemble, but the first time I turned it on, the feed cable buckled and broke the stop sensor, so I am waiting on some new sensor I ordered. This brings me to the poor way they did not cover the sensors from damage, considering how cheap the sensors are, they should have made covers for them. Based on your review, I may take a closer look at the CR10.
heads up the tarantula is cheaper than the anet a8 for me atleast living in europe (sweden) cause gearbest take around 60$ for shipping while the tarantula has free shiping i saved around 30$
i dont know ur tax rates in denmark but i had to pay 550 sek in import tax living in sweden. I would not order from gearbest however as they are really unreliable but from aliexpress i got it cheaper and with free express shiping. Really happy with the printer but took a while to get it running well
The tarantula company support sucks. I received a DOA motherboard from them. Took me 2 months of going back and forth with them before they would send me a replacement.
@@andrewdickenson6935 Yes, i just got the ender 3 as my 4th 3d printer for by business and its great highly recommended, a fun build better then all my previous full kits that took hours and had crappy instructions
hi i have a geetech i3 it took me year to make it work i've faced all kind of problems with the extruder, drivers, software... but it finally works maybe i can help you with yours
Thingiverse is full with updates for the Anet A8, I also have one and it prints great! I only did one upgrade yet and that was a vibration demper to reduce the sound noise. Next update will be adding a mosfet, because the Anet isn't the safest 3d printer on the internet...
That's right, thingiverse is full of upgrades for the Anet A8. For the vibrations, by just simply adding a chunk of withe foam below the machine (I've holded down my printer to a table using 3D printed brackets) it reduces the noise a lot and also improves the print quality because there are less vibrations. I recommend to use the "Spriya" fanduct, is much better than the popular semicircular one.
I also use the spriya fan duct and it has greatly improved the printer as a whole. I recommend printing a filament guide and spool holder though to reduce strain on the extruder. The y belt tensioner is a must also.
mikel9292 - the Chinese cloners have missed the boat.....had some bright spark brought out a clone of the A8 ..with all the upgrades included and added a bit of quality control ....Joe Prusa would have a serious contender. The A8 set up reasonably well and taking care with the bed level, produces some class prints.
I would rank it #2, just behind the Ultimaker. Ultimaker is awesome, but stupidly overpriced. Ender 3, specially the Pro comes pretty damn close quality-wise once you tune it well!
Thank you so very much for all your effort in reviewing these 3D printers , I'm now sold on the Creality CR-10 so I'll be buying the unit that is capable of 500x500x500 .
Thank you for your effort. Finally come comparable tests. I was wondering if I should get the Trinus 3D, because of it's great precision, but it seems that the CR10 is on par, but wiht much more space. A little critics I got: I think if you had chosen a less intense color (grey?), we could see layers and printing quality better.
I just built the i3 MK3 and it blows the doors off of these printers in terms of quality (components, instructions, features, and print quality). Speed, I'm not sure of because I didn't notice him state the time this took. Also, I think he stated that he printed all of the models with the same settings, but I didn't hear nozzle diameter and layer height. There could have been a difference of quality if he chose very thick layers for speed.
Its junk, we got one a few months ago, the power supply took a crap, then the Ramps took a crap. Absolutely no customer service from prusa despite 4 emails
@@brandon1566 I'm under the impression that their customer service team doesn't have many who can interpret written English well, but I was able to talk with them. My power supply was starting to make a noise at some vibration nodes, so I took it apart to find that this Chinese-made power supply was of poor quality (including a capacitor installed with the leads shorted together). The rest of the printer is pretty darn good, and I've been running it nearly nonstop for about a month and a half now. After describing (in unnecessary detail) the observations and tweaks I had made, they replied with a brief email stating that they were sending me a replacement complete power supply, smooth rods kit, and bearings. My printer is the MK3 though. In this price range, it doesn't seem worth it to skimp.
i current own an cr10s , being printing out of it since 2018, very reliable printer for sure. I recently upgraded my hotend with ed3 v6 and put a new skr mini 1.2 32bit board, oh man the quality improved soo much since now i can enable linear advance.
Can you please do a balco 3D printer review I have one and I want to see what you think. :) P.S I have got great prints out of it but i'am having some trouble with flexible filament, its base model is a pura 3D printer. I am 11
Matthew Hutchinson this is a wanhao rebranded machine. Direct drive, which should do flexible just fine. Make sure to start first layer at a crawl (15mm/s) and the keep the rest of the print under 30mm/s.
Video was informative. I just bought the Anet A8 because it was on sale for $140, but of course it requires upgrades, MOSFET, switch, etc. However I think its a good start. I plan to print my own enclosure to house the power supply and MOFSET. Once I have it running, I will go for the Creality CR-10 after this review!
