Best points/timing tutorial yet.. no offense to all the enthusiasts showing how it's done on other channels. This guy is a great instructor! Many thanks! 👍👍
Hello dear sir, thanks for your explanation, had this bike 20 years ago. We had a hard time figuring out the ignition. It will not run without a battery. Just bought an old CT90, hahaha same engine with the same ignition. Nowadays knowledgeable like yourself share their knowledge. I thank you for sharing. Love the way you time with a multimeter!
Thank you this is the best explanation on setting points I've seen. I've been trying to set them on my Honda CB125s but they have been very temperamental. The workshop manual is very unclear. Hopefully this should help a lot! Cheers!
well done! the screws on the honda's are JIS- Japan Industrial Standard. they are different than phillips #1,#2,#3 Get JIS screwdriver tips and an impact driver!
Looked at this video over a year ago when I was overwhelmed. But just did another look and I can completely understand and just timed it with my multimeter! Now I just need to figure out my battery and fuse wiring before I start it 🙈
Might I suggest that you purchase a set of JIS drivers (bits or handled drivers), you will strip out fewer fastener heads as they are designed for the straight JIS bit. Phillips head are designed to cam out.
Hello and thank you for the tutorial. I put the multimeter prob on the end of the points wire and the other end to ground (engine block) but no beep from multimeter when points are closed. Test the wire connected to the points to make sure the wire was good and it has continuity. When touching the meter probe on the end of points wire I have continuity all the way up the points meaning meter is beeping until I reach the opposite side of the points. No beep touching ground, motor block, frame etc... Does this mean my points are bad or stator or both ? Thank you.
Good video. I used this method on two bikes very well. On current bike I can't get any continuity beep when finding ground. Have you an idea why this might be. Thanks
great video lots of precice detail that most others miss . yes the impact driver has saved me many times, because with second hand bikes someone else has usualy recked the screws already. if i find any motorcycle thats dead i always salvage screws and bolts that are still good, never had to go shoping for screws in 40years . baught 2 honda st90 trail of a lovley old prospector they had been lying in the sun uncovered for many years repaired all the things that YOU yorself would no would be perished or rusted, took the worst one with compresion like it had no piston. but it still starts first or second kick. took it prospecting and over 4months traveled 500kms over extreemly rough terain never let me down ever. since about 1990 even the quality of japanees bikes have fallen greatly THANKS FOR THE INFO BUD cheers from australia i subscribed
Hi , thanks for very informative video, just bought Honda ct90 and was having hard time to start the bike , after watching your video it’s starts on a first kick , thanks
Hello there. Thank you for this detailed explanation. I’m working on my CD125S which is very similar in layout and got it back from a mechanic but it doesn’t start. Got a great spark. But my experience is that the points are opening at the bottom of the stroke and not the top (the 2nd rotation of the stator) is it possible that the cam on the points shaft has been put back the wrong way around?
The cam shaft is locked in position with the front timing chain sprocket cam. On the sprocket cam there is a circular O mark, this should line up with the notch mark on the left hand casing of the cylinder head. If those two marks line up then your cams will be in the correct position. to check this you will need to access the sprocket/timing cam so you will need first remove the points assembly plate to view it
@@religionisasnare - I'm really grateful that you have responded to me so quickly. I've created a video of my context and if could review this video and comment based on what you see, it certainly would help me move forward. I thank you once again in advance - here is that video link: th-cam.com/video/M4P8BYVduUw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you! I'd been looking for a vid tutorial on finding TDC on compression stroke, but none had that bit of crucial information. I adjusted my valve, but wasn't sure it was on compression stroke or not.
people have pointed this out, however what should be considered on these old engines is the screws have probably been replaced many times over and likely replaced with the more common Phillips type screw. The important thing is that the screwdriver bit fits tightly into the screwhead. JIS screwdrivers foul the screws just as easy as any other.
