The manual of the smart illustrates the basic position below the device, on the rope - not on the device itself. Is there a reason why you differ here?
There is a practical reason for that: several devices from different manufacturers function the same way. But the manufacturers’ manuals differ slightly. We look at the topic from the users’ perspective and are of the opinion that devices that function the same way should also be taught the same way. This is why we show the same method for all of them. Both ways are safe if carried out correctly.
When I learned securing, I learned that you always should take hold of the breaking rope with the other hand when moving the breaking hand upwards when taking in rope. Is there a reason you don’t need to do that with the smart 2.0?
The belaying technique shown in the video is internationally accepted by experts and professionals in the field including UIAA and various alpine associations. As a matter of fact the „hand-over-hand“ technique is not used for advanced sport climbing and competitions any more. Furthermore, many investigations showed, that in case of a fall the belayer is able to grab the rope fast enough, when you tunnel the rope correctly! Your hand always stays in contact with the rope and the natural reaction in case of a fall is to grab the rope (not taking your hands away)! The DAV has been teaching this technique successfully for more than 15 years now.
@@alpenverein I'm not buying it. When you go to a new climbing center and take a test to be allowed to belay, if you use a technique that involves taking your hand off the dead rope you won't be allowed to belay there. I've never been anywhere that deviates from this rule. It's literally the first thing you learn and it gets repeated constantly.
Hi friend, I don’t want to mean that but since that climbing are getting familiar then few years back, dragging people’s attention to discover the joy of this sport. Don’t you think it’s a very serious issue by deliver this action especially when people have multiple platforms from learning or researching online, the channel have more responsibilities on not only sharing the information but also as a role model to beginners? (Beside that, I very like the way how you explaining to lower climber using the device in this video!!) I learned the way which we have to belay with take over methods, its not only for spot climb or trad climb but also the basic top roped too….. It’s a bad habits especially you are demonstrating with an assistant braking device. Some places or country do prohibited the usage of ATC belay device when the reports came out to decrease accident. It will guides people to think about it’s only have to take over the brake side rope when using manual device not during ABD, but actually both need to…… My climbing instructor told us complacency is the killer. Hoping this approach doesn’t rude to anyone. My suggestion is it will be great if you mentioned the take over belay methods or the caution you mentioned on your description, or else pin your explanation on commend please ☺️
Different countries have different ways of teaching. This movie is made by the German climbing association and this is how it is teached nowadays in Germany and a lot of European countries for leadclimbing. I think in Austria or Germany the ATC isn't even used anymore in the beginners course. Anyway there's an overview of belay methods here: th-cam.com/video/qx3x5MMqGUg/w-d-xo.html
@@boerenkoolmetworstDid my lead course a few months ago. In our DAV Gym we got familiar with the Grigri+ but we also were shown how to use the Smart and the MegaJul 2. But the last ones were because our trainer wanted to show them to us. Tuber arent used anymore except by people who used them for a really long time. Smart and grigri are the most common in my area.
The manual of the smart illustrates the basic position below the device, on the rope - not on the device itself. Is there a reason why you differ here?
There is a practical reason for that: several devices from different manufacturers function the same way. But the manufacturers’ manuals differ slightly. We look at the topic from the users’ perspective and are of the opinion that devices that function the same way should also be taught the same way. This is why we show the same method for all of them. Both ways are safe if carried out correctly.
When I learned securing, I learned that you always should take hold of the breaking rope with the other hand when moving the breaking hand upwards when taking in rope. Is there a reason you don’t need to do that with the smart 2.0?
The belaying technique shown in the video is internationally accepted by experts and professionals in the field including UIAA and various alpine associations.
As a matter of fact the „hand-over-hand“ technique is not used for advanced sport climbing and competitions any more.
Furthermore, many investigations showed, that in case of a fall the belayer is able to grab the rope fast enough, when you tunnel the rope correctly! Your hand always stays in contact with the rope and the natural reaction in case of a fall is to grab the rope (not taking your hands away)!
The DAV has been teaching this technique successfully for more than 15 years now.
@@alpenverein I’d piss my pants if I took a fall on a belayer with that method
@@clarktilton2258 You dont need to. Its safe.
In the centres I've been too, if I did this I'd be banned most likely.
@@alpenverein I'm not buying it. When you go to a new climbing center and take a test to be allowed to belay, if you use a technique that involves taking your hand off the dead rope you won't be allowed to belay there. I've never been anywhere that deviates from this rule. It's literally the first thing you learn and it gets repeated constantly.
Are you seriously taking your grip off the dead rope, wtf?
he lets go of the brake strand 4 times within the first 7 seconds of the video lol
Tunneling is fine
The guy don’t know how to belay!
This is wrong! Never let gop of the dead rope.
Hi friend, I don’t want to mean that but since that climbing are getting familiar then few years back, dragging people’s attention to discover the joy of this sport.
Don’t you think it’s a very serious issue by deliver this action especially when people have multiple platforms from learning or researching online, the channel have more responsibilities on not only sharing the information but also as a role model to beginners?
(Beside that, I very like the way how you explaining to lower climber using the device in this video!!)
I learned the way which we have to belay with take over methods, its not only for spot climb or trad climb but also the basic top roped too….. It’s a bad habits especially you are demonstrating with an assistant braking device.
Some places or country do prohibited the usage of ATC belay device when the reports came out to decrease accident.
It will guides people to think about it’s only have to take over the brake side rope when using manual device not during ABD, but actually both need to……
My climbing instructor told us complacency is the killer. Hoping this approach doesn’t rude to anyone. My suggestion is it will be great if you mentioned the take over belay methods or the caution you mentioned on your description, or else pin your explanation on commend please ☺️
Different countries have different ways of teaching. This movie is made by the German climbing association and this is how it is teached nowadays in Germany and a lot of European countries for leadclimbing. I think in Austria or Germany the ATC isn't even used anymore in the beginners course.
Anyway there's an overview of belay methods here: th-cam.com/video/qx3x5MMqGUg/w-d-xo.html
@@boerenkoolmetworstDid my lead course a few months ago. In our DAV Gym we got familiar with the Grigri+ but we also were shown how to use the Smart and the MegaJul 2. But the last ones were because our trainer wanted to show them to us. Tuber arent used anymore except by people who used them for a really long time. Smart and grigri are the most common in my area.
Sorry, aber der Deutsche Alpenverein könnte seine Videos auch ruhig auf Deutsch mit englischem Untertitel machen.
Alle Sicherungsvideos findest Du auch hier auf Deutsch: th-cam.com/play/PLthDTDpn-0lD38McBaez3hjNNoXcQQChs.html
“sorry”?? nicht „Entschuldigung“ ? 🤣😂
@@kcegr 😂 hast ja Recht
Es gibt DaV Mitglieder die kein Deutsch sprechen können
Atrocious PBUS lol
PBUS isnt used in Europe. Hard is Easy did a video on belay techniques and discussed the different methods used in EU and US. Check it out I'd say.
It's not PBUS bruh