Can someone please help me: I am trying to get into product development, over the last year I have saved up a bit of money for a PC and a printer... I am stuck between the Tevo Tarantula and Creality, but if I would go for the Creality printer, i would have to cut $200 off my Pc budget, making it a $700 computer. What would you do?
700$ PC should be good enough, especially if you make it yourself, plus, after a year or two, if you need some boost to your PC, you can always upgrade some parts of it that you feel need the most attention. So if you feel like you can build your own PC, definitely go for the Creality printer.
Get a second hand Thinkpad, such as a T430 or a T450. A T430 can be had very cheaply (300ish), and will outperform any laptop in the 700 range. Saves money for a better printer. That's for a laptop though :p
get the creality. Now that AMD's ryzen 5 cpus are on the market (and have had time for all the bugs with the new motherboard platform to be worked out), you can build a fantastic cad machine for $700. I'd say go for a ryzen 5 1600, as you get a six core, 12 thread cpu that performs comparably to the $450 intel 6800k, for around $200. 16gb ram is super worth it for cad, you'll really use up ram fast as you make more complex designs. Also go with fast ram (2666mhz or above) for ryzen as it likes lots of ram speed. finally, get a decently fast budget-oriented gaming gpu such as an nvidia 1050ti or radeon rx 560. Here's a link to a good example build I threw together, but remember pc part pricing fluctuates often so you'll want to tweak it depending on the shape of the market when you purchase: pcpartpicker.com/list/tmHy2R
I have tested a lot of printers at work and prusa is out of the League. All other printers need to much "love" to print as good as the prusa. Even when you go for multimaterial. The mmu2s is still the best choice. The mosaic have some issues you can't fix when you have long printing times... you should try the prusa!
Excellent video. You are very good at this, and I hope to see more. I've been watching reviews randomly for a few days, and yours was the most informative and entertaining....literally leaps and bound above the others.
RAPTOR Sjk that would be a DMLS printer. They’re still very large, use industrial levels of voltage, and very expensive. Some printers make different types of plastics though which are more durable than others.
That would be called SLS printing, which is different from these FDM printers. Most expensive type of printing. What you can do with these FDM printers is create a mold of your print with castable filament, then pouring metal into it to create your metal piece.
I have the Geeetech I3 Pro B, it can do great prints if you get it calibrated perfectly, however it can take hours to adjust the Z axis but once done it never needs calibrating again. You do however need to apply some sort of lubricant to it before each print in order to get a decent print.
Names of the printers stay on screen for amazing 0.5 seconds, which makes you feel like you are challenged every time for speed reading competition. Just kidding. Make them stay longer. #muppetediting
Thanks for this! I'm looking to get my first 3d printer sometime in the future, little to no experience, trying to find out which one is best for me ~the whole 9 yards~ Your review of these gave me a lot of insight on prices vs quality - and honestly I'm surprised to see that some of the cheaper ones still have great quality results. I suppose a better show of comparisons would be then to use different filaments and see how they all stack up with those as well.
Hi, i am doing a Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering. I have taken a Design Elective, and have to write about how 3D printing aids the design process. I am enjoying your videos. Its helping me a lot.
Well done. Clear and neet presentation. I do use 3D printing for parts we can't find anymore in our Montreal Aviation Museum in our aircraft retoration... Using outside services to print - but seriously lookingfor our own... The CR-10 looks cool - and in our tight budget range. ... Will see yet...
Hello, I recommend the new Tevo Tarantula Pro. $200 from Banggood. Uses older stepper motors, though. Easily upgraded for 20-25$ 95% DIY, also room for WiFi, BLT, and Dual Z upgrade
I know I'm late to the party but just wanted to thank you for making this video. It's noticable that you've made some serious effort to make the video right so I think you deserved my subscription to your channel. Cheers
Very, Very informative although I don't have a clue why you have so many "thumbs down". But for someone who is shopping and looking for a printer that will suit not only their budget but proficiency level, I was very impressed with your reviews and side-by-side demonstrations. Excellent work. I'm buying the CR-10.
Not to piss in anyone's pool, but printers are like musical instruments; a skilled operator can make a masterpiece from a shoddy printer whereas an unskilled n00b can't make anything worthwhile no matter how good the printer/slicer/CAD files/filament may be. I know this sounds 'soft', but the best printer is the one that fills your needs today and will not be obsolete before your magnum opus is done printing. Deltas do not have salmon-skin as a natural result of how they print, that particular printer has a salmon-skin issue due to the drivers not being used properly. Micro-stepping can be your friend... Case in point: My Anycubic Kossel linear plus, out of the box [sic], had prominent salmon-skin and very loud/very hot steppers. Replaced the stepper drivers, made a change in firmware, now the cooling fans are the loudest part of any print job, with zero salmon-skin on the model. DIY seems to be a strong theme, too bad you didn't take it a bit farther on your Deltas...