Hello- thanks for this video! I am following your process but do not get any continuity at any point in the rotation. I have 6v at the points when testing it with my multimeter and I followed these steps below from another blog: "Disconnect the wire coming from the points assembly where it attaches to the main wire harness and then get a length of wire that has a short length of insulation stripped from each end and then take one end and insert it into the female connector for the points on the main wire harness. Now with the key turned on like you were going to start the bike, touch the free end of the wire to the case of the engine or any other good ground for a second or two and then remove the end of the wire from where you had it grounded. The moment you remove the wire from the point where you had it grounded you should see a spark at the spark plug. If you now do get a spark that means your coil, condenser, plug wire and spark plug are all good and you have an issue somewhere within your points assembly or with the wire coming from the points being shorted out where it passes through the opening in the cylinder or the that same wire having an internal break." Any ideas?
You have to find a good contact ground on the engine otherwise no continuity will show. If you feel you have a good ground then I would start looking at the points and how they wired. it can only be one of those two things.
Really great useful video - My points open and close at various points - Bike is now running - but doesnt want to rev - I believe i now need to adjust timing - any thoughts
Great video. Just to confirm do I want to make my adjustments when the piston is the top or the bottom of the stroke? The video at (7:25) talks about when the rotor is 'loose' vs 'firm' and either stays in place or doesn't when you take pressure off the wrench. Do I want the rotor to be 'loos'e or 'firm' position to make my adjustments? Many thanks Greg
@@religionisasnare Okay thank you. I think was trying to set on the other side of stroke. I was trying to set when the rotor was 'firm' and not 'loose' Thanks for the help.
Looks like you have got the cam shaft timing sprocket out of position. The 0 on the sprocket should line up with the notch on the sprocket side engine casing, also check that the rotar /generator is in its slotted position
i just acquired a cub and it is missing a single screw. you can see it clearly at 12:00 sitting in the center of the black cylinder. what is that little bolt there for?
I think you must be referring to the bolt that holds the timing chain guide wheel in place, the timing chain will run slack without it and cause running problems.
The reason you have trouble with your screwdrivers fitting properly is because the Japanese don't use Phillips head screws, they are JIS screws (Japanese industrial standard). Get some JIS screwdrivers and you'll be amazed.
I watched this video 3 years ago when I bought a '66 Honda CM91. I just bought a '65 Honda S90, and here I am watching again. I love everything about this video👍
Hi, great video! I'm wanting to install a sl 90 engine in my brother's c100 frame. Is that a c100 at the end of the video? And if so was your engine swap difficult?
"if you're really posh" lol. They are like $40. That got a laugh. I think you can run it off a 12v battery, the gun, and clamp the pickup around the coil wire, as usual.
Best points/timing tutorial yet.. no offense to all the enthusiasts showing how it's done on other channels. This guy is a great instructor! Many thanks! 👍👍
OMG, that was the best explanation of whether the piston is on the compression stroke or not. THANK YOU
I just bought a barn find 1976 CL70, this brilliant video is going to come in very handy. I haven't set points for decades! Thank you.
Hello dear sir, thanks for your explanation, had this bike 20 years ago. We had a hard time figuring out the ignition. It will not run without a battery. Just bought an old CT90, hahaha same engine with the same ignition. Nowadays knowledgeable like yourself share their knowledge. I thank you for sharing. Love the way you time with a multimeter!
Thank you this is the best explanation on setting points I've seen. I've been trying to set them on my Honda CB125s but they have been very temperamental. The workshop manual is very unclear. Hopefully this should help a lot! Cheers!
well done!
the screws on the honda's are JIS- Japan Industrial Standard. they are different than phillips #1,#2,#3
Get JIS screwdriver tips and an impact driver!
I just bought my first c90 cub. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated from across the pond!
The screws are not philips head they are jis heads and are likely to strip the heads if you use a philips screw driver
skip to 5:30 if you want get to the point
Looked at this video over a year ago when I was overwhelmed. But just did another look and I can completely understand and just timed it with my multimeter! Now I just need to figure out my battery and fuse wiring before I start it 🙈
Might I suggest that you purchase a set of JIS drivers (bits or handled drivers), you will strip out fewer fastener heads as they are designed for the straight JIS bit. Phillips head are designed to cam out.
see previous posts
Спасибо огромное. Хороший мастер, редкий двигатель, мало кто может и знает. Мне помогли очень.
Very helpful, thank you. I did laugh when you described what eating meant as I am on the other side of the pond lol.
