Great Video thankyou, please keep them coming. I'll have to be a bit more organised when I take my keys off or I'll never find out how they go back together!
Thank you, I really appreciate this very useful video. Very helpful and informative. I saw with great interest how you obtained the glue using flake shellac and add denatured alcohol to it and let it sit for a day. Really excellent method. But I would like to know how long it takes for this glue to harden, basically how much time I have available to be able to "float" the pad into place. Thanks for your help. Cordial greetings.
You say that you are putting the pads in after the keys are on so that you can seat the pads in a level position as you install them and that this lets the shellac fully harden with the pads already level to the toneholes. If this is true, then why did you have to go back and bend the keys in order to have the pads level with the toneholes?
Bending the keys that much he did means there is something else wrong, most likely the key-posts are bend. I never hear the pads "pop" witch indicates it closes perfectly!
Leveling that first pad seemed problematic and it was a shame after watching the video for a while you cut the video so we did not see what you had to do to finally get the pad level, do you have to be careful with the tool you were using not to bend the seating or are the seats able to take a lot of force?
I did, they are not great. A key has always to close perfect for max playability, also with MMedic's. And the sounds different, less brilliant than leather pads. These pads are only good for lazy sax repairs!
You can "float" the pad into place when the shellac is wet. When it hardens, you can melt it with a torch on the top of the key cup (only try this if you know how to do it without doing damage). If the shellac is hard, you can bend the key with a pad leveling tool too.
What a good video master the glue paste I like what name it has is pairs to the one that is used regularly chelad or something like that name has and where do I get it? thanks health
It's ''shellac'' you can buy it from Ferree's, allied supplies and similar BIR sellers. But cabinet makers and other wood-related trades use it so you probably can find some in a drugstore.
the glue is shellac. he simply uses it liquid and puts very little on the edges of the pad. I use a different amount of non-liquid sellac, or sometimes hot glue, and I use a completely different tecnique to adjust the pad. Greetings from Italy
This is the way that I was taught in college and I have never damaged a tone hole with this tool. I will admit to bending a pad cup every now and then, but those are easy to straighten back out if needed.
When u use hard shellac as ur glue u could re hear it and adjust the pad instead of the keys. So if you have a cheap Saxophone and you don’t want to damage it you reheat the shellac while the pad is inside and level the pad not the key.
There are 2 things that I can think of right off the top of my head. 1. The High F# key may not be in the slot of the high F# lever. 2. The spring may not be put back in the correct place or it may have been bent so it is pushing on the wrong side of the spring cradle. I hope this helps.
Great videos Sir! Helped me get my sons new vintage sax ready for play. Appreciate what you do!
Great video. Thank you.
Great Videos!
I really enjoy your videos, Art! Thank you for creating them. I feel like I'm learning a lot watching your channel.
Great Video thankyou, please keep them coming. I'll have to be a bit more organised when I take my keys off or I'll never find out how they go back together!
Awesome video amen 🙏
Thank you, I really appreciate this very useful video. Very helpful and informative. I saw with great interest how you obtained the glue using flake shellac and add denatured alcohol to it and let it sit for a day. Really excellent method.
But I would like to know how long it takes for this glue to harden, basically how much time I have available to be able to "float" the pad into place.
Thanks for your help. Cordial greetings.
You say that you are putting the pads in after the keys are on so that you can seat the pads in a level position as you install them and that this lets the shellac fully harden with the pads already level to the toneholes. If this is true, then why did you have to go back and bend the keys in order to have the pads level with the toneholes?
Cowboy method
Bending the keys that much he did means there is something else wrong, most likely the key-posts are bend. I never hear the pads "pop" witch indicates it closes perfectly!
Hang on...he's just bending keys
you need to put a half paper washer on the side that you see the light , not to put a tool on and bending the key , that the wrong way .
How long until the liquid shellac is dried completely??
When bending keys with that tool, I'm worried that he'll bust the hinge rod on the other end.
or just bend toneholes
Leveling that first pad seemed problematic and it was a shame after watching the video for a while you cut the video so we did not see what you had to do to finally get the pad level, do you have to be careful with the tool you were using not to bend the seating or are the seats able to take a lot of force?
Have you tried Music Medic’s self leveling pads?
I did, they are not great. A key has always to close perfect for max playability, also with MMedic's. And the sounds different, less brilliant than leather pads. These pads are only good for lazy sax repairs!
Question: can you only manipulate the pads when the shelac is wet (or not 100% set) or can you make adjustments at anytime?
You can "float" the pad into place when the shellac is wet. When it hardens, you can melt it with a torch on the top of the key cup (only try this if you know how to do it without doing damage). If the shellac is hard, you can bend the key with a pad leveling tool too.
What a good video master the glue paste I like what name it has is pairs to the one that is used regularly chelad or something like that name has and where do I get it? thanks health
It's ''shellac'' you can buy it from Ferree's, allied supplies and similar BIR sellers. But cabinet makers and other wood-related trades use it so you probably can find some in a drugstore.
Hello, great video, what name of the glue do you use for this collage of pads?
the glue is shellac. he simply uses it liquid and puts very little on the edges of the pad. I use a different amount of non-liquid sellac, or sometimes hot glue, and I use a completely different tecnique to adjust the pad.
Greetings from Italy
Couldn't you possibly damage the toneholes with that tool?
This is the way that I was taught in college and I have never damaged a tone hole with this tool. I will admit to bending a pad cup every now and then, but those are easy to straighten back out if needed.
If you have a cheap saxophone with cheap materials u could band damage it
When u use hard shellac as ur glue u could re hear it and adjust the pad instead of the keys. So if you have a cheap Saxophone and you don’t want to damage it you reheat the shellac while the pad is inside and level the pad not the key.
🎷🌻
How do you get the long (high f#)key in the right hand back on without it getting stuck open. When I put mine back on it doesn’t spring back closed.
There are 2 things that I can think of right off the top of my head. 1. The High F# key may not be in the slot of the high F# lever. 2. The spring may not be put back in the correct place or it may have been bent so it is pushing on the wrong side of the spring cradle.
I hope this helps.
@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop I found the proplem: the screws were over tightened.
What cane or sizea pad can I use for alto sax couesnon antique?
I do not know exactly what size that is. There are so many different sizes of sax pads. Measure the inside of the pad cup with a ruler.
That screwboard reminds me of a cribbage board.
Never bend the 4 keys that much as you did. There is for sure something else wrong with the horn!!!