Ah.. 2017. That's about the same time I bought my (only) printer, a Wanhao i3 Plus. I was about to buy the Tarantula but when I visited the shop I saw how the Wanhao only took four screws to assemble - it did cost an extra $75 or so, but it was worth it.
Gotta say I’m pretty happy with my Creality-CR10S 👍 I wish I could get the settings they use from the gcode, for the Creality dog that comes on the flash drive. I had a Printrbot 1405 Simple wood version I had a lot of fun with that is 1/2 DIY. From San Diego, CA, USA
I just ordered the CR10 printer and used your code to save about $130. Thank you. Looking forward to learning, using and possibly making some extra money.
I did had a Geeetech Prusa I3 kit. I assembled and even got it running. But the steel rods were actually some cheap alloy and came warped and bent leading to bad printing results. I even made a custom updated firmware based on Marlin to fix some issues. But ultimately the hardware was very bad quality... I contacted the company in China and they sent me replacement parts but forgot to add a 0$ receipt and so my country customs wanted to charge me more than the printer cost itself. So, yep, same as you, a printer that is good for parts. Seems like the Creality Ender 3D is the good deal to go now.
Very good review. I particularly like the way that you say why you consider a particular printer the best. Please correct me if I'm wrong., but don't the delta printers have the ability to scan a finished object for duplication as well or am I confusing it with something else. I also like the fact that you did a head-to-head run-off with all of the printers side-by-side as well as finish as well as the time it took for each machine. So far I have not seen anyone else do this on the net, so thank you very much. Now all I can do is to look for an additive 3D printer that can give me a metal finished product.
As you were reviewing them, I found myself thinking "I wish he would print something on all of them so I can SEE the difference." Then you read my mind and did it. Great review and presentation!
Don't you think it would be cool if we had the 2020 version of comparing all me printers?
Exactly, in technology 3 years is enormous. Great and fun review though.
i really want this as the ender 3 wasn't included in this video and there are many more printers out now, especially cheaper ones.
Yes
Or 2022?
*Great little **Bestt.Digital** machine! Super looking!!! Easy to use, mom loves it, straightforward!*
I've never left a comment or subscribed to channel on TH-cam in over a decade using it. But you sir did an amazing job and deserve the credit. Blew me away with how much information you packed into a short video, while being super funny. Great job man.
Great Video! Clear spoken, informative, funny and to the point! I've been thinking of getting a 3D printer, and your video is the first one I watch! So pleased! CR-10 sounds Perfect! Thank you for this! :)
@@owenwalters1 We love all our creality machines.. Built a 150k per year business with them at the forefront.. Along with Prusa, Artillery, Sovol and Ultimaker.
please make an update video on the Tevo tarantula. I bought it in March and it's put together but I'm not getting great prints. I've looked in the Facebook page and it's good but I would prefer if you would make a video on your favourite upgrades for the Tarantula and what settings you have for marlin. Love your videos keep up the good work!
Callum Jackson 0
Callum Jackson Η
Callum Jackson yes dude the same thing has been happening to me
I have the tarantula and it prints just great.
My upgrade part list:
1. Fanduct
2. improved z-axis mount
3. x- and y-belt tensioner
4. olham coupler
The Marlin firmware I took from the facebook group.
Now my prints look amazing!
hey Callum Jackson, try to post your question/concern into the facebook group, thats how i recently fixed my printer. Someone reached out to me in less than 1 hour and helped me for the past 2 days and now my printer is fixed. I also had a very unique issue as well, the people that help are very familiar with printer.
Hi, I have an anet a8 and what i love is that it can do everything maybe not perfectly but for almost nothing, also you can tune everything. Nice video by the way, from France :D
Anet A8 is really good 3d printer. Also anyone can afford it!
An amazing presentation with a wide range of printers with important detail and carefully thought out opinions. I’m going for the Creality CR-10 Pro as I trust your judgement. Thanks for sharing this 👍🙏
I *HIGHLY* recommend building a kit. It's such a godsend when it comes to troubleshooting your 3d printer.
100% agree but if you have the budget for it don't shy away from buying a reputable kit like a prusa mini kit or even a mk3
Yes, i just got the ender 3 as my 4th 3d printer for by business and its great highly recommended, a fun build better then all my previous full kits that took hours and had crappy instructions
pretty much this. at one point I was about to go full hulk on my anet a8 and turn it into fine powder because I was stuck at one problem for a week (z motor stuck mid print at the exact same height every time) and when I finally solved it (wrong max z setting in the firmware) it felt like a climax
I thought it was quit informative and my questions is why do people just unlike vidoes that they have not even checked ? Its silly I tell you. This guys did well.
Well his English is as good as yours so I can see why you could relate. But otherwise it was not a good video.
Hey fellow swede! Nice video
I didnt expected you Here :-)
Oh you're here? I'm curious if you 3d print any of your instruments and what your setup looks like. Love the music.