Hello and thank you for the tutorial. I put the multimeter prob on the end of the points wire and the other end to ground (engine block) but no beep from multimeter when points are closed. Test the wire connected to the points to make sure the wire was good and it has continuity. When touching the meter probe on the end of points wire I have continuity all the way up the points meaning meter is beeping until I reach the opposite side of the points. No beep touching ground, motor block, frame etc... Does this mean my points are bad or stator or both ? Thank you.
Good video. I used this method on two bikes very well. On current bike I can't get any continuity beep when finding ground. Have you an idea why this might be. Thanks
Bike is a C90 k1 1974
Got it working....thanks
@@thepracticalman5905 👍
great video lots of precice detail that most others miss . yes the impact driver has saved me many times, because with second hand bikes someone else has usualy recked the screws already. if i find any motorcycle thats dead i always salvage screws and bolts that are still good, never had to go shoping for screws in 40years . baught 2 honda st90 trail of a lovley old prospector they had been lying in the sun uncovered for many years repaired all the things that YOU yorself would no would be perished or rusted, took the worst one with compresion like it had no piston. but it still starts first or second kick. took it prospecting and over 4months traveled 500kms over extreemly rough terain never let me down ever. since about 1990 even the quality of japanees bikes have fallen greatly THANKS FOR THE INFO BUD cheers from australia i subscribed
Hi , thanks for very informative video, just bought Honda ct90 and was having hard time to start the bike , after watching your video it’s starts on a first kick , thanks
Wish I could thumbs up again. Set mine on my CL90 and required me to go far past the notch out, but it is running (other things to look at)
A very good explanation . I too, would like to see the multi meter's action at the firing point.
I believe its a bell sound
I stripped 4 screws in my journey,and for 3 of them a vice grip worked,1 had to be drilled through and easy out
Hello there. Thank you for this detailed explanation. I’m working on my CD125S which is very similar in layout and got it back from a mechanic but it doesn’t start. Got a great spark. But my experience is that the points are opening at the bottom of the stroke and not the top (the 2nd rotation of the stator) is it possible that the cam on the points shaft has been put back the wrong way around?
The cam shaft is locked in position with the front timing chain sprocket cam. On the sprocket cam there is a circular O mark, this should line up with the notch mark on the left hand casing of the cylinder head. If those two marks line up then your cams will be in the correct position. to check this you will need to access the sprocket/timing cam so you will need first remove the points assembly plate to view it
@@religionisasnare - I'm really grateful that you have responded to me so quickly. I've created a video of my context and if could review this video and comment based on what you see, it certainly would help me move forward. I thank you once again in advance - here is that video link: th-cam.com/video/M4P8BYVduUw/w-d-xo.html
@@howImetyourbrother not sure on the cd125, but the sprocket cam should have a O on it and a line up point on the engine casing like the C90.
@@religionisasnare - thanks once again. I'll do that and if I have any further questions will come back to you again. All the best
Thank you! I'd been looking for a vid tutorial on finding TDC on compression stroke, but none had that bit of crucial information. I adjusted my valve, but wasn't sure it was on compression stroke or not.
Thank you my friend. My terminal wire ended up being corroded lol.
Neat, on those screws you can see the JIS markings.
Hi great video, have you a video on how to replace a kick start spindle replacement..
Excellent presentation! Easy to follow and understand!
Hondas need JIS headed screwdrivers. that's why you are stripping screws
people have pointed this out, however what should be considered on these old engines is the screws have probably been replaced many times over and likely replaced with the more common Phillips type screw. The important thing is that the screwdriver bit fits tightly into the screwhead. JIS screwdrivers foul the screws just as easy as any other.
Best vid I've seen on this, cheers!
Hello- thanks for this video! I am following your process but do not get any continuity at any point in the rotation. I have 6v at the points when testing it with my multimeter and I followed these steps below from another blog:
"Disconnect the wire coming from the points assembly where it attaches to the main wire harness and then get a length of wire that has a short length of insulation stripped from each end and then take one end and insert it into the female connector for the points on the main wire harness. Now with the key turned on like you were going to start the bike, touch the free end of the wire to the case of the engine or any other good ground for a second or two and then remove the end of the wire from where you had it grounded. The moment you remove the wire from the point where you had it grounded you should see a spark at the spark plug. If you now do get a spark that means your coil, condenser, plug wire and spark plug are all good and you have an issue somewhere within your points assembly or with the wire coming from the points being shorted out where it passes through the opening in the cylinder or the that same wire having an internal break."