I thought it was spelled sweed my whole life
Amazing how the CR-10, even though this was a year ago, is still the 3D printer I use the most in my videos. It's $370 right now which is kinda cool: goo.gl/QvERnf
RCLifeOn What about the Prusa i3?
I want to thank you so much for making this awesome video comparison of all your 3D printers. You obviously have a passion for design and engineering so I subbed and look forward to learning more about 3d printing and additive manufacturing.
Your videos are the gold standard for information and production quality! Finally able to get relevant information without a lot of nonsense. Well done!
I sincerely enjoyed the fast pace of this video. You could've easily made a 20-30 minute video on this topic, but you kept it to the point and factual. Well done 👍🏻
"Best 3D printer from my perspective is the one majority of my viewers can benefit from" - thank you for this. Many ppl review fancy expensive stuff without realizing that most ppl can't afford them.
Him talks about his printers
Me: doesn't see ender 3 at beginning
Me:checks date oh
But where's the *tiko* printer?
Tiko is there a fishy on it
I had a beta Tiko for years. It was a unicorn as it worked great, and everyone else seemed to have issues with theirs and many claim to have never got a clean print from theirs. I still have some of the prints from it and a bit of the blue Tiko filament I wouldn't dare try running through a printer as it's so brittle. The extruder finally died on it, and it was a sad day. Back when I use to fund 3d printer Kickstarters. Never did receive many of them.
I don't think there is one
what an entheusiast, really nice to watch and such a great review with IRL comparisons and not just the ads for the printers. Great job!
I have an Anet A8 printer right now and just ordered a CR-10. I am extremely excited to see so many people love the CR-10. Even after a few years the CR-10 is still one of the best options after the years. Love your videos, keep on creating! :)
I want all of them. For now I have a Tronxy X3 and XYZ Davinci Jr both ultra modified. Thanks for the reply! Also I'm in the UK and anyone else who is should go vote tomorrow!
Hah I was just reading his comment thinking man I wish you had this video and 15 minutes later it's here hahaha
th-cam.com/video/1lYmP_N_4Q4/w-d-xo.html
Hi RCLifeOn, What are you doing with your prints that have failed? Can this be recycled?
this is not a useful solution Peer Appel, it is just for fun and didn't worked fine ...
there is a PLA filament maker machine that can make filament from chopped crap. google it
do you mean this one? www.filabot.com/
Upgraded to a Cr-10s after having worked with a ANET A6 for about 8 months. Its an amazing step in quality! Although starting out with an ANET I’ll never regret! Best chance to learn how a printer works from top to bottom.
Can we get an updated 2020 3D printers compared....
Please please please.......
if you make an updated version of this, please include the ender series (ender 3, ender 5 etc)
I can't even keep the settings straight for my tevo tarantula, no way i would keep the settings straight for 6 different printers!
same with my ender 3, I am getting the cr-6se tho
The Tarantula printed backwards and you didn't mention it.
You didn't list the times for each printer - should have tested again after the filament mess up and the size mess up ect.
Also if you slow any printer down you tend to get better prints - so The delta finishing before the CR-10 and the CR-10 having better results are meaningless what happens when you slow the delta down to match the print time of the CR-10?
This comparison only told us that:
Mankati e180 for5 ease of use
Anet A8 is a first printer for true 'makers' willing to design print upgrades - at the best price
Tarantula will print the opposite of what ever you wanted in the first place
The Rework should have been made larger
The TevoDelta will save you time and thus money and will pay for itself before all the other
The CR-10 is a good printer (but may be very slow, who knows? we don't!)
I have an Anet A8 - I will always be fond of it - it was my first time :)
I want to build a Delta - I may actually upgrade the A8 to a delta
IF I were rich I would buy a Mankati e180 - if for nothing more than ABS !
5/10 for the collection review (-3 out of envy, -2 for cocking up the test)
+10 for the electrocution effects :)
Am I the only one that wanted the resolution of each printer? Are they all the same? Do most viewers already know the resolutions for each one? (Resolution might not be the right word for 3d printers but you know what I mean. Smallest addressable point.)
thanksfernuthin I believe he said he printed them all at .2mm layers height.
Thanks, Jason. Do you think that means they are all the same? Or that he set them all the same for the test? Price, size, speed and quality are the things I'd like to know. (And anyone else that watched thinking of purchasing.) Highest resolution would be part of quality.
You're right...I don't know that they are all printing with the same speed settings and such. I'll have to watch again to see if he says so.
Maybe you should make a blog/video then... just saying.
Setup was super easy. Both myself and my son were able to print directly from our phones within minutes. Printing is a little slow but acceptable. Nice printer for light usage.
I have been printing with the CR 10 for a week now, and this printer is mind blowing. Considering its price/performance this must be the best printer to buy in the world. I got it for 3600 SEK(423 USD). 300 microns look like 200 microns, and 200 look like 100 microns, and as is mentioned in the video the layers are laid down perfectly and in all axis. I don't understand why people feel the need to mod this machine, like messing with the fan duct or extruder when you can print one small object at 100 microns, at slow speed and still get no warping due to the extruder being close. Overhangs are also printed extremely well. If this machine cost one, two or up to three times more than it does, it would still make sense to buy it.
If you are wondering if this machine is only good for large print like i was wondering before i bought it, wonder no more, it can handle both very very well. I started with UncleJesses Simplify3D settings, they worked well but i have tweaked them quite a bit, but only small tweaks in numbers. One needs to tweak these settings depending on filament and not just the machine. I am guessing this printer can handle 50 microns as well, i am just about to test it. for print speed i have it set to 60mm/s
Anything negative well yes some:
1# My Z coupler was stretched out and basically destroyed, someone had printed with the machine as there was black filament in the nozzle. I was devastated over this since it took 25 days for the printer to arrive (gearbest/hongkong). I was anxious to print and did not want to mess with support and them sending me a new z coupler. I was ready to order a new coupler from Sweden and get it by mail in 1-2 days, but what i did was to compress the coupler with large whatever they are called pliers, and refit the coupler and i was super lucky as i get no z wobble whatsoever. I have read that many people get this stretched out z coupler, it boggles my mind how they can send the machine with this error, i also know why this can happen to the coupler and they should too.
2# I have not heard anyone complain about this and i have seen people printing objects 400mm tall that are perfect but, when small jittery features are being printed at the bottom, the top vibrates, BUT, i have got my printer standing at a large square piece of packing foam that was protecting the printer in its box. This could be the reason why i have extra vibrations, in fact it is very likely. One can do a mod for increased stability, also i think when small motions are made when the extruder are way up in the frame at the top of the object, the vibration will be much less or not exist since it is not happening at the base.
3# PSU noise, the power supply fan is crazy loud. The printer itself is not bad, but the PSU i will have to fix, there are solutions to this, they should have included a heat controller for this fan. I will have to take one from my old Prusa i3 that is really silent.
4# The controller knob for the display does not register clicks too well on my machine, could be a little better.
With all that said, #1 and #2 could be a non issue for most people. My summary is that i wanted quality and print size this time and i got it. This printer is so good that i wonder how it compare to a MakerBot Z18 or similar that cost 8000 - 10 000 USD.
Hi! I have the Geeeee...tech i3 A with the sanguinololu board. It works just fine for me. What issues are you having with it?
*Where are you all from? I'm from Sweden, how about you?*
RCLifeOn India
Australia. cheers mate.
RCLifeOn I'm from Spain! continue like this!! :D
Philippines! o7
Germany
You remind me of "The Swede" David Windestal - Nice comparison video, well made and I like your humor.
i have had my cr-10s for 4 years and have never had a malfunction. My college users Ultimaker and I have replaced the hotend 4 times within the last year. Each costing 250$. Cr-10 is hands-down the most reliable printer on the market and is the most upgradable.
I bought my first 3D printer, and it is a Ender 5 pro. I have to say that it was easy to assemble, but the first time I turned it on, the feed cable buckled and broke the stop sensor, so I am waiting on some new sensor I ordered. This brings me to the poor way they did not cover the sensors from damage, considering how cheap the sensors are, they should have made covers for them. Based on your review, I may take a closer look at the CR10.
heads up the tarantula is cheaper than the anet a8 for me atleast living in europe (sweden) cause gearbest take around 60$ for shipping while the tarantula has free shiping i saved around 30$
The shipping in Gearbest is free!! You should know that!!!!!
it sure wasnt for me where do u live ? i ordered one myself so i should know
Hi! Would you have an idea on how much taxes I would pay buying the tarantula from gearbest? (I live in denmark)
i dont know ur tax rates in denmark but i had to pay 550 sek in import tax living in sweden. I would not order from gearbest however as they are really unreliable but from aliexpress i got it cheaper and with free express shiping. Really happy with the printer but took a while to get it running well
The tarantula company support sucks. I received a DOA motherboard from them. Took me 2 months of going back and forth with them before they would send me a replacement.
me here in 2020 seeing how far 3d printing has come
not that far from 2017 actually
Sam Channon same
Now we just need an updated video to see if the rankings/reviews held up over the last few years.
@@andrewdickenson6935 Yes, i just got the ender 3 as my 4th 3d printer for by business and its great highly recommended, a fun build better then all my previous full kits that took hours and had crappy instructions
hi i have a geetech i3 it took me year to make it work i've faced all kind of problems with the extruder, drivers, software... but it finally works maybe i can help you with yours
omar bentaleb send me ur own cell no plz I need talk to u my wats up no 9858757575
Really useful comparison. As a beginner, I was a little bit lost, and that helps me a lot, many thanks!