Any ideas?
You have to find a good contact ground on the engine otherwise no continuity will show. If you feel you have a good ground then I would start looking at the points and how they wired. it can only be one of those two things.
religionisasnare ok thanks for helping me rule out other issues. It must be the points I focus there - thanks !
Exceptional explanation and demonstration!
Yep well explained thanks
Well done with a most thorough explanation. Thank you sir.
Really great useful video - My points open and close at various points - Bike is now running - but doesnt want to rev - I believe i now need to adjust timing - any thoughts
Great video. Just to confirm do I want to make my adjustments when the piston is the top or the bottom of the stroke? The video at (7:25) talks about when the rotor is 'loose' vs 'firm' and either stays in place or doesn't when you take pressure off the wrench. Do I want the rotor to be 'loos'e or 'firm' position to make my adjustments?
Many thanks
Greg
top of its stroke Greg, when the rotar tends to move from the set F position
@@religionisasnare
Okay thank you. I think was trying to set on the other side of stroke. I was trying to set when the rotor was 'firm' and not 'loose' Thanks for the help.
Thanks for posting this. Great job! I last did this in 1985 & couldn’t remember? It’s all coming back to me now 👍👌
Great video and explanation thanks from New Zealand
great video, I have a 1979 ct90 and when I line up the F on the line no matter what rotation it is, it never lines up on top dead center
Looks like you have got the cam shaft timing sprocket out of position. The 0 on the sprocket should line up with the notch on the sprocket side engine casing, also check that the rotar /generator is in its slotted position
@@religionisasnare ok, I'll check it, thankyou
Brilliant mate
i just acquired a cub and it is missing a single screw. you can see it clearly at 12:00 sitting in the center of the black cylinder. what is that little bolt there for?
I think you must be referring to the bolt that holds the timing chain guide wheel in place, the timing chain will run slack without it and cause running problems.
religionisasnare thanks! I thought that is what it was.
Quik question , can i run the motor without the entire wiring loom?
I think I understand now thanks I’ve been looking for this video
Very spot on mate
The reason you have trouble with your screwdrivers fitting properly is because the Japanese don't use Phillips head screws, they are JIS screws (Japanese industrial standard). Get some JIS screwdrivers and you'll be amazed.
Great job. I understand. Thanks!
I watched this video 3 years ago when I bought a '66 Honda CM91. I just bought a '65 Honda S90, and here I am watching again.
I love everything about this video👍
you save my day,
love you:)
Thankx for that remindiner ...Trick for the compression stoke! Have Great day friend! Awsome..
Probably a good idea to replace all fasteners with allen.
Yes much better and practical, but to a purest or restorer its a big NO NO :)
Hay do you got any parts I can have
Many thanks for your effort
mere pass hm Honda 1964 90c bike Hai uski wiring jal gayi Hai how to make please tell me gues
Есть схема зарядки аккумулятора?
thank you sir! will be very helpful.. ....happy trails always....
Is that air raid sound necessary?
Hi, great video! I'm wanting to install a sl 90 engine in my brother's c100 frame. Is that a c100 at the end of the video? And if so was your engine swap difficult?
Good video and I love the Altered Beast sounds!
only a retro gamer would spot that, thanks
Brilliant video, nice bloke, cheers pal
Nice presentation!
Great video sir. Thank you.
Thanks..first video that give me hope 😃👍
great vid,. thanks for sharing..
Great teacher
Excellent video! Thanks!
Thank you! Very helpful
"if you're really posh" lol. They are like $40. That got a laugh. I think you can run it off a 12v battery, the gun, and clamp the pickup around the coil wire, as usual.
You are Good Thanks
Great vid thanks
Why do the points open at the Firing “F” mark?
when the points open it breaks the circuit and sends the electric charge through to the coil at the Ht lead and spark plug
Awesome help on setting the points, but never shows what you are looking for on the multimeter
I think you just use the multimeter to 'beep' when continuity is detected.
Thanx sir...
That’s Old School teaching
Thank you