I love that your favorite is not just opinion it's what you think more of you're audience will buy / use
Good man!
Well, my Anet A8 prints WAY better than that. You should check that machine and improve it with some parts. Nevertheless, great video!
Seriously? Which modifications did you apply on this 3D printer? (Anet A8) I would like to know, since i considered buying it myself.
Thingiverse is full with updates for the Anet A8, I also have one and it prints great!
I only did one upgrade yet and that was a vibration demper to reduce the sound noise. Next update will be adding a mosfet, because the Anet isn't the safest 3d printer on the internet...
That's right, thingiverse is full of upgrades for the Anet A8. For the vibrations, by just simply adding a chunk of withe foam below the machine (I've holded down my printer to a table using 3D printed brackets) it reduces the noise a lot and also improves the print quality because there are less vibrations. I recommend to use the "Spriya" fanduct, is much better than the popular semicircular one.
I also use the spriya fan duct and it has greatly improved the printer as a whole. I recommend printing a filament guide and spool holder though to reduce strain on the extruder. The y belt tensioner is a must also.
mikel9292 - the Chinese cloners have missed the boat.....had some bright spark brought out a clone of the A8 ..with all the upgrades included and added a bit of quality control ....Joe Prusa would have a serious contender. The A8 set up reasonably well and taking care with the bed level, produces some class prints.
I have just been recommended to get the "prusa i3 mk3". Have you reviewed that yet? Do you know how the speed compares?
No because it's not aviable at gearbest so he won't get it for free
where would you rank the Ender 3 in this list?
I would rank it #2, just behind the Ultimaker. Ultimaker is awesome, but stupidly overpriced. Ender 3, specially the Pro comes pretty damn close quality-wise once you tune it well!
Thank you so very much for all your effort in reviewing these 3D printers , I'm now sold on the
Creality CR-10 so I'll be buying the unit that is capable of 500x500x500 .
Thank you for your effort. Finally come comparable tests. I was wondering if I should get the Trinus 3D, because of it's great precision, but it seems that the CR10 is on par, but wiht much more space. A little critics I got: I think if you had chosen a less intense color (grey?), we could see layers and printing quality better.
Have you tried the Pursa MK2S how is its quality in all of this?
I just built the i3 MK3 and it blows the doors off of these printers in terms of quality (components, instructions, features, and print quality). Speed, I'm not sure of because I didn't notice him state the time this took. Also, I think he stated that he printed all of the models with the same settings, but I didn't hear nozzle diameter and layer height. There could have been a difference of quality if he chose very thick layers for speed.
Its junk, we got one a few months ago, the power supply took a crap, then the Ramps took a crap. Absolutely no customer service from prusa despite 4 emails
@@brandon1566 I'm under the impression that their customer service team doesn't have many who can interpret written English well, but I was able to talk with them. My power supply was starting to make a noise at some vibration nodes, so I took it apart to find that this Chinese-made power supply was of poor quality (including a capacitor installed with the leads shorted together). The rest of the printer is pretty darn good, and I've been running it nearly nonstop for about a month and a half now. After describing (in unnecessary detail) the observations and tweaks I had made, they replied with a brief email stating that they were sending me a replacement complete power supply, smooth rods kit, and bearings.
My printer is the MK3 though. In this price range, it doesn't seem worth it to skimp.
@@brandon1566 an authentic Pursa MK2S uses a Rambo board, not a Ramps???
What about the Ender Creality 3?
It's because that would have been a given winner hands down so these here are just the second places.
@@dtiydr have to agree with you there. The Ender 3 is such a good little printer.
And Creality is still holding strong to this day.
i current own an cr10s , being printing out of it since 2018, very reliable printer for sure. I recently upgraded my hotend with ed3 v6 and put a new skr mini 1.2 32bit board, oh man the quality improved soo much since now i can enable linear advance.
Great showcase. The Cr-10 looks good. Do you know how an Ender 5 stacks up against the cr-10?
"One of the sheepa product "lol,awesome bro!!, like the video a lot!
Can I print flexible filament with the creality cr10?
I believe he said in the cr10 review that you can print flexible the only cavet he had was that it doesn't get hot enough for abs without some help!
brunn eu yes u can
Can you please do a balco 3D printer review I have one and I want to see what you think. :) P.S I have got great prints out of it but i'am having some trouble with flexible filament, its base model is a pura 3D printer. I am 11
Matthew Hutchinson this is a wanhao rebranded machine. Direct drive, which should do flexible just fine. Make sure to start first layer at a crawl (15mm/s) and the keep the rest of the print under 30mm/s.
Just wanted to say thank you for doing this video. It was clear and your assumptions on rating were fair. We novice's thank you.
Video was informative. I just bought the Anet A8 because it was on sale for $140, but of course it requires upgrades, MOSFET, switch, etc. However I think its a good start. I plan to print my own enclosure to house the power supply and MOFSET. Once I have it running, I will go for the Creality CR-10 after this review!
I have the Anet A8 and I just bought the CR-10 after watching this too. lol
Making it the sheepish at 160 lol 😂
Yeah, he did that comparison for the mayority of his viewers, lol.
Ha ha. So fun. Ha. Ha ha.
Can someone please help me: I am trying to get into product development, over the last year I have saved up a bit of money for a PC and a printer...
I am stuck between the Tevo Tarantula and Creality, but if I would go for the Creality printer, i would have to cut $200 off my Pc budget, making it a $700 computer.
What would you do?
go with the cr-10 and get a $700 computer
700$ PC should be good enough, especially if you make it yourself, plus, after a year or two, if you need some boost to your PC, you can always upgrade some parts of it that you feel need the most attention. So if you feel like you can build your own PC, definitely go for the Creality printer.
Kommentator agree with Adrian Bard
Get a second hand Thinkpad, such as a T430 or a T450. A T430 can be had very cheaply (300ish), and will outperform any laptop in the 700 range. Saves money for a better printer.
That's for a laptop though :p
get the creality. Now that AMD's ryzen 5 cpus are on the market (and have had time for all the bugs with the new motherboard platform to be worked out), you can build a fantastic cad machine for $700. I'd say go for a ryzen 5 1600, as you get a six core, 12 thread cpu that performs comparably to the $450 intel 6800k, for around $200. 16gb ram is super worth it for cad, you'll really use up ram fast as you make more complex designs. Also go with fast ram (2666mhz or above) for ryzen as it likes lots of ram speed. finally, get a decently fast budget-oriented gaming gpu such as an nvidia 1050ti or radeon rx 560. Here's a link to a good example build I threw together, but remember pc part pricing fluctuates often so you'll want to tweak it depending on the shape of the market when you purchase: pcpartpicker.com/list/tmHy2R
So what are your print settings for the Creality CR-10. And what Slicer do you use?
Currently I'm using Cura. It's free for everyone and works great. Maybe I should do a video on it?
you should definitely do that :) great work @RCLifeOn!
just got the CR-10 & its amazing. I had an issue with the print starting at the bottom left. Please do a Cura tut. thanks
yes
I have tested a lot of printers at work and prusa is out of the League. All other printers need to much "love" to print as good as the prusa. Even when you go for multimaterial. The mmu2s is still the best choice. The mosaic have some issues you can't fix when you have long printing times... you should try the prusa!
i love the tevo delta
Lol
Well that's how you make a review !!!! Applause!
I'm also going to buy a 3D printer
M2 bro
I know ur parent will mad
I just bought a cr-20 pro, which one did you buy?
Me too... actually tomorrow
Don't buy it's waste money it's like printing liquid ewww smell bad it also not plastic
When you did this video, you forgot about one you reviewed creality ender 3
nick svaluto he didn’t have it yet when he made this video. Check the dates 😉
Iv'e got a GEEETECH i3.... Got it broken from a friend, replaced the Extruder, and Replaced the drivers.. And it is working Perfectly
I bought the CR-10 and it is a excellent 3 d printer. I lucked out on a brand new one. I paid $163.00 on E bay and free shipping about a month ago.
I will never have to buy shoes again
Which printer is YOUR favorite?
Tevo Tarantula, price and quality are matching
at jezz I aint got one
CR-10 but they have an even larger one coming out shortly.
*YOU'RE
The one I have ;-)
you should get a sls printer
Excellent video. You are very good at this, and I hope to see more. I've been watching reviews randomly for a few days, and yours was the most informative and entertaining....literally leaps and bound above the others.
Enjoyed the video! Last year I bought CR10s Pro for $800 CAD, quite satisfied with it.
i like cr-10
A bigger version is coming out shortly so I hope the CR-10 is reduced in price by say 10%.
any 3D printers who work with metal.?
to create metalic items..?
RAPTOR Sjk that would be a DMLS printer. They’re still very large, use industrial levels of voltage, and very expensive.
Some printers make different types of plastics though which are more durable than others.
someone who work with gold... I have alot...
That would be called SLS printing, which is different from these FDM printers. Most expensive type of printing. What you can do with these FDM printers is create a mold of your print with castable filament, then pouring metal into it to create your metal piece.
Cr 10 seems to win in my book
ditto
I have the Geeetech I3 Pro B, it can do great prints if you get it calibrated perfectly, however it can take hours to adjust the Z axis but once done it never needs calibrating again. You do however need to apply some sort of lubricant to it before each print in order to get a decent print.
Man, this video is amazing. It just gets straight to the point.
He should buidd him selve a printer
Holy shit is this guy rich or something
Or he gets enough views on youtube where manufactures send him printers for free for free adv.
:D
He gets sponsored
No. They send him those printers to review.
now imagine how many 3D printers real rich people could afford...lol they wouldn't fit in houses.
Names of the printers stay on screen for amazing 0.5 seconds, which makes you feel like you are challenged every time for speed reading competition. Just kidding. Make them stay longer. #muppetediting
use the features for optically challenged viewers.
Go to menu , then click on "Pause". ;D
Thanks for this! I'm looking to get my first 3d printer sometime in the future, little to no experience, trying to find out which one is best for me ~the whole 9 yards~
Your review of these gave me a lot of insight on prices vs quality - and honestly I'm surprised to see that some of the cheaper ones still have great quality results. I suppose a better show of comparisons would be then to use different filaments and see how they all stack up with those as well.
Hi, i am doing a Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering. I have taken a Design Elective, and have to write about how 3D printing aids the design process. I am enjoying your videos. Its helping me a lot.
Awesome, glad I could help!
salve
"Sheeper Alternative "
covfefe
Well done. Clear and neet presentation. I do use 3D printing for parts we can't find anymore in our Montreal Aviation Museum in our aircraft retoration... Using outside services to print - but seriously lookingfor our own... The CR-10 looks cool - and in our tight budget range. ... Will see yet...
Hello, I recommend the new Tevo Tarantula Pro. $200 from Banggood. Uses older stepper motors, though. Easily upgraded for 20-25$ 95% DIY, also room for WiFi, BLT, and Dual Z upgrade
Sheeper :)
Beatiful information for those are intended to buy a 3D printer and don't know anything about it. Thank you a lot!
I know I'm late to the party but just wanted to thank you for making this video. It's noticable that you've made some serious effort to make the video right so I think you deserved my subscription to your channel. Cheers
Very, Very informative although I don't have a clue why you have so many "thumbs down". But for someone who is shopping and looking for a printer that will suit not only their budget but proficiency level, I was very impressed with your reviews and side-by-side demonstrations.
Excellent work. I'm buying the CR-10.
The CR-10 is the only one I've owned but except for a temperamental nozzle heater I'm happy with the prints.
Great video, thanks. I got a CR-10 a couple of months ago and I'm very happy with it.
Great review. The CR-10 is my choice. The quality with the size possibilities is best suited to me. Thumbs up
first comparison video I ever watched on 3d printers, looking to purchase one, GREAT VIDEO. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Not to piss in anyone's pool, but printers are like musical instruments; a skilled operator can make a masterpiece from a shoddy printer whereas an unskilled n00b can't make anything worthwhile no matter how good the printer/slicer/CAD files/filament may be.
I know this sounds 'soft', but the best printer is the one that fills your needs today and will not be obsolete before your magnum opus is done printing.
Deltas do not have salmon-skin as a natural result of how they print, that particular printer has a salmon-skin issue due to the drivers not being used properly.
Micro-stepping can be your friend...
Case in point: My Anycubic Kossel linear plus, out of the box [sic], had prominent salmon-skin and very loud/very hot steppers.
Replaced the stepper drivers, made a change in firmware, now the cooling fans are the loudest part of any print job, with zero salmon-skin on the model.
DIY seems to be a strong theme, too bad you didn't take it a bit farther on your Deltas...
Ah.. 2017. That's about the same time I bought my (only) printer, a Wanhao i3 Plus. I was about to buy the Tarantula but when I visited the shop I saw how the Wanhao only took four screws to assemble - it did cost an extra $75 or so, but it was worth it.
Gotta say I’m pretty happy with my Creality-CR10S 👍
I wish I could get the settings they use from the gcode, for the Creality dog that comes on the flash drive.
I had a Printrbot 1405 Simple wood version I had a lot of fun with that is 1/2 DIY.
From San Diego, CA, USA
I just ordered the CR10 printer and used your code to save about $130. Thank you. Looking forward to learning, using and possibly making some extra money.
How is this printer working for you? Have you bought any more printers yet?
I did had a Geeetech Prusa I3 kit. I assembled and even got it running. But the steel rods were actually some cheap alloy and came warped and bent leading to bad printing results. I even made a custom updated firmware based on Marlin to fix some issues. But ultimately the hardware was very bad quality... I contacted the company in China and they sent me replacement parts but forgot to add a 0$ receipt and so my country customs wanted to charge me more than the printer cost itself. So, yep, same as you, a printer that is good for parts. Seems like the Creality Ender 3D is the good deal to go now.
Very good review. I particularly like the way that you say why you consider a particular printer the best. Please correct me if I'm wrong., but don't the delta printers have the ability to scan a finished object for duplication as well or am I confusing it with something else. I also like the fact that you did a head-to-head run-off with all of the printers side-by-side as well as finish as well as the time it took for each machine. So far I have not seen anyone else do this on the net, so thank you very much. Now all I can do is to look for an additive 3D printer that can give me a metal finished product.
could never get good prints out of the tevo tarantula after i managed to get it working in the first place
which took a while